Regular pruning of apple trees is required to thin out the crown in order to increase yields and obtain healthy and tasty fruits. This procedure creates Better conditions ventilation and lighting of trees. And the harvest itself is much easier.

Indeed, the correct pruning of apple trees is when the crown is formed, leaving the longest branches at the bottom, and the closer to the top the branches are, the shorter they are. About the nuances of this procedure, when you can cut apple trees, focusing on the age of the trees, as well as about the features depending on the time of the year, will be discussed below.

The older the tree, the lower its yield. Therefore, rejuvenating pruning of apple trees is carried out in order to resume their maximum fruiting. For young seedlings, such an operation will help to properly form the crown and have a good yield in the future.

Basic conditions, how to properly prune an apple tree and get good yield, This:

Types of pruning depending on the season

A common question for beginner gardeners is when is it better to prune apple trees - the procedure can be carried out at any time of the year, with the exception of winter. In the cold period, this is strictly prohibited, since all plants are at rest.

spring

Spring is most favorable for the removal of branches. The period when you need to prune apple trees comes even before the awakening of the kidneys, around the beginning of March. Having managed to carry out the procedure on time, the gardener will provide both correct growth and higher yields for the future.

First of all, attention is paid to dried branches or branches that are frozen. Then they proceed to the removal of annual shoots, the latter only take away nutrients, and because of them, the fruit ovary is formed worse. Subsequent pruning is oriented depending on the height of the trees. However, it is customary to leave at least 8 eyes for a large apple tree and about 3 for a dwarf species.

The optimal crown should have only 3 tiers: the lower one consists of three skeletal branches, the other has four branches, and the third one has a pair of frame branches.

Summer

In the summer, only pruning of the last year's shoots is often carried out, the development of the buds, as well as the color and size of apples, depends on it.

In hot weather, pinching and breaking out bends are often used without using tools. True, in order to cope with competitive tops, you still have to use a pruner.

If you ignore such procedures in the summer, when it is easiest to cut apple trees, you will have to spend much more effort later, because the sprouts will get stronger and grow.

autumn

Removal of extra branches in the fall occurs immediately after the leaves fall and is more of a sanitary and preventive direction.

Gardeners, before the onset of the first frost, struggle with rotten, old branches and branches with defects.

The autumn pruning scheme for apple trees consists of the following steps:

• branches deserve priority largest sizes, as well as those that have damage;
• then the gardener proceeds to places with the densest crown, leaving only even and strong bends;
• branches that have grown under right angle, are also subject to removal;
• after the procedure, one should not forget about the treatment of wounds with septic tanks;
• in order to avoid fungal diseases and pests, the branches are burned, not stored.

Classification of pruning apple trees depending on age

Removing branches from old trees and pruning young apple trees makes a very significant difference. So, the procedure with young trees is often carried out in the spring in the first year after planting. This ensures the proper development and intensive growth of fruit trees.

Pruning annual trees

Young trees are not yet branched, and cut them at a height of about 80-100 cm from the soil. The crown is represented by lateral branches. In rare cases, when apple trees have branches, all branches up to 70 cm from the surface of the earth are subject to pruning.

The remaining branches are carefully examined and those that grow at the wrong angle are removed. In extreme cases, a spacer is used for such taps. In addition, the top of the trunk is also cut off, about twenty centimeters.

An important rule on how to prune a young apple tree is subordination - older branches must be stronger than young ones.

Otherwise, new shoots are removed. But do not forget about the measure, otherwise you will only get a beautiful crown, and you will have to wait a long time for the harvest.

Pruning biennial apple trees

There are no special differences when pruning a two-year-old tree from the previous one.

The advantage is given to the strongest branches, as well as those forming a wide angle from the trunk. The number of branches left, which will form the skeleton, is approximately equal to five.

The top of the conductor is shortened by twenty centimeters, and the branches are only slightly cut. The lower branches are shortened by about thirty centimeters. If there is a branch located parallel to the conductor, it must also be removed. Otherwise, the apple tree will have two trunks.

Pruning three year old apple trees

Trees at this age need to shorten the trunk itself at the level of the second tier. It is located 10-15 centimeters higher than the intercircumferential gap. As for the main skeletal branches, their length is also reduced from 10 to 15 cm. The branches growing from the main ones are subject to the same procedure.

Pruning four year old apple trees

Like the previous pruning, the fourth year of the tree's life requires shortening the trunk by 1/3. Branches are also cut off - from 10 to 15 cm. The difference of this age is the appearance of thinning, which is subject to branches at the top of the apple tree, whose growth was about 80 cm per year.

Pruning five-year-old apple trees

At this point, the top of the tree is already formed.

The shoot is removed on the trunk with a wide angle, measuring fifty centimeters from the second level. The conductors of the main taps and branches of the second order, as before, are shortened by 10-15 cm.

Closer to the sixth year of the apple tree, the formation of the crown comes to an end, and another main branch appears.

Pruning old apple trees

Regular pruning of old apple trees will help maintain optimal fruiting at the proper level. Apple trees can still bear fruit well, but if it has become noticeable that growths have become less than twenty centimeters, anti-aging pruning old apple tree just needed.

It will help prevent stunting and also restore yields. The entire crown of the apple tree is carefully thinned out - branches that create excessive density and those that are directed inward or intersect with each other are eliminated.

The best option for rejuvenating an aged tree is to remove a couple of problematic large branches than many small ones. This procedure should be carried out at least a month before the start of the growing season.

And it is allowed to remove branches that have dried up, damaged or interfere with excessive density at any time of the year.

Most modern varieties of apple trees are large trees that reach 8 meters or more. Harvesting at such a height is almost impossible. That is why apple trees form 3-4 m each. In addition, if the fruit tree is allowed to grow naturally, the crown becomes so dense that the leafy shoots displace the fruit shoots, which means that the yield decreases. We will tell in the article about the methods of forming the crown of an apple tree, their differences and benefits.

Many varieties, with proper care, are capable of producing over 100 kg of apples from one tree, provided that each branch receives enough light and nutrition. Formation of the crown of the apple tree:

• regulates growth and fruiting;
• controls the quantity and quality of fruits;
• makes it easy to pick apples.

What determines the formation of the crown of an apple tree

You can create the shape of an apple tree crown by cutting and bending branches. Varietal apple trees reproduce mainly by grafting. Pruning features are directly dependent on the stock. The type of tree is also important. Often breeders work not only on the taste of apples, but also on the shape of the crown.

There are many such hybrids that require minimal pruning. Others need to be pruned more intensively, because they quickly grow the remaining branches. Read also the article: → "". The height of the crown formation, depending on the rootstock, is indicated in the table:

1. Apple trees on vigorous rootstocks are cut to a height convenient for harvesting.
2. Medium-sized, grafted on dusen, need much less adjustment, since their biological basis does not allow trees to grow over 5 m.
3. Varieties on paradises are the smallest among apple trees, but also the most fragile. They definitely need a support to which you can not only attach a tree, but also create an intricate figure out of it.

Apple trees can be formed not only by pruning, but also by bending branches so that the upper tiers do not cover the light with the lower ones. Sometimes it is enough to move the shoots so that they are in the sun. Bend back young flexible branches until they are stiff. There is another reason why the young crown needs to be bent - this is the angle of growth of the branch from the trunk, it should not be less than 450.

Firstly, the sharp angle directs the shoots inside the crown, and secondly, such branches easily break from snow, wind and bountiful harvest, because they have a thin layer of connective tissue with a trunk. If the branches to the trunk are located at an angle of 450 - 900, this ensures a strong fusion. To fix the branches in the desired position, you can use spacers or pegs.

Tip #1 You can do this at any time of the year, but better in spring or summer. In autumn and winter, the shoots become woody, so they can be broken.

Crown pruning methods (schemes)

The main method of creating a crown is pruning. It is subdivided into:

• sanitary;
• molding;
• supporting - pruning shortening and thinning;
• tweezing.

Features of pruning in young apple trees

In subsequent years, their growth and direction is formed based on the chosen method of pruning, but the principle is the same for everyone:

• the lower tier - the longest and thickest branches;
• each subsequent tier is shorter than the previous one so that the upper branches do not cover the sun;
• branches should not be parallel one above the other;
• each tier, as if revealed to the light.

When the main form is hatched, it is supported by shortening and thinning pruning, which is connected as the apple tree ripens. The older the tree, the more young shoots require adjustment, because the main branches are already formed. This type of pruning brings fruiting closer, because it promotes the laying of fruits.

1. In the first year, choose a well-placed branch and shorten it, leaving 4 buds;
2. Cut off in the second year side shoots on a flower bud;
3. In the third and fourth years fruitlets are formed;
4. In the fifth year, the first fruits appear.

Pruning old apple trees in the garden

Sanitary pruning is aimed at removing dry, broken and diseased branches. It can be carried out at any time of the year, with the exception of the spring period, when abundant juice production begins. Pruning shortening is carried out not only with thin shoots. As the tree grows in height, shortening or complete removal of thick branches is required. Then the pruning technique changes radically.

To shorten thin shoots, a pruner is used, thick branches are cut with garden saws. You can’t leave hemp, because the cambium does not have time to tighten the sections and when they dry out, they become entrance gate for pathogens. Too deep a cut in the trunk leads to the same consequences. The most optimal ring is flush with the trunk.

Tip #2 First, file thick branches from the bottom, and then cut them from above so that the bark on the trunk does not come off under the weight.

Young branches can be formed by tweezing, pinching off the top of the shoot. It is carried out in order not to allow the branches to grow in length and redirect the sap flow to the maturation of the remaining tissue. Thanks to this, the shoots are reliably strengthened until winter and do not freeze over.

Timing of pruning branches on apple trees

The most favorable pruning time for an apple tree is the end of winter, early spring, when the tree is still “sleeping”. At this time, pathogens and pests do not pose a threat to plants, because they are under the snow, which is still lying or has just melted. Most often this is the beginning of March, if there is a lot of work, it is worth starting at the end of February. Pruning is started when the temperature does not drop below minus 120.

