Making kitchen furniture with your own hands. DIY kitchen furniture DIY kitchen furniture

Properly selected furniture for the kitchen will provide comfort during work, organically fit into the overall design. You can choose a ready-made kit, order production according to individual sizes or make a kitchen set with your own hands.

Kitchen set made of wood with their own hands

Advantages

Even with a little experience in carpentry, you can cope with the task. Making a kitchen with your own hands will allow:

  • Reduce the cost of the headset several times (at least 2 times). The difference is especially noticeable if, due to the features and layout of the kitchen, a standard set of furniture is not suitable, it must be made to order;
  • Create individual scheme design that best meets the functional requirements;
  • Do unique set, give it its original shape;
  • Be sure in high quality assembly at minimum cost.

Luxurious wood grain kitchen with dark countertops

At the same time, it will take time to develop drawings and diagrams for making a kitchen set with your own hands, the choice of material, the manufacturing and assembly process itself. It is necessary to have skills in working with tools - this guarantees a quick result.

Kitchen set, hand-assembled with beautiful facades top drawers

Material selection

It is easier to make a kitchen from chipboard with your own hands. To make the headset cheaper and keep good performance characteristics, use several types of material:

  • For the basis of the design - suitable ordinary stoves from chipboard. The back walls can be made of fiberboard, the side and bottom walls can be made of chipboard. When buying, you need to pay attention to the expiration class of phenol compounds. It is better to choose E1, it is quite durable and releases less phenol-containing substances than E2, E3. A more environmentally friendly option is MDF and solid wood, but they will cost more;

    Do-it-yourself corner kitchen set made of chipboard

  • Fronts of kitchen furniture - doors and front walls of drawers should be made of a material that can withstand constant cleaning. They can be made of wood, with carvings, glass inserts. You can buy ready-made facades from MDF. More a budget option– smooth chipboard boards coated with paint or self-adhesive film. Their service life is much shorter than wooden furniture, which can be stored for more than one generation;

    Green painted MDF kitchen

  • The countertop must withstand moisture, temperature, be resistant to scratches. Filmed or varnished chipboard will quickly lose its appearance. More suitable laminated or postforming. Last option- a plate covered with a layer of plastic is resistant to impacts, offers many options for color, pattern, can imitate the texture of stone or wood.

    Ceramic tiles as countertops working area

Important! If a stove is built into the kitchen set, the wood for the structure is not suitable for fire safety.

An expensive option - a countertop made of natural or artificial stone. At home, it is difficult to make a cutout for embedding sinks and appliances. You can do the work in a specialized company, but you have to spend money.

This is what an artificial stone countertop looks like on the working area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe kitchen

You should not make a modular kitchen from solid wood. The material is subject to shrinkage, shrinkage will result in an uneven overall surface.

DIY kitchen with drywall niches

Required Tools

For the manufacture of cabinets and the installation of a kitchen set with your own hands, you need:

  • Roulette, ruler;
  • Electric jigsaw;
  • Hacksaw, pliers, hammer;
  • File, sandpaper;
  • Stationery knife;
  • Electric drill and drills;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Electroplaner;
  • Level (for greater accuracy - laser), plumb;
  • Workbench, vise;
  • Clamp.

Necessary tools for assembling a kitchen with your own hands

From the fasteners you will need:

  • Confirmation screws;
  • Guides for drawers, it is better to choose ball;
  • Furniture ties for connecting sections;
  • Crocodile hinges for attaching doors to cabinets;
  • Dowels for installing countertops.

Assembling the bottom drawers of a modular kitchen set

Additionally, you need to pick up handles for drawers and doors.

Measurement features

First you need to decide what the design will be: angular, as in the photo, or straight. The first allows you to save space. Easier for a beginner modular design direct type. It is easier to move it away from the wall if necessary, it is easier to replace or repair a separate locker. To make a corner kitchen with your own hands, you can use photo drawings with dimensions:

The project of the lower cabinets of the future kitchen set

Attention! When making a kitchen with your own hands, drawings and diagrams must be completed after buying built-in appliances and washing, in order to take into account their dimensions. If you purchase ready-made facades, you should focus on their parameters.

Creating a kitchen from plywood with your own hands

When determining the design scheme, you need to consider:

  • The presence of gas sewer pipes and plumbing - during installation, you will have to make recesses for them, and the cabinet for washing is done without rear wall. For stability, it is necessary to fix the walls of the structure with metal corners;
  • The size of the hood - you can make a special cabinet for it;
  • Dimensions of the dryer in the cupboard. It is better to purchase it in advance and adjust the dimensions of the suspension module to fit it.

Connecting filters for water and other communications

The corner kitchen is designed with the same features in mind. For hanging cabinets, you need to determine a convenient location height. You can use drawings and diagrams in the photo to make a kitchen with your own hands:

Calculation of a typical cabinet for a modular kitchen

Another drawing that can be used in practice

DIY kitchen assembly process

Main details

After determining the number of cabinets and their dimensions, you can proceed to the manufacture of parts.

