How to stain a tree. Wood stain processing: professional finishing algorithms Wood staining at home

Stain, as a coating of wooden surfaces, not only preserves wood, but also strengthens it. decorative properties. With the help of stain, inexpensive wood species can be turned into valuable exotic wood. Let's talk about how to properly stain a wooden surface.

How to choose the right stain

Stain, or, as it is also called, stain, is a finishing coating for wood, which, without painting over, favorably emphasizes its structure. It consists of a pigment and a base, which can be water, alcohol, oil. Recently, water stains based on acrylic resins. In addition to being decorative, they have the properties of a good antiseptic.

Another type of stain is wax. Thin film wax, which is formed when the surface is covered with stain, gives not only decorative effect natural wood, but also reliably protect it from water.

When choosing a stain, you must be guided by the following criteria:

1. Operating environment (outdoor or interior work). The composition of the stain for outdoor use includes pigments that are resistant to ultraviolet rays.
2. Composition safety. In children's rooms or children's household items, wood stains without harmful compounds are used. These include stains on a water, oil or wax basis.
3. Powdered or ready-made stain. Water and alcohol stains are also available in dry form. They need to be bred at home. If there is any doubt that the desired result will be obtained, then it is better to give preference to the finished stain.
4. The method of applying stain to the surface. Alcohol stains are best applied with a spray gun, as they dry very quickly, and it is difficult to achieve an even coating. Small objects and surfaces are covered with brushes, foam or fabric swabs. At large area finishes use a sprayer.
5. Design solution interior or exterior. It is important to know that the sample presented in the store often differs in color from what is obtained when finishing. The reason for this can be a different breed and structure of the tree, illumination. Even different production batches of the same type of stain have differences in shades when coated.

Sequence of work

Surface preparation

A high-quality finish is obtained only on a surface cleaned of dust, dirt and grease, without defects in wood processing. If the surface of the wood has already been painted with something, then old finish must be removed completely. conifers trees need to be tarred.

The cleaned surface is polished twice. First, this is done using a larger sandpaper (No. 120), then a smaller one (No. 220). Wood grinding is carried out only along the fibers. The resulting dust is removed with a damp cloth, and dirt with some solvent or alcohol.

It is possible to apply stain only on a clean and dry surface of the tree. In order not to make a mistake with the color of the coating, make a test paint. You need to take a small sample. First, cover it with one layer of stain, after complete drying, cover 2/3 of the sample with a second layer. The third layer should cover 1/3 of the wood piece. This will allow you to choose your favorite finish.

Application methods

With a brush, you can apply almost any stain to the prepared surface. Difficulties arise only with alcohol-based stains due to rapid drying. The vertical surface begins to be covered from below so that smudges are not absorbed by unpainted wood. This greatly improves the uniformity of the coating.

The second and subsequent layers can be applied after the previous one has dried. For oil-based stains, the drying process lasts up to 3 days, for water stains - up to 3 hours. The coating is applied along the grain of the wood. When painting the surface with a brush, it is important not to go into neighboring areas that have already been stained. This way you can avoid unwanted stains.

Stain on water based can lift the villi of the tree. After the first layer, wait for the stain to dry and sand the surface with sandpaper. Then remove the resulting dust and cover the surface with the next layer.

A swab is applied stain by rubbing. This method is only suitable for small surfaces. A tampon can be made from a piece of foam rubber or a dense fabric. Wax stains are applied with this method. It allows you to achieve a uniform surface coverage. This is especially true for rocks with a porous structure.

Spraying stain on a wooden surface is most often used for large areas of coverage. Alcohol-based stains dry quickly and it is difficult to avoid spotting during application, for example with a brush or swab. Spraying with an airbrush allows you to achieve high decorative quality finishes, regardless of the base of the stain.

Defects in work and ways to eliminate them

It is very important when applying the stain to avoid smudges, which are quickly absorbed into the wood and significantly impair the appearance of the finish. A small amount of stain on the brush and a thin layer of coating will avoid this defect.

You can remove unwanted stains from the stain with sandpaper, in a more difficult case - with a planer. You will have to act carefully, gradually removing the darkened area of ​​\u200b\u200bwood and smoothing out sharp transitions.

