Cabbage pests and the fight against them folk remedies. We are at war with the cabbage bug Bugs on cabbage control measures

Cabbage of all kinds, during the entire growing season, is damaged insect pests. Cabbage pests pose the greatest danger in the early stages of development. Barely emerged seedlings are attacked by cruciferous fleas, and the root system suffers from insatiable larvae, caterpillars and cabbage flies. Grown plants attack: cabbage scoops, aphids, whites, etc. The massive impact of insect pests on cabbage plantings leads to a decrease in yield, or even to the death of plants. This article describes the most dangerous insect pests for cabbage and measures to combat them.

cabbage aphid

The cabbage aphid is a small, sucking insect.

Wingless parthenogenetic female aphids 1.9-2.3 mm long, ovoid, body covered with whitish-gray wax dust.

The winged female is 2.15 mm long, the color of the abdomen is yellowish, the head and chest are brown.

Female cabbage aphid laying eggs, 1.7 mm long, wingless.

Eggs are black, shiny, elongated oval.

Cabbage aphid harms all cruciferous crops, including cabbage. It is distributed everywhere, except for the regions of the Far North. In autumn, aphids lay their eggs on cabbage stumps left in the garden, on stumps left for planting as seed plants, weeds, where they overwinter. In the spring, larvae emerge from the eggs, they develop into wingless females that live on weeds and cabbage seeds.

Wingless female cabbage aphids give birth to live larvae without fertilization. Later, together with wingless ones, winged female aphids appear, moving to cabbage and other crops of the cruciferous family. Winged aphids also give birth to live larvae. During the summer, several generations of aphids are born.

Adult aphids and larvae feed on plant sap, piercing the leaves with their proboscis and sucking the plant sap through it. Leaves damaged by aphids become discolored and curled. In testes, shoots become bluish-pink in color, seeds do not form.

In autumn, a generation of aphids appears, which is called "sexual" - females and winged males. Females lay 2-4 eggs on the lower leaves of cabbage, weeds, stumps.

Prevention:

be sure to remove the stumps from the garden, put them in heaps, and in the spring, when they dry out, burn them;
destroy cruciferous weeds;
plant carrot seeds, dill and other umbrella crops in cabbage plantings - to attract beneficial insects that destroy aphids (lacewing, ladybugs, hoverflies, etc.).

Control measures:

when aphids appear, wipe the leaves with a cloth dipped in soapy water;
spray with infusions of tobacco, garlic, onions, tomato or potato tops with the addition of soap, for better adhesion;
in case of severe damage, use chemicals: Decis (0.7 g per 10 liters of water), Karbofos (60 g per 10 liters of water), Spark - Double Effect (1 tablet per 10 liters of water). Consumption of solutions - 1 liter per 10 square meters. meters.

Cruciferous flea (cabbage)

The cabbage flea is the most common and dangerous pest of cabbage seedlings and other crops from the cruciferous family. These are small, 2-3 mm long, jumping bugs. There are several types of cruciferous flea.

Notched flea- 1.8 mm long., has yellow stripes on the elytra, a black strip along the seam of the elytra, tapering in front and behind with an arc.

Light-footed flea- 2.5-3.5 mm long., has yellow stripes on the elytra, yellow legs and legs. Head and pronotum black metallic sheen.

Wavy flea- 2-2.8 mm long, black with yellow stripes on the elytra.

Black flea And southern cruciferous flea- 1.8-3 mm long, black or black with a green metallic sheen.

Blue flea- 2.2-2.8 mm long, blue-green.

Flea eggs are oblong-oval, 0.3-0.4 mm long, translucent, light brown. yellow color.

Larvae are thin, long, light yellow in color, have 3 pairs of legs.

The most common wavy flea (in middle lane, northern and western regions of Russia), the light-footed flea is slightly less common. The notched flea is distributed mainly on Far East and in Yakutia. In the south of Russia and in the chernozem zone, black and southern cruciferous fleas predominate, but other types of fleas are also common.

The beetles overwinter in the surface layer of the soil, under fallen leaves, or in autumn they hide in the cracks of greenhouses and hotbeds. Beetles wake up in early spring, as soon as the soil thaws. While there are no seedlings in the beds, adult beetles feed on cruciferous weeds (colza, shepherd's purse, etc.), and switch to them with the emergence of seedlings. The cotyledon leaves are especially severely damaged, gnawing holes in them, causing the leaves to dry out and the plants to die.

In the light-footed cruciferous flea, not only adults are dangerous, but also larvae - they gnaw out passages on the leaves (mining them). The most voracious fleas are on hot sunny days.

Prevention:

during the emergence of shoots, sprinkle the beds river sand, 1 cm layer - this technique reduces the damage to seedlings by fleas;
sow cabbage and plant in a garden bed in more early dates. By the time the fleas appear, the cabbage leaves will become coarser and the fleas will not be able to do much harm to the plants;
be sure to weed out the weeds of the cruciferous family, on which fleas breed;
water plantings abundantly and shade in hot weather.

Control measures:

when pests appear: sprinkle plants with ash, fluffy lime, tobacco dust mixed with lime, phosphate rock - this will temporarily scare away the pest;
in case of severe damage to plants by a cabbage flea, spray the plants with one of the preparations: Aktelik (2 ml per 0.7 liters of water), Bankol (5-7 grams per 10 liters of water), Karate (1 ml per 10 liters of water), the consumption of the solution is 0.5-1 liters. per 10 sq. m. "Decis" (0.7 g per 10 liters of water), consumption - 1 liter. for 20 sq. m.

Cabbage leaf beetle

Cabbage leaf beetle - a beetle, 3-4.5 mm long., The body shape is ovoid, the color is dark green with a metallic sheen. Elytra with 8 punctate, longitudinal grooves.

Eggs - 0.5 mm long, yellow, oblong-oval.

The larvae are 5.5 mm long, dirty yellow, with four rows of black tubercles, the head is black, and there are 3 pairs of legs on the body.

The cabbage leaf beetle is distributed throughout Russia. The beetle is moisture-loving, for the development of eggs, larvae and pupae you need high humidity, as a result of this, the beetle brings especially great harm in waterlogged areas. Beetles overwinter in the soil, under lumps of manure, plant debris. With the onset of warm days, they crawl out of shelters.

Females of the cabbage leaf beetle lay their eggs in pits gnawed in the pulp of the leaves and fill them with secretions, protecting them from drying out. The larvae that appear after 10-12 days feed on cabbage leaves, scraping off the skin from them. After another three weeks, the larvae burrow into the ground and pupate. After 8-12 days, beetles emerge from the pupa.

Larvae and beetles of the cabbage leaf beetle damage cabbage, swede, radish, turnip, radish, horseradish, eating large through holes in the leaves or making notches on the leaf edge.

Prevention:

destruction of cruciferous weeds (colza, shepherd's purse, etc.);
cleaning of plant residues and debris;
daily pollination of plantings with tobacco dust mixed with ash or slaked lime in equal proportions to repel beetles. Pollination is carried out by morning dew. Consumption - 20-30 gr. per 1 sq. m.

Control measures:

on small areas manual collection of beetles is possible, shaking them into special scoops;
laying glue traps between plants;
in case of mass spread of pests, apply spraying with chemicals: "Karate", "Decis", "Aktara", "BI-58", "Engio", "Aktelik".

cruciferous bugs

Cruciferous bugs include: rapeseed bug, cabbage (decorated) bug, cruciferous mustard bug, northern cruciferous bug, Central Asian bug.

cabbage bug- 9-10 mm long, black head, 6 black spots on the red pronotum, a pattern of red and black spots and stripes on the elytra and scutellum. The upper side of the abdomen is red, except for the last segments - they are black.

rapeseed bug- 5.5 mm long, shiny, blue or green, with red or whitish spots and stripes. In the middle of the back there is a red or whitish stripe, expanding behind.

northern bug- 5-7.5 mm long. The outer part of the leathery part of the elytra is red, on the body there is a pattern of red and black stripes and spots. On the scutellum, at the base, a semicircular black spot and 2 small black spots near the apex. The abdomen is red with three rows of black spots.

