What is the J profile for siding used for? Finishing plank and other siding components Using siding of different textures

Are you planning to renovate or build new house and think what to do exterior finish? Turn your attention to vinyl siding - a very interesting and popular facade design option. The material is good for expensive country cottage, and for simple country house. However, siding panels alone are not enough for finishing - you will also need other details, which are called additional elements. And today one of these elements will be considered - the finishing bar for siding.

To begin with, let's get acquainted with the appearance and functions performed by the finishing strip and other additional siding elements.

Table. finish plank and other finishing touches vinyl siding ohm.

Important! Corner external siding strips can be used not only at the corners of the house, but also at the junction of wall and window openings.

Basic rules for the transportation and storage of the finishing strip and other additional elements

Durable and attractive appearance finishing from siding directly depends on the quality and condition of the panels and additional elements. To keep them until the start of installation in the form in which they came from production, compliance with the rules of transportation and storage will help you. Therefore, let's get to know them. To begin with, let's consider the main provisions that must be observed when transporting siding panels, finishing strips and all additional elements.

Similar requirements apply to the place of storage of the finishing strip and other details of the siding finish.

Important! Separately, it should be said that when carrying and working with finishing panels in conditions low temperatures you need to be careful - vinyl becomes more fragile and brittle, so the risk of damaging the trim elements increases significantly.

Tools needed to work with a siding finisher

Before proceeding with the installation of siding and finishing strips, it is necessary to prepare not only materials, but also tools for working with them. All of them are shown in the table below.

Table. Tools needed to work with siding panels and finish strips.

Important! Fulfilling construction works don't forget the funds personal protection- goggles and gloves. Be sure to use them when you cut metal and drill walls when installing siding.

Video - Installation of the siding finishing strip

One of the most popular options for finishing the facade today is siding. The quality and durability of such a finish is ensured not only by the use good stuff, but also the presence of a strong and reliable frame. Do you want to receive basic knowledge about how to make a crate for siding with your own hands? Then study.

Installing a finish strip for siding under the cornice - step by step instructions

Let's describe the process of installing a finishing strip for siding in the form of a step-by-step instruction.

Step 1. Prepare the walls of the house for the installation of battens and siding - get rid of old paint and plaster, remove all protruding elements.

Step 2 Form on the surface of the walls an even and strong crate of wooden beam or metal profile.

Step 3 Insulate the walls of the house mineral wool. Lay it between the elements of the crate and secure with dish-shaped dowels. Stretch a vapor and windproof film on top of the insulation.

Step 4 Start the siding installation process itself - install the starting, corner and H-shaped strips, start laying the panels themselves between them.

Step 5 Proceed with the installation of the finishing strip after installing the penultimate panel. Determine how many segments of this additional element you will need and what should be their length. Make a cut with a hacksaw with fine teeth.

Step 6 Climb under the eaves along with one of the trim strips and set it there so that the surface with the mounting holes is facing down, the lock for the siding panel is up.

Important! For your own safety and convenience, install the siding finisher on a stepladder, or even better, on scaffolding.

Step 7 Secure the finish bar in place with self-tapping screws or nails. Fasteners must have anti-corrosion coating or be made from appropriate materials. Wrap and hammer screws and nails, respectively, in the middle of the holes made on the finish bar. They are necessary to compensate for the longitudinal expansion and contraction of the additional element when the temperature changes. In this case, the interval between fasteners should be from 3 to 5 such holes.

Important! It is not necessary to wrap the screws to the end - leave a gap of about 1 mm between the head of the screw and the surface of the finishing strip. It can be sustained by placing a coin of 5 or 10 kopecks.

Step 8 Measure the distance from the penultimate siding panel to the top edge of the finish strip. Subtract 3 mm from the resulting figure.

Step 9 Based on the measurements from the previous operation, measure and cut the siding panel to the appropriate height. Then, in its upper part, make rectangular holes with perforating pliers. The interval between them should be 10 cm.

Step 10 Climb under the eaves and insert the bottom of the last siding panel into lock element the previous one. Then carefully slide the top edge of the panel (the one you made the holes into earlier) into the fixing part of the finish strip. Check if the contact between them is reliable.

After completing all the operations indicated above, carry out the laying and edging of the spotlights, which are necessary for finishing the inside of the cornice hanging over the wall.

Following the same principle as outlined earlier, install the finishing strip when laying the siding vertically. Only in this case, install the additional element together with the corner profile, while their mounting holes must match.

Using the instructions above, you will successfully install the finish bar and end up with a beautiful and durable finish for your facade.

In this article, we will analyze the main types of profiles for the installation of siding, which are among the main shaped products.