For porous wood species, in which the absorption of the coating occurs unevenly, it is better to use wax-based stains or gel stains. They cover the surface thin layer and do not penetrate deep into the structure of the tree. You can also treat the surface of the wood with a special conditioning compound that will prevent the stain from being actively absorbed.

The “apple” defect occurs when poor-quality pigment diluents or lack of skill in applying stain by spraying. Spots form on the surface covered with stain.

When applying the stain with an airbrush, in order to avoid coating defects, it is necessary to adjust the material supply torch. It should be oval in shape and the spray angle should be approximately 90°.

Coating defects can occur from poor-quality grinding of the wood surface. In this case, it is necessary to remove the layer and sand it again. Then cover the surface with stain.

The remaining stains of grease, dirt with poor cleaning will appear when applying stain. Here, too, it is necessary to remove the poor-quality layer by grinding, clean and degrease the surface. Apply a new coat of paint to clean, dry wood.

Making a stain with your own hands

There is a large number folk recipes making stains at home. Various shades of brown can be obtained by preparing a solution of ordinary potassium permanganate. You need to experiment a little to achieve the desired result, choosing the concentration of the solution. The surface stained with potassium permanganate must be protected from fading, for example, with varnish.

Another a simple means stained wood is a strong brew of tea. It will give the wood a rich brown tint. You can also dry the tree with strong brewed coffee. Natural Brown color receives wood treated with a rich decoction of the shell walnut crushed to powder.

A decoction of oak bark will give the surface of the tree a shade of black. golden color obtained by processing wood with a decoction of buckthorn fruits. A red-brown tint can be obtained by treating a wooden surface with a concentrated decoction of onion peel.

How to achieve a special effect when staining a tree

An interesting effect of aged boards can be obtained by using, for example, a white water stain as the main tone. After drying this layer, a layer of gray or black tone of thick wax stain is applied, which will emphasize the texture of the wood. In this way, you can combine stains of different colors.

The appearance of worn worn boards is obtained by applying a water stain to the surface as a background. Without letting it dry, in the right places it is necessary to wipe off part of the stain, simulating abrasion. After complete drying, cover the surface of the product with a second layer.

The stained surface of the wood is lightly fired to reveal the texture. gas burner. You can do the firing only after the stain has dried. Next, the surface is cleaned with a shoe brush.

A beautiful effect with a pronounced wood structure is obtained when applying the first layer with a water-based stain. white color. After drying, an oil stain is applied to the main background with the addition of melted wax.

Not all wood stains have antiseptic properties and can protect wood from influence. external environment Therefore, it is better to varnish the treated wood on top to prolong its service life.

The natural texture of the surface (which often pleases the eye more than the utilitarian forms of the product itself) can be preserved in wood products with a transparent finish. Moreover, the natural structure can be emphasized by changing the color of the surface itself, imitating valuable species by impregnating the top layer of wood with weak dyes. This process is called staining. The stain is very easy to work with. Wood stain is released different shades corresponding natural color wood.

Fidelity preparation for staining wood at home

The surface for staining must be carefully prepared. First of all, it is sanded with 100 grit sandpaper. To remove the pile, the wood is moistened warm water and after about five hours, when the surface is completely dry, it is sanded again, but now with 180 grit paper. The sanding paper must be changed more often so that the pile is completely removed, and not pressed against the surface. For complete removal of fluff from the surface of softwoods, this last operation carried out several times.

How to choose wood stain

The stain is selected exclusively by sampling on a piece of wood from which the entire product is made, since the same composition on different types of wood gives a different color. All prepared blanks are treated with a stain in one step under the same conditions, otherwise the color may turn out to be heterogeneous. First, the stain is applied along the wood fibers. Then the applied composition is rubbed in, moving the brush now across the lines of the texture. Two minutes later, excess stain is removed, for example, with a sponge or ink pad. In order for the stain to penetrate deeper into the wood, it is rubbed with a natural bristle brush. The slower the stain dries, the deeper it penetrates the wood. Under no circumstances should workpieces be dried heating appliances or in the sun. There is no need to rush to get deep uniform staining.

How to treat a dry surface

Processing the dried surface with a brass brush will give wood easy gloss.

To protect against contamination and even more reveal the texture, the stained surface is covered with a transparent varnish. Be careful, some varnishes, in turn, change color, make it darker.

