Steps plywood or board. Fastening wooden steps to a concrete staircase - a beautiful decor is guaranteed! Stages of staircase development

In the article we will explore everything related to stairs - their optimal dimensions, the correct names of the elements and the materials used. Can steps for stairs be made of agglomerate, glass or plywood? What is tread and riser? How should width and height be related?

We will try to answer all these questions.

Let's start with an acquaintance with the terms adopted by builders to designate structural elements.

tread called the horizontal part of the step, on which, in fact, we put our foot when walking.
stair riser – vertical element connecting two treads. It performs not only decorative, but also load-bearing functions. However, many designs do just fine without it.
Kosour- a beam on which the steps rest on top. Usually there are two stringers per straight march, however, there are designs with a central location of a single carrier beam.
If the stairs are not supported by bearing beams from above, and in one way or another fixed between them, another term is used. In this case, the beams are called bowstrings of ladder structures.
A marching staircase has one or more straight sections connected by landings or so-called winder steps with trapezoidal treads. Each straight section is called a march.

An important point: according to current SNiP, the march can include no more than 18 steps, and the platform connecting the marches must have a length at least not less than the width of the stairs.
This instruction is related to safety when descending: in the event of a fall landing will allow you to stop, avoiding serious injury.

The screw structure is assembled around the supporting column. The steps are the same and have the shape of a trapezoid or triangle.

middle line- a conditional straight line or curve, which, contrary to the name, is not always drawn in the middle of the step. It is assumed that a person descending or ascending the stairs will move along it. For triangular or trapezoidal steps, the middle line runs closer to the wider edge.
railing- a set of balusters ( uprights) and handrails. In addition to providing safety, in some designs, railings are part of the load-bearing structure. For example, at spiral staircases the outer edges of the steps are often connected by elongated balusters: this is the design we see in the previous photo.
Balustrade- fencing of the landing or internal balcony.

Dimensions

Of course, most of the parameters are selected in each case individually. And the distance between the floors, and the size of the opening, and the requirements for compactness can vary greatly.

However, there are certain optimal sizes and proportions dictated by human anatomy; in addition, a number of requirements for internal stairs dictate fire safety rules.

Let's look at the problem from both sides.

Convenience

Please note: the given parameters are tied to the height of a person (more precisely, the length of his legs).
For a very tall or very short occupant of the house, the stairs of the dimensions below may well seem uncomfortable.

The optimal width of a step for a ladder designed for the ascent or descent of one person is 90 centimeters. If it is intended to use the ladder by two people at the same time, it is recommended to adhere to a size of 125-150 centimeters.

For attics and basements, however, it is permissible to build a ladder only 50-60 cm wide: for the sake of compactness, in this case, you can sacrifice convenience, because you rarely have to go up to the attic or go down to the basement.

The optimal depth of the step of the ladder should allow you to put your entire foot on it. The heel hanging when lifting will keep the muscles of the ankle in constant tension; when descending, a narrow step can cause you to find yourself at the bottom of the march much faster than you would like.
A tread of 30 cm is considered optimal; allowable range of 260 - 355 mm. The exception is, again, attic and basement ladders.
The vertical step of the steps of the stairs should, on the one hand, not force the knee to be raised too wide when ascending and not create problems when descending; on the other hand, in combination with the depth of the tread, it allows you to overcome one step in one step.
There are two rules here:

- The height of the riser must be at least 15 and not more than 20 cm.
- The width of the tread and twice the height of the riser should be equal to the length of the average step (usually 60-64 centimeters). So, with a tread width of 30 cm, the optimal height is (64-30) / 2 = 17 centimeters.

The slope of the stairs, making it the most comfortable - 1: 2 (30 degrees to the horizon). A slope in the range of 30-45 degrees is considered convenient; at 25 degrees or less, it is recommended to either build a ramp (a kind of staircase without steps, an inclined platform), or break the stairs into several flights with a standard slope and wide horizontal platforms.
And here attic and basement ladders stand apart: for them, an angle of up to 75 degrees is considered acceptable.

Fire safety

What should be the steps on the stairs in terms of fire safety?

In general, the requirements do not in the least contradict the wishes we have already stated for comfort. This is quite understandable: the staircase that is convenient to go down will be safe.

Let's still mention the main points.

