Potato with blue skin and white flesh. Useful properties and characteristics of purple or blue potatoes. The healthiest potato ever. Variety

For every landowner, a beautiful and well-groomed garden is a matter of pride and joy. In order for the plantings to bring pleasure to their appearance, you need to carefully consider the drainage of the garden plot with your own hands.

Why is there drainage in the garden?

At first glance, there is no need to equip a drainage system for green spaces. On the contrary, plants need water. But for certain fruit-bearing trees, this approach is wrong, for example, plum and apricot crumble from excessive moisture. Benefits of a garden drainage system:

Drainage is also essential for land plot located on marshy and clay soils where water is not drained naturally.

How to do

Exist certain rules that you need to follow in order to equip the drainage system on the site with your own hands:

1. The drainage plan needs to be carefully considered. It is very important not to touch the roots of plants;
2. You only need to use natural materials. Plastic drain pipe is very affordable and durable, but polyethylene and polypropylene can emit harmful substances, which will be absorbed into the fruit of the trees;
3. Be sure to consider a way to drain the drainage well - a septic tank. The moisture that is collected in it can be used for irrigation.

To determine the location on the site where the drainage system should be equipped, you need to dig a small hole. Then fill it with water and see which way the liquid will go. This is great way using improvised means to calculate the location main pipe drainage system. The porosity of the soil is checked in the same way: if the water has gone underground in less than a day, then the earth is porous and dry, but if the liquid has remained in the container for more than 24 hours, then most likely it consists of loam.

Step-by-step instructions on how to independently equip a drainage system:

When the drainage trench is ready, it is necessary to seal its walls for further arrangement. For this you can use wooden planks. Knock them into a formwork-like structure. Then tamp the bottom and walls.

At the bottom of the trench, pour a layer of sand, which will act as a filter for the liquid. Large crushed stone or construction waste should be placed on top of the sand; gradually, towards the top of the drain, the fraction of crushed stone used should be reduced. After that, it remains only to fall asleep drainage trench earth.

Now also a dehumidification system without gravel is often used. You can equip the drainage of a small garden plot with your own hands using improvised means. For example, after strengthening the walls of the trench, install several boards on its bottom that will intersect diagonally. This is perfect solution if you have a heavily swampy area.

The cost of such a drying system is very low. You can use textiles, wood, etc. for arranging drains.

Do-it-yourself garden drainage installation tips:

1. If you use drainage pipes, then you need to insulate them with geotextiles. This will protect the dehumidifier system from freezing in winter. There is another way - to overlay the pipe with clay. This option is called closed drainage;
2. You need to fill up the trenches with a slide. Consider the subsidence of the earth, on average, the poured soil will settle by 15-20 cm;
3. The average service life of a simple drainage system is 7-8 years, but if you work with pipes (iron or plastic), the drainage system will last more than 20 years;
4. Periodically, it is tedious to check the septic tank, clean it of silt and solid particles.

In the garden, you can make an open and closed system drainage, while the closed one will not be visible, but the open one can become great addition landscape design. In addition to the standard drainage system, you can simply dig an artificial reservoir in the lowest part of the site. Water will drain into it naturally.

Equipping their garden plot, especially from scratch, many gardeners try to do the drainage of the garden plot with their own hands. Until recently, parks and gardens were designed exclusively by landscape designers. Now, very often, the owners themselves plan the placement of plantings on their land, drawing up a site drainage project.

What is drainage for?

At times, in rainy summer, gardeners have to deal with such a very unpleasant phenomenon as flooding of part, or even the entire site, with water. If such a “wet” period occurs during the ripening of the crop, part of it may die. In addition, some malicious people are very fond of wet soil. garden pests(slugs, snails) that destroy grown vegetables, berries and even flowers. Therefore, the drainage of a garden plot is an important and sometimes integral part of the care of both newly-made owners of garden acres, and those who have had them for more than one year.

The word "drainage" has several meanings:

1. A material that absorbs water well from the soil, usually used when growing plants in closed ground.
2. A method of removing and diverting surface or groundwater from a piece of land using a system of pipes, boreholes, and similar devices.

Different soil types absorb moisture differently. Through light porous soils, water passes almost without delay. Plants planted on such soils do not have time to get the amount of water they need for growth and development. Clay, heavy soils, on the contrary, do not allow water to pass to the roots, which again deprives the plants of proper nutrition.

