How to change cast iron plastic pipes. How to replace cast-iron sewer pipes with plastic ones: step-by-step instructions. Why cast iron is being replaced with plastic

Heat the pipe, softening the sulfur mass that sealed it, and continue to swing. It is convenient to hold the pipe with pliers or an adjustable plumbing wrench.

After the pipe has been removed, clean the socket seat of any residual sulfur or carbolic acid. When using chisels or chisels, be careful not to break the bell.

All this many hours of vigil with loosening of the pipe can be avoided while replacing the riser. Old pipes are broken, taken out and taken out. Along with sulphur, carbolic and trumpets. New ones are installed in their place. The space between floors is filled mounting foam. Even the soundproofing is improved.

Polyvinyl chloride pipes are increasingly used for laying external sewerage, since they do not form plaque and rust, and they are also of low cost. Read carefully -: features of installation and laying in the ground.

How to solder properly different kinds plastic pipes read.

Installing a new

1. A rubber cuff is put on the upper cut of the cast-iron pipe. The connection is carefully lubricated with sealant.
2. A plastic adapter is installed on the cuff from above.
3. At the bottom, a second rubber adapter is inserted into the socket.
4. The compensator is installed in the tee, each connection is carefully coated with sealant.
5. The pipe is firmly fixed with clamps on the wall to avoid displacement.

It is important to accurately calculate your strengths and capabilities when carrying out such work of increased complexity. Replacing a sewer riser is a job for an experienced team of plumbers.

In the event of a mistake and a sewer break, the cost of the mistake can be very high.

Related video

Previously, the basis of sewer networks in houses was made up of cast-iron pipes. Today they have been replaced by more practical, plastic structures. Replacing cast iron sewer pipes with plastic ones is a problem that interests many, as old systems are already worn out and need to be updated. How to replace cast-iron pipes in an apartment with plastic ones? This issue requires detailed consideration.

Cast iron pipes - the basis of sewer networks earlier. However, they do wear out over time and need to be replaced.

Why cast iron is being replaced with plastic

Before considering in detail the issue of replacing water supply and sewerage pipelines in an apartment, let's figure out why plastic products are preferred today.

Plastic and other polymers are a fairly young material that has been actively used for only a few decades. Before its appearance, cast iron was used everywhere in the public sector. It was affordable, provided durability and reliability.

With the advent of plastic, the situation has changed. It displaced cast iron due to its cost, availability, and other advantages.

Advantages plastic elements over cast iron counterparts:

1. Durability. The designated period of effective operation is about 50 years.
2. Resistance to corrosion processes.
3. Light weight.
4. Perfect smoothness internal surfaces reduces the likelihood of blockages.
5. Low thermal conductivity.
6. Environmental Safety.
7. Ease of use, flexibility.
8. Applications in networks of external and internal lines of water supply and sewerage.

Plastic structures also have a number of disadvantages that should be considered when choosing them. The disadvantages include:

1. Restrictions for use in plumbing hot water and heating.
2. Low resistance to constant exposure to direct sunlight.
3. Decrease in strength and reliability characteristics over time.
4. Higher noise level during operation compared to cast iron counterparts.
5. Impossibility of use for fire networks.
6. Differences in the mounting system various types and types of polymers, which complicates the "mixed" use.

Today, the following types of materials are used in the municipal sector:

• polyvinyl chloride (PVC);
• polypropylene (PP);
• polyethylene (PE);
• cross-linked polyethylene (PEX);
• metal-plastic.

Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages.

In what cases is it worth replacing cast-iron pipes with plastic ones? If the old metal sewerage system is working properly, there are no visible visual defects, you should not rush to replace it.

Replacement is necessary in the following cases:

1. Accident.
2. Significant visible defects and deterioration of old networks.
3. Repair in the apartment (it is better to make a replacement in the course of implementation repair work so that it does not have to be repaired again in the event of an accident or wear).
4. Remodeling work.

It is quite difficult to replace pipes in an apartment on your own.

This work is carried out in several stages:

1. Inspection of existing networks.
2. Preparation of plans and drawings.
3. Calculation of the amount of materials.
4. Purchase of necessary items.
5. Preparation of tools and facilities.
6. Test assembly of the new system.
7. Demolition of old structures.
8. Installation of a new system.
9. Connection and performance testing. Troubleshoot if found.