The duration of the work depends on weather conditions. Temperature drops are dangerous for injured shoots, so you need to check the forecast for the near future, otherwise the sections may freeze. The signal that it is time to stop is the swelling of the buds on the tree, this usually occurs in late March, early April in the middle lane. In other regions, it is important to look at local conditions microclimate.

Pinching is done after flowering, when the top of the shoot has opened all the leaves. This procedure can be performed later, but as long as the shoot is green, flexible and easy to pinch off.
In the summer, thinning is pruned, starting in July, when the growth of the current year has gained momentum and you can see which branches grow inside the crown or intersect with fruit trees.

Types (schemes) of pruning trees in the garden

Among gardeners, the following crown trimming schemes are most popular:

• tiered - sparse;
• spindle;
• bowl;
• vertical palmette.

Longline - sparse pruning of branches

The name speaks for itself, with such a formation, the branches are arranged in tiers, so that they do not cover each other. Outwardly, it is very similar to a natural apple tree, only of a smaller height and density.

The sequence of creating a tiered - sparse crown:

• the first year - lay the height of the trunk, and the first tiers of skeletal branches. To do this, measure 50 cm from the root collar, the lower branches are planned here. From this point, lay 30 cm - this is the height of the future crown. Everything above is cut off;
• the second year - two branches with the opposite direction of growth are left in the lower tier. The top branches should not overhang the bottom ones. The distance between them is not less than 15 cm. Those that do not satisfy the scheme are removed by a ring, the rest are shortened, but not more than one third;
• the third year - the formation of branching on skeletal branches. To do this, cut off the main branches at a distance of 50 cm from the trunk. Shoots that have grown over the year - competitors are removed to the ring. If the leader exceeds the length of the shoots, shorten it as well.
• fourth - lay another branch of the final tier. In the future, the resulting form does not need to be changed, at this stage it is completed;
• the fifth and subsequent years - the shape does not change, only the crown increases in size. It needs to be thinned out, and the shoots shortened.

Scheme of crown formation with a spindle

Such a scheme is otherwise called Spindel or Spindelbush. The peculiarity of the formation of the arrangement of branches in a spiral is that each subsequent one is shifted relative to the bottom. If the branches are connected, you get a spindle.

Scheme of crown formation in the form of a low-volume flat spindle

You can achieve this form in stages:

• select the conductor and constantly maintain it only in a vertical position;
• determine the height of the bole at a distance of 50 - 70 cm from the root collar;
• side branches should be half the length of the conductor;
• 3 - 5 branches are left on the lower branches, 1 - 2 on the middle ones. The upper ones are the shortest.

Pruning branches in the form of a bowl

This technique is applied to low-growing apple trees that are grafted onto Dusen. These varieties are thermophilic, so the method, like the hybrids themselves, is not common in cold climates. Lately, due to global warming, attempts to grow apple trees in this way are becoming more common.

In the first year, the formation is the same as in the tiered-sparse planting. The difference is that they try to place the branches at an angle of 1200. The conductor is cut off completely above the upper branch, which replaces it. In subsequent years, the resulting shape is maintained by pruning shortening and thinning.

Vertical palmette of grafted seedlings

This type of pruning is applied to apple trees grafted onto Paradiski. These small trees with fragile trunks definitely need support. Gardeners have developed a technique for attaching the crown to horizontally stretched strings. The result is a decorative figure, which, moreover, bears fruit.

The design for the palmette resembles devices for vertical gardening. On a fence or on a wall, the wire is pulled horizontally. The distance between the strings is 40 -45 cm, the latter is located at a height of 2 - 2.5 m. A vertical support is installed in the center.

The crown of the apple tree is a vertical palmette.

The sequence of palmette formation is shown in the table:

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of pruning

Which method to choose the gardener decides for himself. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the variety of the apple tree and the method of grafting.

• The most common method is tiered-sparse, familiar to most gardeners. Its advantage is in the traditional formation of the crown with a well-defined leader, as in nature.
• Spindle - more hard way requiring additional knowledge and skills. Apple trees formed according to this scheme are easy to care for, have an accessible height and look decorative.
• The cup-shaped form, as a rule, is given to heat-loving trees that cannot withstand severe frosts. These are short and medium height trees. This pattern is more common in Europe in countries with warm climates.
• Vertical palmette is typical for the most fragile apple trees that cannot withstand the wind, so they need support. This method is the most time-consuming, the tree needs to be cut and tied up several times during the season. But the result is worth it.

Apple tree care after pruning

Thin shoots after pruning special care dont need. Cambium quickly tightens small sections. It is important to ensure that the instruments are treated in time with disinfectants so as not to introduce an infection.

After removing thick branches, cuts are treated with garden pitch or special garden paint. These products form a protective film through which pathogens and pests do not penetrate.

The places where the branches are cut should be covered with clay or garden pitch.

Crown pruning mistakes

Mistake #1. Many gardeners spend only spring pruning and do not attach importance to autumn.

Sanitary pruning in the fall reduces the risk of diseases in the spring, since the affected branches and shoots are burned after removal.

Mistake #2. Stumps after cutting.

Rotting of the bark occurs on them, which attracts pathogenic microflora, the tree becomes infected.

Mistake #3. Excessive tweezing (pinching shoots).

Leads to intensive growth of vertical tops. Instead of shrinking, the number of shoots becomes even greater.

Rubric for gardeners "Questions and answers"

Question number 1. They cut off a large branch, smeared it with garden pitch, and juice came through it. Why?

Most likely, the pruning took place too late on time, and the released juice washed out the paint. In this case, it is better to wait until the cut dries, otherwise rotting will begin.

Question number 2. We were waiting for the snow to melt so we could trim. When this happened, buds swelled on the trees. When to cut?

It is better to start early at the end of February and listen to long-term forecasts.

Question number 3. This winter, a healthy branch broke off without visible damage. Why did she grow so close to the trunk?

That's why it broke off because the fusion angle was less than 450. In this position, the branch with the trunk has a thin layer of bark, which cracked when the temperature dropped, and the frost destroyed the split further.

Question number 4. When to start forming an apple tree?

In the first year after planting, to balance the root system with the ground. So that the roots can "feed" the crown.

Question number 5. I bought an apple tree at the garden center to form a palmette. Planted in the center of the garden in a conspicuous place, she disappeared in the first winter. Why?

Varieties grafted on Paradizka do not tolerate drafts and temperature changes, they prefer places protected from the wind. In all likelihood on open area there was none.

​Related Articles​

With good care, trees planted with high-quality unbranched annual seedlings during the growing season create several short lateral shoots with upper generative buds. Crowned seedlings will also have poor growth with generative buds at the ends.​

The next year, at a distance of about 80 cm, 2 more branches are left, growing in opposite directions and located in the same plane as the branches of the first tier. In the third year, 2 more branches of the third tier are left, formed according to the same principle as the branches of the previous tiers. Thus, a flat crown is obtained. Fruits are formed on shoots growing on the main branches and the central conductor.

make the first tier

. The principle of formation resembles a sparse-tiered one, but still there are differences.​

. In some areas, the procedure allows you to protect the tree from low temperatures.​

Therefore, a year later, in the spring, it is necessary to trim the top of the spike. They do this on the basis of the rules, namely, at a height of 60 centimeters, 4 kidneys are counted, and the next two are plucked out, 2 kidneys located above are left in reserve. In the future, to obtain a vertical shape, the strongest and strongest upper shoot that has appeared will be tied to the thorn. This will create a new top. Do not forget about the second, weaker sprout. It needs to be cut out. Also, the spike will not be needed, it is removed the next year.

Thus, all options for crown formation come down to ensuring the correct balance of the growth force of the base conductor and the main branches growing from it.

• Experts advise first of all to shorten the trunk by a third, and then thin out especially dense zones.
• At the end of the third season, the creation of the "spindle" is completed.
• The convenient form of the plant allows you to qualitatively and without extra hassle collect future harvest. With a tall and overgrown apple tree, this is much more difficult to do.

You have probably noticed the difference between apple trees in an old private garden and plantations of farm fruit trees. On the site most often grows one or two mighty trees. While on commercial sites, the plants are low and everything, like a blueprint, is the same shape.​

The absence of post-planting pruning significantly weakens the growth of trees and stimulates early fruiting, and ultimately reducing the cost of their formation.

• Properly formed at a young age, the crown of an apple tree in the future requires only supportive pruning.
• . Semi skeletal branches must differ in an inclined position.​
• Three branches of the first tier should be directed in different directions. The angle of divergence between them should be approximately 120 degrees. Each of them must be cut 40 centimeters from the center conductor, due to which pair branches will be obtained. The center conductor must be shortened above the top branch. If desired, it can be shortened after 1 - 2 years in order to give the optimal strength to the skeleton.
• In our time, the formation can be carried out according to the following principles:
• It is better if the crown has a beginning in the form of several closely spaced branches, they will form a whorl. The distance between such branches should be no more than 15 centimeters. And for this we left the lower kidneys at the very beginning. After pruning, new shoots will appear from them, which will form branches of the first order in the future.
• ​Obviously, the central conductor must be taller, stronger and more powerful than the processes. When the branches grow to the same level with the conductors, shortening is carried out.
• The cutting angle should be 45 degrees. For mandatory removal, processes are recommended that are located at an acute angle to the trunk, since they break more often than others under the weight of apples.
• The plant stretches up to three hundred centimeters during this time.

So, in order to obtain stable and good yields, one should not neglect such important element care as the formation of apple tree branches.

Of course, their height depends on the age of the apple trees, but professional gardeners definitely worked on the silhouette. Is it so important appearance trees, what does it affect and, most importantly, how to properly form a crown?

