How the sliding tabletop is attached to the leg. Kitchen table with your own hands. Table: material, manufacturing technology, schemes, designs - simple and complex

The table is an indispensable piece of furniture in the kitchen. Today, manufacturers for the manufacture of tables use great amount materials. You can also count at least two dozen options for legs for the kitchen table.

How much should be?

AT classic version The kitchen table has four legs. Basically, these are traditional models with square and rectangular countertops. A table with three legs almost always has round shape. It may be small coffee table or full lunch option. A table with two legs for the kitchen can be made in several forms, but most often there are models with two X-shaped legs or stable legs made of solid wood.

materials

Chrome plated metal

Metal legs are one of the most common types of kitchen table supports. The exceptional strength of the material ensures their reliability. Such legs are considered stable not only because of the solid construction, but also due to the plugs that are installed to prevent slipping on the floor. Manufacturers and craftsmen who decide to make a table with their own hands, metal legs attract the attention of low value and durability. The coating of such supports can be different, they can be painted or chrome.

Forged metal

Tables with forged legs have a number of advantages. First, they are very durable and never need to be repaired. Secondly, the model with iron legs has maximum stability, it is almost impossible to tilt or turn it over. Thirdly, tables with forged legs are quite versatile, easily fit into any interior and do not conflict with interior items that do not have forged elements. Fourth, forged legs are quite easy to care for and no special recommendations by their content.

Wooden

tables from natural wood is a classic and the oldest tradition of our country. Such furniture always looks very beautiful and expensive. Wooden legs for the kitchen table can be various shapes: round, square or carved. Models with carved or chiseled legs are the most beautiful and elegant, and the overall impression of furniture often depends on the skill of carving craftsmen. The wood is varnished and sanded, as many layers are made as necessary to obtain a beautiful smooth surface.

Plastic

Plastic legs are in high demand due to their low cost. In addition, furniture legs made of polyurethane are of high quality and reliable, captivating with beautiful carvings. Legs made of this material are perfectly combined with all countertops, regardless of the material from which they are made. Polymer materials absolutely impervious to moisture and vapours. Another advantage of polyurethane legs is their low flammability, which prevents the rapid spread of fire in the room in the event of a fire.

Designer finds

The most common version of the legs for fashionable tables for the kitchen is chrome-plated legs, which are in perfect harmony with retro style, minimalism and high-tech. If you look for the latest design developments of tables and supports for them, you can find a rather unusual execution of them. For example, the supports may be too wide or, conversely, extremely narrowed. Often the shape of the supports in the designer's fantasy suddenly becomes curved or decorated with artistic decoration.

Particular attention is given to the legs if they are under transparent tabletop. In this case, all the splendor of beautiful legs is perfectly visible visually, so a creative approach to their execution is required. A metal box with a cross section bent at an angle of 90 degrees, which plays the role of a central support, can act as a support. Luxurious Design obtained by using four gracefully curved legs, similar to the paws of insects.

Openwork intertwining metal legs give the tables a special luxury. They can fill almost all the space under it or part of it, be in shape geometric figure or represent the leaves of a plant.

Extravagant models that fit well into modern interior, you can call kitchen tables with X-shaped legs made of timber with square section. The legs tilted at an angle and converging at a point in the middle look most harmonious.

Pledge of strength and stability

Experts know that unprofessionally set legs are the cause of table swaying and tilting. While adjustable feet can correct the tilt, 99% of a table's quality depends on proper assembly.

There are two popular ways to mount legs: mounting with surface plates and mounting using T-nuts.

Mounting with surface plates

1. If you purchased legs without fittings installed in them, you will have to do it yourself. To do this, you must have eye and eye bolts for large tables and threaded dowels for small tables.
2. Eyebolts and eyebolts should be checked on a test plate to ensure that the screws will be of a compatible size.
3. Install the eye and eye bolts inside the table legs, and mark the center of the leg with a marker or pencil. Then you need to make a hole in the leg and tighten the bolt tightly in upper part each leg.
4. Turn the countertop on the wrong side or put it on its side.
5. Mount the plates at all four corners of the table top with four screws.
6. Then you need to screw the upper part of the bolt with an eye and an eye into the plate. Screw in until fully tightened.
7. After installing all four legs, place the table on the floor and make sure it is level.

