How to unscrew the battery section without a key. How to disassemble a radiator: features of disassembling cast iron, aluminum and bimetallic batteries

The need to disassemble heating radiators arises in cases where they began to leak, one of the ribs cracked or burst. In old buildings, when there was no question of energy saving yet, radiators were installed in which there were more fins than required, so the extra fins must be removed.

Heating radiator device.

Before dismantling heating radiators, regardless of their type, you should make sure that no water is supplied to the pipes. It is advisable to work together.

If the heating system is mounted on polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes, the couplings are disassembled.

If the heating system is installed from steel pipes, you need to try to unwind the surges at the entrance and exit of the sections. If it doesn’t work out, as it often happens in apartments of an old building, the spurs need to be cut off with a grinder or autogenous.

It remains to remove the battery from the hooks with which it is attached to the wall, and put it on flat surface.

Disassembly of cast iron radiators

Dismantling cast-iron radiators sometimes becomes a very time-consuming process, but necessary.

Scheme of disassembling cast-iron heating radiators: a - capturing the threads of sections with nipples by 2-3 threads; b - turning the nipples and joining the sections; in - connection of the third section; g - grouping of two radiators; 1 - section; 2 - nipple; 3 - gasket; 4 - short radiator key; 5 - crowbar; 6 - a long radiator key.

A new or old radiator is placed on a level place. At least on one side, you need to remove the usual futors or deaf ones - plugs. On different sections of radiators, they can be left-handed or right-handed. Usually, cast iron fittings have a right-hand thread, plugs have a left-hand thread. If there are no disassembly skills, and there is a free section, it is better to find out what kind of thread this is and in which direction the key should be rotated before applying force. If the thread is left-handed, when disassembling cast-iron batteries, you need to rotate the key clockwise.

As with unscrewing any nuts, you first need to “break” the futors from their place, i.e. turn them a quarter of a turn on both sides of the battery. Then the futors are unscrewed so that a gap of several millimeters is formed between the sections. If you release the futorki more, the whole structure will begin to bend under its own weight and due to the applied efforts. In this case, the thread may jam. To prevent this from happening, an assistant must stand on the disassembled battery, which will prevent bending with its weight.

Usually, dismantling of old heating radiators is difficult because the fittings and sections are “boiled”. In order to disassemble such a battery, you will have to use an autogen or blowtorch. The junction is heated in a circular motion. As soon as it is warm enough, the futorki are twisted out. If it was not possible to unscrew the first time, the steps are repeated.

If there is not enough strength to disassemble the battery, you need to increase the length of the key. An ordinary pipe is used, which serves as a lever.

Similarly, built-in nipples for airing cast-iron radiators are unscrewed.

If it was not possible to disassemble the cast-iron battery using the considered methods, it remains to cut it with a grinder or autogenous or smash it in a supine position with a sledgehammer. You need to carefully break or cut one section. After this operation, the adhesion between the sections may loosen, the battery can be disassembled, the remaining sections can be saved.

The use of a “liquid key” or WD liquid does not give an effect, since in old cast-iron batteries the futors were sealed with linen and paint, and liquids would not get on the threads.

Disassembly of aluminum heating radiators

Scheme of aluminum heating radiators.

aluminum or bimetal radiator Heating systems are disassembled similarly to cast iron, but there are slight differences:

heatmonster.ru

How to disassemble a heating radiator on your own?

You will need:

• aluminum radiator
• Remove radiator
• Drain the water from the radiator
• Disassemble the radiator

Aluminum radiators immediately liked their appearance and ease of installation. Their high heat output allows you to heat an apartment or house immediately after turning on the boiler. But practice has shown that they quickly fail due to the oxidation of aluminum with water. But what if one section leaked in the middle of the heating season, and family budget not designed for urgent battery replacement? There is only one way out - to eliminate the leak.

Before removing the heating radiator, drain all water from the heating system. Then the radiator is unscrewed and water is poured out of it. It is recommended to rinse the radiator with warm water from the inside, lightly tapping each section with a rubber mallet. A lot of scale and rust will fly out. Then it is carefully reviewed. In places of leaks, swelling of the paint is visible. If you poke a nail in these places, you can find a hole.

It is worth mentioning that at home aluminum is difficult to weld, this can only be done by a specialist. Before you close the radiator, you should think about ways to fix the leak. Aluminum is welded with argon. Argon-arc welding is expensive, sometimes up to 300 rubles per 1 cm. Argon does not allow aluminum to burn, unlike conventional welding. It is easier to unscrew the damaged section and replace it with a new one. One section costs around 400 rubles. You will need new clamps and gaskets.

If the heating system is made of polypropylene, then you can not change the section to a new one, but simply remove it. Pipes are easy to build up using pieces of polypropylene pipe or a barrel. The question arises, how to disassemble the heating radiator on your own? The radiator is placed on a flat surface, preferably on the floor, and they begin to disassemble it. Sections can turn away with great difficulty. It is better if the assistant gets on the battery. When the desired section is unscrewed, we screw a new one in its place.

How to choose heating radiators. With a ceiling height of up to 2.7 meters, one section is taken for every 2 m2 plus 20-30% of the stock. So, for a room with an area of ​​16 m2, you need 8 sections plus 2 more sections, in total 10. And for a room with an area of ​​30 m2, you will need two radiators of 10 sections, a total of 20 (15 sections plus a margin for an equal account of 5 sections).

