How does cabbage seedlings tolerate frosts? How to protect plants from frost. Sown seeds should be well watered

Freezing frosts can bring a lot of problems. Unfortunately, I did not understand this common truth right away. I had to learn from my mistakes, and the retribution for them was the loss of some plants and part of the future harvest.

To warn you against such mistakes, I want to discuss this topic, which is relevant for many summer residents. Let's see what danger is fraught with return frosts and how to prevent their detrimental effect on plants.

What are the dangers of return frosts

The harm that they are capable of inflicting on many representatives of heat-loving crops is enormous. However, in the first months of spring, they do not pose any threat, because young plants that have just released their leaves will not have time to freeze. In the worst case, only the edges of the leaves will suffer, but very little time will pass, and they will recover.

In early spring, young plants do not have time to freeze

A much greater danger lies within late return frosts occurring in central Russia up to the 10th of June. They are at the time of flowering. berry crops and fruit trees, the emergence of seedlings and planting seedlings of heat-loving tomatoes, peppers, eggplants in the ground, for which sudden frosts are not only dangerous, but fatal.

The fact is that young leaves, flowers and buds are incredibly sensitive to cold and are not able to resist it. Under influence low temperatures cell sap begins to freeze, which causes membrane ruptures, leads to the death of cells and the plants themselves.

Who can be harmed by spring frosts

Some plants, under the influence of even a short sharp cold snap, may stop growing for a while. Others completely freeze or significantly reduce yields.

How to predict return frosts

Although winters have become distinctly warmer in the last decade, the likelihood of spring return frosts has increased. Of course, it is impossible to predict them 100%. But why not take advantage of Mother Nature's hints and weather forecasts, which, admittedly, have become quite accurate?

You should not blindly trust the forecast: weather forecasters are people like you and me, and technology does not give a 100% guarantee, so they can also be wrong. In addition, the forecast may be correct in relation to your region, but not to yours. garden plot. Plants in your dacha can be damaged by frost, but those in neighboring ones will remain intact. It depends on the different exposure of the slopes and terrain, as well as the presence of afforestation and even water bodies near the site.

To be sure of the correctness of the forecast, it is better to compare data from several sources (television, the Internet, and so on). Nature itself will help to predict frosts, you just need to be a little more careful. So, if in the evening the air temperature approached +1 ... + 2 ° С, - most likely, there will be a slight frost at night, and all heat-loving plants need protection. Moreover, the lowest temperatures are not at night, as many gardeners believe, but at sunrise.

The approach of frost is also indicated by such factors as the cessation of precipitation, cloudless skies and the calming of wind currents. In windy, rainy or just overcast weather, the likelihood of frost is minimal.

Protecting the garden from frost

There are many ways to protect. Some of them do an excellent job. Others, as practice has shown, are quite laborious, doubtful or ineffective. It is impossible to consider everything within the framework of one article, so we will focus on the most popular:

• sprinkling;
• smoke;
• shelter construction;
• fertilizer application.

Sprinkler method

It is used when the temperature drops to 0°C. For sprinkling it is necessary to put on watering hose fine spray (the jet should look like raindrops) and completely spray trees and shrubs that may be affected by frost with water. As the water freezes, heat will be released, saving the plants.

The beds with plants are also shed using a sprayer put on a hose (watering can), or using a system drip irrigation. Watering is carried out in the evening, literally a few hours before the expected frosts. As soon as the temperature drops closer to 0°C, the water will gradually begin to evaporate. The resulting steam will become a reliable protection for the plants: it has a high heat capacity, which means it will not let cold air flows to the ground, and the plants will be able to painlessly endure short-term frosts.

The sprinkling method is considered to be quite effective when freezing around -5°C. True, it will help only in calm weather. Otherwise, your efforts are in vain.

Smoke method

It has been considered one of the most popular for many years, or even decades. Its essence is that bonfires are made on the site and a warm smoke screen is created. She softens negative impact frost on plants.

The fuel can be straw, sawdust, small brushwood, fallen leaves, potato tops and even manure. It is not so important what material will become the basis for saving fires. The main thing is to prevent its rapid combustion: it is necessary that it does not burn, but smoldered, highlighting a large number of smoke. To do this, most of the above materials need to be burned wet.

Light a fire and create a smokescreen

The fire must be arranged in such a way that the smoke spreads throughout the cultivated area. Determine in advance where the breeze is blowing from (with a big wind, the smoking method does not make sense).

One fire about 1.5 m wide and 40-60 cm high is enough to process 1 weave. For its construction, pre-prepared material is distributed in this way: about 20 cm of dry material (leaves, brushwood, straw) is laid from below, and a layer of wet material (up to 40-60 cm) is placed on top, which will be the source of smoke. A layer of earth about 3 cm is evenly distributed on top, leaving a small unfilled area in the center through which smoke will pass.

All of the above is true for small areas. If it became necessary to apply the smoke method over a large area (for example, in large gardens), it is more expedient to use not bonfires, but smoke bombs.

Smoke begins as soon as the thermometer approaches 0 ° C. It should continue until sunrise: it is then that the temperature reaches its peak minus values. Therefore, by sunrise, the area should be covered with a thick layer of smoke.