• In the second year after planting, pruning is also practically not used. However, the growth of trees must be controlled, since some trees sometimes have branches on the trunk and competitors of the conductor. They must be removed in the spring. The center conductor is not shortened and measures are taken to active growth up to a height of 2.5 m. If the conductor exceeds the specified height, it is removed above the lateral fruiting branch.
• Hello, dear readers of http://tecurate.ru. ​
• Three years later, the height of the crown will reach 2 - 2.5 meters. Now the formation can be completed. Above one horizontal branch, remove the central conductor by adjusting the height of the apple tree.​
• ​In without fail avoid

sparsely tiered

Scheme of the formation of the crown of an apple tree

Beginners are able to do the necessary pruning on their own. To do this, you need to choose the appropriate method and study the main principles of work.​

Anti-aging procedures for the apple tree are carried out closer to spring, but until the moment when the tree has no leaves and is at rest.

As a result, the stem is shortened over any process that is not vertical.

This method is considered the most popular and the reason lies in the ease of shaping technique:

A garden with young apple trees needs constant care and control over its life cycle.

In the summer, in mid-late June, the competitors of the conductor break out in the upper part of the crown, leaving the continuation shoot intact, as a result of which short lateral branches with upper generative buds are formed on the conductor.

• Formation and pruning of an apple tree according to the "French axis" system
• Watch the video in order to successfully care for the apple tree and guarantee its yield, obtaining delicious fruits.
• Overgrowing of the central part of the crown
• cupped
• Depending on the number of branches in the whorl, the development of the tip will depend.
• ​More information can be found in the video.​
• First of all, get rid of the upper branches.
• Removing the stem is not so important for certain types of apple trees, since the formation of their lateral processes going faster. In this case, if the trunk grows 50 cm per season, it is shortened for the symmetry of the growth of new branches.
• The silhouette of the apple tree remains as natural as possible.

One of the main elements of caring for fruit plantings is crown formation. With the help of a certain algorithm, the structure of the structure, the shape and volume of foliage are created.​

For the third and subsequent years, the same procedures are performed as for the second year. The conductor is not cut, allowing it to grow freely to a height of 2.5-3.0 m. If the central conductor goes beyond the specified height, it is pulled out from top to bottom (preferably above the lateral fruit-bearing branch), avoiding pruning with pruners. Do the same with strong side branches in the upper part of the crown. This weakens the growth processes above the place of the torn branch.

- one of the articles on the formation of the crown of fruit trees. If you have apple trees in your garden (and, of course, there are) or you are planning to plant an apple orchard, then information on how to

If the apple tree is not cut, the tree will form a natural crown during its life, consisting of a trunk and branches of a different order extending from it. Over time, such a crown thickens.

. To do this, cut off the branches of the main branches.

vertical palmette

If only one branch is placed below, and there are no others, this is not very good and it is better to refuse to buy such a seedling. And vice versa, if there are more than 4 of them, then oppression and weak growth of the top of the trunk will occur.

Every owner of a summer cottage dreams that garden trees gave a rich, generous harvest, and the fruits pleased with their bright color, aroma and size. To achieve all this on your personal plot, do not forget about pruning. And if you haven’t done it yourself until today and don’t know where to start, carefully read this article. She will help you figure everything out correctly.

• This is done for better conductivity of sunlight to the lower parts, which means that their productivity increases.
• This pruning technique is used for plants that do not grow well and are not durable.
• The branches on the tree take the form of tiers.
• The need for pruning the branches of an apple tree is experienced throughout life. So, for trees of middle and old age, it is important to cut the crown in order to rejuvenate the culture.

This method is recommended for older trees, and especially for vigorous varieties Boskop, Braeburn, Gala, Elstar, Jonagold. Pulling out branches begins in mid-March and is completed within two weeks after the end of flowering. Cancer disease of fruit trees does not occur at the site of torn branches.

shaping and trimming

Inside the natural crown, fruit formations age. Flowers do not appear on them. The harvest is formed only on the upper branches of the crown, and the quality of the fruit is significantly deteriorating. Branches that branch out at sharp angles often break. In addition, an apple tree with a natural crown grows quite tall. It becomes difficult to take care of her. As a result, the tree is exposed to the invasion of various pests and pathogens of fungal diseases.

Do you want to increase the productivity of your apple tree? Take care to keep short branches, which are sure to please with delicious fruits.​

Fusiform.

• All extra branches for 3-4 years must be completely removed. In this case, it is desirable that the angle of departure of the whorl is from 90 to 40 degrees. If this is not observed, and it will be blunt (more than 90 degrees), the branches will sag and grow poorly. In the event that the angle is less than 40 degrees, such branches will break from the weight of the fruit.
• Pruning of apple tree seedlings is carried out in two ways: climatic (thinning branches) and shortening. In the process of shortening, it is necessary to remove part of the fruitful, perennial or annual branch. Thanks to this type of pruning, it is possible to cause thickening of the shoots of apple-tree seedlings, to help eliminate fruit overload on the tree, and to slow down the aging process. Shortening will help awaken young buds, change the direction of growth and increase branching.
• The appearance of shoots will also increase, on which flower buds can later be tied.
• The method of creating a structure resembles a tiered-discharged view, but has its own characteristics.
• This kind of feature can be called increased yield trees and longevity.
• Often the thickening of the tree is due to the fact that in frosts the base trunk dies and the intensive development of lateral processes begins, which eventually turn into the main conductors.
• Pruning should be moderate so as not to activate growth.

apple trees according to the "French axis" system

To avoid this, the crown of the apple tree begins to form from the first years of life.

This type of apple tree crown is ideal for trees that are grown along the fence or walls of houses,

• ​What features should be taken into account?​
• It is not enough to plant an apple tree and wait for a good harvest. It will take effort to make it bear fruit. And it is advisable to start with circumcision and crown formation. Procedures must be carried out while the apple tree is young and its branches are thin. If this is not done in time, you will often be surprised at the small harvest. With proper pruning, your garden trees will be beautiful, hardy and productive.​

Thinning is the annular removal of shoots at their base. First of all, get rid of deformed, frozen, dried up and thickening crown branches.

• You can carry out rejuvenation in the summer. In the first half of summer, during the rest season of the fruit tree, major pruning is carried out. So, the main branches are shortened by three quarters and the areas of greatest concentration are thinned out.
• In the first row, three branches are bred in different directions, making sure that the angle of the divorce is approximately 130 degrees. The branch is shortened, leaving 45 cm from the trunk.
• On the site, the apple trees are arranged in such a way that they are spacious, leaving an interval of three meters between adjacent plantings.
• Unfortunately, an illiterate procedure causes more damage to the plant than it helps to develop properly.
• Plantations with too strong growth are pruned after 2-3 years, removing no more than 2-3 large branches at a time. First, those side branches are removed, the thickness of which at the point of origin exceeds half the diameter of the trunk. In most cases, the removal is carried out with the oblique replacement knots left.
• . The information was shared by Candidate of Agricultural Sciences V. A. Alferov, Senior Researcher of the North Caucasus Zonal Research Institute of Horticulture and Viticulture.​

The most popular types of apple crowns are sparse-tiered, cupped and vertical palmette.

• along the boundaries of the land
• This formation option is

This video will show you how to properly form the crown of an apple seedling

These two types of pruning are carried out at the same time, regardless of the growth of the seedling and its fruiting.

After the operation, it is necessary to water the apple tree abundantly. In the autumn, the tree trunk is whitewashed, protecting part of the bark of the standard zone.

The task of this stage is to get two processes.

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Pruning planted apple seedlings

It is necessary to start designing by this method after winter, measuring a plot on a seedling at a distance of half a meter from the soil. Recall that a plant that has been grafted is an annual, while a rootstock can be up to two years old.

Features of pruning seedlings

Young apple trees and those that have already begun to bear fruit form different ways, the choice of which takes into account:​

This causes the formation of shoots with obtuse angles of origin, mainly on the underside of the knot. Weak fruiting twigs are usually left without pruning. It is important to thin out the upper part of the crown, avoiding thick side branches and branches with sharp angles of discharge. With very strong growth, cutting the roots of trees is performed.

Gardeners, laying a garden in small plots, plant trees quite densely. It is important to remember that the first harvests in intensive plantations are proportional to the number of trees per unit area. However, excessive thickening reduces the strength of the growth of planted trees, and within three to four years they reach the maximum yield, and trees with a less dense planting reach their maximum size in the fourth or fifth year after planting, and from the third or fourth year they give a higher yield per tree. , and during this period, the yield per unit area of ​​plantations with a dense planting (over 4 thousand trees / ha) and with a less dense planting (3-3.5 thousand trees / ha) levels off.​ Formation of a discharged-tiered crown. It will take about four years to form. After this period, the tree will delight with delicious fruits and productivity.

one of the most popular

Every gardener knows how important it is to shape the crown of a growing apple tree. This procedure ensures that each leaf will be exposed to the sun for at least three hours daily. Sufficient exposure of the apple tree to sunlight allows each leaf to receive energy (nutrition). Otherwise, the energy will not be enough, and the fruits will acquire a sour taste. In addition, the lack of pruning will cause the tree to be very tall and harvesting will be difficult.​

Pruning is an important and serious agrotechnical method. It must be carried out at a certain time, the most optimal is when the seedling is in a dormant period.

Crown formation is most often carried out in the spring.

Directly the main stem is shortened above the central branch located on top. This procedure is recommended to be carried out next year. The skeleton of the tree will become stronger and more resilient.​

Another 30 cm is marked above the place of the stem. In this place, the first order will be located, consisting of three basic shoots.

Tree age.

In summer, strong shoots are pulled out if they appear in the crown. Tree growth in the third year is stronger than in the second and the yield can reach 30-35 t/ha.​

​Over-dense plantings lead to excess consumption planting material than unreasonably increase the cost of planting a garden, and the first higher yields do not always pay off the additional costs of laying super-dense plantings. Based on experimental data, gardeners European countries concluded that optimal compaction for early harvests and cost recovery associated with additional placement of trees per unit area is achieved when planting trees with a placement pattern of 3.5 m between rows and 0.7-0.8 m in a row.​

Methods for forming the crown of seedlings

The discharged-tiered crown is very reminiscent of a naturally formed crown. The branches on such a crown are arranged in tiers. This is the most common type of crown in apple trees.

