Why cherry blossoms a second time. What to do if the cherry blossoms, but does not bear fruit. How and when cherry blossoms

For several decades now, in the middle lane, it has become so customary for us that cherries bear fruit very badly.
There are good varieties good rules agricultural technology too - why is there no harvest?

Let's leave right away talking about coccomycosis and moniliosis - diseases that are usually blamed for the disappearance of berries on cherry trees.
Firstly, the disease is a consequence of the oppression of the cherry, and not the cause.

Therefore, I propose to discuss not ways to combat this disease, but how cherries should grow so that diseases do not touch it and that many fruits are tied on it.

Cherry from the root growth or from the stone still grows into a full-fledged cherry.

If you had to pick cherries in the village gardens of the black earth belt (Voronezh, Tambov regions), where it grows without any care, reproduces by shoots and bears excellent fruit every year, then you might notice that all trees have the same taste of berries, and trees with unusable berries simply no. This is the case with the "folk" cherry. Scientists are doing even better with cherries.

Suffice it to say that in Moscow and St. Petersburg, at horticultural institutes, varietal demonstration trees (Rusinka, Fatezh, Kharitonovskaya and many others) give young age 8-10 kilograms of berries, and annually.

As they say, from one tree and for you jam, and for liqueur. True, these varieties require vaccination.
Let me explain: when we are dealing with cucumbers, with asters or junipers, then we are dealing with a whole plant, and a varietal cherry, or an apple tree, or a pear consists of a rootstock and a scion.

What is the difference?

Just imagine that a person has been transplanted, transplanted some kind of organ - how much more difficult it is for him to work, for this organ, than for his former native: he cannot be given the same load, he needs a special diet, etc. Because otherwise rejection is possible. The connection between the tissues is incomplete, the metabolism goes back and forth with interference ... Grafted plants are in exactly the same position: they cannot be grown “like everyone else”, they need the most optimal conditions.
Otherwise, when any unfavorable factor is injected, the vaccine will be rejected.
We do not understand well that when fruit tree falls ill with black cancer, or its branches dry up, or a tinder fungus settles on it, or it freezes out, or a disease like moniliosis is attached to it - all these are forms of rejection of vaccination.

Fruit trees refuse to bear fruit, left to themselves, that is, growing without care: they are busy surviving, where should they bear fruit ...

1. SUNNY PLACE.

Grafted cherry trees, like all grafted plants in general, must be provided with an abundance of carbohydrates, which are produced in the leaves during photosynthesis in direct sunlight.
For them, you need to choose a place where direct Sun rays fall from early morning and last at least until the second half of the day, and even better - until the evening.

2. THE PRESENCE OF LIMESTONE IN THE SOIL.

I must say that in the old days all the problems of this tree were solved with the help of manure.
Manure perfectly eliminates soil acidity and contains calcium, therefore, with its constant application, cherries flourished throughout the middle lane. Today, in gardens where manure is brought in, it is still with a harvest. If there is no manure, it can be replaced by limestone flour in large quantities: it must be scattered annually far beyond the trunk circle in the doses indicated on the package (about 1 kg per 3 square meters). I would advise when planting seedlings to place in landing pit large and small pieces of concrete. At the same time, the pit does not need to be made deep, on the contrary, it is necessary to raise the root neck above the soil level by at least 15-20 cm, since the cherry does not tolerate the root neck getting wet, and even more so its “freezing” into a puddle. Fertilizer for cherries should be as soft as possible and in small quantities, it is best to use humus obtained from decomposed grass for this. It is scattered over the surface of the soil, it can be dug in shallowly - a third of the bayonet of a shovel. Mineral fertilizers are permissible only in small quantities and only those that do not acidify the soil.

3. PRESENCE OF FRIENDLY SATELLITE PLANTS.

The following have a beneficial effect on cherries and significantly enhance it: jasmine (mock orange), antirrinum, gladioli, marigolds, primrose, rose, hosta, lupine, strawberry, raspberry, yoshta (gooseberry hybrid with currant), turnip, peas - I would like these plants rated 4+.
Barberry and dessert grapes deserve a 5, and hazel grouse (bulbous) pulls 5+.

Here, instead of grass and weeds in the near-trunk circle of a cherry tree, it is better to plant some of these plants.

In addition, it is quite possible to plant crops next to cherries that do not harm and do not bring noticeable benefits: catchment, lilac, clematis, garlic, onions, cucumbers, pumpkin, lettuce, corn, beets.