Marking places for fasteners

The standard cabinet consists of 4 parts:

  1. Horizontal (2 pcs). It is located between the side walls, to which it is attached with confirmatory screws. Its width should be less finished cabinet two thicknesses of the side walls. If the chipboard plate is 1.6 cm, and the cabinet width is 80 cm, then the horizontal size is: 80-(1.6 * 2) = 76.8 cm;
  2. Side wall (2 pcs);
  3. Shelf (usually 1 piece). It can be screwed to the walls, then in width it should be equal to the horizontal. If you make it removable and lay it on shelf supports, for easy installation you need to make it 3 mm narrower horizontally;
  4. Back wall (1 piece). To facilitate the design, it is made of fiberboard. The height and width must be less than the body parameters by 5 mm. This eliminates the bulging of the wall with small sawing errors.

Cut material for the future headset

Details are cut with a jigsaw after careful measurements. You can order a cut when buying materials. It will be done for an additional fee. The furniture company already has blanks for sawing. Standardly, their dimensions are a multiple of 15, which must be taken into account when drawing up drawings and diagrams for a kitchen set with your own hands. You can also make blanks according to individual sizes, but it costs more. Finished parts for each module must be numbered to avoid confusion in subsequent work.

Lower Kitchen Cabinets Assembled

Workpiece processing

If moisture gets inside the cut, the product swells and deforms. Gluing the edge on the edges of all parts will help to avoid this. It should be combined with blanks in color. On the one hand, it is treated with glue, which melts when exposed to high temperatures.

Silicone treated drawer joint corners

Edging is done with an iron and thick fabric:

  • The iron heats up to medium temperature;
  • The part must be placed with the saw cut up, measure and cut off the edge (with a margin of 2-3 cm), attach to the cut;
  • Heat the edge with an iron, pressing it firmly against the part. The movements are smooth, do not linger in one place for a long time so as not to burn the tape. The glue will melt a little. Without waiting for cooling, press with a cloth folded in several layers;
  • After cooling, cut off the protruding edges of the edge with a clerical knife without scratching the surface of the workpiece;
  • Carefully file the cut edges with a file so that there are no sharp and clinging areas.

Do-it-yourself edge trimming

For convenience, build a stand for blanks from a board and two bars that are attached to it. Between them, you can put the part, freeing your hands for edging.

Lacquering the front of the kitchen

Assembly and installation

Before starting work, you need to sort the parts for each pedestal to make sure that they are complete and save time during assembly.

Base cabinets

Assembly of lower cabinets kitchen set

All parts are connected in the following order:

  1. Assemble a drawer (one or more, depending on the model). Attach guides for the sliding mechanism to the outer sides, parts of which are attached to the side walls of the cabinet;
  2. Twist the horizontal and side parts of the box, fix the shelf or holders;
  3. Check the diagonal - put the body with the front part on the floor, measure the distance from opposite corners with a tape measure, it should be the same;
  4. After nailing the back wall first on one side, re-check the diagonal. Fasten along all edges, the distance between nails or screws is 10 cm;
  5. Screw on the legs by turning the cabinet upside down.

Assembling the lower cabinets for the future kitchen

Install in the right place, then screw the doors. After installing the cabinets, you can fix the table top.

Upper parts

The principle of assembling the case is similar to the lower cabinets. You can fix the upper modules with mounting strips: one is screwed to the wall, the other to the cabinet. First you need to determine at what level the mounted modules will be located. In order for the bar to be even, you need to use a level to outline the line of its future location. You can not measure the distance from the floor to the bar with a tape measure to avoid bumps and distortions.

Fixing the upper cabinets to the mounting plate

After fixing the rail to the surfaces, you can hang the cabinets. Check their location with a level, use a clamp to pull the modules together. Install between the tool and the walls of the cabinets wooden spacers so as not to damage the surface.

Upper kitchen cabinets before and after painting

Intersection ties will help to fix the cabinets together, for which you need to drill holes inside the cases. To prevent chipping, hold a block of wood at the exit point of the drill. The work is completed with the installation of doors on upper cabinets.

The final stage of assembling a kitchen with carved facades with your own hands

Modeling an old kitchen

If the design of the installed headset is suitable in shape and size, but it needs to be replaced, you can use it as a basis for manufacturing new kitchen do-it-yourself instead of drawings:

  • Disassemble the old modules into parts, number the details of each so as not to confuse later;
  • Clean them from dust;
  • Take measurements, according to which the details of the new headset will be made;
  • Cut out parts of the desired shape from a chipboard sheet;
  • Connect, fix new fittings, install in place.

DIY kitchen furniture decor

In the course of work, you can adjust the dimensions of some parts if they do not suit you. You can rely on photo drawings and dimensions for making a kitchen with your own hands.

