The better to cut plastic siding. How to work with vinyl siding correctly. Choosing a cutting tool
It would seem that the situation is simple - just open the instructions that each manufacturer supplies its products with and act. In practice, everything turns out to be much more complicated. In this article, we will talk about the difficulties that arise when performing seemingly simple operations for cutting vinyl siding, and we will try to give practical advice.
As promised in the article "Once upon a time there was a dacha" ("IVD", 2008, No. 9), today we are answering the question of interest to many readers of the magazine and visitors to the site www..
Source of problems
It is clear that when choosing a finish for the exterior walls of a newly built or renovated house, you want it to be not too expensive (this applies to both the price of the material and the labor costs for installation). But at the same time, the cladding should look good and not need careful care. Everyone specified requirements siding, especially vinyl siding, corresponds to the maximum extent. Perhaps this is precisely what explains its not only unabated, but also constantly growing popularity.
Increasing demand, as you know, gives rise to an increase in supply. As a result, only in the last 2 years the number of Russian market siding manufacturers has increased (we think that we will not be too mistaken) by 1.5-2 times, and the number of firms undertaking its installation (and by no means all of them are professionals high class), - 3-4 times. Well, how many private traders independently sheathe walls with siding own houses and dachas, we do not even undertake to predict. But for sure (this is confirmed by personal experience of numerous trips to construction sites) we can say that during installation they all face problems (you can’t pick up another word) when cutting panels. The source of these difficulties is one - poorly thought out and frankly weak installation instructions, which is not surprising. Any major Western manufacturer is firmly convinced that its siding should and will be installed by professionals who, as they say, ate the dog on this. And why do such specialists detailed instructions? And the fact that somewhere in Russia the owner or a team of guest workers hired by him, who sees this very siding (as well as the owner) for the first time in his life, will begin to sheathe the walls of the house with his own hands, does not occur to him. Domestic manufacturers, on the other hand, take an example from Western ones - after all, they detailed instructions they don’t publish, so we don’t need anything ...
| Photo by D. Minkin |
 Photo 1 |
 Photo 2 |
Cutouts on the ends of the panels for connecting them along the length: in the upper (1) and lower (2) parts. Difficulties in obtaining the first of them creates a multi-layer hook of the lock
To help us understand the best way to cut siding, we did not ask any of the companies that produce it, but decided to turn to the manufacturers of cutting power tools - professionals who are versed in various ways and methods of cutting (they, as they say, and the cards in their hands). Companies specializing in power tools are abundant on the Russian market: AEG, Bosch, Kress, Metabo (all - Germany), Black Decker, DeWALT, Skil (all - USA), Hilti (Liechtenstein), Hitachi, Makita (both - Japan ), "Bykovsky Electric Tool Plant", "Izhevsk Mechanical Plant", "Interskol" (all - Russia) and many others. The editors chose the Bosch company, which manufactures the widest range of power tools. The reason is simple: a group of so-called demonstrators works in the representative office of this company, whose duties include the virtuosity of any tools produced by the company and a visual demonstration of their capabilities to buyers of any category, including professionals. We decided to involve these specialists as independent experts.
They brought samples of siding and, using a specific example, explained what exactly needed to be cut and what result should be obtained. We also provided them with excerpts from installation instructions from several manufacturers, and then suggested that they try to comply with the requirements of these manuals. Of course, along the way, they had to choose the most suitable tool for cutting.
What and where should be cut?
Panels made of polyvinyl chloride by extrusion can have a length of 2-6 m - there is no single standard here. In the lower part of each panel there is a latch lock, in the upper part there is a perforated edge for fastening to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws and a mating part of the latch lock. On the side ends of the panels, both at the top and bottom, cutouts of a certain shape are still made at the factory, thanks to which the panels, when joined end-to-end with an overlap, go behind each other and are held together due to this.
Therefore, you can create a section of any length, but a multiple of the length of the panel. If the length of the wall to be finished does not match this step, the edge panel of the section is cut across under required size. And if the pediment of the house is sheathed, then not just across, but at an angle corresponding to the angle of inclination of the roof slope. Along with the cut off part, the panel also loses end cutouts, which have to be reproduced on a new end. At the same time, it is easier to create a cutout in the lower part, and more difficult in the upper part due to the layering.
It is also necessary to cut the siding in the situation when the width of the panel is too large - when connecting the side wall with the roof overhang and under the windows. Moreover, in the first case, the panel is simply cut along, and in the second, it is necessary to make a “drunk” in it along the width of the window. To do this, make two transverse cuts and one longitudinal.
So, there are three tasks: cut the panel across or across at an angle, restore the end cutouts and cut along.
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 Photo 4 |
 Photo 5 |
The use of a reciprocating saw (3) for cutting vinyl panels, even with the use of clamps (4), did not bring success. With the help of electric shears for metal (5), the result was a little better
What to cut?
