How to properly cut a 2 year old pear. Proper pruning pear, timing, old and young, columnar trees. Pruning a pear seedling after planting

In order to collect good harvest it is not enough to plant a tree from pear trees, the main thing is to properly care for it. In this article, we will provide answers to the following questions: “Why is pear pruning very important?”, “What time of year and how best to prune?”

Pruning - necessary procedure which contributes to the achievement of the following goals:

Yield increase.
Formation of the correct shape of the crown.
Access improvement sunlight to the crown.
Rapid growth of trees and acceleration of fruiting.
Extending the life of pear trees.
Convenient and fast harvesting.
The exclusion of shading other garden trees with pear trees.

When is the best time to cut?

Pruning at different times of the year has its own tasks, so each pruning is important in its own way. In autumn, pruning is done for sanitary cleaning of the crown, and pruning in summer or spring to stimulate flowering and for correct formation crowns. The very first pruning of pear trees, which are formed according to the five-branch system, should be carried out in the spring until the buds swell.

pruning in spring

Pear pruning scheme in spring

Pruning pear trees at any time of the year is carried out using a sharp pruner with a narrow blade. Also, the following tools can be used: pruner, hand or electric scissors (the handle can be long or short), garden knife, garden saw.

Spring pear pruning (maintenance) guarantees bountiful harvest by autumn, because it stimulates growth, unlike summer pruning, therefore experienced gardener will not miss pruning in the spring. The exact date when you need to cut a pear, it is very difficult to name, so be guided by the temperature outside. If the temperature rises above plus five degrees and it no longer freezes at night, then you can safely proceed to pruning.

The approximate period is from the beginning of March to the end of April. Southern regions they can prune throughout the winter, because there is no risk of freezing of the cut branches.

Spring pruning is needed for:

crown lightening;
reducing the height of the tree;
cutting off all lateral growths on the upper bud (flower);
thinning out overgrown branches.

In the spring, thin fragile branches are cut, which are easily broken from the weight of ripened fruits. The second method involves the removal of absolutely all branches to the base that grow incorrectly, that is, not growing horizontally to the ground.

In the spring, you should thin out the crown of the tree so that sunlight enters and heats the branches that will bear fruit and the trunk. To stop the growth of a pear tree, it is worth shortening the trunk by one fourth. Each cut should be treated with special tools.

pruning in summer

Summer tree pruning can be done with bare hands. You should start already in early June from the moment when the ovaries begin to form and continue every ten days throughout the growing season until harvest, because in summer the branches do not stop growing.

The method of summer pruning is called tweezing or pinching, it allows you to retard the growth of a pear, because a pear is a strongly growing tree. The essence of the method is to pinch unnecessary young shoots in the upper part with the help of nails. This will remove the top completely, including the already hardened area. This method will not allow young shoots to continue growing in length, that is, it prevents the growth of unnecessary branches.

If you carry out summer pruning of trees constantly, then you can save your strength during the autumn and spring pruning. Most of the branches will be easily removed, because the branch does not have time to gain strength. Also, correct summer pruning promotes the transformation of leaf buds into fruit buds, that is, directs nutrients fruits.

pruning in autumn

Autumn pruning (sanitary) allows you to increase the yield for the next year and prepare pear trees for winter, so this procedure should be started at the end of August, the last chance to make autumn pruning is given in mid-September, but only after harvest.

Autumn pruning consists of the following steps:

Removal of dried, diseased, damaged branches that can break off when freezing in winter and damage healthy shoots.
Branches growing at an angle of 90 degrees are removed.
Growing incorrectly undergo partial removal. Those branches that will impede the growth of fruitful taps are removed.
With the complete removal of the branches, stumps should not remain; focus on the rings located at the very base of the branches.

Branches removed during autumn pruning must be burned. This is necessary so that others garden trees were not affected by pathogenic bacteria remaining on the cut branches.

Features of age pruning

Pear pruning scheme by year

By the end of the first season, pruning of the young pear tree should begin. If the tree was planted in the spring, then the top of the seedling is cut off at a height of 70cm. This allows you to stimulate the fouling of uterine branches by the end of the season.

The next year, in the second spring, the branches (the skeleton of the crown) should be shortened by half or 2/3 of the length (depending on growth). Pruning should be done on the outer kidney, remove excess shoots.

In the second year, branches of the second order will develop. We also shorten the main branches by half or 2/3, but only those that are located towards the trunk at the largest angle of departure. There should be a center branch and about 3 side branches that grow at a 45 degree angle.

Pear older than one year should be cut 2 times a year.

In the early spring of the third year, half skeletal branches are cut to the outer bud. That is, branches are formed, which will then form the skeletal basis of the pear tree.

In the 4th year, conductors begin to be cut in spring, but there is often no central conductor, because pear trees have strong side branches.

If the branches grow up, then they are subject to mandatory cutting, that is, shortening, to transfer them to fruiting, or they are twisted under the lower branches. If they are moved to a horizontal position, then accelerated fruiting will be possible.

The old pear has very thick and strong branches that cannot be cut with ordinary pruners, so a garden saw is used to cut them. On old pear trees, anti-aging pruning is carried out in spring or at the end of winter, the main thing is to carry out before the growing season has begun.

This type of pruning is carried out only for trees whose age has exceeded ten years. Older pear trees are more resistant to low temperatures, but it is best to trim at temperatures above zero degrees.

A rejuvenating haircut is needed in the following cases:

if the tree has grown very much because it did not receive proper care;
if the tree is still bearing fruit, but the yield has decreased significantly and the quality of the fruit has deteriorated;
many dry areas that are affected by insects and diseases.

