Drainage at home by hand on clay soils. Do-it-yourself drainage of a site with clay soil. Cost-Effective Solutions and Drainage Options

Important Points

The geofabric serves as an additional filter that prevents large debris from entering the drainage system. It is believed that in clay soils its use is optional.

The lack of slope will lead to stagnant water and silting of the drainage line. The slope is from 1 to 7 centimeters per meter of pipeline.

The backfill layer should not be less than 15 centimeters. This rule is relevant for both gravel and sand or soil.

If you ask anyone experienced builder, builder, landscape designer about what needs to be done, first of all, on a newly acquired and not yet built-up site, then the answer will be unequivocal: the first is drainage, if there is a need for it. And this is almost always the case. Site drainage is always associated with a very large volume earthworks, so it’s better to make them right away so that later you don’t disturb the beautiful landscape that any good owners equip in their possessions.

Of course, the easiest way is to order site drainage services to specialists who will do everything quickly and correctly, with the involvement of special equipment. However, this will always come at a cost. Perhaps the owners did not plan these expenses, perhaps they will violate the entire budget planned for the construction and arrangement of the site. In the proposed article, we propose to consider the question of how to do the drainage of the site with your own hands, as this will save you a lot, and in most cases it is quite possible to do these works yourself.

Looking through the estimates and price lists related to the drainage of the site, some developers begin to doubt the appropriateness of these activities. And the main argument is that earlier, in principle, no one "bothered" much on this. With such an argument for refusing to drain the site, it is worth noting that the quality and comfort of human life have greatly improved. After all, no one wants to live in dampness or in a house with earthen floors. No one wants to see cracks in their house, on the blind areas and paths that appeared after the next cold season. All homeowners want to improve their yard or, to put it in a modern and fashionable way, to make landscape design. After the rain, no one wants to "knead the mud" in stagnant puddles. If so, then drainage is definitely needed. You can do without it only in very rare cases. In which cases we will describe a little later.

Drainage? No, I haven't heard...

Drainage is nothing more than the removal of excess water from the surface of the site or from the depth of the soil. Why is site drainage needed?

• First of all, in order to remove excess water or from the foundations of buildings and structures. The appearance of water in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base of the foundation can either provoke a movement of the soil - the house will “float”, which is typical for clay soils, or, in combination with freezing, frost heaving forces may appear that will create efforts to “squeeze” the house out of the ground.

• Drainage is designed to remove water from basements and basements. No matter how effective waterproofing is, excess water will still seep through building structures. Basements without drainage can become damp and encourage the growth of mold and other fungi. In addition, precipitation in combination with the salts present in the soil very often form aggressive chemical compounds that adversely affect building materials.

• Drainage will prevent the "squeezing out" of the septic tank at a high level of groundwater. Without drainage, a wastewater treatment system will not last long.
• Drainage in conjunction with the system and around the buildings ensures that water is quickly removed, preventing it from seeping into the underground parts of the buildings.
• Drainage prevents waterlogging of the soil. In areas equipped with well-planned and made drainage, water will not stagnate.
• Waterlogged soil can cause rotting of the root parts of plants. Drainage prevents this and creates conditions for the growth of all garden, garden and ornamental plants.
• With heavy precipitation in areas that have a slope, the fertile soil layer can be washed out by water flows. Drainage directs water flows into the drainage system, thereby preventing soil erosion.

water erosion fertile soil in the absence of drainage - a serious problem in agriculture

• If the site is surrounded by a fence built on a strip foundation, then it can “seal” the natural ways of water drainage, creating conditions for waterlogging the soil. Drainage is designed to remove excess water from the perimeter of the site.
• Drainage avoids the formation of puddles on playgrounds, sidewalks and garden paths.

When Drainage Is Necessary Anyway

Consider those cases when drainage is needed in any case:

• If the site is located on a flat area, then drainage is mandatory, since when a large amount of precipitation falls or snow melts, the water will simply have nowhere to go. According to the laws of physics, water always goes under the influence of gravity to a lower place, and on a flat landscape it will intensively soak the soil in a downward direction, which can lead to waterlogging. So, from a drainage point of view, it is beneficial for the site to have a slight slope.
• If the site is located in a lowland, then its drainage is definitely needed, since water will drain from higher places to those below.
• Strongly sloping sites also require drainage, as rapidly draining water will erode the top fertile soil layers. It is better to direct these flows into drainage channels or pipes. Then the main part of the water will go through them, preventing the soil layer from washing out.
• If the site is dominated by clay and heavy loamy soils, then after precipitation or snow melt, water will often stagnate on them. Such soils prevent its penetration into the deep layers. Therefore, drainage is essential.
• If the groundwater level (GWL) in the area is less than 1 meter, then drainage is indispensable.

• If the buildings on the site have a heavily buried foundation, then it is likely that its sole will be in the zone of seasonal groundwater rise. Therefore, it is necessary to plan drainage at the stage of foundation work.
• If a significant part of the site area is covered with artificial coverings made of concrete, paving stones or paving slabs, and if there are lawns equipped with an automatic irrigation system, then drainage is also needed.

From this impressive list, it becomes clear that drainage to one degree or another is necessary in most cases. But before you plan and do it, you need to study the site.

Studying the site for relief, soil type and groundwater level

Each site is individual in terms of relief, soil composition and groundwater level. Even two sites located nearby can be very different from each other, although there will still be a lot in common between them. Modern construction requirements suggest that the design of a house should begin only after geological and geodetic surveys have been carried out with the preparation of special reports that contain a lot of data, most of which are understandable only to specialists. If they are “translated” into the language of ordinary citizens who do not have education in the field of geology, hydrogeology and geodesy, then they can be listed as follows:

• Topographic survey of the area where it is supposed. The photographs must show the cadastral boundaries of the site.
• A characteristic of the relief, which should indicate what type of relief is present on the site (wavy or flat). If there are slopes, then their presence and direction are indicated, it is in their direction that water will flow. Attached is a topographic plan of the site indicating the contour lines of the relief.

• Characteristics of the soil, what kind of soil it is and at what depth it lies on the site. To do this, specialists drill exploratory wells in different places a site where samples are taken, which are then examined in the laboratory.
• Physical and chemical properties of the soil. Its ability to be load-bearing for the planned house, as well as soil in combination with water, will affect concrete, metal and other building materials.
• The presence and depth of groundwater, their seasonal fluctuations, taking into account exploration, archival and analytical data. It is also indicated in which soils water can appear and how they will affect the planned building structures.

• The degree of heaving of soils, the possibility of landslides, subsidence, flooding and swelling.

The result of all these studies should be recommendations on the design and depth of the foundation, the degree of waterproofing, insulation, protection from aggressive chemical compounds, drainage. It happens that on an impeccable-looking site, experts, in general, will not allow you to build such a house as the owners intended. For example, a house with a basement was planned, and a high GWL forces specialists to recommend not to do this, therefore, instead of the originally planned strip foundation with a basement, they will recommend a pile without underground facilities. There is no reason not to trust both these studies and specialists, since they have indisputable tools in their hands - measurements, drilling, laboratory experiments, statistics and calculations.

Of course, geological and geodetic surveys are not done free of charge, and they are done at the expense of the developer and they are mandatory on a new site. This fact is often the subject of indignation of some owners, but it should be understood that this procedure will help save a lot of money during the construction and further operation of the house, as well as maintaining the site in good condition. Therefore, this seemingly unnecessary and expensive bureaucracy is necessary and very useful.

If the site is purchased with existing buildings that have been in operation for at least a few years, then you can also order geological and geodetic surveys, but you can do without them, and learn about groundwater, its seasonal rise and unpleasant impact on human life on other grounds. Of course, this will be with a certain degree of risk, but in most cases it works. What you should pay attention to?

• First of all, this is communication with the former owners of the site. It is clear that it is not always in their interests to talk in detail about problems with flooding, but, nevertheless, you can always find out if any drainage measures have been taken. This will not be hidden for anything.
• Inspection of the basement can also tell a lot about something. Regardless of whether cosmetic repairs were made there. If there is an increased level of humidity in the premises, then this will be immediately felt.

• Getting to know your neighbors and interviewing them can be much more informative than talking to the former owners of the site and the house.
• If there are wells or wells on your site and neighboring ones, then the water level in them will eloquently report on the GWL. Moreover, it is desirable to observe how the level changes in different seasons. Theoretically, the maximum water should rise in the spring after the snow has melted. In summer, if there were dry periods, the groundwater level should fall.
• Plants growing on the site can also “tell” a lot to the owner. The presence of plants such as cattail, reeds, sedge, horse sorrel, nettle, hemlock, foxglove indicate that groundwater is at a level of no more than 2.5-3 meters. If even during a drought these plants continue their rapid growth, then this once again indicates the proximity of water. If licorice or wormwood grow on the site, then this is evidence that the water is at a safe depth.

