During overhaul or due to the failure of plumbing, it is most often necessary to replace the toilet bowl. In order for everything to go smoothly, a number of features must be taken into account. this process and the right approach to choosing a new toilet. To carry out all the work, you can seek help from the plumbers of your housing office or from private craftsmen who will do all the necessary operations. However, installing a toilet with your own hands will save a lot of money, and understanding the whole process will help you choose the best option and method of mounting.

A complete toilet replacement is part of a major overhaul and includes the following items:

1. – pick up new toilet according to the method of fastening and the method of draining;
2. - dismantle old toilet;
3. - repair the room (replacement of lining, screed, sewer pipes, etc.);
4. - installation and connection of a new toilet bowl.

It is very important to make a choice and purchase a new toilet in advance. This takes into account a number of features and nuances.

Choosing a new toilet

According to their design, floor toilet bowls are divided into several types, differing in the shape of their main nodes.

So, there are the following models according to the shape of the outlet drain:

1. horizontal
2. oblique (at an angle of 45 degrees)
3. vertical

The shape of the bowl distinguish:

1. poppet
2. visor
3. funnel-shaped

The flush tank can be combined with the base of the toilet or mounted separately on the wall, raising it to a sufficient height, and sometimes to the ceiling.

Fixing toilets to the floor are also different. Basically, there are options with two and four direct attachment points, in addition, structures may come across in which special corners are attached to the floor, and the toilet itself is already attached to them.

Choosing a toilet should begin with the selection of the type of drain. If it is not intended to change the supply sewer pipe, then the same type of drain must be selected as was installed before. No adapters and pipes will be able to connect a toilet bowl with high quality, for example, with a direct outlet and a vertical one.

The way the tank is connected affects the conduction facing works in the toilet. After all, if a wall mounting method is chosen, then it will be necessary to prepare a place and anchors for installation.

Before you change the toilet, you should take into account the dimensions of the toilet so that the design after installation does not interfere with closing the door and installing the rest of the equipment, if all this is done in a combined bathroom.

Removing an old toilet

• Turn off the water supply to cistern. Drain all the water from it and unscrew the hose that goes to it. After that, you can unscrew the fasteners of the tank. Most likely, the bolts on which it is attached are rusted or stuck with deposits. In order to break them, you will need to hold the head of the bolt on one side with a screwdriver or open-end wrench, and on the other hand, unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. You can use WD-40 spray lubricant or some kerosene to soak the bolt. Then he will more easily succumb to efforts.
• After removing the tank, the fasteners of the toilet bowl are unscrewed. It can be nuts screwed onto an anchor or dowel.
• The next step is to disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. In the houses of the old building, the drain was fixed with a cement coating. For work you will need a chisel and a hammer. Carefully prick the cement with a chisel, placing it across the coating in two places. Then you can shake the toilet with force until the drain turns and loosens. After that, without disconnecting the toilet, tilt it in order to drain all the remaining water from it.
• When the dismantling of the toilet is completed, the hole in the sewer pipe is closed with a cloth plug or a wooden plug. It should be remembered that the gases from the sewer are not only poisonous and smell unpleasant, but also flammable.

You can not stand on ceremony with the dismantling of the toilet, because it is unlikely to be reused. In this case, to facilitate work with chipping off the cement coating, it is better to beat off most of the toilet bowl with a sledgehammer. In order to make it easier to scroll and loosen the drain after that, make a transverse hole in the pipe and insert metal rod or a wooden stick as a lever.

If cast-iron drain pipes are laid in the apartment, it is best to change them all to plastic at the same time. Use of PVC pipes for sewerage greatly facilitates the process of operation and initial wiring, as well as connecting all drain points.

