What is the best drain hole to make. How to make a drain from the roof with your own hands. Where should the cesspool be located?

Fifty years is a lot or a little? During this period, technology has stepped far forward. It would seem that quite recently, people living in the private sector did not have the opportunity to accept hot shower and I had to go to the toilet, and you will agree that this is not very pleasant.

For modern man accustomed to living in comfortable conditions, such discomfort is out of the question. And therefore, during the construction or reconstruction of a house or a country house, the question arises: how to make living in it, even for a short time, if it concerns a country house, more comfortable.

The convenience of a family living in a house depends on the availability of communications in it. These include gas, light, water,. Next, we will dwell in more detail on the installation of sewage in a country house. It is absolutely correct to assume that every owner wants to have all the amenities at home. But not everyone can pay a tidy sum for this and, moreover, spend a lot of time installing everything necessary for this. But if your house is small and your family does not live in it permanently, but only stops at short term, then a drain pit will help solve the problem.

This is a structure, which is a kind of well, which works on the principle of drainage. A drain pit can be made on your own from a barrel, used car tires, or from brick, new or used.

Drainage pit from a plastic container

The drain pit from the barrel is constructed from a large metal or plastic container, with a volume of 200 liters, the side surface of which should be equipped with drainage holes. Holes can be made with a "grinder" with a circle for cutting metal.

Drainage holes are sawn in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 15-20 cm. For connection with the sewer system, a branch pipe is fixed in the bottom of the tank.

The junction of the pipe with the bottom must be made absolutely waterproof, for this you can use silicone sealant. Sealing must be carried out both from the inside of the barrel and from the outside. The pipe will be connected to the sewer pipe by means of a coupling.

In order to protect the drum from the ingress of suspended particles into it, and at the same time to facilitate the free exit of the liquid, it should be completely wrapped. similar material is an nonwoven fabric from polyester material and has good filtering, drainage and protective properties.

Geotextile is tightly fixed on the surface of the barrel with a synthetic rope or adhesive tape, a hole must be provided for the pipe. The open top of the barrel is firmly fixed with a piece of geotextile. In the place where the water will be drained (shower, washstand, toilet in the country), they dig a hole, which should exceed the size of the installed barrel.

The bottom of the drain pit is covered with crushed stone or gravel, 20-30 cm thick. The barrel is installed with the nozzle up, and on the sides, to the very top of the pit, it is covered with gravel. The last step is the connection sewer pipe to the pipe. This is how you can use the barrel by making a drain hole out of it.

Drainage pit from car tires

Used car tires useful for sewerage suburban area. This will require free time and 4-5 used tires. The principle of the device of a drain pit from tires is almost the same as the device of a drain pit from a barrel. You also need to choose appropriate place for sewerage. A hole is dug in this place, 20 cm wider than the diameter of the tires.

The depth of the pit should be 60-80 cm more than the height of all future rings in total. The bottom of the pit is covered with coarse-grained gravel, 30-40 cm thick. Then tires can be laid one on top of the other, and very tightly and evenly so that the joints are minimal. Sidewalls should be sawn off or cut off from tires. With this you will be helped to cope or sharp knife or . At the top ring-tire, only one side should be cut off. It is necessary to introduce a drain pipe at the level of 4 or 5 rings, for which a special hole is cut out in it. The drain pit is closed with a strong lid, such as metal or wood, and covered with a thick layer of soil.

Drainage pit made of bricks

Quite simply and inexpensively, you can make a brick drain pit. In this case, it does not matter which brick to use, new or used, the main thing is that it be ceramic and fired. This will determine how long a drain pit made of a similar building material will serve you. An ordinary brick will not work, as it is afraid of water and will quickly crumble.

The bottom of the future drain pit is covered with a pillow of clean gravel or rubble, and the walls are lined with bricks. Laying is carried out in half a brick and on cement mortar. The drain hole should be covered with a strong cover, which can be purchased at a hardware store, but if you want to save money, you can make it yourself from concrete, for example.

This method of arranging a drain pit allows the use of iron concrete rings or large plastic containers without a bottom.

All of the above methods are good because they do not involve high costs and quite easy to install, also suitable for small country houses. It is possible to use such structures if on the site low level ground water, the soil does not subside and mining is not envisaged drinking water. When choosing a place for a drain pit, several nuances should be considered. The place should be located as far as possible from the windows, so as not to feel the possible bad smell, as well as to the place where the drain pit is located, there should be a convenient access for specialized machines for cleaning it, which will need to be carried out sooner or later.

Summing up the above, we can say that a good owner will not be left without a sewer, even if he does not have a lot of money. You just need to want to equip your living space.

If a person lives in a house, it must have sewerage, since waste products still need to be disposed of somehow. And it's hard to disagree with that, isn't it? The modern industry offers many solutions: from multi-section septic tanks to neat dry closets. But ordinary cesspool in a private house is still relevant and in demand.

But, before proceeding with the construction of a cesspool on the site, you will have to weigh the pros and cons. After all, an incorrectly chosen place, and the design of the cesspool itself, subsequently, threatens to turn into many problems. The most common of these is the appearance of an unpleasant odor. We will tell you how to avoid this problem.

In the article, we have collected and summarized information about the types and design features of cesspools. In addition, here you can find helpful tips and recommendations on how to choose and build a sewer on the site. The material is accompanied by thematic photos and videos.

A cesspool is perhaps the oldest and simplest type of sewage. It is a depression in the ground, in which accumulate and partially recycle wastewater.

