How to measure rooms. Secrets of professional room measurement

When designing kitchen set it is very important to correctly measure.

We pay attention to important parameters:

What stage is the room in (under renovation or post-renovation)?

At what distance will the walls, floor, ceiling, slopes, openings change?

What are they made of bearing walls on which cabinets will be hung?

Availability of ready-made electrical wiring and water supply, heating, etc.?

Are window sills, slopes on windows, opening fully installed?

What is the angle in the room in the headset mounting area (give the exact size)?

Are there non-standard ledges, columns, beams, bevels, podiums?

Convenience of access, lifting, bringing in large-sized furniture?

We measure along the lines:

- "X" - the distance between the walls (a) at the height of the plinth of the headset (100-150 mm from the floor);

- "Y" - the distance between the walls (b) at the height of the countertop of the kitchen set (800-900 mm);

- "Z" - the distance between the walls (s) at the height of placement wall cabinets/ headset shelves (2000 mm);

- "D" - the distance between the wall and gas pipe(from the corner to the pipe, the diameter and slope of the pipe, the distance from the wall);

- “V” is the distance from the floor to the bottom of the ventilation grate (and from the corner to the grate, give the size of the grate);

- "H" - the distance from the floor to the ceiling in three corners according to the location of the headset (take into account the ceiling levels);

- "h" - the distance from the floor to the window sill (the thickness of the window sill and the protrusion of the window sill from the wall);

- "W" - the distance from the corner to the edge of the window sill and the edge of the window (give the size of the location of the batteries and pipes);

Dimension "a" - the height at which the plinth will pass (100-150 mm);

Dimension "b" - the height at which the countertop is placed (850 mm);

Dimension "c" - the height at which the hanging shelf / cabinet will be placed (2000 mm).

Explaining communications:

The client needs to determine in advance the location of all household appliances, including sink and faucet, stove or hob, dishwasher and/or washing machine, refrigerator, microwave, coffee maker and oven. Their dimensions and the trajectory of opening the doors of the equipment must be taken into account when drawing up a design project. When designing kitchen or cabinet furniture, you need to take into account the opening interior door and the width of the platband (when the sliding element is located close to the door), and take into account the movement of the window sashes (when the sink and mixer are located in the window area).

After determining the location of the sink and household appliances, you need to take into account the placement of electrical outlets (for the selected equipment) in the basement area and above the wall cabinets / shelves. Additionally, it is necessary to plan sockets in the apron area (but not at the sink and not at the hob!) Also, you need to plan additional electrical wiring outlets behind the upper wall cabinets for lighting (powering them through a switch, or directly, depending on the type of lighting). Electrical wiring is done according to mandatory rules, without crossing heating radiators (batteries), gas and water pipes, without being located behind the equipment, near or under the outlets of water or gas!

Next, you need to plan the placement of cold and hot water(water supply) for household appliances and washing and sewerage (drainage). The conclusions must not be placed close to the wiring and above it! You can't post conclusions household appliances, if this is not required by a specific technique, indicating the exact placement in the rules for connecting the technique, otherwise the technique may not fit into the intended area. You can not leave the last connection (fittings) inside the wall, the edges of the last leads must protrude at least 3 cm from the wall, otherwise there is no guarantee of a quality connection to the water (there is no guarantee against the breakdown of the joint / connection and against leakage).

You need to pay attention to the location ventilation outlet, and in the future, if necessary, connect an exhaust hood to it, with an additional box (or corrugation). Sometimes it is better to position the hood (and accordingly hob) in the area of the ventilation outlet. This allows you to completely hide the visibility of the ventilation hole with a decorative box of the hood itself. And avoid not only costs by constructing plastic boxes ventilation duct but also additional noise. It is important to understand the size of the hole, it must be commensurate with the power of the hood. When narrowing the hole exhaust duct power is lost in the flow.