Despite the popularity and a number of advantages, the main of which are the relative ease of execution and low cost, this method also has disadvantages, due to which it is considered ineffective.

Disadvantages of the method:

• inability to use during strong winds;
• not environmentally friendly: we have already talked about the dangers of burning plant residues and. And you can read about how to usefully dispose of fallen leaves and other garden debris;
• for the method to work, there must still be a slight breeze. It is extremely rare to observe it at night during freezing, when the pressure is high. And there will be no small breeze that could carry warm smoke around the site - and there will be no sense, the smoke will simply go into the sky.

Effectively resist the harmful effects of frost (up to -5 ° C) will help and foliar top dressing phosphorus and potassium.

You can use, for example, the drug "Epin", useful information which you will find in the article. Thanks to top dressing, the accumulation of sugars in the tissues of young plants will increase, the content of free water will decrease and the concentration of cell sap will increase, which means that the plants will be reliably protected from freezing.

Important: it is necessary to make top dressing that helps to increase the frost resistance of plants 10-24 hours before the onset of frost, otherwise there will be no sense from such procedures.

You can choose drugs that increase the frost resistance of plants in our catalog, which combines the offers of large garden online stores. .

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All of these options for saving plants from frost are good if you are constantly on the site or can quickly get to it. But what about those who are rarely in the country? The answer is simple: the following method is ideal for you in the fight against recurrent frosts - shelter arrangement.

Shelter from improvised materials

Provide frost protection simple structures from various covering materials and a frame made of wood, rebar or metal-plastic pipes- that is, something like small greenhouses.

The creation of such shelters will not take much time, and it will not require special knowledge, but the benefits will be enormous. And dismantling them is just as easy as installing them.

The simplest shelter, which can be safely called a greenhouse, is easy to build from several identical pieces of a metal-plastic pipe, bent into an arc and installed in a row at a distance of about 50 cm from each other. From above, an ordinary dense film or any other covering material is stretched: in 1 layer in case of a slight cold snap and in 2 layers if the cold snap promises to be stable. However, the construction of greenhouses has been discussed more than once:

• from the article you will learn how to make a greenhouse from simple wooden gratings and polyethylene film;
• in the article you will find interesting ideas and useful advice for the construction of greenhouses and simple film shelters at no special cost;
• the author shares his personal experience in building a greenhouse from metal-plastic pipes and spunbond in the article;
• you can find out what covering materials, in addition to polyethylene film, can be used to build shelters from articles and.

To protect from frost flowering shrubs-, and others - it is enough to wrap them with burlap, film or agrospan. Flowers that die already at a temperature of about -1 ° C must also be covered with agrospan before the onset of small frosts.

Small plants can be covered with cut-off plastic bottles, paper caps, or plastic buckets (large cups) of sour cream.

An excellent shelter from frost can be and ordinary earth. So that potato shoots do not suffer, they are quite simple. Covering hilling will help protect the leaf mass and reliably protect the uterine tuber, which means that potato frosts will not be terrible. Hilling can be repeated until the threat of return frosts has passed completely.

The exception is when planting potatoes mini- and microtubers, botanical seeds, as well as layering and sprouts. The fact is that at the beginning of the growing season, these plants are still very weak. After hilling, they simply will not be able to break through thick layer soil and die.

Shelters made of improvised materials do an excellent job of their task and reliably protect plants from frost. Remember the main thing: no matter what protective material you use, it must not touch the leaves.

Protection in greenhouses and greenhouses

If frosts are expected in the region of -4 ... -7 ° С, you will have to take extra care of the inhabitants of greenhouses and hotbeds: they also need shelter. You can use old newspapers, burlap or modern covering materials - agrospan, lutrasil, and so on.

In the case when it is impossible to cover the plants (you won’t remove already grown tomatoes and lashes of cucumbers from the supports), it is necessary to insulate the greenhouse itself. To do this, build an additional coating from the same materials. You can fix it both outside and inside. Just do not attach the second coating close to the first, leave a small gap between them.

If plants need to be covered for several days, regardless of where they grow - in open ground or in a greenhouse - it is more advisable to use modern covering materials, which you can learn more about useful article. It is advisable to remove shelters from plants no earlier than 8-9 in the morning.

Cobblestones and plastic bottles, it turns out, can also be effective helpers in this matter. In order to protect plants growing in a greenhouse from recurrent frosts, place cobblestones or dark-colored plastic bottles pre-filled with water near them. Having warmed up during the day, they will give off heat at night, working on the principle of heating batteries.

Probably, there is no ideal way to protect plants from recurrent frosts. Each of the above is good in its own way, each has its drawbacks. Which one you prefer is up to you. But, no matter which method you choose, the plants will in any case be grateful for the care and will give you a generous harvest.

Cauliflower - planting seedlings in the ground

Seedlings are selected early in the morning, the night before it is well watered. Potless seedlings are dipped with roots in a thick solution of clay with mullein and transferred to the planting site. Landing should be carried out on cloudy days or in the afternoon in sunny weather.

Remember: in dry hot weather, seedlings do not take root well, the leaves dry quickly in the sun, especially if the seedlings are potless. Therefore, immediately after landing seedlings need to be shaded using tree branches, burdock leaves, paper. She needs such shading for 2-3 days, until she gets stronger.

