Scheme of connection of the socket of the chandelier and the switch. Rules for connecting two lighting lamps to one switch. Connection to junction box

During overhaul or the construction of an object, you need to think in advance about where the lighting fixtures and switches will be located. If you have already decided on their location, then it's time to think about how to put it all together and make it work correctly and properly for many years.

Installation and connection of electrical installation devices, that is, and, is carried out only when the mains is turned off.
The electrical wire is laid only in a straight line, both in horizontal and vertical directions.
If the building is wooden, then it is laid on top of the wall. Direct contact of the electrical wire and the wall surface is not allowed. It is wound up either in, or mounted on special insulators, which are made of non-conductive materials.
In stone buildings, brick, panel, monolithic houses, electrical wiring is laid under the plaster.

The electrical wire consists of current-carrying conductors and a sheath. There can be two or more lived in an electric wire. Usually use two and three-core. One of the cores serves to create a continuous network. No voltage is applied to it. It is called the empty or zero phase. The remaining cores are called working phases or cores. She or they supply electricity to electrical appliances.

Tools and materials for installation

What materials and tools do we need to install and connect the switch to the light bulb?

Switch.
Electric wire. In our case, it does not matter which electrical wire will be used, copper or aluminum. But, if the entire electrical network of an apartment or house is made of copper wire, then you need to install copper. If aluminum, then aluminum.
distribution boxes. They are used for laying electrical connections. Don't be afraid to bet. When using boxes, the probability of breaking the integrity of the connections is reduced, which means that the risk of a short circuit is reduced.
. We will need it to determine in the electrical wire, to check the presence of current in the network.
Wire cutters. They will be needed to cut the wire.
Pliers. With their help, stronger twists of wires are made.
Insulating tape and gray. Wire connections, bare ends must be insulated. They are wrapped with electrical tape, then put on a PPE connection. It is a cap and ensures a secure connection.
fastening element. When working on wooden surfaces clamps are needed. With their help, the corrugation is attached to the wall. When installing the wire on stone surface you will need clips, clamps, screws, dowels. But the most reliable fastener is still considered to be a strip cut from an aluminum can with a nail in the middle.
Socket box. Represents steel or made of polymer materials glass-shaped device. A socket box is designed for installing a switch or socket.
Perforator. It will be needed in order to open the plaster, in other words, to pierce, to make holes. If the switch is placed in a new place or for the first time, then you will also need a cutter the size of the bottom of the socket. With its help, a hole is made in the wall, into which a socket is then placed.

We determine the type of switch we need

The design of the switch is a housing in which a block with current-receiving elements and an interrupting device are installed. The most commonly used key interrupt device. There can be one or more keys in the switch. Basically, one and two key switches are used.

There are several types of switches:

Key switches
. They are exactly the same as the keyboards.
Touch
Pulse
and impulse switches

There is no need to describe each device separately. Since installation does not have them fundamental differences from installation single-gang switch. We need it to connect the light bulb. Let's go back to its design.

The block of such a switch is equipped with two contacts and one interrupt key. The design may include a mechanism for fixing the block in the socket. Usually it consists of two metal petals, the position of which is adjusted with screws. In the free position, the petals are lowered, in the open position they rest against the walls of the box.

Explanation of wiring diagram for easier understanding

Let's describe the connection diagram of a switch that works with one lighting device, in our case with a light bulb. I must say that the switch is always placed on the working core, phase. That is, it interrupts the supply of electricity to the light bulb. Leaving it under constant load is dangerous.

The wires of the general apartment electrical network, the wires coming from the switch and the wires that come from the bulb's electric cartridge are brought into the junction box. One of the wires of the cartridge is connected to the neutral conductor of the general electrical network, the second to the residential wire coming from the switch. The second core of the switch wire is connected to the working phase of the general electrical network. Thus, the working conductor of the cartridge is connected to the working residential electrical network through a switch. When the switch is turned on, the load is applied to the light bulb, when it is turned off, it is interrupted.

Marking the places of installation of electrical appliances

Before the beginning installation work you need to mark how the switch will be located, the electrical wire on the wall, ceiling, where the light bulb will be installed. Perhaps it will not stand on the ceiling, but on one of the walls. The switch is placed near the door leading to the room, at a distance of about 30 cm. If the room is a walk-through, then near the doorway leading to adjoining room, approximately at a distance of 25 - 30 cm. The switch can be installed at a height from the floor, ranging from 30 cm to 1.6 m.