The service life of aluminum radiators is short, about 4-5 years. After fixing one leak, other sections may leak within a month. Before you change heating radiators, you need to decide whether to buy aluminum again or leave your choice on bimetallic ones. The second option will cost more, but will quickly pay for itself, the battery life is up to 20-25 years.

www.uznay-kak.ru

How to disassemble the radiator: preparing tools, disconnecting and disassembling the battery

Sometimes situations arise that require the immediate dismantling of the heating radiator. Of course, you can call professional plumbers to perform such an operation, but this will take time and financial costs. In this article, we will look at how to disassemble the battery yourself.

Do-it-yourself disassembly of a heating radiator

Step-by-step description of dismantling works

A few words about when you may need to disassemble the heating battery:

• In the case of replacing the old radiator with a new one that has better performance and better appearance.
• If you need to add additional sections for the battery.
• If it is necessary to replace a separate section or gasket that has leaked.

The instruction begins with the preparation of the necessary tools:

Step #1: Preparing the Tools

Photo of a nipple wrench

Sample gas key

Tip: taking into account the fact that it is very rarely needed on the farm, and its price is not the lowest, it is recommended not to buy a nipple wrench, but to rent it. This will save the family budget.

Step #2: Disconnecting the Battery

Before disassembling an aluminum or cast iron radiator, it must be disconnected from the heating system. For this in without fail it is necessary to turn off the heating and drain the water from the riser, otherwise you will simply flood the room and get burned.

Tip: it is recommended to cover the floor under the battery with film, rags, or at least newspapers before starting dismantling, in order to avoid getting any liquid residue on it, which may be in the circuit even after draining the riser.

1. Polypropylene pipes. In this case, the coupling connection, as a rule, is twisted with bare hands, without causing any difficulties.
2. Steel new. With some effort, you will most likely be able to spin the battery inlet and outlet horns with a gas wrench.

Disconnection of new steel pipes

1. Old steel or cast iron pipes. First, we try by removing the paint from the docking place with a blowtorch and a metal brush, we try to unwind the connection as described in the previous version. But in systems that have worked for a long time, most often this does not give a result, and then we simply cut off the drive with a “grinder” or autogenous.

Cutting old sgons using a "grinder"

After disconnecting the battery from the pipes, we remove it from the hooks and lay it on a flat plane.

Step 3: Radiator Disassembly

Battery section disconnect diagram

The battery can be cast iron, aluminum or bimetallic.

The most difficult option for parsing is the first of the listed ones, and we will start with it:

1. How to disassemble a cast iron radiator on their own:

• Carefully, we check the threading on the fittings or plugs, which can be either left or right.
• We insert the nipple wrench inside, we increase its torque with the help of a piece of pipe or a crowbar.
• We tear off the thread by scrolling the tool a quarter of a turn, first at the top, and then at the bottom.
• Then we also alternately continue to unscrew the nipples so that the radiator does not warp.
• The main problem with old batteries is that the tubes can stick in the process. years operation and do not give in to the key. In this case, the junction must be heated in a circular motion with a blowtorch, and then again try to unscrew the nipple. The procedure is repeated until the thread yields. If it still doesn’t work out, then you have to cut it with an autogenous.

Dismantled old cast-iron radiator

1. Let's find out how to disassemble a bimetallic or aluminum radiator? The procedure is almost the same as described above, but has several differences:

• A smaller nipple wrench is used.
• So much effort is not required when unscrewing the nipples.
• Plugs and futurok are marked with the direction of the thread in the form of the letters S and D, where the first indicates the left stroke, and the second - the right.
• The metal spacers between the sections are wiped, polished and stored until the next battery assembly.

Disassembly of the aluminum battery

After completing the described tasks, you can replace the leaking part, add a section, or even install a new radiator in place of the old one.

Conclusion

Dismantling the heating battery is quite doable on our own. The greatest difficulty can be the unwinding of old cast-iron models, in which the joints, as a rule, become attached over many years of service. Then you have to use a blowtorch and make more physical effort. With new aluminum and bimetallic radiators, there are no such problems, and they are easily dismantled.

Separation of a bimetallic battery into sections

The video in this article will introduce you to additional materials that are directly related to the topic outlined. Be careful and attentive, and you will succeed.

Page 2

Painting heating radiators performs not only an aesthetic function. Layer finishing materials, applied to a metal surface, protects it from corrosion, extending the life of the radiator.

In our article, we will tell you how to properly perform all the preparatory operations, as well as what you need to keep in mind when painting with your own hands.

Decorative coating protects the surface from corrosion

Why do you need battery coloring?

If standard cast-iron or steel radiators are installed in your house, then the layer of finishing materials applied to their surface must be periodically updated.

The need for such work is due to the following considerations:

Do not leave the radiator in this state!

• First, sooner or later the paint wears out and needs to be reapplied. At the same time, the finish makes it possible to partially compensate for the aesthetic shortcomings of radiators, which (for the most part, this is true for older models, but also modern designs not far from them) are by no means distinguished by their exquisite design.
• Secondly, painting the surface protects it from moisture and other factors, which leads to a decrease in the intensity of corrosion processes. And if this is less relevant for cast iron, then steel radiator with an unpainted surface rusts very quickly.

Where the paint has peeled off, the metal begins to rust.

• Thirdly, when using suitable compositions, the heat transfer of the battery, if reduced, is insignificant. That is why, by painting the radiators with a specialized pigment, we will not damage the microclimate in the room.

Note! But copper batteries do not cast color. On the one hand, polished copper already looks good enough, but on the other hand, it does not rust, therefore it does not require additional protection.

In addition, high heat dissipation copper pipes when painting will be reduced quite significantly.