How to install a new toilet

• When all Finishing work produced or the old toilet is dismantled, and the surface for the new one is leveled and prepared, you can proceed with the installation. To do this, either a corrugated pipe is attached to the toilet drain for articulation with a sewer outlet pipe, or a rigid pipe. It is best when the toilet drain fits perfectly into the pipe outlet and without the use of corrugated pipes. In this case, it is only necessary to use rubber compressor with edging. When using rubber seals, the drain transition to the sewer inlet must not be sealed with cement.
• Water supply is being prepared. The easiest way is to use a flexible hose that is wound around the water supply tap and to the inlet to the tank. You should carefully select the required diameter of the fasteners at both ends of the hose. Thus, 1/8” pipe outlets are often used, but 3/4” pipe can also be installed.
• After connecting, you can proceed to fixing the toilet to the floor or wall. More details about connection methods will be discussed below.
• The toilet is being assembled. A tank is mounted on a fixed base or a pipe is connected from a hanging barrel fixed on the wall. After that, you can check the performance of the toilet bowl and tank settings. To do this, turn on the feed cold water and wait until the tank is full. With the help of the adjustment, you can adjust the level to which water will be drawn. Each locking mechanism or tank comes with instructions on how to set it up.
• The final step will be the attachment of the toilet seat. There are holes on the far upper part of the toilet bowl for its fastening, and bolt or anchor fasteners are included with the toilet seat.

Ways to fix the toilet bowl and their features

There are three main options for attaching the toilet to the floor:

1. reinforcement with anchors cast into the screed, or the use of dowels;
2. installation of a toilet on a pre-mounted screed wooden base with screws;
3. fixing with epoxy.

What is the best way to fasten during the overhaul of the floor

If the toilet is being replaced during a major overhaul, then it is better to use the option with anchor fastening or with a prepared wooden base. In this embodiment, at the stage of forming a screed on the floor, anchors are placed on it strictly in accordance with the placement of the toilet bowl and holes for fastening. As a result, they should protrude about 5-6 cm above the surface. It is better to cut off the excess later than to face a problem when the anchor is not enough to fix the nut on it.

A wooden board (taffeta) is selected according to the size of the base of the toilet bowl. Nails are hammered into it in a checkerboard pattern over the entire surface so that they protrude from the other side. After that, turn the board over and install it in the place of the future location of the toilet. Concrete is poured into the screed along with taffeta along its upper edge. After that, you can install the toilet in place and secure with screws.

Fixing a toilet bowl to a tile

When fixing the toilet bowl under the nuts for anchors and on the dowels, it is imperative to put on rubber gaskets, which will protect the toilet from cracking when tightened and prevent the formation of rusty streaks on ceramics. It is best to use nickel-plated bolts and anchors so that at the end of their service life they can still be easily unscrewed.

For installation on an already finished surface, such as a tiled floor better fit fastening with dowels or on epoxy resin, so as not to spoil appearance coatings.

At the same time, holes are made under the dowels through the tile and screed for their installation, into which screws are screwed. It is important not to make holes too deep, so as not to damage the waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, then it is best to pour a little sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. A rubber gasket must be put on the screw. The toilet itself is best placed on a cushion of sealant and then pressed down with screws.

You can do without the use of screws, dowels and anchors. To do this, it is enough to take epoxy resin and properly prepare the surface of the floor and the base of the toilet bowl. This option is best suited if the barrel is installed on the wall, because it is half the weight of the entire structure. First of all, you should walk abrasive stone or sandpaper on the floor surface so that subsequently the epoxy resin normally adheres to the surface. After that, a layer of several millimeters of glue is applied to the floor and the toilet. After setting everything in its place, you should wait for the glue to dry completely.

Hanging solutions

It is getting more and more popular. Installation wall hung toilet made on the wall without fastenings or contacts with the floor. In order to fix it, it is necessary to build a metal frame that is attached directly to the load-bearing wall, and already to it the toilet bowl itself in the event that it is supposed to hide the tank and pipes behind plasterboard wall. In some cases, a hinged toilet with an open tank can be attached directly to the wall, but then it will be necessary to transfer the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening itself is carried out using anchors mounted in a wall or frame.

