How to lay turf on an old lawn

There is a lot of material in the reference literature devoted to the care of grassy spaces. But sometimes it becomes necessary to get rid of the old lawn when reorganizing the site or when the state of the grass is such that it is not possible to put it in order. What options are possible? We will answer this question in the article.

How to remove an old lawn with tools

The surface of the lawn is cut with a shovel into areas close in shape to a square and turned over with grass down. Next, the ground is leveled with a rake, if necessary, a certain amount of soil is added and the desired vegetation is planted (usually vegetable crops), etc. The use of garden equipment - a cultivator - will help to simplify and speed up the work. You should not just leave the soil empty, some will grow up, actively breed and.

Instead of turning pieces of lawn into autumn period the soil can also be dug deep, trying to remove as much as possible root system herbs. To speed up the processing of organic residues, the soil can be shed with biological preparations of the Baikal 1 type. Another option for dismantling the old lawn is to collect the cut turf and take it to a landfill or to a forest zone, compensate for the removed thickness of the earth by backfilling a new layer of soil.

How to get rid of lawn grass with chemicals

Another option for lawn removal is the use of herbicides (Roundup, Cosmic, Hurricane and other products with the active ingredient glyphosate acid). Means are used according to the instructions on the package, it is possible with a slight excess of the dose. Processing should be carried out on green grass and with warm weather. After a couple of months, the lawn will finally die, after which the soil will remain carefully dug up and sown with other crops.

Since these are poisons, even if they are not as dangerous to humans as they are to plants, it is imperative to observe safety precautions and keep children and pets away from contact with drugs.

Removing old lawn

Lawns of this type are the easiest and fastest to remove. The canvas of grass is again cut with a sharp tool into narrow ribbons, hooked from the edge and rolled up. Although the roots of the grass may partially grow into the substrate, they are easy to cut or even simply pull out by hand. If this place is not planned to be arranged in the future, then the film substrate and sand bedding should also be removed.

If you do not know how to quickly and easily clean a regular lawn or rolled lawn, we advise you to contact . They will not only help old lawn quickly and by reasonable price, but they will also tell you what to do if you want to make a lawn again in this place, or how to sow new crops correctly, after what time and in what period.

Lawn is a common element of landscape design, which consists of ornamental grass and gives the site a special attraction. Currently, more and more attention is paid to lawn grass, which forms green cover and favorably affects the mental and physical health of a person. Over time, the lawn fades, thins out, becomes covered with weeds, and therefore loses all its original splendor. There is a need to get rid of it completely or update it. In both cases, the question immediately arises: how to remove the old lawn?

The dismantling of the old lawn is carried out, as a rule, in cases where the grass fades and becomes unpresentable.

How to start the process of removing the old coating

There are several ways to dismantle lawn cover: cleaning with a shovel and other improvised tools or using herbicides.

In any case, for work you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

• herbicides;
• garden tools;
• sealed bags;
• respirator and gloves;
• cultivator.

To make cleaning the old lawn less tedious, it is better to invite a few helpers.

The process of removing an old lawn is low-cost, especially without the use of herbicides, so large financial costs are not required.

To remove the sod with a shovel, you need to take a layer 10-15 cm deep.

Work should be done in old clothes and gloves.

Such a procedure will require a lot of physical effort and is associated with large quantity dirt, debris and dust.

After the turf is cut, it is removed in special sealed bags and taken to a landfill or to a forest located near the site.

This is a prerequisite, especially if it is carried out. This is due to the fact that even dried soil contains a large supply of seeds that can be used to grow new grass.

Treatment of lawn grass with herbicides is a sure way to get rid of old coating

Because herbicides are chemical, which can cause serious harm to human health, then when working with them it is very important to observe existing rules security.

Lawn treatment should be carried out only in a special respiratory mask and rubber gloves. Otherwise, the action of herbicides can lead to poisoning, burns of exposed skin and allergic reactions of the body.

Herbicides are sold in liquid or powder form. They also differ in the type of impact, they can be continuous (destroy all types of plants) or selective action.

"Herbicide" in Latin means "grass" and "kill".