• Some sources speak of an old way of determining the level of groundwater, which was used by our ancestors before building a house. To do this, a piece of turf was removed in the area of ​​interest and a shallow hole was dug, on the bottom of which a piece of wool was laid, an egg was placed on it, and covered with an inverted clay pot and the removed turf. After dawn and sunrise, the pot was removed and watched as the dew fell. If the egg and wool are in dew, then the water is shallow. If dew fell only on wool, then there is water, but it is at a safe depth. If both the egg and the wool are dry, then the water is very deep. It may seem that this method is akin to quackery or shamanism, but in fact it has an absolutely correct explanation, from the point of view of science.
• The growth of bright grass on the site even during a drought, as well as the appearance of fog in the evening hours, indicates the proximity of groundwater.
• The best way to independently determine the groundwater level at the site is to drill test wells. To do this, you can use a regular garden drill with extension cords. Drilling is best done during the highest rise of water, that is, in the spring after the snow melts. First of all, wells should be made at the construction site of a house or an existing building. The well should be drilled to the depth of the foundation plus 50 cm. If water begins to appear in the well immediately or after 1-2 days, this indicates that drainage measures are mandatory.

Beginner's Geologist's Kit - Garden Drill with Extension

• If, after rain, puddles stagnate on the site, then this may indicate the proximity of groundwater, as well as the fact that the soil is clayey or heavy loamy, which prevents the water from going deep into the ground. In this case, drainage is also necessary. It will also be very useful to update the fertile soil to a lighter one, then there will be no problems with growing most garden and garden plants.

Even a very high level of groundwater in the area, although it is a big problem, is a problem that can be completely solved with the help of well-calculated and well-executed drainage. Let's give a good example - more than half of the territory of Holland lies below sea level, including the capital - the famous Amsterdam. The groundwater level in this country can be at a depth of several centimeters. Those who have been to Holland noticed that after rain there are puddles that do not soak into the ground, because they simply have nowhere to soak. Nevertheless, in this cozy country, the issue of draining the land is being solved with the help of a set of measures: dams, dams, polders, locks, canals. The Netherlands even has a special department - Watershap, which deals with flood protection. The abundance of many windmills in this country does not at all mean that they grind grain. Most mills are pumping water.

We do not call for a special purchase of a site with a high level of groundwater, on the contrary, this should be avoided by all possible means. And the example of Holland was given only so that readers could understand that there is a solution to any problem with groundwater. Moreover, in most of the territory former USSR settlements and holiday villages are located in areas where GWL are within acceptable limits, and you can cope with seasonal rises on your own.

Types of drainage systems

There are a great variety of drainage systems and their varieties. Moreover, in different sources, their classification systems may differ from each other. We will try to talk about the simplest, from a technical point of view, drainage systems, but at the same time effective ones that will help solve the problem of removing excess water from the site. Another argument in favor of simplicity is that the fewer elements any system has and the more time it can do without human intervention, the more reliable it will be.

Surface drainage

This type of drainage is the simplest, but, nevertheless, quite effective. It is intended mainly for the removal of water coming in the form of precipitation or snowmelt, as well as for the removal of excess water during any technological processes, for example, when washing cars or garden paths. Surface drainage is done in any case around buildings or other structures, sites, places of exit from the garage or yard. Surface drainage is of two main types:

• Point drainage designed to collect and drain water from a specific place. This type of drainage is also called local drainage. The main locations for point drainage are under roof gutters, in pits in front of doors and garage doors, and at the locations of irrigation taps. And also point drainage, in addition to its direct purpose, can complement another type of surface drainage system.

Rain inlet - the main element of point surface drainage

• Linear drainage needed to remove water from a larger area compared to a point. It is a collection trays and channels, mounted with a slope, equipped with various elements: sand traps (sand traps), protective grilles , performing a filtering, protective and decorative function. Trays and channels can be made from the most different materials. First of all, it is plastic in the form of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polypropylene (PP), low-pressure polyethylene (HDPE). And also materials such as concrete or polymer concrete are widely used. Grates are most often used plastic, but in those areas where increased load is expected, stainless steel or even cast iron products can be used. Works on the organization of linear drainage require concrete preparation grounds.

Obviously, any good surface drainage system almost always combines elements of point and linear. And all of them are combined into a common drainage system, which may also include another subsystem, which we will consider in the next section of our article.

deep drainage

In most cases, surface drainage alone cannot be dispensed with. To qualitatively solve the problem, we need a different type of drainage - deep, which is a system of special drainage pipes (drains) , laid in those places where it is required to lower the level of groundwater or divert water from the protected area. Drains are laid with a slope to the side collector, well , artificial or natural reservoir on the site or beyond. Naturally, they are laid below the level of the base of the foundation of the protected building or along the perimeter of the site at a depth of 0.8-1.5 meters to lower the groundwater level to non-critical values. Drains can also be laid in the middle of the site with a certain interval, which is calculated by experts. Typically, the interval between the pipes is 10-20 meters, and they are laid in the form of a Christmas tree, directed to the main outlet pipe-collector. It all depends on the level of groundwater and their quantity.

When laying drains in trenches, it is imperative to use all the features of the site relief. Water will always move from a higher place to a lower one, so the drains are laid in the same way. It is much more difficult if the site is absolutely flat, then desired slope pipes are attached by giving a certain level to the bottom of the trenches. It is customary to make a slope of 2 cm per 1 meter of pipe for clay and loamy soils and 3 cm per 1 meter for sandy soils. Obviously, with sufficiently long drains, it will be difficult to maintain the desired slope on a flat area, since the level difference will already be 20 or 30 cm per 10 meters of the pipe, so the necessary measure is the organization of several drainage wells that will be able to receive the required volume of water.

It should be noted that even with a smaller slope, water, even at 1 cm per 1 meter or less, will still, obeying the laws of physics, try to go below the level, but the flow rate will be less, and this can contribute to silting and clogging of drains. And any owner who has laid sewer or drainage pipes at least once in his life knows that it is much more difficult to maintain a very small slope than a larger one. Therefore, you should not be “embarrassed” in this matter and boldly set a slope of 3, 4 and even 5 cm per meter of the drainage pipe, if the length and the planned difference in the depth of the trench allow.

Drainage wells are one of the most important components of deep drainage. They can be of three main types:

• Rotary wells – suit where the drains make a turn or there is a connection of several elements. These elements are needed for the revision and cleaning of the drainage system, which must be done periodically. They can be as small in diameter, which will only allow cleaning and washing with a jet of water under pressure, but they can also be wide, which provide human access.

• Water intake wells - their purpose is absolutely clear from their name. In those areas where it is not possible to divert water into the depths or beyond, it becomes necessary to collect water. These wells are designed for just that. Previously, they were mainly a structure made of cast-in-place concrete, concrete rings or bricks plastered with cement mortar. Now most commonly used plastic containers of various volumes, which are protected from clogging or silting with geotextiles and sprinkling of crushed stone or gravel. Water collected in a water intake well can be pumped out of the site using special submersible drainage pumps, can be pumped out and taken out by tankers, or can be settled in a well or pool for further irrigation.

• absorption wells designed to drain water in the event that the terrain of the site does not allow moisture to be removed beyond its limits, but the underlying soil layers have good absorbency. These soils include sandy and sandy loam. Such wells are made of large diameters (about 1.5 meters) and depths (at least 2 meters). The well is filled with filter material in the form of sand, sand-gravel mixture, crushed stone, gravel, broken brick or slag. To prevent the ingress of eroded fertile soil or various blockages from above, the well is also covered with fertile soil. Naturally, the side walls and the bottom are protected by sprinkling. Water, falling into such a well, is filtered by its contents and goes deep into sandy or sandy loamy soils. The ability of such wells to remove water from the site may be limited, so they are arranged when the expected throughput should not exceed 1-1.5 m 3 per day.

Of the drainage systems, the main and most important is deep drainage, since it is it that provides the necessary water regime for both the site and all the buildings located on it. Any mistake in the design and installation of deep drainage can lead to very unpleasant consequences, which can lead to the death of plants, flooding of basements, destruction of house foundations, and uneven drainage of the site. That is why it is recommended not to neglect geological and geodetic studies and ordering a drainage system project from specialists. If it is possible to correct flaws in surface drainage without a strong violation of the landscape of the site, then with deep drainage everything is much more serious, the price of a mistake is too high.

Overview of accessories for drainage systems

For self-execution of the drainage of the site and the buildings located on it, you need to find out what components will be required for this. Of the widest selection of them, we have tried to show the most used at the present time. If earlier the market was dominated by Western manufacturers, who, as monopolists, dictated high prices for their products, now a sufficient number of domestic enterprises offer their products, which are in no way inferior in quality.