As you can see, it is highly desirable to subject steel and cast iron products to such processing at least once every few years. With the right approach, this task will not take much time, so it is quite possible to cope on your own, without the involvement of third-party specialists.

Coloring technology

Paint selection

At industrial production battery surface treatment is carried out by applying powder pigments in a special chamber. This technology is very effective, since it ensures maximum adhesion of the paint layer to the base, but it is impossible to implement it on your own without the appropriate equipment.

That is why radiators are usually painted either with a brush or with a spray gun using special liquid formulations.

Alkyd specialized composition

To process such products, elastic heat-resistant pigments with good thermal conductivity are used:

Advice! To maximize the acceleration of the finishing process, you can take car enamel in an aerosol can.

The only downside to this solution is high price, but the expenses will be significant only if you have to paint several dozen radiators.

Paintable area calculator

Before buying a pigment, you need to decide on the amount of paint, which depends on the area of ​​​​the surface to be treated. The area of ​​heating radiators for painting is most conveniently determined using special programs: just enter the type of batteries and their number in the appropriate fields, and the algorithm will give us the required number.

Training

In order for the paint to lay flat and hold firmly, the surfaces must be carefully prepared.

Instructions for the implementation of preparatory activities will be as follows:

• All work is carried out with the batteries disconnected. It is pointless to apply paint on a working radiator: the high temperature of the base will not provide a normal drying mode, and the pigment will begin to peel off very quickly.

Pipes also need to be prepared

Advice! Ideally, the radiator should be removed and thoroughly tapped with a mallet. So we will facilitate the removal of old paint, and we will knock off internal deposits from the walls.

Then they can be poured out through the holes for connecting the heating pipe.

• Be sure to remove the old paint. To do this, we either use special washes, or we heat the surfaces with a building hair dryer and clean off the layer of paints and varnishes with a spatula.
• After removing the paint, sand the surfaces. We carry out roughing with the help of a grinder (a brushing nozzle is used), and then once again we pass along the planes with a metal brush.

Sanding the surface with a grinder

After that, degrease all surfaces. We should get a metal battery without traces of old pigment and rust - so we will paint it.

Coloring and drying

Painting cast iron radiators is done as follows:

We cover the walls and floor with paper, as shown in the photo.

• If a pigment is used in an aerosol can or an airbrush, then we paste old newspapers on the wall behind the radiator to prevent drops from falling on the finish. When painting with a brush, it is enough to cover the floor directly under the battery.

Advice! It is advisable to take at least two brushes: a wide one - for processing the main surfaces of the sections, and a narrow one - for painting hard-to-reach places between the ribs.

• The first layer is applied with a composition diluted approximately 1/4. This layer will act as a primer.
• We let the primer coat dry for 24 hours, after which we apply a second coat, now with paint of normal density. We carefully paint over all areas, trying not to leave empty spaces - this is where the battery will begin to rust in the first place.

Applying paint with a brush

• We dry the radiator again during the day. Only after the paint is completely polymerized, you can turn on the heating.

Conclusion

Painting radiators and heating pipes does not require us to have complex tools or specific skills. If you know simple rules(and for this it is enough to read the above recommendations and watch the video in this article), then the work will not take much time, and the result will be quite worthy.

Page 3

What is it - vacuum radiators? How are they arranged? What ensures their unsurpassed efficiency and economy, which is promised to a potential buyer by numerous sellers? And, most importantly, to what extent do the advertising statements of manufacturers and sellers correspond to reality? Let's figure it out.

Our hero.

What it is

Device

How is this heating device arranged? In the version designed for water heating systems, it is a sealed container complex shape, through which (through the lower manifold) a heating pipe with a coolant passes. The radiator is fully compatible with any of its types; connection is also quite standard.

The pressure inside the container, although far from the vacuum of space, is noticeably lower than atmospheric pressure. Part of the volume of the device is filled with its own volatile coolant, which does not come into contact with the external circuit in any way (according to the assurances of the sellers, it is some kind of lithium-bromide liquid, an exact description of the composition of which is not given).

However: some manufacturers mention the possibility of using ethanol (ethyl alcohol) as a working fluid.

Vacuum cooler device.

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of vacuum heating radiators, according to the assurances of all the same manufacturers and sellers, is reduced to the transfer of heat by a volatile coolant under rarefaction conditions:

• When heated to 35C, lithium bromide liquid boils and actively evaporates;
• Having a sufficiently high heat capacity, it transfers heat to the upper part of the heater, providing the fastest (in 1-2 minutes) and uniform heating;
• Further thanks to special properties liquid, it retains a gaseous state for a long time, which prevents the device from cooling down and saves thermal energy.

A special case: electric vacuum radiators differ from conventional ones designed for operation in water heating circuits by the presence of their own heating element in the lower manifold. Thanks to this feature, the heater is connected only to the outlet, which greatly simplifies installation.

The device is equipped with its own heating element.

Sample study

We will take as a sample the lineup quite specific company Energy Eco. Vacuum radiators produced by it are positioned as follows:

A simple calculation shows that one section is able to provide sufficient heat transfer to heat 4.5 m2 of a living space.

According to the assurances of the seller, this device is able to heat a two-room apartment.

Reference: according to Soviet SNiP, thermal power for calculating heating systems, it is taken equal to 100 watts per 1 m2. In modern energy-efficient homes, thanks to comprehensive measures to reduce heat leakage, it can be reduced to 60 watts / m2.

Thus, one section of the radiator should provide heat transfer of at least 4.5 * 60 = 270 watts.

In the description of the technical characteristics of heaters, the manufacturer puts all the dots over the "i":

Once again: 169 watts, and not 270 at all. As the notorious character of the unforgettable Mikhail Afanasyevich said: “Congratulations, citizen, you are lying.”