According to the type of impact, herbicides can be:

1. Continuous action (non-selective) - able to destroy any type of plant on the site. That is why they are used on the site before planting or after harvesting. Such herbicides are suitable for use in forest clearings, when it is required to free the area from vegetation.
2. Selective action (selective) - destroy only a certain type of plant. They are ideal for fighting weeds and weeds, so they can be applied even at the time of growth of cultivated plants.

According to the characteristics of the impact on the plant, herbicides are:

1. Contact action - at the time of contact with the plant, the stem and leaves are affected, as a result of which it dies. Such herbicides are used to control annual plants in order to remove them.
2. Continuous and systemic action - in contact with the plant, it penetrates into it, after which it dies. The drug is especially effective for controlling weeds that are perennials or have a fairly powerful root system.

For supporting natural beauty any garden or suburban area it is necessary to timely remove from the soil plants that interfere with the development of other vegetation. If you start this process, it can take a lot of time, effort, and financial costs to care for the area, since you will have to purchase drugs designed to remove weeds.

At proper fit and timely care lawn grass against weeds, it will not only protect the soil, but also embellish landscape design.

What you need to know about weeds

Of course, there is no one hundred percent way to get rid of weeds on the lawn. But if you know the types of weeds and the characteristics of their growth, you can correctly select the means of control. Therefore, we propose to start by looking at some of the features of weeds and understand why the removal of weeds from the soil surface is so necessary.

Firstly, all weeds are divided into young plants and perennials. The second category poses a great danger: if you do not fight weeds on the lawn, on next year this problem will remain, weeds will spread even more over the site, and damage to the planted crops will be more serious. Secondly, weeds differ in the way they reproduce.

Regardless of the distribution pattern, this is a fairly simple and quick process for weeds, so we recommend that you treat the lawn from weeds in a timely manner to prevent a massive problem.

The spread of creeping weeds on the lawn poses a serious threat to soils, as they take nutrients and moisture from the soil. And, as you know, it will be difficult to grow plants on weak soil. That's why it's so important to find effective method how to remove weeds from lawn.

To begin with, it is better to familiarize yourself with the photo of weeds and the names of such plants: there are several ways to deal with different types weeds. We will tell you about one of best practices and explain which lawn grass displaces weeds in the process of its growth.

The role of the lawn on the site

The lawn is a perennial natural cover of grasses. Depending on the properties and features of the application, there are shade-loving lawns, as well as sports and decorative ones. Often they are used to prevent trampling, but you can immediately determine whether the lawn grass will clog weeds - and solve two problems at once.

Attention! Not less than important features lawn plants is air purification and the possibility of muffling the noise on the site.

It is important to understand that no universal way how to remove weeds on the site, as they adapt well to the conditions available. And even if you learn how to get rid of weeds before planting the lawn, use lawn herbicides and other weed control products, this will not give you a guarantee of complete soil protection.

So how do you kill weeds in your lawn? This process will consist of several stages:

• soil preparation, including its marking and cleaning of unnecessary vegetation;
• tillage with protective equipment;
• fertilizing and rolling before planting lawn grass;
• adding seeds and growing a lawn.

First, decide where exactly the borders will be located. lawn area. To permanently clear the lawn of weeds in the desired area, make markings and manually pull out already established weeds from this surface. Repeat this process after a couple of weeks. Now you can level the terrain.

Attention! If it is necessary to divide the site into straight flower beds, use pegs and twine to correctly lay the boundaries.

Now you can start working the soil. Decide on how to treat the lawn from weeds, and study reviews of herbicides from weeds on the lawn to choose the most suitable preparations. Be sure to consider the type of weeds for which such products are intended. It's usually easier to use weed killers on your lawn in the spring because the weeds don't spread seeds all over the lawn (unlike in the fall).

Since the vegetation on the site will turn yellow and die from chemical intervention, remove all excess from the soil. After two weeks, walk over the surface again to remove any residue.

Advice: if you cover the area with a geotextile, weed roots that remain in the soil will be killed and seeds will not germinate.