Preparatory activities

Replacing pipes with plastic ones begins with the stage of inspecting the replacement site and calculating required amount materials. A detailed inspection will allow you to see difficult areas, determine possible options simpler and more competent laying. Replacing sewer lines can be significantly more complicated if a riser needs to be replaced. This point should always be taken into account.

The quantity of materials is determined by the area on which the replacement will be made. This aspect also depends on the features of the plan. sewer wiring. If the new line is completely consistent with the old one, it is very easy to make the calculation. The number of straight pipes, their length, the number of connecting and other elements are measured.

If the layout sewer system will be changed, it is worth making calculations especially carefully. It is recommended to draw up a drawing for a visual display of all elements. Do not forget about the basic requirements for the installation of a sewer system.

What details may be required:

1. Knee.
2. Corner.
3. Tees: straight or angled.
4. The coupling is connecting.
5. Reducing tee, reduction (transition of pipes of different diameters).
6. Stub.

Details that may be required to build a sewer system

To perform work on replacing water pipes in an apartment, you will need the following tool:

• chisel;
• a hammer;
• impact drill, perforator;
• level;
• roulette;
• grinder, saw;
• sealant;
• goggles, respirator;
• pencil, marker.

In some cases, when connected structural elements a torch or blowtorch may be required. With their help strong and tight welding is made.

Before starting dismantling, it is worth making a test assembly of the new system. To do this, pipes and other elements are laid out on the floor at the place where the sewer network passes. Compliance with the configuration, length and other parameters is checked. Sections in the walls and other nuances are measured conditionally.

Dismantling

Before starting work on dismantling, the water in the house is turned off. If the riser is also removed, you need to warn the neighbors upstairs so that they do not use the water and toilet for the next few hours.

Initially, the wiring from the riser around the apartment is dismantled. Disassembly starts from the sink, tub and toilet. Particular attention should be paid to areas in the walls. Here the cement mortar is beaten off, with which the pipe was fixed. During disassembly, removal fasteners from the wall. Then the pipes are pulled out. For convenience, they can be cut into pieces.

In the area of ​​​​the connection with the riser, the pipes are carefully incised in two sections (the width of the notch is 10-15 cm). The trimmed residue is carefully pulled out of the riser tee.

The riser pipe is sawn in two places: at the top, at a distance of about 10 cm from the ceiling, and at the bottom, at a distance of about 60 cm. The grinder makes an incision in the riser in two places. The distance between the incisions is 15-20 cm. After that, the riser is pulled out of the pipe.

Work must be done carefully so that the sections of the riser in the upper and lower apartments remain intact. The upper section during the work must be fixed. It is important not to damage the riser in the ceiling. You don’t have to worry about this if work is carried out to replace the riser throughout the “vertical of the house”.

Installation

Markings are drawn at the places where the system passes. The intended places of fixation to the wall, the level of inclination, the distance from the floor are indicated.

Cutting of pipes is carried out strictly at a right angle without distortions. Particular attention should be paid to chamfering (beveling the end edge for a snug fit with another part). There should be no bumps, hooks, burrs, etc. on the chamfer. They are carefully removed with a file or sandpaper.

Appearance of the machined chamfer (beveled end edge for a snug fit with another part)

A gasket is inserted into the socket, which is treated with a sealant for fixation. The bells must necessarily face the flow of water. Assembly is carried out in sequence from the riser to plumbing fixtures(down up). The connection to the toilet is made with corrugated pipe. All joints are additionally treated with sealant.

When connecting pipes, a gap of at least 100 mm must be left. It will ensure safety as a result of a change in dyne under the influence of thermal expansion.

To do this, the pipe is inserted into the socket or other part "up to the stop". The connection level is fixed with a line. From the mark, the pipe extends 100 mm. So, under the influence of temperature there will be no deformation and leakage.

Fixing to the wall is done with clamps. They are fixed in the area of ​​the bell. Fasteners are mounted at certain intervals:

• vertical pipe - every 100-150 mm;
• horizontal - through a distance equal to ten diameters.