Depending on the variety, cauliflower seedlings are planted at different distances from each other, since later varieties are more bushy and require larger area nutrition.

Usually, early-ripening varieties are planted according to the scheme 70 × 25 cm or 60 × 30 cm (60 cm between rows and 30 cm between plants in a row), mid-ripening varieties - 70 × 30 cm, late-ripening - 70 × 40 cm. It is impossible to thicken landings, because in this case you will not get good heads.

You can make adjustments to these schemes if you compact the cauliflower. Seedlings grow quickly, so only radishes, lettuce and dill can be sealers. They are sown in two rows between the rows of cauliflower with a row spacing of 3-5 cm. Of course, the seals must be early varieties, i.e. with a short growing season. Such compaction will not interfere with the development of cauliflower and at the same time will significantly increase the total yield from 1 sq. m. Planting holes are made with a scoop or a planting stake. But if the soil is very heavy, then this should be done only with a scoop so as not to compact the walls.

Seedlings of cauliflower are planted so as not to fill up the apical bud - "heart". The earth around the plant is well compressed, watered again, and then the watered places are sprinkled with dry earth so that a crust does not form. Seedlings of early varieties should not be planted too deep at all, since root growth is accelerated in a well-warmed surface layer of soil.

On the day of planting, it is useful to dust the seedlings with tobacco dust or pyrethrum, as this repels the cabbage fly. Before dusting, seedlings should be lightly sprinkled with water.

Freshly planted cauliflower is frost resistant, the danger of which is great in early spring. Therefore, seedlings should not be planted on days when frosts are expected. Each cauliflower bush planted before mid-May must be closed with a personal protective cap from a transparent film or cover the entire bed with a covering material. In this way, it is possible to bring the ripening time of the heads closer by 7-10 days. Depending on the weather, the covering material is removed 10-15 days after planting the seedlings. After 4-5 days after planting the seedlings, when the plants take root, short-term frosts on the soil down to minus 3-4 ° C do not have a negative effect on the established plants. Adding soot to the soil around each plant will allow the soil to warm up better. Just do not use fresh soot, because it is caustic and can burn plants. Soak it beforehand for about six months in a closed vessel.

At the end of May, you can sow early varieties of cauliflower - it will grow after harvesting early vegetables so that the soil is not empty; harvested at the end of September. In order not to dive cabbage, it is better to rarely sow seeds in nurseries.

Cabbage is one of the most common vegetable crops in Russia. This is not surprising, because this delicious and healthy vegetable used in a wide range of culinary dishes.

Description of culture

Belongs to biennial plants of the cruciferous family. It has a tall, leafy stem.

In the first year, a basal leaf rosette grows, which is widely used in cooking, cosmetology, traditional medicine, and seeds are obtained in the second year.

The leaves are glabrous, usually greyish-green to bluish-green in color. AT lower tier they are quite large, fleshy, with strongly pronounced veins. Due to the fact that they fit snugly against each other, a head is formed around the stem. The part of the stem located in the head is called the stalk.

White cabbage

Cabbage flowers are large, are in a multi-flowered brush and have a yellow color. Seeds are located in pods, which reach a length of 10 cm. The seed is dark brown in color. spherical shape, up to 2 mm in diameter.

What is useful cabbage

The leaves of this vegetable contain carbohydrates, proteins, fiber, polysaccharides, phytoncides, carotene, enzymes, vitamins A, B1, C, P, K, B6, etc. The vegetable is also rich in the content of mineral salts: potassium, phosphorus, calcium and sulfur.

In folk medicine, it is used in the treatment of purulent wounds and ulcers, gastritis, advanced level blood sugar, constipation, etc. With the help of cabbage juice, excess fluid is removed from the body.

cabbage juice

In cosmetology, cosmetic masks and rinses for facial skin are made on the basis of cabbage juice.

Types and varieties of cabbage

There are the following types of cabbage:

• - head;
• - colored;
• - kohlrabi;
• - Savoy;
• - sheet;
• - Beijing;
• - Chinese.

Cabbage

There are the following types:

• - white-headed;
• - redhead;
• - Brussels.

The most popular type is white-headed, it forms a head of light green color. In order to increase the period of use of a fresh vegetable, varieties with different periods maturation. The most common early varieties (ripening - from 70 to 120 days): June, Kazachok, Parel, Golden Hectare, etc. Of the mid-season varieties (ripening up to 140 days), the most popular are: Slava, Sugar Queen, Merchant, Atria, etc.

For long-term storage late ripening cabbage is used. Most often, gardeners grow the following varieties: Aggressor, Amager, Kolobok, Mara, Late Moscow, Snow White, Megaton F1.

Snow White

Leaves red cabbage have a burgundy-purple color. Grow early, mid-season and late-ripening varieties. The most popular are Kalibos, Stone head. Mars, Langedijker, etc.

Brussels sprouts have small sprouts around the stem that can be eaten fresh, stew, preserve, freeze. Common varieties: Franklin F1, Long Island, Funny company etc.

