How to save hydrangeas in winter: the secrets of the magic of a flowering garden. How to cover hydrangea and prepare for winter, ways
Hydrangea is one of the most common flowering plants in the world. In total, about 70–80 of its species are known, but only a few of them grow in Russia. garden varieties various kinds This plant blooms profusely and is relatively unpretentious in care. This and flower growers-lovers around the world. In Russia, of its species with varieties suitable for local conditions, the following are most often planted: tree-like, paniculate and large-leaved.
Most of the hassle of caring for them is associated with preparing plants for winter. The volume and nature of these works determine climatic conditions and a variety of hydrangea. The most winter-hardy is paniculate hydrangea. Some of its varieties are able to tolerate temperatures down to -35 ° C. Still, after all, the natural range of this species is including Sakhalin. In paniculate hydrangea, especially for varieties with high frost resistance, for the winter it is usually enough to protect only root system- cover the soil of its near-trunk circle. And even then, they do it only in regions where there are severe winters. Panicle hydrangea stems almost never freeze, and flower buds form on shoots that grow in the current year.
Good frost resistance and tree hydrangea. However, in climatic zones with severe winters in autumn, it is recommended to cover it completely so that young shoots do not freeze. But even if this is not done, it will have almost no effect on the plant itself, and it will not affect its flowering at all. spring tree hydrangea with frozen shoots quickly recovers. This process will take even less time if you spend timely pruning and plant nutrition. Flower buds in tree hydrangea, as well as in paniculate, are formed on shoots growing in the current year.
Large-leaved hydrangea is the most popular among gardeners all over the world and Russia, but with low winter hardiness. This species includes about 600 varieties, the vast majority of which are heat-loving. Only some varieties can do without a full shelter on Black Sea coast, and some especially frost-resistant ones do not freeze out in the conditions of the European regions of Russia. But even these plants must be fully protected from winter cold, because the large-leaved hydrangea blooms from the buds of shoots that grew last year.
That is, flower buds are formed on the shoots of the current summer. They must be preserved in the winter, covering the hydrangea, otherwise it will not bloom next year. Thus, depending on the type and variety chosen, the purpose of sheltering a hydrangea may be to protect only the root system or even young shoots from freezing. A frost-affected plant will die - this is in the worst case, and in the best - it will only weaken for a while, but may not bloom in the summer. It all depends on the chosen variety, the features of which must be taken into account during the pre-winter preparation of hydrangeas.
In order for hydrangeas to overwinter well, it is not enough to perform only the necessary autumn work. So, you should be aware of the basic conditions that you need to create for this plant on the site. in shady places on acidified soils, needs fertilizers and frequent watering. Does not tolerate the presence of lime in the resulting moisture. Therefore, it should be watered only with soft water, preferably rainwater, and tap water must be defended.
It is necessary to start preparing hydrangeas for winter in advance - no later than the second half of July. From this point on, it is necessary to abandon nitrogen fertilizers, switching to phosphorus-potassium. Already these plants will be prepared for winter. At the beginning of autumn, it is necessary to stop watering the hydrangeas, and cut off the leaves from the lower sections of the shoots. This will contribute to the woodiness of the plants. On the large-leaved hydrangea leaves must be left on top - they will protect flower buds from freezing in winter.
In anticipation of the first cold weather and before sheltering, it is recommended to prune faded inflorescences in paniculate, tree-like and large-leaved hydrangeas. In the latter species, it is important not to cut at the same time the shoots with flower buds, which should bloom next year.
How to hide hydrangea No. 1
Before proceeding with the warming of hydrangeas, it is necessary to find out exactly which variety and type is planted on the site. Classical and frost-resistant paniculate and tree plants shelter, most often, do not need. To secure their bushes in the fall, they should be well spudded, well, and you can still throw them on trunk circle dry leaves (but not with fruit trees) or lay spruce branches, as shown in the photo.
But this only applies to mature plants. One-year-old seedlings, like large-leaved hydrangea, must be completely covered for the winter. The most common proven ways to warm hydrangeas are as follows. First you need to fill the near-trunk circle with dry earth in order to protect the lower buds and root system from frost. When the soil under the hydrangeas is damp, it is advisable to mulch the entire area to be covered with dry earth to reduce the humidity under the shelter being created. Then we choose one of the options for continuing the insulation.