If we mount an additional light bulb on the wall, then the switch is placed at the level of the sockets. After we have marked the location of the switch, we draw a straight line up to the ceiling. In this place you will need to put a junction box. Mark the center of the room on the ceiling. A block will be installed here, on which a wire with an electric cartridge is installed. From it we draw a straight line to the wall with a switch.

We lead another line along the wall to the place where the junction box will stand. By the way, at the junction of the wires running along the wall and along the ceiling, you also need to install a junction box. Then we measure the length of the wire, cut the segments and proceed to installation.

We carry out the installation of the switch with our own hands

Installation begins with the installation of the switch. If we mount it on a wooden surface, then first a plate is placed, made of a material that does not conduct electricity, for example, plastic or well-dried wood. Then the junction box is installed. Then we connect the wire to the switch, we wind it into the corrugation and fasten it to the wall.

On the ceiling we install a special block that has two current-receiving contacts. It is also installed on the plate. In the future, a wire with a light bulb will be connected to this block. A piece of wire intended for the ceiling is wound into a corrugation and led to a wall with a switch. On the wall we start it in a separate junction box. We take another piece of wire, enclose it in a corrugation and lead to the main junction box. Naturally, we fasten all segments with the wall and ceiling.

Then we connect a wire with an electric cartridge and a light bulb to the block on the ceiling. Typically, these pads are equipped with a screw connection. End bare wire can be inserted with a terminal and then pressed with a bolt. It can also be connected directly with a bolt, that is, the ends of the wires are wound around the bolt and pressed against it. Next, twist the ends of the wires in the first junction box. For a tighter twist, you can use pliers.

We carefully isolate the twists and cover with sizami. Then we turn off the power supply and open the ends of the common electrical network. We turn on the electricity again. We find with the help of electricity indicator screwdriver zero phase of the common network. When touching the working core, the screwdriver indicator lights up. When touching zero - no. We mark the zero phase and turn off the electricity.

Connection of wires in the junction box

We put all the ends into the junction box, that is, the wires of the general network, the wires of the switch and the wires of the light bulb. . One end of the wire from the light bulb is connected to the neutral core of the common network, the second - to one of the ends of the switch wire. The remaining free end of the switch wire is connected to the working core of the general network.

We twist all connections tightly with pliers and isolate with electrical tape. On top of the connections we put on the siz. We connect electricity. Turn on, check. If the light comes on, close the boxes and use. If not, check connections. O possible malfunctions we'll talk a little lower.

Features of installing wires under plaster

Installation of a switch in a stone building has some differences from installation in a wooden house. Electrical wiring in such buildings is laid under the plaster. If the switch is mounted on a plastered wall, then it is ditched, that is, with the help of a perforator, a channel is laid in the plaster for laying the wire and installing the socket box. The plaster is removed before stone wall. All other steps for installation on a plastered wall are exactly the same as on a non-plastered wall.

Laying electricians in concrete walls without plaster

If the installation is carried out on a bare, non-plastered wall, then first, using a puncher equipped with a cutter, a recess is made for installing the socket box. It is fastened in this recess with dowels or alabaster. The wire is attached to the wall using clamps, clips, or using the homemade fasteners described above. Fasteners do not need to be sorry. You need to put it at a distance of no more than 20 cm from each other. Junction boxes are also attached to the wall with self-tapping screws and dowels.

Gutters in slabs - electrician's assistants

Floor slabs in stone houses have grooves inside. The electrical wire to the light bulb placed on the ceiling goes along one of these gutters. To do this, two holes are punched using a perforator. One is at the point where the wire enters the slab. The other is in the place where the block for mounting the cartridge and light bulb will be located. The block, to which the electric cartridge with the bulb will be attached, is placed on the plate.

If the plate is wooden, then it is simply glued to the surface of the ceiling. If it is made of other materials, then it is either glued or fastened to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. The case is removed from the switch, connected to the wire and fixed in the socket. To do this, there is a mounting mechanism on the switch block. The bolts in the mechanism are tightened so that the switch stands firmly in the socket and does not swing.

Then twist all connections, isolate them. Then they mark the zero core of the common network and turn off the electricity. Next, connect the switch and the light bulb to the common network according to the above scheme. Zero core working network connects to the zero phase of the light bulb. The ends of the wire of the switch are connected to a working residential common network and from a working residential light bulb. Carefully isolate and turn on electricity. Turn on the switch and check. Lights up, you can use it. No, we're checking connections. After the installation is completed, the surfaces are plastered.