Gas works are carried out only by certified installers and organizations that have licenses for these works. For this reason, most companies do not take on the connection of equipment to gas. It is important. The client must understand that the gas hob cannot be located far from the gas outlet with a valve. This limitation is caused by the length of the gas hose, and it is forbidden to connect several hoses into one! It is important to understand that it is impossible to place a gas hob near the gas pipe and outlet, according to GOST, preventing them from heating!

If there are any protrusions in the room, be sure to fix them by indicating the location and exact dimensions from walls or corners. It is necessary to indicate the material of the wall, ledge, podium, niche, column, for further understanding of "what can be fixed in them." A professional measurer will always pay attention to the slope of the walls and openings. When designing cabinet furniture or sliding systems“absolute horizon and vertical” must be observed. This can be achieved in the first step with with the help of a lung repairs in the room, or in the future, the creation of a furniture frame with the possibility of adjustment and additional trimming with false planks.

Measurer rules:

Rule number 1. How simple, at first glance, the room would not seem, take photos of the walls.

Rule number 2. When taking measurements, use building rule at least 2m long with a level. This will determine the slopes and irregularities of the walls and floor.

Rule number 3. Use a tape measure with a wide measuring tape (20-25 mm) and also fix the length of the tape measure body. Do not bend the tape measure to determine the distance between the walls. It is more correct to write down the size as a sum, for example, 1750 + 75, where 75 is the length of the roulette body.

Rule number 4. When measuring distances with a tape measure, do not allow the tape measure to sag or warp. To do this, mark the walls with a marker at the same height.

Rule number 5. If the planned kitchen is not linear, measure the diagonals. Divide the room into simple triangles. This will reveal real values corners in the room. Or use an electronic goniometer, applying it to the rule.

Rule number 6. All dimensions must be drawn from one baseline. Measure the length of the walls in three places:

At the level of the clean floor,

At the level of the countertop (about 1m from the finished floor),

At the hinge level upper cabinets(about 2m from the finished floor).

Walls can be parallel tilted. In this case, you can get three the same values, but when installing the kitchen, 10-15 mm will not be enough for you. For correct measurement you should draw a vertical line in the middle of the wall and measure the distance to the corners from it. A similar line can be drawn using a laser level or a regular plumb line.

Rule number 7. When measuring pipelines and other communication elements, use a construction angle. Remember to check the slope of the pipeline using the rule. For vertical pipes, be sure to measure at the height of the countertop position about 1m from the floor and at the height of the wall cabinets of 1.5m and 2.1m. This will allow you to understand which of the wall cabinets the pipe gets into, whether it hits the end (sidewall) of the cabinet and, importantly, whether it hits the cabinet mount!

Rule number 8. All dimensions must be given in one dimension. Handwriting should be clear and understandable to those who will design the design in the future. A sketch of the room with the measurements taken can be made in various options: projection, perspective from above, plan view with painting of each individual wall. Each option has its positive and negative sides. The main requirement is not to overload one drawing large quantity sizes and for small parts make individual sketches.

Rule number 9. Appearance measurer is the first person of the company, it is important to be neat, tactful and on time! Having agreed in advance the time of arrival, without being late to be at the agreed time. In addition to the measuring tool, you should have a sufficient amount of documentation about the company, measurement forms, pens, pencils and rulers with you. After completing all the points of the rules, see “whether everything is done” so as not to go to the measurement again!

architectural design planning decision most often begins with the measurement of the room.

Room measurements are best carried out with the help of a specialist who has the necessary skills and good practice, because. such a seemingly simple task can create many problems at the very beginning of the project development.

If you have not previously carried out measurements, then it is better to involve a specialist.

In our practice, there were even moments when the room, where there were only four almost even walls, but the measured plan was drawn up incorrectly, because of which the project had to be redone.

It is not so bad to redo the project, if you order, for example, custom-made furniture according to the developed project, and the measurements differ by only 5 cm from reality, the furniture may not fit into the place indicated in the project.