Focuses and their exposure

If we already remembered Bulgakov, it would be logical to remind the reader of one more quote: "We are interested in both tricks and their exposure."

• Quick access to the operating mode: heating of the room starts immediately after the heater reaches 35C. Holy truth - if the temperature in the room is below 35C. This is true for any two objects with different temperatures. Thermodynamics, you know.

At the boundary of media with different temperatures, there is always a transfer of thermal energy.

• Vacuum radiators do not suffer from air locks. This is so because there are no staples in the device where air can accumulate. But the circuit as a whole may well have them, which reduces this dubious advantage to nothing.
• These heaters do not suffer from slagging of pipes and corrosion. Excuse me, but where does slagging come from in an autonomous system with a limited amount of water? The argument about corrosion is also demagogy: oxygen, which causes rust, simply has nowhere to come from in a filled and closed system.
• Small amount of coolant. This parameter only affects the thermal inertia of the circuit: with a small amount of coolant, it heats up quickly and cools down quickly. When filling a water heating system, the volume of water in it is only of speculative interest.
• Durability. Excuse me, but as a device with a 1.5 mm wall of carbon steel can be more durable than a 2.5 mm wall pipe made of the same steel? Polypropylene and metal-plastic also seem to have a service life comparable to the duration of a human life ... In general, again demagogy.

The oldest cast iron radiators are over a century old, and their functionality is no different from newer appliances.

• Low hydraulic resistance. Fact: a vacuum radiator will create a slightly lower resistance to the flow of the coolant of the main circuit compared to cast iron or aluminum and will save on work circulation pump. Taking into account the fact that the price of the device is 3-4 times higher than that of a conventional aluminum radiator, the payback period for the difference in cost can be estimated at about 400 - 500 years: the difference in the power consumed by the pump will be calculated in hundredths of a percent.

Postulate: vacuum heaters are exceptionally economical. Savings compared to traditional radiators in different versions of advertising varies from 30 to ... 400%.

Dear reader, secondary education in the Soviet, and now - Russian system education is a must. School course Physics includes the study of the law of conservation of energy.

If we slightly clarify and paraphrase the wording of Sir Isaac Newton, in relation to our case, it will take the following form:

1. The final form of any transformation of energy is mechanical work(that is, the movement of mass against the vector of gravity) or heating of the medium.

Sir Isaac is saddened by the current level of education.

1. Since our heater does not raise anything anywhere, all the energy received by it is completely converted into heating.

We emphasize: this statement is true for any heating device, regardless of its design. The efficiency is always 100%: having taken away 500 watts of heat from the coolant, the battery will completely dissipate them in environment regardless of their design.

Sarcastic Notes

The author will allow himself a few more comments on the device and the advertised advantages of vacuum radiators. The principle of their operation is completely identical to the so-called heat pipe - a pipe with a volatile coolant.

Evaporating in the heated part of the sealed container and condensing at its colder end, it provides efficient heat transfer. The first heat pipes began to be used in the 18th century, at the same time as the first steam engines.

One of the problems with tubes is the return of coolant condensate to the heating zone. In a more primitive version, with a vacuum radiator as a tracing paper, the liquid flowed down by gravity - which is what we observe in the design under study. Patented in 1942 capillary tube capable of working in any position.

This design is over a century old.

A modified version of the invention is a capillary heat pipe.

By the way: the statement that the coolant retains its gaseous state after heating the radiator and continues to heat it is a first-class lie. It continuously condenses in the upper collector and flows down by gravity.

Ammonia, ethanol and ... water are used as a heat carrier in a heat pipe, which can evaporate at low temperatures under reduced pressure.

The only advantage of a heat pipe is its high thermal conductivity throughout its entire volume. No other magical properties she does not have.

Mounting

Is it difficult to install a vacuum heating radiator with your own hands, if you still liked the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthis device?

Installation instructions are absolutely standard.

1. The device is hung on brackets in horizontal position.
2. Pipes are supplied to it, corresponding to the nominal diameter of the threads and equipped with shut-off valves, chokes or a thermal head. Wiring diagram - bottom to bottom.

The device in the photo is equipped with a pair of chokes.

1. American women are used to connect the radiator to the valves.

Conclusion

We hope that our miniature critical review has helped the reader to recover from excessive trust in advertising. To learn more about what vacuum radiators are and how they work, the video in this article will allow. Good luck!

o-trubah.ru

Aluminum radiators

The progress of heating systems has affected not only the heat carrier heating devices, but also the systems themselves, including radiators.

If until recently everyone had cast-iron batteries in their homes, now they are being successfully replaced with bimetallic or aluminum radiators.

Aluminum batteries - which are better?

In order to decide which aluminum batteries from a wide range of these products are better, you first need to understand their differences.

At the moment, radiators are produced according to two technologies, these are:

1. Extrusion. As a result of using this method, aluminum parts are extruded under high pressure, and the joints of individual components are glued together with a special composite adhesive.

2. Foundry. More traditional method, at which the radiator sections are cast into special forms, and the joints are connected by welding.

Of course, the casting method, and the order is more reliable compared to batteries manufactured by extrusion, if only because welding at the joints holds an order of magnitude better than glue.

On the other hand, radiators made by extrusion are much cheaper. In addition to this difference, radiators also differ in the integrity parameter.

Batteries can be sectional and consist of separate parts, the connection of which must be made by welding.

More reliable are solid radiator panels without mechanical joints. Wanting to get reliable aluminum radiators, it is better to opt for cast one-piece battery models.