Before the beginning plastering works the switch is removed. Put it finally after finishing the surface of the wall. At the time of its implementation, the bare ends are isolated. And the socket is closed with something.

Installing a light bulb on the wall

The installation of a switch for a light bulb mounted on a wall does not fundamentally differ from the installation described above. If there is no installed junction box and wire on the wall, then you will have to pull it from the common junction box. And the wiring diagram is the same. We put the box, we put wires into it from the general network, the switch and wall fixture, we connect the light bulb to the zero residential common network, the switch from the working residential light bulb and the common network. After the installation is completed, the corrugation in which the wire is laid should be closed with a decorative box.

Possible malfunctions

If after installation the light does not light up, then it is possible that the wires are badly twisted. You need to check the connections. For this, there is no need to check each. You need to start with the wires included in the switch. We take an indicator screwdriver and check whether electricity is supplied to the switch. Touch the screwdriver to the ends of the wire entering the switch in turn. If the indicator is off, then there is a problem with the connection to the public network.

Once again, we twist the wires connecting the working phases of the switch and the general network, having previously turned off the electricity. Let's check again. If current is supplied, and the light is still off, then the fault is either in the switch or in the rest electrical circuit.

If the switch is working, then the indicator should light up when you touch both of its contacts. If the indicator lights up only on one of the contacts, then the switch is faulty. It is better to replace it immediately. A defective item will not work for a long time. If the switch is OK, check each connection until we find the fault.

Detailed explanation in video format

Any household electrical wiring implies the presence in it of such familiar elements as a lamp, a switch, and. Based on the seeming simplicity of their connection, many people install them on their own and often ignore the basic installation rules.

Most often, errors are made when installing elements of the electrical network combined in one housing. And since recently many homeowners have increasingly had a desire to save space and time due to such a combination, this topic should be considered in more detail.

Twin designs have become especially popular in last years with the development of new principles for the optimal organization of technological space of premises.

Previously, while there was no need to combine together within one housing different functional elements of the electrical network, the wire connection of the socket and the switch was carried out in a separate location, and the indicated elements themselves were “carried” to the places that were intended for them according to the project.

Now this electrical connection possible and it demonstrates certain functional benefits before split.

Among its advantages are the following:

The pair is distinguished by a simpler connection scheme due to no need to run separate wires to every consumer.
United in one body, they are lighter mounted on any surface(stone, wood, plasterboard, concrete). At the same time, the number of mounting holes and grooves for wiring will be minimal.
Easier layout of the installation site– its parameters are common for both components.
In one device, you can combine more expensive and quality products with cheaper components (unless, of course, there is a practical need for this).

The system has a switch along with a socket and their shortcomings. But there are so few of them that most often it is possible to remember the only significant minus. So, if even one of the elements fails, most likely, the entire unit will have to be replaced.

Learn from this video how, using the connection diagram, you can connect a block switch (combined, double, built-in,) with a socket in one housing:

Varieties, designs and average prices

When choosing one or another electrical component, one should proceed from:

technical parameters and capabilities of the power grid;
functionality of the product (depending on how many and what power appliances will be connected);
its design (shape, color, etc.).

All these purchase issues must be resolved almost simultaneously, although technical specifications and functionality still go a little ahead.

Today, the electrical industry produces products with the most different combinations elements. The consumer can choose products depending on the number of sockets, switches and keys in the switch in the assembly.

It should also be remembered that There are indoor and outdoor sockets.: the former are used for hidden wiring, the latter for. outdoor option looks more bulky, but it can not be dispensed with if it is impossible or difficult to mount in the room concealed wiring.

Before buying it is necessary find out how many electrical appliances and light sources will be connected to the network in this room. If you plan to install a socket with a switch during wet room(bathroom, shower, bath, etc.) or outdoors, you need to make sure that special protective covers (curtains) are available.

As for price indicators, they vary depending on the type of product, manufacturer and place of sale.

For example, a paired socket and 1-key switch can be bought for less than 200 rubles. average cost 2-key package with Euro socket for powering devices up to 3.5 kW can be approx. 300 rubles. A similar but waterproof model can cost up to 450 rubles. The power single-key version for three sockets will most likely cost the buyer already more than 1000 rubles.

Installation

If the master decides to self-installation, he does not need to have any special specialized tool. It is enough that he had:

Preliminary preparation for all structural variants of these blocks is as follows.

Need to turn off the power. Appropriate markings are made at the place chosen on the wall. AT right points mounting holes are drilled in the wall with a crown, after which a niche is made (with hidden wiring). Perforated holes for cables break out on the box body.