Siberian bug. Outer part of elytra red or yellowish white color, pronotum with 6 greenish-black spots. The lateral sides of the scutellum are bordered by stripes of red or yellowish-white color, there are 2 spots on the elytra. Bedbug eggs are barrel-shaped. In the cabbage bug, the eggs are grayish with a dark ring and a black dot, 1 mm long. The rapeseed bug has greenish-yellow eggs, 0.6-0.8 mm long. Larvae differ from adults in their more rounded shape and lack of wings.

mustard bug- 7-8.5 mm long., Has a convex body, the upper side of the abdomen is black. Bed bugs overwinter under moss, under fallen leaves, in gardens and near trees. They come out of shelters early in spring, at first they live on various weeds. When shoots of cabbage or other plants of the cruciferous family appear, they switch to them. Bed bugs pierce the skin of the leaves with their proboscis and suck out the juice. A light spot appears at the puncture site. With a large damage, the leaves turn yellow and die, the leaves wither, the death of plants is possible. In testes damaged by bugs, ovaries and flowers fall off. Bedbugs lay eggs on leaves, 12 pieces in 2 rows. The hatched larvae also feed on plant sap. During the season, 2-3 generations can grow.

Prevention:

destruction of weeds from the cruciferous family;
destruction of plant residues;
early planting of seedlings;
timely top dressing (help resist damage by bedbugs).

Control measures:

If there are more than two bugs on the plant, spray with one of chemicals: Aktelik (2 ml diluted in 0.7 liters of water), Phosbecid (5 ml per 5 liters of water), Aktara (1.2 g per 10 liters of water), Engio "(3.6 ml per 10 liters of water), "Match" (4 ml per 5 liters of water).

cabbage scoop

Cabbage scoop - butterfly, wingspan 50 mm., Brown-gray. On the front wings there are 2 dark transverse stripes and a wavy light line along the edge of the wings, 2 spots at the front edge and kidney-shaped spots with 2 white dots. The hindwings are dark grey.

The eggs of the cabbage scoop are hemispherical with radial ribs on the surface. Only the eggs laid are white, turning bluish-gray as they mature.

Newly hatched caterpillars are green, adults are greenish or brown-brown with a yellowish stripe on the sides.

The cabbage scoop is distributed everywhere, except for the regions of the Far North. Damages plantings of cabbage, onions, beets, peas and other plants. The cabbage scoop overwinters in the pupal stage. Butterflies fly out with the onset of heat, in the middle lane - in the first decade of June. The cabbage scoop is a nocturnal butterfly and it is difficult to notice it during the day, it hides under clods of earth, under leaves.

The cabbage scoop lays its eggs on the underside of the cabbage leaf, in groups of 10-40, in total it can lay 600-700 eggs. After 5-12 days, after laying, caterpillars appear, which at first feed on the pulp of the leaves in the same place where they hatched, then spread over the plant. Caterpillars gnaw holes in the leaves, adult caterpillars can penetrate the head of cabbage, gnawing passages in it. A caterpillar that has climbed into a head of cabbage cannot be etched out from there, and it will render it unusable, gnawing through passages and littering it with excrement.

Cabbage is exposed to pest attacks and various diseases throughout the growing season. Plants at an early stage of development are especially vulnerable. From the beginning of spring, cabbage leaves are destroyed by cruciferous flea, turnip white, cabbage moth, A root system damage the larvae of cabbage flies. To save the harvest, gardeners are struggling with cabbage pests, How folk methods as well as modern means.

Among all the "misfortunes" that lie in wait for cabbage from the beginning of germination to ripening, it is worth highlighting a few of the most common.

Flea cabbage (cruciferous)

This is the main enemy of all cruciferous crops, including cabbage. Cabbage fleas are small jumping beetles 2-3 mm long, which live in the upper layers of the soil in winter, and wake up immediately after the soil thaws in spring. They like to eat cabbage leaves, especially cotyledons in newly planted sprouts, gnawing small holes in them. Damaged plants dry out and die, which can lead to significant yield loss.

Fleas are especially active in hot sunny weather, as these are optimal conditions for their reproduction. During such periods, these insects can destroy all seedlings planted on the ground in just a few days. large areas.

Fighting methods

To prevent the appearance of a cruciferous flea, you need to regularly and carefully weed cabbage weeds: field yarutka, sverbig, shepherd's purse, chickweed, beetroot, etc. It is these plants that they begin to eat after hibernation, after which they switch to cabbage.

In especially hot weather, the beds on which the sprouts are planted are recommended to be covered with a non-woven, breathable material, such as agrotex or agril. Some gardeners make special "collars" that raise cabbage leaves above the ground, preventing insects from reaching them.

When fleas appear, you can fight them with folk methods or with the help of chemicals. In the first case, pests are driven out by sprinkling vegetables with ash, slaked lime and tobacco dust. Glue traps are also placed between the rows.

Chemical preparations allow you to achieve a better result, but they are less harmless than folk remedies. Cabbage is sprayed with a solution of "Aclectic", "Bankola", "Bi-58" and other products that are sold in specialized stores.

cabbage aphid

Also one of the most dangerous. These are small insects no more than 2 mm in length, which suck the juice from cabbage leaves, damaging them and significantly slowing down the development of plants. The aphid hibernates in the egg phase in cabbage weeds and unharvested stumps, and wakes up in the spring as a larva.

This insect develops very quickly, and after transformation into a female, it gives birth to new larvae. Moreover, aphids can be both wingless and winged, therefore, if this pest is present on one plant, the likelihood of infecting the rest is high.

With a mass defeat of cabbage by aphids, its leaves can be completely covered with larvae that feed on cabbage juice. As a result, the plant becomes discolored, begins to lag behind in growth, the leaves often curl and acquire a bluish-pink hue.

Fighting methods

To prevent the appearance of aphids, it is necessary in the fall after harvesting the cabbage to remove all the stumps and weeds, and burn them after drying. It is recommended to plow the land deeply, and cultivate it in the spring.

To destroy aphids, you can attract beneficial insects (hoverfly flies, "lady" beetles, aphidius riders), for which dill, carrot seeds and other umbrella crops are sown near cabbage. You can also fight pests with other folk methods, in particular, spray plants with infusions and decoctions of tobacco, tomato tops, henbane, onions, garlic, etc. When aphids are detected, the affected cabbage leaves are also wiped with a cloth dipped in soapy water.

You can also eliminate aphids with the help of chemicals: Antio, Karbofos, Bi-58 new, etc.

cruciferous bugs

These are small insects 5-10 mm long with a variegated color. They winter in gardens, in weed thickets, ravines, forest floor, and wake up in the spring and begin to feed on cabbage weeds, after which they switch to cabbage seedlings. They begin to breed in early summer, when the females lay eggs, from which larvae appear, transforming into adults.

Cabbage is harmed by both larvae and adult bugs. They pierce the leaves, sucking out the juice from them, as a result of which entire sections of the plant die off, turning into yellow spots. From this big plants slow down in development, and young seedlings twist, and sometimes die.

Fighting methods

You can prevent the appearance of bedbugs by removing all plant debris, including weeds and stumps, after harvesting the cabbage. If pests, nevertheless, have appeared, you can get rid of them using chemical agents (Aktellik, Phosbecid, etc.).

cabbage leaf beetle

Cabbage leaf beetles are small beetles no more than 3-4.5 mm long, which are egg-shaped and have a dark green metallic tint. They feed on cabbage leaves, gnawing large through holes in them or eating out notches along the edges.