Therefore, when ordering a project, it is better to leave the measurements of the premises under the responsibility of the architect.

For those who nevertheless decided to take measurements on their own, below we have indicated the main points that you need to pay attention to.

How to make measurements, and what should be included in the measurement plan?

For the implementation of measurements of the premises, measuring instruments are used:

1. Roulette mechanical. Previously, all measurements were carried out mainly with this tape measure, now the tape measure is used as an inexpensive measuring device for measuring very short distances in tandem with a laser range finder.

2. Laser range finder (laser roulette). With the help of this device, many measurers work, it is easy to use, has a small weight and dimensions, often this device alone is enough to carry out all measurements.

3. Goniometer. Measuring device for premises of complex configuration. It is necessary when there are angles of more or less than 90 degrees in the room, it allows you to immediately determine the required angles between the fences.

4. Total station. A device for measuring rooms of complex configurations. It is also used for measuring facades, topographic surveys, and setting out reference points on the ground.

When measuring a room, you must:

1. Measure all walls along the perimeter and height

2. It is necessary to determine the height from floor to ceiling (ceiling) at different points in the room. The more height points, the more accurate the room height data will be.

3. It is important to measure all diagonals (often forgotten), because the room may have irregular shape. If the room visually has an even shape, then when drawing up a drawing and indicating the distance of the diagonals, irregularities are often revealed.

4. Indicate availability existing communications, their location in the room, show the dimensions of these communications, the distance from existing fences. Often, for example, when renting premises, there are transit (other tenants) communications that cannot be dismantled (removed), so they must be taken into account in the project.

5. Determine the connection points for water supply, sewerage, electricity, ventilation and other systems. If the points to connect all necessary systems are absent in the room, it is necessary to determine the nearest places of possible connection outside the area of the room.

6. To carry out photographic fixation of the premises inside and outside, indicating the viewpoints on the measurement plan.

The scope project includes:

Plan with dimensions, heights

Plan with connection points engineering communications

Sections showing all the heights of the room and the location of utilities

Plan showing photo reference points

Photos of the object inside and outside the premises.

Measurement instructions for various purposes.

Lesson name: Work measurements premises, architectural elements, and other objects.

The target audience: Measurers, designers, architects, artists, students of specialized universities. And also all who needed to make a measurement or control measurement.

Tags: How to measure a room, how to measure an object, how to measure. Carrying out interior measurements. Measurement plan, dimensional drawings, dimensional drawings.

The composition of the lesson:

1. Introduction.

2. Task for measurement.

3.Tools.

4.Technology of measurements.

5. Checking the measured dimensions.

1. Introduction:
In the field of design, it is not uncommon to have questions about the correct measurement. Very often, a lot depends on the accuracy of dimensions, and in case of an error in taking measurements, you have to pay with money, time and nerves.
There are many areas where measurements or measurements need to be made. In all specialties, this lesson, of course, cannot be run through, since I, as the author of the lesson, have developed a scheme for taking measurements in certain areas related to my work.
I have been dealing with dimensions since 1997, and during this time I had to work in various areas where the permissible measurement error varied greatly. From restoration permits and furniture production, to architectural measurements and landscape works.

2. Task for measurement:
Measurement for pure art is rather strange, so you first need to understand why you have the task of taking measurements (measurement). I won't list everything possible options, I will focus on the most common.

You need to measure the premises, for example, to order furniture. This is where the permissible error arises.

TIP: Get used to using mm (millimeter) notation, in this case, if you need to quickly translate the numbers, an error is less likely.

Each size, until you are used to it, is better to divide into two parts, for example, the size you measured is 1912 mm, if you are not used to calculating in mm, you need to pronounce the size as nineteen-twelve, this also reduces the possibility of error.