At least one staircase between the floors of the house must have a width of 90 cm or more.
Allow a slope of no more than 40 degrees. Evacuation in case of fire should be quick, but not head over heels.
Steps along the entire staircase should have the same dimensions. Otherwise, it will be easy to stumble in a smoky room.
The tread should protrude beyond the riser by no more than 50 millimeters. In this case, there is less chance of catching your heel on it when descending or tripping when ascending.
Stairs (first of all - the first and last steps) should be brightly lit.
The depth of a triangular or trapezoidal step on the midline should not be less than 20 centimeters. The width of the narrow side of the trapezoidal step is also regulated: at least 15 cm.
The minimum height of railings and balustrades for stairs with a height of not more than 6 meters is 90 cm; over 6 meters - 100 cm. At the same time, the strength of the fences should allow them to withstand a horizontal load of 100 kgf.

materials

What are stairs made of? Let's try to analyze the properties of some popular materials to create them.

Reinforced concrete

The material is perfectly familiar to any inhabitant of an apartment building.

beautiful load bearing capacity and durability are appropriate there; iron in a private house concrete steps are much less popular.

The huge mass makes serious demands on the strength of the floors. Houses with floors wooden beams disappear immediately; in the case of a monolithic or slab floor from the same reinforced concrete, a calculation of its bearing capacity is required.
When pouring stairs on the spot, a long waiting period is rather inconvenient: concrete gains strength for about a month; you can walk the stairs no earlier than 3-4 days later.

Outside stairs stand apart metal frame and entry stairs. There, concrete steps are in demand due to their resistance to humidity and temperature changes.

Useful: in this case, concrete grade not lower than M200 is used.
For its self-preparation, cement M400 and sand are taken in a ratio of 1: 2.8.
The addition of 4.8 parts of crushed stone is permissible.

The coating for external and internal concrete stairs is often tile (usually clinker, characterized by extreme wear resistance).

Steel

Steel stair steps- a rather dubious solution for the interior; for outdoor stairs, this material is well-deservedly popular.

At steel steps stairs only two serious problems:

Corrosion. Alkyd primer and enamel coating protect steel from it, however, periodically the surface will have to be tinted.
Noise. About you climbing all steel outdoor stairs, not only your family members, but also the nearest neighbors will know.

What type of coverage can be used?

Several options are possible:

Type-setting tread from a bar or fittings.
Perforated sheet. Like the previous solution, it is good because it will not accumulate water (and, accordingly, ice in the off-season) and slip.
Corrugated solid sheet. Corrugation will make the surface less slippery; however, in this case, there is no escape from water and ice, and the price square meter such coverage (and, accordingly, the cost of steps for stairs) will be slightly higher.

In the photo - corrugated steel flooring.

Wood

The most popular material for interior stairs is, of course, wood.

There are many reasons for this:

Wood is easily processed with your own hands using the simplest tools.
The most popular species - spruce, pine and larch - are more than inexpensive.

An important point: the material that came directly from the sawmill needs a long drying time.
A damp step will inevitably lead.

The connection of load-bearing elements with steps and railings also does not present any problems.
Finally, the low thermal conductivity and heat capacity of wood means that wood steps will always feel warm to the touch. If you like to walk barefoot, you can not expect any discomfort in this case.

Stairs can be solid wood; in addition, steps made of wood are often mounted on a steel frame or concrete base.

What breeds are preferred?

The choice of hardwoods is optimal - oak, beech, ash and maple. They have a beautiful texture, which will be emphasized by the lacquer coating of the steps of the stairs; in addition, these types of wood are durable and wear-resistant.
The steps made of birch are also residually strong, but devoid of a pronounced texture. In addition, birch rots easily: antiseptic treatment and a waterproof coating are required.
Budget solutions - spruce, larch and pine - have already been mentioned. On the steps of their wood, scratches and dents easily remain. However, a durable wear-resistant coating for stairs (for example, polyurethane parquet varnish in 5-7 layers) completely solves the problem.

Plywood

With a width of more than 50 centimeters, plywood steps for stairs are made either with a riser or on a steel frame from a corner or a professional pipe. The fact is that plywood tends to sag under load and, worse, retain deformation.

The thickness is determined by the size of the step and the presence of stiffeners:

If the steel frame along the perimeter serves as a support for the tread, you can limit yourself to 12 millimeters.
For fully plywood steps with an emphasis on the riser, a reasonable minimum is 18 mm.
Steps 40 - 50 cm wide based on bowstrings are best made from 22 mm plywood.

exotic

Some materials, due to their high cost or problems associated with them, are rather moderately popular; however, they deserve a mention.

Tempered glass is used in conjunction with a steel frame or so-called bolts - metal elements linking the stairs into a single self-supporting structure. The material looks impressive; however, the slippery surface and extreme injury risk do not really favor him.
Agglomerate (artificial stone) is strong enough and beautiful, but quite expensive. In addition, it is cold to the touch: walking barefoot on its surface is rather unpleasant.

