Plum grows tall how to prune. Pruning and caring for plums in spring and autumn (photo, video). When to prune a plum

The main goal of every gardener is to get a rich harvest. Plum is a delicious wonderful product of our table with medicinal properties. Like any other fruit crop, it needs proper care, which includes crown formation. Competent regular pruning of the plum allows you to maintain good fruitfulness and provides the tree with a long life.

The purpose, types and methods of pruning plums

To form a compact crown that freely allows light, air and pollinators to pass through, pruning the seedling should begin in the year of planting. Young plum grows very quickly. In one warm season, she can release many shoots, because. prone to thickening. As a result, fruit links develop worse, the ovaries are laid mainly on the periphery, the fruits ripen longer and become smaller, more often being affected by the codling moth and monoliosis. Densely intertwined branches make the tree more susceptible to frost. From a lack of light, wood matures worse, which leads to the risk of freezing.

The frost formed on the branches can break them. Chaotically growing shoots, especially those extending at an acute angle from the trunk, are also prone to breaking off and provoke gum disease.

In addition to increasing the yield, a convenient crown with tiered branches will greatly facilitate its collection, and a beautiful well-groomed tree will decorate the site.

Pruning, based on the task being performed, is usually divided into several types:

formative: phased creation crowns required dimensions and forms;
restorative: correction by removing dry and broken branches;
regulating: maintaining intensive growth and renewal of wood;
sanitary: removal of shoots affected by pests;
rejuvenating: restoration of growth and fruiting of the old plum.

Not being a one-time procedure, regular care the plant will need throughout its life.

Formation is carried out in two ways:

cut on the ring. Technique for complete removal of a branch. Cutting is carried out along the border of the influx at the point of attachment to the trunk, avoiding a deep cut or leaving a spine.
Cut on the kidney. It is done by an oblique cut over the kidney with reverse side without leaving a spine at an angle of 45°. It is used to shorten shoots and change the direction of growth.

Timing of pruning and the specifics of seasonal work

The choice of pruning timing depending on the season has its own principles and advantages, depends on climate zone, state and age of the tree. AT southern regions it is preferable to care for the plant in the fall, although it is practically possible to engage in shaping there all year round. In northern and central regions The event is best held in spring or summer.

Spring booking

The beginning of spring - best time work. At this time, pruning is easier to tolerate, which stimulates the laying of buds. The plum tree is one of the first plants to start growing in the garden, so it is important to start the procedure before it starts. The exact time varies by region. Gardeners are guided by the development of the kidneys and the weather, when the night frosts have receded, but active sap flow has not yet begun and the kidneys have not swelled. The formation of a seedling and the rejuvenation of an adult representative should be completed about a month before bud break.

When sanitization with the removal of diseased, frozen and dry parts, there are no time limits. Non-foliated rods make it easier to determine which ones to remove.

If the plums in the garden are of different ages, then it is preferable to start work with older individuals. With age, the flower buds of the plant wake up earlier.

It is more convenient to break the event into two stages. First, thinning of thickened areas is carried out with the removal of excess growth, tops growing upwards. For adult pets, bitches that have descended to the ground can be transferred to new branches. Then you need to start shortening last year's growth of young seedlings. This contributes to the fouling of fruit links and accelerates the entry into fruiting.

Summer booking

Summer is an active season when the garden sets fruit. Generally rejuvenate and shape fruit crops in it time is not accepted. However, the plum also tolerates summer intervention well. Summer pruning by removing fattening tops helps to redirect nutrition to fruitful branches. Also, throughout the season, root shoots are cut out so that there are no protruding stumps below ground level and the trunk. Opening hours are June and July. At the end of the month, the side branches of seedlings of the first and second years are shortened, without touching the central conductor.

The leafy top allows you to notice thickening, which will allow you to plan subsequent pruning during the dormant period. But the frozen sprouts unnoticed in the spring will be discovered right now.

Secateurs will need the whole season and for sanitization. Timely preventive removal of infected shoots will help to avoid the spread of the disease, ensuring a healthy garden.