Margin of error - this is how much you can make a mistake without prejudice to your task.
For example, if you mark out a house in the steppe, the error can be 5 meters. On the other hand, if you measure a microcircuit or a piece of jewelry, the error is completely different. Accordingly, when you make a measurement, you must understand how much you can make a mistake, for this an error is needed. You need to ask about it before the measurement, if you do not know it.

3.Tools:
For different tasks there are different instruments to help you make measurements.
I will try to list all possible tools for interior measurements. TIP: If possible, take spare tools with you.

a) one of the most important is tablet or folder(cardboard, etc.) and sheets of paper + writing unit, pen - pencil. Moreover, a pencil is preferable, it is easier to correct what has already been written, but choose whichever is more convenient for you.

j) table and chair (optional)

l) assistant (optional)

m) laptop (optional)

m) drawing programs. For example, I draw my measurements in AutoCAD, thanks to which you can always find a place with a supposed error or a forgotten size.

o) 3D scanners. (If you have this thing, you don't need this tutorial.)

There are many types of tablets, but I recommend that you purchase and use, for example, these: Folder-tablet with clip and lid, A4
Tip: buy a tablet in black (dark) color - it will hardly be clean at construction sites.
At one time I bought tablets without a lid, it turned out to be very impractical - the sheets get dirty and the tablet itself is not as hard as with a lid. Fasteners for the handle are not required, but the clip on top is important. (I met tablets with a side clip - do not buy these.)

b) Roulette correctly choose three positions:
1.) The accuracy of measuring with a tape measure - you can trust the manufacturer, but it's better to check.
2.) Rigidity when unfolded. Ideal - if you can lift the tape measure to its full length and the canvas does not bend.
3.) Weight - since you will have a lot of things with you, it makes sense to take care of this in advance.

The highest quality roulettes are made by companies: Stanley, E-TOP, Stayer, Hilti, etc.

in) Laser measuring instruments are divided into several types:

Laser roulettes, rangefinders. These are devices for measuring distances. It is widely used in engineering geodesy (in the construction of communication lines, hydraulic structures, power lines, etc.), in topographic surveys, in military affairs (mainly for determining distances to targets), in navigation, in astronomical research, and in photography. They are based on measuring the time of passage of waves of the corresponding range from the rangefinder to the second end of the measured line and back. (Errors occur when the beam collides with particles of dust, liquids and gases - be careful.)

For internal works I recommend using rangefinders with an estimated length of at least 50 meters. There are several established manufacturers of rangefinders, the choice depends on the intended use of the tape measure. Most well-known manufacturers: HILTI, Leica, Bosch.

For measuring work for interior design, I recommend the HILTI pd 42 model (there is a significant drawback, the power button that is not recessed when accidentally pressed on the case turns on the device. (you need to have spare batteries), the device is good for everyone else.) or Bosh 70 dle, small, light, reliable

Laser level, plumb– traditional construction tool with a built-in laser marker, which allows you to "extend" the level profile in space with a laser beam, which achieves greater measurement accuracy compared to a conventional level. Now, in order to transfer the level of a wall or partition, window sill or heating radiators, you just need to lean the laser level against the projected surface, turn on the emitter and laser pointer, built into the level, will show a mark on the wall opposite - it is enough to set aside from this point the distance from the base of the level to the laser emitter (usually, it is 1-3 cm). In some models, rangefinders have water levels and you can use the rangefinder to make a mark as L.U. There are two types of laser level: 1. Water level - the horizontal (vertical) level is set thanks to the usual water levels. 2. Gyroscopic - the level in this device is set automatically, depending on the level of the horizon

Total Stations. total station- an optoelectronic geodetic device (combining a theodolite and a range finder) that allows you to make any goniometric measurements simultaneously with measuring distances and, based on the data obtained, carry out engineering calculations, storing all the information received in the instrument’s memory or transferring them to a PC for further processing by the operator. The tacheometer also allows you to calculate areas and volumes of plots, measure the sagging of power transmission lines and impregnable heights, measure and calculate coordinates, measure horizontal distances, slope distances, elevations of points, etc.