Natural stone as a material for steps is a more prestigious than practical solution. Let's put it this way: if you are not going to host friendly foreign delegations, it is better to forget about it.

Conclusion

We hope that we have given the reader general idea about general principles staircase structures. In the presented video in this article you will find Additional information on this topic. Successes in construction!

Initially, it should be noted that our company has its own production base in St. Petersburg for the manufacture of steps for stairs and other related products from wood used in stairs and stair railings. Making steps from various materials, we are not interested in clearly exalting the properties of one product over another, so we will try to give a balanced assessment of the qualities of the different stages we produce.

Each product type has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, unfortunately, we cannot give unambiguous recommendations that such steps are better and, they say, they should be guided only by them. We list some properties and give them a small set of explanations. So…

STEPS FROM SOLID WOOD

Our company manufactures steps only from solid wood. Sometimes they are also called noble breeds. The most commonly used species are beech and oak. Somewhat less often, they order larch, ash, maple. In this note, we will not list all the differences between tree species, but will only touch on those properties that affect the strength and wear resistance of steps.

Of course, everything described below is valid for stages produced on special equipment with careful observance of the entire technological chain:

Selection quality wood from a trusted supplier
Keeping wood in production to bring the temperature and moisture content of wood to the workshop.
Calibration of lamellas (bars) of future steps.
Gluing steps in special presses
Exposure of shields for stress release
Shield processing and calibration
Exposure of wooden steps to control the state of the surface.

As you can see, the density and hardness of the wood we use is approximately the same, which means that the strength of the steps is also approximately similar. Therefore, when choosing between different tree species, one should take into account appearance and possibly the price.

It should be noted that beech has one operational feature - increased, in comparison with other species, hygroscopicity. That is, it is saturated with moisture faster and gives off more intensively.

How does this affect the operation of the steps? I must say, on average, it is insignificant. This slight difference from other species affects some of the release of adhesive seams on the surface of the wood and slight cracking in the fibers. Let us explain that this is really a small difference, which in most cases is not significant, manifests itself in small structural changes, which, as a rule, do not affect the strength characteristics of the steps, but only their appearance, and, as we said above, in our opinion, insignificantly . In addition, all these consequences, as a rule, are eliminated. Small restoration measures performed on site, i.e. without removing the steps, using wax crayons and non-halo varnishes, can eliminate most of the negative effects. If, due to any negative influences ( high humidity, excessive dryness, accident, house long time without heating) restoration measures are not enough, the design of our stairs allows you to simply replace the step with a temporary one, with its subsequent restoration in the carpentry shop or immediately with a new one.

Steps from the array are produced using several technologies:

Steps made of glued beams of one type of wood. It is these steps that can be called made of oak, beech, and so on, that is, from an array.

This is how we make our steps. Also, gluing technology is used in the manufacture of handrails made of wood.

It should be noted here that there is a type of lamellar gluing of wide and narrow boards, which also externally (without a deck) look like steps made from a wide board. We do not use this gluing technology, because we consider it, although less labor intensive, but also less reliable.

Steps with a base of weak wood (eg pine) followed by a veneer or a deck of noble woods are composite wood steps. Although such steps are cheaper at cost, they are clearly worse in quality due to the use soft base and different density, which can provoke future cracking - not our technology.
Solid wood steps with deck cladding. The deck is, one might say, the same as the veneer, but only much thicker. We apply a deck of 5 mm. Deck cladding practically does not affect the strength of the steps, it is a decorative layer that allows you to give the steps a look made of a wide board.

Summing up the description of steps from the array, let's say that their main property is the high density of wood, i.e. the strength of the step itself.

Solid wood steps are well resistant to external force, in the form of falling objects on a plane or something like that, but, of course, like any wood, they are afraid of ladies' hairpins.

STEPS ON PLYWOOD BASIS WITH COVERING DECK AND VENEER

Recall the difference between deck and veneer. Veneer is a thin slice of wood 0.6-1.2 mm. A deck is considered to be wood thicker than veneer, usually up to 12 mm. We use a deck with a thickness of 5 mm.

What are the benefits of these levels?

Steps made using this technology are cheaper than steps made entirely of solid wood.
The steps are covered with a deck on top, a special lead-in bar is installed at the approach, and the rest of the visible parts of the steps are covered with veneer. That is, the steps outwardly look like steps made using expensive technology - solid wood with decking.
A step on plywood is less susceptible, unlike solid wood, to temperature and humidity effects.