Let's start this section by quoting one of the instructions: "To install siding, you will need the most common hand tools, such as hammer, square, chalk, level and tape measure. We recommend special goggles to protect your eyes. To cut the panels, you can use: an electric saw or a jigsaw, a hacksaw for metal, metal shears, a knife.
Well, let's try to deal with each of the tools in the order they are listed in the instructions.
Special profiles used for edging windows (6) and corners (7) can be cut with the same tool as wall panels
Fantasies on a given topic
Having on hand in abundance various tools, neither we nor the experts could deny ourselves the pleasure of dreaming up and testing equipment for cutting panels that was not listed in any of the instructions. For example, a reciprocating saw and electric scissors for metal.
It is difficult to cut siding with a reciprocating saw, even equipped with a special blade for plastic, since for this it is necessary that its platform rest against a solid surface, for which it was necessary to attach a sample panel with clamps to the surface of the table. It is not always possible to create such conditions in the conditions of a construction site.
With the help of electric scissors, it turned out to be very convenient to make longitudinal and even curly cuts. But as soon as the cutting edges of the tool hit a curved surface, it becomes impossible to work, because it is not always possible to put the scissors parallel to the surface. Well, there is no need to even talk about cutting the multilayer upper lock of the panel.
Electric saw. And immediately - two quotes from instructions from different manufacturers.
1. "A stationary or hand-held radial electric saw can speed up the cutting of siding. Fine-toothed panel (12 to 16 teeth per 2.5 cm) is suitable for cutting, while the panel must be installed in the opposite direction."
2. "When using a circular saw, set the fine-tooth blade (for plywood) to the back for a softer, cleaner cut... Cut slowly."
Photo 8 Everything seems to be clear. That's just doable ... with difficulty. To begin with, I would like to know where to get a disc with such small teeth? For example, in the assortment of Bosch, like others large companies, there is no such. But even if you still manage to find a similar one, the difficulties will not end there. By using manual circular it is problematic to make even a transverse or longitudinal cut, not to mention end cuts. Using stationary saw, the panels can also be cut across and along, but you will have to forget about the end cutouts - to get them, you need to turn the panel over twice, and then still cut the “influx” of the upper panel lock with scissors. It will also not be possible to completely make a drink under the window.
Photo 9 Where the error came from is hard to say, but while studying the instructions, the following assumption appeared: in the picture (and she, apparently, is alone and travels from one instruction to another), cutting siding with a hand circular saw looks beautiful only because the artist violated the ratio between panel and saw sizes. In practice, you simply do not see what and how you are cutting, since the surface of the panel is covered by the metal support pad of the saw (photo 8). In addition, if there is no support under the part to be cut, during operation, the weight of the saw bends the panel and the cutting line goes to the side. During the experiment, we were convinced that it is impossible to cut with a saw with large teeth - the siding is chipped. (photo 9) In the cold from these chips, cracks will probably begin to grow.
Jigsaw. And this tool for cutting siding is only partially applicable, in which both we and the experts were unanimous. For normal operation, at least under part of the site, the tool must have a solid and preferably even support. Not only is the siding panel itself neither a solid nor even support, it also does not rest on anything under the zone where the teeth cut into the hook loop, and when cutting off a small part, it hangs in the air altogether.
Photo 10 After sorting through two dozen different blades, the experts picked up the necessary - T101 with very fine teeth (intended for cutting laminate). The rest did not cut the vinyl - they broke it. Cross-cutting of the panels was relatively easy for our experts, but it turned out to be difficult to make cuts at the ends along the curved edge even for them (photo 10). True, they coped with this task, but we do not recommend repeating such a "feat" - it can end sadly. Despite the selection of the canvas, the cut turned out to be torn, therefore, if it is still possible to work with a jigsaw in warm weather, you should forget about it in cold weather.
Hacksaw for metal. Admittedly, a hacksaw - universal tool, which can safely cut siding in both heat and cold. It is easy to create end cuts with it, but ... provided that you are not in a hurry. It takes 5-6 minutes to process each end, and during this time you have to turn the panel over at least twice.
Photo 11A hacksaw is only partially suitable for transverse cutting of panels - its working blade is too short. Therefore, if you cut the wall panel at a right angle across you, courageously overcoming the difficulties created by the short length of the canvas (you have to cut it in short strokes, which significantly slows down the process), then cut it across at an angle - no more. Well, a soffit (a light-colored perforated panel, usually used for filing roof overhangs) cannot be cut across even at a right angle (photo 11). There is no need to talk about longitudinal cutting at all.
Metal scissors. Suitable for cutting siding only in warm weather. It is not recommended to use them in the cold - a crack will definitely appear in the place where the ends of the blades meet in the cold. By the way, with a certain thickness of the cutting parts (the designs of scissors are different), such a crack can also occur in warm weather. The installation instructions contain, for example, the following instructions:
"When cutting panels with metal shears...avoid full closing cutting edges scissors." "... Use scissors blades only 3/4 of their length for a neater and cleaner cut. Start cutting the panel from the top, fastening part.