Harvest late varieties cabbage is harvested in late October - early November (depending on the region). In this regard, the question of how the plant tolerates low temperatures is appropriate, and whether cabbage is afraid spring frosts.

Attention! mature plant can calmly endure the cold and is not afraid to freeze even if the temperature drops to -7 ° C.

Cauliflower

Represents annual plant. In cooking, the head is used, which consists of fleshy flower shoots located tightly to each other.

There are the following types:

• colored;
• broccoli;
• romanesco.

To save nutrients in winter, canning or deep freezing is used.

Most popular varieties cauliflower - Snowball, Regent, Express, White Beauty, etc.; broccoli - Lord, Fiesta, Dwarf, Agassi, Marathon, etc.

Kohlrabi is a biennial plant, in the lower part it has a stem that resembles a turnip in appearance. The most popular varieties are early ripening Pikant, Smak, Violetta, etc.

Savoy cabbage has a loose head, with loose leaves. Vienna early, Golden early, Vertu, Melissa, Alaska are popular in gardens.

Leafy cabbage refers to biennial plants. In the first year, a short stem is formed. In the second year, a peduncle appears. Grown for ornamental purposes and for culinary use. It may not freeze even if it is cold outside, reaching -15 ° C.

Beijing cabbage is grown for one year. Forms a head or leaf rosette. Favorite varieties of gardeners - Russian size, Martha, Victoria, Cha-cha, etc.

cabbage cha cha

Chinese cabbage is an early ripening annual plant. Reminds me a bit of Beijing. Grown for heads or leaves. It can be planted in August and in the fall, use the vegetable in the preparation of various dishes. Popular domestic varieties are Swallow and Vesnyanka.

Growing cabbage seedlings

Any kind of cabbage can be grown with or without seedlings. seedling way. Mostly use seedlings.

The main advantage of this method is that you can get more early harvest due to more early landing seeds. Thus, cabbage, which is grown in seedlings, has a certain run, in comparison with that which is grown in seedlings, which is determined by the age of the plants and the phases of its development.

Sowing is carried out on beds in greenhouses or in seedling boxes located indoors. Depending on the type of cabbage, the following planting dates for cabbage are usually followed:

• early - from the beginning to the end of March;
• medium - end of March - end of April;
• late - mid-April.

Seeds of Savoy cabbage are sown from the second half of February (for early varieties) until April, Brussels cabbage - in April, planting time for cauliflower - March-April.

The shoot of cabbage usually appears quickly enough. Plants begin to germinate about 10 days after sowing.

After warm weather is established, young plants need to be planted in the ground, where they will grow in a permanent place. The optimal temperature range for planting is + 10-15 ° С.

Planting seedlings of cabbage

When transplanting seedlings to permanent place the strongest and most developed plants are selected, which makes it possible to further obtain good harvest from the site.

Usually landing is carried out in May (depending on the region), but frosts are possible during this period.

Cabbage and frost

AT different regions the period of a possible onset of a cold snap can last until mid-June.

Whether cabbage seedlings are afraid of frost, what frost cabbage can withstand in spring, and how low temperatures can affect the quality of the crop, depends on which species and variety was chosen for cultivation.

Temperature limits of use

Seedlings of the plant with a seedless method of cultivation die at -3 ° C. If the seedlings were grown in cold greenhouses or were previously hardened before planting in the garden, then they can withstand a short-term drop in temperature to -5 ° C, however, in this case, the total mass and quality of the finished heads are reduced. If on the street the degree drops below -5 ° C, then the seedlings die.

Reasons for freezing cabbage

Consider the causes of the death of cabbage during frosts. Both frost and heat are harmful for the development and life of cabbage seedlings in spring.

If the air temperature drops below 0°C, the water in the plant cells freezes and turns into ice. From the course of physics it is known that if you freeze water, then when it freezes, it increases in volume. The same thing happens in plants. When frozen, the liquid breaks the seedling cells from the inside, and the cabbage dies. Especially dangerous for plants is a sharp thawing after sunrise.

She can't be thawed

The influence of low temperature can aggravate the wrong choice of a place for planting, as well as the condition of seedlings.

Risk areas for cabbage

Do not plant plants on heavy soils or in lowlands. Light loamy areas, well protected from the wind, are suitable for it. In addition to the fact that in the lowlands there is constant stagnation of moisture, the air during frosts is 2-3 ° C lower than in the flat areas.

For optimal plant development, the soil should not be acidic. On such soils, cabbage will not be able to develop normally, it will hurt, and the fertilizers that you will apply will not be able to be completely absorbed by the seedlings. Therefore, if the site has acidic soil, then it must be limed. Perfect for these purposes dolomite flour, which will further enrich the earth with potassium. In the absence of flour, chalk, ash or lime can be used. Only lime can be used exclusively for autumn digging, so as not to damage the seedlings.

If the acidity index is increased, then the soil is treated with lime

Whether cabbage is afraid of spring frosts, and how much seedlings will be affected, also depends on the general condition of the plants. If they are healthy, managed to strengthen and grow well, then in this case the seedlings will recover from stress much faster, and the damage to the crop will be minimal.

To grow healthy seedlings, you need to observe the temperature regime. The optimal range is 12-20°C. More high temperatures lead to the fact that the seedlings begin to lag behind in development, it turns out to be weak and not so viable.