Clamps are used on bolts with a rubber seal.

sewer riser

Change cast iron riser without good reason is not recommended. To carry out such work is quite problematic and difficult. If it is impossible to do without replacing the riser, it is done first.

A branch pipe is placed in the cut pipe until it stops and is fixed with a sealant. Test assembly of the remaining elements of the riser is carried out, without sealing and installation gaskets. If everything fits in length, the final installation is made.

Replacing a cast-iron riser with a plastic one provides for the fulfillment of several mandatory requirements:

1. A pipe with diameters of 100-110 mm is used as a riser.
2. On the stand in without fail installed inspection hatch, which is blocked by twisting the sealed plug.
3. Sewer pipes are brought to the riser at a certain angle.
4. The riser must have on the lower section: a tee, a revision and a coupling.
5. The new riser is inserted into the socket of the downpipe. If this cannot be done, the connection is made using a special coupling. For top mount coupler is also used.
6. The riser is fixed with at least three fasteners (with standard height ceiling).

The slope of the supply of plastic pipes ensures the rapid removal of water and waste, prevents the formation of blockages and "plugs".

It is better to replace the riser along the entire height of the house (in all apartments). If the riser changes in only one apartment, the work should be done very carefully so that fragments and debris do not get into the system. Otherwise, clogging may occur.

When the replacement of sewer pipes from cast iron to plastic is completed, its effective operation is checked. To do this, a large amount of water is passed through all the branches of the system. If the riser is replaced, ask the neighbors from the “upper” apartments to spill water. If there are no leaks, the system can be used. First time (month) preventive measures, it is better to periodically inspect all elements of the new apartment sewer system.

All houses built in Soviet time, it is necessary to change the pipes, in particular the sewer riser. All equipment has an expiration date. The pipes wear out, cracks appear on them, and drains seep through them and the stench spreads into the room. It becomes impossible to live in such an apartment.

To prevent the situation from reaching such a state, as soon as a leak is suspected, it is recommended to replace the sewer with a plastic one.

Replacing a cast iron pipe with a plastic one

This should be done service organizations, since the cast-iron riser is very difficult to replace. However, it is possible to do it with your own hands.

Pipeline selection and required tools

In old houses, all pipes were installed from cast iron, including sewer pipes. Of course, it is very durable and reliable material but it also has an expiration date. Therefore, sooner or later, the time comes when it needs to be replaced.

Modern risers are made from even more durable material, which is also light and outwardly more aesthetic. Masters recommend switching to this more practical material. Steel or galvanized pipes will need to be replaced in ten to twenty years again. But if you make a replacement for polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride, then their operation is guaranteed for up to thirty to fifty years. And often it stretches over an even longer period.

And if, along with the replacement, you also take care of good ventilation, which can be purchased complete with pipes, then you can simply forget about sewer odors.

Before starting work on dismantling the pipeline, you need to make sure that all the tools necessary for this are at hand.

Since it is necessary to replace the cast-iron sewer with a plastic one in high-rise building, pre-shut off the water. Therefore, the work is done as quickly as possible.

Also, neighbors from above are warned not to use the toilet and water, otherwise everything will be sent to your apartment, and the neighbors below will be flooded.

To dismantle the sewer riser, the following tools are required:

• Bulgarian;
• nail puller;
• a large screwdriver to remove small items from the system;
• chisel;
• perforator;
• a hammer;
• grinder;
• film for covering the pipe hole;
• apron, gloves and goggles for personal protection.

Dismantling of the old sewer

Having decided on an independent replacement of the riser, it is best to negotiate with the neighbors so that, if necessary, they can provide access to the apartments. However, in most cases, the replacement takes place exclusively in your apartment between the floor and ceiling.

Before changing cast iron sewer on plastic, see the diagram of this pipeline.

Step-by-step instructions for removing the riser are as follows:

1. A distance of ten centimeters from the ceiling surface and eighty from the tee is calculated. Two cuts are made by a grinder. The depth should be half the diameter of the pipe.
2. A chisel is applied to the upper notch and beaten with a hammer. Then repeat the same manipulation below. The blows must be applied with sufficient force to split the pipe so that the middle part is removed.
3. The pipe from the ceiling is closed with a polyethylene film.
4. When disassembling the lower part, consisting of a tee and other fittings, arm yourself with a nail puller or crowbar to loosen the fasteners. Then remove the fitting. But basically it requires extra work with perforator. With it, the cement on the fasteners is removed.
5. Cement is chipped off with a chisel or screwdriver, and then the tee is removed. If it didn’t work out, the fitting is cut off with a grinder, retreating up to three centimeters from the socket.
6. In the remaining places, all contaminants are removed and the cast iron is cleaned with a grinder.