Theodolites. Theodolite is one of the oldest inventions for measuring. It is designed to measure horizontal and vertical angles. Theodolite is one of the main measuring instruments on any construction site. Depending on the accuracy, theodolites can be used in triangulation, polygonometry, in geodetic thickening networks. By design, modern theodolites are divided into optical and electronic. Most theodolites have a compensator and a direct image. (Very often, levels are called theodolites. In some devices, there is a combination of functions.)

Rotary and stationary levels. Levels are designed to determine the excess between points or the removal of design marks into nature. Levels are divided into rotary and stationary devices. The former are used for outdoor work, the plane is set by means of a rotating horizontal beam, with visible or invisible laser radiation. Laser levels form a visible horizontal, vertical or inclined plane with a laser beam rotating at up to 500 rpm. Setting the plane to horizontal position produced using electronic and liquid levels or automatic system self-levelling.

G) Stickers or chalk are needed for control measurement marks. The technology of use will be described later.

e) The plumb line can be conventional or laser. An ordinary plumb line, one of the most ancient and practically unchanged devices in construction. (Some laser rulers have a built-in plumb function.) Needed to determine curvature. Usually used for exterior walls, also used in furniture measurements.

g) Level. The building level is preferably more than 80 cm long. Needed to determine the alignment of screeds, pads, etc. The verticality of the walls. If you use the floor for zero, then you must definitely check it with a level before that.

h) Flashlight - needed to illuminate niches, holes, etc. If you measure correctly, you will almost certainly find where it is worth shining.

and) the camera is a very important part of the measurements, it is recommended to take several hundred photographs, both of all possible nodes, and general views. Use flash and take pictures without it. It is best to take photos according to the system, take a step, take a photo, or use any other system that is convenient for you, the main thing is that you have photos of everything that you measured. (In the event of a mistake, this can save you a lot of remeasurement time.)

4. Measurement technologies:

a) Measurement of furniture.

b) Measurement of the room.

c) Measurement of the product of an object / node in the interior.

d) Landscape measurements.

e) Architectural measurements.

f) Other types of measurements...

BUT) Technology for furniture measurements:

In addition to tools, , , , for measuring furniture you will need: a caliper, meters of different strokes (from the drawing set), a meter iron ruler, tracing paper or transparent material qualities similar to tracing paper.
Furniture measurement is made to create a copy of an existing item. That is, in addition to external forms, you will have to figure out how the object that you measure is arranged. Well, let's start in order. The final view of the measurement will look like the required number of projection views, sufficient to reproduce a piece of furniture. The number of types depends on the complexity of the product. Usually these are 3 projections, but there may be 6 types. (Front, left view, top view, bottom view, rear view, etc.) Drawings must be in one to one scale (product template), other scales are usually not used, only for components and elements.

The final drawings must show all the elements necessary for reproduction, therefore, these drawings are usually made in color. Those drawings that are made in black and white graphics and not in natural scale do not allow an exact copy. The work of this type is performed by artists. AT this moment, this can be done by any user of a personal computer and who owns the necessary graphics packages.

Further, everything is simple, laborious work on transferring details from an object to paper, using tracing paper, photographs. The transfer of patterns, both the thickness and the depth of seams, threads, etc. are measured with a caliper. (then show thread sections on the template). On average, such work takes two to three weeks for a classic piece of furniture.

B) Room measurement technology:

The measurement of any room must begin with the choice of the base surface (better horizontal: ceiling, floor). The base surface is chosen based on the fact that it is flat (horizontal or vertical) you can check this using a level or by eye. It is better to choose the floor as the base surface, but the floor is not always the most even surface. It is advisable to have a drawing of the premises before starting the measurement (unfortunately, not always possible). And some copies.