According to the magazine SAM

Wood is often used in country or home work. However, in his in kind it does not always look dignified, to match the surrounding objects and furniture. Under the influence of ultraviolet light, it becomes gray. not being covered by any protective composition wood is very hygroscopic and begins to \\\"play\\\" not only because of the moisture that has fallen on it, but even from the difference in summer and winter humidity. Therefore, wood finishing is practically necessary procedure if you want a wooden thing to keep its consumer qualities as long as possible. In addition, a properly finished thing has much more decorative look than in its natural. This article talks about easy way wood finishes.

You can finish any type of wood, from birch to oak. However, different breeds look different after finishing. For example, birch (not Karelian and not birch burl, but our usual birch or birch plywood) is quite homogeneous. She has no contrast transitions and streaks around the knots. Spruce and pine look quite nice, especially their \\\"near knot\\\" parts. And oak, beech, chestnut look absolutely great.

Before finishing, a dry wooden part is carefully sanded with sandpaper (sandpaper). In this case, all movements of the skin should occur strictly along the fibers and without strong pressure. Any deep transverse risk after staining and nailing will immediately become noticeable.

After sanding, the wood must be thoroughly vacuumed to remove all microscopic dust from its fibers. After that, the part is covered with wood stain. Morilka is water and non-aqueous. Aquatic, of course, on the water. It is used quite rarely and for medium-sized parts. Non-aqueous (on a solvent) - for any. Personally, I prefer non-aqueous. It has more color range and is easier to work with, it absorbs quickly and dries quickly.

So, the prepared wood is abundantly impregnated with stain. Generally, small parts seamed by immersion in the stain. But big board or you can’t immerse the panel, so use a regular brush. Stain is applied to the wood in excess, trying to apply so that the tree absorbs as much stain as possible, and the stain penetrates as deep as possible into the wood. After that, the parts are allowed to dry a little and proceed to the second milestone finishing - washing.

During washing, all excess stain is washed off, which remained on the surface of the tree and was not absorbed. At the same time, the pattern of wood fibers appears sharply and its contrast is significantly enhanced. The tree becomes much more beautiful.

Washing of non-aqueous stain is carried out using a large number acetone. Use a thick large brush. In order to really remove the excess stain, and not transport it to the wood, proceed as follows. The brush is dipped into a bowl with acetone and holding the wooden part slightly at an angle (20-30 degrees) with a slight pressure, the brush is driven from top to bottom, as if driving off excess stain. At the other end, the part rests on the desktop and some very hygroscopic material is placed under it. I use paper napkins. They are not expensive, but they absorb moisture perfectly - that's what they are intended for.

When the brush reaches the end of the part, it slides onto these napkins and the acetone-stain mixture is immediately absorbed by the napkins. Then the brush is again dipped in acetone and the stain is washed off. And so on until the part becomes uniform, it stops washing. After that, the parts are again allowed to dry a little, now from acetone.

Third and The final stage- This is the varnishing of the part. It is carried out in two stages. The first stage - the so-called. raising the pile. As you know, wood is very hygroscopic and readily absorbs any liquid that gets on it. At the same time, it changes its geometric dimensions - i.e. swells. Therefore, after staining and washing, it is no longer as polished as it was before the start of the finishing procedure. And you can feel it by touch by running your palm over its surface. Therefore, they raise the pile in order to further remove it by grinding.

The pile is lifted with a quick-drying furniture varnish of the NTs-222 type. This is a nitrolac, dissolves with acetone or 646th solvent. Spreading a little varnish with a wide soft brush with quick sweeping movements along the fibers cover the entire part and allow it to dry. After the varnish dries, you will feel, taking it in your hands, how rough it has become. This is the pile - small fibers of wood, lagging behind neighboring cells, began to bristle and hardened under the influence of varnish. Therefore, the part is again ground with a fine sandpaper. In this case, do not apply grinding machines, and polished only by hand.

After grinding the part, it is again carefully vacuumed and subjected to final finishing. Its type is already chosen depending on the purpose of the part, the place of operation (house - street), what the owners like (matte or glossy surface) etc. If the part is intended for home use, it is enough to cover it with another 1-2 layers of the same NTs-222 varnish and it will acquire a semi-matt surface.

