Homemade powerful stun gun. How to make a powerful stun gun with your own hands at home. Video. Necessary equipment and raw materials

Electroshock devices are one of the best ways for self defense.

Today in free sale can be found for civilians with a power of no more than 3 watts. The Civil Code is harsh, ESU increased power available only to organ workers, and for mere mortals the power is limited to 3 watts.

Definitely, regular 3 watts is clearly not enough for real defense, so you often have to design electroshock devices with your own hands at home.
In fact, the design of a home-made EShU is quite simple; quite powerful circuits can be implemented on a voltage multiplier with minimal cost. The model in question provides an output power of up to 70 watts, which is 13 times more than the power of an industrial stun gun.
The design consists of a high-voltage inverter and a voltage multiplier.

The inverter is made according to a simple multivibrator circuit on two field keys. The choice of field effect transistors is quite large. You can use keys from the IRFZ44, IRFZ48, IRF3205, IRL3705 series and any other similar ones.

The transformer is wound on a W-shaped ferrite core. Such a core can be found in low-power Chinese ETs, as well as in domestic TVs.

All windings from the frame must be removed and new ones wound. The primary winding is wound with a 1 mm wire and consists of 2x5 turns. Next, you need to isolate the winding with 10 layers of transparent adhesive tape or second-layer tape and wind the step-up winding.
This winding is wound with a wire of 0.07-0.1 mm and consists of 800-1000 turns. The winding is wound in layers, each layer consists of evenly wound 80 turns. After winding, we assemble the transformer, it is not necessary to fill it with resin.
The voltage multiplier uses high-voltage capacitors for 5 kV 2200 pF - can be found in domestic TVs. Capacitors can also be taken at 3 kV, but the danger of their breakdown is great.

There are many ways to feel confident in a dark alleyway or on narrow unlit streets, but most of them are either illegal or require a large number time. Not everyone can easily spend 20-30 thousand rubles on a traumatic weapon, and even spend a couple of months on training and obtaining a license. The same applies to martial arts - several years of practicing techniques in the hall does not guarantee protection, and it is impossible to learn how to fight in a month.

One of the best options for protecting yourself and loved ones from intruders is a stun gun. It does not require a license to carry and is not subject to registration with the Ministry of Internal Affairs, it easily fits in a pocket or handbag. Any adult citizen of Russia can buy it, but not everyone can afford it. We will consider one of the many ways how to assemble a simple and powerful stun gun, with diagrams and pictures illustrating the creation process.

Before you start

Homemade stun guns are actually prohibited, since only Russian-made devices that have a license are allowed for use on the territory of the Russian Federation. The mere fact of owning such a product may attract the interest of law enforcement agencies.

What is a stun gun

typical representative electrical device for self-defense consists of five nodes: a battery, a voltage converter, a capacitor, a spark gap and a transformer. The mechanism of operation is as follows: the capacitor with some periodicity discharges the accumulated charge to the transformer, at the output of which a discharge occurs - the same spark. The problem with this design is this transformer, which is created in the factory from special materials according to a secret scheme that cannot be found on the Internet.

Therefore, the circuit will be somewhat different - based on a pair of ignition and combat capacitors. The gist is this:

• By pressing the button, the ignition capacitor acts in the same way as in original scheme- is discharged to the transformer, and that - gives a spark. This spark is an ionized layer of air, with much less resistance than ordinary air.

• at the moment of the appearance of a spark, the combat capacitor is triggered, which beats with all the accumulated power through this channel with virtually no loss.

As a result, with a lower total power of the product and savings on the transformer, the same, if not meaner, stun gun is obtained, while one and a half times less.

How to make the simplest stun gun at home: where to start

Manufacturing begins with the most difficult - the transformer. The reason for this is the complexity of winding it, so if the assembler cannot stand it and chooses an easier way to obtain a self-defense device (purchasing it), then no effort will be spent on manufacturing the remaining parts.

The basis will be a B22 magnetic armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. It is called armored because it is a thing closed on all sides with two conclusions. Looks like an ordinary coil, like the one that is inserted into sewing machine. True, instead of threads, a thin thread is wound into it. varnished wire approximately 0.1 mm in diameter. You can buy it at the radio market or get it from the alarm clock. Before winding, solder leads to the ends of the wire to make the structure stronger and more resistant to breakage.

Winding must be done by hand before free space about 1.5 millimeters will not remain on the coil. For achievement best effect it is better to wind in layers, isolating them from each other with electrical tape or other dielectric. And if you find a PELSHO wire, then no insulation is required at all - it is already in the wire design: just wind it in bulk and drip a little machine oil.

After winding is completed, insulate the turns with a pair of coils of electrical tape and wind 6 turns of thicker wire (0.7-0.9 millimeters) on top. In the middle of the winding, you need to make a tap - just twist and bring it out. It is better to fix the entire wire with cyanoacrylate, and fix the two halves of the coil with each other with cyanoacrylate or electrical tape,

Making an output transformer

This is the most hard part creating a stun gun with your own hands. Since a standard layer transformer cannot be made at home, we will simplify the design - we will make it sectional.