It is undesirable to place near cherries (grades 2 and 3): all conifers, apple trees, honeysuckle, lilies, digitalis, narcissus, tulips, pansies, irises, spirea, carrots, parsley, celery.

4. POLLINATOR PRESENCE.

Cherries are known for their self-fertility. Its fruits are tied from pollen of another variety.
Sometimes the pollinator variety is not so easy to guess, so even if you grow 2-3 different varieties, they may not tie well. Find old cherry trees somewhere in the city (they remained in the place of abandoned gardens), dig up coppice trees nearby, plant them to your cherries aside, 3-4 meters away, and wait for flowering. If you bring such trees from different places, there is a good chance that your varietal cherries will get the right pollinator. As for the crown, fruit growers are wary of cutting cherries, since the cuts do not overgrow well, and infection is possible through them. Young trees can not be touched at all with pruners for up to 15-20 years. In order for the crown to be better rejuvenated, it will be necessary to remove old thickening branches from it from time to time - the smearing of saw cuts must be invariably thorough.
Pavel Trannua advised.

Seemingly, lush bloom cherries guarantee a plentiful harvest of tasty and juicy berries. Unfortunately, the presence of flowers on a tree does not always promise a lot of ovaries. Often, by the summer, gardeners find empty branches hung with foliage.

Where do the ovaries go, and why do the cherries bloom, but there are no berries? There may be several reasons for this phenomenon, and the solution to the problem depends on what exactly provoked the crop loss.

Most often, the lack of fruiting in the presence of flowering is caused by:

• lack of pollination of flowers;
• freezing;
• lack of moisture;
• poor soil.

Pollination problems

If only one cherry grows in the garden, and besides, it is not self-pollinating, you can wait for berries from it for a long time, and where can they come from without pollinating the inflorescences? Therefore, you should always plant at least two different ones so that one of them pollinates itself. Then the second tree will bear fruit.

When planting trees on large area the distance between them must be taken into account.

Sometimes pollination does not occur as a result of the absence of pollen-carrying insects such as bees. This is facilitated by the cold spring and the intensive use of various preparations in the processing of trees. You can cope with attracting bees to the garden by spraying the crown of cherries with sweet syrup (1 tbsp of sugar or honey per 1 liter of water).

Exposure to low temperatures

Return frosts cause great damage to future crops. As a result of spring frosts, fruit buds freeze slightly and can no longer produce berries. And when the air temperature drops to 1 degree of frost, the ovary simply dies and crumbles. To protect the tree, it is recommended to postpone the flowering time, as long as possible without removing the snow from under it. In the case when the cherry has blossomed and frosts are predicted, the crown of a small tree can be covered with a cloth. In the old garden big trees burning fires with smoke.

To keep from freezing in autumn root system, should be excluded at this time and watering.

Inadequate feeding and watering

During the season, cherries must be watered at least three times so that they have enough moisture for development and fruiting. In addition, the lack of nutrients also affects the yield. The tree has enough strength to bloom, but not to form fruits, so it is important to periodically replenish the reserves of trace elements in the soil, feeding the tree with organic matter and complex mineral preparations. It is also necessary to maintain normal soil acidity by introducing wood ash.

Cherry blossoms are a welcome spectacle of white and pink outfits on the branches. Despite the favorable climate for unpretentious cherries, sometimes flowering does not occur. Gardeners are perplexed: “Why does a ripe cherry not bloom, and what should I do?”. Numerous videos of gardeners are trying to help solve this problem. More often the reasons for the lack of flowering are: fungal diseases of the tree, improper care, an unfavorable year.

Bad year, bad care

The main reasons why a ripe cherry does not bloom:

• Unsuitable climatic features. Perhaps the tree is not comfortable enough in the conditions in which it grows. Cherries may not be suitable for growth in a particular region. It is necessary to change the variety by planting another seedling. Also, the tree may be too young, and you should wait 1-2 years.
• The reason may be late spring frosts. Sometimes a warm long autumn, awakening a fruitful tree, changes dramatically to a frosty autumn, which negatively affects the health of the cherry.
• Poor soil can cause flowering in a year, so the cherry is trying to build up strength for future flowering.

Attention! Fertilizing the soil will give the tree the missing nutrients which will allow it to bloom next year.

