The bathroom should always be warm. After a shower, human skin is especially sensitive to temperature, and even short-term hypothermia can cause colds. In addition to the obvious discomfort and danger to human health, the cold in the bathroom can damage the finishing materials. They dry too slowly, which leads to constant dampness, the appearance of fungus and mold. How to insulate a bathroom in a private house and do without connecting additional heating?

Why is the bathroom cold?

Wall insulation in the bathroom

From heating appliances in the bathroom, only a heated towel rail is usually installed. If the owner himself built his house, then a radiator can also be in the bathroom, but it is mounted only in cases where the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is large enough. A room may be cold simply because it is not heated well enough. There are other reasons for low temperatures:

• Powerful extractor. The bathroom has high humidity, so you have to take care of proper ventilation. Together with air and condensate, heat also escapes through the hood. If the room is poorly insulated but well ventilated, it will be cool.

• Cracks in windows. Many private houses have wooden frames. Over time, they dry out, cracks appear. Frame insulation alone will not be enough, because. air circulation through the cracks continues.

• Cracks in walls, floors, ceilings. The building may shrink. The result is the appearance of cracks and crevices in building structures. If they are not insulated, the rooms may be cool even when the heating system is operating normally.

Installation of a heat insulator on the walls in the bathroom

How to insulate - from the inside or outside

If the layout of the apartments is such that the bathroom does not border on outer walls, then in private houses it is difficult to arrange it like that. Often the bathroom is corner room, and it is almost always cold in it. It is desirable to make high-quality wall insulation in the bathroom from the inside and outside.

The external thermal insulation of the walls is usually performed before the finishing of the facades, and the materials are selected to insulate the entire house as a whole. But from the inside, the bathroom should be insulated separately. It is necessary to minimize heat loss through the floor, ceiling and walls. For each design, insulators are selected taking into account the materials from which they are made.

Thermal insulation materials for walls and ceilings

The most popular materials for thermal insulation of walls and ceilings of the bathroom:

• polyurethane foam;
• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool;
• warm plasters.

All insulators have their advantages and disadvantages. Before buying, you should soberly evaluate them, because some heaters lose their properties when they become damp. If this happens, the money spent on protective measures will be thrown to the wind.

Whatever material the owner of the house chooses, you will have to take care of preparing the surfaces. It is necessary to remove the old finish and treat the structures with an antiseptic composition. This is necessary to destroy the fungus and prevent its occurrence in the future.

It is best to align the walls, but it is ideal for mounting most heaters. smooth surfaces not required. Minor defects will not affect the quality of the insulation. The main thing is that large cracks, distortions and drops should be eliminated in advance.

Option #1: mineral wool mats

Mineral wool absorbs water, and many experts do not recommend using it at all for those homeowners who are not ready to invest in high-quality hydro, vapor barrier.

Under the influence of moisture, the thermal insulation properties of the material are reduced, so it must be reliably protected from the ingress of drops of water, condensate. On the other hand, mineral wool does not interfere with micro-circulation of air, which is important for rooms that need good ventilation.

Advice. If mineral wool is chosen as a heater, be careful when installing hydro-, vapor barrier layers. It is necessary that the joints between the strips of materials are absolutely tight. This largely depends on the quality of the insulators themselves and the installation. Savings will only result in additional costs.

It is better to give preference not to a rolled insulator, but to hard mineral wool mats. They are mounted on special frame from wooden laths or galvanized profile. The second option is preferable. Metal carcass lasts longer and does not deform. Thanks to this and the design of the mats themselves, the insulation will not slide off the walls, go down.

When installing an insulating layer of mineral wool, it is necessary to shield the areas where heating devices are installed. For this use aluminum foil. If the heat insulator is properly installed and reliably protected from moisture, it can serve for decades without changing its technical and operational characteristics.

Capital insulation of the room with mineral wool

Option #2: Styrofoam

To insulate the bathroom from the inside, you can use foam. It is often used for external thermal insulation. The material has good performance properties, but has a number of disadvantages. The main one is low vapor permeability.

When installing polystyrene, joints must be carefully sealed. If even small gaps remain, condensation will accumulate under the insulation. Over time, this will lead to the appearance of a fungus, which will be extremely difficult to get rid of: you will have to dismantle and replace the insulation.