As a basis, we take an ordinary propylene tube with a diameter of 2 centimeters. If you still have these after repairs in the bathroom - it's time to use them, if not - buy them in a plumbing store. The main thing is that it should not be reinforced with metal. We need a piece 5-6 centimeters long.

It is easy to make a sectional frame out of it - fix the workpiece and cut grooves 2 mm wide and 2 mm deep every 2 mm according to its diameter. Be careful - the pipe cannot be cut. After that, cut a groove 3 mm wide along the frame.

It remains only to make the winding. It is made from a wire with a diameter of 2 millimeters, which is wound around all sections within the tube. Solder the lead to the beginning of the wire and fix it with glue to prevent accidental breakage.

As a core for the transformer, a ferrite rod with a diameter of 1 centimeter and a length of approximately 5 centimeters is suitable. Suitable material can be found in line-scan transformers in old Soviet TVs - you just need to fit it to the dimensions and grind it to the shape, in fact, of the rod. This is quite a dusty job, so do not do it at home and without a respirator. If there is no workshop or garage nearby, use ferrite rings by gluing them together, or buy it on the radio market.

The rod must be wrapped with electrical tape and a winding made of 0.8 wire is made on it (we used it for the second winding of the converter transformer. The winding is done along the entire length of the core, not reaching the edges of 5-10 millimeters, and is fixed with electrical tape.

The core winding is wound in the same direction as the winding on the propylene tube - clockwise or counterclockwise.

After that, insulate the core with electrical tape, but watch the diameter - it should fit snugly into the tube. On the side where the tube winding does not have soldered wire, solder the two windings (outer and inner) together. Thus, you will get three conclusions - two ends of the windings and a common point.

If you do not understand the process, you can watch a video on YouTube on how to make a stun gun with your own hands at home.

The final stage is paraffin filling. Anyone will do - the main thing is not to boil it to avoid damage internal elements transformer. Make a small box a little higher than the height of the transformer. Place a transformer in it, bring the wires out and fill the exit points with glue. After that, pour the paraffin into the box and put it on the battery so that the paraffin does not cool down, and all air bubbles come out. We need a margin in height due to the shrinkage of the cooling paraffin. Remove excess with a knife.

Do-it-yourself stun gun from improvised materials: wiring

Now it's time to take a look at circuit diagram stun gun. It looks like this:

• the ignition capacitor is charged through the diode bridge

• through additional diodes, the combat capacitor is charged.

Almost any 330 ohm MOSFET transistors are suitable for the converter, the choice of resistors is also uncritical. 3300 picofarad capacitors are needed to limit the current strength when starting the device, that is, to protect the converter. If you are using power transistors(like IRFZ44+), then such protection is not required. and you can do without installing such capacitors.

There is one feature in the circuit: if the contacts are short-circuited (for example, when touching the skin, not the clothes), the shocker does not work correctly, since the combat capacitor does not have time to charge. If you want to get rid of such a disadvantage, put the second arrester in series with one of the outputs.

The whole circuit (with correct layout elements on the board) fits perfectly on a platform of 4 by 5 centimeters. For food, take 6 nickel cadmium batteries capacity of 300 milliamp-hours half the size AA battery approximately 15 watts. Thus, the entire device is placed in a case the size of a cigarette pack.

For contacts, it is best to take aluminum rivets. They have sufficient electrical conductivity and have a steel core. It gives two advantages at once: the strength of the contacts is significantly increased and there are no problems with soldering aluminum. If they are not, then ordinary steel plates of any shape will do.

Assembly can be done either on an etched textolite board, or by soldering the elements with wires. But for starters, it's better to assemble it on a breadboard in order not to waste time and energy reworking the board in case something goes wrong. High-voltage terminals should be fixed at a short distance (about one and a half centimeters) so that the transformer does not burn out.

After unsoldering, turn on the device. Power must be taken directly from the batteries - do not use power supplies. He does not need to set up and he should work immediately after switching on, the frequency of spark formation is approximately 35 hertz. If it is much less, the reason is most likely in an incorrectly wound transformer or in the wrong transistors.

If everything works correctly, then separate the output contacts by a centimeter and start the device again. A standard shocker has a distance between the contacts of 2.5 centimeters. If everything works correctly, then spread the contacts another centimeter and test the device again. If it works all right, bring them back to the standard 2.5 centimeters. Such a power reserve is needed in order for the device to work in any conditions of humidity and pressure.

If the parts do not smoke or melt, everything is fine, you can solder the elements onto the board and proceed to the last step - creating the case.

Housing for a stun gun at home

Since stamping the case at home is not available, and 3D printers are not available everywhere and not to everyone, we will use a folk remedy - epoxy. Forming such a box is a painstaking process, but such a material has a number of advantages:

• solidity;
• tightness;
• electrical insulation.

To create, you will need epoxy itself, cardboard as a frame, a glue gun and some little things.

It is better to start the process by cutting out the back cover of the case from cardboard with a pre-drawn plan for the location of parts, and then glue it with strips of cardboard around the perimeter using glue gun. The strips should be as long as the width of the shocker (about 3 centimeters) plus a margin for a sticker. Need to glue with outside bases, while carefully making sure that the seam is tight.