These insects winter in the ground under the remains of vegetation, manure, etc., and in May they wake up and begin to multiply. Cabbage leaf beetles often affect already grown vegetables, but they can also damage seedlings. As a result of their attacks, cabbage grows more slowly, and sometimes the plants die altogether.

Fighting methods

In order to prevent the mass appearance of these cabbage pests, you need to regularly eliminate cabbage weeds, and after harvesting the cabbage, remove all remnants of vegetation that can serve as a wintering place for leaf beetles.

Among the people, such beetles are fought by daily pollination of cabbage with tobacco dust, sometimes mixed with slaked lime or ash. As in the case of a flea, glue traps can be placed near the plants.

As for chemicals, they are the same as for the elimination of cabbage fleas: Bankol, Aktellik, Bi-58, Decis, etc. Preparations must be dissolved in water in the proportions indicated in the instructions for them.

The cabbage bug is always ready to eat not only cabbage of various varieties, but also rutabagas, turnips, radishes, radishes and various wild cabbage plants. In hot and dry weather, the harmfulness of cabbage bugs increases markedly. In a fairly short time, they can destroy great amount young shoots.

Getting to know the pest

The cabbage bug is the owner of a rather flat body. The red anterior dorsum with several black spots on the elytra and scutellum looks very elegant. The belly of the pest is also red on top, with black last segments.

Wintering of immature cabbage bugs takes place under fallen leaves in forest belts, on forest edges, in parks and gardens, as well as on road shoulders and on the slopes of beams. They usually leave wintering places in April-May, additionally feeding on various cabbage weeds. As soon as young shoots of cabbage crops appear or seedlings are planted, the enemies will immediately move to them. Females lay eggs mainly in 12 pieces, often in two rows. Egg placement occurs mainly on the undersides of leaves. The total fecundity of females is about 300 eggs.

The main harm is caused by larvae and adults - they pierce the skin of flowering shoots and leaves with their proboscises, after which they suck the juice out of them. The places of such punctures are characterized by the formation of light spots, plant tissues die and fall out, resulting in holes irregular shape. If the testes are damaged, then the flowers, along with the ovaries, fall off, and the quality of the seeds deteriorates significantly.

Early planting of seedlings and following the rules of agricultural technology help to increase the resistance of crops to damage by uninvited guests. Cabbage weeds should be regularly destroyed, as pests often feed on them. Fertilizers must always be applied in a timely manner and in sufficient quantities. Plant residues, especially cruciferous ones, must be removed at the end of the harvest.

Before the start of summer, repellents are used for bedbugs - the vegetation around the neck is sprinkled with tobacco mixed with sand or earth (in a ratio of 1: 1), creolin with fluffy lime (1: 20) or naphthalene mixed with ash or sand (5: 1). Decoctions of potato tops, chamomile or onion husks can also help scare away the enemy.

You can moisten the broken branches of shrubs with kerosene or creolin, and then stick them near the beds. And if you moisten pieces of paper with cabbage juice and place them on the fence, this will help divert a certain part of the cabbage bugs from the beds.

Spraying with soapy water will also do a good job (for 10 liters of water - 300 g of laundry soap or 400 g of liquid soap).

If there are two or more bugs per plant, then they start spraying with insecticides. A good effect can be achieved by spraying the plants with Aktellik (0.15%). You can also use insecticides such as Match, Belofos, Engio, Fosbecid and others.

Vegetables are popular garden plants. Like any crop, cabbage also requires attention when growing. Planting and care, pest control are the daily care of the gardener on the site.

In the process of growing garden crops, the gardener encounters insects that harm plants. Cabbage pests damage crops throughout their growth, but they are most dangerous in the very early period of development. This is due to the fact that young plants have tender, juicy leaves that attract insects, but the seedlings themselves are still weak to withstand such an onslaught. Pest control of cabbage is the main task of the gardener if he wants to get a good harvest as a result of his labors.

Planting cabbage and caring for it

Planting and caring for cabbage are carried out as follows:

Cultivation of cabbage seedlings. cabbage is light-loving plant, she needs a large number of moisture and temperature 21°C. Optimal time for planting seeds is the end of April, and cabbage is planted in open ground in early June. For planting seedlings, a special soil mixture is prepared, which consists of half the amount of manure and half of the garden soil. Coarse-grained sand can be added to such a soil mixture, pine needles, it will be very useful to add 25 grams of fertilizers to a bucket of such soil, such as Foskamide or Nitrofoska. The thickness of the soil for planting should be at least 12 cm. The distance between the rows of seedlings is about 12 cm, in the row between plants - about 1 cm. Two weeks after germination, the seedlings are thinned out so that about 5 cm remains between the seedlings. Or strong seedlings are selected and plant them in separate pots with a diameter of 7 cm.
The seedling is ready for planting when it has 6 true leaves. The planting pattern is on average 60x60, that is, approximately three sprouts per 1 square meter. Seedlings are planted in open ground in the evening or in cloudy weather. The earth around the sprout is compressed and well watered, the earth in the aisles is carefully loosened. Water seedlings as needed general recommendations are as follows: before the formation of a head of 3 liters per square meter, and after - five liters per square meter. After a couple of weeks, instead of the missing or infected sprouts, stepping back 10 cm from the old hole, fresh ones are planted.
At poor growth cabbage should be fed mineral fertilizer or a solution of fermented mullein, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:6, and one tablespoon of "Foscamida" or "Nitrophoska" is diluted in 10 liters of water. Water each plant, having spent half a liter of solution on it. If the soil is very dry, then after fertilizers add the same amount of plain water. After that, the cabbage is spudded, this is important in the care, as it leads to the formation of adventitious roots. For the first time, they spud three weeks after landing with moist soil, and the second - a month after that. During the whole season, up to five loosenings are carried out and weed three times before watering or rainfall.

Dangerous cruciferous flea

One of the most dangerous pests for young shoots of cabbage and other crops of this species is the cruciferous flea. It is a small jumping beetle with a body length of about three millimeters.

After the winter is over, this pest can hide surface layer soils, fallen leaves, greenhouse and greenhouse gaps. Beetles wake up in early spring during the settling of the soil. First, adult insects eat cabbage weeds, and then they begin to eat cabbage vegetables, freshly planted seedlings. They damage mainly young leaves of plants. Beetles gnaw small holes on the leaves, which leads to the fact that the leaves dry out, the plant dies.

Especially important is the fight against cabbage pests - cruciferous fleas - in hot spring weather, when there are too many of them. At this time, the pest is able to destroy absolutely all seedlings of planted seedlings over large areas, as it can eat up a volume three times its weight.

Harmful cabbage aphid

No less dangerous pest for cabbage is cabbage aphid. It is a very small insect with a length of two millimeters of a gray-white hue. Aphids reproduce in a pathogenetic way, laying small elongated eggs without fertilization, which overwinter on stalks, weeds, and cabbage seed plants. In spring, larvae appear, which develop into wingless insects, which again give birth to larvae. After that, females with wings appear, which in the middle of summer move to the cabbage from weeds and begin to multiply there, each giving 40 larvae.

When aphids multiply massively, the leaves of cabbage crops are completely covered with aphids that suck out the juice and discolor the leaves. At the same time, the latter curl up, and the plant stops growing and producing seeds. The fight against pests of cabbage - aphids - is more effective before the onset of July, when winged individuals move.

Cruciferous bug pest

Common pests of cabbage are cruciferous bugs. The adult of this insect has a body length of 5 to 10 mm. Bed bugs overwinter in weed thickets, heaps of fallen leaves, in vegetable gardens. In mid-spring, they begin to eat cabbage leaf weeds and early cabbage crops. And with the beginning of summer, female bedbugs lay eggs, from which, after a couple of weeks, larvae are born that grow in a month.