The advantages of the material include ease of installation. It is chosen by homeowners who plan to do repairs on their own. Styrofoam is lightweight and easy to handle conventional tools. For work, you only need a construction knife, a rubber roller, spatulas, materials for sealing joints.

Work order:

• Surface preparation. The walls are cleared old finish, level and open with a primer. The composition is applied in two layers. It is best to choose a primer with antiseptic additives.

• Applying glue. Foam sheets over the entire surface are covered with an adhesive composition. For its application, a notched trowel is used.

• Styrofoam bonding. The glue-covered insulation is pressed tightly against the wall. It is important to calculate the effort so as not to damage the fragile material. To make the sheet stick better, it is rolled with a rubber roller.

• Sealing joints. To seal the seams and joints use a special putty. Styrofoam should be putty in two layers. From above, you can mount the finish, ideally hydrophobic.

Option #3: polyurethane foam

To insulate the ceiling and walls in the bathroom, polyurethane foam is used from the inside. This is a liquid heat insulator, which is great for rooms of complex configuration. It is applied thin layer, which is important if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is small and the owner is trying to rationally use every free centimeter.

Polyurethane foam is distinguished by good vapor permeability, adhesion to any materials, heat and sound insulating properties, and is not afraid of fire and water. An important advantage is lightness: there is no additional load on building construction.

Disadvantages of polyurethane foam - relatively high price and sophisticated application technology. However, this pays off by the absence of the need to install hydro-, vapor barrier layers.

The material is applied using special equipment, and this work is best entrusted to qualified builders. If the wall insulation in the bathroom from the inside with the help of polyurethane foam is done correctly, then cold bridges do not appear, and condensate does not accumulate under the material.

The liquid heat insulator dries quickly, so almost immediately after its application, you can start Finishing work. It is not necessary to shield the areas where heating devices are located, because. high temperatures do not affect the efficiency of the heat insulator.

Option #4: cork agglomerate

Cork agglomerate is a high-quality eco-friendly insulation made from cork oak bark. It does not absorb water, is not afraid of fire, has good thermal insulation properties, passes air. There are no problems with installation: the material is glued to the surface according to the same principle as the wallpaper. It is suitable for both wall and ceiling insulation.

There is also a minus - the price. Warming is too expensive, and the use of such an exotic material for decoration is considered by many to be an unjustified waste. If the costs are not scary, then for the bathroom you can choose a material with a special wax impregnation. Cork will last long years without changing their properties.

Black and white cork agglomerate

Option #5: insulating plasters

great way insulate the bathroom from the inside - finish the walls plaster composition with low thermal conductivity. Warm plasters are vapor-permeable, they can cover surfaces with a complex configuration. The warming effect is obtained by special additives. Depending on them, vermiculite, sawdust, polystyrene foam plasters are distinguished.

Before applying the material, it is not necessary to level the surfaces, it is enough to clean them of old coatings and prime them with high quality. The only negative is that the heat insulator has to be applied in a thick layer. It reduces usable area bathroom. However, insulation with other materials takes up space in the same way.

Note! Application technology warm plasters quite complicated, and without the appropriate skills it is better not to try to do this work with your own hands.

How and with what you can insulate the floor in the bathroom

As heat insulators, you can choose polyurethane foam, mineral wool, ordinary or extruded polystyrene foam. Some homeowners settle for the cheapest option, Styrofoam. However, you should always remember that the insulation is mounted under the screed, and fragile foam sheets do not always successfully cope with loads. They burst, and moisture penetrates into the cracks. The result is dampness and fungus.

Best Choice for floor insulation in the bathroom - polyurethane foam. If the budget is limited, you can buy extruded polystyrene foam. It is rigid, tolerates loads well, has high thermal insulation properties, and is vapor permeable.

For high-quality insulation, it is necessary to mount thick layer extruded polystyrene foam, which means raising the level of the floor. Under concrete screed lay reinforcing mesh. The material needs good waterproofing. For this use waterproofing film or penetrating compounds.

Video lesson: thermal insulation of walls in a wooden house

There are many materials for wall insulation in the bathroom from the inside. Each home owner can find a heat insulator that is best suited for a particular room. The main thing is to take into account all the features of operation. This will help you avoid trouble in the future. Remember, expert advice is never superfluous. If you are not confident in your abilities, do not hesitate to ask for help.