Autumn booking

cannot be ignored and autumn pruning. The main task of this season is to prepare the culture for winter cold. To do this, all broken, diseased and unripe shoots that are prone to freezing are removed. You can remove too long branches and the top, which can break from frost, heavy snowfall or gusty winds. If diseased or dry shoots must be cut out, then the formation of a crown with thinning is permissible only in the southern strip with a long autumn. Seasonal interference due to reduced healing increases the risk of crop freezing. In the northern and central regions, it is better to postpone events to spring.

Depending on the region, procedures are carried out in September or early October. Usually this is the time after the leaves fall and before the onset of the first frost.

Winter booking

Not all gardeners know and use winter pruning. These include all spring events, but choosing this time of year for manipulation has its advantages:

Work during this time is limited to temperate climates. mild winters. Circumcision should be done in February at a temperature not lower than 15 ° C.

Techniques and schemes for the formation of the correct crown

To create beautiful tree, you need to know the basic principles of its formation. A well-groomed plum looks like a neat tree of medium height with a central conductor and 4-9 skeletal branches arranged in tiers. The lower tiers are larger than the gradually decreasing upper ones. The main branches are never located at an acute angle to the trunk. Shoots grow "outside", forming an unthickened crown. Practiced on plants and cup-shaped.

Most often, seedlings are sold on vigorous cherry plum rootstocks, so the main technique for creating a good foundation is to reduce upward growth and expand horizontally.

Post-planting formation of a young tree

The first gentle pruning begins in the year of planting, so that a small root system is able to provide nutrition to the seedling. Postponing for 1-2 years cutting and pinching twigs delays the growth of the tree. Approach with a pruner to the young
culture can be several times a year, because. growth is uneven. In the first year, the central trunk is shortened to one and a half meters in height, which over the summer will grow future skeletal branches of the first order. The next year, these lateral growths are shortened by about a third or half the length (about 30 cm). The cut is made on the lower kidney to provide further development occurred outside, and not up or inside the crown. The branches that appear below the main ones are shortened to 7-10 cm and temporarily left until the next year. They will help thicken the trunk. In the third year, shoots of the second order are controlled, cut off by half. Of these, you need to leave 8-10 evenly spaced strong sprouts. Then you can completely clear the bole from other branches.

Similar good result obtained by using pinching and bending. In this case, after cutting off the leader, the remaining branches are allowed to grow freely, and then, with the help of stretch marks, bend them to the ground. Having fixed the stretch marks in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ends of the shoots, they leave them in this position for several months. Then, cutting off the branches on a side branch or on a kidney, they create a pyramidal top. This means that the lower tier is longer than the upper and is not obscured by it. Deep-growing or thickening processes should be removed according to the same principle. The crown created in this way after years under the harvest bends the branches down, which leads to the crushing of the fruit. Then fruiting is transferred to young branches, and the inclined branches are removed.

Caring for a Fruitful Plum

A young three-year-old tree already gives large annual increments. The lateral growth is shortened to 15 cm, and the apical shoot is shortened to 30 cm. In order to direct the growth of shoots outward, cuts are also made on the lower bud. In the future, the formed plant will require a simple annual care adjustable cut.

It is not worth starting the processing of the plant at all. After all, even a well-educated crown thickens over time, which will inevitably lead to a decrease in yield and a deterioration in its quality. To remedy the situation, a phased rejuvenation of the plum should be carried out. First you need to remove the growing inside and damaged, dried branches, with root growth. The following year, thinning is carried out, leaving young strong shoots. The update will give impetus to powerful growth. Some young growth will be able to replace the old skeletal females, and the rest should be removed on the ring.

All cuts more than a centimeter in diameter are subject to obligatory coating with garden pitch. This will help to avoid gum leakage, protect the plum from infection and drying out.

Rejuvenation of an old tree

With timely competent processing, the abundant fruiting of the culture lasts about fifteen years. All these years, pruning has maintained a uniform addition of the main conductor and the main branches. Then upon reaching maximum height characteristic of the variety, growth stops. Since that time, the tree is considered aging and requires a slightly different kronirovanie. When the decrease in growth becomes noticeable, they begin to rejuvenate the old plum. This can be seen when the plant produces a small crop, and even that is only at the top of the crown.

