DIY wall cabinet project. Do-it-yourself wardrobe from A to Z: step-by-step instructions, ready-made drawings and diagrams, videos and photos

Regardless of the size of the apartment, a place for compact storage huge amount things - clothes, shoes, underwear, books and many other necessary (and not so) - you always need. And such a place is a closet.

The ideal option is a coupe - saving space in the absence of swinging doors, spaciousness, and the design can become an ornament to any room. Mirrors will visually increase the space, MDF inserts will make the interior unique, and soft triplex with a pattern of your choice will turn your furniture into a work of art.

Do-it-yourself sliding wardrobe for the hallway

Which closet to choose? The answer is simple. If you have settled in your home for a long time, if you do not like permutations, if there is a free niche that you definitely want to use, then you need a built-in one. But if the move is still possible and you, due to the peculiarities of your character, have a hard time parting with your loved ones and comfortable things, then your choice is a regular case, made according to your individual project.

Furniture, in the construction and design of which everything is thought out by you and for you, is more than a piece of furniture: it is your creation, your pride, a way to express your individuality.

You can, of course, just go to the store and buy a more or less suitable option for you in terms of color, content, size and price. One of tens of thousands produced on assembly lines furniture factories. You can order the production of an individual project in one of the many salons. And you can do it yourself, putting a piece of your soul into a thing that will be in front of your eyes every day. In one piece of interior, realize oneself as a designer, constructor, sawmiller, assembler. And let someone from your acquaintances not like your creation. This is YOUR work and no one has the right to criticize it.

built-in

Built-in corner wardrobe

Advantages

Mounted in niches and pantries, significantly saves space. Here you can compactly store a variety of things - from jars of jam and tools to everyday items.
Thanks to the design of the sliding doors, the niche disappears, the angularity of the room disappears and a unique interior detail appears in its place.
Between it and the wall there is no empty space - a place where dust constantly collects.
Make the built-in closet easier - less details because the shelves are attached to the walls.
Sockets and switches are easily placed inside it.

disadvantages

The built-in one is absolutely non-transportable, and even if you decide to disassemble it and move it to another room, its alteration to new dimensions will take a lot of time, effort and nerves.
He doesn't have rear wall, and you will need to prepare a niche before installation.

You can make a built-in wardrobe without having a niche with two main walls. "Built-in" it can be partially. Its design may include a sidewall or a roof.

Corpus

Double cabinet wardrobe

Advantages

Can be installed in any convenient location room or hallway.
It can be used as a partition in a room for zoning a room.
Additional wall preparation is not required. On the contrary, the cabinet can cover the flaws of the wall.

disadvantages

"Extra", unused spaces: between the ceiling and the roof, between the side wall and the wall.

Step 2. Choice of design and content.

Internal filling of a large closet

Has the purchase of a sliding wardrobe become a necessity? Then take a few days to decide what exactly you want. Flip through catalogs, go to furniture stores, read articles on the Internet. Mark for yourself interesting solutions and details, and those nuances in construction and design that I would like to avoid.

Step. 3. Choice of material.

Main material

The most common is laminated chipboard(LDSP). This is a very practical item. It is easy to process and affordable. A variety of colors provides ample opportunities for design solutions. Chipboard is made industrial way. Sheets have different sizes and thicknesses. For production, plates with a thickness of 16 mm are used, and for inserts in doors - with a thickness of 10 mm.
3.2 mm thick fibreboard (MDF) is suitable for the back wall;
MDF - beautiful, durable, more environmentally friendly, used for the manufacture of furniture in rooms with high humidity, but much more expensive material;
Wood is the most environmentally friendly of materials, but, unfortunately, is poorly suited for the manufacture of wardrobes.
Due to its fragility, drywall is generally not recommended for making furniture.

Sliding door system.Currently, there are enough big choice various systems:

aluminum;
steel;
suspended;
frameless, etc.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. For example, in aluminum systems comfortable vertical profiles-handles — perfect option for the hallway and nursery. Steel systems are elegant, which is especially important in the bedroom. Suspension systems ideally fit into the interior, where they should be invisible.

Step 4. Decide on the size.

built-in

Width. Measure the width of the niche along the back wall along three horizons: at the ceiling, in the middle of the wall and at the floor. Take the larger value as calculated.
Height. Measure along the wall on the right and left. Take the smaller one for the calculated distance between the shelves.
Depth. Depends on what will be stored here. Will there be a horizontal bar for hangers or just shelves.

Corpus

Approximate scheme of a sliding wardrobe with dimensions

Width. Measure in place. It is necessary to take into account: the curvature of the walls (if you plan to place the cabinet from the wall to the jamb, then due to the slope of the wall, even a centimeter ready product may not fit in the space you have planned), the presence of switches and sockets.
Height. Firstly, even the tallest cabinet should be 15-20 cm lower than the ceiling height, while the need for upper inaccessible shelves should be much more important for you than the ability to wipe dust from its cover without using a stepladder and, secondly, you should not ignore the recommendations of manufacturers of wardrobe systems for the maximum allowable height.
Depth. This parameter entirely depends on what you will store in it. If we are talking only about shelves, then we have: shelf depth + space for the rail and doors (indicated in the system manufacturer's instructions). If a hanger bar is meant, then this is at least 50 cm, since clothes hangers are 45-48 cm long. If this is a vertical hanger holder with a shelf mount, then first decide on it.

Step 5. Calculate the number of sliding doors

The width recommended by manufacturers is from 60 to 90 cm. If the width is less than 50 cm, it will lose its stability, and more than a meter - ease of movement (there is a maximum allowable load on the rollers, at which the manufacturer guarantees their long use).

The rails (top and bottom rail), depending on the manufacturer, are 4 - 5.5 m long. If your cabinet is longer than 3 meters, think about how you will transport the five-meter rail. There is a simple solution - to install a partition from chipboard. You will get two independent niches. Visually, the partition will be imperceptible. It is not recommended to dock the guides, this will quickly disable the wheels.

Step 6. Decide on the height of the doors

For built-in wardrobes

If the height of the niche is up to 280 cm, then the doors can be made in full height. If this size is larger, then two options can be considered.

Mount the upper mezzanine with hinged doors.
Make a roof at a height of 280 cm (but taking into account the fact that the dust there must at least sometimes be wiped off).

The option with a roof is also relevant and subject to availability. stretch ceilings, if a beam was not previously screwed to the ceiling in the right place, especially for mounting built-in furniture.

For case products maximum height= height to ceiling minus 15-20 cm.