Skeletal branches should be placed in the same plane. As a result, the crown will be flat. In each tier, which is part of the central conductor, you will need to leave two branches, but they must grow in opposite directions from each other. The distance between the tiers should be 80 centimeters. The crown resembles a natural shape in appearance. The branches on the trunk should be arranged in tiers. Apple trees can please with longevity and productivity, but at the same time, trees must be placed at a distance of four meters.​

When should one of the most important apple tree care procedures be carried out? From the very beginning

Therefore, keep in mind that in each climatic region, pruning is carried out in different time. So, if you live in a warm southern region, spend it in the autumn-winter period, and it is advisable for residents of the middle lane to do this procedure at the end of the winter season.

This is done before bud break, usually in March and April.

Usually, this appearance is given to fruit trees growing around the perimeter of the site, in border zones as a barrier or along artificial objects. The algorithm for creating a structure for a curb tree shape takes four years. Then cultivated plantings begin to bear fruit.

After 10 months, the processes formed in the stem are cut off. In a row, a shoot is kept at a distance of 30 cm, and then two, with a distance of 20. The principle of the method is the mirror arrangement of branches.

Crown formation at an apple tree seedling (video)

If the trees have begun to bear fruit, then from the third year you can begin to apply "cyclic" pruning. Anti-aging ("cyclic") pruning consists in the fact that each branch successively goes through the phases of growth and fruiting.

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Formation of the crown of an apple tree - features and video

M9 is the most common low-growing apple rootstock used in modern intensive plantings. It allows you to keep the height of the trees within 2.5-3.0 m, and the thickness of the fruit wall of the row is up to 1.0 m. However, the strength of the growth of fruit trees in the garden depends not only on the type of rootstock, but is also largely determined by the fertility of the soil . On powerful fertile chernozems, fruit trees grow much stronger than on poor sandy soils. This makes it difficult to care for trees in compacted plantations, and sometimes leads to overcrowding and reduced productivity.​

Features of crown formation: how and when

Such a crown is formed very easily. On the trunk of an annual seedling, we leave a trunk 50 cm high. Above the trunk - another 30 cm for laying three or four main branches of the first tier. Cut off the center wire. 3-4 buds should remain on the trunk, which look in different sides, and one tallest bud from which a continuation of the trunk will grow. In order for the shoot growing from the kidney to move away from the trunk at the right angle, you can use clothespins. A clothespin is attached to the trunk above each kidney, which creates an obstacle for future escape. The shoot will no longer grow vertically. The angle of its departure will be almost 90 degrees. Attention should be paid to the shoots. They will need to be moved to an inclined position. Later, fruits will appear on them. Formation should begin with measuring the bole zone on an annual seedling. Keep in mind that the rootstock may be three years old, but the grafted shoot must be one year old. The distance from the ground should be approximately 50 centimeters. Above the measured trunk area, you must outline an additional 30 centimeters, where the three main branches belonging to the first tier will be located. Branches growing higher should be cut.

pruning must be done correctly Scheme of pruning seedlings At this moment, the tree will not lose a lot of juice, since its intensive secretion has not yet begun, which means that the wounds on the apple tree will dry out and heal faster.

When creating a palmette:

1. It is better to leave branches up to a size of 35 cm, as small shoots produce better apples.
2. Type of vaccination.
3. In varieties that bear fruit on one-year and two-year growths (Golden Delicious), predominantly fruit-bearing branches are removed after the second year.

It must be remembered that all undersized rootstocks have a superficial root system.In the spring of next year, 3 branches are left above the trunk, growing in different directions and located about 15 cm above each other. The ends of the branches are cut at the same level. All other branches are removed. The main branches need to be pulled up, but only if they are deviated from the central conductor.

Apple crown shapes

A year later, on the trunk, which managed to appear,

• and regularly, because subsequently significant difficulties may arise. The formation of the crown guarantees the growth of the required number of skeletal branches and their correct placement. In the future, new branches with leaves, fruits, will appear on each branch, guaranteeing good development tree and the chance to enjoy amazingly tasty fruits.​
• ​If you're pruning in the winter, pay attention to the temperature. It should not be lower than -10 degrees Celsius. Even better if you wait for the thaw period. If you cut seedlings at severe frosts, the tissue will begin to freeze on the sections, which can subsequently lead to the development of diseases. Yes, and wood becomes very fragile during significant frosts.
• Pruning is also carried out in summer.
• The branches of the core turn into a surface lying in the same plane, and they are located on the same line.

For the next season, another row is laid at a distance of 45 cm from the previous level. Now the creation of a tiered-discharged form of an apple tree is completed. Then you just have to remove the base conductive process above the single branch from above. Culture growth should not exceed 2 meters.​

Sparse-tiered crown

There are several goals for giving a certain shape to young fruit trees. Varieties with fruiting on two-year and three-year growths (Gloucester) have a three-year branch change cycle. The branch is cut not into a ring on the conductor, but leaving a replacement knot up to 10 cm, which facilitates the growth of new shoots. They do not make replacement knots only in the case of cutting the lowest branches in the crown of trees with a relatively low trunk in order to increase it. And you need to start with the choice of seedlings. For the formation of axis-like crowns in dense stands, seedlings with a sufficient number of short branches, with obtuse angles of departure from the guide and generative buds at the ends are better suited. Unbranched seedlings are also suitable for this system, although to a lesser extent. Weak seedlings are completely unsuitable for the formation of axial crowns.

In the third year, 2 more skeletal branches are left, located 50 cm above the branches of the first tier. These branches are also located one above the other at a distance of 15 cm. They are also cut at the same level. Only one increment is left at the top of the conductor. If it rises strongly above the branches of the second order, it is shortened.

The width of the crown can be two meters. Delete all branches Pruning should begin a year after you planted an apple tree in the spring. Be prepared for the fact that young seedlings have a weak root system, and therefore the crown can only be shortened by a third at a seedling height of about 60 centimeters, half - at a height of 60 centimeters. If the height of the seedling is less than 60 centimeters, only the lower branches can be cut. Remember that the main conductor should be 40 - 50 cm higher than the skeletal branches of the apple tree. Prepare for the fact that the formation will need to be carried out annually. You can guarantee a good growth of lateral branches if you trim the branches of the crown.

In the summer, the so-called green pruning is carried out, it includes pinching young shoots. As a rule, such pruning is not very common and is considered auxiliary. The reason for this is the appearance of many new shoots that need to be thinned out, and the remaining ones should be spread in the required directions. To achieve this effect, all shoots are removed on the trunk in each row, leaving a pair, moreover, having an unequal direction of growth.

This method is fast because it does not process a large number of shoots. It is important with this method to correctly trim the core of the conductive branch.

The main ones:

Cupped crown

In addition to carrying out cyclic pruning, it is necessary to regulate the thickening of the branches on the conductor. If the trees have a height of approximately 3 m, then every year you can leave in the spring on the conductor of new long shoots from 40 to 60 pieces. This means that part of the annual growth must be cut out in order to prevent excessive thickening of the crowns. The initial formation of trees according to the “French axis” system is carried out with minimal use of pruners. When forming an axial crown after planting trees, neither the conductor nor the side branches are shortened. In branched seedlings, only all branches in the bole area are removed up to a height of 70-80 cm of the soil surface and branches that compete with the conductor. Branches are cut into the ring in the stem area and too thick branches, which at the place of origin exceed half the thickness of the conductor. In the spring of the fourth year, another branch is left at a distance of 40 cm from the branches of the second tier. And a year later, the central conductor is cut off above the upper branch. Crown formed. In the future, you only need to make sure that the height of the crown does not exceed 2.5 m.

Height can be adjusted

. In the first tier, you can leave a branch at a height of 50 centimeters and two others (located above), but the distance between them should be 15 centimeters. One branch should go in one direction, and the other two should go in the opposite direction. Trim the ends of the branches at the same level. Take care of the cut of the shoots that appeared at the place of the cut of the central trunk. You can leave the branches if their length is less than 30 centimeters, as they are sure to please with fruits. about a quarter of the growth length Before starting the pruning process, pay attention to the age of the fruit tree and the characteristics of its varieties. It is also necessary to take into account the size of the crown, the nature and type of wood. So, vigorous trees need to be pruned weakly and not as often as, for example, dwarf ones. If this is neglected and pruned heavily, this will contribute to the strong and rapid growth of new shoots. And as a result, the crown of the tree will thicken greatly.

However, there are also opponents of summer pruning.

The levels are formed symmetrically vertically and have a distance of 85 cm. The main shoots can be removed with improvised tools, using, for example, a pruner, since the jewelry of the cut is not fundamentally important in this case. The thickening of the apple tree causes the appearance of some diseases. One of them is scab. For this reason, the fruits lose their taste qualities and their appearance deteriorates.

After cutting a perennial branch, quite often a whole bunch of new shoots grows at the place of the cut. These shoots must be thinned out, cutting out the strongest, growing vertically, and leaving the weaker ones, growing somewhat elevated or horizontal. On biennial branches, vertical annual growths are removed, which close the penetration sun rays inside the crown.

Branches with sharp angles of departure from the central conductor are bent to a drooping position. Unbranched seedlings are not shortened after planting if they are in good shape. When planting one-year-olds with single branches in the crown zone, weak branches are not cut off, but strong ones are removed or bent to a drooping position.

Apple trees with a discharged-tiered crown are capable of producing high yields.

, But it depends on the number of tiers, which is important to remember when forming. In the third year, 50 centimeters from the first tier, you can leave two skeletal branches at a distance of 15 cm from each other. New skeletal branches will be required.