The rejuvenation event is divided into several stages:

When the plum reaches about 2.5 meters, the trunk and upper large branches are cut out. This will lighten the crown and unload the center.
Intertwined and inward-directed shoots are removed. At the same time, diseased, weak and dry branches are cut out.
Are liquidated coming from lower tier and shtamba hanging lashes.
Skeletal branches are shortened and transferred to the outer side shoots.
Unnecessary tops are cut off.

Total cutting "everything at once" of the old plum is contraindicated. This will lead to severe stress and may even kill the tree. It is better to stretch the entire rejuvenation procedure for 3-4 years.

Large skeletal branches must be filed on both sides to avoid breaking off under its own weight. The rapid tightening of the wound with bark and the growth of new growth will ensure an even, neat saw cut. A broken place may not give fresh shoots, and a fungus will penetrate into the wound. All cuts and cuts are treated with garden pitch or a mixture of mullein and clay.

Rejuvenation, carried out in accordance with all the rules, will allow a caring owner to receive good harvests from plums for more than one year.

At first glance, pruning a plum may seem like a daunting task. But the recommendations for proper kronirovanie, as it turned out, are not so complicated. Their implementation will allow you to be proud of the beauty of your garden and get decent harvests.

Pruning plums in the photo

Features of plum pruning are similar to those applied to ordinary cherries. The differences lie in the fact that plums tend to form powerful tops in the crown, which sometimes go so vertically and close to the trunk that they “braid into pigtails”. Old branches are often easier to remove entirely than to rejuvenate. Many plum varieties require increased attention to safety due to the presence of thorns - and even a small branch with leaves and flowers - a spur - can end with a thorn. Domestic plum - a hybrid species obtained by crossing cherry plum (spread plum) and blackthorn (prickly plum) - such a "legacy" was inherited from the latter.

Before you properly trim a plum, keep in mind that different varieties this culture is characterized different forms crowns. Varieties with a pyramidal crown are cut to an outer bud or branch to make the crown looser. Optimal length annual growths - 30-40 cm. Plum is an early crop, and the first fruits can be obtained on trees a little over a meter high - of course, subject to good lighting and competent agricultural technology.

A regularly cut plum is prone to the formation of sharp corners in the crown.

As you can see in the photo, when pruning a plum, it is important to control the length and direction of annual growths so that the center of the crown is well lit by the sun:

Plums, especially varieties of southern origin, are susceptible to sunburn and freezers. Competent whitewashing is carried out in the fall, the trunk and bases of skeletal branches are painted - the most vulnerable areas.

Own-rooted plants usually bear fruit earlier than grafted ones.

Varieties with weak branching, fruiting mainly on bouquet twigs and spurs (Anna Shpet, Early maturing red), respond well to regular shortening, which stimulates branching and the laying of fruit formations. To cut a plum, as practice shows, it is advisable not to shorten medium and strong growths, but to thin out the branches. Old branches with weak growths are cut out.

See a photo of how to properly cut a plum in a personal plot:

Proper pruning plums in the photo

Plum usually forms a root shoot, sometimes at a great distance from the tree. The shoots of own-rooted plants can be used for propagation, but if your plum is grafted, then it is more advisable to remove the shoots, or use them as a rootstock. Sometimes the plum gives abundant self-seeding - to combat it, it is necessary to regularly remove the carrion.

The Pruning Plum video will help you get the job done right:

Plum is one of those fruit and berry trees, which need regular pruning. Otherwise, the yield may be significantly reduced, gum will begin to exude from the tree, and the growth of branches will become erratic.

Plum needs an annual,, which will maintain the health and fruiting of the tree. It is necessary to carry out such work according to the scheme - in spring, summer and autumn.

Each period is extremely important for the plum, pruning performs certain functions that maintain the vitality of the plum.

The spring period is considered the most favorable to carry out the procedure. Usually, gardeners appoint such work for the end of March and the beginning of April, when the air temperature will already be warm, and the vegetative processes will not have time to begin.

In the spring, young shoots that grow in the wrong direction and old branches on which you should not wait for fruiting are clearly visible on the plum.

Summer held in June, is indicative of branches that strongly thicken the crown, because their most in the best way can be seen in the presence of lush foliage.

Autumn is carried out for sanitary purposes. Such work is performed immediately after leaf fall.