Step 7 Sketch

Preliminary sketch of a sliding wardrobe in a manual version

Before proceeding directly to the drawing, sketch out the desired arrangement of things. Measure them if necessary. For example, the dimensions of an ironing board or existing baskets and shelves for shoes.

Make a sketch (as best you can). On the sketch, indicate the dimensions that must be strictly observed. And now mentally put the doors and move them to the right and left in various options, thus checking the accessibility to all parts internal filling.

Step 8. Drawing (Measure seven times - cut one).

Drawing wardrobe with dimensions

It is most convenient to make a preliminary markup directly on the walls of the niche with a pencil. This will make it possible to avoid errors in the dimensions of the parts.

For example:

top shelf\u003d niche width x depth of internal filling (that is, the depth of the cabinet minus the doors);
rack \u003d niche height - top shelf height - material thickness;
shelves on the right = (niche width / 2 - 5-10 cm) x depth;
shelves on the left = (niche width - shelves on the right - material thickness) x depth.

Additional may be needed

Additional details are needed if it is not possible to level the side walls and floor. The rectangle in which compartment doors will be mounted must be perfect. This can be achieved by mounting the box for them completely or partially. At uneven walls gaps between the walls will be visible, and if the floor or ceiling is uneven, the door can generally jam or jump out of the grooves, not to mention spontaneous opening and closing - after all, it will slide down an inclined path under its own weight.

Cabinet wardrobe

Decide:

how will you fix the back wall of fiberboard, if it is located in a niche, from wall to wall, and if there is no answer, then you should consider the option with a built-in wardrobe, where there is no back wall;
whether your cabinet will rest on legs or on the sidewalls;
which sliding door system will you use.

Carefully study the instructions for this type of door, paying special attention to the maximum and minimum allowable dimensions. The durability and reliability of the system itself depends on this.

Drawing directly. Armed with a T-square, pencil and eraser, proceed to the most important part of the work.

Consider the option of relying on the sidewalls.

Main material parts:

roof = cabinet length x depth;
support \u003d (cabinet depth - base material thickness - 20 mm - baseboard width) x base height;
back wall (hardboard) = (cabinet height - plinth - 2-4 mm) x (cabinet length - 2-4 mm);
sidewalls \u003d (cabinet height - material thickness) x depth;
bottom = (roof width - two material thicknesses) x depth;
plinth = cabinet length - two material thicknesses) x 70-100 mm;
rack \u003d (cabinet height - base - 2 material thicknesses) x (cabinet depth - doors);
shelves \u003d (cabinet width - 3 material thicknesses - the width of the adjacent niche) x (cabinet depth - doors).

Here it is worth paying attention to the fact that the doors of the closet are wider than 1/2 of the internal width, there is an “overlap” of the doors, and if you have baskets or drawers planned, they simply will not come out of the closet, that is, the size of the niche with shelves under the baskets should be less than half.

Attention! Do not leave the roof unsupported by the rack, it may sag.

Step. 9. Detailing

Parts table for making cabinet

According to the finished drawing, make a list of parts with their dimensions (specification).

Designate the parts whose ends need to be closed with a decorative edge and, taking into account the thickness of the edge, adjust the dimensions of the parts.

Designate the parts on which you want to make "cuts", for example, under the plinth on the sidewalls.

Step 10 Precut

Approximate cutting of chipboard sheets

On a sheet of paper, to scale, compactly arrange all the details. If as a result you need 1 sheet of material and a little more, then you can adjust the main design by replacing some of the shelves, for example, with grid shelves.

Now that you know for sure inner size, it is necessary, in strict accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations for sliding wardrobe systems, to detail the doors.

Step 11 Tools and Materials

Tools needed for installation:

roulette;
wood saw;
square;
building level;
drill and confirmation drill;
corner clamps;
screwdriver with a set of bits (cross and hex);
mallet;
conductor for perpendicular drilling.

Materials:

the main material provided by the project (chipboard, fiberboard, MDF);
edge (of your choice) and PVA glue;
euro screws 70x5;
plugs;
self-tapping screws (for fastening the back wall and accessories);
furniture corners (plastic or metal) for attaching cabinet parts to the camps;
furniture fittings (rods, holders, grid shelves, pull-out baskets);
crayon or wax for painting chips;
accessories for doors (guides, profiles, rollers, slats, schlegels, latches - everything that is required to assemble this design).

Attention! Carefully read the instructions for assembling the type of door you have chosen. Don't step back from them!

Step 12. Step by step instructions.

Built-in wardrobe

Previously in a niche it is necessary:

clean from old finishing materials;
level surfaces;
paint or wallpaper.

Instruction

Details for the future wardrobe
With the help of furniture plastic corners(or metal, if you think this is more reliable) attach the main vertical racks and transverse shelves to the floor, ceiling and walls in accordance with the preliminary layout and drawing. The parts are connected to each other with euro screws.
We assemble the cabinet section by section and put it against the wall
Check the correct fastening of each part using the building level.
(if necessary) Mount the box or its elements in a niche. Between themselves, additional parts are fastened with euro screws, they are attached to the wall with the help of corners.
We mount sections in a niche and assemble the frame
Attach all accessories (baskets, hangers) to the filling of the cabinet using self-tapping screws;
We fix all the extreme shelves and racks to the walls, floor and ceiling, assemble the boxes and put them in place
Install top and bottom rails.
We fix the guides to the ceiling and to the floor
Measure the resulting door opening.
Mask all visible chips with wax, fix the plugs.
In strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, assemble the doors.
Assembly diagram of the wardrobe door
Hang doors.
Door suspension with bottom support rail

The appearance of a new functional wardrobe, assembled by hand

Cabinet wardrobe.

File the details of the desired size, seal the visible parts with an edge.
Edge application on cabinet parts
Make a markup for fastening the parts together.
Marking of the attachment points is applied to the bottom surface, holes are drilled for the fasteners, after which a plinth of two strips and a central partition are attached
Drill holes: on flat surfaces - through, at the ends - no more than 60 mm deep, 5 mm in diameter.
Assemble the doors in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Assemble the body and its contents.

To fasten open side shelves with rounded corners, confirmations are used, the shelves are attached to the surfaces of the side and rear walls, 2 fasteners for each
Align the cabinet by measuring and comparing its diagonals with a tape measure.
Mounting sliding door closet
Stepping back from the edge of the lid and the bottom of 1 cm, screw the guides.
Guides for door leaf fastened with self-tapping screws with press washers
Hang doors.
To install the door leaf, rollers are inserted into the upper guide, the lower rollers are pressed in and the leaf enters the profile, leaning on the lower guide

Do-it-yourself ready-made cabinet wardrobe

Video: How to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands. Video instruction for installation.