Pipe installation

After removing the old pipeline, you must immediately install a new one so as not to cause unnecessary inconvenience to neighbors. But they begin the process, like the previous one, by checking all the tools necessary for this.

The following equipment is required for installation:

• pipes with a diameter of one hundred and ten centimeters;
• outlet tee of the same material as the riser;
• rubber sealing cuffs to fix the fasteners between protruding cast iron stumps and a plastic pipe;
• branch pipe for transition from cast iron to plastic and vice versa;
• pipe fittings;
• soap used to facilitate entry into the mounts, that is, a kind of lubricant;
• vertical building level.

Installation takes place in the reverse order compared to dismantling:

1. Rubber cuffs are inserted into the pipe cut.
2. Attach the adapter from above, and the tee from below. All parts must be fastened as tightly as possible to ensure maximum tightness. With the free movement of the tee, the connection is sealed with silicone sealant or winding of flax.
3. The plastic riser is fixed with clamps. If the ceiling height is standard, then they usually manage with three pieces: for the top, bottom and middle. If it is high, then you need to purchase additional connections.
4. The system is pre-assembled.
5. A pipe must be lowered into the tee to connect plastic and cast iron.
6. Each mount is lubricated with silicone sealant and waiting for it to solidify.
7. Then turn on the water and check the pipe connections for leaks. If everything is in order, then this part of the work can be considered completed.

Noise isolation and causes

Of course, PVC and polypropylene pipes are much better than cast iron pipes. They last longer, have an aesthetic appearance and are much cheaper. However, they have one major drawback. This is noise. At first, even experienced specialists did not know how to deal with this. But today, as soon as pipes are installed, they begin to deal with noise and sound insulation. It's not hard at all to do this on your own. Therefore, do not be afraid! Having done such work, you will forget what the noise from the pipe is.

One way to achieve the effect of soundproofing does not yet exist. Therefore, different ones are used, depending on the design, acoustic features and the presence of certain materials.

Why do cast iron pipes make no sound, while modern plastic pipes are so noisy? After conducting special studies, several causes of extraneous sounds from the riser were revealed. Among them are:

• impact sounds occur when the contents hit the walls of the pipes, making noise;
• atmospheric phenomena occur when the wind howls, the sound of rain or even hail;
• resonance manifestations appear during the transmission of extraneous noise;
• vibration sounds are transmitted from the whole structure, the movement of underground transport, and so on.

The pipe itself, due to its shape, suggests the possibility of perception and transmission of different nature of sounds. But the material from which it is made is also important. Those cast-iron risers that still stand in old buildings do not make noise for this very reason. After all, it is not completely metal. It is an alloy that consists of different grains that differ in composition and properties. Due to this, sound absorption is ensured, as the grains rub against each other and reduce vibration.

In addition, such pipes are coated from the inside, which in itself plays the role of an excellent sound insulator, despite the fact that the movement of wastewater slows down.

Installation of soundproofing

The main task of soundproofing in an apartment is to minimize noise and, if possible, dampen vibration.

The ideal option is to purchase special noise-absorbing pipes. Some companies manufacture and install such risers. They include plastic with the addition of mineral powder. This provides a material having properties similar to cast iron. However, these pipes are expensive and may not be affordable for many. In addition, their service life, as a rule, does not exceed twenty years.

Therefore, plastic pipes are mainly used for replacement, followed by insulation from noise and sound.

They are isolated from the walls with damper clamps, and from the ceilings - with polyurethane foam plates.

In order to eliminate unpleasant gurgling in pipes, polyurethane foam or polystyrene is used. Both the riser and the wiring are wrapped around so that sound is not transmitted.

In addition, you can use polyethylene foam, but such material is extremely short-lived and can begin to sour and even stick after the first hot summer.