Frozen and dried branches are also subject to mandatory removal. Branches that interfere with young healthy branches should also be eliminated after cutting the conductor.

Pear is a very tasty and healthy garden crop that children and adults like.

The pear is grown on summer cottages, large agriculture and in large gardens. The fruits of this tree are very sweet, juicy and soft.

They are used in fresh, also for processing (production of marmalade, juice and marmalade). In horticulture, pruning fruit trees plays a very important role. important role on which the yield and quality of fruits depend. This culture is very fond of sunlight, which is good for its fertility.

If you are wondering what time of the year to prune a pear, we will try to tell you about all the features of pruning in each period.

We carry out pear pruning at different times of the year: we talk about the features and timing of each period

Exist several periods of pruning fruit trees: spring, autumn, summer and winter. The purpose of pruning is to improve the quality of the fruit, to regulate the fruiting and growth of the plant, to improve the illumination of the crown, to remove dry, broken and diseased branches.

Pruning makes it possible to grow a tree of the required growth with a good, strong trunk that in the future will be able to withstand a large crop weight, as well as maintain productivity and wood fouling for a long time, start fruiting in a timely manner and get high-quality fruits.

In order for the results of the pruning process not to disappoint the gardener, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of each pear variety.

Most often, spring pruning is carried out when the frosts have passed, and the growing season has not yet begun. But other times are also important. Let's talk about each of them separately.

A complete description of the pear pruning process in the spring

As we have already said, spring pruning is carried out at the moment when severe frosts have passed, but the growing season has not yet begun to operate.

We list the basic rules for spring pruning in order not to damage the fruit tree

For pruning, we use a special device called a secateurs with a very sharp blade, for large trees use a hacksaw. After removing the branches of the tree, all devices must be disinfected with alcohol-containing substances.

The pruning process begins with thinning the crown of the tree, this is done in order to provide good access to air and light.

It is necessary to shorten the central stem by about one fourth. Which in the future will allow the formation of a bowl-shaped tree.

This process of tree care must be carried out at an air temperature of at least 5 ° C.

After cutting the branches, the cut points must be lubricated. The following substances are suitable for this: drying oil, oil paint, garden pitch and Rannet. The latter is also suitable for impregnation of damaged areas of the pear.

Exist two cropping methods: cut on the ring and shortening the branches. The first method is as follows: the cut is carried out under the ring, i.e. at the base of the branch. To avoid tearing up the bark, a cut is first made at the bottom, and then the main upper washed down. When the branches are shortened, the growth of lateral shoots is accelerated, and the buds located below the cuts begin to awaken.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that pear branches grow, not only vertically, but also horizontally. From this it follows that it is necessary to support shoots growing horizontally, and shoots going vertically must be disposed of. AT without fail downward branches are cut off as they are less productive.

When pruning in the spring, it is forbidden to add nitrogen fertilizers, since the crop takes all the nutrients from the soil at this time.

With proper pruning of the tree, next year all the cuts will be neatly overgrown, the culture will be healthy and will begin to produce a rich harvest.

Summer pear pruning: what is this process

Summer pruning of trees consists in pinching (pinching), that is, in removing growing shoots on the tops of trees. Pinching is done with nails, and in some cases, when most of the shoot is removed, with secateurs.

As a result of tweezing, there is a huge impact on the tree. This process takes a long time to complete. But this pruning process allows for a very economical use of the nutrients that enter the plant. This happens due to the fact that during tweezing, the required length of the shoot is achieved by stopping its growth, while the one-year shoot is shortened. next spring, a significant part of it is removed, for the formation of which nutrients have already been used.

Reaction fruit crop for tweezing depends on the duration of its implementation:

If tweezing is carried out during the period of intensive growth (the month of June), then the growth of fast-growing shoots is delayed. This contributes to a new formation, from axillary buds of pinched shoots, premature summer shoots, as well as an increase in the growth of weakened shoots located not far from the shoots with which they were tweezed, and leaf buds turn into fruit buds. It is important to remember that tweezing does not have a very good effect on the growing season of the tree, which subsequently affects the wintering of the plant.

Also, tweezing is also carried out at the end of the attenuation of shoot growth. As a result, shoot maturation improves and axillary buds develop better.

Autumn pruning: what is its essence and main aspects

AT autumn period pruning is carried out from late August to mid-September. It is carried out only for medium or early varieties pears, which tend to be long-lived. If this process is carried out on time and correctly, then next year you will receive a very big harvest.

Basic rules for pruning pear in the fall

In no case should you immediately cut the tree heavily, due to the fact that it will throw all its forces into a very quick recovery and start up many vertical shoots, which in one or two years will outgrow the previous height. The best option would be to divide this procedure into several periods, for example, cut one part this fall, and the second next.

Pruning in autumn must be carried out to a temperature of 0 ° C.

First you need to remove the shoots growing at an angle of 90 ° from the trunk. Only after that, those that grow parallel or vertical to the trunk are removed.

It is also important to know that when removing branches, do not cut off the excess and do not leave stumps. The reference point in this is the annular influx of the bark, which is clearly visible at the base of the growing branches. It is in this place that tissues are located that heal and restore the tree especially quickly. If a stump is left or branches are cut too much, the tree will heal for a very long time.

Sawing branches with a thickness of more than 3 cm must be carried out as follows: first, a cut is made from below, and only after that it is possible to saw from above. If this is not taken into account, then the bark under the cut branch may be damaged, due to the fact that the unfinished part may break under the weight of its weight.