When carrying out a major overhaul in an apartment or during a planned renovation of plumbing, as a rule, you also have to change the toilet bowl. To this work went as quickly and easily as possible, you need to understand in detail how to install the toilet if you plan to install it yourself. Of course, you can invite a third-party worker for this, who will quickly do all the work. However, self-installation of the toilet bowl will give you the opportunity to save a lot, and a thorough understanding of the installation technology will help you choose the most suitable type products and installation method.

Preparing to install a toilet bowl: dismantling the old product

Before you install the toilet, you need to perform a number of preparatory activities. First of all, prepare the following tools:

• perforator;
• flexible hose;
• roulette;
• fan pipe;
• silicone sealant;
• wrench;
• tow, FUM tape, etc.;
• fixture.

The process of dismantling old plumbing begins with turning off the water supply to the tank. It will be necessary to drain all the water, and then unscrew the hose connected to the toilet bowl. Now take care of the tank mounts. If the toilet has been standing long enough, the fixing bolts are probably rusty. In this case, you will need to take an open-end wrench or a screwdriver, hold the head of the mounting bolt on one side with it, and on the other, unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. Also, the bolt can be soaked with kerosene or a special aerosol lubricant. Then it will be easier to unscrew it.

After the tank is dismantled, you need to unscrew the fasteners. It can be fixed with dowels or nuts. Next, you will need to disconnect the drain from the sewer. If you live in a fairly old house, then the drain was most likely fixed with a cement-based screed. In this case, you will need to arm yourself with a hammer and a chisel, with which you need to chop the cement. After that, shake your old toilet with some force so that the drain turns and loosens. Then tilt it to drain any remaining water. After completing the dismantling of the old product, close the hole in the sewer pipe with a wooden plug. Don't forget that sewer gases don't just smell bad. They ignite quickly and are poisonous. Be sure to keep this in mind as you work.

When dismantling the toilet, you can not be careful, because. You are unlikely to be able to use it again. Therefore, in order to quickly remove the cement coating, you can take a sledgehammer and beat off part of the product.

Step by step instructions for installing a new toilet

After you dismantle the old plumbing and complete all the necessary finishing work, you can proceed with the installation of a new product. Before mounting and connecting the toilet bowl to the sewer, it is necessary to level and prepare the base.

Take a hard pipe or corrugated pipe and connect it to the drain to connect to the sewer outlet pipe. Most the best way- this is when the drain enters the outlet of the sewer pipe without corrugated pipes. In this case, it will be possible to dispense with the installation of a rubber seal with a border. If you use a rubber seal, keep in mind that it will not be possible to seal the drain transition into the sewer inlet with cement.

To make the installation and connection of the toilet bowl as easy as possible, it is necessary that when installing a new toilet bowl, the dimensions of all its connections coincide with the dimensions of the old product.

Next, you will need to prepare the water inlet. The best way to do this is with a flexible hose, which must be wound to the entrance to the toilet tank and to the water supply tap. Be careful when choosing fasteners. Better check with the seller. He will tell you about standard sizes toilet bowls and about which fasteners and in which case you need to use.

Now that you know how to properly connect the toilet, all you have to do is secure it and check the operation of the system. More details on how to fix the toilet will be described later.

Having figured out how to connect the toilet, and having done everything necessary steps work, you will need to assemble the product. Install a tank on a fixed base or lead a pipe from a hanging wall-mounted tank.

Read the tank assembly instructions. Place it over the toilet and fasten it securely. Tighten the fasteners evenly, without excessive force, install the rubber gaskets as accurately as possible to ensure a balanced distribution of the load on given element designs. Take a flexible hose and screw one of its ends onto the outlet of the water supply pipe. The other end of the hose will need to be connected to the nipple of the tank. After that, take a wrench or adjustable wrench and smoothly tighten both ends of the hose. All connections must be wrapped with tow or FUM tape. The most high-quality connection of the tank to the sewer can be ensured using a reinforced hose with union nuts.