August 22, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high tech, computer technology, programming.

Recently, I performed a task that seemed strange at first glance - warming the bathroom from the inside. It is rare when it is necessary to carry out the installation of thermal insulation inside this room. But in the case mentioned, it was impossible to work outside (due to the lack of equipment for industrial mountaineering), and it was impossible to leave the room without insulation, since in cold weather frost even formed on the walls.

I tried to set out the sequence of actions so that the described technology was easy to implement with my own hands. I am sure the material will be useful to you.

Features of bathroom insulation

The bathroom is a room with a specific microclimate, characterized by significant temperature fluctuations and very high level humidity. Therefore, its thermal insulation requires a special approach and I have no right not to mention some of the nuances.

1. The need to destroy the interior of the bathroom. To insulate the bathroom, you will have to dismantle the finish, and then re-tile the walls with tiles, plastic or plaster. All these operations increase the cost of the project, the time for its implementation and labor intensity.
2. Reducing the area of ​​the sanitary facilities. It is unlikely that someone has a bathroom in the apartment is spacious. So, an insulating cake will make the room even smaller. So think about whether the whole necessary furniture and equipment.
3. Violation of air infiltration. Vapor-tight insulation does not allow moist air to pass through the walls, therefore, to regulate the humidity in the bathroom, it is necessary to design not just effective ventilation, but forced ventilation using powerful ones.
4. Danger of mold and mildew. This scourge can only be feared if the thermal insulation is not done correctly.
5. Reducing the service life of enclosing structures. If you install insulation inside, the walls of the dwelling will constantly freeze and come into contact with atmospheric moisture, which negatively affects their integrity.

However, in my case, install a heater on the 20th floor of the city apartment building I was not able, because I can not pretend to be a monkey hanging at a dizzying height. And I didn’t want to hire a specialist either.

Therefore, I resorted to internal insulation. Although there are some nuances that need to be said:

• for internal insulation baths it is necessary to use materials that have hydrophobic properties and do not lose their operational properties when wet;
• it is better to choose materials with the lowest thermal conductivity so that the insulation layer is as thin as possible;
• for internal insulation, materials with great strength are needed in order to maintain integrity during finishing and possible mechanical impact.

Choice of materials and insulation technology

Manufacturers of modern building materials offer great amount various thermal insulators. These are mineral wool, and expanded clay, and penofol, and polyurethane foam.

But if we analyze everything that was said in the previous section, it becomes obvious that foam plastic and its more advanced version, extruded polystyrene foam, are most suitable for work.

These materials have many positive qualities:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The material well protects the room from unproductive heat loss, therefore, to protect the bathroom from the cold, a layer of insulation 50 mm thick is enough.
High strength	Despite the low density (from 25 to 35 kg per cubic meter), the foam has a durable surface on which a thin layer can be applied. cement plaster or make a reinforced screed on it.
hydrophobicity	The insulation has a closed cellular structure, therefore, in direct contact with water, it absorbs no more than 4% (EPS - 0.5%) of the liquid.
light weight	Styrofoam 98% consists of air closed in polystyrene cells, so it weighs little and does not exert a large additional load on building structures.
Low price	Insulation is cheaper than alternative thermal insulation materials, which saves some Money, which can be spent on a purchase, for example, tiles. Or jacuzzi tubs.

For myself, for work, I purchased polystyrene brand PSB-S-35 (the manufacturer is not important here) with a thickness of 50 mm and dimensions of 100 by 50 cm. The letter C means the presence of flame retardants in the polystyrene foam, which contribute to the attenuation of the insulating layer in case of fire.

As for other materials, you will need the following "gentleman's" set:

1. Glue on cement base for polystyrene foam. For example, Dops Multifix. With the same composition, I will reinforce the foam from above for the subsequent installation of a decorative coating.
2. Polyurethane foam adhesive. For example, Tytan Styro 753. I will use it for gluing on one of the walls of the bathroom (which is in contact with the street). It is cold, so cement glue will dry poorly and hold unreliably.
3. Dowels with hats ("mushrooms", "umbrellas"). Needed to fix the insulation layer on the surface of the walls. It is better to buy accessories with plastic cores so that metal screws do not become a conductor of cold from the street.
4. Reinforcing fiberglass alkali-resistant mesh. It will be used for reinforcement internal corners walls and the entire surface of the insulating layer of foam.
5. Waterproofing. This time I will use Ceresit CR-65. This material is sold in the form of a dry mix and is used for arranging hydraulic structures. Therefore, the resulting waterproof layer will certainly not let water through to the insulation and further to the neighbors.
6. Primer for concrete. It is necessary to take a composition that contains antiseptic substances. The latter prevent the appearance of mold and fungus inside the insulating layer. As an example, I can give Dufa Grund Antiseptik.