As with spring pruning, the saw cut site must be treated with garden pitch or other special substances. If this is not done, then the tree will begin to cry, which will entail the attraction of various insects that will have a bad effect on the tree.

After pruning, you should not feed the plant, as the tree will take the nutrients from its roots.

Winter pruning: is it worth it or not to carry it out during this period, and how it affects the trees

Pruning pear during this period is not recommended at all. Since the low winter temperatures can have a very negative effect on the plant. Branches that are cut off will not only not have time to heal, but may also die from frost. Winter pruning is carried out from early November to early March, when the tree is dormant.

Features of winter pruning

As in all periods of pruning, it must be carried out with a pruner, lopper or saw.

It is necessary to start pruning with the removal of cross, dead, weak and rubbing, diseased and damaged branches.

It is necessary that the middle of the tree be open in order to remove large branches. If you need to remove several large branches, then this procedure must be divided into several winter periods.

AT winter time you can remove too spread out branches and remove the height of the tree.

Usually pruned in February at -15°C.

They begin this process with old pears, since their kidneys awaken earlier than those of young ones.

In order for the wound to heal faster and not freeze in winter, it is important to use a clean and sterile tool, and after trimming, treat the wounds with garden pitch.

The process of pruning an old and a young pear, what is their difference. Pear trimming scheme, and what tools are used for this process

Pear pruning is done to improve crop yields and to get more sunlight. Agrotechnicians claim that pruned trees are less subject to technical molding. Pruning is carried out on both old and young pears, detailed description You will read each of the processes below, as well as what tools are needed for this, and what kind of trimming scheme is used.

All the nuances of pruning an old pear or how to extend the life of a tree

Poor pruning of old pears is sometimes fatal to old fruit trees. But often, in order to restore health, shape and fruiting to the plant, it is necessary to carry out anti-aging measures, which are pear pruning. Sometimes the garden passes from one owner to another, and the first one never took care of the trees, because of which they grew tall, but not fruitful. To do this, carry out activities for pruning old pears.

Sometimes there is a need to shorten the pear if the tree has grown too tall. And if for a pear and its height corresponds to the normal height for harvesting, then the gardener begins the process of tree rejuvenation by thinning the crown. This event must begin at the end of winter or early spring, before leaves and buds begin to form.

First, diseased, broken, frozen and non-fruitful dry branches are cut. This will allow sunbeams it is better to illuminate the crown of the tree, and also you will see the remaining amount of work that needs to be done. Then, extra shoots are removed, shoots growing at an acute angle or parallel to the crown of the tree, as well as shoots of competitors. Some of the remaining shoots can be shortened, and then fresh wounds can be treated with a decoction.

If the old pear is rejuvenated correctly, it can save the tree from felling. Everything is possible that after rejuvenation, an old pear may not bring a big harvest at first or even give less fruit, but do not be upset, this is not forever.

Pruning a young pear, what factors you need to know when conducting this event

The first and most important pruning of a young pear is carried out immediately after the seedling and immediately performs two tasks:

When planting a plant, root system damaged, and nutrition can be improved by shortening the branches.

The first tab of the pear trimming scheme, shortening the conductor.

In the autumn, in the year of planting pear seedlings, pruning is not carried out, there is no need for this. If you do everything right in the first year of pruning pear, then in the future young tree will grow well and fold its crown, requiring only pruning of old shoots. When pruning a young pear, the conductor should be higher than the pruned shoots, which will have an effect on the pyramidal growth of the tree.

Pruning of pears older than one year is carried out 2 times a year, which has a very good effect on increasing branching, the formation of semi-skeletal branches on which fruit branches grow. To do this, they are shortened by 25% of the total length. Next, gardeners need to pay attention to tops. They form frequently, especially after the winter period.

Tops can quickly grow into large branches, which significantly thickens the crown of the tree, so in the spring they are converted into overgrown and semi-skeletal branches, and some of them should be cut completely. If there were severe frosts in winter, and the wood above the tops was frozen and the leaves do not grow well on the tree, then the shoots on the skeletal branches will develop poorly. Then you need to cut off everything above the tops with their part.

And branches are formed from the second half, which contributes to the restoration of the crown of the tree. In the fourth year of life of young pears, lay the second tier. And after the fifth year, will decrease annual growth, because of this, the shortening of the branches will need to be done more moderately.

Pear pruning scheme or how it happens

At young seedling, which is one year old, cut the trunk by 25% of the total length, this is done to branch the crown of the tree. Lateral shoots are also shortened, but only to the first bud. After another year of life, the top of the main trunk is cut off by 25-30 cm, and the branches by 6-8 cm. For the correct formation of the shape of the tree, it is necessary to leave the lower branches longer than the upper ones. For good fruiting, the shape of the tree should be in the form of a pyramid.

After passing through these processes, pruning is carried out in two stages:

The first stage of sanitary is carried out in the month of March. Its essence is the removal of dry and diseased branches.

The second formative stage is carried out approximately two weeks after the first. As the pear matures, the rate at which shoots appear decreases. Then the shaping or main pruning is carried out once every three years.

Tools that are used to trim pears

The main tool for this process, for every gardener, is secateurs. They are used to remove branches about 2 cm thick in diameter, and for thicker ones, a lopper is used. The only difference between a pruner and a pruner is that the former has a longer handle.

Some gardeners prune knife- It is very difficult. The main thing is that he has a good sharp blade. There are also special garden knives designed for small pruning, which are used instead of secateurs.