Photo 12 Everything seems to be clear. Only it looks like the instructions were written by a person who did not cut the siding himself. In the upper part of the panel there is a "hook" of the lock, for which the lower lock of the higher panel clings (photo 12). This hook has an S-shape and is formed by three layers of vinyl; to cut it, you have to lean on the scissors with your whole body. And when it is finally cut through, the movement of the scissors is no longer able to be stopped by a person - the ends of the blades close and ... a crack is obtained. Only the rich can save practical experience, multiplied by perfect coordination of movements and remarkable strength of the muscles of the hands. And where to get all this? But if you start cutting from the bottom (photo 13), there will be less problems.
Photo 13 It should be added that when cutting in places where the panels are bent, the siding is crushed, and in cold weather or with insufficient plasticity of the material (alas, not all manufacturers have equally good material properties) cracks. Needless to say, you need to be smart to make end cuts? But cutting along the panel does not cause any particular problems, unless, of course, the cut line you have outlined does not pass through the bend of the panel.
Knife(photo 14). And again, let's start with the quote: "Using a cutter, draw a deep groove in the panel, then bend / straighten the panel several times until it breaks along the intended line." What is written is true only with unrestricted cutting flat area material. For example, to get a saw cut under the window opening, two transverse cuts are made (Fig. 1), a ruler is applied and a long cut is made on the panel with a knife, and then the part to be cut is bent in the direction opposite to the cut. A click is heard, and the cut off part falls to the ground.
Cross cutting of panels, as shown in Figure 2, taken by us from one instruction, should not even be attempted with a knife. How not to use it to create end cuts.
 Photo 14 |
 Rice. one |
 Rice. 2 |
corner Grinder, in other words, Bulgarian. This tool is also mentioned in many manuals, but in a very peculiar way. The instructions say something like this. It is not recommended to use a grinder for cutting vinyl siding (in some cases it is categorical - "forbidden"), since the cutting wheel melts the edges of the cut, which causes their embrittlement and, as a result, the appearance of cracks. And only in one instruction did we find the phrase: “To cut vinyl siding, you can use a hacksaw for metal ... and a grinder (at low speed).”
Photo 15After reading these words, our experts thought for a while, and then brought essential tool- angle grinder GWS 14-125 CIET (Bosch) with a power of 1400 W (photo 15), which has six speed control steps (2800-11,000 rpm). There are also less powerful devices in this series, for example V-6 (GWS-6-115E) (670 W). The winding of the electric motor for any of the angle grinders under consideration has special protection from damage by dust, which is formed in large quantities when cutting panels (by the way, this is not mentioned in the instructions).
Photo 16 Protecting the engine from dust is not at all an extra feature for a grinder. It has been verified by experience (see the article "Once upon a time there was a cottage") that a lot of dust is released when cutting siding, and it is fine and very corrosive. It settles both on clothes and on the instrument, penetrating into any cracks. As a result, the grinder’s power button began to act up after 2 hours of operation, and a week later it had to be held in the “on” position with a finger (photo 16). There was no engine failure, but it was thoroughly clogged with dust.
The tool proposed by the experts came up perfectly. If you install a thin (about 1.5 mm thick) cutting disc with a diameter of 125 mm and select the appropriate rotation speed, you can cut the panels both along and across. Some problems arise only when performing end cuts. You have to carry out the operation while holding the panel in the air, besides, it is difficult to cut off the "hook" - an influx in the upper part of the panel: it gaped a little, and the panel's canvas turned out to be cut, and the part was hopelessly damaged. And in general, working as a grinder on weight (and this tool is quite voluminous and heavy) is an unsafe business.
Photo 17 Dremel 400 digital (Bosch). This compact tool appeared on our market relatively recently and therefore has not yet gained sufficient popularity. It also applies to grinding machines, but not angle grinder, but straight grinder. The device is compact, light (550 g), powerful enough (140 W) and easy to use. It has a stepwise adjustment of the engine speed (5-33 thousand rpm), which is reflected on the electronic display. It is the compactness of the device that attracts in the first place - they can work safely, 
Photo 18 even holding the panel in the air. Equipping the machine with a small and very thin cutting disc (35 mm diameter), the experts made both end cuts in just 1.5 minutes. The cut obtained with the Dremel was neat, clean and indistinguishable in appearance from the one made at the factory (photo 17). If necessary, this, as it is often called, with a drill, you can also cut already installed parts (photo 18).
If Dremel is the best suited for these operations, then for longitudinal and transverse cutting of panels, you should prefer an ordinary grinder- on these operations it has higher productivity.
What did the experts decide?