If the deadlines have been missed, then it is better to postpone the pruning for the fall, because the fresh cut point quickly freezes and in its place gum flow and frost are formed.

Each period has its own advantages and disadvantages, which is why a certain time of the year is suitable for the performance of certain works.

Some gardeners also practice winter pruning. plums, but this species works are unusual and quite specific.

"Garden Head" will tell you how to properly cut a plum:

In spring: correct crown formation

The first three years of a plum's life in spring, it is necessary to form the correct shape of its crown, because the quality and volume of fruiting depends on it. If you skip such work, then the branches will grow randomly and chaotically.

Usually for plums choose a crown made in the form of a tier. That is, 6-8 of the most powerful and thickest branches that grow at a distance of 15-20 centimeters from each other should act as the basis.

They should also be evenly distributed throughout the trunk, and the ideal growth angle should be 50 degrees.

To get such a crown, for 3 years, perform the following actions:

1. In the first year of life plums, all side branches must be completely removed, and the central conductor cut to a length equal to 60 centimeters.
2. In the second year the central conductor is shortened by 40-50 centimeters, including the upper kidney, which should be above the cut point. The lower side branches are cut almost completely, leaving only 7 cm stumps. The remaining side shoots are shortened by a third of the total length.

As soon as the main, skeletal branches begin to emerge, care must be taken to ensure that their angle of inclination from the trunk is within 50-60 degrees. Unsuitable branches should be completely removed.

In the third year of life it is necessary to select 6-8 skeletal branches, all other shoots are removed. On the remaining branches, it is allowed to leave no more than 4 buds.

Further spring pruning plum will be in support correct form crowns:

remove all incorrectly growing branches that grow inside the crown or are located at an obtuse angle;
if there is a too lush crown, it will need to be thinned out, while removing old branches on which fruits will no longer be tied;
in order to help the plum form new fruit branches, it is necessary to halve all last year's growths;
also in the spring, the tree is inspected for all kinds of damage, most often at this stage, broken or frozen branches that have suffered during the winter are removed.

Those branches are subject to mandatory removal where birds damaged their kidneys.

The spring procedure is carried out on a calm, quiet, clear day, when the air temperature is consistently above +10 degrees.

Spring work is considered the most important and necessary, because this period is the most favorable and safe for the health of the tree.

Summer

Summer pruning of plums is carried out in June or July.. Only young trees that are just forming their crown are subjected to this procedure.

For adults, summer pruning can be fatal and is recommended only as a last resort, for example, when a disease is detected.

In the first year of life all branches are shortened to a length equal to 20 centimeters. Starting from the second year, extra branches are removed completely.

In the warm season there is a huge risk of infection infectious diseases, therefore, carrying out summer pruning, you can protect the tree from such problems.

Pruning scheme in autumn

Autumn pruning is carried out after leaf fall when all vegetative processes end and the tree is at rest. Usually, such work is performed in mid-September.

Beginners should remember that this procedure cannot be postponed, because the tree must have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In regions with harsh winters it is desirable to transfer such work to the spring.

Autumn pruning is divided into three types and depends on the age of the tree:

in the first year after planting in the fall, the central conductor of the plum is shortened by one third of the total length, and the remaining branches by two thirds;
regulating- performed for trees of all ages. During it, the crown is discharged, and all rapidly growing or incorrectly growing branches are removed;
starting from the 4th year of the tree's life, every 4-5 years, rejuvenating pruning is carried out, during which all old and unnecessary branches are removed, on which fruiting no longer occurs.

After the first fruiting, autumn pruning is either not performed at all, or only the most problematic branches are removed.

Also an integral part autumn care behind the tree will sanitary pruning, during which all diseased and damaged branches are removed, which can provoke the death of the entire tree.

Unusual Methods

Specific methods of plum pruning, the implementation of which differs from standard work, include winter pruning and processing of old trees.

Winter pruning is rapidly gaining popularity among gardeners living in the southern regions.

The implementation of such work is that all spring work postponed to mid-February, but at the same time the air temperature must be above 10-12 degrees.

The advantages of such work include the fact that at this time there are definitely no buds on the drain, which is why the tree experiences less stress. Also, frozen branches are easier to cut, and the risk of wood galling is minimized.