Therefore the review profile for lathing under the siding, and we will place the actual installation of the frame separate article.

For the installation and framing of house elements, the following types of profiles for outdoor siding are used:

• Start profile;
• H-profile;
• Finish profile;
• Near window profile;
• Flexible J-profile;
• J profile.

When starting the installation, the performer must take care of the availability of not only the main tool, but also additional and draft materials. The profile for fastening the siding comes in two versions - metal (zinc) and vinyl. Let's take a closer look at each of these types.

The sizes and types of profiles for siding are different for each manufacturer. Therefore, having decided on the brand of material, best solution will refer to the official website and clarify all the necessary information.

Important! Profiles for basement siding differ from profiles for vinyl siding, both in size and in the structure itself, due to the fact that plinth panels have more weight and load on the frame.

The first plank of vinyl siding is always attached to the starting profile, which is set according to vertical and horizontal markings.
The fastening of the initial profile should take place in full force, and the panels themselves should not be twisted.

The bottom profile for basement siding is made exclusively of zinc, when it is plastic for vinyl.
Colour start profile does not matter when mounting the facade, since the bar itself is hidden behind the first panel. Often it has the color "Plombir". The standard bar length is 3050 mm.

Interesting! Installation of metal siding, unlike plastic, starts from the top down, and not from the bottom up.

The most popular profile for finishing the facade of a private house with vinyl siding. The use of the j profile for siding occurs everywhere, however, its main purpose is to connect panels in hard-to-reach places and in internal corners.

The G profile can also be used as a start and finish plank.

Reasonable use of the ji profile in facade works allows you to make the lining more accurate.

When framing windows, a special window profile is used, the dimensions of which are: 200 * 3050 mm.

Advice! The installers of the Nesmetnoye.ru portal recommend using metal profiles for siding when finishing windows. Ordering them at the last stage. By re-measuring all the values, you can order any size of the window trim with rolling.

n profile for siding

The main purpose of the h profile for siding is to connect the panels to each other. This element allows you to give an aesthetic appearance to the entire facade. Although some installers use "butt" technology, where you can do without a connecting profile.

It is the final bar and is attached to the very top of the wall. In some cases, when soffit hemming is used with perforated siding, this plank is replaced by molding.

The edging profile can be replaced with a regular J-trim profile, but at the same time ensure additional reinforcement.

In conclusion, I would like to wish you good luck in decorating your facade, and remind you that the correct calculation of the main material and profile for vinyl siding is the key to timely installation, saving nerves and money.

Siding is one of the most popular, modern and universal material for finishing external walls buildings for various purposes. Residential buildings, industrial buildings, warehouses and much more get off with siding. However, in order to install the siding panels correctly, as well as to make the whole building look beautiful, harmonious and complete, it is necessary to purchase various components and additional elements. For example, for the design of window openings and doors (and for a number of other works), a J-profile for siding is required.

There are a lot of components that are used when installing siding panels. Each of the elements has its own purpose, a certain appearance and a specific form. J-profile is also required part, which is used for several purposes. This may be the closing of a number of siding panels on the side, the design of door / window openings, and so on. For example, a J-profile can be reinforced along the edge of the facade of the house, and siding panels are inserted into its “heel” (special groove). In general, it is used where the siding line ends, and is needed so that the sheathing gets a finished and neat look.

On a note! This element got its name due to its shape, reminiscent of latin letter J.

J-profile can be called universal - due to the peculiarities of its structure, it can often replace other elements necessary for the installation of siding panels. This is one of its main advantages. At the same time, the profile is quite cheap.

What can J-profile be used for

Attention! It is not necessary to replace the starting element with a J-profile, on which the entire row "sits" during the cladding of the house. The fact is that due to the peculiarities of the shape, water will accumulate in such a profile, and another reason is its obvious decorative effect. At strong wind J-profile will not hold the main finishing material, which can come off.

It is also not advised to use two interconnected J-profiles instead of one H-element. The fact is that water, dirt, dust will constantly accumulate between the joints, because of which the element will look untidy and spoil the appearance of the house.

Video - Installation of siding elements

Types of J-profile

J-profile is of several types. And depending on the specific case, a certain type of component will be used.

Table. Main typesJ-profile.

How much to buy

In order not to overpay extra money and not to purchase excess material, before starting the installation of siding, you should make accurate calculations of the number of each element, including the J-profile. It is easy to calculate it: if you plan to use it only for decorating window openings, then calculate the perimeter of each window and each door, sum up all the resulting numbers and take as many meters of the profile to close all the perimeters. The number of parts is easy to calculate by dividing the final figure by the length of one profile.