Details for surface drainage

For point and linear surface drainage, the following parts can be used:

Image	Name, manufacturer	Purpose and description
	Tray drainage concrete 1000*140*125 mm with a steel stamped galvanized lattice. Production - Russia.	Designed for surface water drainage. Capacity 4.18 l/s, able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	880 rub.
	Concrete drainage tray with cast-iron grate, dimensions 1000*140*125 mm. Production - Russia.	The purpose and throughput are the same as in the previous example. Able to withstand loads up to 25 tons (C250).	1480 rub.
	Concrete drainage tray with steel galvanized mesh grid, dimensions 1000*140*125 mm. Production - Russia.	The purpose and throughput are the same. Able to withstand loads up to 12.5 tons (B125).	1610 rub.
	Polymer concrete drainage tray 1000*140*70 mm with plastic grating. Production - Russia.	The purpose is the same, the throughput is 1.9 l / s. Able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15). The material combines the advantages of plastic and concrete.	820 rub.
	Polymer concrete drainage tray 1000*140*70 mm with cast-iron grate. Production - Russia.	throughput is the same. Able to withstand up to 25 tons of load (C250).	1420 rub.
	Polymer concrete drainage tray 1000*140*70 mm with steel mesh grating. Production - Russia.	throughput is the same. Able to withstand up to 12.5 tons of load (B125).	1550 rub.
	Tray plastic drainage 1000*145*60 mm with a galvanized stamped lattice. Production - Russia.	Made from frost-resistant polypropylene. Throughput 1.8 l/sec. Able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	760 rub.
	Plastic drainage tray 1000*145*60 mm with cast-iron grate. Production - Russia.	Throughput 1.8 l/sec. Able to withstand loads up to 25 tons (C250).	1360 rub.
	Completed plastic rainwater inlet (siphon-partitions 2 pcs., Waste basket - 1 pc.). Size 300*300*300 mm. With plastic grid. Production - Russia.	Designed for point drainage of water flowing from the roof through the downpipe, and can also be used to collect water under yard, garden watering taps. Can be connected to fittings with diameters of 75, 110, 160 mm. Removable basket provides quick cleaning. Withstands loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	For a set together with siphon partitions, a waste basket and a plastic grate - 1000 rubles.
	Completed plastic rainwater inlet (siphon-partitions 2 pcs., Waste basket - 1 pc.). Size 300*300*300 mm. With cast-iron grate "Snowflake". Production - Russia.	The purpose is similar to the previous one. Withstands loads up to 25 tons (C250).	For a set together with siphon partitions, a waste basket and a cast-iron grate - 1550 rubles.
	Sand trap - plastic with a galvanized steel grate. Dimensions 500*116*320 mm.	Designed to collect dirt and debris in surface linear drainage systems. It is installed at the end of the line of gutters (trays) and later it joins the pipes of the storm sewer system with a diameter of 110 mm. Able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	For a set together with gratings 975 rubles.

In the table, we deliberately showed trays and storm water inlets Russian production, made of different materials and having a different configuration. It is also worth noting that the trays have different width and depth, and in accordance with this, their throughput is also not the same. There are a lot of options for the materials from which they are made and sizes, there is no need to give them all, since it depends on many factors: the required throughput, the expected load on the soil, the specific scheme for implementing the drainage system. That is why it is best to entrust the calculations of the drainage system to specialists who will calculate both the required size and quantity, and select the components.

There was absolutely no need to talk about possible accessories for drainage trays, storm water inlets and sand traps in the table, since in each individual case they will be different. When buying, if there is a system project, the seller will always tell you the ones you need. They can be end caps for trays, mounts for gratings, various corner and transition elements, reinforcing profiles, and others.

A few words should be said about sand traps and storm water inlets. If the surface linear drainage around the house is implemented with storm water inlets in the corners (and this is usually done), then sand traps will not be required. Rain inlets with siphon partitions and waste baskets do an excellent job with their role. If the linear drainage does not have storm water inlets and goes into the sewer drainage pipe, then a sand trap is required. That is, any transition from drainage trays to pipes must be done either with the help of a storm inlet or a sand trap. Only this way and not otherwise! This is done so that sand and various heavy debris do not get into the pipes, as this can lead to their rapid wear, and both they and the drainage wells will become clogged over time. It is hard to disagree that it is easier to periodically remove and wash the baskets while on the surface than to go down into the wells.

Surface drainage also includes wells and pipes, but they will be discussed in the next section, since, in principle, they are the same for both types of systems.

Details for deep drainage

Deep drainage is more complex engineering system requiring more details. In the table we present only the main ones, since all their diversity will take up a lot of space and attention of our readers. If desired, it will not be difficult to find catalogs of manufacturers of these systems, select the necessary parts and accessories for them.

Image	Name and manufacturer	Purpose and description	Approximate price (as of October 2016)
	Drainage pipe with a diameter of 63 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	Designed to remove excess moisture from foundations and sites. Wrapped with geotextile to prevent clogging of pores with soil, sand, which prevents clogging and silting. They have a full (circular) perforation. Made from low pressure polyethylene (HDPE). Rigidity class SN-4. Depth of laying up to 4 m.	For 1 r.p. 48 rub.
	Drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 r.p. 60 rub.
	Drainage pipe with a diameter of 160 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 r.p. 115 rub.
	Drainage pipe with a diameter of 200 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 r.p. 190 rub.
	Single-wall corrugated drainage pipes made of HDPE with a coconut coir filter with diameters of 90, 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of manufacture - Russia.	Designed to remove excess moisture from foundations and sites on clay and peat soils. Coconut coir has increased reclamation and strength compared to geotextiles. They have circular perforations. Rigidity class SN-4. Depth of laying up to 4 m.	219, 310, 744, 1074 rubles. for 1 r.m. (depending on diameter).
	Two-layer drainage pipes with Typar SF-27 geotextile filter. The outer layer of HDPE is corrugated, the inner layer of HDPE is smooth. Diameters 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Are intended for removal of excess moisture from the bases and sites on all types of soils. They have a full (circular) perforation. The outer layer protects against mechanical stress, and the inner layer allows, due to its smooth surface remove more water. The two-layer design has a stiffness class of SN-6 and allows you to lay pipes at a depth of up to 6 meters.	160, 240, 385 rubles. for 1 r.m. (depending on diameter).
	PVC pipes for sewerage are smooth with a socket with an outer diameter of 110, 125, 160, 200 mm, length 1061, 1072, 1086, 1106 mm, respectively. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed for organizing an external sewer system, as well as storm sewer or drainage systems. They have a stiffness class of SN-4, which allows them to be laid at a depth of up to 4 meters.	180, 305, 270, 490 rubles. for pipes: 110*1061 mm, 125*1072 mm, 160*1086 mm, 200*1106 mm respectively.
	Well shafts with a diameter of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm from HDPE. Country of origin - Russia.	Are intended for creation of drainage wells (rotary, water intake, absorption). Have two-layer construction. Ring stiffness SN-4. The maximum length is 6 meters.	950, 1650, 3700, 7400 rubles for wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm, respectively.
	Bottom-plug of wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm from HDPE. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed to create drainage wells: rotary or water intake.	940, 1560, 4140, 7100 for wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm, respectively.
	Inserts into the well in place with diameters of 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed for insertion into a well at any level of sewer or drainage pipes of appropriate diameters.	350, 750, 2750 rubles for inserts with diameters of 110, 160, 200 mm, respectively.
	Hatch polymer concrete for drainage wells with a diameter of 340 mm. Country of origin - Russia.		500 rub.
	Hatch polymer concrete for drainage wells with a diameter of 460 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	It is intended for installation on drainage wells. Withstands loads up to 1.5 tons.	850 rub.
	Polyester geotextile with a density of 100 g/m². Country of origin - Russia.	Used to create drainage systems. It is not subject to rotting, influence of a mold, rodents and insects. Roll length from 1 to 6 m.	20 rub. for 1 m².

The presented table shows that the cost of even Russian-made parts for drainage systems can hardly be called cheap. But the effect of their use will delight the owners of the site for at least 50 years. It is about this service life that the manufacturer claims. Considering that the material for manufacturing drainage parts is absolutely inert with respect to all substances found in nature, it can be assumed that the service life will be much longer than stated.

We deliberately did not indicate the previously widely used asbestos-cement or ceramic pipes in the table, since, in addition to high price and difficulties in transportation and installation, they will not bring anything. This is yesterday's age.

To create drainage systems, there are still a lot of components from various manufacturers. These include tray parts, which can be throughput, connecting, prefabricated and dead-end. They are designed to connect drainage pipes various diameters with wells. They provide connections for drainage pipes at various angles.

With all the obvious advantages of tray parts with pipe sockets, their price is very high. For example, the part shown in the figure above costs 7 thousand rubles. Therefore, in most cases, inserts into the well are used, as indicated in the table. Another advantage of tie-ins is that they can be done at any level and at any angle to each other.

In addition to those parts for drainage systems that are indicated in the table, there are many others that are selected by calculation and during installation on site. These may include various cuffs and O-rings, couplings, tees and crosses, check valves for drainage and sewer pipes, eccentric transitions and necks, bends, plugs and much more. Them the right choice should be dealt with, first of all, during the design, and then make adjustments during installation.

Video: How to choose a drainage pipe

Video: Drainage wells

If readers find articles on drainage on the Internet that say that it is easy to make drainage with your own hands, then we advise you to immediately close this article without reading it. Making drainage with your own hands is not an easy task. But, the main thing is that it is possible if you do everything consistently and correctly.

Site drainage design

The drainage system is a complex engineering object that requires an appropriate attitude. Therefore, we recommend that our readers order the design of the drainage of the site from professionals who will take into account absolutely everything: the relief of the site, the existing (or planned) buildings, the composition of the soil, and the depth of the GWL, and other factors. After the design, the customer will have a set of documents in his hands, which includes:

• Site plan with its relief.
• A scheme for laying pipes for wall or ring drainage, indicating the section and type of pipes, the depth of occurrence, the required slopes, and the location of the wells.
• The drainage scheme of the site, also indicating the depth of the trenches, types of pipes, slopes, the distance between adjacent drains, the location of rotary or water intake wells.