When asked to comment on the work of the tools used, our experts reacted in a very peculiar way. They were silent for a long time, and then the head of the group said somewhat offended: “After all, you knew in advance that the best tool for cutting is a grinder! So why did you take us so long ... to read the instructions? I had to honestly admit: “Yes, we knew! Because, contrary to the instructions, they tried it in practice. But personal experience can sometimes be biased. So we decided to back it up with the opinion of experts and only after that publish the results so that our readers do not have to conduct any experiments.”
The editors would like to thank Bosch for their help in preparing the material.
Vinyl siding always has to be cut during installation. And even despite the fact that detailed instructions are attached to the siding, certain difficulties may arise.
Why Problems Occur
Choosing material for exterior finish built house, its owner wants Finishing work completed with minimal financial outlay. Euromet specialists advise not to forget that their price includes both the cost of the material itself and the cost of its installation. But at the same time as the question of the price of the owner of the house, another question is also of concern: how to make the house look beautiful, and secondly, it does not require special efforts to maintain their appearance. The best in price, quality and appearance finishing material is . That is why in last years there is a growing popularity of vinyl siding in our country.
As usual, an increase in demand leads to an increase in supply. If we analyze the situation on the Russian siding market, we can easily calculate that the number of siding manufacturers currently represented on it has increased in just a couple of years by one and a half, or even two times. And the number of firms that undertake its installation has grown even more significantly - by 3-4 times. True, the quality of work can vary significantly in different companies. Judge how many hosts country houses and dachas, trying to save on home decoration, install siding on their own, and even more difficult. But we can say with confidence that almost every home owner who installs siding without professional help, inevitably faces not just difficulties, but real problems. And these problems are associated primarily with the sharp siding. One of the reasons for this is insufficiently detailed and thoughtful instructions compiled by siding manufacturers. And this omission is difficult to blame the siding manufacturers. After all, the vast majority of brands of vinyl siding, presented today on the Russian market, are products of Western manufacturers. It is quite difficult for them to imagine that the owner of the house will install the siding himself, and not specially trained professionals. It is clear that, in general, professional installers of Euromet do not need instructions for cutting and installing siding. Vinyl siding, in principle, is not designed for the fact that its installation will be carried out by people who are completely unfamiliar with the technology of carrying out this kind of work. Domestic siding manufacturers are not far behind Western ones in this regard. The instructions they offer for installing siding are roughly similar to the instructions foreign manufacturers, since it is precisely on the model of Western ones that they are written.
It is most expedient to address the issue of cutting siding not to manufacturers, but to companies that manufacture tools for working with it. The development of power tools for working with siding is based on a thorough study of mechanical and physical properties panels. Naturally, who, if not tool developers, knows what cutting methods to use when installing siding. A large number of manufacturers of cutting power tools are represented on the Russian market: German companies Kress, AEG, Bosch, American Skil, Black & Decker, Japanese Makita, Hitachi, among domestic ones it is worth mentioning the Bykovsky Power Tool Plant, Interskol, Izhevsk Mechanical Plant. We will consider the features of cutting siding using Bosch tools. Our choice is easy to explain: the company's work in Russia includes such an activity as demonstrating the capabilities of the produced tool to both professional specialists and ordinary customers. It was on the advice of the demonstrators Bosch, each of which is a high-class professional, we have built our recommendations. Their task was to explain concrete examples how to cut a particular type of siding, as well as comment on the instructions that the manufacturer attaches to it.
Where to cut siding?
Vinyl siding panels are made from PVC using the extrusion method. Finished panels have a length of 2 to 6 meters - each manufacturer has its own length standard. According to Euromet specialists, each panel is equipped with a latch along the lower edge, and a perforated edge with holes for nails or self-tapping screws passes along the upper edge of the panel, with which the siding is fastened. In the same part is the second half of the castle. There are also cutouts in the side ends of the panel, which are made in order for the panels to be attached to each other when joined with an overlap.
When installing siding, the installed sections can be of any length. If the length of the wall is not a multiple of the length of the panel, it is obvious that the edge panel will have to be cut to the required length. If we are talking about finishing the pediment, the panel has to be cut not across, but at a certain angle, corresponding to the angle of the roof. And here the first difficulty arises: after all, cutting off a part of the panel, together with it we remove the end cutouts that are necessary for attaching the panels. These cutouts will have to be redone on the rest of the panel. This is easier to do if the lower part of the panel is cut off, and much more difficult if its upper part, which is multi-layered, is removed.
It is necessary to cut not only in the case when the length of the last panel is excessive. There are also situations when the width of the panel is excessive - this happens in places where the wall is connected to the window or to the roof overhang. With a roof it is easier - the panel is simply cut along. But the panels installed at the junction with the window have to be cut in accordance with the window opening. To do this, one longitudinal section and two transverse ones are made on the panel.
Summarizing the above, Euromet specialists conclude that three main situations can arise when cutting siding. The first is the need to cut the panel simply across or across at a certain angle, the second is to cut the panel along, and the third is to cut the panel and restore the cutouts on its end part.