But there is also a small downside. Such steps are somewhat less durable due to the softer base, since plywood is usually made of birch than steps made of solid beech, oak, ash and other dense types of wood we use.

Softer is not essential. Steps on a plywood basis showed themselves well in bolt stairs, in which the strength properties of wood are very important.

But, nevertheless, the most important property in this product is precisely the property that it is better to tolerate moisture exposure than a completely natural tree.

When installing facing steps on concrete stairs, as a rule, before laying the concrete steps are prepared, including, in order to cut off the possible moisture of the steps, a layer of plywood is laid on the concrete. Our steps immediately, without such preparation, are suitable for facing concrete steps.

GENERAL CONCLUSION

Based on all of the above, we can conclude that if:

if you want to save money - use plywood-based steps
for facing concrete stairs - plywood-based steps are also suitable.
steps from the massif, for facing concrete stairs, install after pre-training
for most suspended or bolted, as well as stringer stairs, solid wood steps are suitable.

The staircase is always a decoration of any home. But when choosing its design, aesthetics is in last place. The main criterion when choosing a ladder should be its strength and comfort. You can often find very beautiful designer stairs, but climbing them is very inconvenient. The most important part of any staircase are the steps. And if the staircase is not made entirely of metal, its steps are made of wood. Since, unlike metal, wood is much cheaper.

First of all, the manufacturer of the stairs will offer to choose the steps from the array. This material has high density and nice texture. An array made under beech and oak is in special demand. Slightly lower demand for larch, ash and maple. There are a number of factors that greatly affect the quality of steps:

The quality of the wood must be high.
The degree of moisture content of the material must also be within the normal range.
The calibration of the slats must be carried out with particular precision and accuracy.
Gluing steps must be carried out very high quality.

Each tree species has its own special properties which make it more suitable for mounting stairs. For example, beech absorbs moisture more strongly. Such minor features cannot greatly affect the quality of the steps. In addition, minor surface damage can be easily eliminated with special crayons. More serious problems are also easily solved. Any step that has become unusable can be replaced by buying a new one in advance. Either immediately for a new one, or for a temporary one, if a new one is not available. If the design of the stairs allows for such a replacement.

Solid wood steps can be produced using one of several technologies. Future steps can be glued from bars of the same type. Steps will cost much less if pine or spruce is taken as the basis. From above they are covered with veneer. And if outwardly such steps look quite decent, then they will always be inferior in strength to more expensive types of wood. You need to be prepared for the fact that over time they will begin to crack. Solid wood steps can be veneered not only with veneer. There is also deck cladding. The deck is a material very similar to veneer, the difference lies in its thickness. The standard deck thickness is 5mm. This material will not affect the strength of the steps. This layer is necessary for beauty.

Important: Solid wood steps are more durable and strong. They are less susceptible to mechanical damage. Able to withstand heavy loads.

Plywood steps, even if pasted over with veneer or deck, will always cost less. But their service life will be much less than that of steps from the array. Outwardly, the difference between the two types of steps is almost imperceptible. The advantage of plywood steps is their ability to withstand moisture. And although they are less durable due to the soft woods underlying them, for use in homes where there are not many people, they are ideal. The choice of steps for the stairs should be done based on the requirements that will be presented to you in the future. this product. If the goal is to save money, then plywood steps are the only option.

Fasten wooden steps to a concrete staircase in such a way that the created structure ensures the safety of movement along it. At the same time, the structure itself should not stand out from the existing interior, but harmoniously fit into it. Let's figure out how to achieve this.

Wooden steps - we will ennoble the stairs made of concrete>

Concrete stair structures are considered to be the most durable and reliable. Such structures serve for many decades, withstand serious loads without problems. You can build them yourself by building using publicly available and inexpensive Construction Materials- sand, cement, gravel. The disadvantage of any staircase made of concrete is that it does not look the best from the outside. in the best way. This problem is easily solved. You can finish the building with any decorative material, ranging from natural stone and tiles, and ending with fibreboard or natural wood.

wooden stairs

Owners of private houses most often use solid wood for facing staircase structures made of concrete. It costs a lot. But the results finishing works made with this material are, without the slightest exaggeration, amazing. The use of wood allows you to create in your home special atmosphere luxury and chic. Finishing the stairs with solid wood, in addition, has a number important virtues. natural material:

perfectly protects the structure from operational damage (concrete spalling):
makes it possible to mask the defects of the base;
accumulates heat;
causes pleasant tactile sensations (wood is very pleasant to the touch).