Also used for trimming saws. It is used to trim larger branches. But they use a special garden saw for this, and not a simple one. Their difference is that the garden is designed for trimming living branches. Everyone garden tools must be sharp and sterile.

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In order to have less unnecessary overgrowth, only the most necessary pruning pears in autumn. The tree responds very strongly to this procedure, intensively growing young shoots next year.

For a tree, there is no difference between pruning in autumn and in early spring before the awakening of the kidneys. This is the same state of the tree, when one vegetation has ended, and the second has not yet begun. It is more comfortable to prune in the autumn, there are no snowdrifts and spring slush under your feet, your hands do not freeze.

An unpleasant feature autumn pruning trees in that it reduces winter hardiness, therefore it is not applicable for low-hardy species. In autumn, it is ideal to cut an adult pear.

Corrective pruning is carried out in September, when the foliage falls.

Some gardeners believe that early spring pruning is safer from the point of view of infecting plants with a milky sheen. But this disease is quite rare.

Event Tools

Thick branches are cut with a saw, thin branches with pruners. So that when cutting a thick side branch does not fall off and tear off the bark, it is removed in two approaches. First, they cut off most of it, leaving a stump at the trunk, then saw off the remaining part at the very base. A saw or a hacksaw injures branches less than a pruner.

While thinning the crown, the pruner must be held with the sickle-shaped part on top, otherwise it will not work on the ring.

You can also use for cutting shoots. sharp knife. All tools must be disinfected before use.

Autumn pruning dates

The time of autumn pruning depends on the region of residence. In the southern regions of Russia, it can be carried out on warm October days.

It is undesirable to cut when the air temperature is below 0 °C. When the wood becomes brittle, it cannot be cut. Recommended pruning time after leaf fall, when the movement of vegetable juices slows down.

So that the tree has time to prepare for the onset of cold weather, in middle lane It is desirable for Russia to finish pruning by October. It is best to choose a sunny, fine day when it is pleasant to work.

Scheme for beginners

The process usually starts from the top. If you cut off the lower branches, then the growth of the tree will go up. Before proceeding, it is necessary to imagine how the tree will look like, for example, like a bowl or with a sparsely-tiered crown.

Pruning a pear is done in the same way as an apple tree. There are a lot of types of crown formation:

longline;
sparse-tiered;
pyramidal;
fusiform;
bowl-shaped.

The tiered type of formation is popular. Sparse-tiered pruning is applicable to apple and pear trees with an annular type of fruiting.

Approximate cutting scheme:

When pruning, no more than 1/3 of the crown is removed. Ideally, the crown can be made low, wide and flat-round. It is necessary to observe the principle of subordination of branches. If a sparse-tiered crown is formed, the central conductor is left, all other branches are made below it.
You should not lay more branches in the upper tier than there were in the lower one. If 5 branches grow below, 4 are left at the top, etc. Ideally, they should fill the space between the branches of the previous tier.
When the tree has reached the desired height, the central conductor is cut very short, by 2-3 buds. The next year, the tree will grow quite a bit in height. It again needs to be shortened by 2 buds, and the height of the tree will remain the same.

In order for the tree to maintain its shape, size, and regularly bear fruit, pruning of branches must be carried out every year.

The nuances of pruning a young, old tree

Pruning young pears in the fall is necessary so that all branches are well lit by the sun and ventilated. Therefore, it is necessary to remove unnecessary, interfering branches, those that intersect with each other.

Proper pruning is done close to the kidney so that a large stump does not remain, it can become a source of infection in the future.

The cut is made oblique, its lower edge should be flush with the upper edge of the kidney.

The purpose of pruning an old, fruitful pear is to produce more fruit, high yields. It is not necessary to remove short, growing branches, because flowers form on them, and then ovaries.

For a young and old tree, the general pruning laws apply when forming a longline crown:

The first law of subordination, hierarchy. According to it, the branches of the underlying tier should not outgrow the branches of the overlying tiers in height. In this case, the branches of the upper tier are cut shorter than the branches of the lower tier.
The second law is thinning. In trees, thinning in the crown allows access to light and air. During thinning, dried, diseased, inward-growing and unproductive branches are removed. On older trees, the rings are also thinned out. This operation causes the laying of new fruit formations.
The third law is shortening. It is made on 1/3 or 1/4 branches. It is necessary to take into account the direction of growth of the kidney located at the cut. Pruning is done in a zigzag manner, leaving in one year on the shoot a bud looking to the left, and in another to the right. Shorten shoots depending on the strength of growth. This procedure causes lateral branching, the shoots do not stretch up so quickly.

After cutting off the branch, the top few buds will produce long growth shoots of continuation. Therefore, they are cut so that the upper kidney remains, to escape continued next year, and a few buds below, on the shoots that will give branches of the first order - skeletal.

Pear care after pruning

It is easier for a tree to endure an unpleasant procedure, and start growing with appropriate care.

2 hours after pruning, all sections are covered with garden pitch. If you do this right away, the putty will fall off the wet cuts.

A cut with a diameter of less than 2 cm can not be covered with garden pitch; it is necessary to cover a larger diameter. It is especially important to process cuts that are made on the ring, directly on the skeletal branches and on the trunk.

We must not forget about general events for care - treatment from pests and diseases, top dressing, watering and loosening the soil in trunk circle, weed removal.

Beginning gardeners, due to their inexperience, when they plant a pear, miss such a moment as pruning. And as a result, the tree gives a meager and low-quality crop.