It will be difficult to independently make a detailed design of the drainage system without knowledge and experience. That is why you should turn to professionals

• Scheme of surface point and linear drainage indicating the size of trays, sand traps, storm water inlets, used sewer pipes, location of water intake wells.
• Transverse dimensions of trenches for near-wall and deep drainage, indicating the depth, material and thickness of the backfill, type of geotextile used.
• Calculation necessary components and materials.
• An explanatory note to the project describing the entire drainage system and the technology for performing work.

The project of the drainage system of the site is much lower than the architectural one, so we once again strongly advise you to contact the specialists. This minimizes the likelihood of errors during self-arrangement of drainage.

Wall drainage equipment at home

To protect the foundations of houses from the effects of groundwater, the so-called wall drainage is made, which is located around the entire house on its outer side at some distance from the base of the foundation. usually it is 0.3-0.5 m, but in any case not more than 1 meter. Wall drainage is done even at the stage of building a house, along with measures for warming and waterproofing the foundation. When is this type of drainage necessary anyway?

• When the house has a basement.

• When the buried parts of the foundation are at a distance of no more than 0.5 meters above the groundwater level.
• When a house is built on clay or loamy soils.

All modern projects houses almost always provide wall drainage. An exception can only be those cases when the foundation is laid on sandy soils that do not freeze through more than 80 cm.

A typical wall drainage design is shown in the figure.

At some distance from the base of the foundation, approximately 30 cm below its level, a leveling layer of sand 10 cm is made, on which a geotextile membrane with a density of at least 150 g / m² is laid, on which a layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm with a thickness of at least 10 cm is poured. Instead of crushed stone, washed gravel may well be used. Crushed stone is better to use granite, but not limestone, since the latter tends to gradually erode with water. A drainage pipe wrapped with geotextile is laid on a crushed stone pillow. The pipes are given the desired slope - at least 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the pipe.

In the places where the pipe turns, inspection and inspection wells are necessarily made. The rules allow them to be done through one turn, but practice suggests that it is better not to save on this and put them on every turn. The slope of the pipes is done in one direction (in the figure from point K1, through points K2 and K3, to point K4). In this case, it is necessary to take into account the terrain. It is assumed that point K1 is at the highest point, and K4 at the lowest.

Drains are inserted into wells not from the very foundation, but with an indent of at least 20 cm from the bottom. Then the small debris or silt that has fallen will not linger in the pipes, but will settle in the well. In the future, when revising the system, you can wash out the silted bottom with a strong jet of water, which will carry away everything unnecessary. If the soil in the area where the wells are located has a good absorbing capacity, then the bottom is not made. In all other cases, it is better to equip the wells with a bottom.

A layer of crushed stone or washed gravel with a thickness of at least 20 cm is again poured over the drains, and then it is wrapped around with the previously laid geotextile membrane. On top of such a “wrapped” structure made of a drainage pipe and rubble, a backfill of sand is made, and on top, after it is compacted, a blind area of ​​​​the building is already organized, which is also called upon, but already in the system of surface linear drainage. Even if atmospheric water enters from outer side foundation, then, having passed through the sand, it will fall into the drains and eventually merge into the main collector well, which can be equipped with a pump. If the relief of the site allows, then an overflow is made from the collector well without a pump, which removes water outside into a gutter, an artificial or natural reservoir, or a storm sewer system. Under no circumstances should drainage be connected to a conventional sewer system.

If groundwater begins to "support" from below, then they, first of all, impregnate the sandy preparation and crushed stone in which the drains are located. The speed of water movement along the drains is higher than in the ground, so the water is quickly removed and drained into a collector well, which is laid lower than the drains. It turns out that inside a closed circuit of drainage pipes, water simply cannot rise above the level of the drains, which means that the base of the foundation and the floor in the basement will be dry.

Such a wall drainage scheme is very often used and works very effectively. But it has a significant drawback. This is backfilling of the entire sinus between the foundation and the edge of the pit with sand. Given the considerable volume of the sinus, you will have to pay a tidy sum for this filling. But there is a beautiful way out of this situation. In order not to backfill with sand, you can use a special profiled geomembrane, which is a sheet of HDPE or PVD with various additives, which has a relief surface in the form of small truncated cones. When underground part the foundation is pasted over with such a membrane, then it performs two main functions.

• The geomembrane itself is an excellent waterproofing agent. It does not allow moisture to penetrate to the walls of the underground foundation structure.
• The relief surface of the membrane ensures that the water that appears on it flows down freely, where it is “intercepted” by the laid drains.

The design of wall drainage using a geomembrane is shown in the following figure.

On the outer wall of the foundation, after the measures and insulation (if necessary), the geomembrane is glued or mechanically attached with the relief part (pimples) outward. A geotextile fabric with a density of 150-200 g / m² is fixed on top of it, which will prevent soil particles from clogging the relief part of the geomembrane. Further organization of drainage is usually carried out: a drain is placed on a layer of sand, covered with crushed stone and wrapped with geotextile. Only backfilling of the sinuses is not done with sand or gravel, but with ordinary soil excavated when digging a pit or clay, which is much cheaper.

Drainage of water, "supporting" the foundation from below, proceeds as in the previous case. But water that has entered the wall from the outside through moistened soil or penetrated into the gap between the foundation and the soil will follow the path of least resistance: seep through the geotextile, flow freely along the relief surface of the geomembrane, pass through the rubble and fall into the drain. Foundations protected in this way will not be threatened for a minimum of 30-50 years. In the basement floors of such houses it will always be dry.

Consider the main stages of creating a wall drainage system at home.

Image	Description of actions
	After the measures for the construction of the foundation, its primary coating, and then roll waterproofing and insulation, on the outer wall of the foundation, including its sole, using a special mastic that does not corrode polystyrene foam, the geomembrane is glued with the relief part outward. The upper part of the membrane should protrude beyond the level of the future backfill by at least 20 cm, and the lower part should reach the very bottom of the foundation, including the sole.
	The joints of most geomembranes have a special lock, which is "snapped" by overlapping one sheet over another, and then tapping with a rubber mallet.
	A geotextile fabric with a density of 150-200 g/m² is attached over the geomembrane. It is better to use not needle-punched, but thermally bonded geotextiles, as it is less prone to clogging. For fixing, dish-shaped dowels are used. The fixing step of the dowels is no more than 1 m horizontally and no more than 2 m vertically. The overlap of adjacent geotextile sheets on each other is at least 10-15 cm. Dish-shaped dowels should fall at the junction.
	In the upper part of the geomembrane and geotextile, it is recommended to use a special mounting strip, which will press both layers to the foundation structure.
	The bottom of the pit with outside the foundation is cleaned to the required level. The level can be controlled with a theodolite with a measuring bar, laser level and an improvised wooden plank with marked marks, stretched and exposed with the help of a hydraulic level, a stretched cord. You can also “beat off” a horizontal line on the wall and measure the depth with a tape measure.
	Washed sand is poured at the bottom with a layer of at least 10 cm, which is wetted with water and rammed mechanically or manually to a state until there is practically no trace left when walking.
	In the designated places, inspection and inspection wells are installed. To do this, it is enough to use mines with a diameter of 340 or 460 mm. Having measured the desired length, they can be cut either with a conventional hacksaw for wood, or with an electric jigsaw, or with a reciprocating saw. Initially, the wells must be cut 20-30 cm more than the estimated length, and later, when designing the landscape, already fit it under it.
	Bottoms are installed on the wells. To do this, in single-layer wells (for example, Wavin), a rubber cuff is placed in the edge of the body, then it is lubricated soapy water and plant the bottom. It must go in with force.
	In Russian-made two-layer wells, before installing the cuff, it is necessary to cut a strip of the inner layer with a knife, and then do the same as in the previous case.
	Wells are installed in their intended places. Sites for their installation are compacted and leveled. On their side surfaces, marks are made for the entrance and exit of the centers of drains (taking into account slopes of 2 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe). We remind you that the entrances and exits of drains must be at least 20 cm from the bottom.
	For the convenience of inserting couplings, it is better to place the wells horizontally and with a crown corresponding to the coupling center drill make holes. In the absence of a crown, you can make holes with a jigsaw, but this requires certain skills.
	After that, the edges are cleaned of burrs with a knife or brush.
	The outer rubber cuff of the coupling is placed inside the hole. It should equally go inside the well and stay outside (about 2 cm each).
	The inner surface of the rubber cuff of the coupling is lubricated with soapy water, and then the plastic part is inserted until it stops. The joints of the rubber part of the coupling to the well can be smeared with a waterproof sealant.
	Wells are installed in their places and aligned vertically. Geotextiles are laid out on a sand cushion. Granite crushed stone of a fraction of 5-20 mm or washed gravel with a layer of at least 10 cm is poured on it. In this case, the necessary slopes of the drainage pipes are taken into account. Crushed stone is leveled and compacted.
	Perforated drainage pipes are measured and cut right size. Pipes are inserted into couplings cut into wells after lubricating the cuff with soapy water. Their slope is checked.
	A layer of crushed stone or gravel of at least 20 cm is poured on top of the drains. Then the edges of the geotextile fabric are wrapped on top of each other and a 20 cm layer of sand is sprinkled on top.
	In the intended place, a pit is dug for the collector well of the drainage system. The level of its occurrence, of course, must be below the lowest drain in order to receive water from the wall drainage. To this pit, a trench is dug from the lower level of the inspection and inspection well for laying a sewer pipe.
	Shafts with diameters of 460, 695 and even 930 mm can be used as a collector well. It can also be equipped with a prefabricated well from reinforced concrete rings. Inserting a sewer pipe into a receiving collector well is done in exactly the same way as drains.
	The sewer pipe leading from the lower wall drainage well to the collector well is laid on sand cushion 10 cm and sprinkled with sand at least 10 cm thick on top. After compacting the sand, the trench is covered with soil.
	The system is checked for functionality. To do this, water is poured into the topmost well in terms of level. After filling the bottom, water should begin to flow through the drains into other wells and, after filling their bottoms, eventually flow into the collector well. There should be no reverse current.
	After checking the performance of the sinuses between the edge of the pit, they are covered with soil. It is preferable to use quarry clay for this, which will create a waterproof lock around the foundation.
	The wells are covered with lids to prevent clogging. Final pruning and installation of covers should be done along with landscaping.