9. Drying, assembly and installation of cabinets in their places in the kitchen. At this stage, the final version of the kitchen was already visible. Lacquer, stain and polishing did their job - beauty. Installation in place in the room was carried out in 3 hours, I really wanted to quickly install everything in its place. First I hung upper cabinets along pre-set guides. After that, I assembled and installed the main, lower cabinets without installing facades.
10. Making a countertop. The tabletop is a separate "song". I want mine too own production. Poryskav found several options in the internet and settled on a countertop with a plywood base lined with caramogranite tiles. Here is the process of making a tabletop. In general, there is nothing to add here, everything is clear from the description. From myself, I will only add that the legs for the cabinets need to be chosen really good and strong so that they can withstand the entire structure along with the contents of the cabinets.
11. Installation of elements and mechanisms for closing / opening on the doors and shelves of cabinets. Responsible item. It is important to choose the right hinges and casters to meet all the needs of your kitchen, so that the angles of rotation and exit / exit / crawl out of doors and kitchen shelves are provided. On each product, whether it is a loop or rollers, the dimensions that must be observed and maintained during its installation are indicated. Following these instructions, it will not be difficult to install them in place. Of course, for their installation, you will need special tools, such as a forstner drill. The thing is inexpensive so you can buy. It is important to observe symmetry when installing hinges and rollers so that the door or shelf does not warp when closing / opening.
12. Production of kitchen facades (cycle according to p. 3-8) with milling of the ends and a pattern on the front side. I also made the fronts by hand. At first I wanted to order, but after learning the price and looking at the samples, I decided that I myself could do at least no worse. Again, I had to buy a manual router. I took not the cheapest, but the penultimate one in price. The work will be one-time and there is no point in taking an expensive milling cutter, I don’t need it. The order of work on the manufacture of facades is similar to that indicated in paragraphs 3-8. The coating with stain and varnish is similar to the frame. That's just the difference in drawing a pattern on the front surfaces of the facades with a cutter. Well, I bought a milling cutter, I also have hands. I practiced on scraps and proceeded to the main parts. I started with small doors. For them, their own template was made according to which a pattern was transferred by a cutter repeating the arch in the passage of the kitchen and the room. Then came the turn of the large doors of the facades. For them, their own template was made, larger, of the same configuration. On the ends, I processed the facades with an edge cutter, the drawing was transferred with a groove cutter. The cutters are expensive, I took 500 rubles apiece, I bought two of them: one edge and one slot. I will add that milling work must be done outdoors, in the open air: there is a lot of dust and chips. It is also possible in the apartment, but the vacuum cleaner will have to be cleaned often :)
13. Installation of glass parts, shelves and trays for drying dishes in cabinets, sinks. After assembling and installing all parts of the kitchen in their places, you can install the filling. The glass parts were screwed using special glass fasteners. I bought pallets and dryers ready-made to fit my size - the installation is the simplest, with screws.

Each zealous owner, creating comfort in his home, strives to ensure that all the elements of the situation fit harmoniously into his interior, have maximum comfort and functionality and at the same time do not cost a fortune. A great way out is to create individual pieces of furniture yourself. This is how you can get desired option, which satisfies all the aspirations of the household and allows you to seriously save. Whereas the kitchen is where the whole family spends a large number of time, every little thing is important here and making a kitchen set with your own hands is what you need. Particularly relevant homemade furniture for a small kitchen standard options won't suit you.

Of course, for novice craftsmen, creating a home-made kitchen set is a very serious task, but quite solvable. To do this, however, you need to have minimal carpentry skills and really have a great desire.

In order to make this furniture without spending a lot of effort and nerves, and most importantly money, you will first need to create a design project and detailed drawings kitchen set. Drawings of kitchen furniture should include absolutely all sizes and take into account literally every detail.

Be sure to indicate where the stove will be located or hob, fridge, sink, Dishwasher and other kitchen electronics. Firstly, the location of these items depends on communications, and secondly, when placing these elements, some rules must be taken into account. So, the refrigerator cannot stand next to the stove, there must be a cabinet between them, for an electric stove, as a rule, there is already an outlet, and the sink cannot be adjacent to either the stove or the refrigerator.

It is also necessary to take into account the dimensions of the facade elements of the headset. No matter how determined you are to do everything with your own hands, it is still preferable to order a kitchen facade. Only a real master can create a beautiful home-made furniture facade, and that's another story. We want to talk about the construction of the frame of a kitchen set with our own hands, and this, it should be noted, is perhaps the most important thing in creating multifunctional handmade kitchen furniture.

The question of how to make drawings and diagrams yourself will help to resolve modern programs that design cabinet furniture, for example PRO100.

So, the drawing of the headset has been worked out, the facades have been selected and ordered, let's proceed to the manufacture of kitchen furniture.

Necessary materials and tools

In order to assemble furniture for the kitchen with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

  • jigsaw (if the material is cut independently);
  • screwdriver (you can’t do without it);
  • drill;
  • level;
  • a hammer;
  • roulette.

Phew, the renovation is over, the queue for furniture. We start, of course, with the kitchen.

Having made miscalculations with furniture makers - starting from homemade garage and ending famous brands- I received figures (Kyiv) from 4 to 7 thousand dollars (I will keep silent about Italian and German marks). This is despite the fact that the kitchen has only the lower part. And this is without taking into account the cost of equipment, washing, mixer. Well, it’s not a fact that by paying decent money, you will get a result of the appropriate quality. My neighbor paid 3,000 for the kitchen - incorrect measurements, multiple trips to “finish it on the spot”, inexpensive fittings (does not smell like closers), the countertop swelled up after a few months of use.

Pricing for furniture makers, as it turned out, is quite simple - the total cost of materials is multiplied by a factor from 2 (garage) to 3 and even higher (brand). Two-thirds of the cost of a high-tech kitchen comes from fittings. Fittings for one kitchen drawer full extension Blum Tandembox Intivo costs a little less than $100, but each box will cost the end customer $200-$300. Not a bad cost-benefit, given the very easy to assemble and well-documented fittings, right? In practice, this is a profit of 100-200 dollars for 15 minutes of work. Do you want to do something out of the ordinary? No, that is absolutely impossible! But in fact, just no one wants to turn on the brains.