Old apartments of the 50-80s sample in most cases suggest the presence of a variety of niches. You can use this space in different ways. Some create niches with shelves, others break the walls and make redevelopment. We are interested in a practical and visually aesthetic way to transform an unsuccessful apartment layout. To do this, you can make a built-in wardrobe that will accommodate a lot of things and will create comfort. Let's figure out how to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands.

Convenient built-in wardrobe

Each family has a set of things that it is a pity to throw away or because of seasonality they are simply not needed at the moment. Some organize a warehouse of such things on the balcony, where there is already so little space. Take a closer look at the space of your apartment, perhaps there is a place for a built-in wardrobe that will help to cope with this problem.

The built-in closet is good because it closes the entire space from floor to ceiling, making it useful. On the topmost shelves you can put away things that you rarely use.

At right approach external can be given originality and sophistication. This is clearly demonstrated by the photo posted in the article. A built-in wardrobe with your own hands can be made in any style. If you want to imitate a wall, then the cabinet doors need to be decorated with materials identical to the wall.

If the area allows you to separate more space from the wall, then the built-in wardrobe can be turned into a dressing room. In this case, it is necessary to place the shelves around the perimeter and take care of the light.

To organize a built-in wardrobe with your own hands, you will not need a lot of material, since in most cases there are no walls. Their role is played by the walls of the room. The only difficulty may be the installation of the door mechanism. After choosing the type of mechanism, it is necessary to understand the principle of its operation and the assembly steps. Any details for different doors can be found in specialized stores, so it is quite possible to assemble the structure yourself.

Cabinet design and tool preparation

To select a suitable project, you need to decide on a place for a built-in wardrobe. If there is a niche, then the cabinet can be made in the form of an imitation under the wall. When placing a niche in the corridor, it is better to use a mirror surface for the cabinet. The mirror in the corridor will play not only its primary role, but will also contribute to a visual increase in space.

Another interesting idea for decorating the surface of a closet is photo wallpaper. The choice of plot depends on the design of the room. Photo wallpapers with the image of the ocean and the beach will fit perfectly into the Mediterranean style. For classic styles, such as Provence, Renaissance, antique-themed wallpapers are suitable. You can choose wallpaper in the form of a window with any landscape.

To create a project, you need to make measurements of the location of the future cabinet. Draw on a piece of paper a clear layout of the shelves with dimensions.

If the project is selected, you can begin to prepare the material and tools. When making built-in swing cabinet with your own hands or a wardrobe made of chipboard, drywall or wood, you will need the following tools:

jigsaw;
screwdriver;
drill;
stationery knife;
level;
roulette;
marking pencil;
self-tapping screws, euro-screws, nails, corners;
a hammer;
perforator;
PVA glue.

To assemble the built-in cabinet, you must have the skills to use the listed tools, otherwise, there is a possibility of injury or damage to the material.

Necessary furniture fittings

For the full functioning of the built-in wardrobe, you will need some elements of furniture fittings. The shelves are fixed with the help of corners and shelf holders; a hanger rod may be needed.

The most important part of the built-in wardrobe are the doors. Fittings will be different depending on the type of door construction.

In the case of installing sliding doors for installation, you will need:

upper and lower frame for doors;
upper and lower rollers;
silicone rubber seal;
schlegel.

To make built-in home cabinets with your own hands, you will need door hinges and handles. You can get by with such fittings in the case of a classic swing design.

Accordion cabinet doors are less popular due to their fragility. Such doors, as a rule, are made of plastic, less often of wood or glass. The presence of a large number of moving elements makes the doors in the form of an accordion less reliable. To make these doors you will need:

upper and lower guide profiles;
loops different types;
furniture wheels;
pens.

Don't skimp on accessories. The durability of the built-in wardrobe design directly depends on the quality of the assembly elements.

Drywall is a very convenient material for the manufacture of built-in furniture. With it, you can make incredible beautiful elements interior. From positive characteristics drywall, the following can be noted:

availability of material, low price;
environmentally pure material;
easy to use, easy to process;
compatible with almost all types exterior finish: paint, plaster, tile, etc.;
not flammable.

As well as positive traits drywall, there are some disadvantages:

gypsum is a fragile material;
use only for built-in furniture.

Strong impact can damage drywall surface. It is precisely because of the fragility of the drywall material that only stationary built-in furniture is made, which cannot be moved to another place without complete dismantling.

The first stage in the construction of a drywall cabinet will be the construction of a frame using a metal profile or boards. In places of attachment to the walls, use a perforator and dowels. The walls can be uneven, so check the correct installation with plumb and level. After mounting the frame, we sheathe the structure with drywall. In places with a heavy load, a double layer of sheets can be used.

The surface of drywall must be treated with putty. This is done with a reinforcing mesh or tape. Then we glue the perforated corners and putty the entire surface. As finishing use the option that suits you.

On the finished frame install doors. Massive and heavy are not suitable for such a cabinet. suspended structures, so we choose easy option with minimum weight.

Built-in wardrobe made of chipboard

Chipboard - chipboard, a popular type of material for making furniture. Supplied in sheets. The sheet consists of pressed wood shavings. Used to make furniture laminated chipboard. They are covered with a thick film that protects the inner layer from moisture and destruction. Lamination creates a wide variety of patterns and colors.

If you decide to use chipboard, then it will be easier to order necessary details in a specialized organization. There you will not only be cut the sheets to the desired size, but will also process the edges of the plate with braid. It remains only to perform the installation of parts. When cutting yourself, be careful with the dimensions. To process the edges with braid, you can use a regular iron.

Before assembly, make all the necessary holes for fasteners. To fix chipboard sheets, you can use euro screws. Their length can be 5-6 cm, and the width is about 4-5 mm. Holes for euro screws should be 1-2 mm smaller than their diameter, this connection principle will give the most durable fastening of sheets. The cabinet frame does not have to be assembled on site. You can install the design in modules, it will be more convenient.

Chipboard sheets also have weaknesses. Pay attention to them to avoid mistakes.

Cheaper types of chipboard allocate in environment formaldehydes are harmful to health. Choose sheets under the E1 brand, they are more environmentally friendly.
Chipboard sheets are not designed for fine workmanship.
In case of poor-quality installation of the braid, gaps may form. Exposure to moisture can deform the open edge. This is due to the ability of the wood chip layer to absorb water.