• General weakening of the cherry. Main manifestations: a small increase in young branches, a decrease in branching and an increase in the number of straight bare branches in combination with oozing gum. Big level ground water, as well as deep tree planting exacerbate the situation.

The reason for the lack of flowering may be cherry disease

fungal disease

One of the reasons for the lack of flowering may be fungal disease tree:

• Coccomycosis. Manifested by yellowing, falling leaves or flowers of the affected tree. Breeders have bred a number of cherry varieties not susceptible to this disease.
• Moniliosis. It affects the tree much more seriously, contributing not only to the fall of foliage, flowers, fruits, but also to its drying. Till resistant varieties breeders did not bring to moniliosis.

Tree rehabilitation

There is no general algorithm for saving cherries. The gardener will have to make the decision on the method of rehabilitation of the tree and the reason for the lack of flowering on his own. The main methods of cherry rehabilitation:

Attention! It should be remembered that a properly planted cherry is a guarantee bountiful harvest. When landing, there are special subtleties and tricks. Perhaps the cherry does not bloom because it is not properly planted in the ground.

Proper and regularly carried out prevention of fungal diseases of cherries, as well as compliance with care measures, will help to get the maximum yield. Preventive chemical treatment of wood should be carried out 1-2 times a year.

Why flowers dry on cherries: video

In many countries The Cherry Orchard is a symbol of family, prosperity and native land. And cherry blossoms often represent the bride with her innocence and purity. Dressed in April or May in a snow-white blanket, a tree arouses admiration and a desire to admire this delicate beauty. And cherry blossoms, which have become one of the symbols of Japan, give rise to a new life cycle.

How cherry blossoms

Sung by poets, cherry belongs to the rose family. The most common type is the common cherry.

Its white flowers are collected in inflorescences in the form of an umbrella.

What color is cherry blossom

The cherry flower is actinomorphic, i.e. having at least two planes of symmetry dividing it into two equal halves, with a double perianth. It consists of five non-fused sepals; petals are also five, they are free; stamens 15–20; pestle one - feature plum subfamilies; upper ovary.
Common cherry is pollinated by insects.

Cherry blossom leaves no one indifferent

how many days cherry blossoms

Cherry blossoms usually last for 7-10 days, and in cloudy weather can stretch up to two weeks.

When cherry blossoms - flowering time

Cherry blossoms until the moment of blooming of vegetative buds, sometimes simultaneously with it. The start time of flowering depends on the area of ​​​​growth and specific weather conditions. The beginning of flowering is usually associated with an increase in temperatures up to +10 0 C. Mass flowering begins if the average daily temperature is +10 0 C for two weeks. In cool weather, it drags on for up to two weeks.

According to the timing of flowering, cherries can be divided into early, medium and late flowering.

Cherry blossom and bee need each other

Flowering time depending on the growing area - table

Cherry blossom - spring, beauty, life - video

When do cherry blossoms bloom? This question is far from idle. After all, a blooming cherry orchard is not only beauty to the eye, but also the hope for a successful harvest of your favorite fruits. And if the bloom has passed in right time, and the weather did not disappoint, then the harvest will definitely please both the gardeners themselves and those who simply love fragrant berries.

Early in the spring, the soil is carefully loosened (closer to the trunk - to a depth of 5 - 10, away - 10 - 15 cm). Before loosening make nitrogen fertilizers(60 -80 g of calcium nitrate or 50 - 70 g of urea per 1 m2). They will contribute good growth and profuse cherry blossoms. In young gardens, for the first 2-3 years, it is recommended to keep tree trunks under black fallow, to carefully fight weeds. In old gardens, the soil may also be kept under grassing. Grass cut 5-6 times over the summer is left in place as mulch.

If the weather is hot and dry, be sure to water the cherry (2 - 3 buckets of water per 1 m2 of the near-stem circle). Good results give top dressing with liquid organic and mineral fertilizers before flowering and at the beginning active growth shoots. For this cow dung(bird droppings or feces) are diluted in water in a ratio of 1: 9 and applied at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 m2 of the trunk circle. Liquid mineral fertilizers are prepared as follows: 1 tablespoon of saltpeter (calcium or potassium) is dissolved in a bucket of water and applied to 1 m2 of the soil surface under the crown of a tree. Immediately after applying liquid fertilizer, sprinkle the soil with peat or humus to reduce moisture loss through evaporation.