The collection well can be equipped with a check valve, which, even if it is overflowing, will not allow water to flow back into the drains. And also in the well can be automatic. When the GWL rises to critical values, water will collect in the well. The pump is set up so that when a certain level is exceeded in the well, it will turn on and pump water out of the site or into other containers or reservoirs. Thus, the GWL in the foundation area will always be lower than the laid drains.

It happens that one collector well is used for the wall drainage system and the surface one. Experts do not recommend doing this, since during intensive snowmelt or heavy rains in a short time, a very large amount of water will be collected, which will only interfere with inspecting the GWL in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation. Water from precipitation and melted snow is best collected in individual containers and use for irrigation. In case of overflow of storm wells, water from them can be pumped in the same way to another place with a drainage pump.

Video: Wall drainage at home

Ring drainage equipment at home

Annular drainage, unlike wall drainage, is located not close to the foundation structure, but at some distance from it: from 2 to 10 meters or more. In what cases is ring drainage arranged?

• If the house has already been built and any intervention in the foundation structure is undesirable.
• If the house does not have a basement.
• If the house or group of buildings is built on sandy or sandy loamy soils that have good water permeability.
• If other types of drainage cannot cope with the seasonal rise of groundwater.

Regardless of the fact that ring drainage is much simpler in practical implementation, it should be treated more seriously than wall drainage. Why?

• A very important characteristic is the depth of the drains. In any case, the laying depth must be greater than the depth of the base of the foundation or the level of the basement floor.
• The distance from the foundation to the drain is also an important characteristic. The more sandy the soil, the greater the distance should be. And vice versa - the more clay soils, the closer the drains can be located to the foundation.
• When calculating the ring foundation, the level of groundwater, its seasonal fluctuations and the direction of their inflow are also taken into account.

Based on the foregoing, we can safely say that it is better to entrust the calculation of the annular drainage to specialists. It would seem that the closer the drain is to the house and the deeper it is laid, the better it will be for the protected structure. It turns out not! Any drainage changes the hydrogeological situation in the foundation area, which is far from always good. The task of drainage is not to completely drain the site, but to lower the GWL to such values ​​that will not interfere with human and plant life. Drainage is a kind of contract with the forces of Mother Nature, and not an attempt to "rewrite" existing laws.

One of the options for the device of the annular drainage system is shown in the figure.

It can be seen that around the house, already outside the blind area, a trench was dug to such a depth that top part the drainage pipe lay below the lowest point of the foundation by 30-50 cm. The trench is lined with geotextile and the pipe itself is also in a shell of it. The minimum underlying layer of crushed stone should be at least 10 cm. The minimum slope of drains with a diameter of 110-200 mm is 2 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe. The figure shows that the entire trench is covered with rubble. This is quite acceptable and does not contradict anything but common sense, in terms of excessive spending.

The diagram shows that the inspection and control wells are installed through one turn, which is quite acceptable if the drainage pipe is laid in one piece, without any fittings. But still it is better to do them at every turn. This will greatly facilitate the maintenance of the drainage system over time.

An annular drainage system can perfectly "get along" with a system of surface point and linear drainage. In one trench, drains can be laid at the lower level, and sewer pipes leading from trays and storm water inlets to the well for collecting rain and melt water can be laid next to them or on top in a layer of sand. If the path of both one and the other leads to one collector catchment well, then this is generally wonderful, the number of earthworks is reduced significantly. Although, we recall that we recommended collecting these waters separately. They can be collected together in only one case - if all water from precipitation and extracted from the soil is removed (naturally or forcibly) from the site into a collective storm sewer system, gutter or reservoir.

When organizing ring drainage, a trench is first dug out on estimated depth. The width of the trench in the area of ​​​​its bottom should be at least 40 cm; a certain slope is immediately given to the bottom of the trench, the control of which is most convenient to carry out with a theodolite, and in its absence, a horizontally stretched cord and a measuring rod from improvised means will help.

Washed sand is poured at the bottom with a layer of at least 10 cm, which is carefully rammed. It is obvious that it is impossible to do this in a narrow trench in a mechanized way, therefore, a manual rammer is used.

Installation of wells, tie-in couplings, adding crushed granite or gravel, laying and connecting drains is done in exactly the same way as when organizing wall drainage, so there is no point in repeating. The difference is that with ring drainage, it is better to fill the trench after crushed stone and geotextiles not with soil, but with sand. Only the upper fertile layer of soil is poured, about 10-15 cm. Then, already with the landscape equipment of the site, the places for laying drains are taken into account and trees or shrubs with a powerful root system are not planted in these places.

Video: Drainage around the house

Surface point and line drainage equipment

As in all cases, a surface drainage system can only be successfully installed if there is a project or at least a self-made plan. On this plan, it is necessary to take into account everything - from water intake points to a tank where rain and melt water will merge. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the slopes of pipelines and trays, the direction of movement along the trays.

The surface drainage system can be installed with an existing blind area, paths made of paving slabs or paving stones. It is possible that one of their parts will have to be intervened, but this still does not require complete dismantling. Consider an example of the installation of a surface drainage system using the example of polymer concrete trays and sand traps (sand traps) and sewer pipes.

To carry out the work you will need a very simple set of tools:

• Shovels shovel and bayonet;
• Building bubble level from 60 cm long;
• Bench hammer;
• Rubber hammer for laying tiles or paving stones;
• Construction marking cord and a set of stakes made of wood or pieces of reinforcement;
• Trowel and spatulas;
• Roulette;
• Construction knife;
• Chisel;
• Angle grinder (grinder) with discs of at least 230 mm for stone and metal;
• Container for preparation of solutions.

We present the further process in the form of a table.