Tip: Apply dimension lines to a drawing or a sketch just made - this saves a lot of time, and in this case, as you fill in the drawing with numbers, you are less likely to miss something. Tip: Do not count on right angles and even if the room is like a cube, measure each wall and be sure to diagonally between the corners of the room. (I came across in practice: all the walls were equal - the builders leveled, but the diagonals diverged by almost 300 mm. Conclusion: there are no right angles in the room. Somewhere obtuse, somewhere sharp.) The most important dimensions that are drawn and measured in first of all, this maximum dimensions premises. Maximum - the distances of the outer walls in the premises.

To be continued...

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Situations when the furniture brought or made simply “did not fit” in the planned place belong to the category of unfunny anecdotes. This also includes cases where the width of the corridor, landing did not allow to carry a large-sized monolithic part to the place of its further assembly. It is quite difficult to treat such situations with humor - after all, they all significantly hit the pocket. Therefore, it is very important for initial stage make measurements of the room for furniture correctly - and extremely carefully, taking into account all the nuances.

Typical mistakes when measuring a room for furniture

There is good popular expression- festina lente, which means "hurry slowly." Usually they forget about it, starting to make a global renovation in the apartment, or moving from the stage of rough finishing to the “finishing” stage.

Never trust the measurements taken in a room where the finishing work has not yet been completed.
Never take for reliable figures voiced by finishers: not a single craftsman, even the most experienced one, is able to say exactly how many centimeters it will take from the opening, for example, after laying the tile. Measurements of the room for furniture are made strictly after the completion of all work!
Do not believe the finishers and in the statements that now everything is “on the level”, the walls and floors are in a perfectly perpendicular-parallel relationship to each other. Nothing is perfect. Measure at least three height positions (along the baseboard, in the middle of the wall, and along the fillet).
Consider the geometry of the room, especially if it is still empty and deceptively spacious. Protruding radiators and window sills, pipes often “do not allow” to push the refrigerator or stove close to the wall, thereby stealing centimeters from the kitchen set. Carefully and scrupulously draw all the details on your furniture measurement sheet.
Use only accurate measuring instruments. No tailor's meters and worn Chinese tape measures, levels with dubious calibration. Do not neglect the use of various levels and laser measuring instruments.

All these points could be attributed to obvious truths that do not require reminder. If you do not count how many times even experienced and prudent craftsmen were burned on them. Always leave "in reserve" a couple of centimeters if the furniture is installed "from wall to wall". The excess can always be “dispersed” between the modules, but the shortage turns into costly and time-consuming alterations.

Measurements of kitchen furniture

Under kitchen furniture measurement of the premises begins to be carried out as standard:

Draw by hand the plan of the room (top view) with all the protrusions.
Separately draw the walls in upright with outlets, ventilation holes, horizontal crossbars and ledges (to indicate their height).
Moving in one direction from the entrance to the room (for example, from left to right), carefully measure the wall at three levels (from below, above and at the level of the apron), recording the smaller value.

For corner and U-shaped layouts it would be useful to do an "obtuse angle test" with a rectangular or square blank or square. If there is a deviation, fix the deviation on the first drawing, with the floor plan.

It would not be superfluous to indicate, in addition to the measurements of the room in the top view, an approximate arrangement of household appliances - a refrigerator, an oven, a washing machine and dishwasher, if they already have rigid bindings in the form of sockets for connection, prepared drains or hood outlets. All appliances should ideally be purchased before ordering kitchen furniture. Or clearly defined "on Wishlist". In the process of designing kitchen furniture, you will need technical specifications for embedding from the instructions attached to the selected technique.

Particular attention should be paid to measuring the kitchen furniture of the corner module, in particular, the supply of utilities, the location of the counters. If you plan to order kitchen furniture or do it yourself, it is quite possible to do without cuts in place. The designer-designer of furniture, if possible, adapts standard design corner module to your angle so that you can use it comfortably. Like, for example, here.

Measurements of niches for built-in wardrobes, compartments, dressing rooms

There are two fundamental differences between measuring a room (niche) for installing a sliding wardrobe:

The wall sweep is drawn immediately.
Measurements are made at three positions, not only horizontally, but also vertically.