A steel bath is much lighter than a cast iron bath, for this reason it will be much easier to transport and install it. The weight of such equipment is small, therefore it cannot be installed in the center of the bathroom without relying on the walls. First you need to install steel bath on the legs. Reliable and stable legs for a steel bath - those that follow the contour of the bottom of the product itself, in addition, it is desirable that they be self-adhesive.

Some manufacturers include bolted steel bath supports in the installation kit. But this set of fasteners is not harmless for the surface of the products, because it can damage the enamel layer. In case of excessive load, the enamel may crack in the fastening area. In addition, the “regular” legs of bathtubs from some manufacturers, alas, do not differ in quality. Therefore, it is preferable to purchase universal legs for a steel bath on a self-adhesive basis.

Generally speaking, the installation of metal plumbing equipment is practically no different from the installation of cast iron (besides, of course, that they are easier to move). But there are still some differences.

Features of mounting a steel bath

Due to the large weight and massiveness, cast iron bathtubs can be installed in the middle of the bathroom, but the installation of a steel product in the same way is impossible: the bath must necessarily adjoin three walls.

Based on this, you first need to install a bath, and then lay the wall tiles. For the free passage of the bath between the walls, the distance from one wall to another should be equal to the linear dimensions of the product, plus five to six millimeters.

We fasten the legs

How to fix the legs of a steel bath? So, we have already decided on what is best on a self-adhesive basis. Such supports have the shape of the letter "P" with some deflection at the base. They have screws for adjustment with plastic tips. The most reliable set of legs for a steel bath has small feet and longer adjusting bolts.

Since metal products are not very weighty and can tip over under the weight of water or the weight of a person, additional support can be made for them in the form of masonry blocks or bricks. Naturally, this support is installed with outside equipment.

After completing all the basic installation work plumbing fixture, the brick is tiled, so it original view does not play a special role. If you intend to make such a support, be sure to leave space below for free access to the siphon.

To install the legs on steel bath the following operations must be carried out:

Training

It is necessary to prepare a place for the installation of equipment. Immediately it is necessary to organize conclusions for sewer drain and future mixer. The next step is to treat the walls with moisture-proofing agents. If the corners between the walls are not straight, they need to be leveled. After that, you can proceed to the installation of a plumbing fixture.

Leg mounting

• First you need to turn the bath upside down. In order not to scratch the enamel layer, it is better to use cardboard or a layer of foam rubber as a substrate. When buying a product in a cardboard package, you can simply leave it on.
• The legs for a metal bath must first be tried on to the places of future installation. One pair of legs should be installed at a distance of approximately two centimeters from the outlet towards the center of the product.
• The second pair of legs is placed close to the second edge of the equipment.

Tip: In order for the legs to fit very well to the bottom, you can manually trim the depth of the deflection of the channel. In any case, it is advisable to do such a procedure not under the bath, but somewhere on the sidelines on the substrate.

• At the joints of the product, its surface must be degreased with undiluted alcohol or acetone. After that, you need to remove the protective layer from the lining, put the legs in the right places and press hard to the bottom of the equipment. It is also advisable to degrease the mounting points with alcohol, but in no case use a solvent.

Tip: In order for the protective layer to easily come off the lining, it can be heated with a building or ordinary household hair dryer.

• The threaded studs for adjustment must be carefully and slowly driven all the way into the plastic tips, while making sure that the thread is not damaged. If you do not have a rubber mallet, then it is better to tighten the complete nuts on the studs before driving. After that, the nuts must be screwed up to the tips, and the studs must be screwed into the points assigned to them on the support.
• In order to avoid incidents, you immediately need to evaluate the parameters of the door to the bathroom, because it can be narrow. In this case, it will not be possible to bring equipment with attached legs into the room without damaging the legs. Then it is desirable to attach the legs already in the bathroom itself.

Leveling the bathtub

• After installing the product in the right place, do not forget that the height of the steel bath with legs must be at the same level on all sides. To do this, you can use the level and in case of a height discrepancy on one side of the equipment and the other, simply adjust it using the adjustment screws on the legs themselves.
• Further, in the corners between the sides of the bathtub and the walls, four narrow wooden wedges must be hammered. The gaps between the edge of the steel equipment and the wall should be filled with special mounting foam from a gun. After it has completely solidified, it is necessary to pull out the wooden wedges.
• To ensure that water is not poured under the bath, on top of polyurethane foam, in level with the sides of the product, you can put a layer of silicone.