Single key block

The socket combined with a 1-gang switch in one housing is the most popular. The connection of such a pair occurs as follows (diagram 1):

two-wire () connects to the junction box.
A double wire connects the light source to the junction box.
3 wires from the twin socket-switch are brought into the box.
It is necessary to make sure that from the phase terminal in the box the wire goes to the socket terminal, and from the socket to one of the contacts of the switch.
The lighting device connected to the junction box is connected with one of its wires to "zero", and with the other it goes to the free terminal of the switch.
If grounding is provided in the Eurostandard block, it must be connected to the ground terminal in the box.

Two-key device

When installing such a unit, it becomes possible, in addition to connecting any consumers through a socket, control the light in at least two different rooms or different light sources in the common room.

To perform such an installation (diagram 2), you must do the following:

From the junction box, 5 wires are connected to the twin unit.
Only the neutral wire and the ground wire are connected to the outlet.
"Phase" on the double switch is supplied through a special jumper in the switching unit.
2 free wires are connected to 2 switching terminals of the switch.
In the distribution box, twists are made from the wires supplying the "phase" and the wires going to the lamps in different rooms.

We bring to your attention the connection diagram in the junction box of a two-gang switch and two sockets:

Whatever configuration the master chooses, he must thoroughly study and work out before starting installation circuit diagram all leads and connections.

Eventually correct installation a socket connected to a switch is not only a high-quality work of electrical appliances, but also the safety of a house and a person.

Light switch wiring diagram, as a rule, causes difficulties for many unprepared people, although, in principle, there is nothing complicated in it. I will try to convince you of this.

This article provides detailed step by step photo instructions, which step by step dismantled the complete process of mounting and connecting the circuit, as well as connecting its main elements.

The main misunderstanding is the lack good example. After all, what do we have in fact, trying to understand the circuit and at least roughly understand the principle of its structure? There is a junction box under the ceiling, in which there are a bunch of incomprehensible connections, a switch near the door, a chandelier or lamp on the ceiling, and all the wires are hidden under a thick layer of plaster. Figuring out what goes where and how it all works is quite difficult. That is why, in this article, we approached this issue so seriously, analyzing in detail the entire installation from the very beginning to the end. By reading this manualschemelight switch connection won't cause you any problems.

Lighting control

Before we look at the instructions, it should be noted that there are a lot of various devices lighting control. Below is a list of the most common:

single-key light switch (its circuit is discussed in this article);
two-gang switch Sveta;
three-key light switch;
dimer;
switch with motion (presence) sensor;
single-key through passage light switch (switch);
two-key through passage light switch (switch).

The choice of a lighting control device occurs individually for each specific case, since any of the devices presented in the list above has its own functional features. A more detailed description, purpose and connection of each of the devices can be found in the corresponding instructions presented on our website.

Installation of pre-installation elements of the single-key switch circuit

Any scheme begins with a junction box. It is in it that all the necessary wires will soon be collected, the cores of which will be connected to each other in a certain sequence, creating a single-gang switch circuit.

AT this example the method of making hidden wiring is shown, in a compact form you lead what is usually under the plaster. For hidden and open wiring, the circuit for connecting the switch is the same.

We mount the socket, it is the basis for mounting the socket or switch mechanism.

More installation details given element schemes are presented on our website in the following instructions, and.

Now, let's add a circuit breaker, it performs the function of protecting the electrical circuit from overload currents and short circuits, it is usually installed in the power panel.

For a complete picture, we lack the last element of the circuit - a lamp, we will install it a little later, and now we are moving on to the next step.

Laying the wires required to complete the one-button switch circuit

It's time for the wiring. In our example, a wire of the VVGngP 3 * 1.5 brand is used, three-core, with a cross section of 1.5 mm, designed for stationary wiring inside residential and non-residential premises.

You can read more about this brand of wire in the article, "".

Let's start the installation by laying the wire from the junction box to the socket.

In the junction box and the socket, it is necessary to leave a supply of wire for connection, 10-15 centimeters will be enough.

Now, we are laying next wire, from the junction box to the luminaire.

The next wire will complete the circuit, it is designed to supply power to the circuit breaker, it goes from the electricity meter or introductory machine to the upper contacts of the machine that goes to a specific group or direction.

Attention! If you already have a supply wire and there is voltage on it, then before conducting all electrical work it needs to be disabled. After turning off, without fail you need to make sure that it is not on the wire, the easiest way to perform this action is to use a voltage indicator. If necessary, you can use detailed instructions on the use given on our website in the article.