Particular attention should be paid to pruning old trees., because they, just like the elderly, need careful and delicate care:

such work is performed in early spring, the field of how the plant turns 12-15 years old;
pruning is usually stretched for 3-4 years so that the tree can gradually recover;
to improve fruiting, every year remove all dry and diseased shoots that unnecessarily thicken the crown of the tree and prevent the formation of new branches;
throughout the entire rejuvenating period, all excess frame branches are gradually removed, whose number on average should not exceed 8-10 pieces. When performing such work, the branches are filed on both sides in order to avoid unexpected breakage and make the cut point smoother and even.

Winter is the time to prune tree branches:

How to care for a tree after?

In order for the plum to endure the trimming procedure as easily as possible, first you need to learn how to make the right cuts, which should be performed at an angle equal to 45 degrees, and the last kidney should be at a distance of 5-10 centimeters.

All such work must be carried out only using sharp and disinfected garden tools, which include a knife, saw and lopper.

In order for the wounds on the tree to heal faster and not be subjected to various diseases , they are initially cleaned sharp knife and process blue vitriol. Then smeared with garden pitch, oil paint or any other regenerating means.

In order for the tree to be able to recover faster after spring pruning, it must be fed with phosphorus, potash or nitrogen fertilizers.

Plum pruning is enough difficult process only in the early stages while the crown is forming. At a later date, all work is reduced to the regular removal of old, damaged or incorrectly growing branches.

Regular pruning of plums is carried out for different purposes and different ways. All of them are aimed at improving the quality and quantity of fruits. Some gardeners prefer not to hold such events, but this has a detrimental effect on the trees. Therefore, be sure to familiarize yourself with the rules for pruning plums in the spring for beginners. It is important to know about, about the formation of the crown, for this you can consider the schemes in detail with detailed description, Photo and video.

If you do not create proper care, then a few years after planting, the branches of the plum crown grow strongly. The branches of the plant are prone to strong thickening. Because of this, they decrease taste qualities and crop volume. Frost resistance also falls, there is a risk of getting sick and being invaded by pests. Therefore, you need to learn in advance how to properly cut the plum.

Why prune plum trees

Branches at the bottom of the tree grow easily and quickly, and new shoots bring tangible benefits. With their help, the fruit plant receives additional nutrients. But this does not affect the yield in the best way. If you want to collect more tasty fruits, you will have to remove extra branches of the tree. Proper pruning of plums helps the development of the crop, enriching it with nutrients. Therefore, the cutting of the plant is carried out annually.

Since the plum is prone to strong growth, the number of branches, their length and even the angle between them and the trunk are carefully controlled and regulated. It's not just that growth affects the taste and usefulness of the fruit. The tree thickens and dies, wasting a large number of energy to grow new branches.

Types of pruning and their features

For a rich, tasty and useful harvest take into account all the nuances of the correct spring pruning of branches. Beginning gardeners need to know:

what types of branches and shoots exist;
desirable terms, varieties and features of haircuts;
varieties, their differences in appearance: crown, type of crop development, degree of growth and growth dynamics of new branches.

Every summer resident, in addition to traditional vegetables and ornamental plants, several fruit trees grow on the plot ...

Therefore, the plum is cut for different purposes:

Formative. With the help of such a haircut, the crown of the tree is formed.
Sanitary. Cut off branches infected with rot or scab, frozen. Cut branches are immediately burned to prevent infection of healthy fruit trees on the site.
Anti-aging. To rejuvenate the old plum, that is, to restore the fruiting of old plants, dry, broken branches are cut off, pulling nutrients, which will then go to the fruits.
Thinning. Cut off the branches growing inward, preventing sunlight, full ventilation. Under such conditions, the bark dries faster and does not overgrow with moss.

There are three types of pruning techniques:

"On the ring." The branches are cut in the place where the influx of the bark is visible.
"On the kidney." This method helps to shorten the shoot and give the desired direction of growth. A healthy bud is chosen, and then a branch is cut in a certain position.

Important!

Remove the branch so that you get a cut at an angle of 45 degrees. The top edge of the pruned branch is in line with top kidneys.