After all the strips are glued, place the elements of the circuit inside and evaluate the correctness of their layout. Also determine where you will have the start button and the battery charging connector. If everything suits, then check the correctness of the connection of the elements to each other and the operation of the shocker again. Pay special attention to the tightness of the case - epoxy can penetrate into inconspicuous cracks and leave stubborn stains on any surface.

It's time to start pouring the mold with epoxy. Put the filled form aside and wait 6-8 hours. After this time, it will not become hard, but will be plastic enough to give the body the desired ergonomic shape. After complete curing, process the epoxy with sandpaper and varnish with any varnish, for example, zaponlak.

As a result, you will get a reliable and durable device that is not afraid of bumps, drops and water. How to test it? Take a 0.25 amp fuse and place it between the contacts. After starting the device, the fuse will blow - this shows that the power of the device exceeds 250 milliamps, which is a significant power that can stop even the most zealous and overall intruder.

Specifications homemade stun gun
- voltage on the electrodes - 10 kV,
- pulse frequency up to 10 Hz,
- voltage 9 V. (Krona battery),
- weight no more than 180 gr.

Device design:

The device is a generator of high-voltage voltage pulses connected to the electrodes and placed in a housing made of a dielectric material. The generator consists of 2 series-connected voltage converters (Scheme in Fig. 1). The first converter is an asymmetric multivibrator based on transistors VT1 and VT2. It is turned on with the SB1 button. The load of the transistor VT1 is the primary winding of the transformer T1. The pulses taken from its secondary winding are rectified by the diode bridge VD1-VD4 and charge the battery of storage capacitors C2-C6. The voltage of capacitors C2-C6 when the SB2 button is turned on is the power supply for the second converter on the VS2 trinistre. The charge of the capacitor C7 through the resistor R3 to the switching voltage of the dynistre VS1 leads to turning off the trinis VS2. In this case, the battery of capacitors C2-C6 is discharged to the primary winding of the transformer T2, inducing a high voltage pulse in its secondary winding. Since the discharge is oscillatory in nature, the voltage polarity on the C2-C6 battery changes to the opposite, after which it is restored due to overdischarging through the primary winding of the T2 transformer and the VD5 diode. When the capacitor C7 is recharged again to the switching voltage of the dinistr VD1, the trinistor VS2 is turned on again and the next high voltage pulse is formed at the output electrodes.

All elements are installed on a foil-wrapped fiberglass board, as shown in Fig. 2. Diodes, resistors and capacitors are installed vertically. The case can be any suitable size box made of a material that does not transmit electricity.

The electrodes are made of steel needles up to 2 cm long - for access to the skin through human clothing or animal hair. The distance between the electrodes is at least 25 mm.

The device does not need adjustment and operates flawlessly only with correctly wound transformers. Therefore, follow the rules for their manufacture: transformer T1 is made on a ferrite ring of size K10 * 6 * 3 or K10 * 6 * 5 from ferrite grade 2000NN, its winding I contains 30 turns of PEB-20.15 mm wire, and winding II - 400 turns of PEV-20.1 mm. The voltage on its primary winding should be 60 volts. The T2 transformer is wound on a frame made of ebonite or plexiglass with an inner diameter of 8 mm, an outer diameter of 10 mm, a length of 20 mm, and a cheek diameter of 25 mm. The magnetic circuit is a segment from a ferrite rod for a magnetic antenna 20 mm long and 8 mm in diameter.

Winding I contains 20 turns of PELSh (PEV-2) wire - 0.2 mm, and winding II - 2600 turns of PEV-2 with a diameter of 0.07-0.1 mm. At the beginning, winding II is wound on the frame, through each layer of which a layer of varnished fabric is placed (a breakdown between the turns of the secondary winding may necessarily occur otherwise), and then the primary winding is wound on top of it. The conclusions of the secondary winding are carefully insulated and attached to the electrodes.

Among the means of self-defense, electroshock devices (EShU) are not in last place, especially in terms of the strength of the psychological impact on intruders. However, the cost is also considerable, which encourages radio amateurs to create a stun gun with their own hands of their counterparts.

Without claiming to be super-original and super-new ideas, I propose my development, which can be repeated by anyone who at least once in their life has dealt with transformer winding and installation the simplest devices type of a detector radio receiver with an amplifier on one or two transistors.

The basis of the do-it-yourself stun gun I offer is (Fig. 1a) a transistor generator that converts a constant voltage from a power source such as a galvanic battery "Krona" ("Korund", 6PLF22) or a Nika battery into an increased variable, with a typical multiplier U. Very important element EShU is a self-made transformer (Fig. 1b and Fig. 2). The magnetic circuit for it is a ferrite core with a diameter of 8 and a length of 50 mm. Such a core can be chipped off, for example, from a magnetic antenna of a radio receiver, having previously filed the original around the circumference with the edge of an abrasive stone. But the transformer works more efficiently if the ferrite is from a television TVS. True, in this case, it will be necessary to grind a cylindrical rod of the required dimensions from the base U-shaped magnetic circuit.

The tube-base of the frame for placing transformer windings on it is a 50-mm segment of a plastic case from an already used felt-tip pen, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the above-mentioned ferrite rod. Cheeks measuring 40x40 mm are cut from a 3 mm sheet of vinyl plastic or plexiglass. They are firmly connected to the tube-piece of the felt-tip pen body, having previously lubricated the seats with dichloroethane.

