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Having learned how to propagate strawberries with a mustache, I buy several bushes different varieties, I test and form beds from the most delicious, drought-resistant, frost-resistant and abundantly fruiting.
A healthy strawberry bush bears fruit on time and tends to multiply - it grows long stems, mustaches, at the end of which a rosette is formed. First, a new bush feeds on the mother plant, growing up, it becomes heavier, sinks to the ground and takes root. After that, it can be considered a separate plant.
This reliable and easy way breeding garden strawberries has been used for a long time and everywhere, but not everyone knows which bushes are suitable for obtaining strong seedlings and which are not suitable.
What bushes are suitable for mustache propagation
Full-fledged seedlings will certainly come from plants that did not bear fruit this season.
- the forces of the plant must be directed either to fruiting or to reproduction;
- seedlings obtained from a bush that bears fruit in the current season will be weak, will begin to yield later, adaptation will take longer;
- receiving both berries and seedlings from the plant, the owner of the site depletes the plantation, the berries of garden strawberries will become smaller, the resistance of plants to diseases will decrease, and the yield will decrease by a third.
mother bushes
Having planted a bed of a new variety, you need to monitor the survival rate and fruiting of the bushes, removing the mustache from all plants. When the season is over, gotta pick right amount mother bushes for further seedlings. For this, plants that quickly adapted after planting, did not get sick, and gave a bountiful harvest on time, are suitable.
Selected bushes are planted on a separate bed, provide them necessary care. A bed of mother bushes is formed according to the scheme: the distance between rows is 80 cm, the step between plants is 40 cm.
In the spring, during the flowering period, flower brushes are removed from the mother bushes, preventing flowering and fruiting. Then the plant will focus all its resources on reproduction.
With the advent of summer, mustaches will begin to actively grow on the mother bushes. The task of the gardener is to leave the strongest and thickest, remove all the rest.
Strong, viable rosettes are obtained by shortening the whiskers, leaving one closest to the mother bush. If you need a lot of seedlings, you can leave two rosettes closest to the mother plant. After that, you need to wait for the appearance of your own roots on young bushes.
When it appears root system, the mustache is pinned to the ground so that it is rooted in loose soil young plant, provide regular watering to stimulate self-feeding. If it is planned to transport seedlings, young sockets can be planted in pots with earthen mixture without separating them from the mother bush.
Proper pruning
To separate the young bush from mother bush, need:
- work in dry, sunny weather;
- cut at a distance of 10 cm from the mother plant;
- use sharp garden tools- a knife or scissors.
Seedling
The term for planting seedlings in a new place - last month summer. Before frost, garden strawberries should adapt to a new place. Having planned a landing, in 10-15 days you need to cut off the mustache connecting the mother and daughter bush.
The sooner to plant garden strawberries on permanent place, the stronger the bushes will become, the better they will prepare for the cold. Late-planted seedlings do not tolerate winter well.
The laying of the buds of the future crop takes place in the summer. If you plant young bushes in August-September, next season they will give good harvest. Those who root sockets right in the garden, and transplant in the spring, will collect only a few berries from them.
Rules for arranging a new garden
The site must be flat, a slight slope is allowed. The optimal direction is south or southwest. Lighting is very important. The shade from nearby trees, constantly falling on the bed, will deprive the berries of the sweet taste and will prevent their growth.
The soil should be light, contain a lot of sand. On the clay soils the roots of garden strawberries rot. To make the soil light and loose, the bed is dug up to the depth of a shovel bayonet.
Weeds growing wildly on the site worsen the quality of the crop. Before planting, the bed must be thoroughly cleaned of weeds, removing them with roots. The width of the beds should be 1 meter.
On hot summer days, landing should be planned for the afternoon, evening. Cloudy day and light drizzle - perfect time for such work.
Watering is needed before and after planting: the bushes are watered before digging or removing from temporary pots. After all the plants have been placed on the garden bed, it also needs to be watered. Under one bush pour 500-700 ml of water.
If several varieties of garden strawberries are planted on the site, you need to ensure that there are bushes of the same variety in the same row.
Seedling care
Careful loosening provides aeration of the roots, promotes their growth and good survival of the bush. AT hot weather the bed is watered daily for a week, later irrigation can be done once every 2-3 days.
Get quality planting material from mother bushes it is possible for 3-4 years. A 2-year-old or 3-year-old bush that has gained strength gives a lot of whiskers with rosettes. For 4-5 years mother plants are replaced with new ones.
Knowing the method of propagation of strawberries with a mustache, you can spend a minimum of money on varietal seedlings, and provide yourself with any amount of high-grade planting material.