"Transfer to side escape". Using this method, they change the direction of growth and weed out barren branches. Choose a healthy lateral shoot and cut it off above the influx of the bark by 2-3 mm.

Spring pruning dates

Plum pruning in spring brings many benefits to proper growth and development of tree branches. It is carried out in several stages, requiring a lot of time and effort. Deadlines vary by region climatic conditions. If in the Moscow region and in middle lane frosts leave earlier, then they don’t drag out with a haircut. But in Siberia such work is done later, because the Siberian winters are too long and harsh. Therefore, when it is better to cut the plum, you need to decide for yourself. Approximate time - the last weeks of March and the first weeks of April.

The spring pruning scheme is not so complicated. First stage carried out when the frost ends, but the sap flow does not yet occur. Gardeners make a thinning haircut. There are no leaves at this time yet, so they do not interfere with cutting branches.

Before the plant begins to bear fruit, pruning of annual shoots is carried out. Cut very carefully to reduce the risk of damage. After this, the places where the branches are cut are lubricated with a healing agent.

Can plum blossoms be trimmed?

Usually fruit trees do not need a haircut during flowering. If the trunk is strong, not susceptible to diseases and pests, then in the period from the end of May to the middle of June, rejuvenating pruning can be carried out at the time when flowering begins.

Attention!

Strong, healthy trees normally tolerate this haircut even after the completion of the juice circulation. But slightly deformed or weakened is better not to touch.

Schemes and options for crown formation

To form a crown accurately, you need to imagine how it should look at the finish line. Plants, if it is not a columnar variety, look the same: conductor, 4-6 skeletal branches, each occupying its own tiers. The lower branches are the largest in diameter, and the upper branches are the smallest. The branches form an obtuse angle with the trunk, and the shoots grow in the direction from the trunk. The crown is thinned, not too dense. After the appearance is formed in the imagination, you can get down to business.

Forming a plum in the form of a bowl

The formation of a bowl-shaped tree takes several years. The bowl-shaped crown is empty inside, so the central conductor is cut out almost completely. Leave 4 skeletal branches at a height of half a meter above the ground. The branches are directed so that they form an angle with the trunk of 60-90 degrees.

For the next season, the main branches are shortened and form a division into 2 knots. They are shortened again a year later and divided. It turns out a cup-shaped crown, which is empty inside, and thicker from the center. There are 15-20 skeletal branches in total.

Tiered plum pruning

A sparse-tiered form is achieved within 5 years. Leave 6-7 of the largest branches, forming an angle of 50-60 degrees with the conductor. Correct Angle done by tying with a rope. Ideally, the main and skeletal branches grow in different directions from the conductor at a distance of 15-25 cm.

As a result, 2-3 branches are located at the lower level, and one of them is slightly higher than the others. The second tier includes two branches from opposite sides at different heights.

Pruning Pyramid Plum

The formation of a plum crown in the form of a pyramid requires several years of correct pruning.

First year. Start work in early spring. The conductor is shortened so that it is one and a half meters from the ground surface. Lateral branches growing at a distance of half a meter above the soil are removed "on the ring". The rest of the shoots are cut to half the length.

Attention!

In summer, the conductor is not removed. New shoots are shortened to 15-20 cm by buds that are directed towards the ground. Branches of the second order are cut to 15 cm.

Second and next years. The conductor is cut by about 2/3 of the length increased over the year. When the tree reaches a height of three meters, the conductor is reduced by 3-5 cm annually in order to preserve it.

In summer, on the branches on the sides of the trunk, shoots are cut into 6-8 leaves. Branches of the second order are shortened to 5-6 leaves. Strong branches at the top are removed.

Pruning a tall plum

An annual fruit plant is trimmed in early summer. The conductor is shortened so that a little less than two meters remain above the ground. The biennial tree is pruned in late spring. Branching shoots near the trunk are removed, leaving about 20-30 cm. It may seem that this is too strong a haircut, but young plant easier to tolerate this pruning. A three-year-old plum is cut again in May. Shoots growing as continuations of skeletal branches or a conductor are shortened to 25-35 cm, and the remaining growth is up to 15-20 cm. Trees that are more than three years old are thinned and sanitary cut so that the plant does not grow and is not infected by pests.