Now it remains only to check how correctly the toilet was connected to the sewer system, and set up the tank. Turn on the water supply and wait until the tank is completely filled. Set the level to which water should be drawn. Every modern cistern or locking mechanism comes with a manual detailing the setup process. Finally, you will need to attach the toilet seat. It is attached to the upper back of the toilet bowl. In this place there are holes through which the toilet seat is fastened to the toilet. For fixing, standard anchor or bolt fastenings are used.

The main methods of fixing the toilet

If you decide to fix the toilet with your own hands, you need to thoroughly understand how this product is attached. You can secure the toilet using one of the following methods:

• with the help of anchors embedded in the screed;
• with the help of dowels;
• install the toilet on a wooden base, connect it to the sewer and fix it with screws;
• fix with epoxy resin.

If you are installing and connecting a new toilet bowl during a major overhaul in the apartment, the best option would be to fix it with anchors or install it on a wooden base.

When choosing this method, you will need to place the anchors in accordance with the location of the holes on the toilet. They should protrude above the surface by approximately 50-60 mm. In the future, it will be easier to remove the excess than to break the screed and install longer anchors.

When choosing wooden board focus on the dimensions of the base of the sanitary ware. Drive nails into this stand. It is necessary to score in a checkerboard pattern and over the entire surface so that they protrude from the opposite side. Now turn the board over and set it at the mounting location. Fill the screed with a stand to the very top. After the screed has dried, it will be possible to install and connect the toilet to the sewer. Use screws to fix.

When fixing plumbing with nuts, it will be necessary to use rubber gaskets. They will prevent the appearance of rusty streaks on the surface. ceramic product and will not allow it to crack in the process of tightening the nuts. The best option in this case would be the use of nickel-plated fasteners, which can be unscrewed without any problems after the product has expired.

In the case of installing a new toilet on ceramic tiles it is best to use epoxy or dowels. This will not spoil the appearance of the finish when connecting the toilet to the sewer. If you want to do without screws and other fasteners, then use epoxy. Before using it, you need to properly prepare the base and the toilet itself. This option is best suited for those situations where the tank is installed on the wall. To get started, you will need to take sandpaper and treat the floor surface with it. This will improve the adhesion of the epoxy to the surface. After that, apply a layer of glue a few millimeters thick to the surface of the floor and the bottom of the toilet. Put the toilet down and wait for the glue to dry completely.

Wall-hung toilets - a great modern solution

Recently, hanging toilets have become very popular. Connecting the toilet to the sewer in this case does not differ significantly from the installation procedure for a traditional product. To install such a toilet, use metal frame. It is fixed to the bearing wall, after which the toilet is mounted on it. This solution allows you to hide the pipes and the tank itself behind drywall partition. Sometimes a wall-mounted toilet can be immediately attached to the wall, but you will have to embed the sewer pipe into the wall. To fix the toilet bowl, anchors are used, attached to the frame or wall.

Now you know how to connect the toilet, fix it and connect it to the sewer. This knowledge will help you do the installation of plumbing with your own hands and save on the services of third-party craftsmen. Successful work! See everything about toilet bowls from retro to high-tech.

Most compatriots, in particular skilled craftsmen, often independently taken for the repair of the house and its various systems. However, due to certain circumstances, they treat the installation of new plumbing with extreme caution and even disbelief in own forces. And although often for the installation of a toilet, for example, you have to pay mercenaries an amount equivalent to the cost of the toilet itself, this fact still does not stop them. But in vain, because installing a toilet bowl with your own hands is a very simple task!

Preparing for installation

Of course, it will not hurt you to familiarize yourself with a number of specific nuances related to the installation procedure, but they are so accessible that you can easily figure them out. In fact, it turns out that installation, direct installation and connection to common system sewers of bathrooms of all types practically do not differ from each other. The only difference can be identified in the connection of some additional features, coupled with the installation of an automated system.