Caring for wooden steps is quite simple. At the same time, their service life is calculated for many years. True, for this you will have to take care of the material in advance - treat it with special impregnations that protect products from the sun and moisture.

Choosing the type of wood for finishing - what are the options?

You can improve the concrete stairs different wood. The cheapest is an array of pine. Such products are easily processed with their own hands, they are light in weight, which facilitates the installation of steps. But you need to understand that pine boards strength qualities are not ideal in operation. With intensive use of the stairs, they quickly fail and lose their attractive appearance. The durability of pine structures is also negatively affected by the changeable microclimate in the room. The boards dry out and loosen with temperature changes, and also lose their initial properties under the influence of moisture.

Wood for stairs

For these reasons, more often steps are made of walnut, oak, maple, larch, beech and birch. If your budget for finishing the stairs is not limited by anything, you can choose more expensive types of wood - iroko, lapacha, merbau, wenge, teak. Their exotic appearance is complemented by excellent operational characteristics.The most durable are beech products. Steps from this wood are mounted for centuries. But processing a beech array is very difficult. It is almost impossible to cope with this material on your own. You may have a lot of problems when installing steps from it.

It is easier to work with oak boards. In terms of strength, they are not much inferior to beech, but they are processed much easier.

There is also a problem here - the high cost of solid oak. Not everyone can afford to buy similar material for finishing concrete stairs. There is an exit! You can use instead of oak products those made from larch. They are cheaper in price, and in most respects they are identical to solid oak. Choose the material for cladding structures, taking into account your financial capabilities and personal preferences, and then you can get an impeccable staircase in all respects in your home. It will decorate the interior of the house and give you a feeling of comfort.

Installation of steps - starting with a concrete base and substrate

The first step is to prepare the concrete base. If the staircase was built by professionals, there will, of course, be no significant defects on its surface. In this case, it is enough for you to level the base using easy-to-use. If there are noticeable height differences on the surface of the structure, you will have to additionally work on the stairs. You have to mount a special substrate under each step. They make it out of plywood. Such a substrate and a concrete base will be able to qualitatively level and, in addition, will protect the structure from mechanical stress, acting as a shock absorber.

Installation of steps

You need to purchase plywood sheets 1–1.5 cm thick, cut out substrates from them, focusing on the size of the steps. Then prime the surface of the stairs well, apply to pieces of plywood (with reverse side) glue for wood and mount them in the intended place. Be sure to check the correct position of the substrates on the staircase building level. Plywood should be additionally fixed. Glue for reliable fixation of the substrates to the concrete steps will not be enough. Fastening plywood products is usually done with dowels. They are installed on both sides of the steps. Decide on the number of hardware required, remembering that the plywood must be firmly attached to the base.

Installation and fastening of the "clothes" for the stairs - we perform together

Now cut out the treads and risers from the wood of your choice, focusing on the dimensions of the stairs. Installation wooden products always starts from the bottom of the structure in the following way:

At the bottom of the riser (at the end), drill three holes. Their depth is taken about 1.5 cm, the cross section is not more than 0.5 cm. The holes should be located in the middle of the riser and on both sides of it.
Screw 6 mm bolts into the holes made. They will play the role of anchors. Their ends must protrude above the structure by about 7–8 mm.
Bite off (cut off with a grinder) the bolt heads.
Substitute the riser to the first step (to its end), mark on the floor the places where the anchors fall, drill holes in the intended areas. Then you need to fill the resulting "holes" with resin (epoxy).
Mount the riser in the place intended for it. fasten given element to the plywood substrate should be using liquid nails. Lubricate a piece of plywood with this adhesive, and then carefully place a riser on it (the screwed anchor bolts must be inserted into the holes that were made on the floor).

Arrangement of wooden steps

Some craftsmen attach the risers and plywood with universal self-tapping screws or nails of suitable size. This option can also be used. But such work should be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage the wood and rather thin plywood products. The next step is to install the tread. To do this, you need to cut a special groove in it. It will be located at the junction point of the end (upper) of the already mounted riser and the installed tread.

Now everything is easier. Attach the next riser to the second end of the mounted tread (you need to fix it with self-tapping screws). Then coat the groove and the plywood backing with adhesive and install the first stage. In order for it to grab well, it is advisable to put something heavy on it. The rest of the steps are installed in the same way. After installing the wooden steps, be sure to seal the gaps on them and sand them. After sanding, you can treat the wood with stain. When it dries, apply varnish to the steps. The latter is usually used three times. Varnish the steps once, wait for the composition to dry, then repeat the procedure twice.