Plants are harmed by both larvae and adult insects. They pierce the skin of the culture and suck the juice from the leaves. Droplets of bug saliva containing enzymes that kill leaf cells remain in the leaf wound. The leaves curl up and die. Mature plants begin to grow poorly, so cabbage pest control must be carried out to get a good harvest.

cabbage leaf beetle

Almost throughout the area, such a pest as the cabbage leaf beetle is widespread. It is a small five-millimeter beetle, shiny, egg-shaped.

The insect damages the leaves by eating into them big holes. Insects hibernate in the soil, hidden by the warm remains of plants, and crawl out in the spring. In the eaten pulp of foliage, the female leaf beetle lays eggs, from which larvae appear after a couple of weeks. They also feed on the skin of the leaf. After about 3 weeks, the larvae descend to the ground and pupate, and after 10 days, beetles are born from the pupa.

Cabbage scoop and cabbage secretive proboscis

Another cabbage pest is the cabbage scoop. An adult insect is a nocturnal butterfly grey-brown up to 5 cm in size. At the end of spring, females lay eggs, from which, after three weeks, thick, naked, green sixteen-legged caterpillars 5 cm long are born and develop for 2 months. It is the caterpillars that cause harm to plants - they scrape the leaves from the underside, and then spread, and gnaw holes in them. Toward the end of summer, caterpillars begin to eat heads of cabbage. Therefore, the processing of cabbage from caterpillars is the main method of dealing with the cabbage scoop.

Another common cabbage pest is the stem cabbage stalker. It is a three-millimeter black beetle. Adult individuals hibernate under plant debris, they do not particularly harm plants. The larvae of this insect, which appear in the spring from eggs, are of great danger. They gnaw leaves and petioles, reach to the very root. The foliage begins to turn yellow, the plants stop growing and die.

Cabbage pest control measures

The fight against pests of cabbage without chemistry is primarily as follows:

In order to prevent pests from appearing en masse, you need to regularly weed and remove weeds.
In dry sunny weather, crops of seedlings or seedlings are covered with air-permeable non-woven materials.
It is also useful to remove and burn plant waste after harvesting and dig the soil well in the fall.

If plants are affected in the initial stages, then cabbage pests are being combated with folk remedies. If they have already bred very strongly, one should begin to fight them with chemical methods, which is a less harmless way.

There are also biological methods of control, which consist in the fact that insects that are enemies of pests are attracted to the planting of cabbage crops.

Manual pest control also helps: this can be catching butterflies for sweet food or on fire, as well as manual collection of caterpillars and pest eggs.

Cauliflower pests and their control are similar and no different from other species.

Chemicals for pest control

Often all the efforts of gardeners to combat pests do not give the desired results. The weather also plays a role in this: if there are dry hot days, harmful insects develop faster. At the same time, they also eat plants more intensively. In these cases, it is necessary to look for more effective methods.

Good results in pest control give chemical agents. Cabbage pest control agents contain the following arsenal:

The drug "Actellik". It is used in the proportion of 20 ml per 10 liters of water, for spraying 10 square meters. one liter of solution is required.
"Bancol" is a biological product obtained from marine annelids, used similarly to the first remedy.
On big production areas cabbage processing is effectively carried out using the preparations "Decis", BI-58, "Karate".
Such strong chemicals as "Antio", "Karbofos", "Decis Extra", "Rovikurt" are recommended only for critical infection of plants with pests.
Also, with a strong enough attack harmful insects microbiological preparations "Bitoxibacillin", "Lepidocid", "Dipel" are used.
To fight the prolific harmful insects use such chemicals as "Bazudin", "Zeta", "Biorin", "Karbofos", "Kinmiks", "Phosbecid", "Diazinon", "Fitoverm", "Intavir".

Cabbage pest control folk remedies

Folk methods of pest control are very popular. This is due primarily to the fact that cabbage pest control preparations can be made independently, they are harmless, inexpensive, and their ingredients are readily available.

Many amateur gardeners use chemicals only as a last resort, when all other methods no longer give effective results. But chemistry is harmful to plants, and even more so to garden crops. Therefore, it is necessary to try hard to push the use of these substances as far as possible in time. In this case, the plants will already gain strength, coarsen and will no longer be so interesting to pests. And you need to try, applying folk ways struggle.

You can fight like this:

Effective pest control of cabbage with vinegar: a glass of 9% vinegar is diluted in 10 liters of water with the addition of 400 g of table salt, then cabbage is poured against leaf-eating pests with this solution.
To scare away fleas and beetles, you need to pollinate cabbage plants daily with tobacco dust. Or, for the same purpose, tobacco dust and ash or slaked lime are mixed in equal parts. For pollination in the early morning should take thirty grams of the drug per square meter.
They also set up sticky traps to catch fleas. To protect young seedlings, they can be covered with plastic bottle tops.
Processing cabbage from caterpillars is done by spraying with infusion of ash (2 cups) and liquid soap or tar shampoo (tablespoon) per ten liters of water, infused for a day. Or you can sprinkle the leaves with regular baking soda.
Also an effective remedy is the early planting of spring garlic, dill, mint. When their shoots appear, cabbage is planted. The smell of spices repels pests.
Harmful insects and pungent odors frighten, therefore, for watering ten liters of water, you can add fifteen drops of fir oil or sprinkle the leaves with an infusion of chicken droppings.
Effective pest control of cabbage with vinegar: a tablespoon of 70% vinegar is diluted in 10 liters of water and the plants are sprayed with this solution. The method helps against fleas and aphids.
As soon as the first heaps of aphids appear on the plants, the leaves must be wiped with a cloth, which should be abundantly saturated with a soap solution. For such a procedure, you can also use infusions and decoctions of tomato leaves, potatoes, henbane branches, tobacco, onion feathers or garlic cloves.
Against slugs and snails, cabbage is treated with ammonia: dilute 40 ml of alcohol in 6 liters of water and pour directly onto the leaves. Repeat the process ten minutes later.
Butterflies and beetles can be scared away by spraying infusions of onion husks, tomato tops.
To control pests, you can spread fresh nettles between cabbages or sprinkle with mustard powder.
Processing cabbage with ammonia can also be done as follows: dilute 10 mg of ammonia per 10 liters of water and pour this mixture over the ground under the cabbage when planting seedlings.

Biological control measures

Wasps living on the site or attracted to it can be of great benefit, because they feed the caterpillars to their offspring. You can attract them with the smell of diluted old jam, sweet compote or just sugar, which is sprinkled on cabbage.

Treatment of cabbage against underground pests that affect the roots (scoop larvae, cabbage fly, Maybug) can be carried out using black ants. In order for them to come, a sweet solution of jam is also left in a container under a withering bush.

Sowing in cabbage spices, you can attract lacewings, rider beetles, ladybugs by smell - these are good helpers in the fight against slugs, butterflies, aphids and fleas.

The eggs of the cabbage scoop are destroyed by the trichogram released into the cabbage.

The main cabbage pests are: cruciferous flea, cabbage butterfly larvae, slugs, as well as cabbage scoops, flies and aphids.

Processing cabbage from pests with folk remedies

Over a long period of pest control at home, many various ways how to deal with them without chemistry, consider some of them.

As a preventive measure, fragrant herbs are planted next to the cabbage, their aroma repels pests. Suitable for these purposes:

parsley,
cilantro,
rosemary,
dill.

Fragrant herbs attract beneficial insects for cabbage.

If you plant marigolds, nasturtium along the edges of the garden or next to it, this will not only decorate appearance garden, but also save the crop from the cabbage butterfly.

cruciferous flea

The cruciferous flea is a small black bug that leaves many holes in cabbage leaves, especially Beijing cabbage. It is important to regularly carry out prevention so as not to lose the crop.