We proceed to the next stage of the implementation of the scheme, connecting the equipment.

Connecting a protection, control and lighting device

Let's start by connecting a protection device that will protect the circuit from overloads and short circuit currents. In our example, this role is played by a two-pole circuit breaker.

Also, devices such as, and voltage limiters are used as circuit protection devices. You can get to know these devices better, find out how they work and what they are intended for by clicking on the appropriate links.

Before starting the installation, it is necessary to determine the color of the wires. Our wire is blue, black and yellow with a green stripe. blue wire always used for zero, yellow with green stripe ground, white phase.

Using a knife, carefully remove the first protective insulating layer.

Now filming required amount insulation with phase and neutral conductors for connection, approximately 1 cm.

We insert the stripped wire into the contact terminals and tighten the clamping screws. We check the reliability of fixing the wire by pulling it up from the contact clamp and shaking it to the left, to the right. If the wire remains motionless, the contact is good.

Similarly, we connect the outgoing wires to the junction box. Be sure to observe the color scheme of the wires, if on the suitable contacts of the machine on top, zero was on the right, then on the bottom on the outgoing contacts it should be on the right. Accordingly, the phase will be on the left.

Please note that the color of the wire on the outgoing wires has changed slightly, the phase wire has become completely white. Various manufacturers the cores of the wires are colored differently, the phase and ground wires are most often subject to changes, zero is invariably blue. I would recommend for ease of installation, in order not to get confused, use a wire from one manufacturer.

We remove the first outer insulation, measure the required amount of wire needed to connect to the machine, clean it and connect it. We check the reliability of the fastening of the wire in contact terminals If everything is ok, we move on.

We remove the insulating layer from each core.

We connect the wires to the contacts of the circuit breaker.

In our example, a three-wire wire is used, and this is no coincidence, the fact is that this wire is universal. For example, now you want to hang a lamp in the room that is turned on by a single-gang switch, but time will pass and making another repair in 3 years, you will want to hang not a lamp, but a chandelier. To connect it, you will need another switch, a two-key one, and for it you need not a double, but triple wire. Having a three-wire wire in the junction box, you can easily change the circuit by making just one additional twist. Also, if necessary, the third wire can be used as. This option is suitable if you install a lamp with a metal case in a room with high humidity, a ground contact on such lamps is usually provided.

To connect the ground wire, we use a special contact clamp.

We measure the required amount of wire, clean and connect. We check the reliability of the contact connection.

We do the same on the outgoing contact.

The circuit breaker is connected. All the wires needed to complete the circuit are in the junction box.

We turn to the connection of the lamp. In our case, a cartridge with a light bulb is installed. We prepare the wires for connection, remove the outer insulation, measure the required amount of wire for connection.

We clean the phase and zero conductors for connection.

In the case of a light bulb and a cartridge, the ground wire is not needed, we isolate it and bend it to the side. When connecting a lamp or chandelier, do the same, you do not need to cut it off, it may come in handy in the future.

We connect the wires to the cartridge.

Now our circuit has almost acquired the proper form, to complete the picture we execute.

We clean the wires, remove the required amount of external insulation.

We do not need a ground wire, we isolate it and put it in the socket. We remove the insulation from the copper conductor of the phase and neutral wires.

Our one-button switch has plug-in contacts, this will greatly facilitate our connection.

The contact of the suitable phase is indicated by the letter "L", and the outgoing arrow is down.

We connect the white wire to the appropriate contact, the blue one to the outgoing one.

It remains to install the mechanism in the socket (mounting glass) and switch connection is completed.

Read more about how other electrical wiring elements are mounted (sockets, double switches, illuminated light switches, lamps and chandeliers), you can see .

Our scheme has general form, all necessary equipment connected.

Let's move on to connecting the wires in the junction box.

We analyze in detail the connection diagram, how to connect a light bulb and a switch

Let's go through the wires again.

Power wire on the left.

The wire suitable from above goes to the lamp (chandelier). In our example, on a cartridge with a light bulb.

The bottom wire goes to the switch.

We start desoldering the circuit for connecting the switch with the wire going to the switch. We clean it, remove the first layer of insulation. It is not necessary to cut the wire strongly, at least 10 cm of each wire should remain in the box.

We remove the insulation from the copper core of the phase and neutral wires, about 4 cm.