Drywall corner cabinet

The principle of construction of drywall is the same for all types of cabinets. Making a built-in corner cabinet with your own hands differs only in the way the design is designed. If you have decided to unusual project radius wardrobe, then it is better to use drywall.

Such a plate is able to create rounded surfaces. In this case, you can consider the corner cabinet in the form of a quarter of a circle. Such designs look original and unusual.

To give the door rounded shape it is necessary to carry out some manipulations with the drywall slab.

From improvised materials, build a fixing base in which a sheet of drywall will dry.
Using a clerical knife, make holes on the surface of the cardboard in a checkerboard pattern 1-2 cm long at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other.
Place the plate on the fixing base.
Wet a towel and lay it on the drywall sheet so that the entire area of the sheet is covered. As it gets wet, the sheet will begin to sag.
Leave the sheet in a bent state until completely dry. Do the same with the second sheet.

This way you get two curved doors for corner wardrobe. Choose the right accessories for them and complete the installation. Do not forget about the surface treatment of the sheets. For a do-it-yourself built-in drywall cabinet, you can use glass doors that are made to order.

Built-in closet

If you are a happy owner of the Soviet "Khrushchev" and have not yet had time to redevelop, then the space can be transformed by building a closet into a niche with your own hands.

Great place for a built-in closet. You don’t have to build side bases, it will be enough to install a frame for attaching guides from above and below, make slats on the sides and space for shelves. The central structure of the system of drawers and shelves will be installed on the floor and held on the sides with fasteners.

Some apartments have very deep niches. They can be converted into dressing rooms. To separate the area of the dressing room most good option there will be sliding doors. Fill the interior space with shelves along three walls. Do not be afraid to make shelves under the ceiling, they will also come in handy. There you can put things that you use very rarely and there is no need to constantly get them.

You can not use the entire space of the niche under the cabinet. Make a partition and decorate half of the niche in the form of shelves for books or flowers. The mirrored door will hide the built-in wardrobe and increase the space of the room. Arranging a built-in wardrobe in the bedroom with your own hands in the niche area can give the impression of a continuation of the wall. Thus, you will get rid of the clutter of objects in the space of the room.

Built-in wardrobe in the hallway

If your hallway is large and spacious, then the built-in wardrobe will fit well into the environment, and will not create the impression of reducing space. In the Soviet "Khrushchev" you can use niches that are typical for the corridors of these apartments.

The principle of arranging a built-in wardrobe in the hallway with your own hands is standard. In the case of a corridor, attention must be paid to the design of the cabinet doors and their practicality. Remember that the door will open several times a day. The door mechanism must be of high quality and durable. For their surface, it is better to choose an easy-to-clean and wear-resistant material. Street dirt can get on the doors from your shoes, frequent cleaning should not cause wear on the surface.

If we talk about the arrangement of shelves, then it should be noted that the closet in the corridor differs in its structure from other types. Arrange drawers at the bottom of the cabinet. It will be convenient to store shoes of other seasons that are not currently needed in them. To store winter clothes in the warm season, you will need a place for hangers. Before creating a cabinet layout, analyze the things that need to be put away in it, then you will understand exactly which shelves you will need.

It is better to make the door of the built-in wardrobe completely mirrored. So you will have the opportunity to show off and look in the mirror before going out.

Most often, homeowners try to maximize the use of the area of their house. That living area, which is located on the uppermost tier, is located directly under the roof. There are inconveniences with the layout of such rooms due to the irregular shape of the walls and the presence of slopes. It is not possible to install purchased cabinets around the perimeter, so you have to look for other ways of arranging.

At the locations of the roof slope, the ceiling has an inclined shape. This place is convenient to use under the built-in wardrobe.

If there are windows, no problem. Make openings for them, as shown in the photo. A do-it-yourself built-in wardrobe will help transform the space into usable area, and the surface of the drawers will become a window sill for windows.

Finally

How to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands without the ability to handle carpentry equipment? Very simple. Order patterns according to the required sizes and start assembling. An exclusive built-in wardrobe on an individual project will not only practical decoration your apartment, but also a source of pride.

If you make a wardrobe with your own hands, then it can rightfully be considered the most functional piece of furniture. It fits easily even on limited area And at the same time, you can put almost all things in it. Such a wardrobe is a real find for small apartments, small hallways. But even in spacious houses there is a place for him where he can become a real decoration of the room. In a word, wardrobe universal furniture, without which in our time it is already difficult to do.

Looking at ready-made wardrobes, it seems that it is quite difficult to make them. In fact, there is nothing complicated in this, you just need to correctly calculate all its parameters.

We make a wardrobe with our own hands

Basically, cabinets are made from laminated chipboard sheets. If you decide to make a cabinet yourself, for cutting sheets according to prepared patterns, it is better to contact a workshop where there are special woodworking machines. Get at home high quality cuts will not work in any way, not only due to lack of experience, but also due to the lack of necessary tools. Also in the workshops, you can make cuts of complex shapes, shelves with rounded corners, cut out patterns, etc., make edge trimming, additives for hinges.

And here arises quite logical question: what then is included in the concept of "do-it-yourself wardrobe", because almost all of its parts must be ordered in the workshop? The fact is that, with rare exceptions, almost all companies that sell wardrobes do not have their own workshops, but order the manufacture of individual parts “on the side”. Their responsibilities include designing furniture at the request of the customer, drawing up cutting and edging schemes for products, purchasing required amount material, delivery and assembly. For this they take payment, which can exceed the cost of the cabinet by 1.5-2 times, or even more. The cost of sawing chipboard sheets and their processing is an insignificant part of the cost of the cabinet as a whole. Thus, by drawing, counting and assembling the cabinet yourself, you will save a lot of money.

It is more profitable to make a wardrobe yourself and on time. When ordering it from a company, you will have to wait about two months, which, you see, is not always convenient. It is quite possible to assemble it on your own in two weeks, including design and calculations. Consider in more detail the sequence of manufacturing a wardrobe.

The first step in the manufacture of a wardrobe is its design. To do this, you can schematically draw a cabinet with the application of all sizes, the designation of internal compartments, lockers and drawers. This “old-fashioned” approach is quite lengthy and inconvenient, especially if you have high technology. Now almost all furniture design firms use special computer programs that allow not only to evaluate the future result, but also to fully calculate the product specification.

One of such programs is "Bazis-Mebelshchik". This is a fairly powerful design tool, containing a number of auxiliary programs. The basis is designed to create both simple and quite complex elements furniture. If interested, you can go to the manufacturer's website and get acquainted with it in more detail. To design a cabinet, it is not necessary to take a full “young fighter course”. A fairly simple and accessible interface allows even beginners to use the program effortlessly. An emulator is needed to install Basis, since it uses hardware protection, but for "confident PC users" this has long ceased to be a problem.