Any drain contains a certain amount of bacteria that absorb and convert these accumulations. Part of the filtered effluent passes into the underlying soil.

Everything that has not been recycled and has not gone into the underlying layers should be periodically removed from the cesspool so that the container does not overflow.

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On the summer cottages often arrange a separate cesspool for the toilet. It looks like a relatively small depression in the ground, over which a light wooden structure.

When the pit is filled, the toilet is removed, the recess is covered with earth. Waste rots in the ground and turns into compost - a useful fertilizer.

Later on this place is planted fruit tree, which will give excellent harvest in such a well-drained place. And for the toilet they dig a new hole, which is later disposed of in a similar way.

But for needs big house, especially for year-round living, such a solution, of course, is not enough.

The diagram shows the arrangement of one of the pit options - a filtering sewer well. A structure with sealed walls, at the bottom of which there is a multi-layer filter made of sand, crushed stone or gravel mixture

Modern cesspools have a fairly large volume, and their walls are built from the most various materials.

It could be:

brick;
aerated concrete blocks;
wood;
old tires, etc.

For the device of the simplest cesspool, it is now possible to purchase a ready-made one with a hatch and strong walls.

With its help, the process of building a mini-sewer in a suburban area is greatly facilitated and accelerated at times.

The classic version of the cesspool for country house is a pit with a depth of about 1.5 m with sealed walls and a bottom. A hinged lid is arranged for pumping and exporting wastewater, a ventilation pipe is installed to remove odor

When choosing a material for a cesspool, it should be borne in mind that prolonged contact with an aggressive environment will gradually destroy its walls. To extend the life of the structure, you need to choose materials that are resistant to such effects.

There are two types of cesspools: sealed and filtering. In the first, wastewater is accumulated and stored until it is pumped out. Secondly, there is no bottom in the traditional sense of the term, and there may be holes in the walls so that part of the waste enters the ground.

If it is supposed to filter wastewater through the walls of the structure, then a gravel-sand filter with a thickness of at least 15 cm is arranged around them.

Thinking over a place to place a cesspool, you should immediately take care. The easiest and fastest way to perform this unpleasant procedure is with the help of a sewage machine. Therefore, sufficient space should be provided for the passage of such equipment.

It also happens that a site for a cesspool that meets the standards does not allow the use of a sewage machine. In this case, the accumulated drains are removed using a special pump or an ordinary bucket.

The pit is made airtight or with holes for filtration. The choice is influenced by the level of groundwater in the area. If it is less than a meter, the pit must be completely sealed.

Otherwise, effluent may enter aquifer and adversely affect water quality. It will not be easy to restore its normal composition in such a situation.

For a sealed cesspool, you can take a special plastic container. It is necessary to install such an element carefully so that the walls do not bend or burst under the pressure of the soil from the outside.

To equip a sealed cesspool, the bottom is concreted, the walls of the structure are made without gaps. Alternative option – plastic container installed inside the pit.

It will also provide the necessary tightness, but it should be remembered that plastic is significantly inferior in strength to concrete or brick.

If the first aquifer from the surface lies 1 or more meters below the bottom of the pit being constructed, then it can be arranged according to the principle of a filtering or absorption well.

The bottom of the pit is formed from a material with high filtration properties: sand, crushed stone or gravel with sand filler. The thickness of the filter bed is at least 1 m.

It makes no sense to arrange a filtering structure on rocky and semi-rocky rocks, loams and clays, because. processed effluents simply will not be able to migrate further into the ground.

It is also not done if there is a possibility of unloading into open water near bathing places or water intake points for technical purposes.

Cesspools of the absorption type are built in soils capable of passing treated effluents. It is allowed to arrange them only in cases where between the conditional bottom of the filter well and highest level occurrence of groundwater, the thickness of the soil will be from one full meter

For a small family of three, there are folk standards for cesspools. They are arranged at the rate of 0.5 m 3 per person, with an average depth of 1.0 - 1.5 m, a width of 0.8 - 1.0 m.

If a small-sized closet for summer residents who do not live permanently in a suburban area will rise above the cesspool, standard sizes and the estimated volume can be reduced somewhat.

To make an absorption-type pit using brickwork, a small gap is left between the bricks. Gaps can be made not throughout the masonry, but only in certain places

Features of the installation of cesspools

So, the place has been chosen, it's time to start building the pit. Usually, special equipment is used for this, since removing large volumes of soil manually is too long and difficult. Pit configuration can be square, rectangular, round- it all depends on the material chosen.

In agreement with local inspection structures, in rare cases, it is permissible to build a cesspool from wood. Wood is recommended to be pre-treated with special materials to increase its service life.

As practice shows, wooden cesspools do not last long and may need to be repaired after a few years.

For water resistance, the gaps between the logs are caulked and tarred, and a waterproofing layer of clay 45 cm thick is applied to the bottom and walls. From above, the cesspool is covered with densely packed logs, and a hatch of about 80 × 70 cm is arranged for the possibility of pumping out sewage.

And another option for finishing the walls of the cesspool is old tires. They are stacked in a pit to protect the walls of the pit from destruction. Of course, we are not talking about any special tightness in this case.

This is a temporary option that does not provide a large volume for the accumulation of stocks. But making a hole out of tires is relatively easy, and it performs its functions quite satisfactorily.

A tire cesspool is a relatively small absorption structure. Its main advantages are the availability of materials and ease of execution.