The uterine branch of the nursery is all tree plantations that serve as a source of material used for seed and vegetative propagation. Such plantations include orchards, protective forest belts, plantations of poplars, willows, etc. The presence of its own uterine base in the nursery allows for the timely collection, sowing and stratification of seeds. Freshly cut cuttings give a high percentage of survival; in addition, there are no unproductive costs associated with travel for the procurement of source material, packaging and transportation of seeds and cuttings. The basis of uterine plantations in the nursery is a uterine garden of a mixed nature (fruit-decorative) with various departments, the main ones are:
1) uterine ornamental garden with branches of roses and lilacs;
2) uterine orchard with rootstock and graft branches, as well as with a branch of varietal berries;
3) offspring plantation;
4) plantation of poplars and willows.
When selecting breeds in mother ornamental garden it is necessary to take as the main one the assortment that is approved for cultivation by the promising organizational and economic plan of the nursery. At the same time, ordinary tree species should not be planted, the seeds of which can be easily harvested on the spot outside the garden. Particular attention should be paid to decoratively valuable rare species, especially varieties of garden forms of trees and shrubs. Species that are of only botanical interest and do not have great silvicultural and ornamental value should not be introduced into the assortment of the mother garden.
Trees in the decorative mother garden are placed in small groups, taking into account biological features breeds in order to obtain pure-bred seeds. Shrubs are planted in separate groups, at a distance of 15-20 m from one another. With a closer placement, the groups merge into solid arrays. Shrub groups can be planted in between groups of trees. Seed and cutting mother shrubs are regularly planted on the stump so that strong young shoots grow on them, suitable for cuttings, both summer and lignified cuttings.
The placement of trees and shrubs in the mother garden should ensure their free and normal development, and also taking into account the possibility of maximizing the use of mechanization. These requirements are met by row planting with sufficient distance in rows and between rows. These distances are determined depending on the size of the plants. Plant groups have rectangles, the area of which is 500, 1000 and 2500 m for trees, 50-200 m for shrubs.
The mother garden requires a systematic and meticulous care(plowing the soil, loosening, weeding, fertilizing, watering, pest and disease control, thinning or pruning).
Creation mother orchard can pursue two goals: obtaining cuttings and providing the nursery with seeds for growing rootstock seedlings. It is laid out like an ordinary orchard with a square layout: 8X8 m for pome breeds and 6X6 m for stone fruits with mechanized processing of row spacing in two mutually perpendicular directions.
branch varietal berries created by planting two-year-old bushes of varietal species of currant and gooseberry or one-year root offspring of the best raspberry varieties. Bushes are placed in rows, each variety separately, the distance between rows is 2 m, and in rows - 1-1.5 m.
A plantation of poplars and willows is planted not with cuttings, but with seedlings, as this allows you to get more resistant and powerful mother plants with a longer service life. Planting is square with a distance between plants of 1-1.5 m.
In green building nurseries, it is impossible to create poplar plantations by planting seedlings, since in this case urban green spaces will be clogged with female specimens, which is highly undesirable. For bookmarks, cuttings taken from male specimens should be used.
Queen cells of poplars and willows annually, in early spring, before the start of sap flow, or in late autumn, after leaf fall, they are planted on a stump (pruning). This ensures that strong, stage-young shoots are obtained, which are most suitable for cuttings. With good soil and proper care plantations of poplars and willows can be used for up to 50 years.
Growing spray roses and lilacs
On the territory of the mother garden, a rose garden is placed as one of its branches. In the rose garden, various types and varieties of roses are grown with scientific, decorative and production target- obtaining flowers for cutting, for sale, cuttings for vegetative propagation, etc.
The area chosen for the rose garden should be well lit, especially in the morning. Therefore, the best place for it is a flat or with a slope of up to 3 ° section of the southern slopes, with occurrence ground water no closer than 2 m.
Roses are planted in the spring, so the soil is prepared from autumn to a depth of 45-50 cm. In the rose garden, mother cells of various groups of roses should be presented in order to obtain the source material for their reproduction - polyanthus, hybrid-polyanthus, Pernetian, tea-hybrid, climbing, etc.
Roses are planted square way(100X100 cm). For bookmarks, only varietally tested, well-formed annual seedlings are taken. Before planting, the shoots are cut off; after planting, the seedlings are spudded with earth to protect them from drying out. When the buds begin to swell, the roses unwind.
For laying a mother rose garden, it is better to take own-rooted seedlings of varietal roses, since grafted roses constantly give wild shoots from their rootstock - wild rose, which, if not cut in time, destroys the grafted part of the shrub. In the second year after planting, they begin harvesting material for cuttings and budding. One normally developed bush can produce five to six shoots or 12-20 cuttings for green cuttings and two or three shoots or 10-15 eyes for budding during the summer. one bush climbing rose can give six shoots up to 60 cm long, which will be 50 cuttings for green cuttings.