Although this is a very important procedure that requires a lot of patience and certain skills. After all, if you overdo it a lot, then the tree will not be able to endure the winter. And if you do everything right, then pruning the pear in the fall according to the scheme will allow you to form correct form crowns and provide the gardener with a good harvest.

Some pear varieties are not able to actively grow, but at the same time their crown is still formed. Of course, the rate of crown overgrowth is not so fast, but even slow-growing pears still need pruning. And such a procedure must be done regularly, up to the drying and death of the tree itself.

Therefore, pear pruning is influenced by several factors.

Tree pruning level.
Pruning type.
Direct pear variety.
Tree age.

Pruning pear has several advantages:

a powerful skeleton is formed near the tree, which will allow it to withstand the characteristic weight of the fruits themselves;
nutrients are evenly distributed throughout the trunk, right up to the very tips of the branches (this will allow artificial sap to be driven in winter and increase the size of the crop);
the procedure will allow sufficient sunlight to fall on the tree as a whole;
also removing extra branches will allow you to capture as much space as possible during spraying;
pruning will allow for much more efficient harvesting.

If the pear is not cut in time, then the overgrown branches will constantly deplete the tree in the winter, and also reduce the amount of the crop.

Pear pruning in autumn begins at the end of August and continues until mid-September. At this time, the pear should not be cut too much. After all, if you cut too many branches, then the pear simply cannot cope with the winter cold.

And the trick of pruning in the autumn is that in winter the juice does not stop moving along the trunk. But it slows down, which impairs the distribution of beneficial and nutrient substances through the capillaries.

Therefore, during pruning, the juice begins to move more actively, trying to tighten the cut branches.

But it takes a lot of energy for the pear. Therefore, pruning must be done in such a way that the juice actively moves along the trunk in winter, and at the same time the tree does not waste a lot of energy. And how to do it correctly will tell the video for beginners:

Opinion differs as to when is the best time to prune. Some gardeners believe that spring pruning favors pear productivity and fruiting, since there is no risk of a sharp cold snap or frost.

And some gardeners generally carry out winter pruning, citing the fact that the pear is at rest.

But, when there are very severe frosts on the street, pruning is strictly prohibited, and the autumn crown formation procedure can just prepare the tree for winter and prevent it from dying.

Basic rules for pruning pear in the fall

In order for a novice gardener to do everything right, you must adhere to the following points.

It is necessary to remove extra branches so as not to overdo it. Otherwise, even shoots will appear on the pear, which in a few years will exceed normal sizes.
It is best to prune when the temperature environment will be within 0°C.
Initially, it is necessary to remove only those branches that grow on a pear at an angle of 90 about, relative to the trunk itself. And only after that you can start cutting other branches.
Branches should be cut as close to the base as possible.
Thin branches are best cut with secateurs, and thick branches are best disposed of with a saw. The main thing to remember is that the branches must be cut, not broken off. Therefore, for different thickness branches use different tools.
After all the extra branches have been removed, the cut points are treated with garden pitch or other protective and antiseptic agents.
After the pruning process, you do not need to feed the tree. It will take everything she needs for the winter from the roots.

What are the cuts

To properly trim a pear, you need to know that there are two types of pruning.

Thinning is done in order to get rid of unnecessary shoots or branches. In this way, the branches are completely removed and the grower provides enough light and air, which increases the yield. This approach allows the redistribution of nutrients within the trunk, and improves protection against diseases and pests.

Shortening involves removing only upper parts branches. This procedure allows the pear to grow not in height, but to acquire the correct conical shape. True, this method reduces the amount of the crop, but its quality increases.

These types of pruning are most often combined with some cunning tricks(e.g. tilt, garter, kerb, etc.).

The gardener must decide what he expects from pruning the tree. And, depending on the purpose, there are several types of pruning.

The formative type is carried out when the tree is still young and less than a year old. This kind of cutting early stages forms the crown of the tree in the right direction. Pruning involves removing a minimum number of branches before the very first fruiting.

The supporting type is to evenly distribute nutrients inside the tree and stabilize fruiting. In this case, pruning is carried out on mature trees that have begun to bear their first fruits.

The rejuvenating type is carried out when the tree has lived a large third of its life. In this way, the duration of fruiting and the life of the tree itself increases.

Required Tools

As already mentioned, in order to make high-quality pruning of branches and shoots, it is necessary to have the right tools, since the cuts must be correct and, most importantly, the branches must not be broken. And for this, every gardener should have the following tools:

secateurs;
saw;
delimber;
garden pitch or paraffin.

Before using the tools, it is necessary to check that they are in good condition, well sharpened and disinfected before cutting.

Cutting technique step by step

In order for the pear to be formed correctly and give a good harvest, it is necessary to follow a certain pruning pattern:

At the first pruning, its crown is formed.
A bud is selected at a certain height from the base (the height depends on the size of the shoot, or branch) - this place is called the "first point".
From the first point, the first four kidneys are counted, which are removed. This is done so that the branch grows freely, and the branches form at a more suitable angle.
The fifth kidney is left for the second branch to fully develop. Usually this kidney is on the opposite side of the first kidney.
The next three kidneys (6 - 8) are removed.
On the 9th kidney, a cut of the shoot is made.
When the pear reaches the age of two, the central shoot of the tree should be about 0.2 m higher than the rest of the branches. And for this you need to cut all the other branches.
To form skeletal branches, techniques such as shortening, tilting, bending are used.
When the pear is 4-5 years old, the most basic shoot is pruned to the level of the very first skeletal branch.
Cut off the next years of your life old pear it is necessary in such a way that the crown does not thicken.
But at the same time, it is necessary to remove all shoots that grow at an acute angle every year. As well as those shoots that grow in the center of the crown.
Those branches that do not bear fruit, but grow at an angle of 90 o, are cut off.
Young growths are shortened by 1/3.
Fruits should not be cut, but if there is no choice, and they interfere with some other more important process, then they will have to be cut.