Specifications of aluminum batteries

The great demand for aluminum radiators is determined by technical and physical characteristics, as well as the advantages of both the metal itself and the radiator as a whole.

1. Unlike most other metals, aluminum has excellent thermal conductivity and heat dissipation, respectively, the radiator heats up an order of magnitude faster and less coolant is spent.

This is very important for autonomous systems heating, as it can significantly reduce the cost of energy consumption for the heating boiler.

2. Aluminum is practically not subject to corrosion, especially if it is cleaned by anodizing. Such radiators are able to withstand very high pressure and not collapse for a long time.

As for the parameters and dimensions of the radiator, it directly depends on the chosen model and the number of sections.

On average, the distance between the upper and lower tubes, through which the coolant circulates, ranges from 200-800 mm.

How to disassemble an aluminum heating battery?

In some cases, it is necessary to disassemble the aluminum heating radiator, for example, in order to build up additional sections, to flush it, or to replace a failed battery cell.

Ideally, it is better to entrust the disassembly of the battery to a professional, but if you have to do it yourself, you need to prepare the appropriate tool.

In addition to the usual pliers, a hammer and other standard tools, you should purchase or borrow a nipple wrench. You can buy it in almost any store specializing in plumbing and everything connected with it.

The nipple wrench allows you to separate one section of the battery from another. In order for the battery sections to unscrew more easily, it is necessary to loosen the nipples alternately in the upper and lower tubes.

To begin with, loosen the top nut a few turns, then the bottom nut, and then return to the top nut again and so on alternately until they are completely unscrewed.

The boiler is working at full capacity, but the house keeps low temperature? Perhaps the problem is with heatsinks that can't handle the load. Achieve increased efficiency heating system you can, if you understand how to disassemble the cast-iron battery, transfer it or build it up to the existing additional sections. The process of building up a heat exchanger, in which a nipple for a cast-iron radiator is a connecting link, is quite simple, but at the same time it requires a number of requirements to be met.

Extension of radiators

Before you build up a heating radiator, it must be remembered that it is possible to carry out work of such a plan only at the end of the heating season. Since, in order to add new cast-iron batteries, as well as sections from any other material, it becomes necessary to dismantle and disassemble the entire thermal device. And if such activities are carried out in heating season, then the entire system will need to be blocked. And when you live in an apartment high-rise building, it is unlikely that the neighbors will be delighted with the prospect of being left without heating for an indefinite period.

Of course, in winter it is possible to transfer heating heat exchangers and build them up, provided that your circuit is equipped with bypass valves, through which the radiators are disconnected “painlessly” for a centralized heating main.

In the event that your batteries do not have bypasses, then, no matter how much you want, the process of building up or transferring a heater will have to be postponed until spring. However, this does not prevent us now from considering how to disassemble and build up a cast-iron heating battery, as well as a bimetallic one. To do this, stock up on the following tools:

• a special key for assembling and disassembling heat exchangers (in the absence of such, an adjustable right size);
• nipple for the radiator - here you need to select such adapters that fit strictly for the material and configuration of the thermal element;
• paronite gaskets, which are placed between the sections;
• side plugs with a set of gaskets;
• faucet for draining or draining water air masses from the system - at will.

Before you disassemble the cast-iron battery (you can find the video in our publication), do not forget that you need to block the flow of coolant into the system.

In the case when the radiators were already in use, then between its structural elements there is often an accumulation of rust or dirt, which will interfere with the full build-up of batteries.

So that the gasket completely fits the rim of the thermal element, it is necessary to get rid of all these growths. This can be done with sandpaper or a metal brush.

VIDEO: How to disassemble a heating radiator

Assembly preparation

Cleaning of heat exchangers is carried out at home. In order not to damage the coating of the bath, its bottom is covered with thick rags, and drainer is covered with a mesh device, which eliminates the possibility of voluminous lumps of dirt getting into sewer system and, consequently, contamination.

Cast iron batteries are completely disassembled, all covers are twisted, after which boiling water is poured into the open holes. Then the heater must be shaken well and drained of water with residual dirt. Then we pour water, but only this time we add a cleaning agent to it, which can be lye, sour-milk whey or vinegar. This time we do not drain the water, but close the sections with plugs and leave them to “sour” for at least one hour. After the specified time has elapsed, shake the radiator well, you can even tap it with a rubber mallet to remove the remnants of rust and plaque. After that, you can drain the solution along with the garbage.

It is necessary to flush the thermal element until the water drained from it is practically clean. In addition, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the batteries after cleaning agents, the remains of which can provoke further development rust.

Often, liquids for washing heat exchangers are used as a cleaning agent. Vehicle or compositions for cleaning sewer pipes.

Building process

We proceed to screwing the nipple on the left. First, it is recommended to wind it slightly, approximately one turn. Using the same principle, we wind the nipple transition element on the right side of the section.

When increasing the heat block, it is necessary to ensure that the sealing gasket is located exclusively in the middle of the nipple, and the battery section must fit snugly against it.

Further through special key we continue to screw the nipple into the heater section. As a rule, three or four turns are sufficient for the nipple adapter to ensure a reliable build-up of heaters. So, in turn, the section is tightened until it fits snugly against its “neighbor”.

The next step is to install a special side plug. It is also important to remember that such plugs must be equipped with paronite sealing gaskets. The plug is screwed on with a pipe wrench.

Installing additional taps and painting the radiator

So, after the battery has been fully assembled and supplemented with new sections, you can proceed with the installation of cranes. Recall that such structural elements are not mandatory, they are mounted at the request of the homeowners. So, instead of a plug, you can screw in, for example, through which the accumulated air masses in the heating system and, if necessary, the coolant will be discharged.