Now you need to take care of the composition of the soil. If the area has acidic soil, add lime or chalk to it. For heavy clay soil use biohumus or humus. After choosing a particular type of weed-pulling turf grass, read on the package which mineral fertilizers must be applied to the soil. In the spring it is best to use nitrogen fertilizers, and in autumn season- potassium and phosphorus.

After adding fertilizer, loosen the ground, level the soil and moisten. Now level the area with a massive roller, and after a week, remove the weeds that will sprout while the soil is resting.

To prepare for planting lawn grass, visually divide the area into equal sections - and immediately distribute the amount of seeds equally for each. Water the dry soil using a hose with a shower head. When there is no wind, spread the seeds over the area, scattering them crosswise. Next, use a rake to loosen the soil, and use a roller to tamp the seeds in. Again, carefully water the entire area.

It will be better if you scatter compost or straw over the treated area, and then water it about two or three times a day.

Advice: you should not pour a few seeds on each section, because the empty places will be filled with weeds in the future, and you will have to carry out all of the above activities again. But an excessive amount of lawn grass seeds that crowd out weeds can cause some of them to stop developing, freeze and die.

By the way, planting lawn grass that destroys weeds is best done between May and September, since it is at this time that vegetation begins to grow. It is advisable to allocate autumn or spring for these works. But keep in mind that seedlings should appear before the onset of frost. On average, a month and a half passes between sowing and strengthening seedlings.

What kind of lawn to plant so that weeds do not grow? It is necessary to select seeds in such a way that the mixture of herbs copes with the task as efficiently as possible. Of course, only high-quality seeds should be used, and their characteristics are easiest to guess from the cost. The higher the price of lawn grass, which destroys weeds, the better it takes root and germinates faster.

Also be guided by the date of production: choose "new" seeds, since in this case the likelihood of most of them germinating is much higher. The price of grasses that displace weeds for a lawn averages from 3 to 15 thousand.

You should also make sure that you have enough seeds for planting throughout the territory. The package will show the seed rate for one square of terrain. Multiply it by the size of the plot - and you get right amount seeds for growing.

If you follow our recommendations and follow the steps for creating a lawn that clogs weeds, the first blades of grass will appear in a week. After the snow melts in early spring continue to fertilize the soil and, if possible, spread out the remaining seeds to strengthen the system. Then by the summer the lawn will be fully formed, and you can not only enjoy the absence of weeds, but also spend time on fresh air with maximum comfort.

Choosing the right vegetation

Let's talk about how to sow the lawn so that there are no weeds. Such a weed control tool will be most effective if you choose several varieties at once that will favorably tolerate the neighborhood with each other.

It has best reviews lawn grass that destroys weeds of the following varieties:

• microclover relating to unpretentious varieties;
• bent grass, more demanding to care;
• red fescue and bluegrass meadow, favorably enduring frosty periods.

Microclover is an example of a weed control turf that can withstand high temperatures and drought, and can also grow even in direct sunlight. If you constantly water such grass, it will grow rapidly, so you will have to mow the lawn frequently.

In the absence of watering, microclover will behave quite naturally, but in order to maintain a bright green hue, you will have to fertilize the soil several times during the month.

The shoot-bearing bentgrass can grow up to fifteen centimeters in height and gradually takes root in the soil. It has high speed growth and distribution throughout the territory, if such a variety is provided with proper care. The bent grass is adapted to different soils, but the best option for its cultivation there will be drained soil with fertilizers.

As for the red fescue, this grass grows best on fertile soil periodically watered. It does an excellent job of destroying the root system of neighboring vegetation and endures strong temperature drops, so it will last for subsequent seasons.

Meadow bluegrass is suitable for areas with severe frosts. With the onset of spring, the seeds of this lawn grass will sprout out fairly quickly.

If you decide to plant lawn grass instead of weeds, stop at plant varieties that do not require careful care everyday. This will make it easier for you to keep your lawn looking its best for a long time. Learn how to remove weeds from your lawn and consult with seed sellers about which plants the best way suitable for your soils.