The nuances of the operation of cesspools

If the cesspool is arranged correctly, big problems with her work will not arise. the main problem- regular cleaning of the tank from accumulated effluents. You should not wait until the tank is full, you need to start removing drains earlier.

However, simply pumping out sewage does not automatically make a building clean. In cesspools, over time, phenomena such as silting of the bottom and contamination of the walls with fatty deposits are observed.

All this leads to a reduction in the volume of the structure, it fills up faster, and vacuum trucks have to be called more often.

Over time, silt deposits can accumulate at the bottom of the cesspool, which prevent the natural removal of fluid from the sewer tank.

In addition, pollution enhances the already unappetizing aromas characteristic of sewers. One way to solve the problem is to use special . These microorganisms are simply poured or poured into a container in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

The presence of bacteria accelerates the processing of wastewater and prevents the possibility of contamination of the surrounding soil. In addition, microorganisms are able to significantly reduce and even completely eliminate the unpleasant odors of sewage.

Read the instructions carefully before using bacteria. Such drugs are not always compatible with some types household chemicals. You need to choose a different composition or change the means for cleaning, washing and other needs to more suitable ones.

Sometimes even bacteria do not help, the walls and bottom of the container are covered with deposits. In this case, mechanical cleaning of the container will help. After pumping out the sewage, a worker descends into the pit and cleans the dirt from the walls.

Then a layer of silt is removed from the bottom. The cleaned bottom should be covered with a fresh layer of crushed stone or gravel.

Cleaning cesspools is not only time-consuming, but also dangerous. They should be performed in special protective clothing and a respirator. Protective goggles and, of course, gloves will also come in handy. It is not recommended to perform such work alone.

Deposits can release gas hazardous to human health. A worker inside the pit may suddenly lose consciousness under the influence of such fumes. Even if there are two or three people working below, they should be insured by someone on the surface in case of such trouble.

Cesspool of concrete rings

The use of prefabricated reinforced concrete structures, in this case, concrete rings, significantly speeds up construction, so they are used quite often. Such elements can be used to equip both a sealed and absorbing cesspool.

In the first case, monolithic rings are taken, and in the second, special rings with holes are used.

For the construction of a permeable cesspool, designed for additional treatment of wastewater removed from the septic tank, perforated concrete rings can be purchased

Of course, whole elements without cracks should be used so that the structure does not fall apart during operation.

To make a cesspool of concrete rings, follow these steps:

Choose a location for the building.
Make markup.
Dig a pit.
Level the bottom.
Fill the bottom of the pit with concrete screed.
Install concrete rings.
Lay the necessary sewer pipes.
Seal the seams.
Carry out waterproofing and sealing work.
Backfill the pit.
Install concrete floor with hole and lid.
Install ventilation structures.

Of course, there is no need to concrete the bottom for an absorbent cesspool. Instead of a screed, a layer of gravel or rubble should be placed on the bottom to improve the drainage of the structure. And for a sealed structure, you can find a ready-made concrete ring, which already has a bottom. But these options are rare.

Concreting of the bottom is carried out using a screed with a thickness of about 10 cm. To give the layer additional strength, crushed stone is added to the composition. the solution should be as homogeneous as possible in order to achieve uniform drying.

Until the screed dries, it is impossible to continue work on the arrangement of the cesspool. We'll have to wait at least a week. After drying, flaws may appear on the screed - cracks, bumps, etc. They must be repaired with a special repair solution.

Concrete rings should be installed very carefully. This can be done with a crane or by hand. Connections are sealed with rubber gaskets, you can use old car cameras. At the joints, the rings are isolated with a solution.

To install concrete rings in a cesspool, it is recommended to use a special construction equipment. This work can be done manually, but you will have to involve several people.

For digging a trench with a slight slope - about 3 degrees. The recommended depth of such a trench is at least one meter so that the pipes do not freeze in winter. For the same purpose, the pipes are covered with a layer of heat-insulating materials.

A hole in the concrete ring for connecting a sewer pipe can be made using a perforator.

After the pipes are laid, the quality of the work is checked by lowering some water into the sewer. After making sure that there is no leak, you can start backfilling the trench. Usually used as top cover reinforced concrete slab.

It is best to choose a design that already has a round or square service hole. Such a hole is closed with a standard cap.

Good ventilation of the cesspit helps to improve waste processing and remove unpleasant odors. For ventilation in the upper ceiling, it is imperative to make a special hole and bring the pipe up.

A plastic pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm is suitable. From above it must be covered with a special deflector to prevent the penetration of precipitation into wastewater.

The cesspool is an ancient structure, but useful. This is the simplest and relatively cheap way provide the house with reliable autonomous sewerage.

It is only necessary to choose the right place, determine the volume and strictly follow the technology of work.

You own the secrets of arrangement autonomous sewerage with a dump? Perhaps you recently built a storage tank for sewage from improvised materials with your own hands? Tell us about it - your experience may be useful to other owners of suburban housing.

When building a new house, one gets up important question- this is a drain pit and its arrangement.

Residents of megacities and even small towns do not face sewerage issues, but outside the cities there are a lot of places where this problem comes first.

Probably most people have suburban areas whether it be a house or a cottage.

And when arranging such a site, you could encounter the problem of draining wastewater due to the lack of sewage. And without sewer system a comfortable and pleasant stay is impossible.

To solve this problem, you can arrange a drain pit with your own hands, especially since it is quite easy and quick to make it, you just need to understand the principle of its operation, get acquainted with the most convenient options devices, and find answers to the most important questions.