Of the tools, you will really need a puncher (since you have to drill a large number of holes), as well as buckets, spatulas and graters for applying the plaster layer on the walls.

Work procedure

To insulate a bath, you need to take only three steps, which are shown in the diagram below.

And now about each of them in more detail.

Stage 1 - Surface preparation

As you understand, we will insulate the walls and ceiling. But first you need to prepare these surfaces for work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. I free the bathroom from furniture and plumbing fixtures. This is just one of the disadvantages of internal insulation technology. To install the foam on the walls, you need to take out the bathtub, sink, washing machine and so on. Therefore, usually measures for thermal insulation are timed to general repair in the sanitary block.

1. I delete decorative trim from the walls. In my case, all surfaces were tiled. Therefore, I knocked down all the details with a puncher with a chisel attached to it. Moreover, you need to get rid of not only the tile itself, but also the remnants, in order to get as much as possible Smooth surface. In the case of other materials, you can proceed as follows:
   • The wallpaper simply breaks off the walls, after which the surfaces are protected with a spatula from the remnants of the substrate and glue.
   • You can not remove all the paint, but get rid of only those areas that are already swollen or crumbling. The rest of the layer will not interfere with the work.

1. I do wall and floor repairs. Before laying the insulation, it is necessary to make sure that the surfaces do not have cracks, potholes and bumps that can prevent the foam from sticking or cause moisture to penetrate into the thickness of the insulation layer:
   • Small and shallow cracks need to be slightly expanded with a grinder installed on it. diamond disc and then fill with polyurethane mounting foam. The latter, after solidification, is cut flush with the wall or floor.
   • Larger depressions are cleaned with a chisel to get rid of crumbling areas, after which they are filled with cement repair mortar. If reinforcement is visible in the recess, then it must be cleaned before repair sandpaper and coat with rust converter.

1. I clean the surface from dust. It is best to do this with a vacuum cleaner, which will remove even the smallest particles of dust and mineral chips.

1. I prime the walls and floor. The composition I have chosen not only improves adhesion, removes dust concrete plates and gives them antiseptic properties, but also kills all microorganisms that already live on the surface of the plates. Priming is carried out according to the following scheme:
   • First, using a roller (or, to speed up the process, a sprayer), the walls are primed in one layer.
   • After that, you need to give the composition time to dry. This usually takes about 4 hours.
   • Then the walls of the room are covered with a primer again. After the second layer has dried, you can proceed to gluing the foam.

1. I'm doing electrical wiring. If necessary, lay in the bathroom electrical cables and install sockets, you need to do it now. For installation, PVC cable channels are used, which, in the event of a short circuit, will not allow the insulation layer to ignite. And the expanded polystyrene itself is easily processed, so you can then hollow out recesses in it to mask these cable channels.

Stage 2 - Installation of thermal insulation on the walls

Let's start insulating the walls. I must say right away that although the gluing process seems simple, it contains many small nuances, on which the quality of the work performed ultimately depends.

The technology is as follows:

1. I hit zero. To do this, at a height of about 52-55 cm from the floor, mark the risk, guided by which, using a water or laser level, draw a strictly horizontal line over the entire surface of the walls in the bathroom, which will serve as a guide for gluing foam sheets.

1. I carry out, if necessary, the marking and cutting of foam sheets. The material is easily cut with a clerical knife, a hacksaw with sharp teeth or a hot metal wire. Let me point out a few things:
   • When cutting, keep the dimensions very precisely so that when gluing the seams between the individual sheets are minimal.
   • For a tighter fit of the sheets after sawing off the part, it is necessary to process its end with a foam grater.