In general, this method of finishing wood is quite cheap, allows you to get a fairly decorative appearance and has only one drawback. It uses quite strong-smelling materials (lacquer, acetone). Therefore, all work should be carried out either outdoors or in a well-ventilated area equipped with an exhaust hood. In addition, it must be taken into account that these are very flammable materials. Therefore, there should not be any open fire nearby.

Konstantin Timoshenko

Comment.

Sometimes, during the sanding of wood, an unpleasant scuffing occurs, and sometimes the loss of a loose piece occurs. In the vast majority of cases, these exfoliated or completely fallen off acute-angled fragments of the structural pattern are, perhaps, the most beautiful places the whole pattern. (They are clearly visible in the photographs attached to the article) Delamination can also occur at the stage of stain drying. Normal sanding, after varnishing, is indispensable. Chips, as a rule, bend out of the plane by 1.5-2 millimeters, and even higher after piercing. Faced with such a nuisance - you should not be upset much. Just glue the capricious petal before further processing with any means suitable for gluing wood and do not forget to press down, carefully removing the squeezed out excess. By the way, in order not to bother with glue, you can use the varnish prepared for subsequent coating. The gluing procedure is the same. After drying, lightly sand, if e! there is a need, a restored place and you can safely proceed to further processing.

If the workpiece has defects (chips, cracks, traces of vital activity of various insects or the losses described above), and replacement, for various reasons, is impossible or undesirable (a unique pattern, complex shape, for example) then it is necessary to carry out a simple restoration. To do this, it is advisable at the stage of grinding to collect and save the resulting wood dust. She, a little later, will serve as a filler in the preparation of "putty". The wood is beautifully putty. But you will have to prepare the mixture for restoration work yourself. Base - preferably colorless furniture varnish; the filler is already known and if not enough has gathered, take a homogeneous piece of material and grind it with a grinder as much as necessary; color - all the same stain, non-aqueous, of course. Or in most color layouts - ordinary iodine. Alcohol with a solvent, of course, is an unimportant union, but I did not observe rejection reactions. We take a pinch of wood powder, add a drop of varnish, stir with something! Little by little we add color, without stopping the outweighing to the desired shade. You can apply the solution (putty) with any convenient, in your opinion, tool, even for an inappropriate purpose. For example, I have chosen poster feathers, different widths. With a thin pen - it is convenient to apply the putty mass, and with a wider pen - “rub-smooth”. And do not rush to straighten the surface immediately after sanding !! This procedure must be performed only after the product has been tinted with a stain and washed, since the hardened mixture practically does not take on color. And if he does take it (you can force the mountain to move), then the result will be far from the desired one. It is very, you know, difficult to give a leveled tiny area the necessary shade, repeatedly poking it with a brush or swab, without painting the adjacent surface. And she already absorbs color with great pleasure. So you will have: it’s dark there - it’s light here, then vice versa. And wood drawing! your daub will not pull well.

Also, you should not prepare the mixture immediately for the entire scope of work, unless, of course, you have a single defect of a uniform color. Matching shades is not a quick matter, but the mixture dries - and you won’t have time to look back. Therefore, knead the "putty" exactly in the amount that is necessary to straighten one particular color fragment. At the end of the repair and after the mixture has completely hardened, very carefully rub the restored places with a “zero” and, appreciating the result, proceed to varnishing and polishing.

Dmitry Petrov.

It should be added that stains, as a rule, unfortunately, are best impregnated with soft fibers that have more light color, and dark fibers that have a high density are impregnated worse. After staining, we obtain a finitely defined tone, but on professional language this color is called negative.

To prevent this from happening, before staining the surface must be primed with a solution of liquid glass on water. After drying, the surface becomes a little more old view and the pile rises. Now it all needs to be sanded a little literally and can be processed with a stain. Liquid glass has closed a little pore of light fibers and will now stain more beautifully and contrast.

Stains or stains are called tinting compositions that are used to finish wood to give it a more expressive shade. Soaking into the structure of the tree, the liquid stains surface layer while maintaining the natural texture and relief of the surface.

Stain processing allows you to simply and without extra costs give inexpressive wood species a more noble appearance. The ability to experiment with shades reveals wide opportunities when finishing projects.

The composition of stains does not affect the main characteristics of the material. A film does not form on the surface, resistance to decay, hardness and strength of wood remain unchanged (in the absence of special components in the composition). It is not difficult to master the technique of applying stains.