You will find all this in this article.

In order to quickly arrange a sewage collection system, you must first determine the volume of the future structure, choose a place for placement.

You can make a drain pit with the involvement of a team of builders, or you can do it yourself, having minimal building skills.

The whole process consists in digging a hole and strengthening the walls. Let's understand in detail how to make a drain hole.

Modern country and country houses largely different from the old buildings.

Residents are gradually changing the wooden toilets in the yard to comfortable toilets, install shower cabins in the house, bathtubs, useful home appliances.

But in the absence of a central sewerage system, the question of where wastewater should flow dirty waters, is usually solved in the simplest and most convenient way.

Drainage pipes are installed through which water flows into the pit, which is located outside the house on the site.

The most common cesspool, which has been known since very ancient times, acts as a drive; it can be equipped very quickly in many ways, for example, using concrete rings, bricks, tires and much more.

When filling the pit, waste and sewage are pumped out of it using specially equipped equipment.

For people who get out of the city mainly on summer season, the easiest and cheapest way is a do-it-yourself drain pit, especially since it is usually made from the simplest materials at hand, and such an installation takes only a couple of days in time.

The location of the future pit

So, when you decide to make a drain pit, the first thing you need to do is decide on its location, because there are special regulations in this regard:

A drain pit in a private house should be located only in the adjacent territory;
The device of such a pit should be at a distance of 10 meters from the foundation of your building and other structures, including those located in neighboring areas. Due to the proximity of the leaky drain pit, destructive processes are possible in the foundation of nearby houses and other buildings;
Also, the cesspool should be located no closer than 1 meter to the fence;
The depth of the pit should be no more than 3 meters. At the same time, it is important to take into account the level of groundwater occurrence;
The device of the pit should be no closer than 30 meters from drinking wells;
If there are elevation differences on the site, then the pit must be built in the lowland;
pumping out drain pits should take into account the possibility of access to it by special equipment.

Determine the future volume of the pit

Before deciding on the type of future pit, it is necessary to decide what dimensions the drain tank will have. The volume must be calculated with the conditions for using water resources in the house.

If housing is permanent place location of the whole family, then the drive must be provided for many sewer outlets.

But if your site serves only for recreation in the summer season or on weekends, then in this case the pit may also have a smaller volume.

Everything matters here, from the number of people resting to calculations of whether a drain pit will be used for a bath.

When calculating the volume of the cesspool, also take into account the accessibility of the sewer truck to it, given that pumping services are paid, with frequent use of water resources and a small volume of your pit, it fills up very quickly, so a frequent call will cost you a pretty penny.

Cesspool with bricks

most accessible and easy way arranging the walls and bottom of the drain pit is to lay them out with brickwork.

Such a system has a number of its pros and cons, we will consider them in more detail.

Advantages of a brick drain pit:

environmental friendliness - pumping out drain pits from bricks is quickly and easily done using a special sewage machine;
independence from seasonal fluctuations in groundwater;
does not pollute the adjacent soil, since the large-volume pit is equipped with a bottom and is fenced on all sides;
ease of construction - such a pit can be made quickly and without great physical costs by a person who does not have building skills, with minimal knowledge.

Cons of a brick drain pit:

The appearance of an unpleasant odor when filling the pit with drain water. Timely cleaning of the drive will help to cope with this;
Fragility - when exposed to an unfavorable environment, the brick can be destroyed. Thus, the average service life is about 15 years;
Cleaning cost. A brick pit requires calling a sewage truck once or twice a month, provided permanent residence, this will avoid the accumulation of silt mass at the bottom, which in the future will greatly complicate the cleaning of the drive.

Necessary construction tools and materials

Before starting work, you need to take care of necessary tools and materials:

shovels - shovel and bayonet;
measuring tape;
level;
buckets for carrying out the earth;
stairs;
sand;
cement;
gravel;
bricks;
reinforced rods;
ruberoid.

Consumption building materials depends directly on the volume of the future pit.

Construction of a drain pit made of bricks

The first step is to dig a hole. This can be done in two ways, with your own hands or with an excavator.

The second method is much more expensive, but it will help you save a lot of time and effort.

Usually a pit is made no more than a meter wide, the length is chosen in accordance with the volume of future wastewater. The upper layers of the excavated earth can be left to fall asleep in the garden.

After you dig a hole, you need to fill the bottom with sand with a layer of about 15 centimeters, a layer of concrete of the same thickness is laid on top of it.

On top of it, a screed is still made with a layer of 2-3 centimeters from a sand-cement mortar. Certainly, the best option will place a reinforced concrete slab on the bottom with a slope of 45 degrees.

Brick laying is done in a checkerboard pattern, they are fixed with a mixture of sand and cement.

On top of the brickwork, plaster can be made, for a long service life, a layer can be laid reinforced mesh, along which plastering will be carried out.

Do not forget to make a ventilation system, this is perhaps the most important stage.

Why is ventilation so necessary?

So that there is an outflow for the removal of methane gases, which fill the pit in the processes of decomposition. Ventilation is carried out through the hatch opening or an additional ventilation pipe is mounted.

Construction of a drain pit with concrete rings

Mounting the cesspool with concrete rings is done in this way.

If it is intended to use concrete rings without a bottom, then first you need to fill the bottom of the pit with a mixture of gravel and cement, about 10 centimeters thick.

After complete hardening, the resulting cracks must be additionally filled with cement mortar.