In addition, it should be noted that the decrease in the efficiency of radiators may be due to the thickness decorative coating which is applied to the battery. Indeed, after three or four layers of paint, the heater starts to work a little worse. Therefore, if you want to update the color of the radiator, it is best to remove a layer of old paint first.

In addition, it is highly undesirable to take ordinary enamel for painting, since over time it turns yellow, which requires its renewal. As a rule, for painting radiators, compositions are used that are characterized by resistance to high temperatures.

Another condition for creating an efficiently operating heat exchanger is the selection of high-quality Supplies. Unfortunately, today the market of this segment is represented by great amount connecting nipples, plugs, not to mention gaskets. Unscrupulous sellers, in order to earn as much profit as possible, can sell you low-quality components at the price of branded ones. Therefore, try to give your preference to proven materials. famous brands Or at least ask for advice from knowledgeable people.

After watching the video on how to disassemble a cast-iron radiator, you can make sure that this process will not cause difficulties in its implementation. The most important thing is caution and careful implementation of all recommendations for work of a similar plan!

VIDEO: How to assemble heating radiators

The need to disassemble the heating battery may arise for various reasons, for example, if the junction of the sections began to leak or a crack appeared on one of the ribs. In most cases, you can save the device by removing the damaged fin or sealing the joints. Below we will take a closer look at this operation, which will return the radiator to its original efficiency.

General information

Not so long ago, exclusively cast-iron radiators, however, at present, the choice of heating devices has expanded significantly, in particular, aluminum and metal batteries have appeared. Moreover, each type has its own structural features, respectively, the process of disassembling them looks different.

Therefore, below we will consider how to disassemble heating batteries with our own hands of all the most common types.

Advice!
To clean the device from scale and other contaminants, it is not necessary to disassemble it.
There are special liquid formulations that do the job well.

In the photo - a key for radiators

Disassembly

Tools

Before proceeding with the disassembly of the batteries, it is necessary to prepare the following tools:

• Wrenches for battery disassembly- 1 inch for bimetallic and aluminum appliances and 5/4 for cast iron.
• Plumbing wrench;
• Blowtorch;
• gas key.

Cast iron

Regardless of the type of radiator, before disassembling it, it is necessary to shut off the coolant supply, drain all liquid from it and then dismantle it. As a rule, cast-iron radiators are hung on hooks-brackets. Therefore, for dismantling, it is enough to disconnect them from the pipeline; for these purposes, you should use a plumbing adjustable wrench.

Further work is carried out in the following order:

Advice!
In parallel with the described work, you can adjust the number of sections, for example, install additional ones, or vice versa - remove the extra ones.
If sections are added, additional brackets must also be installed.

This completes the process of disassembling the cast-iron battery. Now, you can paint it and install it in place.

Aluminum and bimetallic

Now let's look at how to disassemble an aluminum heating radiator. It should be noted that the information below also applies to bimetallic devices, since they have the same design.

The disassembly process is in many ways reminiscent, however, there are some nuances:

• The nipples are smaller, respectively, other keys are used for them.
• Bimetal and aluminum devices are usually new products, respectively for disruption threaded connections significant efforts are not required, as is the case with cast iron appliances.
• On the front side of the plugs there is a designation of the right or left thread.
• They are significantly lighter than their cast iron counterparts.

All this greatly simplifies and speeds up the assembly / disassembly process. The only thing is that the work should be done carefully so as not to damage the paint. To do this, before disassembling a bimetallic radiator or an aluminum battery, you need to cover the area with rags.

Note!
Metal spacers are installed between sections of modern appliances.
After disassembly, it is extremely important to clean and wipe them so that they are perfectly smooth, since the tightness of the joints depends on this.

It should be noted that many models of aluminum appliances are non-separable. Of course, they can be disassembled, but it will not be possible to reassemble them. Here, in fact, is the entire instruction for assembling and disassembling radiators of various types.

Conclusion

The process of disassembling radiators is quite simple, however, difficulties may arise with cast-iron batteries, due to the “sticking” of parts. But, if you follow the recommendations above, everyone can cope with the task. home craftsman. The only thing is, for this you need to have the whole essential tool which is listed above.

Get more useful information on the topic voiced, you can from the video in this article.

From the author: hello, Dear friends! Often, the owners of dwellings face the question of how to disassemble an aluminum heating radiator. This happens in two cases. The first is a breakdown of equipment, a violation of its performance or a leak in one of the segments.

The second - when the power of the product is not enough to heat the room with high quality. This, as a rule, happens if the required indicator is initially incorrectly calculated. That is why it is recommended to invite a specialist to pre-calculate the required parameter.

A professional makes a calculation taking into account even the slightest nuance. In this situation, all factors are important - for example, the climate zone in which you live, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bpremises that need heating, the condition window frames, the presence of an insulating layer on the walls and much more.

It is clear that a person who does not have the appropriate knowledge and experience will not be able to correctly calculate the required power. Therefore, in fact, it often turns out that aluminum battery just unable to give right amount heat. Fortunately, this problem can be solved quite easily by disassembling the product and adding the required number of sections. How to do this, you will learn from today's article.

Product design

The aluminum radiator is a construction of separate sections connected to each other by means of nipple nuts. In fact, this connecting element is a cylinder, on each side of which an external thread is made. The cylinder is empty inside. Radiator sections are screwed onto each nipple-nut on both sides.

The connectors are located both at the top and at the bottom of the battery. Thus, each section of the radiator is attached to the adjacent one at four points. The nipple-nut is made in such a way that it is generally invisible in the assembled product.