Different systems are made up of similar elements

Of course, any toilet comes with step-by-step instructions for assembling it. During the installation of the drain and fill system, there should not be any difficulties. However, close attention must be paid, since its job is to regulate the pressure and volume of water filling the tank.

Check the contents of the cistern

Application deserves special attention. This solution is very convenient to use. We will talk about the installation in detail in a separate review.

Installing a toilet step by step

Consider the main pitfalls in the procedure for installing a brand new toilet. We will talk specifically about new settlers, that is, our instructions do not imply the dismantling of the old bathroom. Therefore, be careful.

So, for self-assembly of a newly purchased toilet bowl, you need to perform the following steps:

It's all! Self-assembly the bathroom has come to an end. However, you should not immediately use it for its intended purpose: you need to let the silicone harden. He does this for 6 hours. By the way, do not spare the sealant! There is not much of it in the assembly business. But be sure to make sure that the silicone is not inside the pipe.

Note: For self installation you will not need a bathroom and its tank professional tools. It is enough to stock up on a set of wrenches and adjustable wrenches.

Bathroom with vertical outlet

This model is especially popular in Europe. Such a toilet is a device in which the siphon located in the bowl and the outlet pipe are directed downward during installation. This versatile design allows you to install the bathroom at any angle to the wall.

For installation, you need to perform only a few steps:

• Make floor markings and install a conventional screw flange with a locking device;
• Install the sewer pipe in the center of the flange;
• Install the toilet bowl on the flange, securely fix the outlet pipe.

Bathroom with horizontal outlet

Or in another way with a direct release "into the wall". The most common in Russia. The outlet of such a toilet is invariably directed backwards. The outlet pipe in this design is connected to the sewer pipe by means of a specific cuff.

Pay attention in the installation procedure to fixing the bathroom to the floor. The legs of this type of toilet, as a rule, are equipped with specific holes designed to fix plumbing exactly to the floor surface.

Advice: Connecting a bathroom with direct outlet should begin during its installation. Dowels and standard screws are used as fasteners. Fasten the structure with all care, since excessively strong and sharp screw "pulling" is quite capable of damaging the integrity of the bathroom.

Toilet bowl with oblique outlet

Consider the main points of installation:

Connection specifics without corrugation

We have already considered the connection of the bathroom to the general sewerage system using corrugated pipes in step by step instructions. Is it possible to connect a toilet bowl without the use of corrugations, and will this process turn out to be more complicated? Such a connection, of course, is possible, while it is unlikely to cause you any questions.

If you are finally convinced of the uselessness of the corrugations, then take a closer look at the following specific nuances in the procedure for such a connection:

Mandatory use fan pipe. Given the angle of the toilet bowl, the connection of the adapter is carried out by different methods:

bathroom with slanted outlet– installation is carried out in the floor: in modern apartments you will no longer see such a connection, but once it was relevant;
bathroom with vertical outlet- installation is carried out strictly at a right angle to the wall;
bathroom with horizontal release – installation angle is equivalent to 40º, installation is made in the wall.

1. If the outlet of the bathroom does not fit the outlet of the sewerage system, it is necessary: ​​either to purchase a different model of the product, or still use flexible pipe adapters.

Thus, installing a toilet bowl with your own hands should not cause you serious problems. You can easily implement it, guided by certain rules, following the steps of the step-by-step instructions and taking into account the specifics plumbing installation. It will cost you much less than calling professionals at home.

In the next article we will tell.

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• Kinds
• Choice
• Mounting
• Finishing
• Repair
• Installation
• Device
• Cleaning

Do-it-yourself toilet installation

The reasons for replacing the toilet can be different: changing the old one, repairing or rearranging appliances. You can hire experts, but if you want to save money, it's better to figure out how to install the toilet yourself without their help.

- not such a difficult matter, but you will have to master several technological operations and follow some rules.