Conclusion

Upon completion of all stages, place under plumbing equipment you can lay a brick, or just install a decorative sliding screen. Then the installation metal product can be considered completed.

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; unassuming comfortable table to the cottage or for a picnic, you can build in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Getting the hang of carpentry, it will be possible over time to take up exclusive tables, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a separate from the living rooms production room: Woodwork is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means toning and protecting wood, like wood stains, emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in southern regions, while the juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on legs pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior in all respects to acrylic varnishes by water based; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

The first steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, it turns out garden table like a magazine, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the most weakness table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. most hard rock. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, eg. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for tables industrial production fastened with split sides, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of the Shiroptrebovskaya Soviet furniture Let her stay there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require least cost, but rather laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment narrow corridor a table with legs is often simply impossible to push up to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses the table can be served / given out the window, therefore, in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs come to the fore.

For tables on rectangular base the heads of the legs for blind fastening should also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Enough quality tables on turned legs they are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For tables simpler legs made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

table top

It is easier, but not the cheapest, to order a laminated worktop. chipboard(chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them to you willingly and for quite affordable price they will cut the tabletop to size if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. Finished slab and close, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The top and bottom shelves of the edging have different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edging on the surface of the end face is applied thin layer silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed out into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a table top. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But typesetting tabletops from fragments are obtained in skillful hands just wonderful. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. Tiled and her fight is glued tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with drinking grout, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the table top with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in fig; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. Aesthetic appearance highly desirable, but not decisive: suddenly he messed up with the decoration, that's what the tablecloth is for. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But the table top made of boards in this case is not the best. the best way: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is without a frame, very complex and time-consuming, subject to splitting. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, a countertop made of them works as solid slab, and you can cut it after assembly even with the “letter zyu”.

Note: the idea of ​​the broom senator, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table, shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. upper right - small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from sawing off a stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

Table in main room at home should be to face the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be striking for the time being, and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. It's basically 2 small round folding tables described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the qualities mentioned above are combined coffee and dining tables-transformers with mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. factory same coffee table-transformer rarely when it pulls less than $200, so even in this situation the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, banquet tables for the living room are more or less in full let's leave, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert lifts, unfolds and puts in place or removes a very complex mechanism back into the underframe, but it manual options available to make at home.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class

It would seem that such a simple question as fixing a countertop with a modern abundance of building materials should not cause difficulties. But it is precisely the huge number of options that makes you think about the best way. It’s also good when you just need to lay the work surface on the frame of the furniture module and provide it with only additional support. But cantilever wall mounting requires a more serious and balanced approach. Below we will consider both options, but for now it is worth deciding in which cases it is generally necessary to fix the work surface.

When is it necessary to do without additional fixation?

The countertop in the kitchen sometimes takes on very tangible loads. When cutting products, it only requires a sufficient area and a flat surface. But often we also load the table with small household appliances. Microwave, oven, portable Dishwasher, coffee maker, mini-bar - all these items in the kitchen often “settle” on the table, and here you will already need to fix it well.

The neat appearance of the kitchen should not be discounted either - an unfixed countertop can sometimes move, forming a noticeable gap in contact with the wall. Not only does this spoil the picture a little, but also particles of products will accumulate there. It is useless to attach a decorative plinth to such a movable surface. And if the design of the headset is such that freely hanging ends appear at the tabletop, instead of a reliable work surface, you become the owner of an analogue of a children's swing. So even the top plate lying on the pedestals is better to be attached to the wall so that it “does not play”.

Sometimes the only way to increase the functionality of a small kitchen is to make additional surfaces with your own hands where you can place appliances or process food. You can’t provide support for such countertops from below, but fixing them on the wall is quite realistic. And of course, you can’t do without it if built-in appliances are hidden under the work surface - refrigerators compartment or washing machine.

Methods for attaching countertops

The choice of fixing the table against the wall depends not only on the loads, but also on the material of the working surface. Of course, the easiest way to deal with laminated chipboard, MDF and wood - for such elements a headset is not needed professional tool, as is the case with heavy agglomerate or natural stone. For a metal countertop, too, special skills or devices are not needed - it is enough to choose the right type of fastening and be careful during installation.