1. I am preparing a reinforcing composition for foam. For this, dry mortar, where water is added, after which everything is stirred and brought to homogeneity using a mixer connected to a drill. In this case, it is important to pay attention to several points:
   • After kneading, it is necessary to leave the glue for 5-7 minutes so that the additives and plasticizers included in its composition are activated. After that, mix the solution again.
   • Only prepare as much glue as you can use within about 40 minutes. After this time operational properties solutions deteriorate.
   • To prepare a new portion, you need to use a clean container (or wash the old one well). Otherwise, frozen lumps from the previous batch can spoil the glue and interfere with correct alignment foam boards.

1. I glue the first sheet of foam with glue. The adhesive application scheme will be the same for all sheets, but it has several features that are important to know:
   • If the wall is even and it is not necessary to level it with foam, then the adhesive is applied to the entire surface of the foam, after which it is distributed with a notched trowel.
   • If you need to level the wall, then the glue is applied with a roller along the edge (at a distance of 5 cm from it with small gaps for air to escape), after which several lumps are placed in the middle so that at least 40% of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe material is covered with the composition.
   • Polyurethane glue from a cylinder is applied in the form of separate lumps (about 6-8 pieces), distributed over the entire surface of the insulation.
   • If the foam sheets are joined at an angle of 90 degrees, then the area that is adjacent to another part of the insulation does not need to be coated with glue.
   • During operation, care should be taken to ensure that the cement-based adhesive does not get into the seams between the sheets of expanded polystyrene.

1. I fix the first sheet of foam. You need to start work from the corner above the zero level line (drawn in advance on the walls). The system is like this:
   • It is necessary to fix the part on the wall, and then align it vertically, controlling the location using the water building level.
   • After that, additionally strengthen it with four “umbrella” dowels. It is necessary to drill a hole in the wall directly through the foam, then insert the dowel, but do not hammer the core, but only insert it all the way, otherwise you can knock down the set level of the foam sheet.

1. I glue the rest of the sheets on top of the zero mark. When applying glue and leveling, you need to act as indicated in the previous two paragraphs, as for the rest of the nuances:
   • When joining two adjacent sheets of the same row, it is necessary to achieve the tightest possible fit of the parts to each other. If necessary, you can use a styrofoam grater.
   • When installing the top row on the bottom one, you need to make sure that the seams of the material run apart, that is, the seam of the top one is at least 20 cm away from the seam of the bottom row of foam.
   • In the corners, the foam should be connected according to the principle of a ladder. That is, first there is a sheet from one wall, then from another, and so on with steps to the very top.
   • If the wall has too much vertical drop, an EPS pad of suitable thickness can be glued under the bottom of the foam sheet.
   • All foam sheets are also additionally reinforced with four dowels, the cores of which are not fully clogged until the glue is completely dry.
   • For gluing sheets on a cold wall that protects the bath from the street, you need to use polyurethane glue if the work is carried out in the cold season.

1. I glue the sheets below the zero line. Here it is important to fix them correctly, for which linings are used under the lower part of the part. If necessary, the insulation is trimmed with a knife or saw.
2. I fill the seams of the foam with polyurethane glue. It is necessary to pour the foam so that it fills the entire space between the foam sheets, and not just at the top of the seam.
3. I fix the sheets of insulation with dowels. This must be done after all the glue has dried. First, the cores of those parts that have already been inserted during gluing are clogged to the end. Then the number of dowels increases to 6-8 per sheet. It is also desirable to drive fasteners into the seams between the sheets in order to strengthen them too. The dowel must be hammered in so that its cap is immersed and does not rise above the surface of the polystyrene foam.

1. I perform the final cleaning of the foam surface. For this, a grater for expanded polystyrene is used. With its help, it is necessary to carefully process the seams of the foam (if there are small differences in height) and the outer corners (if any).

1. I reinforce the outer corners of the foam. In the bathroom where I did the renovation, the wall has complex shape, so the foam insulation formed two outside corners. They need to be reinforced with a corner with a mesh. It is done like this:
   • A small layer of reinforcing compound (the glue that was used to glue the insulation) is applied to the two sides of the corner.
   • A corner is applied, after which, with the help of a plaster grater, it is as if pressed into the insulation.
   • Then, with a spatula, a little more solution is applied from above, which is distributed in the direction from the corner outward.