It is also necessary to monitor the water regime. Cabbage is a moisture-loving plant, but watering should be such that there is no stagnation of water in the holes. Excess water, as well as its lack, can lead to disease or death of plants.

Note! The tolerance of low temperatures by seedlings also depends on the type of cabbage.

Resistant seedlings in white cabbage

Is young broccoli afraid of frost, and how many degrees can seedlings of other types of cabbage withstand?

Seedlings of color, Beijing and broccoli withstand short-term frosts down to -2°C.

However, cabbage is exposed to low temperatures not only in spring, but also in autumn, since autumn is the harvest time. White cabbage is usually harvested in late October - early November (depending on the region).

For adult plants, the lower allowable temperature limit, compared to young plants, is slightly receded. For example, White cabbage can withstand cold down to -7 ° C, color - up to -5 ° C. Heads of cabbage are even recommended to be removed from the site after frosts begin. After freezing, cabbage leaves lose their bitterness, and the vegetable becomes sweetish in taste.

cabbage becomes sweet

Frost protection methods

In order not to worry about whether cabbage seedlings are afraid of spring frosts or not, and how not to freeze young plants, it is best to cover the seedlings after planting. To do this, a greenhouse is installed above them. The film can be opened during the day so that the plants are not hot, and closed at night. It is also possible to protect landings with cropped plastic bottles with which each seedling is covered. Seedling protection should be mandatory if early planting of plants on the ridges is planned.

In order for the seedlings not to be damaged by exposure to low temperatures, it is necessary that its leaves do not touch the covering material.

Attention! Low level protection of young plants from spring frosts can lead to the death of the plantation.

With the threat of a cold snap, you can cover the seedlings with old newspapers, buckets, plastic bags, boxes, etc.

If a severe frost is expected, then irrigation of plants can be used. It is usually produced at night a few hours before the onset of low temperatures. In this case, water evaporates from the ground in frost, the temperature rises slightly, and cold air does not fall to the soil surface.

Mulching or planting seedlings on warm ridges will also help to protect plants well.

If your plants were not protected, then you can help the cabbage to endure frosts in the following ways:

• Early in the morning, you need to spray the damaged leaves with cold (not warm) water and shade them so that the plants thaw more slowly. Such thawing will slightly mitigate the effects of frost exposure.
• The use of special antidepressants, chemicals that are sprayed on damaged plants, has proven itself well.

Also to increase the tolerance of seedlings low temperatures Plants need to be hardened off first.

Seedling hardening

A measure of prevention is the hardening of young plants. During the hardening process, seedlings are gradually accustomed to life at lower temperatures. Hardened plants tolerate frost much better than those that grew constantly at elevated temperatures. It is hardened seedlings that can withstand frost down to -3 ° C, while non-hardened seedlings die at this temperature.

Hardening seedlings with ventilation

For hardening, about half a month before planting on the ridges, boxes with seedlings during the day warm weather begin to take out into the street, gradually increasing the time of her stay in the fresh air. Daytime air temperature should fluctuate within + 12-15 ° C, and at night - should not be higher than + 8 ° C.

2-3 days before planting, seedling boxes can not be brought into the house. But this is done only when frost is not expected on the street.

Comparison of frost tolerance

Currently, gardeners, in addition to cabbage, grow a number of frost-resistant vegetables. For example, seedlings onion do not die at frosts down to -3°С, onions - at -7°С, celery - -4°С, parsley - -8°С, etc.

Parsley

For seedlings of zucchini, a temperature of + 0.5 ° C is fatal, for cucumbers - -1 ° C, peppers die at 0 ° C, and tomatoes - at 1.5 ° C. Taking into account the fact that cabbage seedlings do not die at -5 ° C, and adult plants tolerate a temperature drop to -7 ° C, we can say that in terms of frost resistance it is among the vegetable leaders.

Thus, in order to obtain a good harvest, it is necessary to grow seedlings correctly and in spring time protect plants from exposure to low temperatures. Then on the table there will be delicious and healthy cabbage grown on their own plot.

Grow a good crop cauliflower not difficult. Thus, you will provide yourself with a supply of the entire complex of vitamins and mineral salts for the whole winter.

Hello friends and guests of the block!

1. Cauliflower is a vegetable rich in vitamins and mineral salts, an easily digestible product.

Cauliflower has always been considered a delicacy. It is used in diet food, many tasty and nutritious dishes are prepared from it. The part of the plant used for food is the head, formed from fleshy peduncles fused together. This culture can bear fruit under film shelters from May to October.

2. Cauliflower is very demanding on soil fertility and moisture, temperature conditions.

When cultivating cauliflower, one must take into account that the growing conditions depend on the timing of cultivation. Cabbage intended for early harvest is best grown in greenhouses. When disembarking at open ground you need to choose warm, sunny places. One of the prerequisites for a good harvest is high humidity air. In the shade, cauliflower grows densely leafy, and the heads are small and inconspicuous. This crop grows best on humus-rich loamy and sandy soils. With poor soil - do not skimp on top dressing. Almost any culture can serve as a precursor for cauliflower. It’s just not advisable to plant it after the representatives cruciferous family. cauliflower in some areas they are grown in the same places for several years, and at the same time they receive excellent harvests, but under conditions middle lane. And even more so in the northern regions it is better not to take risks and alternate crops in one place.