My neighbor's dressing room was completely and independently made by her sister. This got me thinking. If a girl did this, then am I, a big fan of crafts, with a diploma technical university, I will not make myself a kitchen with these strong and hairy hands? Of course I will, bitch!

So, the decision is made, we assemble the kitchen ourselves!

In search of our solution and style, my wife and I looked at thousands of photos different cuisines. As a result, we agreed that the lightness of the interior is above all and we do not need upper cabinets - we refuse them by force open shelves tempered glass. For the lower cabinets, the only right solution was chosen - full extension drawers. The undisputed leader in these solutions are the products of the Austrian company Blum, and we will work with them.

Of course, in any business there are many nuances, and the devil, as you know, is in the details. We replenish the theoretical base on the forums, on the site sdelaimebel.ru, which is very good for these purposes (see what kind of furniture people make with their own hands in the “Competition” section), we study photographs. The internet has all the answers.

We divide the work into stages:

Measurement

The simplest step, which, nevertheless, must be carried out with particular care. As you know, there are no right angles, and you, to the nearest millimeter, need to draw a drawing of the place where you want to place the kitchen, while indicating the location of the outlets for water, electricity, and all sorts of stupid pipes, if you have them.

Even at the repair stage, I bought a Leica Disto D2 laser rangefinder. This is a very convenient thing that will come in handy more than once in life, so you should not be stingy.

During the measurement, I was faced with the fact that the angle was not quite straight - 91 degrees. And this one degree will give us a five-centimeter hole between the wall and the ass of the last pedestal on a three-meter segment - this is if we assemble it “correctly”, at a right angle. Later I will show how I solved this problem without difficulty.

Design development

Kitchen furniture almost always has a modular design - that is, it consists of individual cabinets. The width of the cabinet is usually a multiple of 15 centimeters - 30, 45, 60, 75, 90, 120 cm. In fact, this is just a tribute to the unification of production, so nothing stops you from deviating from this standard. During assembly, kitchen cabinets are fastened together and covered with a tabletop - so the modularity of the design may not be obvious.

What does it represent kitchen cabinet? Bottom, two sidewalls, two narrow strips fastening the sidewalls from above (they do this only to save material) and the back wall is made of thin fiberboard. It is the foundation on which everything else hangs. Is it difficult to do this? Not at all. At the design stage, we do not even need to know how we will fasten all these parts together.

There are several popular furniture design programs. Some do it in AutoCAD, some do not use software at all and make drawings on paper. I used PRO100 - it is really simple to disgrace, you will get used to it in a couple of hours.

Here's what I got as a result of designing:

Everything about Blum products is great - just an example of German-Austrian engineering. Use the proprietary Blum Dynalog program and, as a result, you will receive drawings with all the markings necessary for installing fittings:

I will describe the design details below, using the example of photos of finished products.

Purchase of kitchen appliances

I recommend not to leave this stage "for later". At a minimum, it is desirable, if not to buy, then at least to clearly define what you will buy later and download all the documentation for these products. Oven, stove, sink - although they are made according to some kitchen standards, but may have design features. Making a kitchen without even imagining what kind of equipment you will put there is wrong, you are tormented. For example, I didn’t take everything into account with the oven - so the facade under the oven had to be additionally milled, which was not originally included in my plans.

I bought a Gorenje oven and induction hob, an Eleyus hood, a Franke Java sink, a faucet with a Grohe Blue filter system.

Order firewood (chipboard, fiberboard, facades)

I used to think that the production of furniture meant large workshops, expensive machines, dozens of people. It happens, of course, and so, but many work in garages. In order to produce furniture, you do not need to cut chipboard and make facades - dozens of people do this in large workshops on expensive machines. We are on our way there.

The result of the design should be an Excel file containing a list of all the panels we need. Here's one:

In terms of materials, my choice was as follows:

— Chipboard Egger Cappuccino 18mm as body material
– Chipboard Egger Platinum White 16mm as drawer material
- Egger fiberboard for the rear walls of the cases
– Painted MDF as facades

Now the nuance! The company where we will come has a chipboard warehouse program - these are the options for thicknesses and colors that they keep in stock all the time. large quantities. If the chipboard you need is in the warehouse program, you will pay for that much square meters how much you need. But if not included - you have to buy chipboard sheets. One sheet, in the case of chipboard Egger, is 5.8 sq.m. And if you need 6.3 sq.m. still have to buy two sheets.

Companies that are engaged in cutting and edging chipboard, the production of facades, today can be found in almost any regional center countries. You give them blueprints and money. They are for you - all your firewood in packaged form with delivery even to the apartment, although, for example, I had to sweat and drag these hundreds of kilograms from the entrance to the apartment.

Cutting and edging chipboard, fiberboard, facades, delivery - all this cost me $ 650.

Hardware order

No problem. But there is practically no point in scouring large construction hypermarkets - there are mainly inexpensive mass markets. It is better to find a decent furniture fitting company with a large assortment and buy everything there.

I bought:
- 12 sets for Blum Tandembox Intivo full extension drawers
– 2 hinges + bluemotion for the door under the washbasin
- 1 roll-out grid with a closer under the oven

Detail:

Purchasing a tool

In general, any handy kid already has some tools. I had to buy a Makita screwdriver, a Bosch jigsaw, clamps and a Wolfcraft jig.