Excess shoots are removed to the very base, for this they rake the soil and cut it into a ring to the base of the stem or skeletal root. If you leave at least a small stump, even more powerful shoots will develop from the kidneys. In order to propagate native-rooted plants, the skeletal root is cut with shoots. mother plant at a distance of 20 - 30 cm from the coppice plant, leave it in place, water it, loosen the soil for better development root system. September or spring next year shoots are dug up and planted in a permanent place. In June, in dry weather, watering the garden is repeated, followed by mulching. To set more fruits and better lay fruit buds (next year's harvest), it is useful to repeat liquid root top dressing organic or mineral fertilizers. Good results are obtained by foliar top dressing - spraying the crown with 0.5% urea (50 g of urea per 10 liters of water).

In September, grass mowing is stopped in gardens with natural sod spacing. When the soil is kept under black fallow, it is digged into trunk circles. Moreover, for better snow retention, clods should be left unbroken. Pre-contribute organic fertilizers(3 - 4 kg of humus per 1 m2), as well as phosphorus-potassium (40 - 60 g of superphosphate and 20 - 30 g of potassium chloride or 200 - 300 g wood ash per 1 m2).

Good results are obtained by the alternating introduction of organic and mineral fertilizers in a year, In dry years, for better overwintering of plants, carry out water-charging irrigation - 3-4 buckets of water per 1 m2. In September, start digging holes for spring plantings.

From the beginning of October, they begin to clean the boles and main skeletal branches from frozen bark, mosses, lichens. The wounds cleaned with a garden knife are washed with a 1 - 2% solution of copper (100 - 200 g per bucket of water) or 2 - 3% (200 - 300 g per bucket of water) solution iron sulphate. Coat the wounds with garden pitch. If there are hollows, close them with cement. Stamps and bases of skeletal branches are bleached lime mortar(1.5 - 2 kg of freshly slaked lime per 1 bucket of water). It helps to reduce the appearance sunburn. To protect young cherries from rodents (hares, mice), tree trunks are tied with spruce branches (tops of branches down). For better wintering, trees are spudded with soil.

In November - December, snow is regularly trampled in tree trunks, which prevents mice from penetrating to tree boles. When it snows heavily, shake off the snow from the branches. In November, before severe frosts, it is necessary to prepare cuttings (annual shoots) for carrying out spring vaccinations. Tie the cut cuttings into bundles and store in a snow pile until April.

Blooms profusely - bears fruit poorly. Why?

This question worries many amateur gardeners.

There may be several reasons for this phenomenon. Only some fruit species or individual varieties called self-fertile (self-fertile). In most breeds and varieties fruit plants fertilization and the formation of ovaries takes place only if pollen from other varieties of the same breed is transferred to their flowers (stigmas of pistils). Such varieties are called self-fertile (self-sterile) or cross-pollinated.

Among the varieties of cherries there are self-fertile (Lyubskaya, Zhagarskaya or Latvian low, Apukhtinskaya, Molodezhnaya, Mayak, Finaevskaya, Schedraya, Novoaltayskaya), partially self-fertile (Turgenevka, Oblachinskaya, Bystrinka, Subbotinskaya) and self-fertile (Vladimirskaya, Shubinka, Griot Moscow, Malinovka, Zhukovskaya , In memory of Vavilov, Muse).

You should know that all varieties of cherries are practically self-sterile. Hybrids between cherries and sweet cherries (ducs) are also self-fertile in most cases (cultivars Consumer goods black, Komsomolskaya).

Stably self-fertile varieties of cherries set from 20 to 40% of fruits when pollinated by their own pollen, partially self-fertile - from 5 to 20% - self-fertile - up to 5%.

Several varieties of cherries should be planted in the garden. For good mutual pollination, especially when choosing self-fertile varieties, it is important that pollinated varieties and pollinators be close in terms of flowering, fruiting time, fruit ripening and plant longevity. Here are the most optimal combinations of the main common varieties and pollinating varieties.

Vladimirskaya (Youth, Shubinka, Turgenevka); Moscow griot (Orlovskaya early, Carpal, Octava, Vladimirskaya); Malinovka (Vladimirskaya, Lyubskaya); Turgenevka (Vladimirskaya, Lyubskaya, Molodyozhnaya); Zhukovskaya (Vladimirskaya, Lyubskaya).