3. Sow cauliflower in several stages.

If the spring turned out to be early and warm, and the soil warmed up well, you can plant cauliflower in the ground as early as late March or early April. Only in this case it is necessary to make a temporary film shelter. And in order to guarantee good first harvest, use a greenhouse or greenhouse. The time from planting the seedlings to the maturation of the heads will be 50-55 days, so cauliflower will not interfere with the planting and growth of the main greenhouse guests - tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers.

matures cauliflower not at the same time. In the greenhouse, harvesting lasts 1-2 weeks, in the beds - 3-4 weeks, and in the fall - the whole month. Therefore, if you want to feast on tender, tasty inflorescences all summer long, sow it at intervals of 3-4 weeks. The deadline for possible sowing varies from 10 to 20 July for different local climatic conditions. Cauliflower is an excellent stubble crop. It can be safely planted after harvesting early vegetables so that the soil is not empty.

4. It is very important to choose the right varieties of cabbage.

Varieties with a short growing season are suitable for growing in protected ground. But it must be taken into account that even in greenhouses small, non-marketable heads can turn out under unfavorable conditions. weather conditions. The guarantee of a good harvest is a friendly spring, with an abundance sunny days. The most common (and most reliable) are medium-early varieties that are sown in May and bear fruit in July-August. Care should be taken with late varieties, with long period growing season - there is always a risk that in our climatic conditions they won't mature.

5. Guaranteed good harvest - good seedling

A sign of healthy seedlings is strong bushes, with dark green leaves. In order not to delay the growth of plants, seedlings are planted together with a clod of earth, and best of all right in peat pots. Full-fledged heads will not grow from underdeveloped seedlings suffering from a lack of nutrients, as well as from overgrown.

You can sow cauliflower in a greenhouse as early as the end of February - either in pots or immediately in rows in the garden. It is not superfluous to mulch planting cabbage with a mixture of peat and sand, this will greatly facilitate the germination of seedlings. Seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place after 7-8 weeks.

By following these simple recommendations, you will grow a good crop of cauliflower.

6. Seals when growing cauliflower can only be radishes and green crops because it grows quickly.

Radishes between rows are sown with a row spacing of 3-5 cm in two rows. At the same time, the radish should be early, with a short growing season.

7. Depending on the variety, a cauliflower planting scheme is adopted.

Cauliflower under glass and film can be planted at a distance of 30 × 40 cm or 40 × 40 cm. For early varieties in the open field, it is better to adhere to the scheme of 40 × 40 cm or 50 × 40 cm. Medium-early varieties are recommended to be planted at a distance of 50 × 50 cm. Late varieties are more bushy and they require more "living space" - 60 × 60 cm. When planting seedlings of early varieties, it should not be buried too deep. It is desirable that the roots of the seedling were in a more sun-warmed, near-surface layer. This will greatly speed up the growth of the plant in early spring. After planting the plants, after two weeks they must be spudded.

8. Since cauliflower is afraid of frost, build a "protective hut" for it.

A zealous owner will surely cover each cabbage bush planted until mid-May with a special cap or covering material. Also, in early spring, when the danger of frost is especially high, you can cover the bed with seedlings with perforated film (300 holes per 1 sq. M), it is pulled over frames 10-12 cm high so that the film creates a suitable microclimate and at the same time did not take plants. Using this method, you can get a cauliflower harvest 6-8 days earlier. The film is removed 2-3 weeks after transplanting, depending on the weather).

9. Cauliflower responds well to fertilizers, both mineral and organic.

Therefore, it is recommended to grow it on soils that are well fertilized. In addition, cauliflower should be given 3-5 top dressings (5 g of Nitrogen per square meter), first three weeks after planting the seedlings. You can also feed the mullein. Microelements are also useful for cauliflower - molybdenum and boron are especially important.

Cauliflower prefers soil with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction (pH 6.8-7.2). On soils with an acidic reaction, it is necessary to carry out liming in the spring.

10. To obtain a guaranteed harvest, it is necessary regular care behind the plants.

Cauliflower drought tolerant and responsive to wet soil. During the period of tying the heads, a three-four-day thirst can ruin the crop! During the growing season, it is necessary to arrange “general watering” 4-5 times: up to two buckets of water per square meter. m. In this case, the drying of the soil should not be allowed, the plants should be watered regularly. Excellent results gives soil mulching with organic materials while retaining moisture, the soil remains loose, after rains a hard crust does not form on it. If for some reason you do not mulch the soil, then you need to systematically weed and loosen the soil.

11. It is important not to miss harvest time!

The heads are cut off, preventing the separation of the inflorescences. In the heat, they quickly overripe, darken and separate. Although the new varieties are more sun tolerant, it's best to play it safe and shade the heads with broken or tented leaves. Cauliflower late varieties are harvested before frost. Unripe plants can be transferred to growing in a greenhouse and watered abundantly. You can leave the cabbage in the garden, having built a film shelter, as in spring.