I’ll warn you right away - there’s nothing to do without a screwdriver in assembling furniture! There's a hell of a lot of screws in there. And Chinese disposable crafts for 40 bucks will not help you. Need a serious good screwdriver. Do not be stingy, in life it will come in handy more than once.

So, at the beginning of the process we have:

First of all, we will take the firewood to the balcony and sort it into cabinets. Fortunately, each item has a sticker corresponding to the part number in the above parts list:

Well, let's get started!

Almost all Italian cabinet furniture is assembled on dowels (chopiki) - the advantage of this method is that no parts of the fasteners climb out, the disadvantage is that the furniture assembled on dowels is non-separable. For such purposes, furniture makers prefer confirmation - it is much less demanding in terms of tolerances.

The connection on the dowels requires an accuracy of fitting the reciprocal holes of 0.5 millimeters. Such a result is difficult to achieve without the use of special tool. So I bought this tool:

So, our task is to assemble the first cabinet and understand whether our hands are growing from the ass, or still from the shoulders. We take the sidewall, we will make holes that will be connected to the bottom with dowels. Pay attention to the drilling depth gauge on the drill. What it is for, I hope it is not necessary to explain. Bzzzin:

Here's what we got:

Holes on the sides - 40 mm. from the edges, center in the middle. Sidewall width (it matters, I'll tell you later) - 560 mm. The conductor works in the mode of both drilling reciprocal holes and copying. Copy to the second side. This is the principle of operation of the conductor for drilling reciprocal holes, I show the example of the drawer:

Let me remind you that when connecting to dowels, the accuracy of drilling the reciprocal holes (plus or minus half a millimeter) is important. With these tools, I have never had a problem with this - the parts fit into each other with little effort. This device will greatly save your time - for the sake of interest, I tried to do manual marking on test pieces of chipboard - this is many times more time and a much higher probability of error.

Here is the bottom of the box with counter holes already drilled for the sidewalls:

I drilled 20 holes and voila, my hands don't grow out of my ass:

moving on

Now we need to equip the cabinet with drawer guides, legs and a back wall made of fiberboard. There is nothing complicated in mounting the guides - all in the same Blum Dynalog program, you get the exact dimensions of the points where the guides will be attached. One rule applies here - measure seven times, cut one:

Just like two and two. If you make a mistake within 3 millimeters, everything will still work fine. Excellent technique!

Mounting the legs is also not difficult. The main thing is to set yourself a standard for their location and follow it on all pedestals:

Another pedestal (the widest, 80 cm) is ripe. It already has guides and legs.

You should not worry at all due to some fragility of the product - as soon as the back wall is mounted - the cabinet will be filled with pleasant strength. Shown here First stage back fixings - the bottom is fastened with two screws on the sides, the diagonals and angles are measured, the top is fastened with a clamp to the side. Now you can safely peel the screws (after making a preliminary drilling with a two-millimeter drill):

Well, as if there is already progress:

Preparing facades. On the left side of the façade is a drilling jig (the same Wolfcraft), to the right is a hand drill:

Unfortunately, I did not film the process of assembling the boxes, but with this fitting it is a very simple job. One box takes 10-15 minutes. Three hours of work and the facades are already on the boxes:

Here a jigsaw came into play - I sawed holes for sockets with it, after which I asked for an open cut. Well, I hung the filter control unit and the holder of the filter itself:

When all the cabinets were ready, it was time to reunite them. At this stage, it is important, by adjusting the legs, to bring them into level - that is, the top of the cabinets should lie in the same plane. We clamp the cabinets together with clamps, and be sure to make a “lining” - a wooden block into which the drill will come out. If this is not done, serious chips will appear at the exit hole.

Well, we mount the hinges - crocodiles, as real furniture makers call them (I'm not real). The holes for the hinges were ordered - in general, you can make them yourself, for this there is a Faustner drill.

I brought a countertop, Luxeform Boston 38 mm. I asked to make cutouts, they did, but look how interesting it is:

Basically, they are right. Transporting a massive table with a full cutout is a risk - it can break. I had to work with a jigsaw. The cut must be covered with silicone - open chipboard end will quickly swell if this is not done. Well, here you can also see how the issue with an obtuse angle was resolved - everything is very simply leveled. Naturally, I previously made a drawing with geometry calculation.

A small ambush was waiting with a shell. The instructions say "Comrade, take the core and fuck it well in the center of the sticker." With reverse side, in the place where the holes should be, a cut was made - that's just like on the countertop. I took the core, took the hammer and let's, carefully so, bale on the sink for $ 500. The hand did not rise, the heart contracted. In general, I despised the instructions, made holes in a circle, after which I poked it once, processed it with a file and everything became fine:

I also dealt with plumbing.

Oh, how I exhausted myself with the choice of a faucet ... Filtered water is needed, but I didn’t want to bring out this vile additional faucet at all - I set out to find a faucet with both filtered and tap water. The choice of such mixers on the market is extremely scarce. I was wildly delighted when I found such a thing as Grohe Blue. Its charm, as it were, is that it is not only a mixer, but also a branded filter, and I am ready to trust a company like Grohe blindly. In the end, we are very satisfied.

Making a kitchen with your own hands, from designing a kitchen set to installing and connecting built-in appliances, is not an easy task for a home master. On the other hand, a modern kitchen is nothing more than a set of cabinet furniture, many elements of which are standardized, and the assembly technology does not differ from the manufacture of more "simple" home furnishings.