On a separate drawing, so that there is no confusion, the locations of sockets, protrusions, crossbars (if any) are also indicated.

If you know how the wiring runs inside the wall, at what level is metallic profile drywall partition, it is also worth designating - this will allow you to adapt internal filling cabinet for easier installation.

Today we continue the topic of repair. It will be about how to measure a room in 16 minutes, why measurements are needed, what information we get and how to do it. We take into account where the type was determined - a simple cosmetic repair, we proceed to the measurement plan.

1. How to measure a room, what is it for.

geometry check. It often turns out that the corners in the room are not 90 degrees, the walls are not vertical, the floors are not horizontal. If built-in furniture is ordered, then there is a chance that it will not fit into the planned place or there will be a distance between the wall and the furniture indicating unevenness.
for budgeting.
calculate and buy accordingly required amount materials
how much money to pay for work, checking volumes
preliminary calculation of the scope of work

2. What information will we get if we make measurements of the premises.

floor area (m2), installation, flooring replacement.
the number of skirting (mp), the number of internal and outside corners plastic plinth.
ceiling area (m2) - the following works: plastering, puttying, painting, stretch ceiling for a preliminary cost estimate.
amount ceiling baguette, mp.
wall area (m2) - types of work: plastering, puttying, painting, wallpapering
the dimensions of the doors and the amount of trim - will allow you to make a preliminary calculation of the door if you are going to order or just pick it up in the store.
window size or door block, width, height and thickness of the existing window sill. This data is quite enough to find out the preliminary cost of new products.
quantity (mp) and diameter of heating pipes - how much to buy paint, how much to pay for the work done.
radiator dimensions.

3. What you need to take measurements.

To perform room measurements, you will need the following measuring tools:

water level, laser level, two-meter rule with a level, plumb line, goniometer. To determine the horizontal, vertical and check.
measuring tool: a tape measure with a tape width of 20-25 mm and a length of 7.5 - 10 meters or an electronic measuring device.
3 sheets of blank A4 paper or just regular checkered sheets.
pencil pen.
assistant, together it is more convenient and more fun.

It is not necessary to have the entire list. measuring tools, at the moment the tape measure is sufficient. If you are planning overhaul floors, then you will definitely need a regular water or laser level.

4. How to measure a room in 15 minutes with 95% accuracy.

This method is suitable in the following cases.

If a small percentage of discrepancy is unimportant for you.
For an approximate check of the scope of work of the performers.
For counting, buying, checking the consumption of materials.
For simple cosmetic repairs.
If you have absolutely no time and completely trust the team performing repair work, but control of the money spent is definitely needed, then spend only 16 minutes measuring the premises and everything will be fine.

So, step by step algorithm how to measure a room in 16 minutes with 95% accuracy next.

1 step. How to measure a room, the creative process.

On the first sheet we draw a floor plan. To do this, we pass along the plinth and draw by hand the same configuration, including protrusions, ledges, approximately respecting the proportions. As a rule, it is necessary to pay attention to the side with a window or a balcony block. Then we number each side on the plan with the numbers 1,2,3,4, clockwise from the entrance to the room.

On the 2nd sheet, we display walls No. 1,3,4, where everything is simple and look like a rectangle. You can fit several of them, because there will be two sizes on each.

On the third sheet we draw wall No. 2 of a complex configuration, in my case with window block, where there will be many sizes.

Thus, the time was spent only 5 minutes. Beauty is not required here, but everything should be clear and clearly visible.

2nd step. How to measure a room, measurements.

Try to take measurements at a level of 1-1.5 from the floor, the tape measure must be held horizontally to the floor or perpendicular to the floor, depending on what we are measuring, length, height.

3. We measure walls No. 3 and No. 4. The principle remains the same. If the configuration is complex, then you need to draw on a separate sheet.

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