See cauliflower recipes

By following these simple recommendations, you are guaranteed to grow a good crop of cauliflower and provide yourself with a supply of vitamins and mineral salts for the whole winter.

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What tricks do you use when growing cauliflower (after all, every gardener has his own secrets). Write your review in the discussions at the bottom of the page.

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What does cabbage seedlings usually suffer from? How can you deal with diseases and pests of cabbage seedlings? How to save the affected seedlings of cabbage?

It is almost impossible to grow cabbage seedlings and not face a number of problems, diseases and pests. This demanding culture brings gardeners great amount hassle. But, owning complete information about the care and treatment of cabbage seedlings, many difficulties can be avoided and most mistakes can be corrected.

What to do if there is a black leg on cabbage seedlings?

First you need to find out what this "black leg" is. A similar disease is called a fungal infection that affects the rhizomes and stem of the plant. Its main symptom is the blackening of the root neck of the seedlings, the thinning of the stem, and then its complete drying. In addition to black spots, pimply formations or growths can be seen on the root neck of a diseased plant.

Attractive for the black leg, as well as for other fungi, are the following conditions:

• high humidity
• warm environment (soil)
• increased acidity of the earth
• dense plantings of seedlings
• lack of air flow between plants

In other words, in order to avoid the appearance and development of a black leg, it is necessary to carry out the following preventive actions:

• irrigate as needed
• adhere to generally accepted standards for planting seedlings (seed spacing)
• carry out ventilation in the room with seedlings
• check soil pH
• disinfect the soil before planting seedlings in it
• process and harden cabbage seeds before planting

If the black leg has already struck the seedlings, then there are several ways to deal with it:

• try to save a diseased plant by separating the affected part from its healthy part (the cut should be green, not black) and rooting it in the ground
• remove a diseased seedling from a common box along with a clod of earth
• deposit healthy plants in another box, and throw away the affected earth
• treat healthy sprouts in a common box with a solution of manganese, Bordeaux liquid or blue vitriol
• cover by upper layer soil over the beginning of the black leg layer river sand, activated carbon or ash
• acidify the soil with a solution of soda (1 tsp baking soda per 1 tbsp water)
• seedlings transplanted outdoors and infected with black leg can be fertilized with manure or chicken droppings

Why do cabbage seedlings have purple leaves?

Experienced gardeners explain the appearance of cabbage on seedlings purple leaves two states:

• lack of useful trace elements, in particular nitrogen and phosphorus
• stress transferred by the plant (dive, planting in open ground, lack or excess of moisture, low room temperature)

In the first case, seedlings can be helped by banal feeding with the missing substances. It is worth noting that it is necessary to fertilize the plant in moderation.
In the second situation, it is advisable to first find out what caused the stress, and only then take action:

• If the seedlings are cold, then they need to provide comfortable temperature conditions.
• If there are problems with watering, then they need to be solved.
• If the plant suffers from a change of scenery, then you can simply give it time to acclimatize.

Holes and white spots appeared on cabbage seedlings: what to do?

There are a number of diseases that can cause white spots and holes on cabbage seedlings:

• powdery mildew
• Peronosporosis or false powdery mildew
• Lack of nitrogen
• cruciferous flea

Powdery mildew is not considered too serious a disease, especially if it appears on an adult plant. The best prevention disease is the observance of the rules of crop rotation and the fight against weeds. However, this ailment can reduce the crop yield, so it is advisable to treat diseased seedlings with some kind of powdery mildew preparation. Most often, Fitosporin is used for these purposes (it is used no more than once every 2-3 weeks).

Peronosporosis, like powdery mildew, is dangerous only for young plants. You can prevent its occurrence by organizing conditions that are comfortable for seedlings, disinfecting the soil and seeds before planting. It is possible to overcome such a disease with the help of industrial means, like Topaz, or with a solution of liquid soap and blue vitriol (1 tablespoon of these funds per 10 liters of water).

The third problem is easily solved by introducing organic or mineral nitrogen fertilizers into the soil.

The cruciferous flea, like no other, is capable of riddling cabbage seedlings in a matter of days. You can prevent the attack of this insect with the help of autumn and spring processing soil before planting seedlings in it, as well as by disinfecting the cabbage seeds themselves. Many gardeners practice planting plants such as coriander, dill, or nightshade around their beds. These crops emit an odor that is unpleasant to insects. If the flea nevertheless penetrated the cabbage planting area, then it needs to be fought with more radical methods: chemicals, ash infusion or copper sulphate solution.

Cabbage seedlings wither: what to do

• Causes of wilting cabbage seedlings can be banal violations of the rules and procedures for planting seedlings. In addition, novice gardeners make a lot of mistakes while caring for the first shoots - either they are flooded with water too much, or, conversely, they are not watered enough. Another common mistake can be temperature regime or the level of humidity in the room where the seedling boxes are.
• Well, the most obvious and common cause for concern with regards to withering seedlings of cabbage is the attack of pests. Each of them must be dealt with accordingly.
• It is also worth mentioning that experienced gardeners Still, they prefer not to grow seedlings of this crop at home, but to sow it immediately in a greenhouse or greenhouse.

Why do cabbage seedlings turn yellow and dry out?