Installation of concrete rings is carried out quickly with the help of special equipment, but if it is not possible to involve it, then it can be laid manually with the obligatory help of other persons.

All joints of concrete rings in without fail needs to be sealed. You can also additionally waterproof the concrete rings and the bottom of our pit.

Before laying pipes, it is necessary to make holes for installation inside concrete rings.

A trench for pipes must be dug to a depth of not less than a meter to avoid freezing in minus temperature. Also, the slope of the pipes should be about 3 percent.

Drainage pit from tires

If a drain pit in a country house or plot is planned to be of a small volume, then the cheapest and in a simple way installation will be a do-it-yourself drain pit from tires.

Usually you need about 10 tires, which can be found for free in almost any tire shop.

When the pit is prepared, a hole is made in the center with a garden drill so that sewage can seep through the layers of soil after the pit is filled.

Mounted in this hole drainage pipe, it should be located about 1 meter above the bottom of the drain pit so that it does not become clogged with large drain waste.

The bottom of the pit must be covered with a layer of gravel about 10 centimeters. After these steps, you can start laying tires, first you need to cut off the inside.

The joints formed between the tires must be sealed, and the voids between the tires and the walls of the pit itself are covered with clay.

After that, it is necessary to install a pipe through which drains will be drained. A tire drain pit is a fairly popular option.

Pit with a barrel

When digging a hole for a barrel, it is necessary to make it 15–20 centimeters larger than the diameter of the container.

The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand, which is 15 centimeters, if the groundwater is very close to the surface, it is necessary to make a screed from a solution of sand and cement.

After the pillow is ready, you can begin to install the barrel in the pit. The remaining earth will go to fill the cracks around the walls of the pit and barrel. But such waste pit fills up very quickly.

This article on how to properly make a drain hole is completed. Guided by all the rules and advice, after looking at the photo instructions, it will not be difficult to build such a system on your own.

When you have built a house or a summer house for yourself, you have begun to equip it, then you will definitely need to drain drains from the roof. This problem will make itself felt immediately after the first rain, as all the water from the roof will pour onto the steps, the foundation and even the walls, which is not good at all. Your task is to build a system for the outflow of water from the roof, that is, a drain. There are two options: buy already finished structure or design it yourself. The first method is much cheaper and will save money, however, some efforts will have to be made. It is necessary to choose what material the future drain will be made of, what shape it will be, and where all the water should drain. You can figure out all these nuances by reading our article. Moreover, we will consider why a drain is needed, in particular, what functions it performs, what are the requirements for these elements, what it consists of and, directly, how to make a drain from the roof with your own hands. Let's find out everything in detail.

And yet why

Drainage is an important part of the design of the whole house. Its presence is very important for several reasons. You can probably see a house in which there is no drainage system on the roof only at the construction stage, since this system is usually done first. And all because it performs important functions:

protective function. Thanks to the drain, precipitation does not fall on the walls, foundation, steps and blind area. This is the main purpose of the drain. When it is absent, the basement of the house will simply collapse within 5-10 years. Water will fall on the foundation, leaving the ground, as a result of which the foundation will erode. Moreover, traces of water, smudges and stains can form on the walls, which will spoil the aesthetic appearance of the entire building. Yes, and the steps of the porch will collapse over time.
Collecting rainwater from the roof. This is especially important for owners of a large garden or garden, because rainwater is very good for watering plants. If the drain pipe is taken to a special container, a barrel or a large tank, then after good rain you will have additional source water. This is good not only for the soil, but also for your wallet. The presence of such technical water will not hurt anyone.
Decor element for your home. If you make a beautiful ebb with your own hands, you can complement the overall picture of the house, giving it a complete look.

All this makes the drain system an important component of the entire building. Without it, of course, you can do in some cases, but this is fraught with undesirable consequences.

It is worth noting that to make a drain on quick hand it is also impossible for it to function correctly and for a long time, some requirements must be observed:

The product must have high strength, resistance to various mechanical deformations and high loads. It must withstand strong gusts of wind, hail, the weight of snow in winter, etc.;
Durability. The material must be resistant to various external factors, corrosion from water, withstand temperature extremes and precipitation.
Last but not least, good appearance, because no one wants one detail to spoil the entire facade.

It is important to comply with all these requirements, then your efforts will not be in vain. But what material can a drain be made of, and which one will be better? Let's find out.

Materials for manufacturing

The water drainage system is made from various materials, which differ in their characteristics and price. There are two main materials for the manufacture of a drain:

Metal.
Polymers.

These are the most common materials from which you yourself can make water drainage. If we talk about metal, then it is more expensive than plastic due to its strength. In the manufacture of the drain, it is additionally coated with an anti-corrosion agent and decorative coating, because, as you know, the disadvantage of metal is the tendency to corrosion. In addition, during operation, a metal drain from time to time must be additionally treated with the same means so that it does not rust from damage, dents and scratches that may occur during operation.

If you want to make a metal structure, it is better to choose these:

galvanized steel;
copper;
aluminum.

To make a drain from galvanized steel, you need to purchase it in sheets, the thickness of which reaches 1 mm. For additional protection material from corrosion, choose a material coated with polymers: polyester, plastisol or pural.

The aluminum construction is quite light, which is its advantage. The thickness of the sheet can be from 0.8 mm to 1 mm. A special varnish is used to protect the material. It not only protects aluminum, but also improves its appearance. Such structures serve for a long time, and if aluminum does not come into contact with other metals, rust will not form on it.