Inside each connecting element there are protrusions that serve for the installation procedure. Clings to them special tool, with which the nut is untwisted and tightened. In this case, the direction of the thread should be taken into account - on some elements it is right-handed, on others it is left-handed.

In order not to play the "guessing game", just pay attention to the markings in the appropriate areas. If the letter D is indicated there, this means that the thread is right. The letter S points to the left. It is very important not to confuse, since trying to unscrew the nut in the opposite direction can lead to stripping of the thread and, therefore, damage to the element.

Parsing into segments

To properly disassemble an aluminum radiator, you will need a special tool - a nipple wrench, which is made specifically for this job. As a rule, it is not in stores, since it is a product of the mind and labor of plumbing workers. You can get it in two ways.

The first is to try your luck at the local market (if there is one), which sells various used tools and other useful household items. It is likely that there you will find what you are looking for, and at an affordable cost. The second option is to contact any workshop that deals with plumbing work, and ask them for a nipple wrench for rent.

When your search is successfully completed, you can proceed directly to dismantling the equipment. There is a specific order for this procedure.

1. The first thing to do is to shut off the water in the riser to which the radiator is connected and drain the coolant from the system. If you are the owner of a private house, you can do it yourself. If you are dealing with a centralized heating system, then such issues can only be resolved through the organization that manages the building. To do this, you need to write a statement and then wait for the arrival of a specialist. By the way, if you live in apartment building you can carry out such work only during the period when the heating season is already over. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to get permission, because stopping the central heating system will bring cold not only to yours, but also to the neighboring apartments.
2. After you have dealt with turning off the water in the system, place containers under the junctions of the radiator and the line to collect the remaining coolant that will flow out during the separation of the equipment.
3. Unscrew the fittings connecting the battery to the line. At the same time, check their condition. If you notice any flaws - cracks or “smoothed” threads - then it is better to replace these elements with new ones. Just keep in mind that not all metals are combined with aluminum radiators. For example, fittings made of brass or copper should absolutely not be used, as this may cause an electrochemical reaction, which will lead to the onset of corrosive processes.
4. After detaching, remove the radiator from the brackets holding it.
5. Now it's time to use the very tool that you worked hard to extract in your time. The nipple key must be inserted into the battery exactly to the place that you are going to dismantle. Then it is necessary to get the end of the tool into the hole intended for this on the connecting element. After you have succeeded, turn the nut in the desired direction by half a turn. In general, for this stage it is advisable to invite an assistant who will fix the radiator in one place while you fiddle with the connections. So, we turned the nut half a turn, go to the one located on the opposite side, and repeat the same operation there. Thus, by gradually unscrewing each element in turn, you can completely separate one section from another. Be careful and patient - each nut needs to be turned just a little, about 5–7 mm. Otherwise, the section may be severely skewed, resulting in damage to the radiator elements, and it will be necessary to replace them.
6. After unscrewing the necessary nuts, remove the segment, and then check all the gaskets that come with it. Quality and condition rubber seals plays important role. Deformed gaskets can cause leakage. Therefore, in case of the slightest doubt about their suitability, it is better to replace these elements with new ones. Moreover, it is advisable to purchase gaskets made of paronite, since this material has proven itself best. If this is not possible, then try to find at least silicone seals. It is not recommended to install rubber ones, as they quickly fail.

Assembly process

Assembling an aluminum heating radiator is as easy as disassembling it. First gather all the battery cells (including the extra sections if you plan to install them) in one place. Then lay out the parts of the structure on a flat surface and proceed with the assembly.

1. The first step is to carefully inspect the threads at all joints. Even if the radiator is brand new, there is still something to work on. For example, it is desirable to remove the paint from the end sections in order to ensure the greatest fit of the elements to each other. The thread itself needs to be cleaned up a bit so that there is a 100% guarantee that there are no irregularities that can lead to leakage. This requires sandpaper of the finest grit. Processing should be done carefully and slowly so as not to leave scratches.
2. Next, you need to degrease all the same end sections with gasoline, and thoroughly wash the seals with soapy water, rinse and dry. However, you can skip this step if you plan to use water as a heat transfer medium. But antifreeze will not forgive such an attitude, since it is extremely fluid and can use even a microscopic gap as a loophole.
3. Now you can start assembling. Install gaskets on the nipple connectors, and then, using the same tool, screw onto the nuts of the radiator section. The process must be carried out with the same gradualness as during disassembly - first unscrew one nut a little, then the second, then return to the first again and so on.
4. After completing all the sections, put the plug included in the kit on one of the extreme segments, and the Mayevsky crane on the opposite one, which is necessary for the regular release of excess air from the heating radiator. This will help to avoid the occurrence of air pockets that impede the flow of the coolant.

Describing the operation of a nipple wrench often seems complicated. But in fact, the main thing is to start, and then quickly adapt. So do not be afraid, feel free to get to work, remembering the necessary accuracy of its implementation. Good luck!

As practice shows, despite the use modern materials for the manufacture of heating radiators, cast iron products do not lose their consumer. And all because cast iron is distinguished by excellent heat dissipation and at the same time has the inertia of energy transfer, being a good heat accumulator. Therefore, for many consumers, when choosing what batteries, what heating boilers, or rather, heat exchangers built into them, their manufacture from cast iron is decisive. For the same reason, many are in no hurry to replace old heating systems that have served for decades.