Attention! It is imperative that the pieces of the profile at the same length (for example, one edge of the window) do not fit together - it will look ugly. You need solid boards.

If a soffit will be installed, then after calculating the sum of the perimeters, the sum of the lateral lengths of the soffit is added to the resulting figure.

If you plan to use the J-profile also on end parts houses and gables of the roof, then they additionally measure the lengths of both sides of the gable, as well as the height of the wall to the roof from each of the corners. At one corner of the house, instead of one special corner profile, two J-profiles are used. That is, as a result, a double number of J profiles go to the ends of the house.

J-profile is attached to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws. At the same time, for the installation of 100 m 2 of siding panels, a lot of them are consumed - about 1600 pieces. The same fasteners are used for fastening the J-profile. In this case, nails should be purchased with a hat of about 8 mm and a length of at least 40 mm, and self-tapping screws - at least 25 cm long and a hat diameter of 8 mm.

Installing a J-profile around the perimeter of a window

How is the J-profile installed around the perimeter of a window or door? Consider the work done on the example of a window.

Step 1. According to the size of the window opening, the J-profile is cut into the required segments. Each window is measured individually. For trimming the corners, in order to fit them to each other, they must make an allowance - thus, the size of each part is increased by 15 cm.

Step 2 At an angle of 45 degrees, corner joints are cut on each segment of the J-profile.

Step 3 In the upper element, "tongues" 2 cm long are made in order to protect the inside of the cladding from the negative effects of the environment.

Step 4 Mounting the J-profile on the window starts from the bottom. Install the first part along the lower border of the window, securing it with self-tapping screws.

Step 5 Then mount side segments J-profile.

Step 6 Install the upper element of the J-profile of the window opening.

Step 7"Tongues" are inserted into the side sections of the J-profile.

"Tongue" inserted into the side section of the J-profile

Attention! The fastening of each element is carried out necessarily in the center of special holes for fasteners. The correctness of fastening is checked by moving the elements along its axis.

Mounting the J-profile on the gables

Consider how this element will be mounted on a gable roof. Gable roof - this is the same gable roof that is familiar to us. In houses with such roofs, the walls often smoothly turn into gable walls. Therefore, the pediment of such a structure is often called the gable.

Usually, installing a profile in this case is not difficult, but in in general terms the process of its installation is worth describing. Special difficulty here it causes a junction of two profile parts at the place of the roof ridge - the angle here will not necessarily be equal to 45 degrees. On the contrary, it is more likely to be stupid.

In order not to make a mistake when cutting the J-profile, a joint template is prepared from two unnecessary profile cuts. One of them is applied in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof ridge, and then a second piece is placed close to the roof canopy. On the first segment of the J-profile, mark the roof slope line with a marker. The template is cut as indicated in the diagram.

Next, according to the prepared pattern, a J-profile segment is measured, which will then be applied on the left side of the roof. The template is laid at an angle of 90 degrees front side up to the segment of the J-element and make a mark, then cut off the excess completely along the drawn line.

Turning the homemade template "face" down, mark the second segment of the J-element. After trimming, it will install with right side roofs.

Attention! In the second case, a nail strip is left at the profile when trimming.

The resulting segments of the profiles are joined and fixed on the wall with self-tapping screws, the first of which is screwed into top point topmost mounting hole. Other self-tapping screws are screwed in the central part of the nail socket. The step between the fasteners is about 25-30 cm.

Here the profile is attached quite simply. To do this, under the cornice, which will be closed with a soffit, a support is nailed along the wall in the form wooden beam- it is on it that the profile will be mounted. If suddenly there is no such support initially, it must be installed additionally.

Opposite the first J-profile, a second one is attached. The resulting distance between them is measured, subtracted from it by 1.2 cm and cut out exactly this width of the soffit details, which are then inserted between two J-profiles. At the same time, the soffit is fixed in the perforated holes.

The construction of a private house implies not only its interior decoration, but also the sheathing of the outer part, that is, the facade. The most popular solution today is siding, that is, panels made of different materials with lock and hem. It has a number of valuable advantages, excellent operational characteristics and attractive appearance. Read more details.

A few words about the color of the J-profile. As a rule, the element is available in the same color variations as the siding itself, so picking up this element by shades is usually obtained without any problems. But in some cases, when finishing a house, a profile can be used differently, contrasting color. Despite the fact that designers often use this technique and consider it one of good ways decorating the building, nevertheless, experimenting with colors should be done carefully. It is important to remember that such inserts do not always look harmonious.

You also need to remember that dark elements will get very hot in the sun, so the siding and profile of such shades should not be used on sunny side even in small quantities. Due to impact sunlight they can bend and lose their appearance (we are talking about plastic parts).