Pruning an old pear for rejuvenation

When pruning a pear, there are several nuances that experienced gardeners know about:

When the crown pruning area is very large, it would be better to stretch this process over several years.
You can use simple self-cutting mechanisms. And for this, the branch is dragged flexible, but not too much thin wire. And as the branch grows, the wire will tighten and cut the branch itself.
It is better to direct the secateurs with a thin blade towards the shoot being cut.
In order for the branch to heal faster, it must be cut in such a way as not to leave stumps, but at the same time, so that the cuts are not so deep. This technique is called "on the ring."
Experts recommend that before cutting thick branches, you must first make a small incision from below, and then cut off from above. In this way, the peeling of the bark in the area of \u200b\u200bthe cut is prevented.
A long and large branch must be removed in several passes.

As you can see, autumn pruning is a very useful moment in pear cultivation. It is at the same level as watering and fertilizing.

And, despite the fact that the opinions of gardeners differ on the question: “when is it better to prune in autumn or spring,” experts still recommend doing it in the fall, since there are still no big cold weather, and proper pruning will prepare the tree for future frosts.

Pear trees not only give us a harvest of delicious, juicy, useful fruits, but also decorate the garden with openwork flowering in spring. But in order for the plant to be strong and healthy, you need to provide it with good care, an important part of which is proper cropping. Beginning gardeners often believe that pear trees should only be pruned in the spring. This opinion is erroneous; it turns out that pruning can be done at almost any period, it is only important to know the basic rules.

Why pear needs pruning

The pear belongs to horticultural crops in need of sunlight. She needs it for growth and fruiting, so pruning is needed, first of all, to thin out the crown. Regular removal of young shoots provides the tree with the opportunity to give all its strength to already formed branches. So everything useful material go to ensure the growth of fruits, which means that the harvest will be larger and better.

Proper pruning will rejuvenate the tree, form a crown and increase yields.

In my opinion, the point is not only that the pear should give as much juice as possible to the fruit. This tree grows very tall and spreading if not pruned. Not only will it shade neighboring plants, but it will also be extremely difficult to collect fruits, especially if you have to climb up. It is unlikely that there will be a good harvest on the beds planted nearby: the thick branches spread out to the sides do not give any vegetable culture no chance of getting enough sunlight. Here my neighbors did not cut their pear tree, it grew in breadth and height, shading the plot and showering it at the end of summer large quantity non-marketable fruits. True, in spring the tree blooms simply luxuriously. In addition, under such a crown it is good to relax on a hot day.

In addition, the tree may require sanitary pruning, namely the removal of diseased, frozen over the winter, dry and broken branches. Any damage to the branches can lead to plant disease over time, becoming a vulnerable place for bacteria, viruses and harmful insects to enter.

Rules for pruning pears for each season

Each period has its climatic features, and the development of the plant in spring, summer and autumn varies greatly. Therefore, when pruning in each of the seasons, you must strictly follow the rules.

Note! In winter, pruning is strictly not recommended. The cuts will not have time to heal, there is a high probability of death of branches from frost, which will affect the health of the entire tree.

spring pruning

After graduation severe frosts and before the start of the growing season (before the buds swell), you need to carry out spring pruning. Work should begin when the temperature reaches 5 °C.

Spring pruning should be done before the buds begin to bloom.

Before starting work, remember the basic rules that must be followed so as not to harm the tree and get the most positive result from it.

For work, use a pruner, after making sure that its blades are very sharp. Large branches are best cut with a hacksaw. Before and after trimming, be sure to disinfect the tools with alcohol-based products.
First of all, the crown is thinned out. So you will provide access to light and air in sufficient quantity for the tree.
The next is the shortening of the central trunk. It is recommended to cut it by about ¼ part. Due to this, the tree will not grow and a bowl-shaped crown will form.
All places where cuts were made should be lubricated with a protective substance as soon as possible. It can be Rannet, oil paint, garden pitch or drying oil. Runnet is also recommended to impregnate any damage on the surface of the wood.
Traditionally, pruning methods such as cutting into a ring and shortening branches are used. In the first case, the cut is made in the area where the branch grows from the trunk, at the very base, “under the ring”. To prevent the bark from lifting up, first make a cut at the bottom, and then cut the branch from the top side. The second method ensures the acceleration of the growth of lateral shoots and the awakening of the buds, which are located under the cuts.
Pear branches can grow both horizontally and vertically. It is recommended to remove vertical shoots, and provide horizontal support with a prop if necessary. In addition, it is imperative to cut branches growing in the downward direction: their productivity is too low.
When pruning in the spring season, you do not need to feed the pear nitrogen fertilizers: Now she gets enough nutrition from the ground.

If spring pruning is done correctly, by the next season all cuts will heal, the tree will be healthy and ready for harvest.

Video: rules for pruning pear trees in spring

summer pruning

AT summer period pruning for pear trees consists of pinching, or tweezing. This is the name of the removal of shoots extending from the top of the plant. You can easily pinch with your nails, and if you need to remove most of the young branch, use a pruner.