However, sometimes cast-iron radiators, having a considerable service life behind them, require repair. Usually it consists in replacing a leaky and leaky gasket between sections, which is possible only with partial disassembly of the battery. It is possible that a modern cast-iron radiator will not have to be disassembled. Such a need may arise in the event of a miscalculation in the number of sections for heating a certain separate room, when it is necessary to increase the radiator by adding its structural elements.

In other words, not a single cast-iron radiator is insured against the potential possibility of being disconnected during its operation, which is calculated in tens of years, and therefore knowledge of the rules for disassembling and assembling these products can come in handy.

How to disassemble a new cast iron radiator

A new radiator, which does not last long, rarely leaks, more often the need to disassemble it arises if you want to add (or take away, it happens) the number of sections.

For whatever reason, the need for disassembly arises, the battery, first of all, must be disconnected from the connected communications and removed from the hooks holding it. Before doing this, do not forget to drain the coolant from the system or turn off the taps on the pipes, if any.

You also need to drain the water from the battery itself by lifting one of its sides. Due to the massiveness of the cast-iron radiator, it is better to do the work with an assistant. The product freed from the contents is laid flat on pre-planted boards or, say, chipboard sheet or OSB front side up.

Now you need to unscrew the fittings (hollow nuts with internal and external threads for connecting pipes to the battery) and plugs using an appropriately sized or adjustable wrench.

It's time to disconnect the section and for this you need a special plumbing radiator wrench. You will not find this tool in stores, you can rent it in special services or ask a plumber you know to use it. The point is that this makeshift fixture, so no two keys are the same. What they have in common is a working rectangular tip with dimensions of 40x24 mm, which is welded either to a long (up to 70 cm) piece of metal reinforcement or pipe. On the other side of the iron rod there is usually an eye for inserting some kind of lever into it.

Before proceeding with unwinding, you need to decide on the direction of the thread. There may be nuances, but in most cases, if you approach the radiator from the front, there will be a right-hand thread on the right, and a left-hand thread on the left. Usually this rule applies to plugs and bushings on each side, so the direction of the thread can be recognized from them. On the modern models near the inlet holes there may be a marking L - left, R - right thread.

Having decided on the thread, you can begin to disassemble the cast-iron radiators. If you need to disconnect the extreme segments, it is usually easy to find the desired nut with a wrench. When you are interested in a connection located closer to the middle of the battery, it is advisable to make a mark on the key corresponding to the distance from the inlet to the desired articulation of the segments. You can mark with chalk, a piece of tape or electrical tape, winding it in the right place. Now you need to enter the key, slightly turning it as it passes through the holes it meets.

Having found the desired nipple-nut and inserting a working tip into its hole, you can insert a wrench into the eye on the other side of the key and try to break the nut according to the direction of the thread. The applied force can be noticeable, so it is better to take a collar that is stronger and more authentic. If the nut succumbs, you can scroll no more than half a turn so that there is no distortion and tension that brittle cast iron does not like. Now the same procedure must be done with another nut that tightens the sections of interest.

The nipples are unscrewed one by one, - one turn - lower, one turn - upper, and so on until the sections of the heating battery are completely separated.

Dismantling an old cast-iron radiator

In order to disassemble a battered cast-iron radiator, you usually have to make great efforts due to the fact that over time the connecting nuts “stick”, becoming covered with a decent layer of all sorts of raids and deposits. In addition, corrosion can partially destroy the hole in the nipple, due to which the radiator key may not be effective. Therefore, by providing possible difficulties need to prepare additional tool which may be needed:

• blowtorch or building hair dryer;
• angle grinder (grinder) with a circle for metal;
• hacksaw for metal;
• a small sledgehammer.

It is better to disassemble the old heating battery on the street, putting it on something wooden. Before proceeding with the disassembly of a radiator that has served for a long time, it is desirable to thoroughly run it with running water. Then you can try to do everything as with the new one. If the attempt to break the tie nut is not successful, which is quite likely, additional measures can be resorted to.

• Heat the compound of interest. To do this, it is better to use a blowtorch or, at least, a building hair dryer. The heating battery at the junction of the segments must be thoroughly warmed up in a circle, after which, without allowing it to cool, try to break the nut. You can try to do several heating-cooling cycles if the first time fails. When working with hot metal, do not forget about safety precautions, using thick protective gloves. If after that the process did not go, you will have to apply more radical methods of influence.
• Saw the junction of the sections. This can be done faster with the help of a grinder. But, at the same time, one should not overdo it, because with such a sufficiently long exposure, the cast iron can crack. Therefore, you need to cut with small breaks, and not in one go. If there is time and desire, it is better to do this by using a hacksaw.
• Break up a section. In the case when sawing does not seem like a good idea, but you still need to disassemble the battery, you can slowly, carefully (a fragment can bounce) break one of the sections with a sledgehammer, starting from its middle and gradually moving towards the joints.

Assembly of cast iron radiators

You can assemble the battery in the reverse order. Before assembly, sort out the nipples, checking the quality of the thread and the internal hole for the radiator key. If necessary, replace the nuts with new ones. Fresh gaskets are also needed, preferably from paronite, but silicone can also be used. It is advisable to clean the surfaces of the sections at the joints with sandpaper, even if they are new.

Now the connecting sections are laid out against each other on a flat surface so that the holes match as much as possible. A gasket is put on the connecting nuts, after which the nipple is slightly screwed into two opposite sections at the same time, first at the top, then at the bottom (or vice versa). The nuts must also be tightened alternately, avoiding distortions. First, the key is turned by hand without a knob - the nipples, if they go along the thread, should be easily screwed in. Only the last turns of nuts when assembling sections of cast-iron radiators should provide strong resistance when a knob is to be used.