In the first year after planting the seedling, it is necessary to carry out the first pruning. If it is planted with unbranched annuals, they must be crowned - make a cut of annuals. Its height will depend on the growth of the rootstock. On average, it is about 90 centimeters. Varieties on medium-sized and seedling rootstocks are cut higher than dwarf and semi-dwarf ones. As soon as the shoots grow up, it is advisable to remove the leaves (sniffing) in the shamba area. In the event that the seedlings are planted as two-year-olds, it will be necessary to shorten the skeletal branches to the outer buds. As a result, we will achieve the expansion of the fruit tree. The order of pruning shoots is as follows: the upper ones are cut off by 2/3 or 3/4, and the lower ones by 1/3 or even less.

spindle crown

The main argument of experienced gardeners is that in summer the greatest amount of useful elements accumulate in the leaves of apple trees. The processes that appear on the main shoots and the skeleton are bent. It is on them that apples will ripen in the future. A spindle-shaped crown is formed for three years, although a processed apple tree will be able to bear fruit in the second season:

Weakened branches lose strength and break from strong gusts of wind. From the freezing of apple trees with a large number of branches, the wood is weakened. This is typical for such a variety as Borovinka. For the same reason, the appearance of the departure of the main branches at an acute angle is observed. This problem occurs in apple trees of the Terentyevka variety.

Formed trees according to the “French axis” system have a trunk 70-80 cm high, a strong central conductor - an “axis” up to 2.5-3 m high and lateral, evenly spaced fruit-bearing branches no older than three years old with obtuse angles of discharge. Systematically updated pruning in the crown leaves only lateral branches, which in diameter at the place of origin do not exceed a third of the thickness of the conductor. m and leave without pruning until next year. The cupped crown is formed in the same way as the discharged-tiered one.

After watching the video, you will definitely make sure that it will be convenient to grow an apple tree in a limited area.​

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garden.guru

Apple tree crown » Orchard and vineyard

What goals can be achieved through the formation of the crown of an apple tree?

If you cut seedlings that are not properly formed (have a one-sided crown), the branches must be shortened to lateral buds, which will be directed exactly in the direction where there are no skeletal branches.

By removing young shoots, valuable substances are lost.

Base branches should be tightened if they have noticeably moved away from the head. If the processes are not deviated enough, then, on the contrary, they are pulled back.

Discharged-tiered crown

The main thing is that the base shoots have time to appear. Typically, trees with this shape are planted at a distance of two meters.​

Special techniques and types of pruning make it possible to maximize the penetration of natural light into the thickness of the leaves. Since the apple tree needs intense sunlight for rapid growth and proper development, allowing you to get fruits as early as possible. Usually fruiting occurs a year or two earlier.

The varieties Alva, Lobo, Melrose, Red Delicious are unsuitable for formation according to the French axis system.

Most of the branches end in fruit buds. For this type of seedlings, there is no need to bend the branches to a drooping position.

A bole 40-50 cm high is left on the trunk of an apple tree seedling. Above the bole - another 30 cm for laying skeletal branches. Everything above is cut off.​

This way of forming

. Competitors must be eliminated. The growth of the central conductor, exceeding the end of the main branches, must be shortened.​

Cupped crown

No risk of crown thickening.

Pay attention to the angle at which the skeletal branches deviate from the trunk. If the angle of departure is very sharp, the growth of the skeletal branch will significantly outpace the rate of formation of fruit wood, which can lead to crop loss. Such skeletal branches can also contribute to low photosynthesis by adversely affecting crown light. They are very weakly attached to the trunk and in the event of a bountiful harvest, they can break off from the weight of the fruit. It follows from this that sharp corners in the formation of young fruit trees must be increased to at least 50 degrees. At the same time, they use spacers made of wood or use braces.

With this form, the tree grows in length according to the number of rows. It is possible to adjust the value when trimming the base processes and the trunk annually. Growth for 12 months is shortened by a small distance. Horizontally, the tree grows by about two hundred centimeters.

A tree with a spindle-shaped branch structure has a base stem with central branches that radiate in different directions.

The quality of apples also depends on the shape of the apple tree. Instead of wasting supplies nutrients on branches and leaves, part of the necessary elements goes to the development of fruits. So, the sugar produced during photosynthesis accumulates directly in apples.

Varieties that bear fruit on 1-2 year old branches: Idared, Gala, Golden Delicious, Jerseymak, Jonagold, Cortland, Renet Simirenko, Champion are best suited to be carried out

Due to the lack of post-planting pruning, crowned seedlings take root worse. Therefore, care must be taken to keep the soil moist. It is advisable to mulch the soil with manure, sawdust, bark or black foil, which help maintain soil moisture. Ideal Solution- install drip irrigation or under-crown irrigation, and if this is not possible, then the trees must be watered two or three times abundantly at the beginning of growth.​

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Formation and pruning of an apple tree according to the "French axis" system

Formation and pruning of an apple tree according to the "French axis" system - general remarks

In the spring of next year, 3 branches of the first order are left, extending from the trunk in different directions. Each of them is cut 40-50 cm from the trunk. And the central conductor is cut right above the upper main branch. is one of the easiest Next spring, you can lay another branch. You can give the crown certain form. As a result, it is possible to prevent growth upwards or to the sides.​And a year after planting, skeletal branches can be cut off, transferring to the outside. It is possible during this period to get rid of the processes growing along the skeleton.

An amazing feature of the apple tree is its almost eternal ability to produce a crop. Although, the intensity of fruiting decreases markedly over the years.

The process is best to start from the first year of the tree's life. Plants that do not yet have branches.

​Create robust design necessary for a fragile tree to withstand the significant weight of a large number of apples. This moment is especially important for apple orchards in open, unprotected areas.

Formation and pruning of an apple tree according to the "French axis" system

Formation and pruning of an apple tree according to the "French axis" system - where to start

In the spring, in the first year after planting, on the stem of the seedling in the area of ​​​​the stem, the buds after germination must be removed after germination, sniffing to a height of 70-80 cm above the soil surface.

Next year, branches of the second order will form on the branches of the first order. Further branches of the third order, etc. It is necessary to ensure that the branches do not move to the center of the crown. To do this, cut off all the branches directed inside the crown. They leave only small growing branches on which fruits appear.

. Pruning apple tree branches will be minimal. Please note that the center conductor must be cut correctly, and semi-skeletal branches can be cut with secateurs. It will take about three years to create a crown. The first fruits can be obtained in the second year. Apple trees should be located at a distance of two meters from each other.

Now you can consider that the formation of a sparse-tiered type of apple tree has been successfully completed. After two years, it is necessary to cut off the central conductor above the upper branch, which will be single. Remember that the height of the crown should not exceed 2.5 meters.​

Risk of reduction in fruit size and deterioration in their palatability.

Consider the ratio of the growth of the lateral processes and the conductor. Everything will depend on the type of crown. If it is spreading, then the conductor itself should be 10 or 15 centimeters higher than the side branches, and if it is pyramidal, then by all 25 centimeters. In the event that the central conductor is missing or weakened, it can be replaced with a process that will be located below.

Formation and pruning of an apple tree according to the "French axis" system - the first year

Cut branches in the autumn season.

The long-lived apple tree is kept by everyone possible ways, one of which is clipping. There is an opinion that it is more expedient to remove the old tree, replacing it with young seedlings of new varieties. If there is a desire to leave an elderly apple tree, then this is done by forming the main structure of the branches.

Cut off the apple tree, leaving most of the skeleton.

As a result of breaking branches on a tree, wounds appear that begin to rot, heal poorly and are more susceptible to frost. This leads to the occurrence of diseases and even the death of apple trees.

Formation and pruning of an apple tree according to the "French axis" system - the second and subsequent years

In summer, shoots with sharp corners of discharge are removed on the conductor in the upper part of the crown. They are broken out while they are still in a grassy state, when they reach a length of 15 cm, or they are shortened, leaving knots 1-2 cm long. Over time, new shoots with obtuse angles from the trunk will appear below. The future conductor is left to grow freely.

Apple trees with such a crown are usually grown along the boundaries of the site. In such a crown, the branches are located in the same plane.

A prerequisite is the presence of a central conductor with semi-skeletal branches extending in different directions. You can process annual seedlings.

This crown is perfect

When wondering how the upcoming procedure should be carried out, it is very important to watch an informative video containing answers to all your questions. The following aspects will depend on the correctness of the planned procedure: yield, ripening period, beautiful appearance and pleasant taste of the fruit, the risk of tree disease. Too dense crown increases the risk of developing fungal diseases due to high level humidity. In addition, a large number of branches and ovaries

There are quite a few options for crown formation in trees. And if you know at least a few, you will be able to independently and most importantly correctly form the correct crown for your trees. Consider the most simple forms. One of the best and lightest is whorled longline. For its formation, it is better when the tree has a short trunk, and branching begins at a height of 60 centimeters. If the shoots are located above the specified height, then in the future, when it becomes tall, it will be difficult to harvest from it.

This does not affect the amount of the future harvest.

The main task of pruning in this case will be the maximum opening of the center and thinning of the branches:

Formation and pruning of an apple tree according to the "French axis" system - cyclic pruning

When the first branches sprout on the main process, the first row is created in the middle of the trunk, rejecting the central parts.

In dense foliage, it is easier for pests that can spoil the bark of a tree to settle.

In August, individual branches with an acute angle of departure from the central conductor are given a drooping position, tying them up so that they are directed towards the base of the trunk of a neighboring tree.

On the central conductor above the trunk, 2 branches are left growing in opposite directions. These are the branches of the first tier.

In the middle part you will need

suitable for low-growing apple trees

Columnar apple trees formation

It is important for amateur gardeners to know that the formation of the crown of an apple tree is as necessary a process as a haircut for a person. Only, unlike us, the apple tree not only becomes neglected, but also loses its productivity. To avoid this, the fruit tree should be properly looked after from the first year of planting. Save him from the consumption of nutrients on extra branches.

The reason for the need to form a crown

Regular crown formation is vital for apple trees during the entire fruiting period. What gives such an action besides the convenience of harvesting a bountiful harvest?