For tweezing, we spend much more time than for pruning. But this procedure, as experience has shown, really has a very good effect on the plant: as a result of it, nutrients from the soil are used sparingly and evenly. I think this is because, thanks to pinching, the growth of the shoot stops, and it is achieved optimal length. At the same time, in the spring of next year, we shorten the one-year-old shoot, removing a significant part of it, for the growth of which useful substances were spent.

Pinching can be done in different dates during the summer, and depending on the time, the plant may react differently.

pear pruning in summer season can be done if the young shoots have thickened the crown too much

Pinching carried out in June, during active vegetation, will delay the growth of shoots. Due to this, premature, summer shoots are formed faster from axillary buds, and nearby weakened branches will get stronger and enhance growth. Leaf buds will turn into fruit buds. But remember that pinching in this period can have a bad effect on the vegetation of the tree and its wintering.

If you pinch at the end of July, when the growth of the shoots ends, then you can achieve an improvement in the ripening of the shoots and better development axillary kidneys.

Video: rules for pruning pear trees in summer

autumn pruning

The optimal time for the last autumn pruning of the year lasts from the last decade of August to mid-September. It is used on early and mid-ripening pear varieties.

Video: rules for pruning pear trees in the fall

Rules for the formation of the crown of a pear tree

If you have not grown pears before, then you probably think that pruning the old and young plant- the same process. This is a misconception; in fact, each tree age has its own pruning rules for crown formation and healthy branch development.

Pear pruning scheme

There is certain rules pruning the plant from the moment of planting until the beginning of fruiting. They also include crown formation schemes. To prevent pruning from becoming stressful for the tree and causing its death, use the following materials and tools:

All tools must be sharpened and disinfected before use. In addition, you will need garden pitch or oil paint to cover up the cuts.

Pruning a pear seedling after planting

As soon as you plant a pear seedling, you need to make the first, main pruning, which has 2 goals at once:

In the autumn of the first year of growth, the tree will not need pruning, since it was carried out when planting in the spring. When you follow all the rules, at the first stage you will provide a pear good conditions for healthy crown growth and formation. You will only need to remove damaged shoots if necessary.

Pruning an annual and young pear

A one-year-old seedling that was planted last year needs to cut the trunk by at least a quarter of the total length (25%). This will help the crownplants become more branched. Also shortened and side shoots, but they are pruned to the first kidney.

After another year of the life of the tree, the top of the trunk should be shortened by 25–30 cm, and all branches of the tree by 6–8 cm. In order for the crown to form correctly, the lower branches must remain longer than the upper ones. This pyramid-like crown shape is considered one of the best for pear fruiting.

After all these stages of pruning, follow the rules for caring for a pear plant. They are as follows:

The formation of tiers in a pear seedling

A year after the planting, the pear tree has already taken root and fully adapted. At this time, you need to start the process of crown formation, which lasts three seasons and consists of several stages.

There are 5 types of crown shape for a pear:

sparse-tiered;
improved longline;
fusiform;
bowl-shaped;
semi-flat.

The shape used to trim the branches will depend on the choice of shape.

There are different opinions about which crown shape is best. For example, a sparse-tiered form is recommended for beginners in gardening - it is easier to implement and allows you to subsequently correct some mistakes made during pruning. Gardeners with more experience, on the contrary, argue that the most practical are the fusiform and bowl-shaped forms. The first one is great for small plot, on which the pears are close to each other, the second greatly facilitates the collection of fruits.

Sparse-tiered form

Despite its simplicity, the sparse-tiered crown scheme requires a careful approach. Let's consider it in more detail.

In order to form a crown according to this scheme, in the first year of growth, the pear seedling must be cut to a height of 80 cm. If the tree has not reached the desired length, it is not worth cutting off the top.
The second year is the period of stem formation (trunk to the level of lower branches). To do this, all branches below 50 cm from the soil level are cut from the central conductor. It is necessary to leave the 3 strongest side branches extending from the trunk at an angle of 45 °, and the central shoot. The rest of the branches are cut off.
Lateral shoots are pruned so that their length does not exceed 50–60 cm. Subsequently, branches of the second order above the lower tier will be formed on them. They should grow at a distance of 40–50 cm from the trunk. The branches left as skeletal (main, extending from the trunk) branches that have not grown longer than 50 cm are cut to a length of 35 cm. The central conductor should be 20–30 cm higher than the branches of the tier. If the conductor is weak, not exceeding the diameter of the skeletal branches in thickness, it should rise 40 cm above the pruning line.
In the third year, in the spring, young shoots should be left, the length of which is 25–40 cm (they will become fruitful). Skeletal branches, if necessary, shorten up to 50 cm. Branches with a diameter more thickness the conductor must be cut "on the ring".
If in the third year of growth the height of the pear is 2.5–3 m, it is necessary to limit the growth of the tree. This is done by transferring "to the side branch": the conductor is cut at the chosen height above the young side branch.

So, pear tree, the crown of which is formed according to the principle of a sparse-tiered scheme, consists of:

The space between the tiers should be 50–60 cm. Leave branches for the skeleton at an angle of 45–60 ° from the main conductor. Please note that they should not interfere with the access of light to each other. To ensure this, check the angle of divergence between such branches: it must be at least 120 °. Semi-skeletal branches are recommended to be left only at the lower level.