If you have never used Basis, then you can. In our case, this is the video “Basis-Cabinet 7.0 Video clip Designing the cabinet”. Viewing it will visually acquaint you with all the stages of design, as well as the capabilities of the program. It will take a little time (about 30 minutes), but even a beginner can figure out what's what without any problems.

Designing a sliding wardrobe in the Basis-Mebelshchik program takes about 1 hour, taking into account the calculation of the specification of the necessary materials. Manually, this would take much longer and would not rule out possible mistakes when calculating.

The process of creating a virtual cabinet includes the following steps:

choice of wardrobe dimensions;
dimensions of the bottom, plinth and lid of the cabinet;
choice of material and dimensions of the rear wall and its stiffeners. The back wall is made of fiberboard, and the stiffeners are made of chipboard;
breakdown of the internal space of the cabinet into horizontal and vertical sections;
filling the received sections with boxes (if necessary);
entering the main parameters of the doors;
adding a mezzanine and open side sections (if necessary);
designation of the ends that need to be edged;
selection and arrangement of accessories;
printout of drawings of individual cabinet components and specifications.

If desired, you can also print a three-dimensional image of the finished cabinet, according to which it will then be easy to assemble it.

The next step is the manufacture of cabinet parts in the workshop. So that in the workshop you don’t have to explain “on your fingers” what you need, it’s enough to print out the specification of all elements and their drawings in advance and give them to the craftsmen. In addition, Basis can also make a cutting chart, for which a separate fee is required in the workshop.

To do this, you just need to use the Basis-Nesting module by setting the dimensions of the original chipboard sheets. This map is a pattern according to which structural elements will be cut out of a sheet of a certain size, taking into account indents, thickness of cutting materials and other subtleties. True, some nuances still need to be agreed with the furniture makers, so it is better to entrust the cutting map to them - they are better versed in these issues, and when cutting they will take into account the tools they have.

As an example, consider the manufacture of a wardrobe with a height of 2.5 m, a width of 1.2 m, a depth of 0.4 m. According to calculations, it turns out that for its manufacture you will need two sheets of chipboard with an area of 4.08 m2 and a sheet of fiberboard with an area of 4, 67 m2.

What should I pay attention to when making a wardrobe?

When choosing a color, you should not focus on names like "Milanese Walnut", etc. Each manufacturer has his own understanding of what this very nut looks like, and there are no uniform standards. So it's best to go and choose the color of the material yourself, guided by its appearance, and not by its name.

After all the elements of the cabinet are cut out in the furniture workshop, you may be offered to take with you the scraps of sheets from which they were cut, because you bought the whole sheet, which means your trimmings. If you do not need them, the furniture makers will keep them for you, giving you a small discount. This solution seems to many more attractive. It seems that they got rid of garbage, and also saved money. But it is not so. During the assembly process, some elements may be damaged, and you can make a replacement from scraps. If you order a separate part in the workshop not from your own material, you can overpay up to 25% of the cost.

One more nuance. You need to pay not for the manufacture of each individual part, but for cutting the sheet. At first glance it seems that this is the same thing, but in reality it is not quite so. Therefore, when calculating the amount of source material, it is necessary to clearly determine the number of sheets and already give them for sawing. Programs such as Basis will help determine the issue of material consumption quickly and accurately. Manual calculations often give inaccurate results, especially if there are a lot of details.

A separate expense item is the manufacture of curly elements, for example, side shelves with a rounded corner or skirting boards. The cost of such cuts is higher than cuts of a simple rectangular shape, which must be taken into account and agreed in advance so that there are no misunderstandings when paying later.

Let's summarize. The cost of manufacturing parts in the workshop consists of:

drawing up a cutting map (it is still better to entrust this to the masters);
cutting sheets of laminated chipboard and HDPE;
production of plinth;
production of rounded elements.

After all the details are cut out, you can start edging. Usually this is also done in the furniture shop where the parts are made, as this requires special equipment. For edging, PVC edges of different thicknesses are used depending on the position of the ribs. Hidden ribs (lower or rear) are edged with thinner edges, the thickness of which is 0.4 mm. Thicker edges made of 2 mm PVC are used for visible ribs. The edges of adjacent parts that are joined end-to-end do not need to be edged.

To make it clearer, here are a few examples:

ribs inner shelf edged only on the front side using a 2 mm edge. The remaining ribs adjoin end-to-end to the inner walls of the cabinet;
the ribs of the cabinet cover are external on all sides and therefore must be edged on four sides, while the rear invisible side has an edge 0.4 mm thick, and the rest - 2 mm thick;
drawer front ribs on all four sides have a 2 mm thick edge.

These subtleties seem confusing at first glance, but using Basis, you don’t have to worry and don’t think too much, because the program selects and arranges edges of the desired thickness and in the right places on its own.

Like manufacturing, edging of parts with complex geometric shapes is paid separately at a higher price.

Thus, the cost of edging, including materials, consists of the following items:

edging with PVC edges 0.4 mm thick;
edging with PVC edges 2 mm thick;
edging of rounded parts.

In terms of time, it takes up to 5 working days for the manufacture of cabinet parts and their edging, but for an additional fee “for urgency” all these operations can be completed in one day. Some workshops also include home delivery of products in the cost of work.

Fittings for the cabinet is selected depending on the number of drawers and compartments. In our example, the cabinet has 3 drawers and a main compartment. Drawers need rails and handles. The main compartment has one nuance. Since, due to limited space, the depth of the cabinet is small (only 38 cm), the hanger for the coat hanger will be non-standard - end. Such a hanger will make it possible to hang clothes parallel to the back wall and save space. The length of the end hanger is 30 cm.

Euro screws (confirmations) with plugs will be used as fasteners. It is better to buy more of them just in case.

So, from the accessories you will need:

end hanger;
drawer guides;
drawer handles;
euro screws;
plugs for euroscrews.

Do-it-yourself wardrobe assembly

When everything is prepared and purchased, you can start assembling the cabinet. Here again I would like to say a few flattering words to Basis. This program not only designs the cabinet structure, decomposes it into components and calculates the consumption of materials, but also marks on the drawings the screw fixing points along with their dimensions and distances between them. So when assembling, you don’t have to think about where it is better to connect certain elements. Ideally, all holes should be made on a CNC woodworking machine under the guidance of the Basis-CNC module, but this is quite an expensive pleasure, and sometimes it is not easy to find a CNC machine. Holes are quite realistic to make manually.