• Planting fruit crops is rejuvenated.
• Branches are strengthened, which prevents them from breaking off and rotting of damaged areas.
• Skeletal and fruiting shoots are correctly formed.
• When pruning an apple tree, diseases associated with crown thickening are prevented.
• Fruiting is not only improved, but its terms are extended.
• The branches are better illuminated and ventilated.
• The sugar content of fruits and their size increases.

If you do not prune, the plant runs wild in 2-4 years. The yield, weight and taste of apples will decrease. A randomly formed crown will deal a colossal blow to the apple tree and can finally destroy it.

Given this, crown pruning is carried out sequentially, taking into account free space garden plot and own plans for the harvest. Work should begin the next year after planting apple seedlings, which will achieve better results.

Features of crowning young apple trees

The formation of the crown of a young apple tree begins with the correction of the shortcomings of the seedlings. Do not get involved in active pruning of branches. Dwarf varieties it is permissible to shorten somewhat more than tall ones, otherwise the latter can greatly thicken the crown.

Croning apple trees is carried out by thinning and shortening shoots, regardless of age. Whether it is first-year seedlings or older trees, they all need this procedure.

• Thinning is the removal of branches at the base.
• Shortening - cutting off part of a fruitful shoot.

Due to this, the process thickens, aging slows down, new buds awaken, the direction of growth changes and the formation of shoots increases. Two methods of circumcision of the processes are carried out simultaneously.

As a rule, the crowns of young apple trees form in the fall if the crops were planted in the spring. Seedlings planted in autumn are not touched until summer. The gap between planting and cutting allows seedlings to strengthen the root system.

Preparatory work

It is very important to correct shortcomings at an early age, which in the future may turn into an “empty” tree growth. That is why the crown of apple trees begins to form from a young age.

Crown Disadvantages	How to fix?
High placement of the first branches.	Cut off the trunk (central conductor), a competing branch and 1-2 more subsequent ones, to a height of 1.2 m or a meter. From the remaining ones, choose a fresh trunk and shoots for the base.
Long stem.	Shorten the conductor and subordinate the branches to it. Otherwise, the lower tier will slow down in growth, the stem will stretch too much and spend 1-2 seasons longer on the development of a fresh crown.
The base of the apple tree is suppressed or absent.	Find a shoot suitable for the formation of a fresh conductor. Old - cut on the ring above it. Fix the new main branch and cut it to the desired height. Shorten the remaining branches "for obedience."
Delicate branches of the forming skeleton.	Cut the central conductor, and direct the branches in a vertical direction. If necessary, change the main support of the tree and, accordingly, begin the formation of a new crown.
Branches of different formation strength.	Bend strong processes to the level of the horizontal, set the weak ones vertically. If not enough, shorten strong processes.
Too many branches	Choose 3 formed, conveniently located branches. Cut off the rest.
Shoots from below are weaker, higher - more developed.	Change the angle of inclination of growth, due to which weak branches will increase. If necessary, shorten large processes and trunk.
Few branches.	When more than one has not grown, it is better to lay a new foundation for the crown.
Active strengthening of a competitor to the main conductor.	Options for action: Cut it down, remove it completely after a couple of years. Procedure with good branches. Cut out the competitor and the main trunk, replacing the latter with a strong lateral process growing lower. Replace the barrel with a competitor.

The age of grafted seedlings is considered from the period of the beginning of bud growth. The roots may be much older.

Pruning apple trees one year old

Methods for the formation of the crown of the apple tree "first year" depend on the number of shoots. First, always remove all lateral processes at a level of 100 cm from the ground. Further act "according to circumstances".

• On a very branched seedling, the first tier of side branches is placed at a height of 70 cm from the ground. Remove branches located at an acute angle to the trunk. In the future, they will interfere with the clear formation of the crown of the apple tree and break off under the weight of the apples.
• With a general lack of branches, “sharp processes” can be pulled back with stretch marks. Provided that an angle of about 90 degrees is reached, such shoots are cut off 3 or 5 buds from the base. When the branches of an apple tree go almost horizontally, it will begin to bear fruit faster.
• In the process of crown formation, the trunk of the apple tree is kept above the “sidewalls” by about 20 cm.
• When the trunk is weak, a strong upper branch is tied to it, then it is replaced with it.
• The competitor of the trunk is removed or bent down to the horizontal.
• The shoots of a one-sided apple tree are shortened to lateral buds directed in a slightly overgrown direction. A year later, they are "unfolded" outside the crown.

Booking General Rules

1. Subordination - previously formed branches should be stronger than later processes.
2. Shortening only branches that have grown to 70 cm on the outer bud. When the variety is not prone to thickening, it is cut to the inner kidney.
3. All work on the formation is carried out when the sap flow in the tree is slowed down.

Spring shortening of the crown on a spike

• Having measured the height within 60 cm, then 4 kidneys are counted.
• Behind them, the next 2 kidneys are pinched off.
• A couple of spare kidneys are not touched from above.
• The most developed upper branch is tied to the spike. It turns out a new top.
• Weak sprout is cut out completely.
• The next season, the spike is removed.

Setting the goal of correctly forming the crown of an apple tree in the first year, it is important to achieve the following results:

• Establishing the dominant position of the central conductor. In drooping varieties, 15 cm above the main branches, in "pyramids" - 20 ... 25 cm.
• Eliminate competing branches.
• Correspondence of the number and location of skeletal branches to the selected type of crown.

The optimal appearance of an apple tree of the same age after carrying out all the work is a freely growing crown and several tiers of branches.

Pruning biennial apple trees

Work begins in the spring, before the start of sap flow and bud break. Each tier is laid with a distance of 30-40 centimeters from the one below. Pruning does not allow branches to cross.

Scheme of work

• At a height of half a meter from the ground in vigorous varieties of apple trees and 80 cm in weak ones, all branches are cut off to start crown formation.
• 3-4 skeletal branches are selected, located on opposite sides of the central conductor, located at an angle of 45 ° -60 °. The approximate distance between the branches is 15 centimeters.
• The main conductor is left to rise above the "frame" by 20 cm (5 buds) so that the crown of a young apple tree is formed strong. Lateral shoots are shortened by one third of the length to a bud, which should look outward from the main stem.
• Vertically growing processes on skeletal shoots are cut off completely into a ring.
• The rest are bent to a horizontal position.
• Small, weak branches are left for future fruiting.
• The procedure for removing competitors - twigs that are equal in strength and growth rate - completes the scheme for the formation of the crown of a two-year-old apple tree. First, each is shortened by half, and after 2 years they are cut to the base.

The process of formation of biennial apple trees depends on the variety. Strongly branching species are cut to a third of the length of the shoot, little branching - by half.

In older apple trees, the pattern of crown formation changes. By the fourth year, cut off any overgrown shoots. The departure angle of single-level branches (whorl) should be 40 ° ... 90 ° so that they do not sag or break. Upon reaching the central conductor up to 4 m, it is bent and turned into a side branch, like all shoots of the upper whorl.

There is no specific time frame for crown formation. Some amateur gardeners believe that the first 3-4 seasons, the procedure should be repeated annually. Others, at the end of the second year, do not advise touching apple trees for 3-5 years, and recommend pruning only to remove unhealthy or broken branches.

Features of working on old trees

Old apple trees, as well as young ones, need crown formation. With age, trees become overgrown with a large number of branches. The need for more nutrients increases. Excessively thickened crown does not allow penetration sunlight prevents ventilation. As a result, apple trees are affected by various diseases. In addition, young and old branches are subject to mechanical damage. Given these criteria, anti-aging pruning is shown to old apple trees.

Work on the formation of the crowns of old apple trees is best done in the fall. The main task is to open the center and thin out the leaf and branch cover.

2-season formation scheme

• Dried branches under the trunk are completely removed.
• Also come with broken, intertwined, growing inward and crooked branches.
• Most of the vertical shoots are removed from the first tier of the apple tree. Leave 10 pieces for the whole plant and only those that are directed from the trunk at an angle. Of these, fresh fruitful shoots are formed in the crown of the apple tree.
• All extreme branches are cut into a third.
• Open the center of the crown. To do this, cut off the top of the apple tree so as to create solar lighting new strong shoots (2 m from the top).
• When fruiting is normalized on the thinned part of the crown, the same operations for crown formation are repeated with the second half of the apple tree. The center conductor is not touched.

In the first season, along with pruning the crown, the root system is necessarily rejuvenated: in early spring, a trench up to 4 cm long and up to 70 deep is dug from the “trimmed” side of the apple tree. The roots passing through it are chopped off.

Rejuvenation option in the first half of summer: the “skeletal” branches of the apple tree are shortened by 3/4 to form the crown and the areas of the greatest accumulation of shoots are cleared. After the summer "haircut", the tree is watered when it passes autumn pruning- whiten. Fruiting is extended and the quality of apples is improved.

Anti-aging pruning is organized not only for old, but also for young apple trees with a very thickened crown.

What to do with running apple trees?

It is not easy to resume full fruiting in neglected apple trees. The formation of the crown of such trees will require maximum effort from the gardener. It is better to perform manipulations at the end of winter or early spring, before the start of sap flow. Pruning is carried out annually for several seasons.

The nuances of work

• When the state is running, only diseased, weak and broken shoots are first removed. Forming the crown of an apple tree, the tool for work is disinfected after each cut off branch. All cut material is burned at a considerable distance from the garden.
• On the large tree for one “haircut”, no more than two large branches with a diameter of up to 10 cm are removed. Cuts up to 2 cm thick are best overgrown.
• Shoots up to 4 cm thick or the volume of a pencil are cut under a kidney.
• A tall old apple tree, when forming a crown, is cut at a time no more than a third of the length.

If the mass cut in one season exceeds 1/3 of the tree, it can be irretrievably lost. Any further attempts to "reanimate" the plants with pruning or fertilizer will not help.

When to prune

There is no unanimity among gardeners as to when preparations for the formation of the crown of apple trees and the work themselves should be made. We can only talk about the generally accepted trend when it is customary to carry out certain works.