Image	Process description
	Given the plan or design of surface drainage, it is necessary to determine the points of water discharge, that is, those places where water collected from the surface will go into the sewer pipeline leading to the drainage well. The laying depth of this pipeline should be lower than the freezing depth of the soil, which is 60-80 cm for most populated climatic zones in Russia. It is in our interests to minimize the number of discharge points, but to ensure the required drainage capacity.
	Discharge of water into the pipeline must be done either through sand traps or through storm water inlets to ensure the filtering of debris and sand. First of all, it is necessary to provide for their connection using standard shaped elements outdoor sewerage to the pipeline and try on these elements at the installation site.
	It is better to foresee the connection of storm water inlets located under downpipes in advance, even at the stage of arranging wall drainage, so that when snow melts during the thaw and off-season, water flowing from the roofs immediately falls into the underground pipeline and would not freeze in trays, on blind areas and paths.
	If it is not possible to install sand traps, then the sewer pipeline can be connected directly to the trays. For this, polymer concrete trays have special technological holes that allow you to connect a vertical pipeline.
	Some manufacturers have special baskets fixed in the vertical water outlet, which protect the drainage system from clogging.
	Most plastic trays, in addition to a vertical connection, can also have a side connection. But this should be done only when there is confidence in the purity of the water being drained, since it is much more difficult to clean drainage wells and catchment tanks than baskets.
	To install surface drainage elements, you first need to select the soil to the required depth and width. To do this, with an already existing lawn, the turf is cut to the required width, which is defined as the width of the installed element plus 20 cm - 10 cm on each side. It may be necessary to dismantle the curbs and extreme rows of paving slabs or paving stones.
	In depth for the installation of drainage elements, it is necessary to choose the soil by the depth of the element plus 20 cm. Of these, 10 cm for sand or crushed stone preparation, and 10 cm for a concrete base. The soil is removed, the base is cleaned and rammed, and further filling is made of crushed stone of a fraction of 5-20 mm. Then pegs are driven in and a cord is pulled, which will determine the level of the installed trays.
	Surface drainage elements are tried on at the installation site. In this case, one should take into account the direction of the water flow, which is usually indicated on the side surface of the trays.
	Holes are made in the drainage elements for connecting sewer pipes. AT plastic trays this is done with a knife, and in polymer concrete with a chisel and a hammer.
	When fitting parts, it may be necessary to cut off part of the tray. Plastic are easily cut with a hacksaw, and polymer concrete with a grinder. Galvanized metal gratings are cut with scissors for metal, and cast-iron gratings are cut with a grinder.
	On the last trays, end caps are installed using a special adhesive-sealant.
	To install surface drainage elements, it is best to use ready-made dry mixes of sand concrete M-300, which are in the assortment of many manufacturers. AT suitable capacity a solution is prepared, which should be dense in consistency. Installation is best done from discharge points - sand traps. Concrete is laid out on the prepared base.
	Then it is leveled with a trowel and a sand trap is installed on this pillow.
	Then it is exposed along the previously stretched cord. If necessary, the tray is seated in place with a rubber mallet.
	The correctness of the installation is checked by the cord and by the level.
	Trays and sand traps are set so that when the grate is installed, its plane is 3-5 mm below the surface level. Then the water will flow freely into the trays, the gratings will not be damaged by the wheels of the car.
	The level-mounted sand trap is immediately fixed on the sides concrete mix. The so-called concrete heel is formed.
	Similarly, drainage trays are installed on a concrete base.
	They also align with both cord and level.
	After installation, the joints are covered with a special sealant, which is always offered when buying trays.
	Experienced installers can apply sealant before installing the trays, applying it to the ends even before installation.
	When installing plastic trays in concrete, they can be deformed. Therefore, it is better to install them with installed gratings, which, in order to avoid contamination, are best wrapped with plastic wrap.
	If the surface is flat and has no slopes, then it will be problematic to provide the required slope of the trays. The way out of this situation is to install a cascade of trays of the same width, but different depths.
	After installing all the elements of surface drainage, a concrete heel is formed, and then paving stones or paving slabs are installed in place if they were dismantled. The surface of the paving stones should be 3-5 mm higher than the grate of the drainage tray.
	Between the paving stones and the trays, it is imperative to make a deformation seam. Instead of the recommended rubber cords, you can use a double-folded strip of roofing material and sealant.
	After the concrete has set, after 2-3 days, backfilling of the excavated soil can be done.
	After compacting the soil, the previously removed layer of turf is laid out on top. It must be laid 5-7 cm higher than the rest of the lawn surface, as over time it will compact and settle.
	After flushing the entire surface drainage system and checking its performance, the trays, storm water inlets and sand traps are closed with gratings. It is possible to expose elements to vertical loading only in 7-10 days.

When operating a surface drainage system, it is imperative to periodically clean the storm water inlets and sand traps. If necessary, you can remove the protective grids and rinse the trays themselves with a strong jet of water. Water collected after rains or snowmelt is the most suitable for further use for watering the garden, vegetable garden or lawns. The groundwater collected by a deep drainage system may have a different chemical composition and not always they can be used for the same purposes. Therefore, we once again remind and advise our readers to collect groundwater and atmospheric water separately.

Video: Installation of a drainage system

Site deep drainage equipment

We have already described in which cases deep drainage of the site is needed and found out that it is almost always needed in order to forever forget about the problems of stagnant puddles, permanent dirt or the death of various plants that cannot tolerate waterlogged soils. The complexity of deep drainage equipment is that if the site has already been landscaped, trees and shrubs have been planted, there is a well-groomed lawn, then this order will have to be violated at least partially. Therefore, we recommend to immediately organize a deep drainage system on the acquired new construction sites. As in all other cases, the project of such a drainage system must be ordered from specialists. Independent incorrect calculation and execution of the drainage system can lead to the fact that waterlogged places on the site will be adjacent to dry ones.

In areas with a pronounced relief, the drainage system can become a beautiful part of the landscape. To do this, an open channel or a network of channels is organized, through which water can freely leave the site. Rainwater from the roof can also be directed into these channels. But readers will certainly agree with the authors that the presence of a large number of channels will bring more inconvenience than benefits from their contemplation. That is why deep drainage is most often equipped closed type. Opponents of deep drainage may argue that such systems can lead to excessive drainage of fertile soil, which will negatively affect plants. However, any fertile soils have a very good and useful property - they retain exactly as much water in their thickness as necessary, and plants growing on soils take exactly as much water from it as is necessary for their root system.

The main guiding document for the organization of the drainage system is a graphical plan of the drainage system, which indicates everything: the location of the collector and storage wells, the cross section of the drainage pipes and their depth, the cross section of the drainage trench and other helpful information. An example of a drainage system plan is shown in the figure.

Consider the main stages of creating a deep drainage site.

Image	Process description
	First of all, the site is marked, in which the position of the main elements of the drainage system is transferred from the plan to the terrain. Drainage pipe routes are marked with a stretched cord, which can immediately be pulled either horizontally or with a slope, which should be in each of the sections.
	A pit is dug under the storage drainage well of the required depth. The bottom of the pit is compacted and 10 cm of sand is poured and compacted on it. The body of the well is tried on in place.
	In the direction from the well towards the beginning of the main collector pipe, a trench is dug, the bottom of which is immediately given the desired slope specified in the project, but not less than 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the pipe. The width of the trench in the bottom area is 40 m. The depth depends on the specific project.
	From the collector trench, trenches are dug for drains, which will be connected to the collector pipe. The bottom of the trenches is immediately given the desired slope. The width of the trenches in the bottom area is 40 cm. The depth is according to the project. On clay and loamy soils, the average depth of drains is 0.6-0.8 meters, and on sandy soils - 0.8-1.2 meters.
	The locations of rotary and collector inspection manholes are being prepared.
	After checking the depth and the required slopes, 10 cm of sand is poured onto the bottom of all trenches, which is then wetted and compacted manually.
	Geotextile is lined at the bottom of the trenches so that it also goes onto the side walls. Depending on the depth of the trench and the width of the geotextile fabric, it is fixed either on the walls of the trench or on top.
	The wells are installed and tried on in their places, the places where the couplings are inserted are marked. Then the wells are removed and the necessary couplings are cut into them to connect the drains, the bottoms are mounted.
	Wells are installed in their places, leveled. A layer of crushed granite or washed gravel with a fraction of 20-40 mm, 10 cm thick is poured into the trenches. The crushed stone layer is compacted, the necessary slopes are created.
	The necessary sections of drainage pipes are cut off, which are completed with plugs (if necessary). In most cases, drain-beams are made from pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, and collectors - 160 mm. Pipes are laid in trenches and connected to well couplings and fittings. Their depth and slopes are checked.
	A 20 cm layer of crushed stone or washed gravel is poured over the drains. After tamping, the crushed stone layer is covered with geotextiles previously attached to the walls of the trenches or from above.
	The drainage system is checked for operability. For this in various places where drains are laid, a large amount of water is poured into the trenches. Its absorption into the crushed stone layer and flow through the rotary, collector wells and getting into the main catchment well are controlled.
	A layer of sand is poured over the geotextile, at least 20 cm thick. The sand is compacted, and on top of it, the trenches are covered with fertile soil - 15-20 cm.
	Covers are put on the wells.

Even if the deep drainage of the site was done without a project, it is still necessary to draw up, on which to indicate the location of the drains and the depth of their occurrence. This will help in the future when carrying out any excavation work to leave the system intact. If the relief allows, then the water collection wells may not be arranged, and the water collected by drains is immediately sent to sewers, reservoirs or a collective storm sewer system. Any of these steps must be coordinated with the neighbors and the administration of the villages. But the well is still desirable, if only to control the GWL and its seasonal fluctuations.

The collector well for collecting groundwater can be made overflow. When the water level in such wells becomes higher than the overflow pipe, part of the water flows through the sewer pipe into another storage well. Such a system makes it possible to clean water in the storage well, since all the dirt, silt and debris settles in the collector overflow well.

When well-known thinkers, called great ones, whose statements are constantly quoted and cited as examples, put their thoughts on paper, they probably did not even suspect that they were writing about deep drainage. Here are some examples:

• The collective image of the thinker, which is known to most people, as Kozma Prutkov said: "Look at the root!". Great phrase talking about deep drainage! If the owner wishes to grow in his area garden trees, then it is simply necessary to know where groundwater lies, since their redundancy in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe root system has a bad effect on most plants.
• A very famous thinker and “generator of wisdom” Oscar Wilde also said, without knowing it, about deep drainage: “The greatest vice in a person is superficiality. Everything that happens in our life has its own deep meaning.
• Stanisław Jerzy Lec said the following about depth: “A swamp sometimes gives the impression of depth.” As well as possible, this phrase fits the drainage, since without it the site may well turn into a swamp.

You can cite many more quotes from great people and connect them with drainage, but we will not distract the readers of our portal from the main idea. For the safety of homes and the comfort of their inhabitants, creating ideal conditions for the growth of the necessary plants, the arrangement of a cozy landscape, drainage is definitely needed.

Conclusion

It should be noted that residents of most regions of Russia are unspeakably lucky if the issue of drainage is raised. An abundance of water, especially fresh water, is much better than its lack. Residents of arid and desert regions, after reading such an article, would sigh and say: “We would have your problems!” Therefore, we simply must consider ourselves lucky that we live in a country that does not lack fresh water.