If you have not yet had to make furniture from chipboard, I recommend reading this one, and as the first products, you can advise you to assemble, for example, a wardrobe. Personally, I acted according to the described scheme and at some point "grew" to making a kitchen with my own hands.

What cuisine are we planning to make?

Our kitchen has an area of ​​about 8.5 meters, a large three-leaf window and a fairly convenient door location. As a window sill, when installing new windows, I installed chipboard worktop 38 mm thick. Its height above the floor (920 mm.) sets the parameters of the lower section, as it is planned to combine everything into a single working area.

In fact, we need to design corner set, with a total length of 4 running meters, which will be located along two walls and close the space under the windowsill with facades, resulting in a U-shaped kitchen.

Like any sane person, not burdened with extra money, he wanted "budget", but he understood that it makes sense to save only on things that do not affect the functionality of the system. Therefore, the facades in the kitchen will be made of MDF, covered with a film, and not natural veneer, but the fittings will have a margin for durability and reliability.

The design of the kitchen provides for... What does it provide for?! I need to place a bunch of things that are used on the farm in this space and make it convenient and work - this is the main message. Color solution and the choice of the most beautiful form of handles are subjective things and should be taken at the family council, so I’ll just show you what happened with us. I do not dare to recommend that this is beautiful, but this is not.

I did not make the whole kitchen project in PRO 100, I only calculated individual complex elements. sketch and general arrangement structures of the lower and upper tiers, of course, is necessary, but creating a 3D model with an accurate transfer of texture and shadows is only if you don’t feel sorry for your time.

The traditional photograph of the brought cut (this is only a part) reminds us that even a small kitchen consists of a significant number of details.

We start assembly and subsequent installation from the corner bottom pedestal. As a rule, this is the location of the sink and, accordingly, the water supply and drain pipes pass through this element.

We collect cabinets

All pedestals have a depth of 500 mm, and with a tabletop depth of 600 mm. we get an overhang in front of 50 mm. and correspondingly, free space between the wall and the cabinet is also 50 mm. Is this a lot or is it normal? 18 mm facades will be added in front, but there will also be handles - in my case 30 mm., So, an overhang of 50 mm. quite justified.

The pipes, the hose for the hob and, in addition, the gas meter pass through with a gap of 50 mm to the wall. (if we take into account the thickness of the tile on the backsplash and the pressing of the countertop not to zero, then all 60). But the desire to win a couple of centimeters of depth that occurs at the design stage is not justified. For a section with drawers, this does not play a role, but with the rest of the cabinets it will only make confusion. We just order 12 sidewalls for six pedestals, all of the same size, convenient and understandable.

AT corner cabinet there are 3 connections, two of them in the region of the back wall and are located vertically. The third, with a vertical arrangement, will reduce access to the inside, and with a horizontal arrangement, it will have to be sawn along with the countertop to install the sink. I went the second way and had to shorten the confirmations, but when the door is opened, there is no bar covering the opening.

All cabinets are assembled according to the principle of false bottom, that is, the sidewalls are on the base. Each pedestal is installed on 4 adjustable supports (6 pieces for the sink), which are subsequently closed with a plinth. In order not to rest with your feet when approaching the working area of ​​​​the kitchen, the plinth is recessed deep into.

The distance from the front edge of the pedestal to the base of the support is 55 mm, which in practice gives a normal appearance and ease of use.

Having collected all the cabinets on one side of the corner, they can be leveled and pulled together with ties.

Chipboard tabletop

AT corner kitchen countertops are connected in at least one place. For this, connecting strips are provided that repeat the shape of the mating surfaces. Quite convenient, except that you need to make a selection from below to install the tightening stud.

I was especially interested in whether the connection would be reliable if the installation of the tightening element was abandoned. I was attaching a countertop to a window sill of the same material, and my question was addressed to a professional furniture maker specifically at the expense of this section.

In fact, the window sill stands firmly and does not allow the connection to diverge. The pedestal, on which the joint will rest, is located in such a way that it allows screwing screws through the body of its cover into both the window sill and the tabletop to be attached. I assumed that this would be enough, but the specialist's answer was categorical: "definitely not!" This is worth considering and not taking risks, especially since the solution is not so complicated.

We saw off the countertop along the length and give, if necessary, the required shape. A feather drill, a hacksaw and a chisel will help you make the right selection.

Now you can put the tabletop back in place. I would very much like to perform this procedure only once, but it just so happens that the lack of proper experience makes you pay with unnecessary manipulations. I had to remove and put back in place twice, which in conditions small room Kitchens are not only inconvenient, but also increase the risk of damage.

Putting the tabletop in its place and grabbing it with self-tapping screws through the connections, we get a kind of workbench on which you can cut out. But there is one problem: when we saw wood, we get sawdust, and when we saw sawdust, we get fine dust, in the case of chipboard countertops - green. You will have to remove it because of the installed pedestals, which is very inconvenient. I had to take it off again and saw it in an open place.

We install and connect the hob. Nothing complicated, everything is quite clearly described in the attached instructions. At the Gorenie brewing company, there are two ways to fix the device to the countertop: mini brackets with self-tapping fixation and wedges. I got wedges, which, in my opinion, should be called "no room for error", since during installation the surface is pressed in until it stops. You can’t take it back out - the wedges work on the principle of a fishing hook.