In the meantime, let's prepare the main tool:

• The level is better than the usual carpenter's spirit level.
• A powerful electric drill or hammer drill if the walls are reinforced concrete, plus a set of appropriate drills.
• Screwdriver (sometimes you can get by with a Phillips screwdriver).
• Center punch and hammer.

Mounting on brackets

This is the most common way to mount the work surface, when the load on the walls is transferred through a special profile. For a standard worktop, a single bracket with a height of about 350 mm with a shoulder of 500 mm is suitable. You can take a couple of corner supports, but not so powerful, but it is better to keep the length of the shoulder.

The longer the countertop, the more brackets you will need to mount to compensate for its bending under load.

Work order:

1. Determine the installation location of the bracket so that it does not interfere with the furniture and appliances located below, but maintains the countertop at the desired height.
2. Make a mark on the wall and, using a level, lower the perpendicular out of it - the vertical part of the bracket is attached to this markup.
3. Attach the part to the resulting axis, mark the points for the screws. If necessary, they can be immediately screwed up.
4. Drill holes in the wall and hammer dowels into the sockets.

Then it all depends on the features of the countertop. If this thick sheet Chipboard or wooden shield, it is better to attach the bracket arm to its reverse side with short self-tapping screws (25 mm) - they should not pierce the plate through and through. Thin panels can be glued to liquid nails. Special strength is not needed here, it is enough to ensure the immobility of the surface resting on the bracket. The assembled structure can only be attached to the wall and fixed with a pair of self-tapping screws - they will open the already clogged dowels, and you will get a reliable anchor connection.

Similarly, you can attach the tabletop in a niche, where it will be surrounded by walls on three sides. Here it is better to use short brackets or even replace them with perforated metal corners, but also install them along the sides. Pay attention to the thickness of the steel - in this case, plates of 2.5-3 mm will be optimal.

Beam installation

how independent option this method of fixing the countertop should not be considered, but if you just need to immobilize it after laying it on the bottom row of cabinets, then it is quite suitable. Often cabinets are inexpensive kitchen sets have a smaller depth than the table tops that come with the kit. This allows you to install them in one row with a sink and a stove, withstanding the gaps necessary for other communications. But as a result, the work surface near the wall just hangs in the air and needs to be attached.

Work order:

1. Lay the countertop on the pedestals that are tightened and leveled, mark the line of the upper edge on the wall, after which the slab must be removed.
2. Measure the thickness and put the resulting millimeters down from the markup, draw a horizontal line using the level. This is the line that corresponds to the bottom edge of the countertop, and the beam should be attached along it.
3. Choose a sufficiently strong beam, measure the height of its profile in order to determine the central axis - a third is drawn under it below the previous two strips.
4. According to the last marking, nests for dowels are made, and reciprocal holes are made in the timber.
5. After checking the horizontal position, the beam will remain attached to the wall anchor bolts, and lay the countertop on it.

Such a support distributes the load of the work surface better, but due to the small width of the contact it cannot be used on its own - only when the countertop is supported by vertical supports (cabinet walls). It is advisable to impregnate the timber itself with an antiseptic, paint or varnish it, since it will have to serve in conditions of high humidity. You can use a metal corner, but it is harder to work with it, and its super reliability with this method of fastening will remain unclaimed.

Fixed tabletop when finished finishing works it is worth equipping with a small plinth. It will close the joint at the wall and make it much easier to clean the kitchen. Decorative slats can be made from any material - depending on the design working area. It is better to mount plastic and wooden plinth on self-tapping screws, tiles, metal or fake diamond enough to glue with a transparent sealant.

The table is a necessary attribute kitchen furniture. To date, manufacturers for the production of tables use a lot of materials. There is a great variety of forms of table legs, there are more than twenty of them. AT traditional version has four legs. In most cases, standard models have a square or rectangular countertop shape.

wooden dining table rectangular shape with four legs

A table with three legs is usually round. It can be used as a small coffee table or as a dining area.

Round wooden kitchen table with three legs

They also produce tables with two legs, they can be different kind, but mostly common models with two X-shaped legs or durable, made of solid wood.

Wooden table with X-shaped legs complete with chairs for a summer cottage

The legs of the table are attached to the sides of the support frame, and on them, in turn, the tabletop is fixed.