To do this, you will need a pencil, a square, an awl, a drill with a special drill for euro screws, a screwdriver with a hex bit and, of course, printed drawings of the cabinet with holes for fasteners.

First, the bottom and walls of the cabinet are installed in the place where it is planned to put the cabinet, in order to once again check whether the overall dimensions are correctly selected.

Marking of the attachment points is applied to the bottom surface, holes are drilled for the fasteners, after which a plinth of two planks and a central partition are attached. The side walls are attached to the bottom with confirmations.

The edges of the side walls and the plinth must be protected with a special waterproof profile that prevents water from entering the PVC surface, as well as dust from under the cabinet. The edges themselves, which rest on the floor, must be made of PVC with a thickness of 2 mm.

When mounting the cabinet cover, it may be difficult to secure it. The fact is that the height of the cabinet is usually taken as high as possible, and it is rather difficult to tighten the fasteners. In such cases, you must first use pliers, and then the end "ratchet". It is better that the gap between the cabinet lid and the ceiling is at least 7 cm.

Installation of side shelves

For fixing open side shelves with rounded corners, confirmations are used - 4 for each shelf. The shelves are attached to the surfaces of the side and rear walls with 2 fasteners for each. The top and bottom shelves are slightly larger than the rest, which must be taken into account when installing.

The installation sequence is as follows: first, the top shelf is attached, then all the others from top to bottom.

The lowest shelf is located flush with the bottom of the cabinet, so confirmations are not suitable for fixing it - they simply cannot be screwed in. In this case, dowels are used instead.

Sliding wardrobe doors are a separate mechanism, the choice and assembly of which must be approached with all responsibility. It's the closet doors that define it appearance, and their serviceability and ease of use make its operation as comfortable as possible. First you need to decide on a profile. It depends on its quality how long the doors will last and whether they will jam, so in this case there is no need to save. The profile is sold unassembled, and in order to fold it, you must clearly follow the manufacturer's instructions, which can be found on the company's website or received upon purchase. The instructions contain all the necessary assembly schemes, as well as calculation formulas for determining the length of the guides and the parameters of the door leaf.

The door profile consists of the following elements:

bottom and top guides, which are attached respectively to the bottom and to the lid of the cabinet. They are a kind of rails along which the doors will move when opening and closing;
the lower frame of the door leaf is the basis to which the lower rollers are attached;
side frames are of two types: C-profile and H-profile. These frames are used as handles for moving the door leaf, and are also the basis for attaching the upper rollers;
the upper frame makes the profile design more rigid;
the middle frame is used if the door leaf consists of several parts for their interconnection;
upper and lower rollers provide easy movement of the door leaf along the rails. The lower rollers are made of plastic, the upper rollers are rubberized. Usually, two rollers are installed on one door at the top and bottom;
a stopper is a small metal insert that fixes the canvas in the closed position. The stopper is mounted on the bottom rail;
Schlegel is a strip of pile that is attached to the end of the canvas. Schlegel softens the impact of the leaf when the door is suddenly closed, protecting it from damage, and also makes the structure airtight;
sealant is used to attach the mirror to the canvas. The seal is made of silicone.

To choose a profile for sure, it is better to first assemble the entire cabinet completely, and then measure the parameters of the resulting opening.

Profiles are usually selected with some margin in size, so that if necessary, the excess can be cut off. Standard sizes only at the side frames - 2.7 m, the rest of the elements are ordered based on the received dimensions.

Various materials can be used to fill the profile, but most often the choice stops on glass or a mirror. The use of a mirror canvas can further visually increase the space of the room, in addition, it can be decorated with various patterns, decorative elements, etc.

Mirror installation

The mirror is selected on a film base with a thickness of 4 mm. Usually, when ordering a mirror, the required size is immediately indicated (preferably with a small margin). It should be borne in mind that mirrors are quite fragile and heavy, so when transporting them, you need to be careful, carry them together and one at a time.

To install the mirror in the profile, a silicone sealant is used, which is put on its edge. The sealant must be applied evenly along the entire length of the edges without wrinkles.

Next, the mirror is inserted into the profile frame. In order for it to take the desired position, you can use a rubber mallet, tapping it on the profile until the mirror fully enters the profile and the seal is hidden inside the structure. It is important to keep the frame perpendicular to the mirror, otherwise the mirror may be crooked. The mirror installation sequence is as follows: the mirror is placed on horizontal surface, the upper and lower frames of the profile are put on it, the excess sealant is cut off with a knife. Then the side frames are attached by turning the mirror vertically and resting it on the edge.

Sliding cabinet door installation

Further, the profile frames, after they are dressed on the door leaf, are fastened together with self-tapping screws, which should be included in the profile kit. Holes are pre-drilled under the screws in two passes: first under the thread, then with a wider drill only in the front bar to hide the head.

The lower profile fasteners are also fasteners for the lower rollers. The screws for fastening the rollers are made adjusting so that, if necessary, it is possible to change the height of the rollers.

Holes for fasteners at the ends of the side frames do not have to be neat and even - they will still be hidden under the shlegel - a strip of pile that is glued on both sides. When using the C-profile, it even has specially cut out places for the Schlegel, so it is not difficult to glue it.

Guides for the door leaf are fastened with self-tapping screws with press washers. Holes are pre-drilled for the screws. First, the upper guide is installed flush with the side frames of the profile. Focusing on it, with the help of the building level, the lower guide is set. The guides must be strictly one under the other to avoid tilting or skewing the door leaf. Special stoppers are inserted along the edges of the lower rail to fix the door in the closed position.

To install the door leaf, rollers are inserted into the upper guide, the lower rollers are pressed in and the leaf enters the profile, leaning on the lower guide. Be sure to check the verticality of the canvas, the tightness of the ends to the sidewalls in the closed position.

If the door is mounted at a slight angle, its position can be adjusted using the adjusting screws on the lower rollers. The bottom rollers also adjust the height of the doors by raising or lowering them. If during use the upper rollers pop out of the guide, the doors must be raised. After installing the blade, you need to adjust the stoppers on the lower guide.

The frame of the cabinet is ready, and now it's time to start making the inner drawers. Drawers, like the cabinet itself, are made from blanks cut from chipboard. So that fasteners are not visible on their surface, a false facade will be used, connected from the inside to the real facade. To make a box, you will need a front, a false front, a bottom, sides, a back wall, as well as guides and a handle. The bottom of the facade will be inset, bounded on all sides by walls and a false facade.