The advantage of copper products is that they do not need to be further processed. Such an outflow is considered more durable, beautiful and of high quality, it is ideal for making a water drainage system if your roof is not made of another metal. Copper, like aluminum, should not come into contact with other metals. The only problem - high price on the material.

Note! During operation, copper is covered with a greenish coating - patina.

Another thing plastic elements. They don't need additional processing are more durable and do not corrode. Increased strength, durability, quietness and UV resistance - all these features have made plastisol and polyester the main materials that are ideal for the manufacture of ebb. Gutters made of plastic have another advantage - polymers can be different colors, so you can choose one that matches the color scheme for your home.

Note! It is worth noting that the price of plastic is much lower than that of metal, so polymer plums will cost you less.

If we talk about the disadvantages of the material, then there is one significant one: with low temperatures the plastic becomes brittle. And, despite the various additives in the production, in very coldy plastic can crack, which will break the tightness of the entire system. True, if you live in a region with a temperate climate, this drawback will not bother you.

Considering all of the above, you can decide which material to choose for the manufacture of water drainage from the roof of the house. Before proceeding with the manufacture of the ebb, let's find out what elements it consists of and how it works.

Components of the water drainage system

First you need to determine what exactly to produce, because the drainage system consists of various elements:

Gutter. One of the main elements of the whole structure. It serves to collect water from the roof slopes. Can be round or square, mounted horizontally from the bottom of the roof overhang. The size of the gutter depends on the area of the slope that it will serve.
Pipe. The vertical part of the structure, which allows you to divert water to the place you need, whether it be drainage system or a container for collecting rainwater. Pipes are attached to the wall of the building.
Stormwater or funnel. An element that connects the gutter to the pipe.
Turns and angles. Structural elements, which allow you to bypass the house, various protruding elements, etc. Thanks to them, it is also possible to mount the pipe at various distances from the wall of the house.
Plugs. In those places where a funnel and a pipe are not provided, a plug is installed.
Gutter connection. When the wall is long, the gutters are connected to each other by special connecting elements.
Fasteners for pipes and gutters, allowing you to tightly fix these elements to the wall.
Leaf trap. Sometimes a trap is mounted in the system that looks like a lattice. Thanks to her, the leaves do not penetrate the system and do not clog it. You just have to periodically remove the leaves from the trap.

As they say, it is better to see once than hear a hundred times, so below is a diagram in which you can clearly see all the components of the system.

How to find out how much material is needed for a job

Before we get started, there is one more issue that needs to be addressed. You should decide how much material to buy for the construction of the drain, so that you do not have to spend money on shipping again. Yes and excess material maybe long time lie dead weight until you decide to use it in the construction of some outbuilding.

So, how to correctly calculate the amount of material needed to create a drain. In fact, everything is not as difficult as it seems. To work, you need to arm yourself with a tape measure larger than 5 m, a pencil or pen, as well as a notepad for notes. It all starts with the fact that with the help of a tape measure, the total footage of all the gutters around the perimeter is calculated. The resulting number will tell you how many meters of material are needed for the gutters. Write down all the data so as not to forget anything. And, of course, do not take the material to the nearest centimeter, a small margin is required.

Note! The cross section of the gutters can be of two types: round and square. Which type to choose depends on your own preferences. Only here it is worth noting that it is easier to care for round products because they are easy to clean. Square shape does not allow you to thoroughly clean the dirt in the corners.

Now you need to figure out how many funnels will go to the system. Make it even easier. Usually one funnel is installed on the gutter every 10 m. If the house is small, then funnels are often placed simply on its corners. If the length of one of the walls of your home exceeds 10 m, professionals recommend making several drain points. The number of funnels should also be recorded.

You do not even need to calculate how many pipes are required, since this number will be equal to the number of funnels. All that needs to be done is to measure the distance from the roof to the ground or the place where you want to drain water to find out the required length of the pipe itself.

Turns and knees are calculated strictly individually, respectively. design features facade of the house. It all depends on the number of corners, obstacles and turns to go around. Consider the desired distance of the pipes from the walls.

Upon completion of all calculations, you need to find out required amount fasteners: brackets and clamps. The brackets will fix the outlet gutters in increments of 60-80 cm. It is necessary to divide the total length of the gutters by the distance between the brackets. This way you will know exactly how many pieces you need. As for the clamps with which the pipes will be attached to the walls, it is definitely difficult to say something. Basically, 2-3 clamps are enough for one pipe, it depends on the height of the wall. Look at the number of pipes in your drainage system and determine the number of clamps.

That's all, the calculation is over. It was the most easy stage drainage structures, it will be much more difficult to mount it. Now all you have to do is take a look at your records, and go to the store with them to buy all desired material. When everything is ready, you can get to work.

How to make a gutter from the roof yourself

Consider how to make your own drain from plastic pipes, since it is the simplest and effective option. As practice has shown, best materials for this case, plastic sewer and ventilation pipes.

To work, you will need the following tools:

Bulgarian.
Screwdriver or screwdriver.
Roulette.
Cord or thread.
Self-tapping screws.
Sandpaper.
Level and plumb.
Marker.
Silicone sealant.
Scaffolding or stairs.

And as materials you need to purchase:

Plastic pipes with a diameter of 80, 90 or 110 mm, from which the gutters will be made. They are cut in half.
Plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, which will act as vertical drain pipes.
Plastic fittings, which will be funnels, connecting the gutter and the vertical pipe.
Corner outlets and elbows that allow the gutters to wrap around corners of the building, as well as redirect vertical drain pipes to the desired location.
Plastic plugs for pipes, which will also have to be cut in half.
Plastic brackets and metal clamps.