1. I reinforce the surface of the foam with a mesh. A pre-purchased fiberglass alkali-resistant mesh is used:
   • A reinforcing composition is applied to the surface of the insulating layer.
   • A mesh is glued to it, after which it is pressed into the solution with a grater.
   • A little more composition is applied on top, which is then carefully leveled.
   • At the junction of individual sheets and in the corners of the room, the mesh must be overlapped.
   • When working for leveling, use the blunt side of the trowel for plastering, so as not to tear the reinforcing layer.

1. I carry out the final plastering of the wall surface with cement mortar. Further technology depends on the chosen finishing material. If you are going to glue the tiles, then you do not need to bring the surface to the ideal, and for painting and wallpaper, you will have to carefully plaster, putty and clean everything with sandpaper.

The last stage of wall insulation is their decorative finish.

Stage 3 - Floor insulation

To insulate the floor instead of polystyrene, I took extruded polystyrene foam trademark penoplex. This material has a high density, therefore it better tolerates mechanical loads exerted on the insulated surface.

I will describe the scheme of work briefly so as not to abuse your attention:

1. A plastic film is laid on the prepared floor. She plays the role waterproofing membrane and is used to prevent the foam from getting wet.
2. Sheets of heat-insulating material are laid. You can lay one layer 5 cm thick or two 10 cm thick. In my case, 5 is enough, since I also have a living room below and there is no need to defend against the fierce winter cold. The styling features are:
   • The material is simply laid out on the floor without fixing. From above will cement strainer, which will firmly hold the insulation sheets in place.
   • The ends of the foam plastic are designed in the form of a step, which allows you to tightly connect the parts and avoid the appearance of cold bridges.
   • When laying the material in two layers, you need to make sure that the seams of the bottom are in opposite directions with the joints of the top row.

1. Reinforcing mesh installed. What is needed here is not fiberglass, but metal grid from steel wire with a cell size of 10 cm. The laying technique is as follows:
   • Separate sheets of the grid are laid out on the foam in such a way that they run into each other at a distance of one cell.
   • Plastic legs are placed under the mesh, which will hold it at a height of 2-3 cm above the level of the insulating material.
   • The sheets of the reinforcing layer are connected to each other with steel wire.

1. Lighthouses are being installed. For this, special aluminum parts and brackets. Lighthouses need to be aligned with the water or laser level to achieve a perfectly flat floor in the end.
2. The screed is being poured. A solution is prepared, thrown into the space between the beacons and leveled with an aluminum rule.

Some nuances of thermal insulation of the bath

I tell you how to insulate a steel bath:

• the plumbing fixture is turned over and installed on cardboard, foam rubber or other lining that will prevent scratches on the enamel layer;
• legs are glued or otherwise fixed to the bath;
• a layer of mounting foam is applied to the surface of the product, which then hardens;
• similarly, you need to apply several layers of insulation (the more, the more effective the insulation);
• if necessary, the foam can be reinforced with fiberglass mesh.

Summary

Now you know how to insulate a bathroom in an apartment. If you are wondering how to insulate this room in wooden house, watch the video in this article, where the mentioned technology is described in great detail.

What do you think, how to insulate acrylic bath? Should I use polyurethane for this? mounting foam Or is it better to prefer other heat insulators? You can post your answers in the comments to the material.

August 22, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Metal bathtubs are strong and durable, but they have a significant drawback. The water in them cools down quickly. And this happens as a result of the fact that any metal is an excellent conductor of heat. Can this shortcoming exclude. Moreover, the insulation of the bath can be done by hand.

For these purposes, you will need foam and polyurethane foam.

First you need to calculate the amount of required materials. This will require the size of the surface area of ​​the bath. For ease of calculation, the bath is considered rectangular. Measurements of dimensions must be made on its inner surface. From the size of the area, the amount of foam required is calculated. The amount of mounting foam required is calculated from the condition that it should cover the entire surface of the bath with a layer of 2 cm.

For a standard bath, one half-liter bottle will suffice. You also need to purchase a foam gun. It will make this work not only convenient, but also save this material. Guns are not always equipped with nozzles, but for this work it is not difficult to make a nozzle with your own hands. To do this, a piece of PVC pipe of the required diameter is cut off. One end of this tube is heated and flattened. Thus, a narrow gap for the release of foam is obtained.