Lawn care features

To get the weeds out of the lawn, before planting it, you need to pull some perennials from the ground, as well as weed all the soil. Existing weeds must be uprooted.

Also, a weed-displacing lawn should be cut at the beginning. summer season. The grass from this will become more well-groomed and will grow better, and weeds, on the contrary, will react poorly to such an impact.

One of important points how to deal with weeds on the lawn in summer - regular watering. In other seasons, it is not so necessary due to less dry weather. But it is better to do this often so that the lawn grass is fed with useful microcomponents.

Where the seeds have not taken well, the lawn should be sown. This way you can form an even layer. After finishing summer period the lawn should be provided with additional fertilizing, and with the onset of frost and strong winds, as well as the appearance of snow, it is necessary to remove fallen leaves so that the lawn endures the winter favorably. The lawn is overgrown with weeds, what should I do? Of course, in those places where they appear, pests should be removed manually.

At the stage of formation of the lawn against weeds, be sure to work the soil by special means for the destruction of weeds. Use herbicides for lawn grass against weeds with a continuous effect. Weed preparations on the lawn such as Agrokiller or Tornado are suitable for you. Lontrel is also highly effective against weeds on lawns.

You can use selective agents to remove weeds, for example, Lintur. Before weeding on the lawn, make sure that you have chosen the right preparations.

Of course, it is not always possible to grow a weed-free lawn quickly. For professional control of these pests, you will have to spend a lot of time on proper care behind the plot. But over time, this problem will bother you less and less. And now that you have looked at the photos and names of the types of weeds on the lawn and know how to get rid of them, you can support beautiful view suburban area.

Video

How to deal with weeds on the lawn - watch the video:

The lawn brings satisfaction to the owners of the site only when it is an ideal green lawn. But no matter how hard you try, over time the lawn loses its attractiveness: it turns yellow, bald spots appear, or the grass is affected by various diseases that are not so easy to get rid of. So sooner or later the moment will come when the old lawn will have to be completely replaced. In this article, we will talk about how to get rid of an old lawn, what technologies exist, and also give a couple important tips.

How to clean up an old lawn sown in open ground

There are two options for arranging a green lawn - sowing a grass mixture in open ground and rolled lawns. The sowing lawn is more popular among summer residents and many country residents. It is more durable, requires less attention, as it feeds on moisture from the deep layers of the soil, but it is much more difficult to remove such a lawn than a rolled lawn. After all, the roots of the grass mixture penetrate deep into the soil layers and form a strong strong turf saturated with soil and moisture.

Cleaning up an old lawn takes a lot of work. Below we describe three common ways to remove old lawn from the site.

mechanical way

When asked how to clean a lawn sown in open ground, the first thing that comes to mind is to cut the lawn turf with a sharp garden tools. This can be a bayonet shovel, a shovel with a pointed edge, or a cultivator.

• The first step is to undermine the edge of the lawn closest to the curb or other obstacle.
• Then we drive a sharp shovel to a depth of 10 - 15 cm.
• We translate the shovel into horizontal position making, as it were, cutting movements.

• For convenience, this procedure can be done together: one person pushes the shovel away from himself, the second pulls the handle towards himself, holding on to a thick rope tied near the turn of the shovel.
• Having cut off part of the lawn in this way, the entire turf must be packed in sealed bags and taken out of the site.

Important! If you leave lawn grass sod on the site, there is a chance that old seeds will germinate, which are probably preserved in the sod.

Sod can be taken into the woods, planted and poured out, but it can also be made into wonderful compost. To do this, the cut sod along with the soil must be poured into compost pit or a bunch. To speed up the transformation of plant residues into humus, you can treat a bunch of biological products.

The area that remains after cutting and removing the old turf is 10 - 12 cm lower than the old level. To return to its former height, fresh soil or black soil must be poured on top. From above, you can sow a new lawn or use the site for other purposes.

Treatment of the site with biological products

It is not always possible to completely remove the sod from the site, and it is not always necessary. Therefore, there is another way to remove the old lawn, combining mechanical way and the use of biological products.