For transformer windings, in this case, copper wire is used in high-strength enamel insulation based on vinyl flex. Primary 1 contains 2x14 turns of PEV2-0.5. In winding 2, they are almost half as many. More precisely, it contains 2x6 turns of the same wire. But high-voltage 3 has 10,000 turns of thinner PEV2-0.15.

As an interlayer insulation, instead of a film of polytetrafluoroethylene (fluoroplast) or polyethylene terephthalate (lavsan), usually recommended for such windings, it is quite acceptable to use 0.035 mm interelectrode capacitor paper. It is advisable to stock up on it in advance: for example, remove from the 4-microfarad LSE1-400 or LSM-400 from the installation old fittings under the lamps daylight, which has long developed, it would seem, its resource, and cut exactly according to the working width of the frame of the future transformer.

After every three "wire" layers in the author's version, a "brush" of the resulting winding was certainly carried out with a wide brush epoxy glue, slightly diluted with acetone (so that the "epoxy" was not very viscous) and condenser-paper insulation was laid in 2 layers. Further, without waiting for curing, winding continued.

To avoid wire breakage due to uneven frame rotation during winding, PEV2-0.15 was passed through the ring. The latter hung on a spring made of steel wire with a diameter of 0.2 - 0.3 mm, somewhat pulling the wire upwards. Between the high-voltage and the rest of the windings, anti-breakdown protection was installed - 6 layers of the same capacitor paper with "epoxy".

The ends of the windings are soldered to the pins passed through the holes in the cheeks. However, conclusions can be drawn without breaking the winding wires, from the same PEV2, folding them 2, 4, 8 times (depending on the diameter of the wire) and twisting them.

The finished transformer is wrapped with one layer of fiberglass and filled with epoxy resin. During installation, the winding leads are pressed against the cheeks and laid with the maximum separation of the ends from each other (especially for the high-voltage winding) in the corresponding compartment of the housing. As a result, even with a 10-minute operation (and a longer continuous use of a protective stun gun with your own hands is not required), breakdowns at the transformer are excluded.

In the original design, the EShU generator was developed with a focus on the use of KT818 transistors. However, replacing them with KT816 with any letter index in the name and installing them on small plate radiators allowed to reduce the weight and dimensions of the entire device. The use of the well-proven KTs106V (KTs106G) diodes with high-voltage ceramic capacitors K15-13 (220 pF, 10 kV) in the voltage multiplier also contributed to this. As a result, it was possible to fit almost everything (without taking into account the safety whiskers and spark gap pins) into a plastic housing like a soap dish measuring 135x58x36 mm. The weight of the protective EShU in the collection is about 300 g.

In the case between the transformer and the multiplier, as well as at the electrodes on the soldering side, partitions of sufficient durable plastic- as a measure to strengthen the structure as a whole and a precaution to avoid a spark jump from one mounting radio element to another, and also as a means of protecting the transformer itself from breakdowns. Brass mustaches are attached from the outer part under the electrodes to reduce the distance between the electrodes, which facilitates the formation of a protective discharge.

A protective spark is also formed without a "mustache": between the tips of the pins - the working bodies, but this increases the risk of breakdown of the transformer, "flashing" the installation inside the case.

In fact, the idea of ​​"mustache" is borrowed from the "proprietary" models and developments. Taken, as they say, into service and such a technical solution as the use of a switch of an indispensable slide type: in order to avoid self-switching, when the electroshock protective equipment rests, say, in the breast or side pocket of its owner.

It is not out of place, I think, to warn radio amateurs about the need for careful handling of the protective ESD, both during the design and adjustment period, and when walking with ready-made stun gun with your own hands. Remember that it is directed against a bully, a criminal. Do not exceed the limits of necessary self-defense!

The idea of ​​​​creating a stun gun increased efficiency came to me after testing several similar devices on myself industrial production. During the tests, it turned out that they deprive the enemy of combat capability only after 4 ... 8 seconds of exposure, and then if you're lucky :) Do I need to say that as a result real application such a shocker will most likely end up in the back seat of the owner.

Info: our legislation allows for mere mortals shockers with an output power of not more than 3 J / s (1 J / s = 1 W), at the same time, devices with a power of up to 10 W are allowed for ATC workers. But even 10 watts is not enough to effectively neutralize the enemy; During experiments on volunteers, the Americans became convinced of the extreme inefficiency of 5 ... 7 W shockers, and decided to create a device that would specifically extinguish the enemy. Such a device was created: "ADVANCED TASER M26" (one of the modifications of "AirTaser" by the company of the same name).

The device was created using EMD technology, in other words, it has an increased output power. Specifically - 26 watts (as they say, "feel the difference" :)). In general, there is another model of this device - M18, with a power of 18 watts. This is due to the fact that the taser is a remote shocker: when the trigger is pressed, two probes are fired from the cartridge inserted into the front of the device, followed by wires. The probes do not fly parallel to each other, but diverge at a slight angle, due to which at the optimal distance (2...3 m) the distance between them becomes 20...30 cm. It is clear that if the probes hit somewhere in the wrong place, it might turn out to be a jerk. Therefore, they released a device of lower power.