When assembling the box, it is very important to control the position of its individual parts. The angles between adjacent walls and the walls and bottom must be straight. To achieve this, you can use a pre-prepared template that controls the size of the angles. In principle, you can do without it, but then the angles must be constantly measured.

The guides, consisting of two parts, are attached with one part to the drawer, and the other to the side of the cabinet. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that they are located horizontally and parallel to each other. Drawers should be recessed into the cabinet so that their handles do not touch the door leaf from the inside. The width of the drawers is chosen smaller than the width of the door, so that they can be pulled out.

That's all, we made a wardrobe with our own hands.

Creating an interior for your own home is a difficult and very exciting job. Here you can not do without certain skills and knowledge. The assembly of finished furniture is not a creative process, but rather a mechanical one, but it also requires a certain skill. Another thing is if the owner of the home decided to create a furniture attribute, for example, a wardrobe with my own hands in the hallway. To do this, it is desirable to remember at least a geometry course high school, drawing lessons and learn the elementary basics of design.

If you approach the process of hand-made wardrobe manufacturing correctly, with full responsibility, armed not only with a tape measure and a pencil, but also with a computer program for designing interior decoration apartments, you can create an exclusive version of the built-in wardrobe.

Do-it-yourself wardrobe - photo

Calculations and cutting material

In any business, steps are important. It is necessary to calculate your strength and draw up a clear plan of what you can do yourself and what you will have to order in workshops.

A list of works, or stages, that are not laborious, do not require specialization and certain skills that you can do yourself. For example, measure the part of the room where you plan to install a wardrobe.

Measurements of the area for mounting the built-in cabinet must be carried out from various points on the surface. It is advisable to have paper and a pencil with you, and immediately display the results of measurements.

Do-it-yourself wardrobe drawings and description

The length of the opening is measured three times:

the lower vertical line will pass at a distance of 0.8 m from the floor;
the next horizon should be placed at a height of 0.6 m from the bottom line;
the last measurement is carried out at a distance of 0.8 m from the second horizontal line.

Similarly, measurements of the depth of the future structure are carried out and displayed in three-dimensional drawings, or data is entered into the design computer program.

It is important to remember that the measurement of the depth of the structure should be carried out, stepping back 0.03 m in depth from the line where the doors of the future cabinet are supposed to be located.

The relative complexity of measurements should include the curvature of the walls. If the built-in wardrobe is arranged in a drywall niche, such an error can be neglected. In the case of a self-contained design, the width of the cabinet is reduced by a distance equal to twice the wall curvature error.

Design complexity depending on the length of the wardrobe

Chipboard sheet, which is the most acceptable material for creating furniture with your own hands, has standard parameters:

length 2450/2750 mm;
height 1830 mm;
sheet thickness 16 mm.

The height of the wardrobe depends on the dimensions of the room and the height of the ceilings, the depth is calculated taking into account free space for placing coat hangers. As a rule, the depth of the wardrobe is slightly increased, and it is at least 650 mm, taking into account the gap for organizing a sliding door system, in contrast to a wardrobe with hinged doors.

In the event that the length of the cabinet exceeds the standard length of the laminated chipboard sheet, a two-in-one design is created, with a total length of over 3500 mm. like any overall design, a long wardrobe has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

The advantages include the reliability and strength of the structure, since two small cabinets mounted together are a monolith with a complete absence weaknesses and able to withstand any load. The disadvantage is the increased consumption of materials for the arrangement of the structure itself, which refers to additional financial costs.

Note to the owner. The useful space of the depth of the wardrobe is considered to be the internal volume of the structure used for storing things. A useless space that does not carry a load is a closet compartment occupied by a sliding system.

The main step in the manufacture of a wardrobe with your own hands is the competent design of the structure. Due to the fact that the wardrobe carries a multifunctional load, its interior is equipped with all sorts of drawers, shoe shelves and shelves for storing hats, mezzanines, laundry baskets, at least one wardrobe and one compartment for shirts.

Such a variety of design nuances to transfer to paper, you see, is somewhat laborious. Modernity is rationality in everything. Not only in the use of space, but also in saving time.

To save even more precious time and effort, created a unique specialized computer program"Bazis-Mebelshchik" for calculating the specification of the product with an assessment of the expected result.

The Basis-Mebelshchik program is widely used in professional furniture design. This is the main technological assistant of the modern furniture designer.

“In addition to the main direction - the design of built-in furniture structures, the program includes an auxiliary series of subroutines that allow solving the most complex design curiosities”,

says the leading technologist of the Furniture Morena furniture company, specializing in the production of modern products including built-in wardrobes.

It is important to know that when choosing the color of the panels of the future closet in the hallway, you need to focus not on the name of the coating, but choose the color according to your visual perception.

Cutting the material is best done with the help of professional furniture makers who own high-tech equipment. Agree that sawing off excess centimeters of shelves or side walls by hand is not just tedious. The process may well end in a complete fiasco and unforeseen financial costs in the long term for the acquisition of additional material.

On the part of some firms, when they have an order for cutting wardrobe elements, a service is offered for assembling the structure itself. Here everyone decides for himself. But, if you think carefully, it is desirable that the installation of mirrors and cabinet doors be carried out by specialists. In any case, transportation of a large-sized mirror surface without a stretcher is a very time-consuming and crucial moment, and it is better if qualified craftsmen carry out work on the design of the wardrobe mirror facade.

Cabinet parts and their preparation for assembly

Fittings and accessories, except for the door opening system, are purchased in ordinary stores that sell products for furniture assembly. These are self-tapping screws and confirmations, rod holders and the rods themselves, which can be immediately adjusted to the size of the cabinet, shelf supports and special nails for hardboard.

If sawing parts at home is a laborious task, then edging can be a real pleasure. home master. For pasting them, you only need an iron with the steaming mode turned off and set to ¾ of the power of the device.

Attention! Excess adhesive should only be removed with a dull knife so as not to damage the laminated surface.

At the end of this stage of work, each face is processed with fine-grained sandpaper.

There is nothing difficult in the order of assembly of the wardrobe, if you fully adhere to the recommendations and follow the sequence of each stage.

Do-it-yourself wardrobe at home with a photo

How to assemble a built-in wardrobe with your own hands

All sorts of techniques for hand-made assembly of wardrobes, in fact, have already been described many times. Much more useful, colorful and verbose can be a series of video tutorials and step-by-step instructions that perfectly demonstrate the process of how to assemble a built-in wardrobe with your own hands:

Only a small fraction of the video lessons are presented here, however, containing many useful tips for furniture lovers.