Video: how to form a sparse-tiered crown on a fruit tree

Improved Tiering

This method is similar to the previous one. The only difference is that you need to leave more skeletal branches. So in lower tier there will be 4 skeletal branches, and in order to lay the second tier, you need to leave 5-6 buds. Of these, over time, strong healthy shoots will appear, half of which will become the frame of the tier. So the pear will have two levels 50-60 cm apart with 6-8 frame branches.

The lower tier - 3–4 frame branches, the second tier - 2–3 frame branches, the third tier is absent, two single branches are left above the second tier.
Lower tier - 3–4 frame branches; the second tier - 2-3 frame branches, the third tier - 2 frame branches, 1-2 single branches are left above the third tier.

spindle crown

At professional gardeners the formation of a fusiform crown is very popular. Fruiting in trees with such a crown begins early, and the yield increases. This is due to good ventilation and illumination of the branches.

Feature of the spindle-shaped scheme - in in large numbers semi-skeletal branches. By the garter method they are given horizontal position. The branches are placed spirally, between them a distance of 2–4 shoot buds is observed.

Experienced gardeners most often choose a spindle-shaped crown.

This scheme has a drawback: the lower branches sag, making it difficult to care for the soil around the trunk and clean the trunk. To avoid these troubles, you need to leave branches up to 1.5 m long in the lower tier, growing at an angle of 50–60 °. Those branches that grow higher should have a horizontal direction.

Video: rules for the formation of a spindle-shaped crown

bowl crown

This type of crown is also called vase-shaped. The scheme is referred to as a leaderless formation, in which the skeletal branches grow at the same level (tier) on a stem 50 cm high.

In the first growing season, the central conductor is cut out. In this case, 3-4 frame branches remain, equidistant from each other. Each has 2 taps of the second level and 3-4 of the third level.

The bowl-shaped crown is very convenient for harvesting.

The bowl-shaped crown is well lit by the sun from all sides, besides, it is very convenient when harvesting. The disadvantages include the fragility of the skeletal branches, which easily break under the weight of the fruit. But on the other hand, such trees have less susceptibility to fungal diseases.

Semi-flat crown

This scheme is recommended for use on pears grafted onto medium-sized rootstocks. Also often a semi-flat crown is formed on small areas, where fruit trees are planted near fences and buildings due to lack of space.

Pears with a semi-flat crown - a good option for a small area

The semi-flat crown is characterized by the presence of 4–6 skeletal branches located relative to the stem at an angle of 45–55°. The bottom row consists of two branches growing mirror to each other. Optimal distance between them should be 20 cm. Above, several next tiers are formed, each of which has 2 skeletal branches. For vigorous varieties of pears, an inter-tier distance of 100 cm is considered optimal, for medium-sized ones - 70–80 cm.

Pear pruning for replacement knot

The replacement pruning method is usually used on grapes, but is also often used on fruit trees, including pears. Its purpose is to form a fruit link, consisting of one or more fruit branches and a replacement knot directly. He must stay outside below fruit branch so that when pruning, the fruiting shoot lengthens slowly.

Pruning a pear for replacement consists in pruning a part of the shoots on which flower buds are located, a third or a quarter of the length for fruiting, and all the rest for growth, leaving 2–3 buds. As a result of this procedure, 2 shoots are formed from the remaining buds on shortly cut branches. The first, in turn, is also cut off for fruiting, the second is also short for replacement. When a long branch ceases to bear fruit, it is removed.

Proper pruning on a knot of replacement will help form new fruit shoots

Replacement knots are located below those that were cut for fruiting. So branches with fruits will not shift to the outer part of the crown.

After reading a lot of information about the replacement knot, I concluded that on fruit trees, especially pear trees, such pruning can be done no earlier than the fourth year. At this time, the crown is already, as a rule, formed, and the tree will soon begin to bear fruit. But still, pruning for a replacement knot is a troublesome business. It really applies to grapes: vines are easier to deal with. But with fruit trees, whose crowns consist of many branches, you have to tinker. In our garden, we decided to no longer practice pruning for a replacement branch with respect to pears: there are a lot of worries, but we did not notice any special result. Nothing better or worse than other types of pruning. But maybe it was necessary to work with this method for a couple more years?

How to rejuvenate an old pear with pruning

For the plant to recover healthy growth and fruiting, it may require anti-aging pruning. It must be remembered that for an old fruitful pear, improper pruning can be fatal.

Such rejuvenation activities will be especially useful if you inherited a penny garden from a previous owner who did not take care of the plants. In this case, pears can be tall and thickened, but do not bring a good harvest. It is enough to shorten the tree by cutting off its top.

By pruning an old pear, you will rejuvenate the tree and return it to fruiting

For well-groomed old pears with a height suitable for picking fruits, rejuvenation should be carried out starting with thinning the crown. This is done at the end of winter or with the onset of the first spring heat, before the buds swell. The optimal period is considered to be when the air temperature is about 0 ° C.

First of all, cut branches with signs of disease and freezing. You also need to remove broken and dried branches that will no longer bear fruit. This will help you to correctly estimate the volume further work, and the crown will subsequently be better illuminated by the sun.
The next step is to remove excess shoots that grow parallel to the crown or at an acute angle. Next, competitor shoots that grow too close to healthy, fruit-bearing skeletal branches are cut off.
Some of the remaining shoots can be shortened by a quarter of the length if you see the need (for example, they are too long, which can make harvesting difficult).
After completing all anti-aging pruning activities, treat all cuts with garden pitch or oil paint, which is better kept on the tree at low temperatures.

Rejuvenation, carried out according to the rules, will save the old pear from felling. After this, the tree may not give the expected yield for 1-2 years, but over time you will get a good result.

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