As you can see, there are no serious difficulties with the process of finishing a concrete staircase with wood. The main thing is to follow the recommendations described and properly fix the steps using liquid nails and other hardware (nails, screws, dowels). The result of your work will be a smartly designed concrete staircase.

During one of my last orders, I heard a guy hanging wall cabinets in the kitchen ask his partner: “Listen, what kind of old fart is sitting there on the stairs?” To my horror, I quickly realized that there was only one staircase in the house and guessed who he was - this "old fart" that the guys were talking about.

I must admit they were right. For more than a dozen years I have had to make stairs according to individual orders and mount them, and in the process of this activity I really did not look younger.

Rice. Durability, reliability and elegance minimal cost. Since tread from hard rock wood is expensive, this economical staircase uses 25 mm thick OSB treads. Carpeted and edged with wood end caps hard rock these steps look great* End plates not only serve as a border for carpeted steps, but also serve as support elements for balusters. Using simple technological techniques, an economical staircase can be made so that it is both reliable and beautiful.

However, the years were not in vain - I gained experience in the manufacture of stairs and came to some important conclusions. The main one is that a strong, reliable, beautiful and non-creaking staircase should be erected under controlled conditions (preferably in a workshop).

In the presence of stationary equipment, it is possible to more accurately produce parts that, when fitted to each other, form a structure. The manufacture of stairs in the workshop allows you to make all measurements under favorable lighting in comfortable conditions, which guarantees the accuracy of manufacturing. When working in the workshop, there is always an additional clamp or other necessary equipment at hand. There are unlikely to be problems with materials and tools, as is often the case on a construction site.

Finally, another important argument in favor of not making the stairs at the construction site is that you will not feel like an obstacle to the path of those who move around the house doing their work.

There is nothing more impressive than arriving at a construction site with a staircase made as perfect as a piano, bringing it into the house and effortlessly setting it into place. Such a spectacle turns any modest master in the eyes of the client into a real magician.

Despite all these advantages of this technology, most craftsmen still prefer to make stairs at the construction site. However, even there you can use the techniques that are used in the workshop. Of course, it is difficult to provide fully controlled conditions on a construction site. However, if you are not too lazy to make the simplest devices, the quality of work can be very decent.

Plywood instead of boards

Over the years of my work, I have become convinced that bowstrings should be made from materials with stable properties, such as plywood, and not from boards. In the manufacture of stairs on a construction site, where air humidity fluctuates widely, wood shrinkage can greatly affect the quality of work. Ladders made with plywood bowstrings are more stable in this respect. Bowstrings cut from standard lumber shrink unevenly when the humidity level inside the house stabilizes. To a lesser extent, this occurs in inside corners treads and risers (their narrowest places) and more significantly - in the outer corners, where the width of the bowstring is greatest. The uneven shrinkage leads to the fact that the front part of the treads begins to “fall over”. Stairs with such steps are not only dangerous. In addition, it is difficult to precisely cut the balusters to fit the slanted treads, which noticeably spoils the appearance of the product. If the bowstrings are made of plywood, there are no such problems.

Rice. High quality plywood stringers. load-bearing elements the board shrinks when dry. Moreover, that part of the kosour, in which cutouts for treads and risers are made, shrinks faster than the back of the supporting beam of the stairs. As a result, the nose of the treads tilts down.

Materials - according to the estimate. The design of the proposed staircase is versatile, and it can be adapted to almost any style of decoration and to any cost estimate by simply selecting certain materials. The product in question is economical solution for those who are used to counting money.

For bowstrings and treads, you can apply a variety of finishing methods. For example, they can be painted or veneered stylish decor. Since the bowstrings of our stairs were supposed to be covered with dry plaster sheets and then painted, I chose to make inexpensive plywood intended for outdoor use. shavings).

Rice. Double layer braids. Stringers glued from two layers of plywood with a thickness of 18 mm are practically not subject to deformation from shrinkage.

The first task is to saw the plywood for the bowstrings into strips of the desired width. Using parts with a length of 2.4 and 1.2 mg for each layer, I connect them so that I end up with blanks 3.6 m long. If the house is already protected from adverse weather conditions and there is no need to be afraid that the stairs will be flooded with water during rain, you can use quick-drying glue to internal works. I arrange short and long strips in a checkerboard pattern and glue them.

I usually take a large portable stand with me to the construction site, which gives me a level, flat surface. work surface for easy fixing of parts. I note that most of my colleagues do not do this and collect the elements of the stairs on the floor. Gluing is much easier to control on a specially adapted stand.