Most gardeners are categorically against shortening the apple tree in winter to form a crown. They also do not approve of the work in the summer too, because with cut branches the tree loses a solid part. useful substances needed for growth.

• If gardeners plan to increase productivity and eliminate a lot of dry branches, it is better to “cut” a tree in the spring.
• When it is required first of all to improve the health of the apple tree and form the correct crown, it is advisable to cut the branches before winter.

As with any job, practical advice to help you:

• Pruning an apple tree for crown formation should be carried out with a well-sharpened and disinfected tool, without rust.
• The branches cut from the "winter" processing must be burned.
• Wounds should be healed with special mastic, garden pitch or, in extreme cases, oil-based paint.

Careful handling of a tree is the main rule of shaping and healing pruning in any season.

Methods and schemes

Different types of culture can form a crown in different ways - depending on the variety, type and personal preferences.

For dwarf apple trees

Properly shaping a dwarf apple tree is important for any respective cultivar. The main thing is that it should be zoned according to the area, and the timing of fruit ripening should fit into the warm period of the year. All manipulations begin with the removal of young growth, so that the remaining elements of the crown receive more nutrition. It is important not to overdo it, otherwise some of the roots, deprived of the supply of useful elements from the crown, will die off.

• On a competitive branch located near the upper bud of a dwarf apple tree, the upper buds are removed for uniform crown formation. This stimulates the growth of the middle buds for the formation of strong shoots on the competitor of the trunk. "Pinching" is possible until the process has turned into a formed apical bud.
• The growth of branches is controlled so that strong shoots are located along the crown below the weak ones.
• The crown of a dwarf apple tree is formed by rejuvenating or forming pruning, depending on whether it is necessary to “correct” the appearance or improve the quality and quantity of the crop.
• The ovaries are thinned out, starting after the natural fall of their excesses in June. After shaking each branch, poorly holding ovaries themselves fall off. In order not to spoil the formation of the crown, crooked, infected and small fruits are removed from the apple tree.

As a result of all the efforts, the plant concentrates on “feeding” the fruits.

For columnar apple trees

Like any apple tree, columnar beauties require constant care. Approximate scheme formation for the first 6 years of the tree's life will look like this:

1st growing season. Shorten the central conductor and side shoots.

2 year. Pinching lateral shoots to a length of up to 30 cm or pruning into 2 buds. The upper one is left for the future continuation of the trunk.

3 years old Compared to last year, the pinching of the side branches is increased by 10 cm, the top one is carried out at a height of 20-25 cm.

4 year. Remove all small and weak shoots along the trunk. Thinning out the shoots of the previous season

Year 5 Planting growth is limited to three meters. During this period, the crown is thinned out and in June a green pinch of young branches is produced.

6 years and beyond. Annual spring thinning of thickening branches.

Pruning rules:

• The crown is more actively formed on the sides if more extra shoots are cut off on the columnar apple tree.
• It is possible to cut a branch at a time until only two buds are left on it.
• The apical bud during formation is always inviolable.
• Do not shorten the stem.

The main essence of the formation is to remove the processes growing from the main conductor.

The growth of a large number of lateral shoots that prevent the apple tree from forming a crown is prevented by small processes with underdeveloped lateral buds (ringlets). Due to this, the tree requires less pruning.

Tiered sparse formation

The simplest and most common way to form the crown of young fruit trees. With this scheme, apple trees bear fruit well and for a long time.

Seasonal work schedule:

Year from planting	What should be done?
1	Measure half a meter from the soil - the height of the trunk. After another 30 cm - the location of the future 3 processes of the lower tier. The branches above are cut off.
2	Cut out the shoots on the trunk. The lower tier of branches is left with a “fork” - one lower and two higher, branching in the other direction. The "gap" between the two should be approximately 15 cm. Further, the "lengths" are cut at the same level. Competitive shoots are cut from the central trunk. It is allowed to leave only small ones (up to 30 cm), which will give a good harvest.
3	Half a meter from the lower tier, select a couple more strong branches. One is 15 cm higher than the other. Align in length. Cut off any competing branches. If the trunk is too “vymakh”, it is cut.
4	1 branch is laid 40 cm from the underlying level. The primary formation of the crown of the apple tree is completed.

For the sixth season, the main trunk is cut to a slight elevation above the upper single branch. They try to maintain crop growth no higher than 2.5 m.

Spindle shape

The basic formation of the spindle-shaped crown of an apple tree occurs in 3 years. The recommended distance between plantings is 2 m. The first apples appear in the second planting season.

For formation, one-year-old plantings of apple trees without branching are chosen. First, shorten by a third. The processes that have grown from the trunk are bent, placing semi-skeletal branches with an inclination.

The second season is marked by a new shortening of the conductor and the formation of the next "tier" of the branched mass. By the third year of formation, the crown grows to 2 m or more. The main trunk is removed above the selected horizontal branch, which finally completes the crowning.

For some varieties, pruning the main stem is not essential, since the apple tree still quickly forms side shoots of the crown. In this case, the central conductor is significantly cut off if its height reaches half a meter or more.

Cupping

A similar formation of deciduous-branch cover is usually chosen for any trees growing low, weak apple trees. They work like a sparse-tiered type, but with minimal differences. The formation of a cup-shaped crown in an apple tree comes from first-order shoots, branching in opposite directions by about 120 degrees. Each is shortened 40 cm from the trunk for the subsequent formation of paired branches. The main trunk is cut off above the top large branch - in the same season or after 1-2 years.

In the future, for the uniform formation of a cupped apple crown, it is important to look so that the core of the tree does not grow. To do this, completely cut off the processes of skeletal branches going to the center of the crown. Only small shoots are left, from which fruits will subsequently ripen.

vertical palmette

A convenient and slightly unusual way to trim a crop is a vertical palmette. A similar variant of the formation of an apple crown the best way suitable for landings standing next to a fence or wall. A maximum of 4 years of work - and your fruit crop of an "unexpected" form will actively share apples.

Creating a vertical palmette, gardeners line up the processes of the "skeleton" in one plane, on opposite sides of the trunk. To prepare the apple tree for the formation of a crown, in each row coming from the central conductor, a pair of branches is left, extending in opposite directions. The distance between the tiers is 80 cm. To obtain a crop, branches are prepared extending from the "skeleton" and the main trunk - they are placed by tilting down. The base shoots of the skeleton try to completely align.

The height of the crown formation of the apple tree is regulated by the gardener on an individual basis, using the annual pruning of the growth of the “skeleton” and the main trunk (by 1/3 of the height).

The advantage of forming a vertical palmette is the possibility of using the land under the apple tree for other plantings, easy harvesting.

Creeping or slate crown formation

The method is preferably suitable for the formation of an apple crown in stocky varieties with good fruiting, although the plant still has to be artificially bent down. Some gardeners refer to this method of shaping with pruning as arctic.

Working with a one-year-old seedling

• The seedling is chosen low, planted in the spring.
• The main trunk during the formation of the crown of a creeping apple tree is immediately cut by 10-15 cm and gently bent to the soil by about 90 degrees. It is important that the gap from the soil to the first branches of the shoots is no more than 40 cm. The structure is fixed.

The work is carried out in May-July. As a result, the shoulders of the crown and the base branches of the first "tier" arise from the side branches.

Formation in the following years

• A creeping apple tree for the 2nd year of crown formation on each shoulder of the plant forms separate trunks in spring.
• All branches that have grown since last year are pruned so that they do not rise above their central conductor.
• Maximum leave up to 4 skeletal branches. After bending, their tops are pinched.
• Weak processes in the process of forming the apple crown are cut off completely so as not to “overload” the young plant with nutrient costs.
• Fruit shoots are left, because their absence inhibits fruiting. After pruning, there are more of them, and the apples ripen more actively. Each shoulder is overgrown with its shoots.
• Further formation of the crown of the creeping apple tree is primarily due to the cutting of vertically growing branches. The third level of branches is not assigned.

Pros and cons of mini-formation

The formation of a stunted culture has its pros and cons. Correlating them with the peculiarities of weather conditions in a certain area, one can clearly decide whether it is worth developing low plantings there or limiting oneself to forming the crown of an apple tree of habitual growth.

• The “warm season” is increasing due to the increased temperature and minimal windiness in the surface layer.
• Apples appear quickly. In cold northern conditions, it is realistic to grow varieties intended for the middle zone of the country in a similar way.
• Mini apple trees are practically not allowed on trunk circle weeds.
• The formed crown of a small creeping apple tree is easier to cover from frost than a large tree.

The only negative is the “hunger” of mice for small trees. Therefore, they try to wrap the culture with nylon or lutrasil.

Complete non-interference in the development of the apple tree is unacceptable. Its growth will “leave” in the foliage and a bunch of branches. Therefore, for everyone who wants to receive an excellent harvest, it is important to regularly engage in the formation of the crown of the apple tree, ensuring the correct balance of the strength of the growth of the trunk and the main shoots.

Candidate of Agricultural Sciences A. MIKHEEV. Photo and drawings by the author.

End of April - beginning of May - the best time to update the old garden. this is, of course, troublesome, but remember the proverb "The eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing." so it's time to get to work.

Science and life // Illustrations

Rejuvenation pruning is the main way to tidy up old overgrown trees.

An old apple tree before rejuvenating pruning.

Apple tree in spring after rejuvenating pruning.

Fruit tree after regrafting "tops": a - "tops"; b - grafted varietal cuttings.

an arboretum after shortening the tops.

Formation of a branch from a "top": 1, 2, 3 years after rejuvenating pruning. Three years later, when the "tops" turn into strong branches, the rest of the branch is cut off.

Plum varieties Alexy.

The fruits of the Chinese Kerr are tasty and attractive. This apple tree is well pollinated by varieties of domestic apple trees.

Veles pear (bottom left). Self-fertile cherry variety Bulatnikovskaya.