We lay half-meter boards around the hydrangea bush. We carefully bend the shoots of the plant, having previously tied them in a bundle, in one direction, and preferably unrelated - with a fan or the sun around the circumference, as in the photo. Let's fix them:
- we tie with ropes to the nails previously driven into the boards;
- we clamp in the cracks between the boards;
- we press with stones, bricks or other suitable materials.
Then we cover the plants with dry leaves (again, not from fruit trees) and cover them with Lutrasil or Spunbond brand 30.
Additional plant insulation options
The second way of shelter is to cover the soil around the hydrangea with spruce branches in a small amount, and already on it we lay the shoots of the plant using one of the methods proposed above. We fix them at the base and at the ends with wooden or iron staples. We put spruce branches on top of the shoots, and then Lutrasil. Then we make the next layer - from peat or sawdust. We also cover it with spruce branches. Flower buds can be further protected.
To do this, we lay on the periphery of the decomposed plant roomy plastic bags filled with dry leaves. The same packages are placed under the base of poorly bending shoots. They will not let these branches break. Then the entire structure is covered from above with a film or roofing material. The more severe the winter, the more insulating layers need to be done. Their alternation and the use of one or another of the above materials does not matter. The main thing is to follow the basic rules for creating a hydrangea shelter.
Another very popular shelter method is air-dry. The hydrangea bush is first tied and then wrapped Spunbond or Lutrasil, as shown in the video. Then we install around it, 20–25 cm from the shoots, a frame made of a rigid, preferably metal mesh. This fence should rise 10 cm above the top of the plant. We fill the frame with dry leaves, and on top we cover the entire structure with waterproof material - roofing material, film or the like. This method is also used to cover one-year-old panicled and tree-like hydrangeas.
Container and tub specimens of plants are best removed to the veranda, basement or other enclosed space. When this is not possible, a dig is made on the site. Choose sunny place with sufficient depth ground water. Dig a trench there. Its depth should be such that at least 10–15 cm remains from the top of the bush placed in it to the soil surface. We install hydrangeas in the trench, and then cover them with boards or wooden lattice as in the photo.
We lay on top Lutrasil or Spunbond. To create an additional insulating air layer, empty boxes can be hoisted over the trench, turning them upside down and sprinkled with leaves. Lay some waterproof material on top. In the spring, we dismantle the hydrangea shelter gradually - layer by layer, as it becomes more and more warm weather.
Hydrangea (lat. Hydrangea) – flowering plants of the Hydrangea family, which in nature are different information there are from 30 to 80 species. They include shrubs and small trees, growing mostly in East and South Asia, China, Japan, on Far East as well as in the Americas. The plant is named after Princess Hortensia, which no one remembers for a long time, later, when botanists were systematizing plants, hydrangea received Greek name Hydrangea, which translates as “a vessel with water” - the shape of the seed pods of the plant resembles a jug, and the plant itself loves water very much. The Japanese call the hydrangea "ajisai", which means "flower - purple sun." It was from Japan that the hydrangea was brought to Europe in 1820, and at first it was grown because of its low winter hardiness only as indoor plant, but breeders were so carried away by the cultivation of hydrangeas that by the middle of the 20th century more than 100 garden varieties. In our latitudes, garden hydrangea is represented quite widely - twelve popular species.
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Hydrangea flower - description
Most of the hydrangea species are shrubs from 1 m to 3 m high, among hydrangeas there are trees and vines climbing tree trunks to a height of up to 30 m. Among the representatives of the genus there are evergreen species, and there are deciduous, but in our latitudes they grow namely the latter, blooming from spring to late autumn. Two types of flowers are collected in spherical inflorescences at the ends of the stems - barren at the edges and fruiting in the middle of the inflorescence. The flowers are most often white, but a species such as large-leaved hydrangea is represented by varieties with pink, blue, lilac and red flowers, and determines the color of the specimen by the acidity of the soil. For example, hydrangeas grow in acidic soil with blue flowers, in alkaline - with lilac and pink, and in neutral - with pale beige. The fruit of the hydrangea is a multipartite box with seeds.