Replacing the sewer riser - although hard work, but even a beginner can handle it. However, if you are not confident in your abilities or the pipes in the house are very rusty, then it is better to resort to the help of specialists and entrust the work to them, because otherwise you risk flooding both your apartment and your neighbors from below.

Everyone who has at least once carried out a major overhaul in an apartment knows how important it is to replace sewer pipes. Here it is necessary to strictly adhere to a certain sequence of actions. Only in this way can you achieve High Quality executed works. In this article, we will tell you how to replace the sewer riser, dismantle its section, and also give recommendations for replacing cast iron pipeline on plastic.

If you decide to do the replacement of the pipeline yourself, you must strictly follow the instructions of professionals and manufacturers. You also need to carefully select quality materials and the tools you need to get the job done.

The need to replace the sewer riser usually arises during a complete overhaul or if your cast iron system is already so outdated and rusty that the only right decision is a complete replacement.

To ensure the proper functioning of the water discharge system, all flare points must be located in the direction of the water flow. This will provide easy access when connecting new sewer pipes to the riser.

Also, do not forget about safety precautions and use personal protective equipment. See installation recommendations from manufacturers and professional locksmiths.

Failure to comply with the norms when replacing the sewer riser can lead to undesirable consequences which will lead to additional financial costs in the future. For example, the ingress of particles of old cast iron into plumbing system Houses.

If you feel like you can't do the job yourself, it's best to leave it to the professionals. If you decide to do everything yourself, then be patient and.

Plastic pipes proved to be much better in operation, so all experts recommend using them exclusively. Thanks to its smooth surface they will not allow impurities and bacteria to collect on their inner surface, as happens in the case of using cast iron pipes. Therefore, you do not have to clean the pipeline often.

The material for the manufacture of such pipes is polyvinyl chloride, polypropylene and polyethylene. low pressure. They are not only easy to install, but also easy to use.

Dismantling of the old sewer system

To properly change the sewer riser, you first need to carry out. At this stage, it is very important to do everything according to the instructions, otherwise new system will not function properly.

It should be noted that it is best to ask for help from a friend or neighbor. After all, if we are talking about replacing a cast-iron sewer system, it will be quite difficult for you to cope alone.

So, any work begins with preparation. Go around all the neighbors and coordinate the work with them, because you will need to turn off the water while the riser is being replaced. Next, get ready necessary tool, which will be needed both for dismantling the old one and for installing a new riser.

What tools will be needed

For a quality replacement of the sewer system, you will need the following tools:

• Bulgarian, which provides for the possibility of replacing carved circles of different diameters;
• Pipe cutter - this tool will come in handy for cutting a cast-iron pipeline in the absence of a grinder;
• Wedge - it is useful in order to remove the remains of the cast-iron pipe from the fasteners;
• Chisel - it is also needed to displace the remains of the pipe;
• Large screwdriver - experienced locksmiths recommend having a strong screwdriver on hand, with which you can easily remove some sections of the old pipeline;
• Hammer - with its help, the process of dismantling pieces of cast-iron pipeline with a chisel or screwdriver will become much easier;
• Grinder - it will help you grind the removed pieces of metal;
• A small mount or nail puller - you will need it when you have to make an effort to extract the pipe section;
• Perforator - necessary for clearing the path to the sewer riser and removing cement or concrete;
• cattle or adhesive tape- with their help, you can easily mark the horizontal line of the old riser;
• Rags or old bags - rags come in handy in order to temporarily plug the openings of the pipeline;
• Personal protective equipment - a respirator, goggles, gloves or mittens - these items are necessary for your safety and the quality of all work.

This list includes all the items and tools that you may need during the removal of the old sewer riser and when installing a new one. You can also use other similar tools.

Instructions for dismantling the old riser

As we have already said, the replacement of the riser should begin with bypassing the neighbors and agreeing with them on the time of work. If during the repair of pipes they will use the sewer, all their waste will come to your apartment. This applies to those tenants who live above you. Neighbors who live below will also not have to use running water, otherwise the water will interfere with you. It is necessary to shut off the water supply by the staff of the housing office.

The best option for replacing the riser is to completely dismantle the pipes on all floors and install new ones. If no one agrees, then the replacement of the pipe will be carried out only on the site in your apartment.