The basis for stains can be water, alcohol, oil and other substances. Each type of finishing composition has its own characteristics, knowing which is easy to choose optimal type finishes for a specific project.

Water stain and its specificity

water stain available as a ready-to-use liquid and as a self-diluting powder to the desired concentration. Water-based stains have good adhesion, naturally emphasize the grain of the wood and come in a wide range of shades from light tones to deep dark reds. The absence of toxic odors makes such compounds indispensable for interior work.

When processing wood of resinous species, water stain can become stained due to uneven absorption into the structure of the material. In this case, the surface of the product is recommended to be subjected to the deresining procedure.

Another disadvantage when working with water stains is the problem of raised pile. To eliminate this defect, the prepared surface is moistened with water and allowed to dry. Then the product is sanded with fine-grained paper and it is opened with a finishing compound.

After processing the wood with a water stain, it takes 12-14 hours for it to dry completely.

In what cases are alcohol stains appropriate?

Alcohol stains are a category of finishing compositions based on aniline dyes diluted in alcohol. Like water stains, this product is offered in powder and liquid form. Distinctive feature finishing is the accelerated penetration of coloring pigments into the wood structure and quick drying.

The best method for applying alcohol stain is the use of an airbrush. The use of a brush, roller and swabs when working with such compositions is ineffective, due to rapid drying. The use of manual methods often results in streaks, uneven tone, spots and other defects.

Such compositions are optimal for finishing surfaces of large areas. Similar in characteristics to them are nitromordants - solvent-based stains.

The alcohol-based stain dries in 20-30 minutes.

Oil stains and their features

The finishing composition is dyes dissolved in oil, usually linseed. The stain is easily and evenly applied to the wood, and, as manual methods, and with a spray gun. It does not form surface films, emphasizes the texture of wood and provides air exchange.

A distinctive feature of the coloring pigments of such compositions is their resistance to UV radiation, due to which the painted surfaces do not fade in the sun, maintaining color saturation for years. For breeding oil formulations use white spirit

How long such a stain dries depends on the degree of its concentration and a number of other factors. On average, it takes from 2 to 4 hours.

Wax and acrylic compounds

According to all the main characteristics, such stains are similar to oil counterparts. A distinctive feature of wax and acrylic stains is their moisture-proof properties. Finishing well protects the surface of the tree from water, but is vulnerable to mechanical damage.

Wax and acrylic compounds easy to apply by hand, keep the same tone, do not leave streaks. They do not raise the pile and well emphasize the natural texture of the wood. This type of finish is actively used in the restoration of furniture. This type of stain is offered in a wide range of colors.

How long such a stain dries also depends on a complex of factors. On average, the process of complete drying of wax and acrylic stains takes 4-5 hours.

What tools are used to apply stain?

Wood staining at home can be done with a brush, foam or fabric swab, paint roller, as well as a spray gun. The choice of technique is determined primarily by the type of finishing composition.

The optimal ratio of materials and tools used:

• alcohol and nitromorilki - airbrush;
• water stains - swabs, roller, brushes with synthetic bristles;
• oil and acrylic stains- wide brushes with natural bristles, lint-free swabs.

How to paint a wood stain: methods for applying a finishing composition

There are two generally accepted methods for treating wood with wood stain:

1. Application of the composition in excess and subsequent removal of excess with a swab.

The technique is relevant primarily for water formulations. It allows you to even out color transitions, eliminate smudges and achieve lighter tones. The stain is applied with circular (tampon) or longitudinal (roller, brush) movements, followed by wiping along the fibers. After the first layer dries, the second one is applied. The procedure is repeated until the desired color saturation is achieved.

1. Application of the composition in excess without subsequent wiping off the excess.

This technique is more appropriate when using wax, oil and acrylic stains when the goal is to achieve deep wood tones. Partial wiping of excess is allowed after the main part of the composition is absorbed into the structure of the tree. This allows you to even out the tone and get rid of minor defects that may occur when applying the composition.

• to enhance adhesion, the stain can be slightly heated, this will improve the speed and depth of penetration of the composition into the wood structure;
• it is not recommended to strongly soak the brush, swab or roller in finishing composition. Controlled stain intake minimizes the risk of smudges and blotches.
• the ends of the board are stained more intensively than the main surface, because. they absorb the composition more actively.