In addition to large-leaved, tree-like hydrangea grows well in our climate, known for its winter hardiness and ability to recover well after severe frosts. Panicle hydrangea, known for its longevity, also winters well - it can grow in one place up to 60 years.
In addition to these three most popular species, such species as serrate hydrangea, serrate hydrangea, climbing hydrangea, radiant hydrangea, Sargent hydrangea, petiolate hydrangea, oak-leaved hydrangea and others are known in floriculture.
Pruning hydrangeas after flowering
Hydrangea care involves, among other things, its pruning. Some amateur growers claim that hydrangea is like lilac - the more you cut, the more magnificent it blooms next year. This is not entirely true, since this statement is true for the paniculate and tree-like hydrangea, and the colored (large-leaved) hydrangea cannot be cut off. Large-leaved hydrangea blooms on the shoots of last year, so the young branches that have grown this summer should overwinter, and only in next year they can bloom. As for the species with white flowers, namely panicle and tree hydrangeas, they bloom on annual stems, so after pruning, as stated, they will have many young shoots that will produce more flowers. It is recommended to prune hydrangeas in the spring, but this must be done carefully, because the juice ferments in the plants, and they “cry” when pruned. Many flower growers believe that it is better to prune hydrangeas in the fall.
Based on these differences between species, hydrangeas were divided into two groups according to the quality of pruning. The first group includes species that bloom on last year's shoots, such as the already mentioned large-leaved hydrangea, as well as serrate, prickly hydrangea, Sargent, oak-leaved and petiolate liana. Pruning of these hydrangeas can only be cosmetic, removing last year's inflorescences to the first pair of strong buds and weak, old shoots completely.
The second group includes species in which buds form on shoots. current year: panicle hydrangea and tree hydrangea. The main pruning of these types of hydrangeas is usually done in the spring, before the start of the growing season. The tree-like hydrangea is subjected to the procedure only if it is already four years old, otherwise it may die, leaking juice. However, if you prune in the fall, this trouble will not happen. An adult, and even more so an old plant that needs to be rejuvenated, is cut off “on a stump”, that is, only 10 cm are left from each shoot. If the bush is too large and old, do not cut it at a time, otherwise the short shoots will not be able to feed a large root mass. Rejuvenate the bush in parts over three years.
Paniculata hydrangea is pruned moderately, like a tree, without touching the skeletal branches: of the several shoots that grow from one point, only those that grow outward are left.
Pruning hydrangeas in the fall is completely safe and will ensure your plant blooms luxuriantly next year. In the hydrangea species of the second group, the inflorescences are cut off so that the fragile branches of the plants do not break under the weight of snow that sticks to them in winter - this is if you do not intend to cover the hydrangea for the winter. In addition, old thick stems are removed from the hydrangea tree, and weak thin shoots from the panicle hydrangea, and the annual growth is shortened by 2-5 buds.
Preparing hydrangeas for winter
Caring for hydrangeas in paniculate autumn (and for other species too), on the eve of the onset of cold weather, involves sheltering hydrangeas for the winter. Unfortunately, not a single type of hydrangea can winter in our area without insulation, so preparation garden hydrangeas by winter should be thorough. The most winter-hardy is the tree hydrangea, but it also needs shelter for the winter, otherwise the ends of young shoots may freeze slightly.
From mid-September, start preparing: remove all leaves, except for the top ones, in order to speed up the process of lignification of the shoots, and feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (hydrangea is not fertilized with nitrogen in autumn). Now you can cover the hydrangea.
How to cover a hydrangea for the winter
There are several ways to hide, but it all depends on what winters are in your area. AT southern regions it is enough just to spud a bush of arboreal or paniculate hydrangea high. If your winters are unpredictable, then it is better to play it safe and still cover your hydrangeas. Small plants can be completely covered with peat and covered with a film on top - do not be afraid that the plant may rot, this will certainly not happen.
A well-established method that allows you to cover medium-sized young plant and at the same time do not harm him: tie a bush with a rope and pull it slowly, without jerks, to the boards laid on the ground with driven nails, to which you tie the plant. Then throw it with spruce branches or sawdust, and cover it with a sheet of old iron, grade 30 lutrasil or spunbond.