To determine the need for mother liquors of various groups of roses, when laying a rose garden, one can roughly proceed from the following calculation. To obtain 1000 cuttings for summer cuttings and budding, you need bushes:
Polyanthus and hybrid-folio 50
Climbing roses 15-20
Tea-hybrid, Pernetian 150
The service life of the rose garden good care followed by 10-15 years.
All mother roses must be provided with labels indicating the variety, since it is almost impossible to accurately determine their varieties when they do not yet have foliage.
Plot of land occupied various varieties lilac planted for the same purpose is called syringaria. It is laid on equal, open areas or in areas with small slopes of western exposure. The soil must be well cultivated and fertilized. For planting, two-year-old bush lilac seedlings are used. Bushes are placed in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 2-2.5 m from one another. Wild shoots that have emerged from a dormant bud near the root neck of the stock should be immediately destroyed, otherwise the varietal lilac quickly runs wild. After flowering, the bushes are pruned and old and weak branches are removed (they are cut off almost at the very base), and old brushes are also removed. This contributes to the formation of new, powerful shoots.
A very responsible job awaiting us at the dacha at the end of June - the very beginning of July - propagation by cuttings of shrubs. This is the best time for cuttings, in more late dates roots are formed, but do not have time to fully form and overwinter normally.
In most cases, with further propagation, rooting cuttings in water is absolutely not suitable for most shrub crops. The roots formed in it are very fragile, when transplanted into the ground they often die off, the plant has to grow them twice, and this is a waste of time. Therefore, planting cuttings for propagating shrubs in the country is best done immediately into the soil.
Propagation by cuttings of shrubs
The most important requirement for the soil where shrubs will multiply is light, well-cultivated, nitrogen-depleted soil. It is categorically excluded the introduction of manure and compost to where the cuttings will grow. The optimal soil composition for plants is peat with sand in half, with the addition of charcoal. If the soil is still rich in nitrogen, it is necessary to make the desired layer a few centimeters thick, without mixing with the main earth.
The second requirement for the reproduction of shrubs is already environment, namely to the air. His high humidity in the country, we create using plastic wrap, a plastic can or a cut plastic bottle. In addition, diffused light is needed. We achieve this with any nonwoven fabric, burlap, polymer film, or simply by allocating a landing site for propagation of cuttings in the shade of a house or trees.
Many types of shrubs do not care where rooting takes place. But honeysuckle and jasmine are better rooted in the shade. On the contrary, roses, hydrangeas, phloxes, Kuril tea, spireas are more suitable for a greenhouse in the sun, but always covered with light-diffusing material.
shrub cuttings park roses, especially wrinkled roses, take root very poorly during reproduction. Roses from bouquets, in principle, can be rooted, but here you need to remember that the thinner the stem, the less time the roses stood in the water, the higher their chance of rooting. Almost no cuttings take root tree peonies, garden blueberries and varietal clematis.
Now we turn, directly, to the very actions of propagating shrub cuttings using the example of a greenhouse or garden bed, which should have a minimum area of \u200b\u200b50 by 50 cm and a height of 25 cm.
We dig the soil, level it, if necessary, make a layer of peat with sand. Install the arcs, fix on them polyethylene film, on top we throw light-scattering material.
Roses in the country are best rooted in the warm season at temperatures of the order of +25 +28 degrees. If the summer turned out to be cool, then we heat the cuttings of shrubs using dry grass, hay or foliage. We take out the fertile soil layer, lay organic materials at the bottom with a layer of 30 cm, tamp them down, sprinkle with urea or other nitrogen fertilizer, spill hot water. We return the soil to its place, above the garden bed, we install a frame with a greenhouse, cover it with a film. After a few days, the decomposition of organic matter will begin, and after a week, rose cuttings can be planted for propagation.
The day before grafting, we abundantly spill the mother bushes of the plant. The shrub branches that we have outlined are treated with one of the drugs against fungal diseases, such as Topaz or Fitosporin. Preparations containing copper are avoided. For roses, we additionally add Fitoverm from spider mites to the preparation. During the day, the drugs will be absorbed and begin to act, increasing the resistance of the cuttings to infections.
Shortly before grafting, we spill the greenhouse and cover it to achieve greater humidity.
Toward evening, we cut off the relatively thin branches of shrubs intended for reproduction with secateurs. The desired diameter on the cut is not more than 1 cm. Roses and viburnum have cuttings during or immediately after flowering. We take branches with flowers only from roses, Japanese spirea and Kuril tea. We take growth shoots from other types of shrubs. At conifers we take cuttings from young plants, due to a decrease in the ability to root with age.