Choosing a new toilet

First of all, you will need a new toilet. When choosing a toilet, you need to pay attention to its size and connection. by the most the best option is the acquisition of a toilet bowl, similar to the one that stood earlier. This is important because you will be sure that you will not have problems with the connection, since all the holes will match. But often you want to buy something completely different, in which case you will expect difficulties with installation: the necessary spare parts for fasteners may not be available or it will be necessary to redo the sewer system if the toilet is mounted, for example, on the wall. Classic variant A toilet bowl is a floor-mounted toilet with a 45-degree outlet to the floor. If you had a toilet bowl of a different design, it is better to make a drawing of it in order to avoid mistakes when buying. But you, of course, can buy any model you like, especially since some come with detailed instructions on their installation.

When buying a new toilet bowl, it is necessary to take into account the distance between the edge of the toilet bowl and the side wall, it should not be less than 20-25 cm, the size of the toilet bowl is selected accordingly. The second parameter that must be taken into account is the distance from the floor to the axis of the vent pipe, which is indicated in the characteristics of the toilet bowl. If the socket is too high, then you will have to raise the floor level, which is quite laborious. If it functioned without problems, then install a new one in the same place.

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Materials and tools for installing a toilet

To install the toilet, you will need to stock up:

• puncher to make holes in the floor;
• dowels;
• a set of wrenches;
• screwdrivers for mounting the drain tank;
• silicone sealant;
• large wrench;
• tape:
• polyethylene;
• a piece of thin rubber or old linoleum;
• pencil or marker.

For drilling holes, it is better to use a hammer drill, if it is not available, then you can rent it. If you use conventional drill by setting it to shock mode, you can spoil tile and the process can take a long time. Perforator one hole is made without special efforts within 2-3 minutes.

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Removing an old toilet

Before installing a new toilet, you need to dismantle the old one, you can handle this yourself. There is an option to use the old toilet bowl again, for example, in the country. But in terms of economy, this is not the best option. All plumbing fixtures are designed for a certain service life, so they can quickly fail if you do not change parts. Replacing parts with new ones can cost as much as buying a new economy class toilet. Therefore, if the toilet has served most of its life, it is better not to reuse it.

Before dismantling, it is necessary to clean the pipelines. The easiest way is to pour hot water into the sewer pipes with some detergent. If you just drain the water from the tank, this will not help much, as it is dismantled old plumbing, and therefore there are deposits inside that will interfere with dismantling. For flushing pipes, you need to take 2-3 buckets hot water and dilute one bottle of whiteness or domestos in them, then all this must be poured into the toilet. Now you can start dismantling.

The tank is most easily dismantled, difficulties may arise with the lower fasteners. AT Soviet times it was not common to bolt the toilet bowl to the floor, most often the toilet bowls were installed on the mortar. Since the same plumbing fixtures were installed throughout the country on concrete floors with nondescript tiles, the described method was widespread. You can break such a base only with a puncher and a hammer. Don't forget your goggles, as shards of faience can get into your eyes. If the toilet was installed relatively recently, then to dismantle it, you need to unscrew the screws with which it is bolted to the floor.

When you can pour out a little water, so you need to prepare rags and buckets in advance. Next, you need to seal the sewer pipe using a piece of polyethylene and tape. Polyethylene should simply be wound around the hole and secured with tape. This procedure is necessary in order to avoid overflowing if too much waste flows from above. The intake opening must be cleaned before sealing. If the sewer is cast iron, then you can use a hammer and a spatula. If the pipes are plastic, then they can be cleaned with a sharp knife.

After dismantling the old toilet bowl, it is necessary to clear the place where the new device will be installed. If the floor surface was damaged during dismantling, the imperfections can be filled with a repair mortar. It is not necessary to wait for the complete drying of the solution, since the defects are usually small, and there are support points for the base of the toilet bowl. For complete drying cement mixture it takes a month, after which the surface under the toilet will be a monolith.

Regardless of where your toilet is located, in the house or on the street - you are quite capable of making a hidden installation; Next, we will tell you how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands.