Many masters know that improperly fixed legs are the root cause of the fact that the table will swing and stand at an angle. There are adjustable feet that can correct a large percentage of the slope, but still, quality assembly is of paramount importance.

There are several options for attaching legs to countertops:

Attaching the leg with surface plates

Attaching Legs with T-Nuts

The option of fastening the tabletop to the side of the table without the use of additional fittings using screws

Using small metal Z-brackets is another popular way to mount a countertop.

Using homemade wooden clamps is a simple and reliable way to attach the tabletop to the underframe without purchased fittings.

Steel fasteners-eight - an option using inexpensive fittings

In this case, two or three additional spacers with rectangular grooves 10-15 mm long are attached to the sides of the headset.

Necessary materials

The materials that are used to make tables are very different, we will talk about some of them.

1. Arrays of different types of wood are suitable for this, for example, coniferous, oak, etc. If you are a novice craftsman, it is better to use pine, as it is easy to process. It should be remembered that such furniture burns out, absorbs odors, liquid, and does not tolerate temperature changes. Of the benefits - the material is environmentally friendly, strong, looks elegant.

   

   Solid pine for making a table with your own hands

2. Chipboard is a fairly popular material for furniture production. In the manufacture of dry chips and resins are used. Among the shortcomings, environmental risks can be noted. The advantage is a relatively cheap price.

   

   Chipboard - an inexpensive material option for making a dining table

3. MDF - compared to chipboard is more environmentally friendly, but also more expensive. Used in the manufacture wood chips, carbide resins, modified melamine. The disadvantage is that it ignites freely, there is a risk of fire even from rapidly heating objects.

   

   MDF is suitable for making a table, it is better and more environmentally friendly

4. Furniture shield - complete opposite MDF and chipboard. Acceptable price equivalent, the material is durable and environmentally friendly. Made from glued bars, pulled together by a press.

   

   Furniture board - square or rectangular sheets of wood, which are made by gluing together wooden blocks along the width or length

5. Metal - In most cases, stainless steel is used. Such a thing will cost a lot, but such a table will attract attention.

   

   Products from of stainless steel unpretentious in care, durable, practical, versatile in use

These materials are suitable for both table top and legs. They also make plastic, chrome-plated, forged legs. When choosing, rely on your preferences.

Furniture support chrome-plated for tables with side mounting

Coffee table with wrought iron legs

White round plastic outdoor table

Required Tools

The necessary set of tools for the manufacture and assembly of the table

For manufacturing, the following tools are needed: a planer, a grinding machine, an electric jigsaw, a saw, a drill, drills, sandpaper, screwdriver, self-tapping screws, glue, dowels, clamps, tape measure, pencil, protective equipment - glasses, gloves.

Manufacturing process: step by step instructions

Drawing wooden table with four legs

First in without fail need to make a drawing. Decide which legs you will mount - purchased or make your own. The form can be any.

Figured balusters or legs for a homemade table

If the table top is 0.8 m wide, then the legs should be 1.2 m long. To make the table top smooth, process it grinder. There should be no gaps between joints. To prevent the countertop from deforming from high humidity, the boards must be laid with an oncoming texture.

Boards for countertops with a thickness of at least 30cm

At the ends of the boards to be joined, you need to drill holes 8 cm deep, keep the gap between them in the range of 10-15 cm. We pass the prepared places with sandpaper and grease the edges, dowels and holes with glue. We insert the dowels into the holes, so we connect the countertop. We remove excess glue.

Option for attaching legs to a wooden table

Using glue and screws, we connect the transverse and fractional boards with the legs. On top of the latter, we make two recesses to attach the countertop. We wait twelve hours and mount it. We cover the structure with varnish, stain or paint.

Table with fixed top, frame and legs

Important! When applying a stain, consider the following: choose the thinner wisely, the plane must be carefully treated with sandpaper before coating, the main thing is to properly adjust the gun (the shape of the torch should be oval, and the layer that you apply should overlap the existing half).

Cover with varnish or wax to protect the top layer

Having familiarized yourself with the options for attaching the legs to the tabletop, it will not be difficult for you to make a table with your own hands, thereby updating the interior with such an original thing.

Video: Solid wood worktop. My mounting option