Pollination cultivars cherries can also contribute to the presence of wild forms in the garden. Self-fertile varieties tend to be more productive than self-sterile ones, but it has been found that when growing a highly self-fertile variety like Lyubskaya, it is possible to achieve higher yields if it is planted together with pollinating varieties such as Vladimirskaya and Zhukovskaya. It should be remembered that the self-fertility of varieties varies depending on the place of cultivation and weather conditions.

Cherry is pollinated by insects, pollination proceeds normally if the pollinated variety is located at a distance of no more than 50 m from the pollinating variety.

Cherry blossoms usually before blooming of vegetative buds or simultaneously with it. The beginning and duration of flowering depends on the growing area and weather conditions. In central Russia, mass cherry blossom begins in mid-May and lasts 7-10 days, in cool weather it drags on up to 12-15 days. The duration of mass flowering of one variety is 2-5 days. The pollen of one flower is capable of pollination for 1-5 days, and the stigmas of the pistils are susceptible to pollination for 6 days. For comparison: at pome breeds this period lasts 9 - 10 days.

Successful fertilization of cherries requires optimal conditions, in particular the presence of light, moisture and heat.

Frosts can cause significant damage to cherries during flowering. Cherry buds die at -4°C, flowers - at -2°C, ovaries - at -1°C and below. The most common frost protection methods are the creation of a smoke screen and sprinkling (i.e. spraying trees with water). Sprinkling is possible when the temperature drops to -1 ° C, the creation of a smoke screen - at 1 - 2 ° C. Among the existing varieties of cherries there are varieties with increased winter hardiness of flower buds. These are the Ural ruby, Generous, Crimson, Ras-lash, Orleya, Lyubskaya, Apukhtinskaya.

After abundant flowering, a high yield is also not always formed. rainy, cold weather during the flowering period, pollen quality deteriorates. In hot (30 ° C and above), dry weather, the quality of nectar decreases, so the bees visit flowers less often, which also results in a decrease in yield. The process of pollination and fertilization of cherries is negatively affected by fogs, strong wind, damage to pistils and stamens in flowers by pests and diseases. You should also be aware that some varieties of cherries, due to their biological features have low pollen viability.

During the flowering period and subsequently, the flowers and ovaries fall off. This phenomenon can be considered natural if the plant had too many flowers and fruit set. A close relationship has been established between the number of fruits and their weight and the presence of healthy leaves on the plant. Therefore, it is important to keep them completely on the tree and carefully protect them from diseases and pests (coccomycosis, perforated spot, aphids and sawflies).

To combat excessive shedding of ovaries and fruits, various synthetic growth regulators are also used, for example, spraying with naphthylacetic acid at a dose of 10-20 mg / l 30-40 days after the end of flowering.

Good fruiting in cherries can be achieved primarily through the correct, taking into account local conditions, selection of varieties, as well as their placement on garden plot, with normal pollination by bees and the necessary agricultural technology, or abnormal, if a significant amount of ovaries is lost. At maximum bloom and optimal conditions the number of flowers that set fruit is 3 - 7%!

Along with other reasons for the decline in cherry fruiting, despite abundant flowering, the most important are damage to parts of the flower during flowering spring frosts and deterioration of the quality of pollen (partial loss of the ability to fertilize) under the influence of low positive temperatures (10 - 12 ° C). Therefore, in colder regions middle lane Russia or in areas with moderate temperatures for planting, you should choose varieties of cherries with late deadline flowering (Lyubskaya, Turgenevka, Shubinka, Fertile Michurina, Finaevskaya, Ural ruby).

The better the plant nutrition, the better large quantity ovaries are preserved until final maturation. For cherries, foliar (spraying on the leaves) nitrogen fertilization is useful: the first time 10 days after flowering, the second time 2 weeks after the first. The consumption of urea in this case is 40 - 50 g (0.40 - 0.50 percent solution) per 10 liters of water. Using ammonium nitrate 15 - 20 g are taken per 10 liters of water. On peaty and sandy soils, as well as with unbalanced fertilization of cherries with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, there may be a lack of trace elements, which is one of the reasons for the strong fall of the ovaries. If signs of such starvation are confirmed, foliar top dressing carried out before flowering on buds, immediately after flowering and during the formation of fruits a month before their collection. Fertilizer consumption for ten 5 - 7-year-old cherry plants: manganese - 30 - 40 g; copper - 15 - 30 g; cobalt - 15 - 20 g; boron - 8 - 10 g and molybdenum - 2 - 3 g. The concentration of microelement solutions when spraying is 0.07 - 0.12%.