Black flea recipes:

From the moment of landing in the ground, sprinkle cabbage after watering and rains wood ash, dry hot pepper or tobacco dust.
The flea cannot stand the smell of fir oil. When watering, 10 drops of oil are added to 10 liters of water.
Grind and dilute in 10 liters of water 3 chopped heads of medium-sized garlic, 100-120 g of tomato tops and 15 g of liquid soap. Pour the cabbage with the resulting solution.
Water the cabbage beds with water and vinegar: 0.25 ml per liter.

Photo of cabbage damaged by cruciferous flea

Caterpillars of the cabbage butterfly (cabbage white)

Here, it is the larvae of the butterfly that pose the main danger - they, emerging from the eggs, eat the head of cabbage and leaves. From this pest, several drugs should be used simultaneously.

Processing recipes:

Spraying with a solution with milkweed.
Boil 1 kg of tomato tops for 20 minutes in 3 liters of water. Allow to cool, infuse the decoction and treat the affected areas with it.
Add one of the components to 10 liters of water and spray the cabbage: vinegar - 0.25 ml, salt - 60 g or ammonia - 40 g.

Photo of cabbage and eggs damaged by caterpillars

Slugs

Very common pests not only of cabbage, but also of other plants. They should be given special attention, because. they are able to destroy the entire crop. Slugs are especially active at night and in wet weather.

Means recipes:

Dissolve 125 ml of vinegar or 160 g in 10 liters of water mustard powder water the cabbage with the resulting solution.
After the cabbage leaves have closed, it can be watered with 50 ° C water.
Mix tobacco dust with ash and sprinkle the grooves between the rows with this composition.
Spraying with tincture of hot pepper.
A simple and effective way is to sprinkle the plants with baking soda.

Photo of damaged plants and slug eggs

Caterpillars of cabbage scoops

These are caterpillars Green colour make through holes in the cabbage, which harms the growth of the plant.

Recipes for effective remedies:

Spraying the leaves with a soap solution - 0.5 kg of ash, 20 ml of liquid soap is diluted in 10 liters of water.
You can use various herbal infusions of celandine, burdock, dandelion or wormwood.
Processing the ground around the cabbage with a solution of 100 g of raw or 50 g of dry hot pepper, boiled in 1 liter of water. Infuse for two days, be sure to strain before the procedure. 500 g of tincture is diluted in 10 liters of water, 50 ml of liquid soap are added and the plants are treated.
For prevention, cabbage is treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and boric acid, 3 g per 10 liters of water.
You can use a bay leaf: the leaves of the laurel are boiled in water and the resulting broth is treated with cabbage 2 times a day until the problem is solved.

Photo of damaged cabbage leaves

cabbage fly

Pest larvae attack the stems and roots of cruciferous plants, if measures are not taken in time, the cabbage may die. The fly appears along with the flowering of lilacs in April-May.

A decoction of onion husks works well with a fly.
You can also use infusions of potatoes or wormwood - for 10 liters of water 3 kg of dry grass.
Once every 7 days, you can spray cabbage and the soil around it with infusion of burdock.
Salt solution: 250 g of salt per 10 liters of water.

pest-infested cabbage

cabbage aphid

Appears in early spring, aphids 2 mm in size and dark green in color. It is easy to find under the leaves.

Spraying with a solution of Coca-Cola. It is diluted with water in a ratio of 7:2 or 5:1 (depending on the degree of damage to the cabbage).
Watering with a solution of 30 g of mustard, 20 g of soap chips, ash and tobacco dust (300 g each).
It is allowed to use decoctions and infusions from the above herbs.
A mild soapy solution can be used to spray plants.

Photo of pests and damaged plant

Processing cabbage from pests with chemicals

Chemical means for pest control of cabbage are best used in extreme cases. The plant absorbs a lot of toxic substances, which will certainly affect human health.

For those who do not want to spend time preparing decoctions and infusions, here is a list of the most popular preparations for cabbage pests:

Spark;
Fury;
Kemifos;
Bankol.

Last for a long time was more popular because it caused less damage to the plant. To treat one hundred square meters of land with such a substance, a dose in the ratio of 4 ml of the drug per 5 liters of water is sufficient.

Reviews of gardeners

Many gardeners advise periodically watering the culture with a manganese solution from cabbage rot, and treating the seeds with a 12% formalin solution before planting.

Seedlings affected by rot should not be treated, it is better to get rid of it!

Some experienced gardeners process cabbage from white caterpillars with a solution of toothpaste. To do this, you can use the remains in a tube, which are infused in water for 2 hours, then sprayed on the plants.

Have a good harvest!

Cabbage pest control open field can drag on for the whole season and affect the yield. To prevent this from happening, we will talk about the treatment of cabbage from pests with folk remedies: vinegar, ammonia, valerian and herbs.

Cabbage has many enemies. Numerous aphids, ubiquitous caterpillars, an annoying cruciferous flea that can literally riddle cabbage leaves with small holes, as well as leisurely slugs, which, nevertheless, capture cabbage beds very quickly.

There are a huge number of modern insecticides that can cope with the invasion of pests. But if you are a supporter organic farming, these tools will not work for you. It is also worth abandoning industrial chemicals before harvesting. In this case, help folk remedies, many of which are quite effective in getting rid of cabbage pests in the open field or significantly reducing their number.

How to protect cabbage from pests

Treating cabbage for aphids, caterpillars, cruciferous flea, slugs, and cabbage fly can literally save your crop. But it is important not to forget that spraying the beds is strictly prohibited in sunny weather. It is best to do this late in the evening when the sun is no longer active.

Infusion of tobacco leaves

Used against cruciferous flea.

How to cook: 200 g of tobacco leaves pour 10 liters hot water and insist for 2-3 hours, then filter and add 1 tbsp. liquid soap. Plants are sprayed with this infusion.

Decoction of celery stalks

Used against cabbage fly.

How to cook: Grind 4 kg of celery stalks, pour 10 liters of water and boil for 30 minutes, then leave for another 2-3 hours. Before use, the infusion must be cooled, filtered and 10 liters of water added to each 2 liters of the composition. For better adhesion to the leaves of plants, 50 g of liquid soap or 100 ml of fresh low-fat milk can be added to the finished mixture.

Acetic solution

Used against cruciferous flea.

How to cook: to 10 liters of water add 1 cup of 9% table vinegar or 1 tbsp. vinegar essence, then test this composition on one plant. If everything is in order, you can spray all the cabbage beds.

Cruciferous fleas - how to fight and win

These hopping bugs can rob you of almost your entire cabbage and radish crop, and ruin the look of roses and lilies!

Vinegar treatment of cabbage for pests can be very effective, but it is important not to exceed the dosage so as not to harm your green pets.

Dandelion infusion

Used against cruciferous flea.

How to cook: 500 g of fresh dandelion leaves and roots are passed through a meat grinder, the resulting gruel is poured into 10 liters of water, mixed well, filtered and 1 tbsp is added. liquid soap.

How to use weeds after weeding

Destroying weeds takes a lot of effort and time, in return often rewarding us with pain in the muscles and lower back. Therefore, I want the work not to be in vain. In this article we will tell you how to use weeds for good.

ammonia solution

Used against bears, slugs, aphids, ants.

How to cook: 10 ml of ammonia must be dissolved in a bucket of water. To scare away a bear who likes to settle on cabbage beds, before planting seedlings, no more than 0.5 liters of solution can be added to each well. When foliar processing of cabbage with a solution of ammonia, you can add a little laundry soap to the composition.

Tomato-garlic infusion

Used against cruciferous flea, caterpillars.

How to cook: Pass 1 cup of leaves and stepsons of tomatoes and 1 cup of garlic through a meat grinder and dilute in 10 liters of water. Strain the resulting infusion and add 1 tbsp to it. liquid soap.

In order to scare away the cruciferous flea, you can plant spring garlic near the cabbage beds.

Infusion of pharmaceutical chamomile

Used against aphids, caterpillars.