There is an opinion that hydrangea is a capricious plant that requires a thorough shelter for the winter to preserve flower buds. This is only partly true, because applies only to large-leaved variety. Other species (arboreal and paniculate) winter well without shelter in middle lane Russia. If you don’t know what type the hydrangea growing on your site belongs to, why it doesn’t bloom or doesn’t bloom luxuriantly enough, how to prepare it for winter, then in this article you may find answers.
Optimal planting site and soil acidification
All types of hydrangea grow remarkably and bloom in lightly shaded areas protected from drafts. The soil must be acidified. To do this, red high-moor peat or spruce (pine) litter must be mixed with leaf humus. When planting seedlings, this mixture is filled landing pit. If the bushes are already growing, then upper layer the soil must be replaced with the indicated mixture or the trunk circle should be mulched with it. Throughout the season, hydrangeas require abundant, regular watering.
Video lesson on autumn pruning of tree and paniculate hydrangeas
In spring, in dry weather, the entire frozen part must be cut to living tissue. At the same time, all thin, crossing and thickening shoots should be removed. After especially harsh winter pruning a tree hydrangea can turn out to be too short, this is even good for the plant, because. rejuvenation always contributes more lush bloom bushes.
How to winterize hydrangeas
Preparation of tree hydrangea for wintering
Tree hydrangea is distinguished by corymbose inflorescences white color that turn greenish over time
Tree hydrangeas are characterized by corymbose white inflorescences, which eventually acquire a greenish tint. The old varieties of this variety are absolutely non-capricious; they do not need shelter for the winter. But recently released large-flowered varieties, especially those delivered from nurseries in warm regions, require little hilling. They bloom on the shoots of the current year. If during the period of frost the freezing of the upper part of the shoots occurs, then this will practically not affect flowering.
There are tips in the literature that it is not necessary to prune faded inflorescences for the winter, what to do better in spring, so the underlying kidneys are better preserved. This is true, but under the weight of snow accumulating on the inflorescences, the shoots can break. That's why late autumn it is more reasonable to remove faded inflorescences and non-lignified parts of shoots that definitely will not overwinter. Fallen leaves must be collected and burned.
Taking care of panicle hydrangea
Paniculata hydrangea is distinguished by pyramidal inflorescences and brown-red shoots.
Hydrangea paniculata is taller than its tree relative. Its leaves are darker, and young shoots have a burgundy-brown hue. Its inflorescences are pyramidal, dense. At first they are greenish, then white, and by the end of the season they become dirty pink. It also blooms on the shoots of the current year. Winters without shelter. To fully guarantee the safety of the root system, it is advisable to spud the bushes with garden soil. Pruning it is carried out by analogy with the tree.
How to cover a large-leaved hydrangea
Large-leaved hydrangea, requiring reliable shelter for ziu
The second name of large-leaved hydrangea is macrophylla. Here is this sissy and capricious. Without reliable shelter for the winter, pink or blue inflorescences cannot be seen. It blooms on the shoots of last year. During flowering, it is impossible to take your eyes off, it is so good, so flower growers make every effort to preserve flower buds.
Ways to shelter hydrangeas for the winter
First cover option
Shoots of large-leaved hydrangea are bent to the ground, fixed, covered with spruce branches and film
Before shelter, it is desirable to remove thin and crossing shoots, collect all remaining on the plant and fallen leaves. The bush must be divided, taking into account the direction of growth of the shoots, tied in parts, bent to the ground and secured. Shoots are usually flexible, breakage does not occur. Cover with lutrasil, agrospan or any other non-woven material. Sprinkle a generous layer of dry leaves on top. healthy trees, put a film or something to prevent getting wet (a bag of sugar, for example). And at the end throw a piece of the old carpet. You may get the impression that under such shelter the bushes will swell, nothing like that.
Second cover option
Reliable shelter bush large-leaved hydrangea
Several buckets of garden soil should be poured into the base of the prepared bush (without leaves and inflorescences) and the root zone. Put low plants around wooden boxes. Lay hydrangea shoots on them and secure them using the slots of the stands. Cover with several layers of agrospan or similar material, and cover with foil on top.