Pro tip: Determine the type of soil in your area. To do this, you need to dig a small hole up to 60 cm deep, pour water into it and notice the time when all the water goes into the soil. Complete absorption of water per day will indicate that the soil in the area is very porous. If the water does not leave for more than two days, the earth is too dense.

In order to somehow remedy the situation in the case of heavy, poorly water-permeable soils, it will be necessary to drain the site - drainage for drainage ground water.

How to arrange a drainage system?

Charting

Before starting work, the drainage scheme of the site should be well thought out. You should start with the water intake equipment. Then trenches are prepared for a collector that collects water from drainage pipes(drain), and for the entire drain system.

Drainage system rules:

• The diameter of each drain is 6-9 cm, the diameter of the collector is up to 10 cm. In areas of up to 0.5 ha, their diameters can be equal.
• The depth of the trenches intended for the collector and pipes is 1-1.2 m, the width is up to 35-40 cm.

• The depth of open areas in very relief areas is about 1 m, and on relatively flat or with a slight slope - up to 1.5 m.
• The slope of the entire drainage system towards the collector is 2-3 mm per meter of pipe with a diameter of 50-100 mm. For pipes of larger diameter, the slope should be somewhat less. Drainage pipes in the area with clay soil are laid at a distance of 7-10 m from each other, and in the area with light sandy soil - 15-20 m.
• The entire drainage system should be located no closer than 1 m from the foundation of the house and 0.5 m from the fence.

If the land is located in a lowland or on a slope, the question arises: how to properly drain the site so that water does not accumulate and stagnate in the lowest place?

Since the water intake in such cases is located, as a rule, above the territory requiring drainage, it is necessary to construct drainage well. It contains a special drainage pump, which automatically pumps all the water up into a ditch or ravine, which is a water receiver.

Work order

Work is performed in the following order:

1. Make a drainage well 2-3 m deep. You can strengthen its walls with reinforced concrete rings with a diameter of up to 1 m.
2. In order for the drainage pipes to serve for a long time without silting - the ingress of clay particles into the pipes, they should be wrapped with a special material before laying, which filters coarse particles. But most often, such pipes are sold already covered with geotextiles that act as a filter.

1. Volumetric filters made from rye straw, fibrous peat or weaving waste are also widely used. They protect plastic pipes used in drainage systems well.

Pro tip: The permeability of filters made of straw does not decrease for a long time due to auto-regeneration - the ability to restore its porosity with the inevitable decomposition of the filter material during operation. These filters are well suited for use on loamy and clay soils.

1. Drainage pipes are laid in trenches prepared and covered with 5 cm gravel.
2. They are sprinkled with gravel or crushed stone (not lime!) for 30-40 cm, and then for another 30 cm - coarse sand, on top of which a layer of fertile soil is laid.

How to extend the life of the drain

The drainage system implemented with the help of drains is quite effective. Drainage of the garden plot, carried out using only crushed stone and broken brick, within 5-7 years after the start of operation will require repair work or complete replacement. A system consisting of pipes can last without overhaul up to 50 years old.

Here are a few conditions that make up the observance of which will extend the life of the drainage system:

1. A complete ban on the movement of heavy vehicles in the area where drains are laid. For the passage of equipment, if necessary, it is best to arrange a temporary road.
2. Carrying out loosening of the earth, compacted by the wheels of machines, to make it permeable and loose. This will provide reliable performance the entire drainage system.
3. Flushing drains to avoid possible clogging of their holes with clay particles or rust every 2-3 years with a strong pressure of water sent from the hose from the collector into the drainage pipe system.

Any excavation in the garden it is better to carry out when the earth has not yet dried to a “stone” state. Wet soil, although harder than dry soil, in this case you will not break the tools, and the work will be carried out more efficiently. Otherwise, carrying out the described work is unlikely to cause any difficulties.

Support button.
Click - tell your friends about us!

Nowadays, building materials are very expensive. We want to give you a couple of tips on how to make drainage with your own hands from auxiliary materials that you can find in your backyard. It is possible to drain your site without spending a lot of money, you just need to make a little effort.