We pass to the wire that goes to the lamp. We remove the upper insulation, we clean 4 cm each on the phase and neutral wires.

Now we can start connecting the wires.

Zero to the bulb comes directly from the supply wire, and the phase is made into a gap. The switch will break it, when the power button is pressed, it will close the circuit and supply the phase to the light bulb, when it is turned off, it will open and the phase will disappear.

We connect the phase white wire going to the light bulb, with the outgoing blue wire of the switch.

Exist different kinds wire connections, in our example, the connection is made by the most in a simple way, twist. First, twist the wires together with your fingers.

Then we stretch the connection with the help of pliers tightly twist both cores together.

We bite off the uneven tip of the twist.

In this scheme, we do not use ground wires, so we isolate them and lay them in a junction box so as not to interfere.

Now let's move on to the power wire. We clean it and prepare the phase and neutral wires for connection.

We isolate the ground wire and put it in a junction box.

Now, we bring power to the switch. We connect the phase conductor of the supply wire to the phase conductor of the wire going to the switch. We twist two white wires.

And at the end of the circuit, we connect the zero conductor of the supply wire to the zero conductor of the wire going to the lamp (lamp).

The wiring diagram for a single-gang switch is ready.

Now, we need to test the scheme in action. We screw the light bulb into the socket.

We apply voltage. Turn on the circuit breaker.

Using a voltage indicator, we check the correct connection of the circuit, make sure that we have not confused anything, on phase wires there should be a phase, at zero zero.

And only after that turn on the switch.

The light is on, the circuit is connected correctly. We turn off the voltage, isolate the twists and put them in a junction box.

The installation of the circuit has been completed, the question of how to connect the light bulb and the switch has been disassembled and disclosed in detail.

In this work, we used:

Material

junction box - 1
socket box - 1
single key switch - 1
lamp - 1
wire (measured according to the specific measurements of your room)
circuit breaker - 1
ground contact - 1
insulating tape - 1

Tool

pliers
wire cutters
flathead screwdriver
crosshead screwdriver
voltage indicator

How much we saved by doing the wiring diagram with our own hands:

departure of a specialist - 200 rubles
installation of a junction box for internal installation - 550 rubles
mounting ceiling lamp- 450 rubles
socket box installation indoor installation (Brick wall, drilling, installation) - 200 rubles
installation of a single-gang indoor switch - 150 rubles
installation of a two-pole circuit breaker - 300 rubles
installation of a ground contact - 120 rubles
installation of wire open up to 2 meters (1 meter - 35 rubles), Let's take 2 meters as an example.- 70 rubles
installation of the wire openly above 2 meters (1 meter - 50 rubles), for example, take 8 meters - 400 rubles
wall chasing 8 meters (1 meter - 120 rubles) - 960 rubles

TOTAL: 3400 rubles

*The calculation is made for hidden wiring.

Content:

When installing standard electrical products, situations often arise when, for the convenience of further use, it is necessary to decide technical task how to connect a switch from an outlet. This operation is quite simple, it is enough to observe certain rules installation and electrical safety.

An important feature is the ability to connect switches with one or two keys from a socket. If necessary, several such blocks can be connected at once. It should be remembered that it is impossible to perform the reverse actions, that is, the socket cannot be connected from the switch for technical reasons. This is due to the fact that the outlet is more like a junction box, through which the phase and zero power wires also pass. The switch does not have such qualities and in the off state it will simply stop supplying power to the outlet.

Preparing for installation

For an example of such a connection, you can take a two-gang switch, to which two separate lamps are connected. This option is used most often. The socket and switch are installed in separate sockets located nearby. Requires tools and expendable materials: screwdrivers - Phillips and flat with to check the presence or absence of a phase, an electrician's knife to remove the insulation, as well as side cutters and a level.

It is also necessary to prepare a junction box where the wires will be connected. The connection is made with side cutters and pliers. Places of twists are isolated with electrical tape. If the installation is carried out on wooden surfaces, additional materials will be needed - corrugated tubes or metal strips. To install sockets and switches, socket boxes and installation boxes are used. It is advisable to take into account all the recommendations as much as possible, especially when you connect the switch from the outlet with your own hands.

In many cases, strobes are cut under the wiring using a puncher or wall chaser. Electric wires on a new site on their own technical specifications should be the same as in all other rooms. The cross section of the conductors is selected taking into account the power of the future load and the magnitude of the rated current. It is recommended to draw up a connection diagram for the socket and switch in advance, having previously determined the places for their installation.