Warming process

The bath must be installed upside down so that it can be approached from all sides. The place where the bath will be installed to perform insulation, it is better to first cover it with polyethylene. Bath legs must be removed. Places where foam should not fall are sealed masking tape. Such places include, for example, drain holes bathroom.

Before starting work the surface of the bathroom needs to be moistened. Mounting foam is applied to small areas. Pieces of foam are placed on top of it. Small pieces of polystyrene are laid on the radius surfaces of the bathroom. In any case, the dimensions of the pieces should not exceed 20 cm. The bathtub is pasted with foam plastic from the bottom up.

How much dries

When the entire surface of the bath is covered with pieces of foam, you need to pause in work, but not more than an hour. Then you will need to fill the gaps between the pieces of foam with foam. After this layer of mounting foam has dried, you need to cut off the excess foam with a knife. You can finish the insulation of the bath on this, but the best option it will be to give the insulation layer strength to close it with a fiberglass mesh or fiberglass. To fix it on the insulation layer, glue or putty is used, which can be used with foam.

And last operation for the insulation of the bath will be the removal of adhesive tape and excess foam.



Jun 30/12

Warming and soundproofing steel bath with your own hands - step by step guide(a photo)

The lion's share of products in the sanitary ware market is occupied by steel bathtubs. They can be called budget option its product class. They are relatively cheap, and with proper handling they have quite a decent service life. But with all this, they have several significant drawbacks. Firstly, the water in the steel bath cools down very quickly, and secondly, the jet of water drawn into it makes a very loud sound, which can be heard even in neighboring apartments. Agree, these negative qualities steel baths completely negate their main advantage - low cost.

But that's not a problem, either. how to insulate a steel bath quite possibly on your own. Modern construction and insulation give great opportunity for a relatively small investment metal bath warm and almost silent. And just for this you need to purchase, depending on the size, three or four large cylinders of polyurethane sealant, popularly called polyurethane foam, in order to produce insulation and soundproofing of a steel bath with your own hands.

Thermal insulation and soundproofing of a steel bath with polyurethane foam

How to insulate a steel bath with mounting foam - what to look for

The whole process of warming is best done immediately, before the primary one. Subsequently, it will be quite difficult to dismantle the already installed and tiled "vessel" for bathing. That is why the insulated bathtub must be fully assembled and ready for installation - you need to install a drain siphon, fix the legs on which the bathtub rests, and if sewing and subsequent lining are planned later front side, you need to install the ud guide profile. Believe me, if you foresee all these details in advance, then the installation of almost any bathtub will go smoothly, as they say, without a hitch. But we will do all this later, and now we turn to the direct insulation and soundproofing of a steel bath.

Insulation and soundproofing of a steel bath - stages

You probably know that before applying any adhesives and sealants, the surface must be cleaned of dust and dirt, and when it comes to polyurethane sealant, that is, mounting foam, the surface must be well moistened. Foam grips better and stronger high humidity. Therefore, we take a rag abundantly moistened with water and wash off all the dust and dirt from the bath. And let the water flow in streams from the bath - this will not hurt our warming process in the slightest.

Insulation and soundproofing of a steel bath - surface preparation

Without waiting for the water to dry, we proceed to the preparation of mounting foam for insulating the bath. The sealant bottle must be thoroughly shaken and, if possible, heated under running water. hot water- this step will help to maximize the foam output from the cylinder and save you money.

Then everything is simple - we direct the cylinder tube to the bottom of the inverted bath. Slightly, so that a lot of foam does not come out at once, we press the feed lever and with a snake we lay the outgoing foamed polyurethane over the entire surface of the bottom of the bath. Do not forget that the siphon, the main part of which is located under the bathtub, may sometimes need to be replaced - which is why it is better to leave some space free from foam around it. The same empty space must subsequently be left around the installation site of the overflow.

Now a little about the insulation of the side walls of the steel bath. Here it may be difficult to apply foam - it can drain and fall down in large chunks. In principle, if you do not apply foam with a strong jet and carry out the whole process carefully and slowly, then everything will be in order. But if you are not confident in yourself and your abilities, then you need to wait a bit until the foam at the bottom dries up (half an hour will be enough) and simply turn the bath on its side. Do the same with the remaining sidewalls.