Tip #1

The beginning of work on assembling the structure must begin with the skeleton of the cabinet - the installation of the main box. They start from the base - a podium under the bottom for laying the bottom panel of the cabinet with phased construction sidewalls. Markings are applied to the sidewalls, and holes for confirmations are then drilled. Only after that the top of the cabinet is arranged, which assembles the structure into a single whole.

Tip #2

A podium for a cabinet, or a plinth, is a very necessary part of the design. It raises the front of the cabinet above the floor, ensuring the safety of the mirror doors. Otherwise, there is a high percentage chance that the bottom of the mirror surface will be inadvertently broken by the heel or toe of the shoe.

Tip #3

Processing the back of the built-in wardrobe with laminated fiberboard guarantees reliable protection all things from the penetration of dust into the cabinet.

Tip #4

If the design provides for legs for adjusting the horizontal level of the cabinet, they are attached to the bottom before assembly. Three to four pairs of legs are installed on long cabinets.

Tip #5

When carrying out the installation of a sliding system, it is necessary to pay attention to the guides. The bottom track is flat with fine grooves, while the top track is three-dimensional with wide grooves.

Wardrobe interior lighting

Fiberboard and chipboard are materials subject to combustion. For indoor lighting, low-power halogen lamps with a voltage of 12 watts are used. The lamps are powered from the household network through an adapter installed in the socket. Wiring must be braided and double insulated to prevent fire.

Remember! Permanent wiring under voltage 220V in the built-in closet is unacceptable according to the Norms and Rules of fire safety!

In this article I want to tell you how to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands. The procedure is quite laborious, so read everything carefully and strictly follow the instructions.

If in your apartment all the available cabinets and chests of drawers are already occupied, but at the same time there are things that need to be placed somewhere, the best solution to this problem would be to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands. Especially since independent production furniture will cost much less than buying it in a store or custom-made.

Determine the location of the cabinet

Initially, you should decide on the place in which the built-in wardrobe will be located. AT modern interiors often a drywall niche is provided for a built-in wardrobe. It is also possible to make a wardrobe in the entire wall, it will also turn out to be built-in.

If you are making a non-built-in closet, then you do not need to cut anything in the walls.

Drawings and diagrams

Then, based on the size of the niche, its length, width and depth, draw a sketch (drawing) of the future wardrobe. This document should take into account such points as the number of sections, the number of shelves, the distance between the shelves, the width and height of the sections, and also provide for the presence additional options, like, say, a minibar or a TV niche. See some drawings of do-it-yourself wardrobes.

Photo 4. Drawing of a sliding wardrobe Photo 5. Drawing of a sliding wardrobe Photo 6. Drawing of a sliding wardrobe

Necessary materials

After the cabinet drawing is ready, you need to calculate the number required material and furniture fittings and purchase everything you need in specialized stores. By the way, many points selling chipboard (material for making doors, walls) can cut a whole sheet of chipboard according to the dimensions specified by the customer. Thus, you will receive blanks for doors, walls and shelves of the future built-in wardrobe.

If you want mirror or glass doors for your future wardrobe, then you will have to order them in advance, it is unlikely that there will be blanks with your dimensions in the store.

Among other things, you will need a roller system and accessories (handles, fasteners, rivets, corners). Fortunately, there are a huge number of them in the construction market.

Preparatory work

Before starting work related to the assembly of the closet, the niche space should be prepared in the most careful way. Preparation consists in leveling all the walls, floor and ceiling of the niche.

Leveling is carried out with appropriate building mixtures intended for puttying. They are prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions, and then applied with a spatula to surfaces that require leveling.

After the putty has dried, the leveled surfaces should be treated with antiseptic compounds, if desired, the walls of the niche can be painted water-based paint, which has the same color as the chipboard of the future wardrobe.

Assembling the closet

Assembling a sliding wardrobe with your own hands is quite simple. Installation begins with the installation of a chipboard sheet that acts as the floor of the structure. Its installation requires careful alignment, since its accuracy horizontal position the appearance of the entire future structure depends. Horizontalness is checked by means of a building level, if necessary, they are inserted into the right places wooden coasters appropriate sizes.

After the bottom sheet is installed, you should proceed with the installation of the side walls and partitions of the various sections. All these structural elements are attached to the bottom sheet by means of corners and self-tapping screws. It is better to choose metal corners as they are stronger than plastic ones.

When installing the vertical components of the built-in closet, it is also necessary to carefully check the verticality and, if necessary, correct it.

The stage of assembling the base of the structure ends with the installation of the top sheet of chipboard, which is attached to the end of the side walls and section partitions with the same corners and self-tapping screws. After the box of the future cabinet is assembled, it should be inserted into a niche and fixed to its walls. This will require the effort of several people who will place the base of the cabinet in a pre-prepared place with a perfectly horizontal bottom plane.

Fixing the structure to the side walls is carried out by drilling holes in the side walls of the cabinet and part of the niche wall and then fixing it with dowels of the appropriate size.

At the next stage, horizontal shelves should be placed in accordance with the previously developed sketch of the wardrobe. Actually, the installation horizontal elements can be done in two ways.

First way more time-consuming and time-consuming, it involves the installation of shelves in the body of the structure after it is already fixed in the niche opening. In this case, furniture corners designed to support the shelves are fixed to the side walls and vertical partitions in the required place, and the shelves themselves are installed on them.
Second way provides for the execution of the required number of holes in the side walls and vertical partitions, as well as holes in the ends of the side elements, prior to the assembly of the base. The shelves are installed in their places by means of a tongue-and-groove connection, the operation is performed at the base assembly stage. This method guarantees a higher accuracy of shelf installation, however, in this case, the total weight of the structure increases significantly and, accordingly, when placing the base in the niche opening, the efforts of more people will be required than when installing the base without shelves.

Which method is more preferable is up to you.

Next, it is necessary to install mirrored moving doors on the guides. Guides and movable castors should be purchased at a store that sells furniture accessories. From a single strip of rail purchased at the store, two strips of the required length should be cut for subsequent fastening at the bottom and top of the cabinet base.Fastening is carried out taking into account the parallelism of these elements, by means of self-tapping screws.

Now for the doors. Doors, like all other elements, can be cut from a single sheet to the appropriate dimensions at the stage of acquiring raw materials. Mirror required size on the surface of the door is fixed with a tool called "liquid nails for the surface of the mirrors." I think it's not worth talking about the fact that the mirror is fixed evenly.

Movable rollers designed to move the door along the guide are fixed in certain places of the door - in its lower and upper parts on self-tapping screws. After all the doors are prepared, they have mirrors and rollers, they should be installed on the base.

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