• Yellowing of cabbage seedlings after transplanting them into open ground is a normal and common phenomenon. Moreover, you should not worry if only the lower, cotyledon leaves turn yellow. Such a reaction of a plant to a transplant is considered the norm.
• Also, cabbage seedlings can turn yellow from insufficient or excessive watering.
• Color her leaves in yellow maybe a very scorching sun or, on the contrary, planting in a shady area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden.
• Exit from similar situation additional feeding of seedlings with complex mineral fertilizers can become.

There can be many reasons for this phenomenon:

• Strong penetration of cabbage seeds into the ground when planting
• Insufficient or, conversely, enhanced watering
• Non-compliance with the temperature regime
• Insufficient humidity in the room with seedlings
• Absence fresh air indoors or, on the contrary, strong drafts
• Violation of the procedure for processing seeds or soil before planting
• pest attack

Why do cabbage seedlings curl leaves?

There are a number of factors that provoke the process of leaf curling on cabbage seedlings:

1. Deficiency or excess useful substances into the ground (not fed or overfed the soil)
2. Burn due to spraying seedlings various kinds chemicals as a top dressing or pest control
3. Insufficient or infrequent watering
4. Whitefly butterfly attack
5. The defeat of the leaves of the plant cabbage aphid

Seedlings of cabbage stretched out, outgrown: what to do?

• If, for some reason, cabbage seedlings stretched out even before picking, then it must be immediately planted in individual containers.
• In the process of such a transplant, it is desirable to pinch (pinch) the root of the seedling, while deepening it right up to the cotyledon leaves.
• After picking seedlings, it is advisable to put it in a cool place (from +10 to +13 degrees) for 7-10 days and provide it with decent twelve-hour coverage.
• If the seedlings stretched out after picking, then you can try to cut off the top of it or treat it with special preparations that slow down the growth process.

How to plant overgrown cabbage seedlings?

• Experienced gardeners recommend overgrown seedlings, on the eve of planting them in open ground, do not water for at least a week.
• It is possible to moisten the soil of such seedlings only a couple of hours before transplanting.
• Overgrown seedlings also need to be deepened by cutting off the two lower leaves from it.

• Any plant, especially being in the seedling stage, is afraid of low temperatures. Cabbage is no exception in this case.
• Seedlings of this crop are best planted in open ground after the likelihood of night frosts has been minimized.
• If such a risk is still present, then the plant must be prepared for this in advance.
• Even when planting seeds, they need to be hardened.
• It is also desirable to harden already hatched sprouts.
• Prepared seedlings are able to withstand frosts down to -4-5 degrees.

Frozen seedlings of cabbage: what to do?

• Frozen seedlings of cabbage can be treated with special chemicals.
• This kind of means will help seedlings to cope with the misfortune that happened to her.
• Some gardeners recommend watering such plants. cold water(ideally melted) water.

Aphids on cabbage seedlings: how to fight?

• Cabbage aphid is a small pest that finds its presence in cabbage as white, and then as a brown bloom on the leaves of its seedlings.
• Aphids, like any other pest, are easier to prevent than to overcome.
• Prevention against cabbage aphids is proper fit and caring for cabbage seedlings.
• Many gardeners plant fragrant marigolds, dill, parsley, rosemary, mint, etc. next to the cabbage bed. The smell of flowering of these plants repel many insects and other pests.
• Folk remedies for combating cabbage aphids are an infusion of tomato leaves, tobacco dust or wood ash, as well as a soap solution.
• Of the chemicals, anabasin sulfate has proven itself well, with a solution of which seedlings are processed.

How to treat cabbage seedlings from diseases and pests?

There are dozens or even hundreds on the shelves of specialized stores. chemicals, contributing to getting rid of various cabbage ailments or pests. However, many gardeners still prefer to use only natural preparations or substances that help fight these problems. Thus, you can be sure that the pesticide will not get inside the cabbage head, and the vegetable will be absolutely safe for the human body.

Here are the most popular and proven folk methods for treating cabbage seedlings from diseases and pests:

1. You can fight the cruciferous flea by spraying the seedlings with a solution of vinegar, chicken manure or celandine, pollinated sifted wood ash and tobacco dust or slaked lime.
2. Get rid of cabbage aphids will help: rubbing the leaves soapy water, spraying with a solution of iodine with milk, ash with soap or infusion of tomato, potato tops.
3. Cabbage white is afraid of spraying with a solution of ash and soap, infusions of burdock, onions, garlic or weeds.
4. To fight with cabbage moth can be done by pollinating seedlings with wood ash.
5. You can try to expel the cabbage fly from the garden by watering the cabbage with saline and sprinkling the soil with wood ash, naphthalene with sand, tobacco dust, and also by spraying the seedlings with the extract coniferous plants or infusion of celery stalks.
6. Only methods of prevention can fight the cabbage weevil - this insect is not afraid of any other substances.
7. Mustard powder, infusions of garlic or onions, as well as a solution of ammonia can scare away slugs and snails.
8. For such large pests, it is still possible to equip bait traps - a buried container with fermenting yeast, kvass or juice.

We hope that our article will help protect your cabbage seedlings from numerous problems. Good seedlings and harvest!

Diseases and pests of cabbage seedlings: Video