The first stage - the choice of plumbing

So, Vacation home is under construction, and at the family council it was unanimously decided that cesspool as "amenities" - the option is far from the best. It is logical that white faience plumbing in the toilet will look much better, and you should not forget about comfort. So, there is a need to choose the most worthy option for your needs, guided by the accompanying documents. When the toilet is to be installed, the instructions that come with the kit will tell you what type of plumbing is in front of you. And there are many models today, they differ both in form and in material, not to mention the installation methods. Let's take a quick look at all the possible types.

In terms of materials, the choice, as a rule, is not particularly large; in the store you will almost certainly be offered faience or porcelain. Products from the first material are always covered with glaze, which tends to become covered with microscopic cracks and fade over time. The earthenware itself is very porous, which means that its moisture absorption is extremely high and without protective coating This toilet won't last long. Porcelain has a much greater degree of strength and less hygroscopicity; plumbing made from this material can last up to half a century or even longer. Recently they have become accessible toilets from artificial stone, durable and suitable for repair, however, the polyester resins included in the composition are not resistant to organic solvents. Acrylic and, more rarely, glass bowls are also produced today.

Such different designs

Next, consider design features. In general, the toilet always consists of a bowl and a tank, if you forget about such trifles as a seat circle and a lid. Less commonly, the kit is supplemented with a separate shelf, the task of which is to connect the toilet body to the tank. However, this option is inconvenient and creates unnecessary difficulties. Therefore, it is better to opt for modern models with a cast shelf, on which the installation of a toilet bowl with your own hands is easier (without the use of a special cuff).

As for the water tank itself, it can be in the form of a parallelepiped, flat (round, oval or rectangular), and according to the type of installation, it can be suspended, installed or compact (on the toilet shelf). , as a rule, is typical, and contains a standard water discharge mechanism. And finally, it remains to consider the type of installation, which the attached instructions can tell about. According to the method of installation, the bowls are divided into floor, attached and suspended.. The former are installed anywhere in the room, including in the corner, the latter are mounted close to the wall and used in conjunction with installation tanks, as well as suspended models.

The latter require the installation of a special frame frame. In addition, toilet bowls differ in the location of the drain, which can be oblique (at an angle to the floor), vertical or horizontal. Last option extremely rare in layout and is found mainly in imported models.

You shouldn't be afraid that suspended structures unreliable, they are designed with a margin for high loads and can withstand up to 400 kilograms.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation - how is it done?

The most interesting and spectacular option in terms of design is the installation of a tank. Firstly, most of the plumbing elements are not visually visible. Secondly, you will have integrated convenient system plum. Thirdly, such a solution is in fashion today, which means that the restroom will look very stylish after completion of work. And most importantly, you can do everything yourself and save on inviting specialists.

Master class toilet installation - step by step diagram

Step 1: Markup

In view of the fact that the frame for the installation will be mounted on the wall, we select the location of the structure and, after considering all the dimensions, we transfer everything from the drawing to the wall. We mark the points where the holes for mounting the frame guides and installation will be located (taking into account the fact that the toilet bowl will be raised after the floor covering). Vertical lines are best beaten off with a coated plumb line. We immediately make markings on the walls and on the floor under the drywall box, which will require a separate structure. It is desirable that the pipes are inside the space delineated by the lines, so that in the future communications do not interfere with the installation of profiles.

Step 2: Installing the guides

According to the marking made for the box with screws, we fasten the guides, thus designating the frame future design along the floor and walls. If necessary, we cut a small recess in the profile near the drain pipe, removing the side and part of the bottom of the U-shaped aluminum element. We install short crossbars, screwing them with short self-tapping screws to the guides.

Step 3: Assemble the front of the frame

We attach profiles to the crossbars, which will indicate the front wall of the structure, which will later be sheathed with drywall. Install external vertical elements frame so that the distance between them corresponds to the markings made for the installation. We are not doing a complete assembly of the structure yet, so that nothing interferes with the installation of plumbing.