Bush pruning

In terms of methods for removing branches, it is very similar to the method of pruning a tall plum. The only difference is the pruning of the conductor in the first year of the plant's life. In order to form a plant in the form of a shrub, the guide is shortened not to 2 m, but to 1 m. To make the plum look like a medium-sized shrub, it is shortened to 1.5 m. The cutting technology in the following years exactly repeats the cutting of a tall tree.

How to cut tops

Tops are shoots that grow vertically from skeletal branches. They develop from dormant buds or after the branches have been damaged. Can provoke their growth abundant watering and too much nitrogen fertilizer. Tops have weak buds, but very large and dense foliage. They take a lot of nutrients from the tree, although they do not bear fruit.

Be sure to remove those tops that grow towards the conductor or develop on the trunk. Lignified shoots are cut into a ring in summer months, and the young are cut off by hand.

Plum formation by age

The plant grows throughout its life large quantity shoots, some of which break very quickly, obscure the crown and bear fruit poorly. Pruning plum seedlings is very useful for trees, so it is better to carry out all activities correctly, following the instructions. It is easier for specialists to form plants in the form of a dwarf pyramid. On the example of such a tree, you can consider all the stages of cutting.

Trimming an annual tree

Pruning a young plum brings many benefits. root system supplies the cut branches with nutrients for development. If you do not take into account this haircut, then the shoots will stop growing rapidly. The gardener will have to take additional measures to restore the growth of branches.

Attention!

In the first season, the foundation for development is laid, so care should not be neglected.

In the first year, the plum is cut to a minimum. Remove branches rubbing against each other, growing inward, obstructing access sunlight and air.

In those varieties that bear fruit on one-year-old wood, only branches longer than half a meter are cut to prevent breaks or sharp branches. Branches are shortened to a minimum length to avoid the formation of new branches that thicken the crown. If the shoots are severely frozen, then they are cut off along with the damaged part.

Pruning a biennial tree

Two-year-old trees are pruned in early spring. 1/2 of the skeletal branches are cut off where the kidney turns to the outside. You can shorten the branches by 1/3. The trunk is cleared of branches growing on the sides about half a meter from the ground. The conductor is cut off depending on what shape it needs to be given, but always on a healthy strong kidney.

Pruning an old plum

Begin to cut the old plum in the spring. First cut off the skeletal branches. All wounded places are smeared with garden pitch. Large, powerful branches begin to cut from below, and then remove the remaining upper part. New shoots develop at the cut points, which must be cut in July, leaving a few of the strongest.

It makes sense to prune an old tree only when it has a strong, undamaged trunk. It is better to divide the shearing process over several years, because a strong pruning at one time for fruit plant great stress. And for an old tree, it can be deadly.

The shoots of some young plum trees can grow up to 2 meters in length during the season, while others, on the contrary, barely stretch 20 cm. It is worth noting that in this case, the side branch can overtake the central one at times and at the same time grow more slowly than nearby branches.

In addition, plum especially in young age, can branch strongly. From almost all lateral buds, long shoots appear. There are varieties that shoot long shoots from the top. Consequently, the crowns of plum trees can vary considerably, ranging from shaggy to compact. So that the plum has a nice and comfortable shape crowns, milestone its formation is considered forming pruning.

It is more correct to start it immediately after planting the tree in a permanent place.

During the formation of the crown, it is important to ensure that the leading position remains with the central conductor, while the main branches must grow in balance.

There should be no thickening in the crowns, but bare branches are not preferred.

The optimal shape of the crown of a plum tree is considered to be sparse-tiered. The stem should not be higher than 30-40 cm. At the bottom, no more than 3 branches should be left, the 2nd tier should consist of 2-3 branches, further tiers should have 1 branch each. To prevent the tree from breaking, it is worth leaving as the main branches those branches that extend from the tree trunk at an angle not exceeding 40 degrees. It is important to leave a distance of at least 60 cm between the tiers, a distance of 15 cm should be observed between the branches, while it is more correct to place single branches at a distance of 30-40 cm.