At first I made stun guns, similar in efficiency to industrial ones (out of ignorance :). But when I found out the information given above, I decided to develop a REAL stun gun worthy of being called a WEAPON of self-defense. By the way, in addition to stun guns, there are also PARALIZERS, but they don’t rule at all, because they paralyze muscles only in the contact zone, and the effect is not achieved immediately, even with high power.

The output parameters of the MegaShocker are partially borrowed from the "ADVANCED TASER M26". According to available data, the device generates pulses with a repetition rate of 15 ... 18 Hz and an energy of 1.75J at a voltage of 50Kv (because the lower the voltage, the higher the current at the same power). Since the MegaShocker is still a contact device, and also out of concern for own health:), it was decided to make the pulse energy equal to 2 ... 2.4 J, and their repetition frequency - 20 ... 30 Hz. This is at a voltage of 35 ... 50 kilovolts and a maximum distance between the electrodes (at least 10 cm).

The scheme, however, turned out to be somewhat complicated, but nevertheless:

Scheme: A control oscillator (PWM controller) is assembled on the DA1 chip, on transistors Q1, Q2 and transformer T1 - a voltage converter 12v --> 500v. When capacitors C9 and C10 are charged up to 400 ... 500 volts, the threshold node is activated on the elements R13-R14-C11-D4-R15-SCR1, and a current pulse passes through the primary winding T2, the energy of which is calculated by formula 1.2 (E is the energy (J), C - capacitance C9 + C10 (μF), U - voltage (v)). At U \u003d 450v and C \u003d 23 uF, the energy will be 2.33 J. Rezyuk R14 sets the threshold. Capacitor C6 or C7 (depending on the position of switch S3) - limits the power of the device, otherwise it will tend to infinity, and the circuit will burn out.

Capacitor C6 provides maximum power("MAX"), C7 - demo ("DEMO"), which allows you to admire the electric discharge without the risk of burning the device and / or landing the battery :) (when you turn on the "DEMO" mode, you must also turn off S4). The capacitance of C6 and C7 is calculated using formula 1.1, or simply selected (for a power of 45 watts at a frequency of 17 KHz, the capacitance will be about 0.02 microfarads). HL1- Fluorescent Lamp(LB4, LB6 or similar (C8 is selected)) is placed for disguise - so that the device looks like a tricked-out lantern and does not arouse suspicion in different kind police officers and other personalities (otherwise they can be taken away, I had a case - a similar device was taken away). Of course, you can do without a lamp. Elements R5-C2 determine the frequency of the generator, with the specified ratings f = ~ 17KHz. Rizuk R11 limits the output voltage, you can do without it at all - just attach R16-C5 to the case. Diode D1 protects the circuit from damage when connected in reverse polarity. A fuse - for every fire-fighting one (for example: if a thread closes somewhere, the battery can explode (there were cases)).

Now for the assembly of the device: you can assemble the entire device on a breadboard, but it is recommended to solder pulse circuit(C9-C10-R13-R14-C11-D4-R15-SCR1) hinged mounting, while the wires connecting C9-C10, SCR1 and T2 should be as short as possible. The same applies to elements Q1, Q2, C4 and T1. Transformers T1 and T2 should be located away from each other.

T1 is wound on two ring cores folded together from M2000NM1, size K32*20*6. First, a winding of 3 - 320 turns of PEL 0.25 is wound, turn to turn. Windings 1 and 2 contain 8 turns of PEL 0.8 ... 1.0 each. They are wound simultaneously in two wires, the turns should be evenly distributed over the magnetic circuit.

T2 is wound on a core of transformer plates. The plates must be isolated from each other with a film (paper, adhesive tape, etc.). The core cross-sectional area must be at least 450 square millimeters. First, a winding of 1 - 10 ... 15 turns of PEL wire 1.0 ... 1.2 is wound. Winding 2 contains 1000 ... 1500 turns and is wound in layers turn to turn. Each winding layer is insulated with several layers of adhesive tape or a capacitor film (which can be obtained by breaking the smoothing conder from the LDS lamp. Then it's all filled with epoxy. Attention - the primary winding must be carefully isolate it from the secondary!Otherwise, it may turn out to be some kind of muck (the device may fail, or it may shock the owner. switching on, both switches must be rated for a current of at least 10A.

A distinctive feature of the circuit is that everyone can set it up for themselves (in the sense for the enemy :) The output power of the device can be in the range from 30 to 75 watts (doing less than 30, IMHO, is impractical). And more than 75 is just bad, because. with a further increase in power, the efficiency will not be much greater, and the risk will increase significantly. Well, the dimensions of the device will turn out to be a little more.). Output voltage - 35 ... 50 thousand volts. The frequency of discharges should be at least 18 ... 20 per second. The recommended parameters are 40 watts, the energy of a single pulse is 1.75J at a voltage of 40Kv. (if you lower the voltage, you can also reduce the pulse energy, the efficiency will remain the same. 1.75J at 40Kv will be approximately the same as 2.15J at 50Kv. But it is not advisable to make the voltage less than 35 Kv, because then the skin resistance, i.e. current, will interfere in the impulse will be insufficient).