Step 4: Building water and drain pipes

According to the future location of the installation, we bring the water supply to the desired level, at the end we install an adapter with a metal thread. Since the tank will most likely be fixed close to the wall, the wall will have to be slightly hollowed out under the pipe, making a small niche, which will not be difficult if the house is made of bricks.

Just like the plumbing, we are building up the sewer, taking into account that there will be tiles or other flooring under the toilet. For preliminary measurements, we imitate facing with a piece of drywall or plywood of the required thickness, placing it under the base of the bowl. If you are not sure that the drain hole will be at the correct level, use a bellows adapter.

Step 5: Mounting the installation

Having once again verified the position of the holes necessary for installing the installation according to the diagram and using the level, we perforate the wall according to the markings. With long screws with plastic anchors, we mount the tank and the flush system on the brackets, and connect the water pipe.

In order to avoid leaks in the future, you should immediately check the places of inflow and outflow of water by dumping it from the tank, after substituting a bucket or other container.

Step 6: Complete Frame Assembly

Between the previously installed vertical external rails, we fasten the transverse horizontal profiles so that the installation is behind them. At the same time, we mount two aluminum elements opposite the flush system in such a way that the button mechanism block clearly passes between them.

If you have an instruction with the specified overall dimensions of each node of the kit, it is advisable to verify the distance from the wall to the external guides of the frame during preliminary calculations. Try to ensure that the flush button does not protrude too much and is not too recessed. Next, you can sheathe the pipes with soundproofing, if there is a need to muffle the noise from filling the tank and draining water from it.

Step 7: Sheathing the Frame

Then we sheathe the structure with drywall, measuring the outlets of the flush and drain pipes, as well as the button block, and carefully cutting holes of the appropriate shape.

Having fixed the drywall sheets on the profiles with screws, we move the toilet bowl and check how accurately the flush and drain pipes brought out of the frame fit to it, using the appropriate adapters.

Step 8: Preparing to install the toilet

After the floors are completely tiled, we mark on it the places where the bowl is attached, for which we place the toilet bowl in the place allotted to it, and mark the places where the mounting elements are located. If the fastener is internal, with lateral fixation through the wall of the bowl, we mark on the floor the location of the centers of the holes in the toilet bowl and transfer the markings to the wall thickness.

We apply fasteners according to the marking and put points in those places where we will drill the floor (if the mounting holes in the base of the bowl are oriented vertically, we perform this operation immediately).

Step 9: Mounting Fasteners

We prepare the tile for drilling holes, for which we use an abrasive cone as a nozzle for a drill, with which we grind holes in the facing.

Then we install a drill in the cartridge and carefully, without the puncher mode, we make holes in the tile.

We clean the floor from the dust that has arisen during the drilling process. Using screws, we fix the mounting elements, checking their position in oval grooves fasteners by trial installation of the bowl. Then tighten the screws.

Step 10: Mounting the cover

There are two options for attaching the seat and cover, if you focus on the material: plastic and metal. The most preferred, of course, the second type, especially in the presence of a chrome coating against corrosion. Fasteners are always included, as well as instructions for their installation.

If you have metal hinges, you will most likely need to fix them with screws, which means keep a screwdriver handy.

After inserting the fasteners into the holes allocated to them, tighten the screws and install other parts. Then it remains only to attach the seat with the cover.

Flush button assembly

The mechanism responsible for dumping water from the tank into the toilet is installed immediately after the frame is sheathed with drywall, but then the box is finished. After its completion, you can open the tap, which is hidden behind rear wall(most often reclining) flush button block.

Then we place the levers in the block that are responsible for the response of the drain mechanism to pressing the button, and finally install the front panel with the keys as the kit instructions suggest.

Keys for draining water from the tank into modern designs usually two, for full and partial discharge of water. Click on each and check the performance of the system. However, there are also budget models with one key, as well as various lever variations. If you assembled the mechanism according to the instructions that came with the installation kit, everything will work as it should.

After draining, we look for leaks at the junctions of the watercourse and sewer pipes with the toilet bowl.