To quickly apply the glue, I use a paint roller. Having smeared the plywood with glue, I connect the upper and lower layers and fix them every 30 cm with clamps. It is necessary to carefully check that all the clamps are tightly tightened - otherwise the glue will be unevenly distributed over the surface. While the glue at the kosour blanks dries, you can not waste time and start trimming the treads and risers.

To determine the depth of the treads, I first calculate the width of the overhang. The end caps I usually use for treads are 45mm wide. In this case, the treads were supposed to be covered with a 12 mm thick carpet. To take this into account, I had to cut off these 12 mm lengthwise from each part.

Rice. The contours of each tread and each riser must be copied very accurately. Measuring devices attached with clamps to the edge of the square, allow you to accurately follow the contour of each step.

So that the stairs do not creak

After the glue hardens, I release the stringer assembly from the clamps, and then, using a square, draw a bowstring profile on the workpiece.

When measuring the total length and width of stairs, one should proceed from the size of the opening in the ceiling. When measuring the rise of the stairs, as a rule, the distance from the bottom clean floor to the top is taken. However, in this case, at the beginning of the march, a landing was provided, in front of which it was supposed to install an additional step. This meant that the total rise of the stairs needed to be measured from the top cut of this landing, and not from the floor of the lower floor.

The design under consideration has a cutout where the staircase rests on the landing, as well as a similar selection for the floor beam at the top end of the stairs. This allows you to achieve accurate pairing of stringers with the opening. I note that attention to such "little things" always distinguishes the work of a true master,

Having determined all these parameters, I can already establish the exact dimensions of the lower platform, the construction of which I immediately proceed to, so that it is ready by the time the time comes for the installation of the stairs. At the end of the installation of the platform, I check each connection, which is very important if you want to get a non-squeaky staircase.

The creak of treads is the result of shrinkage and warping of the wood. When it dries, the fasteners no longer provide tight connections. As a result, parts and fasteners begin to rub against each other, causing a creak. What we hear, as a rule, is the sound of wood moving relative to the nail.

Many craftsmen working on the construction site ignore such special equipment (eg clamps, stops, guides), believing that its production requires extra effort. Of course, this is true, but the use of a guide allows me to avoid defects resulting from undercuts "by eye". The cuts I make with the jig fill in all the gaps, the connections are tight, so the ladder doesn't creak as you move up it.

Rice. With the help of the jig, you can make perfect cuts. base plate a circular saw is pressed against a simple fixture made of fiberboard. The cuts are completed with a hacksaw, and then cleaned.

Among other things, I always add a plywood trim to the top riser where the ladder attaches to the top floor landing. This "back" gives additional rigidity installed ladder, eliminating another potential source of squeaking.

Simple clips speed up trimming and assembly

The jig that serves as a stop for the circular saw when making cutouts for risers and treads in the stringer, I usually make from scraps of fiberboard,

Using a jig is another technological method which I always endure on the sinter quality of the connection wooden elements, which is typical for furniture,

Rice. Assembly slipway. A jig made from strips of plywood holds the stringers at a predetermined distance from each other while the craftsman is guiding the treads and treads.

Insofar as circular saw it is difficult to complete the undercut to the end in each corner, I do this with a hacksaw. After making the first kosour, I firmly press it with clamps to the second blank and draw contours on it. I do the second kosour in the same way as the first.

After both stringers are cut, I make an assembly slipway, based on a pair of saw goats. This device allows me to hold the stringers securely and strictly parallel at a height convenient for work.

Most carpenters I've seen working on a construction site either assemble ladders on the floor by crawling on their knees, or mount them in situ (on the fly) and struggle trying to attach treads and risers while holding stringers.

Rice. The reference marks will help align the bowstrings in the jig. To check the control marks, the stringers are laid flat. To align the stringers, you need a square and a ruler.

It takes just a few minutes to install the assembly slipway. As a result, I get a comfortable workplace, allowing you to assemble the elements of the stairs with minimal effort and with excellent quality.

I make an assembly slipway from two "platforms" 2.4 m long, mounted between sawhorses. Each “platform” is a plywood base “strip” 25 cm wide, to which a plywood overlay 7.5 cm wide is attached with screws. vertical position stringers corresponded to the specified width of the stairs. To press the stringers to the overlays, I use spacers.

I align the stringers on the assembly jig with the control marks using a square. I do the check marks as follows: I lay the stringers flat close to each other and draw pencil lines across both parts in several places. Then, when the stringers are already on the slipway, with the help of a square and a ruler, I combine these pencil marks on the same line. As a result, the load-bearing beams in the right place, I install a bar with a section of 50 × 50 mm behind the upper edge of the riser, so that ensure reliable fastening of the riser and tread with screws. Before I mount the next tread, I mount the next riser and again - the bar. Then I glue the tread and attach it with the help of a thread, they are perfectly aligned with each other.