Before starting work

You need to turn off the electricity with circuit breakers located in the electrical panel. If necessary, disconnections can be checked with an indicator screwdriver. After making sure that there is no electricity, you can start dismantling the old outlet if you plan to install a new device in its place. First, the case is disassembled, after which, using a screwdriver, the screws are unscrewed - the clamps of the legs that hold the mechanism inside. Next, the device is completely removed from the installation box. It remains only to loosen the terminal screws and disconnect the wires.

The wires in the sockets must be prepared, leaving the ends about 100 mm long. The protective braid is removed and the insulation of the cores is stripped to a distance of 1 cm. The conductors of the phase and zero must pass between the boxes. In order to determine their belonging, you need to turn on the electricity, power the network and use an indicator screwdriver.

Connecting mechanisms

First, the mechanical part of the outlet is connected. To do this, two phase wires are fixed in the left block, grounding is placed in the center, and two neutral wires are installed in the right block. After that, you need to tighten the clamping screws. The connected socket is installed in its socket box, where it is fixed with fixing screws, after which it is checked by level.

Further, as required by the connection diagram, in the socket for the switch, they are connected to each other neutral wires. It's best to use . The connected wires are neatly tucked inside the junction box. To connect the switch mechanism, the phase wire extending from the socket is fixed in the input block. The remaining two phase wires intended for fixtures are fixed in the blocks in accordance with the switch keys and tightened with fastening bolts. The finished mechanism is also installed in its socket box.

Upon completion of the installation, frames, switch keys and front panel sockets. After fixing them, an electric current is turned on and the operation of the devices is checked.

How to connect a single-gang switch from an outlet

Household light switches are a device that closes or opens a circuit. Due to this in right time one or another consumer of energy is connected or disconnected. They are most often used in conjunction with lighting fixtures- chandeliers, sconces, lamps, etc. Not only single-lamp, but also multi-lamp devices can be connected to a single-key switch.

Connectivity depends a lot on design features products. There are two types of switches used for outdoor or indoor wiring. The first are installed on brick or wooden walls and fasten with screws on the socket. AT modern conditions the second option is most commonly used. Installation of built-in switches is carried out in mounting box, which, in turn, is installed in a hole prepared in advance in the wall. In this case, when connecting a switch with one key from the outlet, hidden wiring is used, which is placed in pre-prepared strobes with subsequent puttying.

Reliability further work largely depends on right choice single switch. The calculated value of the current is applied to the working mechanism of the device. It should not be less than the amount of current consumed by the load. Another selection criterion is related to the level of humidity in the room. If this figure is high enough, it is recommended to purchase a special model.

It is recommended to prepare in advance places for installation, which are equipped depending on the installation method. For a product for flush wiring, you will need a junction box that is inserted into the wall, and when open method a socket box will be used, fixed with dowels and screws.

Having completed the preparation, you can start directly connecting the switch from the outlet according to the developed scheme. The stripped wires are fixed with screws in two terminal clamps. The stripping of insulation is carried out at a distance of 5-8 mm from the edge of the core. The polarity of the contacts can not be observed. phase wire coming from the outlet is installed in the gap of the switch. After that, the product is mounted inside the wall or on it. After laying the mechanism in the mounting box, it is necessary to evenly tighten the screws of the legs, which will gradually move apart and abut against the walls. A decorative strip is screwed to the fixed mechanism and a key is installed.

How to connect the lamp through the switch from the outlet

All preparatory work performed in the same order as in all other cases. The room must be de-energized in advance, and wires, sockets and switches are installed according to a pre-compiled scheme. Solving the problem of how to connect a light bulb with a switch from an outlet allows you to overcome many small technical problems. Such an installation saves wire, reduces installation time, and eliminates the need to make additional ones.

Connecting fixtures in this way has its own characteristics. First of all, it is necessary to adhere to the drawn up scheme and lay all the wires in the form of straight vertical or horizontal lines. AT wooden houses electrical network should not touch the walls, so the wires are installed on insulators. For laying lines in a hidden way strobes are required. AT reinforced concrete structures for these purposes, special channels are provided.

In order to connect the switch from the outlet to the light bulb, you will need wires with three or four cores that perform the functions of phase, zero and ground.

You don't have to be a jack-of-all-trades to hook up a light bulb and a switch. Whether it’s a light bulb and a switch in your apartment or the so-called “carrying” for a garage, the only difference is that for “carrying” you do not need to lay the wiring along the walls and ceiling and it is connected with a plug to an outlet.

markup

Popular wisdom says for good reason that you need to cut only when you have measured 7 times. Therefore, treat the markup with due attention, it is at this moment that you are mentally doing the work, which after that will only have to be brought to life.