The junction of the countertop with the window sill began to look like this:

Electrical connection

Moving sockets and switches when installing a new kitchen set is a common occurrence. Of course, it’s good when, during the repair, you have a project for the future kitchen in your hands and all the wiring is done for it. I didn’t have a project and this is what it led to.

There is a washing machine in the kitchen and a separate machine is placed under the group of sockets in the niche. I did not imagine that we would choose as oven electric and place it on the countertop. I had to move sockets. The only thing that pleases, in the case of the kitchen, you can make external wiring, anyway, nothing will be visible behind the cabinets.

I also miscalculated with the hob during the repair. For electric ignition, in any case, a connection is required and this must be remembered. It’s good that there are sockets nearby and you can stretch the wire through drywall in a few minutes.

There are two more consumers of electricity present in any modern kitchen. This is a hood located above the stove and lighting the working area. Here, my approximate calculations almost coincided with what was actually needed when installing kitchen furniture. The error is only a few centimeters, the benefit is to the side that will be closed.

The conclusion suggests itself - the location of sockets, lamps and the layout of wires is optimally carried out with a finished project in hand. This way you save time, money and own forces, and the installation of kitchen appliances will be much easier.

Cabinet for washing machine

How do you make a cabinet in a kitchen set designed for installation washing machine? The correct answer is none. In the case when the machine is located between two full-fledged cabinets, they simply leave space for it and cover everything with a single table top. We have a different layout and had to come up with our own design.

It is assumed that the machine will be closed by a facade, so an additional sidewall has been added to the last pedestal. As a material savings, it is quite possible to limit yourself to a bar that allows you to fully install the hinges.

The second sidewall of this conditional pedestal also consists of two layers of chipboard different sizes in height. Adjustable supports on the M6 ​​thread are installed in the lower end. Details are connected by furniture couplers.

Scraps from two countertops were enough to cover the car with only additional docking. It added an extra connection bar and took away from the aesthetics, but it still works.

A ledge 16 mm deep is made at the end of the tabletop, at a distance of 550 mm. Therefore, there is a pressing to the part made of light laminated chipboard and leaning on the dark one. Additionally, three confirmations are screwed into the end of the tabletop through the body of the light part.

Before replacing the washing machine, I laid a piece of sheet rubber on the floor, sold in the "household" under the name "rubber mat". This is an additional measure that prevents the machine from shifting during operation, however, this rug resists installation in a cabinet with the same force.

The next module to be assembled is a place for installing an oven. Of the design features, only the presence of a gap for air circulation can be noted. In my case, this is the right wall and the lid - they are 30 mm. don't reach the wall.

The lid is planted on dowels, in contrast to the bottom fastening, which is made on confirmations and will be closed with a plinth.

Drawers

It's no secret that different drawer systems are the basis modern kitchen. But many experience an unpleasant feeling when they get acquainted with the prices of various turnkey solutions from European manufacturers. The number of boxes that you want to have in your kitchen, multiplied by the number of dollars at which the seller evaluates them, is by no means equal to the number of rubles that are supposed to be spent on this purchase.

How can you save money and not lose in functionality and reliability? We need drawers that are built to our exact dimensions, fully extendable, and have a smooth closing action.

The meaning of all ready systems extensions, this is the sale of a set of guides and parts of parts for creating boxes of various sizes. When purchasing a kit, you do not receive a fully assembled set for assembling a drawer, but you are forced to order a cut of parts of the parts - usually the bottom of the drawer and the back wall.

If you go to make the boxes completely out of chipboard, you can significantly reduce costs. In this case, guides are used concealed installation produced by the same manufacturers. The design process must begin with the choice of guides, since the design of the box is tied to technical features extension mechanism.

I used guides from Blum, with a dynamic load of up to 40 and 60 kg. The photo shows that the sides of the box protrude below the bottom plane (13 mm.). All recommendations on filler sizes and installation features are in the manufacturer's catalog.

At the expense of Blum, I would like to say a few words. Recommending the purchase of accessories from this manufacturer is like advising the purchase of Mercedes cars. There are a lot of manufacturers and Blum is one of the most famous. Its products are reliable, functional, durable and, as a result, not cheap.

But is it always justified to purchase all the kitchen accessories of this particular brand? A similar question was raised on the profile forum and this is what the collective mind decided: there is one type of common device where alternatives to Blum in various parameters simply do not exist. This is the Aventos HF folding lift.

Regarding the loops, guides and other things, the opinion of the members of the forum was not so categorical. Actually, I was going to buy lifts from Blum, and I had already chosen guides and hinges and was going to buy from Grass, but a trip to the Perm representative office of Blum changed my plans.

In addition to the fact that they offered me a lower price for the lift than indicated on the website, the issue was also resolved in favor of Blum on the guides. With a difference of 150 rubles per set, I think the choice is obvious.

In total, the kitchen will have two modules with drawers, four in each. The bottom one is made for storing large dishes and has a useful depth of 240 mm. The other three are equal in height and can accommodate objects up to 110 mm.

This is a cabinet over which a hob is installed. Pay attention to the installation of links, they are located under the top drawer and do not block the air circulation necessary during operation gas burners. Slots in 6 mm. between the front of the top drawer and the worktop is enough for air exchange.