How to cook: 1 kg of leaves and inflorescences is poured into 10 liters of hot water and infused for 12 hours. Then dilute with water in a ratio of 1:3 and add 40 g of soap for every 10 liters of infusion.

Potato broth

Used against cruciferous flea.

How to cook: 4 kg of potato tops pour 10 liters of water and boil for 15 minutes. The resulting broth before use should be cooled, strained and diluted with water 1:1.

Naphthalene with sand or ash

Used against cabbage fly.

How to cook: it is necessary to mix naphthalene with sand or ash in a ratio of 1: 5 and sprinkle the soil with this composition in a radius of 5 cm around the plants. For 1 sq.m of beds, you can use no more than 30 g of the mixture.

How to treat cabbage from pests

Cabbage is a common, but also very vulnerable crop to pests. How to secure it in the early stages of growth?

Infusion of common yarrow

Used against aphids, caterpillars.

How to cook: 800 g of stems, leaves and flowers are poured with boiling water and infused for half an hour. Subsequently, 10 liters of water are added and left for another 4 days. Before use, 40 g of soap can be added to the infusion.

Milk solution with iodine

Used against aphids.

How to cook: 500 ml of skimmed milk and 10 drops of iodine are dissolved in a bucket of water. The solution is sprayed with cabbage beds.

Hot pepper infusion

Used against slugs.

How to cook: Grind 100 g of hot pepper, pour a liter of water and insist for 2 days. Then strain and dilute each half cup of infusion with 10 liters of water, adding a spoonful of liquid soap.

Some gardeners claim that the use of such an infusion worsens taste qualities cabbage.

Valerian solution

Used against cruciferous flea.

How to cook: 1 bottle of valerian is dissolved in 3 liters of water. The processing of cabbage with valerian is carried out in dry cloudy weather.

Ash for plant nutrition and pest control

Used against cruciferous flea, cabbage fly, slugs.

There is an opinion that the cruciferous flea prefers to eat clean leaves. Therefore, it is possible to dust cabbage with a mixture of wood ash and slaked lime fluff (1: 1). Alternatively, a mixture of ash and tobacco dust (1:1) is also suitable.

Tobacco dust - use in the garden and garden

Tobacco dust has been used in horticulture and horticulture for a long time, and it has already managed to establish itself as an effective pest control agent, as well as an organic fertilizer.

Mulch against slugs

If you mulch the soil in the garden with spruce needles or dried nettles, then the slugs will not be able to get close to your crop, as their slippery body does not like thorns. You can also treat the beds with eggshells or fragments of shells. And if you scatter ash between the rows, you will not only block the approaches to the crop for slugs, but also feed the cabbage.

wood ash - natural fertilizer and pest control

Secrets of using ash as a fertilizer and an effective insecticide that is safe for human health.

Protecting cabbage from pests is a long, troublesome process, but extremely important if you are not ready to share your crop with insects. And finally, extremely original way fight against caterpillars from experienced gardeners. Some of them recommend placing sticks with hanging eggshells on cabbage beds. The calculation is simple: allegedly, butterflies from afar take the shell for their relatives and are in no hurry to lay eggs nearby, worrying that the offspring will not have enough food. A huge request to those who have already tried this method: share your experience of using eggshell in the comments to this article.

Cabbage is called the "third bread". This is one of the most popular vegetables in Russia, but not all gardeners grow it. One of the reasons is that pests also love this plant. I don’t want to deal with them with chemistry, collecting by hand is an unpleasant task. But if you take a little time to study this issue, understand: when and how to process cabbage, then chemistry will not cause harm, and folk remedies will be effective.

What insects harm cabbage, the principles of dealing with them

Every gardener who grows cabbage knows that cruciferous fleas are terrible for newly planted seedlings and young bushes. The cabbage fly also harms them. As soon as the cabbage grows up, white butterflies begin to circle over the beds. But this is during the day, and at night cabbage scoops are looking for places for laying eggs.

Beautiful moths or butterflies that fly to the light seem harmless, but for the most part they are pests

To study the habits of pests, which are quite primitive.
Choose effective means of prevention and control.
Apply these tools promptly.

To process cabbage you will need: a sprayer and good preparations, but there are many ways to do without them

At the very beginning of the fight against any pests, you need to understand that there are systemic and contact preparations. Systemic ones are absorbed by the plant and carried with its juices to all parts, including even the root. Pests will die as soon as they start eating processed cabbage. Contacts kill, falling directly on the insect, the plant itself does not become poisonous. It is to this group that folk remedies belong. To many, they seem ineffective, which is logical, because it is impossible to spray literally every flea, caterpillar or egg.

Recipes shared by gardeners are best used as a preventive measure. Namely, it is worth starting with it, without waiting for the problem to arise. If it didn’t work out, the deadlines were missed, insects have already settled on the cabbage and are actively eating it, then proceed to extreme measures - treatment with systemic insecticides.

Cruciferous fleas: what is the danger of a pest, prevention and control

Small (3-5 mm) black bugs are so named for their love of cruciferous plants and the ability to jump. They begin their vigorous activity when the air temperature rises to +15 ⁰C and above. The larvae live in the ground and feed on roots! Adults actively eat succulent leaves. First they settle on wild plants or green manure: rapeseed, mustard, shepherd's purse. With the appearance of a whole colony of radishes on the beds, they switch to it and can destroy it already at the cotyledon stage. The next delicacy we plant for cruciferous flea beetles is cabbage. Seedlings do not have time to take root, and all its leaves are already like a sieve. The worst thing is that pests can destroy it entirely.

Cruciferous fleas destroy plants already at the cotyledon stage

Cruciferous fleas - very annoying insects, they appear in my garden every year. But it is easy to deal with them, even if there are already a lot of them divorced. Therefore, I will not recommend many folk remedies against this pest. I will only tell you about my proven and very simple method:

As soon as my cabbage is on the site, I water it clean water and I dust the wet leaves and earth with ash, tobacco dust, or a mixture of them.
When this protection is washed away by rain or blown away by the wind, I renew it.
At the same time I give young plants good care so they grow faster. Fleas are no longer afraid of adult cabbage. I water, I loosen, I feed.

Against fleas, aphids, slugs, only fresh ash or stored for no more than one year in a closed container and in a dry room helps. If you have collected ashes from a fire or barbecue that has been in the rain, then you can use it only as a loosening material. Such ash no longer contains trace elements useful for plants and does not have an alkaline reaction dangerous for insects.

I think that on each garden plot you can get wood or vegetable ash. You don’t need anything else to fight fleas. The product works well without tobacco dust.

I used chemicals against these pests only once, but then I had a real armageddon. I got carried away with green manure and sowed the plot with rapeseed. He was covered with hordes of cruciferous fleas. When I cut down this green manure and planted cultivated plants, insects, of course, switched to them. They ate everything: even dill and tomatoes! It was then that literally all the crops had to be sprayed with Karbofos (60 g per 10 liters of water), a week later the treatment was repeated. I have been using this product for many years and it has never let me down. It was in early June, so the insecticide had already completely decomposed by the harvest. But I won't be doing any more experiments like this. It’s better not to invite pests from all over the area to your garden, but to fight a small local detachment with the help of ashes.

Video: cruciferous flea prevention - planting seedlings under bottles

Cabbage fly: how to detect and fight

Depending on the period of activity, spring and summer cabbage fly are distinguished. Spring flies out of the shelter during the flowering of birch and dandelion, massively lays eggs when lilacs bloom. The second wave begins at the end of June, but now the pest is only scary late cabbage, because, like fleas, it can greatly harm only young and still weak plants.

The cabbage fly is similar to the common fly, but has a slightly different color.