We make notes in those places where there will be a light bulb and a switch. It should be noted that the switch is usually placed near the door at a height of 80-90 cm from the floor, that is, at the height of a freely lowered hand. But you should not take everything literally, if in your corridor all the switches are set to a height of 1.7 meters, then yours at 0.8 will clearly fall out of the picture. Make sure that when you open the door, it does not block the switch, it will not be convenient to use it. Also mark the routes for future wiring. The wiring must go from the switch to the junction box (or outlet, if you will power the circuit from it) and from the light bulb to the same junction box (socket). When marking, adhere to important rules: When wiring is located next to other walls and ceilings, indent from them about 20 centimeters. Make sure that the wires are located only horizontally and vertically, so that they bend at a right angle. Please note that in load-bearing walls strobes should be minimum depth and sizes. You should make sure that there is no old wiring in it, read.

Shredding (if needed)

Then comes the nasty process of shredding. So that your interior is not spoiled in the future by the wires laid over the wallpaper, they can be hidden in the walls, having previously made special recesses in the latter - strobes. I will not delve into this topic, because. in the article I want to focus on the electrical part of the issue. I will only note that in your case the walls can be either from different materials(concrete or drywall), and the switch can be internal, which must be deepened into the wall, or a consignment note. All this will directly affect the volume and method of gating. Without proper experience and tools, it is better to lay the cable over the walls, securing it with plastic brackets.

Wiring

Now we need a two-wire wire, which we lay in the grooves made in advance. It will be easiest to fix them there with a diluted solution of alabaster.

It should be remembered that this binder seizes very quickly, so you will have to act quickly. We cut off the wires with a margin, we will always have time to shorten them!

Cartridge and switch

When the wiring process is over, the switch itself and the cartridge should be connected. It will not be difficult, just remove five centimeters of primary insulation and strip the cores themselves by about a centimeter. Then place them in the connectors specially provided on the switch and the base, and squeeze with a screwdriver. There are only two contacts in the switch for one light bulb, so you can’t go wrong. When connecting the cartridge, the polarity does not matter, i.e. it doesn’t matter where you throw the phase, and where zero is, the light bulb will work. However, safety requires that the phase be on the central contact of the light bulb, and zero on the threaded one.

Wiring diagram

Connection to junction box

Now the most exciting process begins - connecting your wiring to the junction box. If you know where the source is electric current to which you can connect, then this is already good, otherwise the search for a junction box may be delayed.

To connect wiring directly to electrical panel use an additional machine and connect the cable to it. By the way, you can also power the circuit from the nearest outlet, this is not prohibited. If you planned to make a “carry”, then, of course, everything is decided by connecting the plug to the end of the wire.

To begin with, using an indicator screwdriver, we determine power wire(phase) and zero in the junction box or outlet. If you never held indicator screwdriver, then here. Was your electrician decent? Then they should match: brown or white - phase, and blue - zero. Old wiring, of course, does not contain colored wires and can look like anything. In this case, you will have to be guided only by the indications of the indicator screwdriver. If you do not have a special tolerance group (and most likely you do not, otherwise you would not be reading this article), it is strictly forbidden to work under open voltage! Therefore, you should unscrew the plugs, turn off the machines, and use the same indicator to make sure that the power wire is de-energized.

We power the switch through the phase, that is, we connect the power wire to the white or brown wire that comes from the switch, and connect zero to the blue wire that comes from the light bulb as in the diagram. The remaining white and blue wires that go, respectively, to the light bulb and the switch are interconnected. We carefully isolate all twists with electrical tape. If you want to expand your circuit by connecting an additional light bulb or, for example, adding an outlet, you can use a double or triple switch,.

twist aluminum and copper wires it is forbidden! This is an extremely unstable compound that quickly oxidizes and can not only fail, but also ignite. To connect such wires, use special terminal blocks. In the electrical store, they are presented in a wide range. According to the rules good manners and for safety reasons, try to use blocks instead of twisting wires everywhere.

If you did everything right, you can be proud of your work. If not ... well, finally call an electrician.

I really hope that the article will be useful for you and you will succeed. Perhaps I forgot to say something important that seems self-evident to me and completely incomprehensible to you. Therefore, I will wait for your comments below and will be happy to answer questions, supplement and correct the article if necessary. Thank you for your attention!

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