First of all, you need to decide on the cross section of the pipes, which depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof itself. There is a special calculation formula by which you can find out the required diameter. If the area of the roof slope is 50 m 2 or less, then it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 80 mm. When the area of the roof slope is 125 m 2 or less, then pipes of 90 mm are selected. And when the area of the roof slope is more than 125 m 2, a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is required.

Note! You will also need funnels, sockets and adapters, but their diameter is determined based on the diameter of the pipe that departs from the gutter.

Now let's make gutters - this is the hardest work that requires accuracy and correct calculation. Pipes will be used as gutters, which must be dissolved in half in length. It will be easy to cut them, but to do it evenly is difficult. From one pipe you will get two identical gutters. Here's what you need to do:

Take the pipe desired diameter and put it on the boards. For ease of use, fix the pipe with a self-tapping screw to the board.
At the very top, on front side pipes, stepping back a few centimeters, screw a self-tapping screw into it exactly in the middle. Do the same on the other side. It is not necessary to tighten the screws to the end.
Stretch a thread between them. Make sure everything is even.
Now mark the cut line on the pipe with a marker.
Remove the thread and, focusing on the markup, start sawing the pipe with a grinder. For safety reasons, wear protective goggles. Make sure to cut the pipe evenly, as this will depend on general form gutters.
It remains to do exactly the same on the opposite side of the pipe. Only now the pipe is fixed to the board in two places, since by sawing the pipe, you have made two separate parts of it.
Depending on the number of gutters required, cut all the pipes intended for this purpose.
Using sandpaper, clean the cuts on the pipes.

This is how you can independently make gutters, which will become the basis for the drainage system. Now you just need to connect the elements of the gutters together, taking into account the required length on each wall. Ready-made gutters will be connected to one another using self-tapping screws. Since these are sewer pipes, one end of which is wider, they can be connected very simply;

One gutter is inserted into the other with an overlap of 5–10 cm.
Using a screwdriver or self-tapping screw, fix them to each other in three places: on the sides and below.
The finished mount can be lubricated silicone sealant to prevent water leakage.
To make corner gutters, you need to take a knee, and using the method you already know, cut it in half.
At this stage, in the places where the vertical pipes will be located, it is already necessary to insert a plastic fitting and fix it with self-tapping screws. Again, you need to cover the junction with sealant.

Note! When connecting the elements to each other, do not screw in the screws too tight so that the joints are slightly mobile. Thanks to this, the structure will walk under the influence of wind and various temperatures without collapsing.

We can say that your roof drainage system is ready, it remains only to put everything together and install it in the intended place.

All steps are shown in detail in the video:

Rules for installing a drainage system

Before installing your homemade design, it is important to familiarize yourself with some rules for installing water drainage elements. They concern not only plastic products, but also any others. Compliance with these rules is very important, because thanks to them the structure will fold for a long time and perform its functions correctly.

Installation of gutters around the perimeter of the house should be carried out on frontal bar cornice, edge truss system directly on the roof. It is better to choose the first two methods. But, it is worth noting that it will be easy to implement them when the drainage system is installed at the stage of building a house, before it is laid roofing material. If you have already completely built your house or cottage, you can attach gutters to the edge of the roof.
When used as gutters metal pipes, the brackets must be placed at a distance of 80 cm to 1.5 m. If the gutters are made of plastic, minimum distance from 60–80 cm.
Gutters must be fixed so that they can easily catch the flow of running water. To do this, you need to step back from the edge of the roof by a third of the pipe section, so that two-thirds of the gutters protrude, and water gets clearly into them.
To prevent water from accumulating in the gutters, they must be installed with a slope towards the funnel. For every 1 m of length, the slope should be 3–5 mm. This will be enough for the water to flow down into the funnel unhindered.
The distance of the upper edge of the gutter from the edge of the roof must not be less than 30 mm. If this requirement is not met, the entire structure may be torn off by a mass of snow or ice that comes off the roof.
It is important to ensure that the joints are well sealed so that water does not seep through them. To do this, you can use either a sealant or a pipe seal - a rubber band. It must be cut into two parts and put at the junction, where it is screwed with screws. It will also serve as a thermal gap, which is required for the structure to be movable.

These are all the rules that you need to follow when installing a water drainage system. Now it remains only to put everything into practice!

Installation of a system of sewer pipes

First you need to choose a starting point, that is, a place from where you will start work. Since the work will be carried out at height, take a ladder and check if it is reliable. You should be especially careful, because gravity can play a cruel joke. The installation process itself is not entirely complicated, following the instructions, it can be performed by any amateur builder. So, let's look at everything in stages:

That's all, now all the same needs to be done around the entire perimeter.

The roof drainage system is ready. Most importantly, you spent a minimum of money on its purchase, since you made it yourself.

You can make a homemade grid from building mesh to protect the system from foliage. It will take a number of meters of mesh, which must be cut into strips of such a width that, by folding it into a cylinder, you can get a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the gutter pipe itself. Make such cylinders and place them in the gutters, fixing them securely there. This will protect the structure from all kinds of debris.