How to prepare the surface for finishing?

Speaking about the merits of wood stain, one should not forget that it emphasizes not only the expressiveness of the wood texture, but also all the defects present on its surface. Therefore, special attention is paid to the proper preparation of the product.

1. The wooden surface is sanded with medium and fine-grained paper. The old coating, if any, is completely removed.
2. The surface cleaned and leveled by grinding is degreased with a sponge dipped in white spirit.
3. Conifers undergo a deresining procedure, for this they are treated with a special compound.
4. When working with water stains on wooden surface preliminarily remove the raised pile (see point 2).
5. A color test is made on the prepared surface. A test coat will give you an idea of ​​how the composition interacts with a particular type of wood and how many layers of it will need to be applied to achieve the desired color.

Compliance with this algorithm will help to achieve professional result when staining wood at home.

How to solve the spotting problem?

The uneven tone of the finish, when the stain appears stronger in some places and weaker in others, is a common problem that is associated with the characteristics of certain types of wood. Spotting can occur when processing resinous wood, as well as species with uneven density or plywood. In the first case, it is recommended to deresin the surface, in the second - to pre-treat the wood with special conditioners that will close the pores and ensure uniform absorption of the stain.

Painting wooden products with stain and varnish

To enhance the wear resistance and attractiveness of the surface of wooden products painted with stain, they are additionally opened with varnish. At this stage, many are faced with the problem when, when varnish is applied, the stain begins to wash away, which ultimately spoils all the work done.

At the stage finishing important to remember:

• water stains should be combined with non-aqueous varnishes;
• alcohol stains - with non-alcohol paints and varnishes.

Wood has been used by mankind in construction and decoration for a very long time. This material has a special variety. it stained wood. Such material lived two lives. At first, the tree grew under the rays of the sun, and then ended up in the bowels of the water. Here it was long time.

As a result, the material acquires a characteristic dark shade. In addition, its building qualities are improving. The wood becomes very durable. After such natural processing, it is not subject to decay, bugs and insects do not start in it.

In addition to its strength characteristics, stained wood is famous for its luxurious appearance. This is an excellent material for interior decoration, furniture facades. The cost of stained wood is quite high.

To give the material a sophisticated look, apply various means. Therefore, it is quite possible to process wood with your own hands.

Stained natural wood

The natural process of wood processing occurs in a natural way. The tree falls under water, where it is for a long time. The longer, the better its quality. To establish how many years the material has been under water, an analysis of stained wood is carried out. In some cases, the duration of this period exceeds 1000 years.

The cost of the presented material reaches 300 thousand rubles. per cube m. This is a very rare oak wood. Other breeds may also be subjected to natural processing of the type shown. Most often on sale you can find birch, larch, pine, aspen or spruce, the staining process of which lasted 30 years. The cost of the material, depending on the variety, can range from 2.5 to 25 thousand rubles. per cube m.

Not everyone has the opportunity to use such material. Therefore, wood is processed artificially.

Buy or make stained wood?

AT modern world more popular than cheap option. This is an artificial stained tree. The material is treated with special compositions, emphasizing the beauty of the texture.

The sale of stained wood, which has been processed artificially, is carried out everywhere. This material is widely used in the furniture industry, when finishing floors, walls or ceilings. Various building construction and the details are made from this tree.

Price artificial material significantly less. But it should be remembered that unscrupulous sellers with the help of wood stain can sell cheap ones under the guise of expensive varieties. It is sometimes quite difficult to determine what type of material is presented to the consumer without examination. Therefore, if you want to use artificially stained wood, it is better to do the processing yourself.

stain properties

Artificial materials allow you to create a product such as stained wood. Almost everyone can do the impregnation with their own hands. Before this, it is necessary to study the properties of tinting and the technology of its application.

Special chemical compositions applied to the prepared surface. They are absorbed by the wood, which makes it possible to preserve its unique structure. First of all, the presented impregnations are designed to ennoble natural wood.

Using one or more shades, you can create beautiful finish interior. This turns parquet, furniture facades into a real work of art. Some types of stains extend the life of the material by protecting it from insects and fungus. Such chemicals prevent the formation of wood decay processes. Therefore, their use is beneficial in all respects.