The insect looks like an ordinary fly, but slightly smaller in size - 6–8 mm. If you look closely, you can find stripes on the abdomen and back. Cabbage is harmed by larvae. The female lays her eggs on a stem near the ground. The born larvae begin to feed on the roots, gnaw through the stem, and penetrate into it. Unfortunately, pests are more often found already on the affected cabbage. Newly planted seedlings lie down like they've been broken or look lethargic, but watering doesn't help.

The whole fight comes down to prevention, and that's a very good thing. After all, the less chemicals we use when growing cabbage, the healthier this vegetable is. There are some tips:

Observe crop rotation. The larvae overwinter on cabbage beds, with the onset of heat they need to eat. By planting cabbage seedlings again in the same place, you will provide this food.
In autumn, after the temperature drops to +5 ... +10 ⁰C, dig up the ground. So you destroy the wintering grounds. Pests are already sleeping, they cannot hide and freeze out. Eat negative side- along with harmful insects, beneficial ones, for example, earthworms, appear on the surface and die.
Before planting cabbage, add Zemlin, Pochin, Thunder or another preparation against soil pests to the soil. They need to be distributed evenly over the surface of the beds and mixed with the top layer of the earth.
Immediately after planting the seedlings, put a sheet of thick paper on each plant, cutting a hole in it along the diameter of the stem. The leaf should fit snugly to the ground and the plant. The cabbage fly will not be able to get close to the place of laying eggs.

A simple and effective remedy for cabbage flies - a sheet of paper with a slot for the stem

Cabbage white: repellents and ways to deal with caterpillars

White butterflies are known even by people who are far from gardening and horticulture. The first generation flies out in the south - in April - early May, in other regions of Russia - in late May - early June. The second wave, more numerous, occurs at the end of July - August. IN southern regions the third generation also appears - immediately after the second and leads its life until October. The females lay their eggs on the underside of the lower leaves. The newly born caterpillars stick together, feed on the juicy pulp, scraping it from the leaf, then spread all over the head and gnaw through literally all the leaves.

White caterpillars are easy to spot, they are quite large and bright

This pest can also be dealt with by simple and harmless means. Butterflies fly to the smell of cabbage, but it is so subtle that it is easily interrupted by brighter aromas. Why not take advantage of this and mislead the pests.

Butterflies love to sit on beautiful and fragrant flowers, but other places are chosen for laying eggs

Folk remedies for scaring cabbages:

Plant marigolds or calendula around the perimeter of the cabbage bed in dense rows. But they will have time to bloom only by the second flight of butterflies, prepare differently for the first spring.
At the very beginning of the butterfly flight, sprinkle the ground under the cabbage with crushed odorous plants. Suitable: wormwood, tansy, mustard, garlic arrows, mint, oregano, lemon balm, etc. They can be picked and cut with scissors. We dry many herbs for tea for the winter. Leftovers are great for scaring off the first generation of butterflies in the spring.
If the herbs have not been dried, but the fresh ones have not yet grown, buy tobacco, tobacco dust or shag. These agents also have a deterrent effect.
Grind any of the above aromatic herbs or a mixture of them, fill with green mass liter glass jars or other similar container, fill with water and arrange on the cabbage bed. First, the smell of herbs will rise above the containers, interrupting the cabbage one. Then the contents will begin to ferment, an even stronger smell will appear, like from manure. After a week, dilute the slurry from the cans with water (1: 5), use it as a top dressing for any crop. Fill the jars again with odorous raw materials with water.
Dilute a solution of valerian from a pharmacy (50 ml) in 3 liters of water, spray on the leaves at the beginning of each butterfly flight period. The method is very effective, scoops, whites, cabbage flies do not fly up to the cabbage, but it is only suitable for areas that are not visited by cats. These valerian lovers will dig up the entire cultivated garden bed, break the cabbage.

Video: processing cabbage with a solution of valerian

Also at the beginning of the flight of butterflies, you can use the biological product - Fitoverm (5 ml per 1.25 l of water). The solution is absorbed into the leaves and stored in them for three weeks. Manufacturers call the drug harmless to humans, cabbage can be eaten within 3 days after processing.

If none of the above helped, or you missed the right moment, the whites got to your cabbage, the caterpillars appeared, then first try to collect the pests by hand yourself or call the household (husband, father, son, brother) for help. If the caterpillars were found on 1-2 heads of cabbage, this can and will be limited. With a strong defeat, when there are eggs and larvae of different ages, they have spread throughout the garden, after manual collection or instead of it, treat the cabbage with an insecticide (Karbofos, Decis, Commander, or others). Be sure to observe the waiting period during which you can not eat cabbage.

Cabbage leaves are very smooth, while spraying drops of solution from them roll down to the ground, without having time to be absorbed. So far, soap has been added for better adhesion. Today, modern products are produced - adhesives (Tandem, Liposam, etc.). They not only keep drops on the leaves, but also prevent the drug from being washed off by rain.

cabbage scoop

This butterfly flies only at night, looks like a large moth. The size with spread wings is about 5 cm. It is painted in nondescript shades of gray and brown. Two generations are born during the summer: egg laying for the first occurs from mid-May to the end of June, for the second - from mid-July to early September. These terms almost coincide with the periods of flight of whites, which means that you can fight with both butterflies at the same time. By a similar principle, eggs are laid - on the reverse side of the lower leaves.

Cabbage scoop looks like a large moth

Video: garlic tincture against caterpillars

Naked slugs: how to protect cabbage

Slugs overwinter in the egg stage. As soon as the earth thaws, mollusks, barely visible to the eye, begin to feed on plant residues in the earth. Already after 2 weeks, they can cause significant damage to seedlings or germinating seeds of cereals and legumes. The peak of activity in slugs occurs at the age of 1.5–2 months, when they begin to multiply. Having reached their normal size (3–5 cm), individuals feed on juicy fruits lying on the ground: cucumbers, zucchini, strawberries, etc. Of course, they like cabbage, under the leaves of which you can also hide from the sun.

A naked slug is not protected in any way from aggressive drugs, even dry air is harmful to it.

I fight slugs without any chemicals. The pest has a delicate body, unprotected by any coating. He loves dampness, cannot move on dry soil and prickly obstacles, and dies from contact with any burning and caustic agent. Here you have room for imagination. I sprinkle fallen pine needles around the heads. But not everyone has the opportunity to get them, so I will give a small list of effective remedies against slugs:

Water the cabbage in the morning, not in the evening. Slugs come out of their hiding places when the heat subsides, moving quickly on wet ground. Watering cabbage at night, you yourself unwittingly attract pests to it.
Powder the earth in the garden with dry mustard. It will effectively burn the mollusks, being both dry and wet.
Buy special nozzles from slugs. You can make them yourself from plastic bottles. It is a cylinder with an outward-curved upper edge. The slug crawls along such protection, at the very top it turns out to be hanging upside down, falls and, if desired, resumes its path or looks for another object for food.
Dig grooves 10-15 cm wide around the cabbage bed. Fill them with material that is difficult for slugs to move on: sawdust, coniferous litter, sand, ash, charcoal.

However, in a site located in a lowland or near a river, where there are often fogs, abundant dews, rainwater stagnates, simple means defenses may be ineffective. Use chemical baits Thunderstorm, Predator, etc. When buying a drug, pay attention to the composition. Metaldehyde, or products containing it, is considered the most effective against slugs.

Video: superphosphate and lime against slugs

I found in our store for gardeners a remedy for slugs and earth midges - ExtraFlor. In addition to pest control, it also has other beneficial effects: it protects plants from diseases, stimulates their growth, and increases productivity. I already wanted to buy, but the composition cooled me down - white mustard extract. That is, in fact, it is a well-known mustard. The package contains only 1 g, it is diluted with 1 liter warm water, price - 33 rubles. With no less success, you can use the usual powder from grocery store or mustard grown on own garden and dried. And if you have already sprinkled dry mustard or sprayed with infusion, it did not help, then you should not buy such a drug.