To get started, measure the size of the pipe in the toilet from floor to ceiling. Please note that old pipe should protrude from the ceiling and floor to a distance of up to 10 cm. If your pipe is located in close proximity to the water riser at home, work must be done very carefully so as not to damage it.

Now, using a grinder or pipe cutter, make cuts at the base of the pipe and its upper part. Remember that you need to step back from the edges by 10 cm. The shapes of the cuts should not be horizontal, but oblique, that is, make new cuts every 15 cm so that they converge and form the letter "V".

Carry out work around the entire circumference of the pipeline. This will eliminate the possibility of deformation of the pipe under its own weight. Otherwise, you risk running into a problem when the circle of the grinder is squeezed between, which can lead to injury.

Now we move on to removing the old parts of the pipe. To do this, take a wedge and drive it into one of the cuts. If you don't have a wedge, use a screwdriver or chisel. Lightly drive the tool inside the pipe with a hammer and gradually remove its old parts. At this stage, it is very important to ensure that the pieces of the old rusty pipe did not fall into the sewer line. Try to loosen the pieces of pipe a little, so it will be easier for you to remove them.

If you are dismantling in parallel with your neighbors, then you don’t have to worry too much about the upper part - it will simply be pulled up. The lower part is a combination of other pipes, made in the form of a tee. Try using a crowbar or mount to loosen the entire structure a little. If it does not give in, then with the help of a hammer and a chisel it is necessary to remove all the cement mortar, which is laid here as a fortification. The system consists of parts such as a revision, a coupling, a branch pipe, a branch and a tee.

You can also use a perforator with a special tip. This will only work if it allows free space at the base of the pipe. The last tool that will help you loosen the system will be a sledgehammer or a hammer. But use them carefully so as not to hook on adjacent pipes.

Do not forget to plug the sewer holes with bags or rags. When you loosen the entire structure, you just have to remove it from the floor.

Replacing part of the sewer riser

To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

• Plastic pipe (diameter 11 cm, material - PVC, PP, HDPE);
• Adapter - it can be a tee or a cross;
• Cuff - its diameter should be equal to the size of the pipe, also make sure that the gasket is made of soft rubber;
• Pipe branch;
• A set of fasteners - clamps brackets bolts with nuts and so on;
• A hammer;
• Perforator;
• Chamfer;
• Sandpaper;
• Insulator;
• Level, pencil, marker.

To do all the operations correctly, strictly follow our instructions. First, remove from the remaining parts old remnants and irregularities in cast iron. Use a grinder and a thick circle for this.

Take rubber cuff and install it on the bottom of the cast iron pipe. Now install the tee. For better connection smear its base liquid soap. To ensure a tighter fit of the tee or cross, lightly tap the structure with a hammer.

Lay a layer of sealant in places of all connections. Next, use a plastic pipe beveler. This will ensure maximum tightness when connected. After that, clean up all the bumps and plastic residues with sandpaper.

Now insert the pipe into the tee on the floor. Help with this with a hammer. After a successful connection at the bottom, you will have to connect the pipe to the section of cast-iron pipeline from above. To do this, use an expansion pipe.

All you have to do is attach your new plastic pipe to the wall. To do this, use a perforator to make holes under the ceiling, in the middle and at the base, near the tee. Then install the anchors or clamps and tighten the pipe firmly. It is important not to overdo it here, since the plastic may not withstand and crack when deformed.

Also note that the walls of a plastic pipe are thinner than cast iron. Therefore, it is recommended to isolate it. Use mineral wool for this.

As you can see, change sewer drain It's very hard on your own, but doable. If you have experience replacing a cast-iron pipe with a plastic one, share your comments below this article.

Replacing sewer pipes from cast iron to plastic for residents of old houses is very actual problem. The old cast-iron sewer is worn out, clogged. From the point of view of aesthetics, cast iron pipes also do not please many. Hence the conclusion: it is time to solve the issue.

Plastic pipes (PVC or polypropylene) have several advantages at once:

• light weight, thanks to which it is easy to work with pipes;
• installation of plastic sewerage does not require special equipment;
• ideal smoothness of internal surfaces reduces riser blockages;
• are not afraid of corrosion.