Imagine the situation - you are in an elevator with a robber. How to defend? Get a knife and strike or shoot a pistol (traumatic, firearm)? But this way you can kill the robber and still remain guilty and receive a prison term. It is possible to spray a criminal in the face with a spray can, but there is not enough space in the elevator and you yourself can suffer from gas. This is where the stun gun comes in handy. It is compact, and does not cause harm to health, but only neutralizes the enemy for several minutes, hitting him with a high-voltage discharge.
Today in stores we are offered a huge selection of various stun guns, but all of them do not exceed the power of 3 W (according to the civil code). Tasers of such power are unlikely to be able to help in a real battle. Unlike shockers (up to 50 W), which are used by the police.
Time to buy powerful shocker If we can't, why not make it ourselves?

How to make a stun gun at home

First you need to determine the requirements for the device.

The shocker must have:

• more power
• compactness
• built-in flashlight
• ready indicator
• built-in charger
• small current consumption
• fuse
• anti-snatch system
• other useful things

With all this, the device should have a simple design.

I will describe some of the elements.
A flashlight is a white LED connected to power through a resistor.
Ready indicator - an LED signaling that the power is on.
Fuse - a switch with fixation (turning off the power), prevents a discharge on the electrodes if the "discharge" button is accidentally pressed.

More details need to be told about the anti-snatch system. If in a fight a criminal grabs a shocker from you, he will not be able to use it against you, because. shocker just won't work.
The whole secret is in the reed switch (magnetic switch), which is connected to the circuit of switches (between the power switch and the button that passes the discharge to the electrodes). When the magnet approaches, the contacts of the reed switch close, conducting current through themselves, but if the magnet is moved away, the contacts will disconnect again. A magnet can be attached to the ring, which will need to be constantly worn on the finger.

Scheme of a stun gun

Let's start manufacturing.

High voltage coil

You will need:

• insulating tape;
• scotch;
• silicone;
• transparent package;
• ferrite rod 4 - 5 cm long (from the radio);
• wire.

We wrap the ferrite rod with 3 layers of electrical tape, wrap 5 layers of adhesive tape on top. Next, we wind the primary winding (15 turns) with a wire with a diameter of 0.5 - 1 mm. Winding coil to coil.

From above we wrap 5 layers of electrical tape and 6 scotch tape.

Next, cut the bag into 10 cm wide ribbons. equal to the length coils. We wind the secondary winding (350 - 400 turns) with a wire of 0.4 - 0.7 mm. Important, both windings must be wound in the same direction!
We wind the wire coil to coil, in rows of 40 - 50 turns. After each row, we isolate the bag with cut ribbons in two layers, then we strengthen it at the top with 5 layers of adhesive tape.

We wrap it with 2 layers of electrical tape and 10 layers of adhesive tape. The side holes are filled with silicone.

The transformer is ready. It needs to be tested for breakdowns. To do this, a current was applied to the primary winding from a capacitor of 1500 V, 0.33 μF, while about 7 cm of arc was removed. There were no breakdowns in the winding.

converter transformer

You will need:

• insulating tape;
• scotch;
• the wire;
• ferrite transformer.

We pull out the ferrite transformer from impulse block food located in various techniques. In this case, the transformer is taken from the ATX PSU.

We remove the ferrite frame (if it is difficult to remove, then put the transformer in boiling water). It is possible that during the parsing process, a part of the frame may break off - it does not matter, it can be glued together with superglue. We also remove all regular windings.

Coil winding. The primary winding consists of 12 turns of 0.8 mm wire, tapped from the middle (i.e., 6 turns per shoulder). We isolate it with 3 layers of electrical tape and 5 scotch tape.
In the secondary winding there are 600 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm; After winding, we isolate each row with 4 layers insulating tape. After winding, we insert the ferrite halves and tightly wrap the transformer with tape or electrical tape.

The hardest part is over. Now let's make spark gap, with which the capacitor gives up its charge to the primary winding of the coil.
We will make it from an old fuse. Using a soldering iron, remove the tin from the fuse contacts and remove the wire inside. Next, screw the screws on both sides (they should not touch, otherwise you will get a short circuit). The gap between the screws, you can adjust the frequency of discharges between the electrodes.

Based on materials from the site: radioskot.ru

We will show you how to make a mini stun gun with a power of 800,000 volts at home with your own hands. Let the word mini not bother you, many will think that if it is small, it means weak. But it's not. Our shocker will be more powerful than most store analogs. For example, let's take the popular Bumblebee stun gun, the output power of which is only 300,000 volts, while our own, made by ourselves, will have a power of about 800,000 volts. The sound of his work will be very loud and intimidating, so you can protect yourself not only from hooligans, but also scare stray dogs who are very afraid of this sound. To make a shocker, we need two such converters:

One converter converts 3.6 volts to 400,000 volts, thus two converters will provide us with 800,000 volts of power. We also need two such adapters:

One tact switch, 18650 battery connectors and these 3.6 volt 18650 batteries:

First of all, using hot glue, we glue together two converters and two battery connectors. The next step is to connect the minus from the connector to the minus from the converter, we do the same with the second. Then we glue the connectors and modules together:

After that, solder plus from one connector and plus from one module to one side of the contact button, respectively, plus from the other connector and module to the other side:

Now we disassemble one of our adapters and connect one wire from the first module to one plug and the second wire from the second module to the second plug, do the same with the second adapter. We fasten our design with hot glue, our stun gun is ready, you can test it. Many will ask where to get the parts and what is the cost of manufacturing this stun gun, at the end there will be a video with a detailed explanation of where you can purchase the components, the total cost of which is about $ 10.