As we have already noted, you can always “negotiate” with water using the drainage system. Modern market abundance offers just a gigantic range of various components, allowing you to create a system of any complexity. But in this matter one must be very selective and careful, since the excessive complexity of any system reduces its reliability. Therefore, we again and again recommend ordering a drainage project from specialists. And the independent implementation of the drainage of the site is quite within the power of any good owner, and we hope that our article will help in some way.

Not all owners of suburban allotments are “lucky” with ideal hydrogeological conditions. Often, only in the process of cultivating the land or building, they realize that underground waters lie high, that puddles stand for a long time during the flood period. Don't worry, drainage will solve this problem. Agree, it is much easier to build it than to look for a perfect site.

The drainage system will relieve excess moisture from the soil-vegetative layer, which will provide normal growth cultural green spaces. It will divert underground water from the foundation in case of their contact, protect the basement and the viewing hole of the garage from flooding.

Those who wish to arrange the drainage of the garden plot with their own hands or the efforts of a team of landscape workers will find detailed answers to all sorts of questions here. Our material describes in detail the options for drainage systems ground water and how they are constructed.

A drainage system that collects and drains excess groundwater is necessary in the following cases:

1. The plot is flat, i.e. there are no conditions for spontaneous movement of water downhill.
2. Groundwater is marked at a level close to the earth's surface.
3. The site is located in a lowland, river valley or in a swampy drained area.
4. The soil-vegetative layer develops on clay soils with low filtration properties.
5. The cottage is built on a slope, not far from its foot, which is why when precipitation falls on the site and around it, water accumulates and stagnates.

Installation of drainage is almost always necessary in areas with clay soils underlying the soil: sandy loam, loam. During the period of heavy rainfall, snowmelt, this type of rock passes water through its thickness too slowly or does not allow it to pass at all.

Water stagnation at the level of soil development is associated with its waterlogging. In a humid environment, the fungus actively reproduces, infections, pests (slugs, snails, etc.) appear, which leads to diseases of vegetable crops, rotting of the roots of bushes, perennial flowers and trees.

Due to stagnant water, the soil-vegetative layer becomes waterlogged, as a result of which plants die in a water-saturated environment, and the appearance of the site deteriorates. The drainage system allows you to remove moisture instantly, preventing its long-term impact on the ground

If you do not solve the problem with waterlogging of the soil, then over time, erosion of the earth may occur. In frosty times, the soil layers containing water will swell, which may damage the foundation, paved paths and other site improvement facilities.

To check whether drainage is necessary, you need to find out the throughput of the soil layers on the site. To do this, dig a small hole 60 cm deep and pour water into it to the limit.

If the water is absorbed in a day, then the soil underlying the soil has acceptable filtration properties. In this case, there is no need for drainage. If after two days the water does not leave, it means that clayey rocks lie under the soil-vegetative layer, and there is a risk of waterlogging.

Due to the heaving of water-saturated rocks, the walls of residential structures can crack, as a result of which the building may become unsuitable for permanent residence.

Consider the types of drainage systems and their features.

The main types of soil drainage systems

Before starting to draw up a work plan, purchase equipment and materials, it is necessary to determine which system it is advisable to implement so that it works as efficiently as possible.

There are three types of drainage systems:

• superficial(open) - is a ditch on the surface of the earth, used to remove excess moisture formed due to private rains or melting snow;
• deep(closed) - water is drained using a system of pipes, wells; the system is used in case of a risk of flooding the garden with precipitation and / or groundwater;
• filling- the principle of its construction is the same as the deep one, only drainage material without pipes is used exclusively; suitable for draining areas during rainfall.

Each of the above technologies has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Drainage systems for the improvement of sites are divided into two varieties: open and closed. The open one consists of a network of ditches, in the closed one, perforated pipes are laid in the ditches or soil with high filtration properties is filled up

The surface drainage network is often combined with a storm sewer that collects and removes precipitation. Stormwater is equipped with two types of water collectors: point and linear.

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Stormwater as an effective addition

Storm sewer- set downpipes with a well for the accumulation of moisture, through which it is transferred to the water intake. Before the water enters the well, there is a special siphon partition (grille) designed to clean the incoming liquid from debris, as a result of which the system does not clog, and there is no unpleasant odor in it.

A storm sewer system with linear-type water collectors is a series of trays located at a slope towards the place of moisture collection. Tanks are installed in ditches with a layer of gravel at the bottom. The technology is used when the slope of the day surface of the site does not exceed 30 degrees relative to the horizon.

Open ditches of the drainage system, as well as storm sewers, can be covered with a special storm grate that does not allow debris to pass through

The main difference between a point system and a linear one is that the point system uses a pipe system located underground. Water is collected through the so-called "points" - special storm drains equipped with a permeable grate.

This solution makes the structure almost invisible on the site.

Point storm sewer collectors are installed under the drain risers that collect atmospheric water from the roof of buildings

Sometimes one type of system is not enough for an area, so to maintain optimal level moisture, they can be combined.

You need to choose the type of system individually, taking into account landscape, geological features. For example, if the house is located away from a body of water, then you can limit yourself to open drainage. If the mansion is located on a landslide-prone slope in the river valley, then it is better to apply several systems at the same time. You can read more about the arrangement of storm sewers.

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Closed type drainage device

The closed system is a network of trenches in which pipes and drainage material are laid. Drainage can be laid both over the entire area and in a specific area that needs drainage.

The deep drainage system consists of the following elements:

• drainage pipes;
• well (drainage);
• water pump.

To implement the system, it is necessary to dig trenches, install pipes, and build drainage systems.

Deep, i.e. the closed drainage system is absolutely invisible on the site, since the pipeline is sprinkled with fertile soil on top, on which vegetables can be planted

To equip a water pipe in a trench, you will need:

• geotextile;
• crushed stone;
• gravel;
• sand.

The system is effectively used in case of flooding of the site with groundwater.

Standard structural components of the drainage system are:

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Drawing up a layout of elements

Before carrying out work, it is necessary to draw up a site plan, noting housing, domestic and household facilities, as well as shrubs, trees, flower beds.

The diagram illustrates the layout of an open drainage system according to the herringbone pattern. In the figure: 1) branches of the pipeline; 2) main sewer; 3) storm drain; 4) well

Then you need to draw up a layout of trenches.

There are 4 main types of schemes:

• the location of the snake;
• parallel device;
• laying drains with a herringbone;
• trapezoidal arrangement.

You can choose the scheme yourself, but the herringbone markup is most often used.

The choice of pipe layout depends on the shape of the site. The most effective is the herringbone pattern, since it is able to cover the largest area.

Ditches can be placed along the perimeter of the territory and along the contour of the house. On the site where vegetables and flowers will grow, a network is being built taking into account the requirements, which will be discussed below.

Technical requirements for installation

When constructing a trench, the following requirements must be considered:

• the depth should be 1-1.2 m, and the width should be 35-40 cm;
• near trees, a trench is dug to a depth of 1.2-1.5 m, near forest plantations - by 70-90 cm, near flower beds - by 60-80 cm;
• if peat soil prevails at the level of the PRS of the site, then, given that it quickly shrinks, the depth of the trench should not be less than a meter;
• if the site is relief, then the depth can reach a meter, if it is gentle or with a slight slope, then digging a trench with a depth of less than 1.5 m is inefficient;
• on clay soils: sandy loam, loam, trenches are dug at a distance of 7-10 m from each other, on well-drained: sands, gravel and gravel deposits - at 15-20 m;
• the drainage system should be located more than 1 meter from the foundation of the house, and the minimum allowable distance to the fence is 50 cm.

For the construction of an open drainage system, special pipes with a mesh should be selected. Their diameter can vary from 0.15 to 0.5 cm. It is better to refuse the use of asbestos-cement or ceramic drains, since they are impractical, require preliminary preparation, frequent washing, and quickly become clogged.

The most effective are perforated plastic pipes with geotextile and a filter made of coconut or other fiber.

For the installation of closed drainage branches, it is recommended to give preference to perforated pipes made of polymer or composite materials. Some modifications are equipped with a special filter shell (geotextile), which prevents the system from clogging.

The collector diameter must be larger than the pipe diameter. If the area of ​​the site to be developed is more than 0.5 ha, then the diameters can be equal.

The slope of the system towards the collector should be 2-3 cm for each meter of pipe with a diameter of 5-10 cm. If a larger diameter pipe is planned, then the slope should be less. We outlined in more detail how to correctly calculate the slope of the drainage pipe.

Owners of land in a lowland or on a steep slope face the problem when water stagnates at the lowest point, when the receiving water can be located higher. In this case, in the lower part of the territory it is necessary to build a storage well, into which it is necessary to introduce a drainage pump. With its help, water is pumped up and discharged into a ditch, ravine or other water receiver.