How to arrange stone or fascinated drainage of a summer cottage.
Fashin drainage of a summer cottage can be made from branches of oak, birch, hazel, alder or use conifers. From the branches form the so-called bunches-fascines. It is best to carry out this operation on crossed logs (goats), which must be placed along the length of the trench. The branches lie on the cross with a butt upwards following the flow of water, and are well tied up with a rope, willow rods, or steel wire with a step of 50-70 centimeters. If you do not tie the bundles, then the drainage will quickly silt up and will not function. The thickness of the beam (fascine) should be at least 25-30 cm. The largest branches are placed in the middle of the beam, and the small ones on the side of each side. Laying beams begins at the top of the ditch. Additional moss is placed on these bundles and on the sides. Near the entrance of the trench into the pit, with the help of boards, a source with a socket is made.

The period of operation of a wooden drainage located on peat soils equals 20-25 years. The drainage of a stone garden plot is made of crushed stone, 8-10 cm in size. The largest pebbles are placed on the bottom of the trench, and smaller ones on the sides and top. The level of the stone partition should be at least 30 cm. Moss is laid out on top of the stones, and then more layers of turf, so that the grass is below. The depth to which the drainage is laid should be 0.8-1.0 meters.

Wooden or ceramic drain suburban area
Before you make drainage with your own hands, first you need to set the level of the slope of the site, dig trenches, and think about plumbing system where the water will flow. Ceramic drainage of a suburban area is made of clay ceramic pipes, with a diameter of at least 5 centimeters from the inside. These pipes are laid tightly together in a trench. The joints should be covered with matting or damp moss. Groundwater enters through cracks in the joints. At the place where the drainage enters the reservoir, a source is made in the form of a pipe made of wood, into which another wooden tube is inserted. Backfilling the trench is done like this: for starters, layers of turf are laid so that the grass is on the bottom, then everything is covered with earth.

The depth of the backfill is on average 1 meter. Drainage pipes made of wood are made from 3 boards. Moss is laid around the entire perimeter of the pipe, and then crushed stone or fine gravel is carefully poured. After that, the sod plates are laid out with the grass down, and covered with earth. Pipe installation starts from the source. For drainage, poles are taken from the poles. It is best to use poles conifers with a thickness of 7-10 cm. Before laying, you need to remove the skin from the poles. They are placed on transverse linings in one or two balls, laying moss on top. This installation technology can also be used when you make drainage with brushwood. Although drainage from brushwood is short-lived.

How to make soft drainage on the site with your own hands?
After geotextiles and tecton appeared on the materials market, it became quite possible to make soft drainage with your own hands. Tecton has excellent moisture absorption properties, and once it has absorbed it, it does not release it back. Geotextile is something like a "filter" - it allows water to pass through, and debris remains in the middle. The device of soft drainage is not so complicated. In this article, we will tell you how to make soft drainage of a garden plot in 7 steps.

First, you need to dig a trench or pit for drainage, so that the bottom of the pit or ditch is tilted to the side where water will need to be diverted, then a trough-shaped tecton is laid out on the bottom of the canvas. After that, it is necessary to cover the entire ditch with geotextile, so that 40 cm edges remain, this will be necessary in order to overlap. Drainage material, such as small pebbles or crushed stone, should be poured over the geotextile, about two-thirds of the depth of the pit. Overlap the drainage with the edges of the geotextile that remain. In addition, top up with sand and level. This dacha drainage is very simple to install, but it works no worse than all the others.

garden drainage open type
In those suburban areas that are located in lowland areas, there are often problems with high humidity, since melt or rain water is practically not absorbed into the soil, and after that a large mud puddle remains. Anyway, even if you do not have a swamp under your feet, you need to make at least the simplest drainage.

The open drainage system of the site is perhaps the most easy way to take the thawed and rain water, this is not an innovation and has been used for a long time. It is very simple to make such drainage on the site, you just need to dig around the perimeter of your personal plot a trench, which should be 0.5 meters wide and with the same depth, but one of the sides (into which water should flow) should be inclined by 30-40 degrees. Due to this, all the water that enters the trench will drain along a free path into sewer or a ditch, which is often common between several sites. The main advantage that such drainage has on the site is that the water will not stagnate, but will immediately drain, and, of course, ease of installation. But not everyone likes their plots to be dug up by various ditches; there are other types of drainage for them.

How to make drainage with your own hands closed type?
The closed drainage of a suburban area is quite difficult to make, and it requires the purchase of some materials, but it looks more beautiful. It is necessary to lay drainage pipes, with holes for water throughout the trench. To do this, they dig ditches somewhere at a distance of a meter from the foundation of the building and set the desired depth. To take away excess water from the rhizome of trees, the drainage system of the site should be one and a half meters deep, and half a meter is enough for bushes.