Pay attention to the filler dimensions when assembling the boxes, since for two outwardly similar guides of the same company, but with different articles, an important parameter for assembly may change. I did not ask for dimensions in the company's catalog, but simply scored in the search for "installing Blum guides" and performed drilling according to the scheme from the article. The result is an error in the location of the blind hole in the back wall of the box.

It is good that such a mistake can be corrected with the help of dowels and a drop of PVA. We drive the beech dowel into the hole, having previously applied glue.

We saw off flush with the plane and mark the center of the new drilling with an awl.

After these steps, the box is confidently fixed on the guide and works properly. Since the corrected hole is located on the outer part of the back wall, no one will see the error and its correction.

Kitchen hanging cabinets

Here are some questions I had during the design process:

  • What are the dimensions for kitchen cabinets are applicable, that is, their range and what size is optimal (used in industrial series and therefore tested comprehensively)?
  • What canopies are optimal for attaching lockers?
  • How to calculate the facade for corner cabinet?

The fact that the width of the wall cabinets can be anything and depends solely on the ease of use and overall design, becomes clear when viewing kitchen catalogs. Looking at the parameters of Ikea products, you can determine that, in their understanding, a cabinet height of 100 cm is a common practice. We have installed in our kitchen forced ventilation, boxed and the maximum that can be counted on does not exceed 75 cm.

In the Western standard, the most common depth of a cabinet without a facade is 37 cm, which can also be considered a kind of guideline. Although, in the matter of depth, it is much more important to proceed from the minimum. It can be determined by the characteristics of fittings and equipment used in the cabinet for drying dishes. In my case, the allowable minimum was 310 mm. In practice, it turns out that we choose a drying rack for dishes and a lift - their dimensions and installation requirements will set the parameters of the wall cabinets in depth.

Adjustable canopies are plastic (only some of the parts are made of steel) and all-metal. The difference in price is about 2-3 times. Plastic manufacturers claim that permissible load calculated with a margin, etc., but there were precedents for a fall. Of course, this can be attributed to an insignificant percentage of marriage, but somehow I don’t want to check it myself. So I chose completely metal.

The calculation of the size of the facade for a corner cabinet is devoted to a sufficient amount of materials on the profile forum. But the disputes do not subside, and when ordering, I did not leave the feeling that there was an error somewhere. For straight cabinets and cabinets, the calculation algorithm is clear - the width of the case is minus 3 mm. or 4 mm., if you want to see the gap between the facades bigger size. For a corner cabinet, the calculated width of the facade depends, among other things, on its thickness.

I ordered facades from MDF 16 mm thick. and used the formula: facade width = opening size + 1 mm. In my case, the size of the opening is 400 mm, respectively, the facade is 401 mm. Everything works and opens, but be it 1 mm. wider, opening problems cannot be avoided.

With the installation of a corner cabinet, the installation of a row begins hinged modules. But first you need to fix the mounting plate. In my case, the walls are made of drywall, and one wall is a partition sheathed with a double layer of plasterboard. Therefore, it is extremely important to get screws into the racks.

Unobtrusive domestic service - not all the details of the cut arrived the first time ...

Connecting the hood is complicated by the fact that you have to connect to an already installed forced hood. But when buying, I was only interested in one parameter - the noise level during operation. Of course the manufacturers lie. They indicate in the tables the noise level for the first position of the power regulator. Turn on 3 and you will feel all the decibels that you forgot to mention.

On the sides of the hood there are two cabinets, when assembling which, it is better to use dowels, in any case, to fix the bottom. I got a little carried away when drilling and first assembled like this:

Glue, clamps and beech dowels will allow you to change the look without losing strength.

While you are waiting for the facades, life in the kitchen goes on and, accordingly, the photographs are somewhat different from the production samples flaunting in the catalogs...

A niche under the window sill made it possible to organize a small storage compartment.

I did not assemble the cabinets on legs, but assembled the plinth and bottom into one structure, which will be attached "tightly" to the wall.

The heating battery must not be closed. In addition, I wanted to have easy access to it, but hide it out of sight. We decided to close the facade in the form of a frame and pull the rattan from the inside. It turned out that the paint fits perfectly on the rattan, and the process of attaching to the frame is not too complicated.

facades

By this time, all the facades were ready and safely delivered to the apartment. Making a kitchen using MDF facades covered with a film is not only economical profitable solution, but also the possibility the widest choice color scheme. This option kitchen facades well suited for use by those who do not have serious experience in making furniture. Film pattern "under the tree" will never replace the tactile sensations from touching the facades of wood. But if there is an extra 100 thousand for noble material, then, as a rule, the question of "do it yourself" is not so relevant.

The process of installing facades is a pleasant experience and brings a lot of positive emotions, as you can finally see the final product of your many days of effort. It is assumed that all strikers for the hinges were installed during the assembly of cabinets and cabinets.

Pay attention to the extremely convenient template for marking the installation of the striker. I bought together with Blum hinges and I can say that the thing is very convenient and saves a lot of time.

I install the hinges to the facades using a bar, which is pressed against two hinges at the same time. sets them to their correct position.

We hang facades and adjust the size of the gaps.

This completes the process of making a kitchen with your own hands. Behind the scenes, there was a backlight located at the bottom of the hanging boxes. These are 4 overhead LED spotlights, flat - about 30 mm. in height.

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