It is impossible to hurry with disclosure, otherwise all the efforts made will be in vain. Large-leaved hydrangeas can be very harmful return frosts. It is difficult to specify the exact opening time, it depends on the growing region, for example, in the Moscow region it falls on the beginning of May. It happens that after removing the shelter, mold is noticeable on the shoots, this is not a problem. It is simply washed off with water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Shelter for young hydrangeas of any kind
Young hydrangea covered with dry leaves. Subsequently, this design must be covered with a film
The first wintering of a young hydrangea of any kind in a new place is the most difficult period. Cover is a must. In autumn, the seedling should be cut, leaving about 8 cm. Remove all leaves. Cover the bush with dry litter or peat to its full height, lay a few spruce branches, and cover with a film on top, fixing it with stones. You can do otherwise: put a fence around the plant, for example, metal mesh. Fill all the resulting space with dry leaves, stretch the film on top.
blooming hydrangeas beautiful. To contemplate this splendor, you need to know their appearance and properly organize wintering.
Growers and landscape designers the hydrangea bush is highly valued because of its beautiful and large inflorescences. The size and quality of flowers depends on how well the plant is cared for. The main guarantee of their formation is the proper protection of their kidneys in winter.
How to prepare for winter
Preparing for winter is a guarantee not only beautiful flowering hydrangea, but also its survival in general. The first step is to cut off all the lower leaves from the shoots. This will help them stiffen up, making the underside of the bush more resistant to cold. It is important to exclude before winter nitrogen fertilizers, start adding leaf humus under the rhizome of the plant. Will benefit from potash and phosphorus bait. Each variety of plant has its own characteristics when sheltering for the winter. 
Tree hydrangeas do not need much shelter. They perfectly tolerate even the most severe cold. This is due to the fact that this variety has a tall, strong and completely stiff trunk. It gives her the ability to resist frost and quickly recover from them. AT winter period it is only recommended to cut the leaves of the tree-like bush, and the inflorescences can be left to decorate the winter garden. Hydrangea Sargent and large-leaved need careful shelter for the winter. In order for them to survive the winter, you need to have time to completely insulate them before the arrival of the first frost. After cutting off all the foliage and inflorescences, the shoots of the plant should be lowered to the ground and tied to a well-fixed peg. Next, you need to cover the rhizome and trunks with foliage, earth, wrap them with non-woven material with holes. Such actions will help keep the heat for the plant and provide it beautiful bloom from early spring to late summer.
Did you know?In science, hydrangea is called "hydrangea", which literally translates as "a vessel with water."
When to Cover
The preparation of the bush for wintering should begin long before the arrival of cold weather. The best month to start the whole process is September. By this time, the plants will already have faded and will begin to shed their leaves. During October, it is advisable to completely cover them in order to protect the flower buds from low temperatures. When the thermometer is below 0 ° C, the delicate ovaries of flowers are at great risk. Although the plant itself is able to survive at temperatures of -25 ... -35 ° C, in the absence of shelter in such a cold, there will definitely not be inflorescences in spring. 
Shelter of the young
Young bushes are especially sensitive to cold weather, as they have not yet fully matured. To provide them with coziness and comfort, conditions should be created where sudden temperature changes will not be felt, snow will not fall. First of all, a young plant must be protected with a large number dry leaves.
Important! Under the coating should not penetrate cold air or create a draft.
This will help keep the heat at the base of the bush. Next, you need to throw a film or other on the hydrangea nonwoven fabric cut small holes in it. It must be fixed and firmly pressed to the ground so that the wind does not carry it away. For more reliable protection from snow, you can create a small dome or cellophane roof over a young plant.
Paniculata shelter
Paniculata or pink hydrangea enough frost-resistant species. It withstands frosts down to -35 ° C in the absence of strong wind. This species in our latitudes requires minimal shelter for the winter. The best option is the hilling of the beginning of the shoots with a mixture of leaves, soil and peat. If your site is often windy, then it is better to tilt the branches to the ground and fix. This will provide protection from the wind and save more heat.
Video: panicle hydrangea shelter for the winter
Important!Even up to two years panicled hydrangea you need to wrap it with a non-woven material with fixation of bent shoots near the ground.