The entire drainage system of the site should be on a slope, from the top of the site, gradually increasing the level of the drainage pipes, it is necessary to carry out drainage to the border of the site, or to the place where it will be, water is taken. The water that enters the pipes through the holes runs through the drainage system, at the end of which it would be desirable to equip a well that will be about half a meter below the level of the pipes. Thanks to this, the pipe, which is gradually collected in the pipes, will be completely absorbed into the ground, and besides, the owner can clean it from time to time where it is clogged. After every two turns, you can also make shallow wells. By installing such drainage in your garden, you will save your crop from flooding.

Proper organization garden drainage on the suburban area, in your own garden or just in the yard will allow you to permanently get rid of the problems associated with excessive moisture. But a logical question arises, how can plants be on a site without moisture? That's right, they can't do without it, but an excess of moisture can be very harmful to green spaces.

Why you need garden drainage

Sometimes moisture, which is vital both for a person and for all living things, can bring not so much benefit as harm. An excess of water in the garden plot has a detrimental effect on everything that is planted in your country house - trees, flower beds, flower beds. Under influence a large number waters begin to rot the roots of plants and trees, as a result of which the plantations become ill and may even die. In addition, in an area with excess water, plants that are of no interest begin to grow, for example, various lichens, moss, etc. A garden plot can become swampy for various reasons, for example, due to high level groundwater due to clay soil, which does not pass water well and even the surrounding terrain and the location of the garden plot can lead to waterlogging of the soil.

What to do if something happens in your area similar situation how to prevent excess moisture in the soil? There are few options here, one of which can be high-quality garden drainage.

Indoor and outdoor garden drainage

There are two types of garden drainage: indoor and outdoor. A closed-type drainage drains water that has already been absorbed into the soil, thereby draining it. The functions of the open are to divert melt and rainwater from the surface. Often used combined scheme drainage system, which combines closed and outdoor drains to achieve the highest efficiency.

In any case, you should not be careless about the creation of a drainage system in the garden. It is necessary to think over and calculate everything in advance, since improperly arranged drainage, in the design process of which the characteristics of the terrain and soil were not taken into account, can create prerequisites for the soil to dry out, thereby making it unsuitable for the growth of green spaces. Therefore, when preparing a drainage project, one cannot do without the help of competent specialists.

Outdoor garden drainage device

Open-type drainage is created in order to prevent melt and rainwater from entering the soil. It consists of wide, but shallow ditches, which are carried out taking into account the slope. This will ensure that excess water exits the garden area.

Enough big role in the functioning of such drainage plays a water intake. If there is any ravine or river near the site where excess water can be drained by gravity, then you are very lucky. If this is not possible, it is necessary to build an artificial water intake, for example, drain hole, located outside your site, which will be able to accommodate all excess water. The only drawback of such a solution would be the need to periodically pump out water from the pit.

But if you look at it from the other side, then you can use the diverted water for a wide variety of purposes. For example, this water can be used to water a plot in places where there is insufficient irrigation, use it to flush the toilet. And if you install a filtration system for melt and rain water, then it is quite suitable for washing or washing dishes.

Closed garden drainage device

According to the principle of operation, such a drainage system is no different from an open one. The only difference is that the ditches for water drainage are placed underground, as a rule, to a depth of 60 to 150 cm. The advantage of such drainage is that it does not spoil in any way appearance garden landscape.

When installing closed drainage, one or, based on the size of the site, several trenches are dug, taking into account the required slope. Subsequently, all trenches are combined into a single highway, through which excess water goes beyond the boundaries of the site. A river, ravine or artificial reservoir can also be used as a water intake.

When building a closed drainage system, the inevitable question is how to fill up the resulting trenches in order to ensure the normal functioning of the drainage? Special difficulties not here. A layer of crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the ditch, the thickness of which is 15-20 cm. Between the small stones, voids will form, through which excess water will be removed.

Then a filter layer of sand is poured over the rubble (layer thickness 20-25 cm), which will not allow artificial drainage to quickly silt up with soggy soil falling into it. After that, you can finally bury the trench with fertile soil.

In conclusion, I would like to once again note the importance of the correct calculation of the garden drainage system. The project must take into account all factors that may affect the condition of the soil. Therefore, turning to professionals, you can avoid mistakes and avoid possible drying up of the fertile soil layer.