What tool to use?
If you turn to the instructions for installing siding, then most manufacturers in their recommendations are quite categorical. For cutting siding, they suggest using an electric saw or electric jigsaw, metal shears, a knife, a hacksaw. Let's consider each of these options.
Most manufacturers recommend cutting siding with a fine-toothed saw. However, even a cursory glance at the assortment of the same Bosch, which offers one of the richest selections of power tools, shows that there is simply no such saw in it. It is possible that some manufacturer will be able to find a hand-held circular saw with the required teeth, but in practice it is quite difficult to perform both a longitudinal and a transverse cut with it.
There is no need to talk about end cuts. If you use a stationary saw, you can make longitudinal and transverse cuts, but again there are problems with end cuts. When cutting, the panel has to be turned over several times, and scissors are indispensable in the area of \u200b\u200bthe upper lock. It is also impossible to cut a hole under the window with the help of a saw.
The fact that, in general, a tool unsuitable for cutting siding, nevertheless, with enviable persistence, almost all manufacturers offer to use it for it looks somewhat strange. They even accompany their recommendations with a drawing, in which cutting with a saw looks very authentic and, from the point of view of a person unfamiliar with the question, is not difficult.
And only the eye of a professional will be able to notice that the proportions between the dimensions of the siding panel and the saw are simply violated in the figure. The problem with using a saw is that the person making the cut does not have the ability to see how the process is taking place: the saw's support pad obscures the view of the cut line.
And if you do not put a support under the siding, the cut line will inevitably bend. As for a saw with large teeth, it is also not recommended to use it: our experiments have shown that chips are formed in this case, and cracks will inevitably go along the panel in frost.
For cutting siding, it can be used with some reservations. This is because the siding panel is not strong enough to support the cut on its own. And the presence of a flat and solid support is an indispensable condition for working with a jigsaw. If you try to cut the siding with a jigsaw, you will inevitably find that the siding panel does not rest on anything during the cutting process, especially if you need to cut off a small part of it.
The only blade size that, according to Euromet experts, may be suitable for cutting siding is T101. The main purpose of this blade with very fine teeth is cutting laminate. You should not even try to cut the siding with other canvases - they will inevitably break the panels. With a jigsaw with the recommended blade size, it is quite easy to make longitudinal and transverse cuts, but it is not possible to cope with the cutouts at the ends at all. Another point - when using a jigsaw, the cut is largely torn, so the jigsaw can only be used in warm weather.
. As siding manufacturers assure, a hacksaw can cut siding in any weather, giving it any desired shape. Having made a number of experiments in this direction, we can say that the hacksaw copes with the notorious ends, but each cut takes more than 5 minutes, and the panel has to be turned over several times. As for the transverse cuts, the length of the working canvas for their implementation is clearly not enough.
Perhaps, with some perseverance and skill, you will still be able to cut the siding across. But it will take a lot of time, because you will have to cut in short strokes. But at an angle, with all your desire, you will not cut the siding with a hacksaw. - panels for processing roof overhangs, you should not even try to cut with a hacksaw, even at a right angle.
For cutting siding, they can only be used in warm weather; at low temperatures, the siding will inevitably crack. You should be very careful when choosing scissors: some models can crack even in the warm season. Referring again to the instructions, the following information can be gleaned from it: when cutting siding with scissors, it is not recommended to completely close their edges. We are advised to start cutting the siding from the upper edge, where the fastener is located. But what happens in practice? Starting to cut from the upper, multi-layered part, a person will inevitably make certain efforts, and when this part is cut through, the movement of the edges of the scissors cannot be stopped.
As a result, the ends of the scissors close and the siding cracks. To follow the recommendations given in the instructions, you will either have to practice for a long time (on your own siding), or you must have great physical strength. However, common sense helps to solve the problem very simply - start cutting the panel from the bottom side.
If you try to cut with scissors, you will encounter the fact that in those places where the panel bends, the siding is crushed under your efforts, and in cold weather it completely cracks. And, of course, again end cutouts - they can be completed by showing a certain ingenuity. But it is easy and convenient to cut along the panel with scissors - until the cut line reaches the bend of the panel.
Knife. Let us return to our instruction, which has already shown us such invaluable help. She advises first making a furrow in the panel with a knife, and then bending and straightening it several times until it breaks. For flat sections of material, this method is not difficult. For example, to make a drink under the window, you first need to make two transverse cuts, attach a ruler, make a long cut with a knife, and then simply bend the part to be cut off - it will gently break off. But you should not even try to cut the siding with a knife in the transverse direction, as well as make end cuts.
The bulk of siding manufacturers are very hostile to this tool and do not recommend (and some even prohibit) cutting siding with a grinder. According to manufacturers, this will lead to embrittlement of the edges and the appearance of cracks in the panel. It is very rare to find in the siding installation instructions a mention that a grinder can cut siding, but at low speed.