Video tutorial on how to make a stun gun with your own hands at home:

Backup video how to make a stun gun at home:

Video about parts for a stun gun own production where to buy parts:

The requirements for such a device are usually rather big - a pocket shocker must be compact and have high power. Having made a stun gun with your own hands, you can also equip it with a built-in flashlight. Thinking about how to make a shocker with your own hands, you can additionally consider the location of the charge readiness indicator in it. It is also desirable that the manufactured device does not consume too much electricity and has a relatively simple design. As a flashlight, it is convenient to use not a lamp, but a white powerful LED that works through a resistor from a common power supply. It is also more convenient to provide a ready indicator with a small LED. It will be useful to have a fuse that will protect against accidentally pressing the discharge button in your pocket.

To make high voltage coil, it is necessary to wrap a ferrite rod with three layers of electrical tape, and wrap at least 5 layers of tape on top. Then the primary winding is made, which consists of 15 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.5 to 1 mm. The coils should lie in close contact with each other. Again, 5 layers of electrical tape and 6 layers of tape are placed on top. Further manufacturing involves the use of polyethylene, for which it is well suited ordinary package. It must be cut into strips corresponding to the coil in width and 10 cm in length. They are necessary for the secondary winding, consisting of 350-400 turns. The winding should also lie tightly and in the same direction as the first. Each wound row is insulated with two layers of tapes cut from the package. The top of the winding after the end is reinforced with adhesive tape in 5 layers.

Additionally, then 2 layers of electrical tape and at least 10 layers of adhesive tape are applied, and the side holes can be filled with silicone for reliability. The finished transformer must be checked for breakdowns; for this, current is supplied from the capacitor to the primary winding. If, after the formation of the arc, no breakdowns appear in the winding, everything is done correctly. In this case, you can start manufacturing the converter transformer. For this, a ferrite transformer is again needed, which can be purchased, or can be removed from power supplies of various equipment that has become unusable. All existing windings from such a used transformer must be removed; to facilitate this procedure, it can be placed in boiling water. The broken parts are connected with superglue, for performance finished product it won't affect.

The primary winding of the converter transformer, without which no do-it-yourself stun gun circuit can do, should consist of 12 turns and is carried out with a 0.8 mm wire. The finished winding must be insulated with 3 layers of electrical tape and 5 layers of adhesive tape. Secondary winding the converter consists of 600 turns, and the wire is required with a diameter of 0.1 mm. The winding is carried out in rows, it is not necessary to make it a turn to turn, but even when doing it in bulk, you need to be as careful as possible. It is most convenient to make a row of 70 turns, each new row from the next is isolated with electrical tape in 4 layers. After the winding is completed, the halves of the ferrite are combined and tightly wrapped with tape or electrical tape. Stages of manufacturing transformers in production homemade stun gun the most complex and labor intensive.

To receive quality product it will be necessary to manufacture a spark gap so that the capacitor can give its charge to the primary winding of the coil. It can be made from an old fuse by removing the tin from its contacts with a soldering iron and carefully removing the wire inside. Instead of a wire, small screws are screwed on both sides, which should not touch in the middle in order to avoid a short circuit. The size of the gap between the screws regulates the frequency of the discharges that form between the electrodes. Installation of parts is carried out in any case of suitable size, for example, from an old shocker. It is advisable to additionally cover the high-voltage part of the circuit with silicone for safety reasons. As bayonets, you can use a fork with cut middle teeth, two small nails or screws.

For greater safety, the transformer can be placed in a suitable size cardboard box and pour completely hot paraffin. The box should have a margin in height, since the paraffin shrinks after cooling, and the excess can be removed with a knife after hardening. Paraffin for this is melted in iron utensils, but do not heat too much, since the whole work can be spoiled from hot paraffin. Experts recommend that the process be carried out in two stages - first, fill it with paraffin, and then expose it to a fan heater or any other heat source for 10-15 minutes. This will get rid of all air bubbles, which could be formed in the first pour. If it is possible to build Vacuum pump, it is better to use instead of paraffin epoxy resin.

In order to supply the finished shocker charger, can be used ready scheme from a flashlight on LEDs, where the switches have several positions. During assembly, the batteries are located at the rear of the case, and the power switch can be used as a fuse. Any model of 4-5 amps or more can be used as a switch. You can remove them from the fixtures that have become unusable. The lock button should also be high current, and have 2-3 positions. For a flashlight, you can connect from 1 to 3 LEDs, this lighting is usually enough for a night road. After all the parts are mounted in the case in their places, you need to check the circuit for serviceability again. Then, to check the power, an ordinary incandescent lamp is placed between the bayonets, which, when correct work should light up from the discharge.

stun gun- the device is very useful, but what is sold in the store will not protect you in real "combat" situations. It is worth recalling once again that according to GOST civilians(mere mortals) may not wear or use electroshock devices that exceed 3 watts of power. This is ridiculous power, which is only enough to scare away dogs and drunken drunks, but not for defense.
The electroshock device must have high efficiency to protect its owner in any situation, but alas, there are none in the store.