Aphids on cabbage

Pests settle in colonies, are easily detected on the surface of the leaf, but can also hide on its reverse side. In the middle lane they are active from May to September. During this period, up to 20 generations develop. Insects can destroy young cabbage completely, sucking out all the juices from it. Aphids have a small body (3–5 mm) of green color. There is no chitinous cover, which means that you can fight, like with slugs, by means of contact action.

Aphids settle on the leaf surface in large colonies.

Many gardeners against aphids use:

vinegar solution: 200 ml (9%) per 10 liters of water;
infusion of ash: 200 g per 10 liters of water;
soap solution: 100 g of household and 50 g of tar soap.

You can adopt plants or their fruits that can cause insect burns (pepper, garlic, mustard). When making your own recipes, first make a small amount of the solution and test it on the same leaf as the aphids. If the insects have died and there are no burns left on the cabbage, apply to the entire garden.

Video: preparation of ash-soap solution

There is a very simple way to deal with aphids in amateur areas. If there are few insects, found only on a few heads, then collect them with a sponge and soapy water. Try to do this so that the pests do not fall to the ground, and everyone ends up in a container with soapy water. Aphids are inactive, sit in groups, and cabbage leaves are large and smooth, so the procedure will not cause any difficulties. Do not wash off insects with water from a watering can or hose. They will again climb on heads of cabbage.

With a small infection, soapy water and a sponge will help to cope with aphids.

Remember the extreme fecundity of aphids and rapid development. The larva from the egg grows to an adult in 2 weeks. You can destroy the first generation, and a week later see representatives of the second and decide that the remedy did not help. Therefore, any treatment must be repeated several times with an interval of 7-10 days.

If no folk remedies really helped, try treating with the Aktofit biological product (8 ml per 1 liter of water). It has a contact and intestinal effect. Borey gets good reviews (100 ml per 10 liters of water), but this is already an insecticide of contact, intestinal and systemic action. It circulates through the plant with its juices for 2–3 weeks, poisons newly hatching larvae, as well as individuals that you have not seen and sprayed or removed using simple folk remedies.

My opinion: if pests are already completely tired, there is no time to fight them, you go to the country house once a week, you don’t recognize chemistry, then The best way to protect cabbage from all troubles at once is to cover the garden bed with spunbond or agrofibre. You can buy the thinnest and cheapest. Immediately after planting the seedlings, it is necessary to install arcs and cover the plantings. The fabric transmits light, air and water well. At the same time, cabbage will be inaccessible to butterflies, flies, fleas and aphids. Even slugs will stop at the border and get stuck in the folds of the material. Therefore, for weeding and feeding, you will have to carefully remove the shelter, checking if there are any uninvited guests.

Cabbage has many enemies, some can destroy it at the very beginning of growth and leave the vegetable grower without a crop. However, it is not difficult to deal with them. In most cases, simple folk remedies help. The main thing is not to wait for a mass invasion, but to warn it: to scare it away, destroy the first single nests, etc. Then no chemicals will be needed, the cabbage will grow tasty and healthy.

My hobbies: plant growing, healthy lifestyle, Tibetan medicine, home winemaking. Trade manager by education. Rate this article:

PESTS OF CABBAGE AND METHODS OF FIGHTING THEM

Pests of cabbage and methods of dealing with them

Cabbage and its entire family can be harmed by polyphagous pests (naked slugs, bears, larvae of click beetles - wireworms, grubs, scoops).
Among them, cruciferous fleas from the order of beetles bring the greatest harm during the period of plant germination.
Of the sucking pests, cruciferous bugs and cabbage aphids bring the greatest harm to cabbage. Naturally, these pests harm your blooming garden, but knowledge about them will allow you to cope with this trouble in time.

Cruciferous bugs.

It is a brightly colored insect with yellow, red and white spots, stripes and dashes set against a black metallic green background.
Sucking plant juices from the leaves, the bugs cause white marble spots, yellowing, wilting, and sometimes complete death of the young plant.
Bedbugs lay barrel-shaped eggs on the underside of leaves in two rows (6 eggs in each row). The larvae emerging from the eggs are very similar to adults, differing only in size and the absence of wings. They crawl over the plant and damage it like adult bugs.
Bedbugs leave for wintering in the second decade of August.

Control measures :

2. When bedbugs appear, they must be regularly collected and treated with a decoction of onion peel.

cruciferous fleas

These are small beetles (up to 3 mm) with jumping hind legs, having black wings with yellow stripes.
Beetles overwinter under plant debris. In early spring, they come to the surface and begin to feed on plants.
cabbage family, since there are no cultivated plants yet.
When the first shoots of radish, rutabagas appear, they move to them, and then to cabbage leaves, so long-awaited by them.
They scrape off the top layer of plant tissue, which dries up in these places, crumbles and holes form.
Beetle activity increases in hot and dry weather. In cool and humid weather, the beetles freeze and even hide under lumps of earth.
These beetles are especially dangerous in the spring when they feed on young shoots, then they lay their eggs in the soil. Adult insects from dolls appear at the end of July, but they no longer cause much harm, and in September they leave for wintering.

Control measures:

1. Destruction of weeds of the cabbage family
2. With the mass appearance of beetles, destroy them with infusions, decoctions of herbs and dusting with dry wood ash mixed with tobacco dust in equal amounts.

Cruciferous whites.

Butterflies of the cruciferous whitefish are large (55-60 mm) with white wings, on the top of the front wings there is a wide black crescent-shaped border. The female has two black spots on the forewings.
Caterpillars are yellowish-green in color with dark spots and dots on the back.
Pupae hibernate on fences, tree trunks, less often on plant debris. In cold harsh winters the pupae die.
The first cabbage white butterflies appear in the first half of May.
Butterflies do not fly on cloudy days. But in sunny warm days they mate and lay yellow eggs predominantly on cabbage leaves.
After 8-12 days, caterpillars emerge from the laid eggs. For some time they stick together on the shady side of the leaf, and then spread over the plant.
Caterpillars eat leaves and cause great damage to the cabbage crop.

Control measures:
1. Destruction of weeds.
2. Spraying of plants with biological preparations against caterpillars of younger ages.
3.Collecting adult caterpillars by hand.

cabbage scoop

This is a butterfly with a wingspan of up to 50 mm. The forewings are gray-brown with a yellowish-white wavy line and two dark spots; the hindwings are dark gray.
cabbage scoop - dangerous pest not only for plants of the cabbage family, it can damage peas, beets, onions and other cultivated plants.
The pupa hibernates in the soil. Butterflies hatched from pupae feed on the nectar of flowers, mate, and at night lay eggs in clusters on the underside of leaves, preferably cabbage.
Caterpillars emerge from the eggs in 7-14 days. At first, they all live together, scrape the flesh of the leaves, and when they grow up, they eat irregularly shaped holes on the leaves.
They usually feed at night and hide during the day. Caterpillars of older ages bite into a head of cabbage, in which they gnaw passages, polluting it with excrement.
A damaged head rots. Caterpillars harm until late autumn

Control measures :
1. Deep autumn digging of the soil reduces the number of wintering pupae and impairs the emergence of butterflies.
2. Destruction of weeds
3. Manual collection and destruction of caterpillars.
4. Biological preparations and infusions of wormwood, potato tops, etc. can be used to destroy early caterpillars.

Cabbage fly.

The fly looks like a housefly. Cabbage is damaged by two types of flies - spring and summer. The first type is the most dangerous.
In the spring, emerging flies lay their eggs on the soil near the plants. The larvae hatching from the eggs penetrate the root of the cabbage, causing the root to rot.

Control measures:
1. Reduces the number of wintering pupae by digging the soil in autumn.
2. Repelling flies during their oviposition in the spring by pollinating with ash, tobacco, celery

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