Advice! In order for the profiles used to design the roof gables to heat up less, during their installation, you can make a small indent from the junction angle of the roof and wall - 2.5 cm is enough.

Sometimes profiles on the gables of the roof may not be installed at all, motivating such a decision by the fact that this allows you to save some money, and the decor elements are still not visible. But still, you should not neglect the use of the J-profile in this place: the fact is that during heavy rain moisture through the remaining gaps will penetrate between the wall of the house and the siding, as a result, the lining of the building will not be able to perform a protective function - the tree will still be excessively moistened and lose its qualities.

H-profiles are used for joining two ordinary panels. The H-profile, like the corner profile, has two nail strips. It refers to vertical elements siding, so when installing it, you must follow the rules for installing vertical profiles. This means that the first fastener (nails or self-tapping screws) is installed in the upper nail slots with the fastener offset to the upper edge of the hole. The H-profile will hang on this fastener. The remaining fastenings are carried out in increments of 20-40 cm along the centers of the holes.

The marking and installation of the H-profile are carried out similarly to the marking and installation of corners (Fig. 28).

The profile length is increased by overlapping. Docking structurally resembles the joining of two corner profiles - the upper profile overlaps the lower one.

The placement of the H-profile on the wall should be thought out in advance so that the vertical section of ordinary panels, visually emphasized by the H-profile, organically fits into the overall picture of the siding sheathing. Usually, H-profiles are placed on the wall symmetrically to the center line of the wall, or window and door niches. Since the installation site of the H-profile is almost always known in advance, two vertical gratings are installed under it, or in this place the direction of the vertical gratings is changed to horizontal. Changing the installation direction of the crate to horizontal is more correct constructive solution, because it allows you not to bother with the exact adjustment of the installation of vertical gratings.

Rice. 28. Installation of H-profiles: 1 - vertical crate; 2 - H-profile; 3 - horizontal crate; 4 - starting profile

H-profiles, like corner profiles, are installed on the wall before installation starting bars or simultaneously with them. It is advisable to use H-profiles on long blank walls. If you think carefully about the installation location of the profiles, you can cut ordinary siding with almost no waste; the cut piece is installed in another place. H-profiles are also installed at the junction of the house with any extension (Fig. 29), which has vertical seasonal fluctuations (drawdowns) that are different from the house. The use of H-profiles on relatively short walls belonging to the same building is most often not justified, since in these cases a lot of panels go to waste when cutting ordinary siding.

Rice. 29. An example of placing H-profiles on facades

Installation of the finishing profile and molding Docke

The finishing profile is installed on the wall directly under the roof eaves or soffit, or in the place where the siding is changed from horizontal to vertical. For convenience, the finishing profile is often installed simultaneously with the installation of ordinary siding, since it is located quite high on the wall and it makes no sense to climb stairs or build scaffolding to install this element alone. It is much easier to install it when the installation of ordinary siding approaches the location of the finishing profile.

The finishing profile is also used above (upside down) and below protruding from the wall window openings. However, in any case, whether when installing all the additional elements of the siding sheathing, or when installing ordinary siding, the finishing profile must be installed before the adjoining panel of ordinary siding.

When installing the finishing profile, long before the installation of ordinary siding, we do not know in advance where it will be cut ordinary panel siding, so you can install a finishing profile paired with a J-profile on the wall. Then, wherever ordinary siding is cut, it will engage with the first or second channel (Fig. 306 and ZOv). As an exception, it is allowed to replace the finishing profile with a J-profile, while the wooden lath leveling the height is inserted inside the J-profile. The rail must be fixed so that it does not interfere with the thermal expansion of the J-profile.

Rice. Fig. 30. Scheme of installation of the finishing profile and Docke molding: a - trimming the siding to the required height and making hooks on it; b - siding hook in the finishing profile; in - the same, in the J-profile; d - siding hook into the finishing profile, installed using a wooden lath leveling the height; e - siding hook into the Docke molding; 1 - wall cornice; 2 - trimmed siding panel with hooks; 3 - J-profile; 4 - finishing profile; 5 - molding Docke; 6 - wooden rail

In buildings whose cornices will subsequently be sheathed with vinyl soffits, it is more convenient to replace the finishing profile with a Docke molding, which alone replaces several profiles. The molding, unlike the finishing profile, is attached to the cornice, and not to the wall, so it can be moved away from the wall and fixed at any distance that provides a hook for ordinary siding. The molding can be attached both before and after the installation of the last siding panel. The unit for connecting ordinary panels with molding has two options: mounting on "hooks" is shown in fig. 30b, another solution will be described later.