If it is planned to build an absorption well on the site for the disposal of the collected water, then the work on its construction is carried out in the following sequence:

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We buy concrete rings and pay for delivery or rent a lifting vehicle for their transportation

We sequentially immerse the rings into a pre-designed pit with filled sand and a leveled bottom. Before installing each subsequent element of the concrete shaft, the end of the previous element is covered with a binder solution

After the construction of the concrete shaft, we clear its bottom from the rock that crumbled during the work. We collect it in a bucket and drag it on a rope to the daylight surface

We cover the bottom of the constructed well with a piece of geotextile, the edges of which along the perimeter we wind onto the walls of the concrete shaft by about 10 cm

On the geotextile laid on the bottom, we pour 30-40 cm of washed sand, then 35-45 cm of fine gravel

Having arranged the two lower layers of the soil filter, we fall asleep 35-45 cm of coarse gravel. We drill a hole in the wall of the mine for the introduction of a pipe

We close the concrete well with an overlap with a hole for arranging the neck of the well

If necessary, we finish the neck with a brick, placing it around the hole in the ceiling, fix the hatch and fill the pit with sand

Progress in the construction of the system

The first thing to do before digging a trench is to build a drainage well. Its depth should be 2-3 m, and the diameter - up to 1 meter.

The most reliable well is concrete. However, it is not always possible to install concrete rings manually, so you will have to resort to the help of lifting equipment. In addition, high cost and fragility are disadvantages of concrete structures.

Plastic well - a special design made of polyethylene, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride, is practical and of high quality, effectively withstands ground pressure. The advantage of a reservoir well is that it provides pipe bends, and the package includes rubber cuffs ensuring the tightness of the connections.

Plastic wells are considered the easiest to operate and install, meet the price-quality ratio

You can also pave a brick well on your own, make a structure out of rubber and other improvised materials.

Subsequently, they install in the well, which pumps water into the drainage system - a sewer, a well or other natural water intake.

To protect ordinary plastic pipes from clogging, so-called "external" filters are used, made from straw, fibrous peat, weaving waste.

After digging trenches, do the following:

1. The trench is covered with sand by 10 cm, after which the geotextile layer is settled so that the edges of the canvas are higher than the recess.
2. Geotextiles are covered with crushed stone by 20 cm.
3. Lay drainage pipes.
4. Pipes are covered with gravel or crushed stone of sedimentary rocks to a height of 30-40 cm, then with coarse or gravelly sand 30 cm.
5. The geotextile is rolled up - it will hold small particles and allow the system to become clogged.
6. Geotextiles are sprinkled on top with a fertile layer of earth - soil.
7. The pipes are connected to the well.

The technology for designing a backfill drainage system differs from a deep one in that it does not provide pipes. The trenches are filled with large gravel or broken brick, on top they fall asleep with a small stone or gravel.

Implementation of the open variant

For creating surface systems the same rules for constructing a trench are used as for the implementation of a deep one.

For an open system, it is enough to build ditches 0.7 m deep and 0.5 m thick. The walls are made with a slope, the bevel angle is 30 degrees. The ditch is taken out to the sewer, which is common to the plots or to any other water intake.

The simplest and inexpensive way drainage system devices for draining a garden plot - an open option that you can do yourself without any problems and costs

Extending the life of the drain

A backfill type drainage system is able to function effectively for 5-7 years, while both deep and open drainage structures with high-quality pipes make it possible to forget about the problem of waterlogging for 50 years. But this is possible under the condition of periodic maintenance of the network.

There are 4 rules for caring for the system.

1. On the site where the pipes are located, large-sized equipment should not pass - the road for it should be laid separately.
2. Regular loosening of the earth will improve its water permeability, which will ensure the good operation of the system.
3. Once every 2-3 years, pipes should be flushed under strong water pressure, cleaning them from clay particles and rust.
4. Earthwork for installation should be carried out on damp ground.

Fulfilling simple tips, can extend the life of the equipment and avoid repair.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The video tells about all the nuances of a private drainage system:

Installation of drainage into the ground relieves owners of land acres from many problems. By setting drainage system, you can not worry about the state of crops, the general appearance of the site with increasing humidity.

Ground and melt water can cause serious trouble. This is especially true for loamy and clayey soil areas, since this type of soil prevents the passage of water, which leads to decay of plant roots. In this case, you can do the drainage of the site on clay soils with your own hands.

Since clay and loam do not pass water well, it accumulates in the soil, because of this, the roots of plants begin to rot. At the same time, covering with a fertile layer of soil does not correct the situation.

If on peat soil or clay does not equip a drain or drainage system, then a little rain is enough for the plot of a country house or cottage to turn into a swamp. It is impossible to work on such land for a long time, in addition to this, there is a high probability that the foundation will flood or freeze when the cold sets in.

Do not place high hopes on waterproofing, as frozen water can destroy its integrity.

As mentioned above, in this case there is only one way out - the creation of a drainage system.

Preparatory stage

Before proceeding with the choice of the type of drainage system, it is necessary to subject the site to a thorough analysis, namely:

• determine the structure of the soil;
• find out what is causing the high humidity.

According to the results of the analysis, the type of drainage system is selected. Next, you need to draw up a plan that indicates where and at what depth will be located various elements drainage systems. After that, construction can begin.

Types of drainage systems

For soil in which clay predominates, reservoir, surface or deep drainage options can be used. In some cases, it makes sense to use several types together in order to increase the efficiency of drainage. Let's consider each type in detail.

Surface type drainage systems

This type is ideal in cases where the site is located on a natural slope. For drainage, channels slightly deepened in the ground are created, through which water flows independently into the drainage well. They can be laid on any flat surface, for example, along the perimeter of a building, near a sidewalk or around a lawn.

Gutters are laid in the channel, they can be covered from above protective grille.

Deep drainage systems

If it is necessary to divert a large amount of water on clay soil, it is recommended to give preference to deep drainage systems. They are systems of underground pipelines that serve to divert water to places of accumulation.

Deep systems may include from one to several main drainage channels directed to a common catchment area. Their depth of occurrence varies from 1 to 1.5 m, while the width does not exceed 50 cm. Drainage pipes are installed in the channels. Auxiliary lines are connected to the main line, collecting water from the soil surface.

How the trench of deep drainage systems is arranged is shown in the figure.

The figure indicates:

• A - a layer of fertile soil (thickness 20cm);
• B - backfill soil (20cm);
• C - this layer is covered with crushed stone (30cm);
• D - pipe with a diameter of 110mm;
• E - geotextile coating;
• F - "pillow" of sand;
• G - soil.

Formation drainage systems

This type of drainage, as well as the previous type, belongs to the deep ones. It is used when it becomes necessary to drain groundwater from the structure (foundation). It is installed directly under the building. The drainage system is a layer of rubble, from which water is diverted into pipes laid around the building.

It should be noted that the size of this system must exceed the area of ​​​​the building under which it is located.

List of tools and materials

To independently create a drainage system on clay-type soil, you will need to prepare the following tools:

• shovels (they are used for laying ditches);
• level (to check the slope);
• stretcher or wheelbarrow (with their help, soil is carried out);
• hacksaw for cutting pipes;
• marking cord.

From materials for surface systems you will need:

• geotextile, it serves as a filter for water that will enter the drainage system;
• to create a sprinkle and a pillow, you need sand and gravel;
• gutters made of concrete or plastic, as well as sand traps and storm water inlets;
• cement.

If you plan to make a deep system, you will additionally need special (perforated) plastic pipes with a diameter of 100 to 110 mm, as well as elements for connecting them.

Video: How to make soil drainage in a country house in the garden

If you do not want to make a storage well with your own hands, into which water will flow from the drainage in an area where there is clay soil, the tank can be purchased ready-made (the price for it is quite affordable).

Self-creation of a surface system

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• trenches are dug, according to the plan of the drainage system. In this case, a slope should be observed towards the place of disposal of drainage water. This action is greatly simplified if the site has a natural slope. It is enough to dig a trench 80 cm deep and 40 cm wide;
• at the bottom of the trenches, a “pillow” of sand is made, which is covered with a layer of gravel, if desired, turf can be placed on top, after which the system can be operated.

If it is planned to install a gutter in the trenches, then they can be made less deep. In this case, the crushed stone is poured with cement mortar, on which gutters and other elements (storm water inlets, sand traps, etc.) are installed. From above, the gutter is closed with a special protective grate, which can play the role of decor.

Self-creation of a deep system

The arrangement of this type of drainage system will take more time. Its creation begins with the installation of a collector well, after which they begin to lay the main and auxiliary highways.

The depth of the trenches should be 1.2 m for the main drainage system and about a meter for auxiliary (additional) channels. The width is sufficient 50cm, both for the first and second.

It is important that the main channels reach the drainage well. Auxiliary trenches should have a slope of about five centimeters per meter. The bottom of the trench is covered with sand to create a pillow. On top of it, as well as along the edges of the trench, geotextiles are laid, after which the channel is covered with a 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone.

At the next stage, perforated plastic pipes are laid. Do not forget to check the level of the slope.

Where the pipes are turned, as well as at intervals of 25 meters, revision wells are installed.

At the last stage, the pipes are covered with gravel, wrapped in geotextiles, after which the ditch is leveled to the same level as the soil.

Photo: the central highway of the deep drainage system

As you can see, it is quite possible to do the drainage of a site on clay soils with your own hands, even if it takes some time, but in any case, the cost will be lower than attracting builders for this purpose.