Checking this thesis, we used a 1400 W angle grinder from Bosch. You can use a less powerful unit. It is only important that the motor winding of the machine is protected from dust, which inevitably appears in large quantities when cutting siding. This dust is very fine and corrosive; it settles both on the surface of the processed materials and on clothes. This dust, clogged in the slots of the tool, can even cause it to fail.
What did the experiments with the grinder show? And the fact that the siding with its help is perfectly cut both along and across. It is only important to choose thin disc- in our case, it was a disk with a diameter of 125 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm, as well as a certain rotation speed. Difficulties arise only when making end cuts, since in this case you have to work on weight, which is both inconvenient and even dangerous. It is very difficult when making an end cut to cut off the influx in the upper part of the panel - it is important to stop the grinder in time and not cut through the entire canvas.
Such a tool is still little known to us. One of the models that has appeared on the Russian market in recent years is the Dremel 400 digital (Bosch). This is a lightweight (weighing only half a kilogram), compact and easy to use device, its power, despite its small size, reaches 140 watts. The rotational speed can be adjusted from 5 to 33 thousand revolutions per minute. The ease of use of the device lies in the fact that they can work without problems on weight. If you take a thin cutting disc, even with end blades, you can complete it in just a couple of minutes, and the cut is exceptionally clean and accurate. If it was not possible to achieve the required accuracy when cutting parts, the final trimming can be performed on an already installed panel. However, you should not perform longitudinal and transverse cutting with this tool - its power is clearly not enough for this, it is better to use a grinder.
Tools not listed in the manufacturer's instructions. Siding manufacturers, of course, list in their instructions a far from complete list of cutting tools. In addition to the above, we also tried a reciprocating saw and electric shears for cutting metal. reciprocating saw showed herself not better side- when cutting, its platform should rest against a solid surface, which is difficult to achieve on a construction site. As for electric scissors, it is very convenient to cut panels in the longitudinal direction and make curly cuts with their help. But it is impossible to work with scissors on curved surfaces, since in this case it is not possible to arrange them in the right way - parallel to the surface. Scissors will not succeed and cut the multilayer upper part panels.
conclusions
Having tested all cutting tools recommended and not recommended by siding manufacturers, Euromet specialists came to the unanimous conclusion: the best tool for cutting siding is a grinder, unanimously rejected by almost all vinyl panel manufacturers. Our experiments, we hope, will save you from having to experiment on your own and allow you to immediately apply the best way.
How to cut PVC (vinyl) siding
Sections of the article:
Deciding to finish the internal or external walls siding at home, you need to thoroughly approach the solution of this seemingly simple issue. Assembling the crate, laying the heat-insulating and vapor barrier materials, this is not all the work that you have to do yourself with PVC siding.
At the same time, the question is often - how to cut siding is in the first place, and here's why. Firstly, if the siding is being installed for the first time, then, of course, not everyone knows how to properly cut the siding and what tool can be used for this.
But sometimes even experienced craftsmen and those make blunders while cutting siding. The result is one, spoiled material and money thrown to the wind.
How to cut siding - tools
Today, there are plenty of tools for cutting siding with your own hands. Therefore, the question of how to cut siding is completely solved with the help of such a tool as:
1. A power saw is not a very convenient option for cutting siding. The fact is that for cutting siding you need a canvas circular saw with very small teeth. Otherwise, when cutting the siding, an electric hacksaw will simply tear the material, which can lead to its damage.
2. Electric jigsaw - like a power saw, it is also suitable for cutting siding. True, the conditions here for the tool are the same, and the blade must be chosen with as small teeth as possible, for example, as for cutting laminate (T-101 blade).
3. Hand saw - cutting siding hand saw for metal can be performed at any time of the year. However, this work is not easy and will have to work hard. In addition, a short hacksaw blade will cut the siding only across.
This tool for cutting PVC siding is also convenient in that it is easy to transport it in a tool box, but you can read about that by clicking on the link above.
4. A sharp knife - absolutely not suitable for cross-cutting siding. However, to cut the siding lengthwise, sometimes a knife can come in handy.
5. Bulgarian (UShM) - it is most convenient to cut the siding with an angle grinder - a grinder. At the same time, you need to know that a grinder with adjustable speed and a thin, no more than 1.5 mm cutting disc is suitable for these purposes.
To cut siding with any of the above tools, you first need to complete all necessary measurements associated with it. It is worth considering some expansion of the material during its operation. Of course, you don’t need to cut the siding so that it hangs in the profile, but it’s better to leave some gap of a couple of millimeters, of course.
For slitting siding, it is advisable to use sharp knife, Bulgarian or electric jigsaw. It is important to understand that it is strictly forbidden to cut the siding on weight, as this can lead to injury. The best option would be a flat and long tabletop with a non-slip rubber coating.