First install the risers, then - tread. For each step, first a riser is attached to the stringers, and then a tread. To hold the parts together until the glue dries, staples are driven into the treads through the back sides of the risers.

Rice. Reinforced top riser. The upper riser is reinforced with a plywood pad, which is fastened with screws from the back side. To support the top tread to the bottom edge of this<<эадникз» потом добавляют деревянный брусок. Ею выступающая кромка служит удобной «ручкой» при монтаже марша.

I want to draw the attention of readers to the width of the stairs. When determining this parameter, one should remember about the amendments that will have to be made taking into account the finishing materials (dry plaster sheets or something else). Our staircase is mounted along the wall, so I provided a gap for mounting dry plaster sheets, adding a few millimeters to it so that the finished staircase would fit into the opening without problems.

First - paper clips, then - screws

Once the treads and risers are cut to the required length, you can begin assembling the stairs. As I already noted, so that later the ladder does not creak, all joints must be fastened with screws. However, at first it is advisable to use paper clips to hold the elements until the glue dries. Only then can each connection be reinforced with screws.

I start assembling the stairs from the bottom riser. By gluing and fixing this part with paper clips on the intended one paper clip - to each bowstring and two paper clips - to the riser bar. I also drive two paper clips into the tread through the plywood riser. I do this from the inside of the riser. In the same way, I glue and staple all the other risers and treads (with the exception of the top elements) with paper clips.

Rice. Screws get rid of the squeak. When the glue dries, each joint is reinforced with screws to ensure a tight connection.

I pre-fasten the upper riser with a plywood “back”, which will then be inserted into the nests of the bowstring. During the installation of the last tread and fixing it with paper clips, I hold this knot in its intended place. The reinforced top riser is one of the hallmarks of my stairs. The “back” not only stiffens the upper riser when moving and transporting the stairs, but also turns out to be a convenient “handle” when setting the march in place,

Before removing the ladder from the clamp, I fasten the treads to both stringers and reinforcing bars. To do this, I use screws with large threads and with a square head. These fasteners securely tighten the parts, which ensures the strength of the assembly.

Rice. The technological rail provides back clearance for dry plaster sheets. A rail attached to the kosour keeps the march at a given distance from the wall posts. Thanks to this, after the staircase is mounted, it will not be difficult to sheathe the walls with a stringer with dry plaster.

I complete the assembly of the upper node of the stairs by screwing a few screws through the "back" into the stringer at the cutout for the floor beam. I also attach a 15 mm thick technological rail to the stringer adjacent to the wall, which will then provide wall finishing.

I can now flip the ladder on its side to drive screws through the back of each riser into each tread in approximately 15cm increments. As a finishing touch, I add another 50x50mm block under the top tread near the plywood back.

Ladder installation. A simple straight staircase like ours can be assembled and installed within one business day. However, this time I decided to postpone the final editing operations until the next day. The fact is that the two young carpenters who worked in the kitchen were so carried away by watching me adjust the steps that they got tired more than me.

The next day, when I arrived at the workplace, two of my young friends were already waiting for me to help with the installation of the stairs. Having carefully verified the dimensions of the platform on which it was to be installed, we proceeded to the “dry” landing of the stairs (without gluing). Finally, the time has come to take on the knot of the upper riser. My partners remained below, and I moved upstairs and grabbed the upper edge of the stairs by the protruding "handle". After making sure that the ladder was in place, we removed it.

Fig. Now you can walk on it. After the ladder is installed and fastened with screws, and an additional step is laid near the lower platform, the march can already be used to move from level to level. End caps and balusters can be installed later in the finishing phase of the stairs.

For the final installation, I carefully smeared the seats with glue, after which we again hoisted the march into place. Having everything properly aligned, I drove a nail through the top riser into the lintel, securing the ladder. Now the helpers below could retire and breathe a sigh of relief. I continued the installation - I pulled the ladder to the ceiling lintel with screws, screwing them through the reinforced riser, and then moved down and fastened the stringers to the platform. Finally, I connected the kosour located on the side of the wall with racks with long screws.

A day later, I built a step leading to the lower platform. A box of OSB scraps left over from the treads, fastened with screws, was attached to the site using screws and glue. I installed wooden lining on the treads later during the installation of the railing balusters. To the delight of customers, the staircase at a modest cost turned out to be comfortable, reliable and, importantly, non-creaky.

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