Water-based stain

Stained wood, which is very expensive to extract and process, is used in luxury construction. Most often, the materials on the market today are treated with water, alcohol, oil, wax or acrylic based formulations.

The first variety is actively used in self-processing wood. Water stain is dry and ready. In the first case, the powder is mixed with water in the required proportion.

The presented stains are somewhat difficult to use. They lift the fibers of the wood. It takes a lot of time to achieve an even shade. First, the starting material is impregnated with water. Next, the surface is sanded. This makes the wood resistant to negative influence moisture. This type of stain allows you to emphasize the texture of wood.

Alcohol stain

Alcohol-based stain differs from the previous variety in the speed of drying. It does not lift the wood fibers, which eliminates the swelling of the base. Alcohol stain is characterized by good antiseptic properties. But due to the high drying speed, a non-uniform shade and even spots may appear on the surface.

Therefore, when creating, for example, stained wood parquet, it is worth giving preference to other varieties. chemical substances. Alcohol stain is used for small wooden parts. In this case, the impregnation lays down evenly, spots will not appear.

The pigments included in the composition on small surfaces look pretty good. Thanks to this treatment, wood will be durable in operation. Apply alcohol stain exclusively with a spray. The brush in this case is unacceptable.

Oil stain

Another popular type of chemical impregnation is oil stain. It has a number of advantages. Dyes are dissolved in drying oil or oil. This type of impregnation has a wide range of shades.

Furniture made of stained wood treated with such means is very beautiful and durable. Fibers are not used during impregnation, and the agent lays down quite evenly even over large areas.

This type of stain is less demanding on the method of application. Even a person with minimal experience in carrying out the work of the type presented will be able to use it. After processing, the products are quite simply repainted and restored. When working as a solvent, widely available white spirit can be used.

Wax, acrylic stains

In the modern world, stained wood processing is carried out according to the highest standards and requirements. The most environmentally friendly and fireproof substances for tinting the material are wax and acrylic stains. They don't highlight bad smell, easy to apply to the base. They are used in a wide variety of industries.

Acrylic impregnations can be mixed to obtain more subtle toning colors. This quality is widely used to create parquet or furniture. Even applying the product in 2 layers, it will be possible to create a monotonous shade without spots or lines.

Wax stains applied to the base with a soft cloth. The agent is rubbed on the surface. When applying this type of tinting, it should be remembered that it is incompatible with acid-curing varnish or polyurethane coatings. Wax stains look very good after polishing. Therefore, they are actively used in the woodworking industry.

Methods for applying stain

Stained wood is obtained by using one of the 4 techniques below. The product can be applied by rubbing, spraying, as well as using a roller or brush.

The first method is suitable for porous wood species. The agent is rubbed on the surface. In this case, a slowly drying stain is used. Spraying is carried out using a spray gun. The tool is evenly distributed over the base.

Applying tinting with a brush is not applicable to all types of wood. This makes the color more saturated. For small parts apply the stain with a roller. This approach allows you to achieve a uniform color. But this method is still better to use for small surfaces. The application method must be chosen in accordance with the type of product.

Stained wood requires adherence to when creating a special technology. This allows even at home to create quality material for further use. Experts recommend applying the stain in 2-3 coats using the most suitable method.

The first layer should be thin. When it dries completely, the base is sanded. The product is applied strictly in the direction of the wood fibers. After all layers have been created and dried, the surface is rubbed with a sponge, polished soft cloth. Movements are made along the fibers or diagonally.

If you need to process large area, it is divided into sections, each of which is processed separately. The layers must dry one by one completely. Depending on the type of product base, this process can take from several hours to several days.

If the product is very thick, it can be diluted. Water-based stains in this case require, respectively, water, and oil-based stains require a solvent.

Elimination of defects

Properly treated stained wood looks exquisite. But novice masters in the process of applying the product may have certain problems. It is quite difficult to eliminate defects after the product has dried. In this case, mechanically removed upper layer material.

If streaks appear during processing, it means that too much substance has been applied. It should be removed. To do this, a second layer of the product is applied, and the excess product is removed with a rag.

To prevent stains from forming on the wood during work, it is necessary to check the application of the product to an unnecessary piece of this material. If the layer lays unevenly, you must choose a different stain. It will be thicker and dries more slowly.

Choosing the right stain for wood, taking into account the advice of experts in the process, you can get high quality material.