The structure of a material is determined by its constituents. Products are made on the basis of polyvinyl chloride, which is made from petroleum products and chlorine components through a complex technological cycle. The content of PVC in products reaches 80%, the rest is modifiers, stabilizers and pigments. The components are mixed, after which the mass is heated and molded on special equipment into panels about 1 mm thick.
A feature of high-quality modern plastic siding is that it is produced by co-extrusion. This method allows you to create parts where the components are conventionally placed in layers: the upper layer is responsible for resistance to environmental influences, and the lower one provides strength and stability.
High-quality panels consist of 2 layers - external decorative and protective and bearing On a note! Also on sale are more cheap material, collectively called "Grey-back siding". Its structure is different from the previous one. The product contains recycled PVC, which makes the panels brittle. Cutting becomes difficult, because the site is unstable, which leads to the appearance of creases and cracks.
Tool overview
For work, various devices can be used, which have their own advantages and disadvantages.
Widely used in construction and decoration. Usage features:
An electric jigsaw can be effective and cut to length if needed. To do this, it is equipped with a special holding device, set to the desired size.
Electric (circular) saw
A hand-held circular saw is a handy but rather expensive tool. Can be manual or stationary. Works with vinyl panels have the following nuances:
- Difficulties arise when choosing a saw blade: almost all options are available with fairly large teeth, not very suitable for plastic.
- Cutting off is complicated by the need to hold the part firmly, because the tool works at high speeds.
- Cutting out small sections is almost impossible. In addition, the manual version partially closes the view, which does not allow you to control the process.
- A significant problem can be the weight of the tool. Under load the panel (especially irregular shape) bends, which leads the cut to the side.
Circular saws are easy to use even cuts over large areas An alternative could be cut-off saw with a broach, but it is also not without some of the described shortcomings.
Hacksaw for metal
It is the simplest and most affordable option.
It is possible to cut siding with a hacksaw, but the process is long and laborious Peculiarities:
- Although the files have the required tooth size, the speed does not allow processing a large number of vinyl material. It will take serious effort to maintain the right pace, and fatigue will lead to mistakes.
- Only edges that are carefully hidden behind additional elements can be trimmed, since the canvas is not too rigid and can lead the cut to the side.
- Cutting parts along the length is possible, but it will take a lot of time, because the cut section will have to be divided into pieces. In addition, the butt of the saw will interfere with precise execution.
Accordingly, the use of such a tool will be extremely ineffective.
Scissors for cutting metal
The use of PVC siding scissors must be done with great care.
When choosing scissors for metal, their type should be taken into account, as there are right, left and straight models. - Work is carried out in warm weather. This rule is true for all instruments, since vinyl becomes brittle at low temperatures.
- Scissors are only suitable for panels with medium density not too hard and not cheap.
- The cut is performed in the same way as when working with metal - only part of the blades is involved in the process, without complete closure. Otherwise, a crack is likely to appear.
- Difficulties arise when cutting complex shapes and when working with the upper locking part of single-fracture parts, since it has a thickened bend.
Cutting vinyl panels with scissors for metal is quite difficult, and your hands get tired quickly Such a tool requires significantly more time than the previous version, but the result will not meet expectations.
knife cutter
The device can be used for cutting plastic, but taking into account some features. The process will take time and extreme accuracy; it will not work to process many details with great accuracy.
First, a recess is created on the cutting line, for this a limiter is set - a ruler or a rail, then it is necessary to repeatedly draw the tool along the mark. A similar procedure is recommended for reverse side. After all the manipulations, the panel breaks.
A sharp mounting knife is good for deburring and cutting small hard-to-reach fragments While the process appears to be effective, it is actually extremely complex. The fact is that the siding profile (especially with several waves) does not have a flat plane, so making a single cut is problematic. Difficulties will also arise with the upper castle part due to the curved structure. The result will be a broken panel, so it is better to completely abandon such a tool.
Bulgarian
The angle grinder is popular fixture for work with vinyl material.
It is not advisable to use high-power grinders for working with PVC, the best option there will be low-power models with a 125 mm disc To obtain a high-quality result, some nuances are taken into account:
- A light weight tool with a power of up to 1 kW is selected. This will allow you to complete the work quickly enough and without any extra effort.
- The part should be cut at speeds no higher than average. This will prevent damage and edge melting.
- The panel must be held, otherwise it can be knocked out and deployed.
- The disk should be of small thickness and size.
- Unreliable holding of the tool during a set of revolutions can create problems.
- The grinder is set exactly to eliminate the curvature of the cut.
Cutting plastic at high speeds is undesirable Attention! When working, you need to remember safety precautions, which is true for other tools, be sure to use glasses.
straight grinder
This is a multifunctional device with large quantity nozzles. Can be used to cut off excess PVC siding.
Direct grinding models differ from grinders only in the location of the disk relative to the axis of the tool Peculiarities:
- It is possible to work with the tool in different positions (even on weight), but it is recommended to hold it parallel to the panel or with a slight inclination.