So what to do in this case? The answer is simple - to assemble a stun gun with your own hands at home. Some of you may be wondering: is it safe for attackers? It's safe if you know what to collect. In this article, we will offer a shocker that has a titanic output power of 70 watts (130 watts peak) and can lay down any person in a split second.

In the passport data of industrial electroshock devices, you can see the parameter - EFFECTIVE EXPOSURE TIME. This time depends on the power. For regular 3-watt shockers, the exposure time is 3-4 seconds, but of course no one has yet been able to hold it for 3 seconds, because due to the negligible output power, the attacker will quickly figure out what the matter is and attack again. In this situation, your life will be in jeopardy, and if there is nothing to defend yourself, then the consequences can be tragic.

Let's move on to assembling a stun gun with our own hands. But first, I want to say that given material presented on the web for the first time, the content is completely copyrighted, thanks good friend Evgeny for the suggestion to use a push-pull multiplier in the high-voltage part. The series multiplier (often used in shockers) has a rather low efficiency, in which case the power is transferred to the body of the attacker without much loss.

Below are the main parameters of the stun gun:

inverter

used powerful circuit push-pull inverter using N-channel power keys. Such a circuit of a simple multivibrator has a minimum number of components and “eats” a current of up to 11 Amperes, and after replacing the transistors with more powerful ones, the consumption increased to 16 Amperes - a lot for such a compact inverter.

But if there is such a powerful converter, then an appropriate power source is needed. A few weeks ago, two sets of lithium-polymer batteries were ordered on ebay auction, the capacity of which is 1200mA at 12 volts. Later, I managed to dig up some data about these batteries on the net. One of the sources reported that the short circuit current of these batteries is 15 Amperes, but then from more reliable sources it became clear that the short circuit current reaches up to 34 Amperes !!! Wild batteries with a fairly compact size. It should be noted that 34 A is a short-term output short-circuit current.

After choosing a power source, you need to start assembling the stuffing of the stun gun.

The inverter can use FETs IRFZ44, IRFZ46, IRFZ48, and more powerful ones - IRL3705, IRF3205 (namely last option used by me).

The pulse transformer was wound on a core from 50 watts. Such Chinese transformers are designed to power 12-volt halogen lamps and cost pennies (just over $1).

The primary winding is wound immediately with 5 wires of 0.5 mm wire (each). The winding contains 2x5 turns and is wound with two tires at once, each bus consists of 5 turns, as mentioned above.

We wind 5 turns with two tires at once around the entire frame, because we end up with 4 outputs of the primary winding.

We carefully isolate the winding with 10-15 layers of thin transparent adhesive tape and wind the step-up winding.

The secondary winding consists of 800 turns and is wound with 0.1 mm wire. We wind the winding in layers - each layer consists of 70-80 turns. We put the interlayer insulation with the same transparent adhesive tape, for each row there are 3-5 layers of insulation.

The finished transformer can be filled with epoxy, which I never do, since the winding technology has been worked out and so far not a single transformer has pierced.

Multiplier

We continue to collect the stun gun with our own hands. In the high-voltage part, two push-pull multipliers connected in series are used. They use fairly common high-voltage components - 5kV 2200pF capacitors and KTs123 or KTs106 diodes (the former work better due to the increased reverse voltage).

There is nothing special to explain, we collect stupidly according to the scheme. The finished multiplier turns out to be quite compact, it needs to be filled with epoxy after it is mounted in the case.

With such a multiplier, you can remove up to 5-6 cm of a clean arc, but you should not push the output contacts a long distance in order to avoid undesirable consequences.

Enclosure and Mounting

The case was taken from a Chinese LED flashlight, though I had to slightly redo it. The batteries are located at the back of the case.

The power switch is used as a fuse. You can use almost any with a current of 4-5 amperes or more. The switches were taken from Chinese nightlights (the price in the store is less than a dollar).

A button without fixation should also be taken with a large current. In my case, the button has two positions.

The flashlight is assembled on ordinary white LEDs. 3 LEDs from the flashlight are connected in series and connected to the battery through a 10 ohm limiting resistor. Such a flashlight shines brightly enough, it is quite suitable for consecrating a night road.

After the final installation, it is worth once again checking the entire circuit for serviceability.

To fill the voltage multiplier, I used epoxy resin, which is sold in syringes, the weight is only 28-29 Grams, but one package is enough to fill two such multipliers.

The finished stun gun is very compact and wildly powerful.

Due to the increased frequency of sparking, more joules per second are supplied to the human body, so the time of effective exposure to the shocker is microseconds!

Charging is carried out by a transformerless circuit, the design of which we will talk about some other time.

The finished shocker was covered with 3D carbon (the price is about $ 4 per 1 meter).

This is how you can make a stun gun with your own hands, while it will be much better compared to factory options.

For the first time, I have prepared several detailed video tutorials on assembling this stun gun.