Further actions must be carried out immediately, which does not exclude the transportation of harvested cuttings (or short-term storage) in a wet cloth wrapped in polyethylene.
Cut the branches into individual cuttings. top with non-lignified soft tissues do not use. In roses, we take a blank from a shrub with three leaves, in hydrangeas, viburnum, lilacs, curly honeysuckle, garden jasmine use cuttings with three nodes. For plants with small leaves, like Kuril tea, spirea and coniferous species, this number doesn't matter.
In the lower part of the cuttings we make an oblique incision, in the upper part - a straight or oblique one. In conifers, we break them off with a piece of the main shoot. The lower ends are immediately immersed in the input, and from the lower part we remove those leaves that will be underground. In shrub species with large leaves we reduce the evaporating surface by shortening the upper pair of leaves in hydrangeas, while in roses with large leaves we remove the terminal leaf blade leaving only the side ones.
In the soil prepared for propagation, there should be at least one node of the planted cuttings of the shrub. When planting a plant, we slightly open the edge of the shelter and, having landed it, immediately lower the edge so that nothing dries out. The distance between the cuttings depends on the size of the leaves. It is desirable that they do not touch each other. After planting, cover with polyethylene and shading material.
In the following days, we water the plantings daily in the evening. warm water. We do not open the film for a long time. So we take care until full rooting and, even, until full adaptation in September. When caring for shrub cuttings, be sure to remove all dried and fallen leaves. Spray with fungicide every 10 days. 
The timing of rooting cuttings in the country, even in one culture, is very different. With an average rooting time of roses of three weeks, some varieties give roots in a couple of weeks, while others take more than a month. Hydrangeas and mock oranges (jasmines) take root for about a month, curly honeysuckle ready in 10 days. In any case, it is better to keep the plants until September, even if lateral buds have already appeared for a long time.
Worse take root coniferous shrubs. Some breeds give seedlings in a season, while others need two to three seasons.
Summarizing everything, we can additionally say that a lot depends on weather conditions, so the success that came this year may not be repeated next.
Strawberry- sweet, tasty and useful berry, which is grown by each gardener on his site.
The most common and easiest way is propagation of strawberries.
Consider the features of propagation of garden strawberries with a mustache, how to choose the right bushes, root an outlet and transplant seedlings to a permanent place.
Sometimes gardeners try to simultaneously harvest from the bushes and use the same strawberry bushes for breeding. But this approach is not correct, the plants are quickly depleted, the strawberries give a smaller yield, start to hurt, the berries become worse in quality.
If you have strawberry bushes with good varietal qualities - make a choice, either you want to get a crop of berries, or a mustache for breeding.
If you think that you can take the mustache from the bushes after harvesting the berries, such seedlings will not be complete, since the plants have already spent most of the nutrients to get berries, the mustache will be weak. You can not force plants to work on two fronts, they will quickly exhaust their resource.
Video - Reproduction of strawberries with a mustache
To obtain high-quality strawberry beds, it is necessary to select uterine bushes - the key to proper reproduction.
To do this, in the first year of planting strawberries, all the whiskers are removed from all bushes, waiting for the harvest of berries.
Of all the plants, they choose those that did not get sick, better tolerated the vagaries of the weather, with large berries of the same size.
Such bushes should be marked in various ways (with a stick, sticker, cloth), the main thing is to be visible. These are future mother bushes. In order not to get confused, you can plant such bushes on separate beds, according to the scheme 40 cm between the bushes and 80 cm between the rows.
On the next year prevent flowering on mother bushes, remove all buds. Plants will put all their strength into the development of mustaches. Already in June, the bushes will begin to give a mustache with rosettes. For breeding, leave only powerful and large mustaches, remove all others.
Most best option - leave one outlet closest to the mother bush. If there is a need for in large numbers seedlings, you can also use the second outlet.
When roots appear on sockets for further development there are two options:
First option, you can pin the outlet to the ground, water and care for it without cutting it off from the mother bush, like seedlings.
Second option considered the best, plant each outlet in a separate pot with soil, where the root system will develop before transplanting.
The transfer takes place with earthy clod without damage to the root system, plants quickly take root and take root in a new place.
2 weeks before transplanting to a new place, the mustache should be cut off from the mother bushes so that they get used to eating on their own. Plant plants in a new permanent place in July-August. Strawberry seedlings will have time to form and grow stronger before the first frost.
Within 2-3 years you will receive strawberry seedlings. Bushes 2-3 years of age give more whiskers than in the first year.
Video - Super way to propagate strawberries
It's so simple and reliable way breeding strawberries whiskers. We hope the article will be useful to you when cultivating strawberries in your area.
Good luck to you and big harvests strawberries!