- In the process, you can adjust the number of revolutions.
- Difficulties can arise if you need to cut the siding to length. Big details will take a long time, and the tool will start to overheat.
- The resulting clean cut is great for joining additional elements or decorative moldings.
With the help of such a tool, you can correct the shortcomings of already installed parts.
Straight blade tool for easy trimming in place Reciprocating saw and electric scissors
Alternatively, other cutting attachments may be used:
Electric shears for working on plastic - not the best option Such tools will only take time and effort.
conclusions
To properly and accurately cut vinyl siding, it is best to use a grinder. A straight grinder or a jigsaw (if you have certain skills) can compete with it. But regardless of the selected tool, the cut should not be in the center of the line, but along the outer edge, if the margin is not taken into account in advance.
Siding Installation Rules
Before starting to produce vinyl Mitten siding, download and carefully read the Annotation for the installation of siding. We also recommend joining the list of our the right advice, with which they will make up a common memory with you about the siding installation scheme, and in addition, deal with some personal options and exceptions. If so, the most important rule is to strictly follow the Mitten Vinyl Siding Installation Guide.
Facade cladding technology with Mitten siding
Always consider the characteristics of the material!
Vinyl siding Mitten, as well as our client remains PVC-based building materials, expands and contracts under the influence of temperature changes. The spectrum of their expansion and contraction reaches 9.5 cm, do not forget about this step, in connection with this you always need:
- use only devices manufactured by Mitten in the configuration for Mitten siding panels, as they have the same elongation and compression ratios, which ensures the stability of the skin;
- drive fasteners into the middle nail hole and strictly perpendicular (the siding moves along, therefore it is impossible to strengthen the nails on the sides of the hole);
Tip: If it is not possible to attach fastener in the middle of the nail hole (for example, at the intersection of the panel and the lathing, there is only the edge of the hole), use a perforator to increase the size of the nail hole by required distance.
An exception that allows you to fasten siding parts to the edges of nail holes are external and internal corners, as well as other accessories arranged vertically. In such cases, fastening to the edges of the holes is carried out only in the uppermost (upper edge) and the lowest (lower edge) of the hole. See our Siding Installation Instructions for more information.
leave a gap of 1 mm between the head of the fastener (nail, screw, staple) and the siding panel - pulling the studs along full program it will aggressively fix the panel to the crate and will not allow it to move under the influence of temperature differences;
Remember: The diameter of the head of a nail or self-tapping screw must be greater than the width of the nail hole.
Do not allow fasteners to be driven through the siding - if it is not possible to avoid fastening the panels through, you must pre-drill fixing hole in a panel with a slightly larger diameter than the diameter of the fastener (but less than its head) and when driving in a nail, do not pull the panel close to the wall;
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Always use zinc plated fasteners of sufficient length to fasten the siding.
The fastener elements must) go into the wall or crate by approximately 2-2.5 cm. The introduction of fasteners that are not protected from corrosion will constantly turn into rusty streaks on the siding panels in a couple of months.
Important to know: Atmospheric moisture in the form of fog, thaw or humid air after rain, it still gets on the fasteners. And since the service life of Mitten siding is 50 years, non-galvanized fasteners will inevitably rust in that time.
Produced siding Mitten is probable even with small sub-zero temperatures(up to 10 C).
Mitten siding panels are quite elastic, they do not break during installation at sub-zero temperatures. Alas, at temperatures below 10 C, installation is not recommended.
Remember: At sub-zero temperatures, it is better to cut the siding in a heated room.
Mitten siding is installed only on a previously leveled wall.
To align the wall in most cases, crate is used. Wood is the cheapest and most readily available siding sheathing material. You can use an iron profile for drywall. Under horizontal siding, the crate is installed vertically, under vertical - horizontally. The width between the planks of the crate should not exceed 40 cm. With a greater distance between the planks, the hardness of the siding sheathing will be insufficient for normal use.
Tip: If you are framing wood siding, do not use planks of young, poorly dried wood. When such a crate dries, there is a high probability that the surface of the facade will “lead”.
Under the siding sheathing, you will like the external wall insulation installed.
In the role of a heat insulator, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polymer heat insulators are used. In the process of choosing materials for insulation, we advise you to consult with experts in order to avoid technological violations of the siding finish.
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Important: With external wall insulation, it is better to install the crate on top of the insulation layer. When installing insulation between the battens of the battens, “cold bridges” will form in the zone where the battens adjoins the wall. Applying mineral wool insulation be sure to use a windproof membrane film.
How to cut siding.
Vinyl siding Alta Profile. video annotation for installation. Installation of horizontal vinyl panels.
How to cut siding. We cut siding.
Siding cutting technology during installation
Do not cut panels either additional elements early. Cut the panels to the correct length as the installation progresses, especially if you are not using H-profiles to join the panels. Here we advise you to space out the connections of the panels, and not line them up at the same time. The upholstery will look better.