How to insulate a steel bath with your own hands photo

That's basically it, now you know how to insulate a steel bath most accessible way and with your own hands, without any extra investment. Now you should leave the bath alone until the polyurethane sealant is completely dry - this will take about eight hours, maybe a little more. After this time, the insulated and noise-free bath can be installed in its rightful place, and then it can be tiled further.

Do-it-yourself warming and soundproofing of the bathtub photo

This is how inexpensively and quickly you can produce high-quality insulation and soundproofing of your steel bath. You will definitely like the result.

Enamelled steel bathtubs proper care serve for quite a long time. Their service life can be measured in decades.

The main enemy of enamel is the fall of heavy, sharp, hard objects (for example, a tool). If this happens, the damaged surface must be cleaned, degreased, and covered with a layer of deeply penetrating enamel.

Each use of the bath should end with washing it with a washcloth and soapy water. Then rinse thoroughly clean water. It is not necessary to use water with a temperature exceeding 75 º C to wash the bath.

If yellowish spots appear on the surface of the bath, these are salts and minerals that are present in the water. They need to be washed with a solution of vinegar and water.

The plumbing and accessories market is saturated with a large selection of bathtubs. A significant niche in it is occupied by steel baths, as they are inexpensive options for arranging a bathroom.

With proper and careful operation, steel baths last for decades. One of the few disadvantages of a steel bath is that it is unable to retain heat. This disadvantage can be eliminated, and many people choose steel baths, and eliminate the disadvantage of low heat transfer.

Modern Construction Materials allow you to insulate the bath without special costs. On the regular bath standard sizes it is necessary to purchase only three cans of polyurethane sealant (mounting foam) with a capacity of 0.75 liters.

The steel bath must be insulated before it is installed in place; legs and a siphon with overflow must be installed on it. Bath insulation can be done by yourself. For this you need:

• clean the entire surface of the bath from the outside of foreign elements of dirt and dust;
• then we wet the bathtub with a damp cloth, while the mounting foam clings better to the surface;
• take a bottle of mounting foam, shake it several times and rinse it hot water, to ensure the rapid release of the polyurethane substance;
• then you need to direct the jet of the balloon to the surface of the bath and, making abundant spiral movements, envelop the bath. Don't forget to leave a little free space near the siphon so that it can be replaced.

The process of foaming a steel bath is simple in its technology, but it requires concentration and synchronism of movements from a person. This is necessary for a plentiful and high-quality result of thermal insulation and soundproofing.

First of all, in order to foam the bathroom, you need to purchase several cylinders of mounting foam. On average, you need about 3 cylinders of mounting foam with a capacity of 750 ml.

Today, there are many options for consumers to choose from. different manufacturers, which offer high-quality mounting foam, but you only need to purchase a proven, high-quality product.

For applying foam, you can purchase a special gun that regulates the speed of foam supply, the force of the jet flow and the width of application to the surface.

To properly foam a steel bath, you must perform the following steps:

• you need to install everything necessary details to the bathroom (siphon, overflow pipe and legs);
• you need to turn the bath over and put it on a soft surface to avoid damaging the enamel;
• clean the surface of the bath from stickers and protective film;
• prepare the balloon for use and begin the process of foaming in spiral or circular waves around the tub.

A steel bath, by its design and the composition of the material from which it is made, tends to conduct noise with a higher frequency than similar models made of cast iron or acrylic.

When water enters the bath bowl, a ringing noise appears. This phenomenon can make some discomfort when taking a bath, not only for the owners, but also for their neighbors. Therefore, when choosing a steel bath, you need to consider its sound insulation before installation.

The soundproofing of the bath is performed immediately before its installation in place. Also, all the necessary elements must be installed on the bath.

There are several ways to soundproof steel bathtubs. The main and relatively in expensive ways are:

- use of vibroisod. Vibroisod is a material used for sound absorption of the body in the automotive industry. They paste over the bottom of the body, thus preventing extraneous sounds from entering the cabin. It can be used to soundproof the bath bowl by gluing it on the outside, on the sides and on the bottom;

- use of polyurethane sealant. This method of soundproofing is simpler and accessible to everyone. To do this, you need to purchase several cylinders and apply sealant to the bathroom. The process of applying the sealant must be carried out in full concentration. It should be applied around the bath in even layers.