Shelter large-leaved
Large-leaved hydrangea is the most whimsical when it comes to shelter for the winter. The inflorescences of this plant are large, beautiful and very fragile. To save them during the cold weather, you need to warm the shrub as much as possible. First you need to clean it from all the leaves, cut off the dried inflorescences. Next, insulate the rhizome with a mixture of soil and peat, and then lower the shoots to the ground and fix. Then it is necessary to cover the plant with non-woven material, subsequently pressing it tightly to the ground. Sometimes snow can be poured on top for a better effect.
Video: large-leaved hydrangea shelter for the winter
Shelter tree
Tree hydrangea is a wonderful attribute of any garden. It is unpretentious and easily tolerates frosts down to -30 ° C. The difference of this variety from others is that it has a thicker trunk covered with rough bark. The shoots are much higher than those of the paniculate and large-leaved. In order for the tree-like hydrangea to safely survive the winter and bloom in the spring, you need to properly cover it.
Did you know? Hydrangeas are unique in that they accumulate aluminum from acidic soil. Thanks to this ability, some species acquire a blue color inflorescences.
How exactly to do this depends on weather and temperature conditions. If the temperature in winter does not fall below -15 ... -20 ° C, then the plant can only be covered with earth and leaves. If you often observe cold winds and temperatures below the mentioned range in the area, you should completely cover the bush. Namely: insulate the base of the trunk with leaves, peat and earth, bend the shoots to the ground, cover the hydrangea with non-woven material.
Video: how to properly cover a tree hydrangea for the winter
Shelter methods
In order to shelter plants for the winter, there are many ways. Regarding hydrangeas, the most effective and suitable are sheltering with spruce branches and fixing bent shoots near the ground. They are the ones who provide the most better protection plants from external threats in winter. Lapnik, or spruce forest - fluffy, green fir branches. They are great for warming hydrangeas, as they retain heat well and protect.
They are used as flooring on the base non-woven material. The spruce branches are folded on top in a small layer to strengthen the structure and protect the plant from the oppression of snow. Fixing bent shoots to the ground is also a great way to protect the plant from wind and frost. It is often combined with spruce cover to provide maximum comfort hydrangeas. This method consists in lowering the shoots of the bush to the ground. This must be done gradually so that the plant gets used to this position and does not break. It is best to use a plank with nails or pegs to tie branches to them. Hydrangea is an adornment of any flower bed. And in order for it to bloom more magnificently and brighter, you need to warm it well in winter. Through simple but important steps, you can grow a bush that will delight you. bright colors throughout the warm season.To perennial flowering shrubs successfully survived the cold, they need to be covered for the winter. Among such plants is the large-leaved hydrangea, the flowers of which practically freeze out, and flowering does not occur.
To make such a bush a real decoration of any garden, you need to cut the hydrangea for the winter, and properly prepare it for the winter.
plant description
Hydrangea is one of the most common flowering plants to decorate the garden. In total, there are about 70-80 species of this. The shrub can grow up to 2 meters in height.
It is a deciduous shrub with erect shoots and ovoid leaves bright green.
The plant begins to bloom from the beginning of summer. The flowering period continues until late autumn at proper care. At the ends of the stems are formed lush inflorescences spherical shape . The color of lush inflorescences is bright and can be different:
- lilac;
- white;
- pink;
- blue;
- red.
And shade may change at will, if you change the composition of the soil in which the shrub grows. For example, in sour inflorescences there will be blue color, and with an alkaline soil composition it will bloom pink. A neutral formulation will produce beige buds.
Garden varieties are different abundant flowering and pretty unpretentious in care. With such qualities, hydrangea has always attracted lovers to grow flowers on personal plot. To the most popular varieties for cultivation in Russia is paniculate hydrangea, tree-like and large-leaved.
Most of the care has to do with protecting the plant in the winter. The most winter-hardy is hydrangea paniculata. Varieties of this species are able to survive the winter at minus 30 degrees. This is due to the fact that its natural habitat is Sakhalin. To protect it from frost, it is necessary to cover only the root system. The plant almost never freezes and endures harsh conditions, after which it blooms luxuriantly and profusely.