There is one drawback: the soundproofing characteristics of plastic are noticeably lower than those of cast iron.

Who will do?

If you are sure that you can handle the replacement of the sewer, carefully understand the process. There are some subtleties of preparation and work itself. You can also hire professionals. Then knowledge about the whole process will be needed just in case. To understand what to look for and how to accept a job.

Materials and tools

How many pipes, connecting and fasteners you need depends on the sewer layout plan. Make the calculations a little easier if your new sewer must completely repeat the old one. If you are planning any alterations, refinements of the old system, be very careful in all calculations.

It is advisable to plan an inspection hatch on the new sewer riser, even if it is not on the old pipes. Pay attention to the shaped connecting elements (tees, revisions, crosses) - their choice depends on the design of the sewer wiring. Cuffs that are placed at the junction of plastic and cast iron pipes must be rubber.

Another very important detail future sewer system - this is an expansion pipe. It will help to precisely fit the new sewer elements to the existing ones.

One of the main tools when replacing cast-iron sewer pipes with plastic ones is a grinder. It is she who will be needed when dismantling the riser. Depending on the technology used to seal existing sewerage, you may need a gas burner or a blowtorch. Other tools:

• a hammer;
• chisel;
• level;
• roulette;
• marker;
• plumb;
• goggles and a respirator.

Plus silicone plumbing sealant, cement mortar and some liquid soap.

Organizational matters

How to replace cast iron sewer pipes and not get a bunch of problems with neighbors? Perfect option- to agree immediately with all the risers. This can be quite difficult and time consuming. But this method is the most efficient. All vertical neighbors are aware of what is happening, no one is offended. Plus, they will react more and more calmly to the impossibility of operating the sewer for some time.

If you undertook such work on your own, you still have to negotiate with neighbors from above and below. First, about the work, and then about checking the system after the replacement.

Dismantling

1. It all starts with a stand. The pipe must be sawn at a height of approximately 0.6 m from the floor and 0.1 m from the ceiling. You can not make one continuous cut - they are made by two with a small jumper. It is destroyed with a hammer and chisel, after which the pipe can be removed. This kind of work is quite difficult to do alone. The best way- so that one person knocks out the jumper, and the second at this time holds the pipe.
2. All these works are done without jerks. Otherwise, part of the sewer riser in the ceilings can be damaged. This is not scary only when it is planned to replace pipes along the entire vertical. Dismantling the riser - the most hard part work, all other sewer elements are much easier to remove.
3. When might a torch or blowtorch be needed? In some old houses, the sealing of the sewer riser is made by pouring sulfur. This substance cannot be simply removed, it can only be burned out. During work, vapors harmful to humans are formed. That's why you need a respirator.
4. If sealing is done cement mortar, it must be carefully hollowed out and removed. During these works it is also important not to damage the lower part of the old pipe.
5. At the end of the dismantling work, the junctions of the old and new sewers must be thoroughly cleaned.

Installation of plastic pipes

Be very careful when you start installing a new sewer. There are three important nuances:

1. Installation is carried out only in the direction from the bottom up.
2. All sockets are installed against the flow.
3. If the plastic does not “sit down” tightly enough in cast iron, linen winding or silicone sealant will be additionally required.

More tips: so that the cuffs that are placed at the junction of the new plastic with the old cast iron are easier to install in their places, lubricate them with liquid soap. Particular attention should be paid to cutting pipes to the desired length.

Work begins with a riser and is carried out in the following order:

• Insert a rubber cuff into the lower section of the pipe, then a cross or a tee. Check the tightness of the connection.
• Place the compensation socket into the cut pipe (as far as it will go). Try on the assembly to the upper segment of the riser. The distance to the lower edge with the fitting installed must be greater than 5 mm. All fittings are carried out without rubber gaskets and cuff. They are installed when the fitting is over and the final assembly begins.
• Fasteners must be installed in the wall. For a vertical riser, three are enough for standard ceilings.
• Assemble the riser and other elements of the sewer system.

After completion of all work, the design must be tested. The best way- pass a significant drain volume through the new pipes. If there are no leaks, the job was done successfully.

Now you can imagine how to properly replace the old cast-iron sewer with a new and beautiful plastic one.