Advantages of a drain from sewer pipes

Why did we consider a design that is made of plastic pipes? There are several reasons for this. One of them is that it is easiest to do it yourself. As you yourself noticed, there are no special difficulties during assembly, and the process itself is quite simple. The plastic system has several advantages:

Low price. If your funds are limited, this is perfect option For you. Since the material and everything additional elements they cost a little, and no one will have to pay for the work, you can afford it.
Large range of goods. AT construction stores you can buy pipes different diameter and colors, fittings, elbows and fasteners.
Light weight. Thanks to this, you can easily transport pipes, and, more importantly, install them in their places. You can do all the work yourself, without the help of friends or relatives (this will allow you to do without the magician).
Plastic is easy to work with. Pipes are easy to cut with a grinder or a hand saw. Everything cuts like butter. So special efforts to cut the pipe in half, you do not have to apply.
Sewer pipes do not corrode, are resistant to temperature fluctuations and ultraviolet rays.

If you have any additional questions, ask them below in the comments to the article. If you have already made such a drain system, share your experience: how long has it served you, were there any problems during installation or during operation, what can you advise inexperienced craftsmen.

Owners country houses often you have to learn the wisdom of how to make a cesspool. This design solves the problem of wastewater disposal in places where there is no public sewerage.

Sanitary regulations require that the facility for wastewater be located:

1 or more meters from the fence separating neighboring land plots;
12 meters (not closer) from a residential building;
30 meters from the source of water intake (if you plan to build a pit without a bottom with your own hands).

Waste facility

Competent calculation geometric parameters structures for collecting wastewater are made taking into account the following characteristics:

The number of people using water in the house all year round. One person consumes up to 180 liters of fluid per day. If 3 people live in the house, it is recommended to build a drain pit of 18 or more cubic meters.
distance between top sewage facility and the ground surface. This value should be at least 1 m. If you equip the pit without taking this requirement into account, the likelihood of sewage flowing beyond the cesspool increases, which will lead to soil poisoning and an unpleasant odor on your site.
Soil type. When rocks lie in the ground that do not pass water well, the volume of the sewer pit is taken such that it is higher than the monthly norm of wastewater. If the soil passes water without problems, the volume is taken by about 40% of the amount of wastewater. This is important to know for those who want to learn how to make a cesspool.

Important pro tip! Do not make a cesspool more than 3 m deep. As it fills up, you will have to call in sewers to pump out sewage. Efficient removal waste is just provided at a depth of up to 3 m.

If about 1 cubic meter of waste flows into the pit per day, it is quite possible to equip it in the simplest way - dig a small pit in the ground, coat its walls with clay and further strengthen wooden planks. Such structures were widely used in the past. They are built with their own hands and in our days.

It is clear that these types of pits do not meet the requirements of sanitary services. It is quite possible that you will even be issued an administrative penalty if you decide to build such an elementary structure. This, of course, no one needs. It is better to equip a normal cesspool that will effectively cope with the tasks assigned to it. These include two types of structures:

Sealed tanks (pits with a bottom).
Absorbent structures without a bottom.

Waste facility

With your own hands, it is easiest to make the second holes. In them, drains (their liquid part) are filtered when passing through pieces of brick, gravel, which are poured at the bottom of the pit. Then the wastewater goes into the ground. This system is easy to install. In addition, bottomless pits are rarely cleaned due to (partial) water infiltration into the soil.

Absorbing structures are usually equipped when the volume of effluents is relatively small. Such cesspools are good for houses where there are no washing and dishwasher units, bathtubs and so on.

In other cases, it is recommended to mount sealed tanks. They are containers of a closed type, from which drains do not fall into the ground. Such tanks are built from gas silicate and concrete products, plastic, brick. The disadvantage of these pits is the need to frequently call vacuum trucks to pump out waste from a closed container, the advantage is the complete absence of unpleasant “aromas”.

We build a drain structure with our own hands - step by step instructions

We figure out how to properly make a cesspool. All work is best done according to the following scheme:

Dig a pit with the required dimensions. This operation will go quickly if you hire an excavator. But the cost of renting special equipment is high. Therefore, you can dig a hole by hand using a shovel.
Leave about one and a half cubic meters of soil (we will use it to backfill the cesspool after completion of all work), and take out the rest of the earth. The fertile top layer of soil can be poured into the garden.
Concrete the bottom of the pit, wait 10-12 days until the mixture becomes as strong as possible. Concrete may or may not be used. But experts advise spending their time and energy on arranging such a bottom.
Lay out the walls with bricks. Masonry is allowed to be made of not very high quality - it will be hidden from prying eyes, the main thing is that it reliably restrains the soil from shedding. The corners of the masonry must be tied up, and the bricks should be mounted in a checkerboard pattern. So the liquid part of the effluent will be more efficiently sucked into the ground.

On the masonry made, you need to install a reliable overlap. This is done by hand like this:

From all sides of the brickwork you dig in the ground (about 0.2 m).
Do either from professional sheets.
Mount the reinforcing frame. Tie the rods with wire, optimal distance between structural elements - 10–15 cm.
Fill the floor with concrete. It is advisable to bayonet the supplied mixture with a shovel, then the reinforcing cage will be well filled with mortar.
Wait about a month for the floor to harden.
Remove the formwork supports, lay out its walls with ordinary bricks, plaster them from the outside. Additionally, you can treat the walls with bitumen so that moisture from the atmosphere does not get into the pit.
You cover the do-it-yourself structure above the hatch with earth, tamp the soil, level it.

So we figured out how to properly make a cesspool. Note that you do not need to own any special skills to perform such an operation with your own hands. The whole procedure is quite simple, and its high labor costs are fully offset by the low cost of construction.

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