In order to completely cover the main branches with fouling, it is important to ensure that there are no bare areas. For these purposes, a differentiated shortening system is used. Those trees that have medium and strong budding, annual branches should be cut to ¼ of their length. If the wakefulness is low, then by 1/3, those branches that have very weak wakefulness must be cut by ½.

Do not forget that it is more correct not to shorten those branches that are capable of branching strongly. Here you can apply the method of thinning branches or.

It is also important to say that the growth and fruiting of this tree have their own characteristics. The first is the precocity of the kidneys. Over the summer, 2 waves of growth are no exception. The second is that the buds of a plum tree are simple, so either shoots or flowers can grow from them. In the axils of the leaves, the buds are placed in groups of 2-3 or singly. The first option assumes the presence of 1 growth and 1-2 - flower buds.

At the bottom of strong and long shoots, there are mainly single growth buds, in the middle of the branch there are often group buds. In those places where there were single buds, scars will remain after fruiting, and the branch will become bare. In these places, the growth of shoots is possible.

Those places where there were group buds will bear fruit and short branches, similar to bouquet twigs.

If it is weak, the lateral buds will always be single flower and after fruiting they will certainly be bare. As for spurs and bouquet twigs, then proper care behind them will allow harvesting up to 5 years in a row, but bad care and negatively affecting conditions in 1-2 years will lead to the death of these branches.

So, as it became clear, the formation of a plum crown is enough laborious process. We will give advice on pruning the crown according to the years of growth of the tree.

Pruning in the first year

When planting a seedling, it is not necessary to cut it. Correct in the spring plant a seedling that has side shoots, tie it to a support and postpone the first pruning until next spring. The initial pruning should be done in March, because it is during this period that the buds awaken. As soon as the buds begin to wake up, you need to clear the stem from the side branches, the height of the cleaned trunk should be 45-50 cm from the ground. The rest of the branches will serve as the skeleton of the tree, they only need to be cut in half. It is more correct to cut the central conductor of a plum tree into a good bud, the height can reach 1.5 m above the soil.

We will leave our tree until July.

Produced at the end of July summer pruning tree of the first year of growth. During this period, it is necessary to cut off all branches that grow from the trunk, leaving them no more than 20 cm long. As for the side shoots that have grown on premature branches, you need to cut up to 15 cm on a bud looking down. It is not recommended to touch the center conductor.

Plum pruning in the second year

In the second year of growth, pruning is also very important for correct formation plum crowns. In March, as soon as the kidneys begin to awaken, it is necessary to cut the central conductor by about 2/3. It is more correct to cut on the kidney, which is located on the opposite side of last year's pruning. Such a maneuver would in the best possible way keep the straight growth of the conductor.

The next summer pruning in the second year of growth is in July. During this period, the growths of the continuation of the branches are pruned, their length after pruning should not be more than 20 cm. In addition, up to 15 cm, it is worth pruning the side shoots, it is more correct to focus on the bud located down. Using thick twine, you need to bend strong branches and attach them to the trunk.

Already for 3 and subsequent years, plum pruning becomes many times easier. Cut the center conductor in a zigzag pattern until it is 2.5 meters high. After reaching this height, it is worth stopping further growth. This can be done thanks to the annual pruning of new growth and broken, intersecting side branches. This way you will form the height of the plum.

In July, you need to cut off the side shoots, leaving them no more than 20 cm long, it is also worth cutting off the crossing branches. At this stage of growth, it is worth taking care of the formation of the top of the plum. So, without regret, you need to completely cut off all the shoots that grow in the wrong direction.

These steps will help to make a pyramid-shaped plum crown with a wide and massive base.

You can see another way to form a crown in the video.

Slender plum is afraid of competitors

Columnar plums do not need to be shaped. In the spring, only competing shoots are removed, which will rub against each other in the wind and thicken the crown.

It is best to cut them with a transfer to the outer branch. All branches growing inward, broken and diseased knots are cut out. With a healthy apical bud, only one shoot of the continuation of the conductor develops each year. Sometimes 2-3 strong continuation shoots appear in the crown. To avoid competition for nutrients, you need to leave only the strongest, removing the second one on the ring. Please note that the plum is characterized by protracted growth, therefore, in order to stimulate the ripening of the apical bud, in mid-August, you need to cut 2/3 leaf blade two pairs of upper leaves.

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