Trimming ornamental shrubs "on the stump" - the branches are cut down to the level of the soil. Among the plants that can be cut in this way are derain, cotoneaster, elderberry, cinquefoil, skumpia.

Rejuvenating pruning of ornamental shrubs.

Rejuvenating pruning of gooseberries: on the left - before pruning, on the right - after pruning.

Learning to graft.

Information Bureau. Learning to graft.

Terms of sanitary pruning of ornamental bushes.

Most often, the impression of neglect is created by old fruit trees: apple trees, pears, cherries, plums, their crowns rise up to 6-8 m, the branches are intertwined so that you can’t get into the middle, the bark is peeling, there are still a lot of fruits, but they are small.

If the trees are already 20-30 years old, but their trunks and skeletal (main) branches are still healthy, and the fruits, although small, but tasty, the trees can be rejuvenated. Strong pruning causes the awakening of dormant buds on the trunks and at the base of the skeletal branches. In summer, strong vertical shoots grow from them, which are called "tops". The following year, some of the "tops" are cut out, and a young crown is formed from the rest - for this, the "tops" are shortened, leaving one or two lateral buds. Another year will pass, and long, almost horizontal shoots will grow from these buds, and after two or three years, large fruits. With good care, rejuvenated fruit trees can produce decent yields for another 10-15 years.

With a part of the “tops” that have appeared, you can do otherwise: regraft them with the latest varieties that give higher quality fruits. Revaccinate in early spring ways vpriklad and vraschep. The difficulty lies in the fact that a large number of “tops” will have to be re-grafted, and as a result, both new grafted varieties and old variety which is not very desirable. In the future, it will be necessary to cut out unwanted branches of the old variety every year.

If fruit trees have hollows, the bark lags behind the wood, there are almost no annual growths and the yield is negligible, they will have to be uprooted. It would seem that the easiest way is to cut down a tree trunk at a level of 40-50 cm from the ground, and then remove the skeletal branches. But this can be done if the trees grow at a sufficient distance from each other and, when falling, do not damage neighboring plantations. With a tight fit, it is advisable to first carefully cut down the largest branches, chop off the roots, and then cut down the trunks at a height of 1-1.5 m from the ground: it will be easier to swing the bases of the trunks during further uprooting.

Physical effort during uprooting can be avoided by using ammonium nitrate. Two handfuls of it are poured into a small depression, hollowed out in the middle of a hemp (30-40 cm high), covered with plastic bag and tied with twine. After three to four weeks, the saltpeter will corrode the wood, turning it into dust. A month later, in good weather, the stump is set on fire; it tends to burn out well, making room for planting other plants.

But, starting new landings, you must adhere to certain rules. For example, it is not recommended to plant an apple tree in the place of an old apple tree, a pear instead of the old pear, a cherry in the place of the former cherry. As in vegetable growing, it is customary in horticulture to rotate crops. Where an apple tree grew, it is better to plant a pear, cherry, plum. The main thing is that the young seedling does not end up in the shading of adult trees. If the variety is self-fertile, it is enough to plant one plant. Among the self-fertile varieties: cherry Youth, Bulatnikovskaya, Rusinka, Rastorguevskaya, Pamyat Enikeeva; plum - Morning, Egg blue, Blue gift, Alexy. If the variety is self-fertile, and there is only one vacant place in the garden, grafting will help out. For example, in the crown of a plum of the Skoroplodnaya variety (a winter-hardy, low-growing, productive variety), a pollinator variety is grafted - a plum of the Red Ball variety or one of the cherry plum varieties: Kuban comet, Traveler, and in the crown of the own-rooted plum Eurasia 21 (pollinated by far from any variety), which has very large red-violet fruits, the yellow-fruited, early-ripening variety Morning and varieties with dark blue fruits - Blue Dar and Smolinka are grafted as pollinators. This will ensure good cross-pollination of the plum, and fruits of different colors will appear on different branches of the same tree.

Cherries can also be planted on the vacated places in the garden, but since its varieties are self-fertile, it is advisable to place several seedlings nearby. If there is not enough space for new seedlings, grafting will help again. Having bought Fatezh sweet cherries of medium ripening, the next year one or two other varieties are grafted into its crown, for example, the early Chermashnaya variety with yellow fruits and the Bryansk pink variety with pinkish fruits. As a result, when entering into fruiting, there will be three varieties on one tree different term maturation and various colors. They will provide good mutual pollination and abundant fruiting.

In low places in the garden, both cherries and cherries often die from decay of the roots. They will grow only when using hardy forms of vegetatively propagated rootstocks: P-3 (Muscovy) and PN (Izmailovsky) - for cherries; VTs-13 and LTs-52 - for cherries. You can also grow a fruit-bearing apricot in the Moscow region, but you don’t need to plant it in the form of a root plant grafted onto an apricot, but use a plum as a rootstock, which tolerates temporary waterlogging of the soil.

Almost completely stopped picking chokeberry berries (chokeberry) in the gardens, and cutting down powerful bushes is a pity for many, and it’s not necessary - a pear can be grafted onto its branches. The branches of chokeberry, of course, are not as thick as those of a pear, therefore, in places where the stock grows together with a scion, swellings are formed, indicating their incomplete compatibility. Over the years, under the weight of fruits, they will tend to the ground. But you should not be afraid of this: the bent grafted branches need to be tied up for the winter to posts or a wire trellis, and they will winter well under the snow. In the spring, they need to be lifted and tied upright to the support. This is how you can grow tender pear varieties north of Moscow.

It is also possible to graft modern pear varieties on wild hawthorn, red mountain ash, shadberry at the age of three to five years. To ensure mutual pollination and good fruiting, different branches are grafted with several varieties of pear: Velesa, Chizhovskaya, Vidnaya, Bryansk beauty, Thumbelina. Cuttings of these varieties take root well on these rootstocks. The trees have a restrained growth, early (in the third year) they bear fruit, give fairly large fruits of good taste (the stock does not reduce the quality of the fruit). The disadvantage of such vaccinations is the fragility of trees. They grow and bear fruit for 12-15 years, while pears grafted on a pear can bear fruit for 30-40 years.

It is good to use a young tree of red mountain ash (3-4 years old) as a stock, planting Japanese quince cuttings on it. On its own roots, Japanese quince is a low shrub that attracts attention with orange-red or yellow-orange flowers, but flowers are often lost among green leaves. If you graft a quince on a mountain ash trunk at a height of 1 m, then the cap of bright flowers will become much more noticeable. Rowan grafting is easy. A tree is left with a trunk about 1 m high and three or four branches. The buds and side branches on the trunk are removed, and the remaining branches are cut short into two to four buds. As a result of such pruning, a whole "broom" of young shoots is formed. In the spring of next year, they are re-grafted with Japanese quince cuttings. A year later, the grafted Japanese quince blooms fiery flowers, attracting the attention of neighbors and acquaintances.

Berry bushes also require rejuvenation, but to carry out this work better in autumn. So, currants and gooseberries can grow and bear fruit in one place for 10-12 years. With age, annual growth weakens, yield and quality of berries decrease. Therefore, it is better to uproot bushes older than 12-15 years, take them out of the garden and burn them. It is good to plant other crops in the vacated places - raspberries, vegetables, ornamental shrubs.

And you can do otherwise. Remove all above ground berry bushes, and form a new young crown from the growing branches by shortening 1-2-year-old growths by 4-8 buds. Or: cut old 5-7-year-old branches to the base, shorten 3-4-year-old branches to a side branch and thin out the bushes, removing weak and thickening branches. After rejuvenating pruning, currants and gooseberries yield another 5-6 years.

information bureau

LEARNING TO PLANT

Any vaccination surgery carried out on a tree or shrub. To work confidently in the garden, practice ahead of time at home. Bring home any branches and learn, sitting at the table, how to properly cut cuttings with two or three buds, apply them to each other and tie them.

There are some prerequisites for the operation. First of all - cleanliness. Immediately before grafting, wash the grafting site on the rootstock with water, and wipe all the tools with a napkin moistened with vodka or alcohol. The grafting knife should be sharp - in this case, wound healing is faster and better. It is very important to achieve alignment of the cambial layers of the scion and rootstock. These layers (the zone of young growing cells) are where the bark becomes wood. Fusion is easier to achieve if the cut is not round, but long and oval. The binding of the grafted branch and the cutting should be tight enough. The tighter the scion and stock are pressed against each other, the better and faster they grow together. For strapping, it is better to use a thick, transparent polyethylene or PVC film, which stretches as the graft thickens.

Grafting with cuttings split(pictured right). Make oblique cuts in the form of a wedge 3-4 cm long at the lower ends of the cuttings with a diameter of about 1 cm. ocelli so that their cortex and cambial layers coincide. Wrap the injection site with plastic wrap.

Grafted cuttings with buds carefully coat thin layer garden pitch. Remove the bandage carefully after a month.

Vaccination in the butt(pictured on the left). This method is used with the same (or almost the same) thickness of the scion and rootstock. On the grafted cutting and rootstock, make oblique cuts 3-4 cm long. Align them so that the bark and cambium match. If the scion and rootstock are of different thickness, try to match them on at least one side. Wrap the grafting site tightly with plastic tape, thoroughly grease the stalk with the buds with garden pitch - it will protect it from evaporation and drying out.

Remove the bandage carefully after a month.

TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL CUTTING

1. Sharp tool.

2. When pruning, it is unacceptable to leave "stumps", as well as peeling off the bark on a branch or trunk. Whole branches are removed, cutting them "into a ring". At the base of most branches there is a well-marked annular ridge or influx. Sections along this influx grow evenly and quickly.

3. When thinning the crown, branches are cut out at an acute angle.

4. Cut the upper branches more radically than the lower ones. As a result, the tree is better illuminated.

5. Dry branches are cut down to healthy wood, otherwise the wounds will not heal.

6. Small wounds are washed with a 3-4% solution blue vitriol. Wounds with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm or more are covered with garden pitch.