First option:

• you can remove the sod in exactly the same way as described above. With the help of a sharp bayonet shovel, a layer of 10 - 15 cm thick is cut off. At the same time, the surface of the soil remains flat. Cut sod can not be removed from the site, but simply turned upside down.
• Then we pour the turf from above with a solution of biological products that accelerate the decomposition of organic residues. For example, "Baikal 1", "Emochki", "EM-1" and other preparations with microorganisms. This procedure can be performed in the warm season, when the air temperature has risen above +16 ° C.
• A solution of biological products can be sprayed on the turf, pouring the solution into garden sprayer. So finely dispersed drops will cover the maximum area of ​​organic matter. Or you can just water the turf with a watering can.
• After processing the turf, it is desirable to cover it with mulch. It may be a black film, it is easier to remove it from the site.

Important! Remember that for better processing of organic matter by microorganisms, the soil must be moist. Also undesirable direct Sun rays That's what mulch is for.

• After just a week, you can already sow a new lawn grass. After removing the mulching material, loose humus remains under it. This means that the microorganisms have successfully processed the organic matter.

Please note that biological products with microorganisms process any damaged organic matter. For example, cut off by glanders, a shovel. No matter how hard you try, small grass roots will remain in the depths of the soil. Biological products successfully process the remains of roots in the ground and cut turf, leaving only nutritious humus. At the same time, mind you, without harming either the soil or environment like herbicides do. The fact is that the composition of biological products includes soil microorganisms, the main task of which in their natural habitat is the processing of organic matter into compounds available to plants. That is why the use of biological products on cut turf is the most organic and environmentally friendly way to remove the old lawn.

Second option:

• It will be much less laborious to plow a lawn area with a cultivator.
• Although the surface of the earth will not be smooth and even, as is the case with cutting the turf, but this method requires less time and effort.

• After the site is treated with a cultivator, it is shed with a solution of biological products in the same way as described in the first method.

It is advisable to cover the site with mulch, and after a week you can sow a new lawn.

Important! Please note that the processing of organic matter into humus takes more than one week. But a week after treatment with biological products, you can safely sow the seeds, since they will no longer decompose.

herbicides

Herbicides cause irreparable harm to soil inhabitants and other micro and macro organisms on your site. Moreover, they accumulate in the ground and then end up on your table with food. You should not think that I have a lawn there, and there is a vegetable garden and there are as many as 15 m between them, herbicides will not harm the crop. You are mistaken, herbicide residues and their decomposition products can travel around your site along with rain and groundwater.

However, many are not afraid of any persuasion, and they continue to use herbicides to destroy green spaces. Well, we will tell them the technology of using these substances on the site.

Firstly, herbicide treatment must be carried out in protective equipment: in a respirator and gloves. In the process of processing the site, it is necessary to ensure that the drug does not get on open areas skin. After treatment, you must take a shower.

Contact with herbicides on the skin can cause burns, poisoning and allergic reactions.

Herbicides are sold in liquid and dry powder form. They also differ in the type of impact:

• Non-selective (solid action). These herbicides are unable to distinguish different kinds plants and destroy absolutely everything in a row. They can only be used after harvest. Because no matter how hard you try, drops of the drug during processing will scatter throughout the area.
• Selective (selective action). Herbicides of this type are capable of destroying only certain types of plants. Such preparations can be used throughout the season to kill weeds.

Also, herbicides differ in the way they act:

• contact action. Drops of the drug fall on the leaves and stem of the plant, it dries up and dies. In this way, you can remove annual plants.
• Continuous action or systemic herbicides. After the drug enters the plants, it is absorbed into the structure, not only the aerial part (leaves and stem), but also the roots die. Such preparations can be used to eliminate perennial plants.

So, to remove the old lawn, it is necessary to treat the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe lawn with a universal systemic herbicide. If it is a powder, then it must be scattered evenly over the entire area, according to the instructions.

After herbicide treatment, the area must be covered plastic wrap to improve the drug-herb interaction response. Cleaning an old lawn with herbicides is best on hot summer days, when direct sunlight can burn the grass through the film.

It is possible to sow a new lawn not earlier than in a month, but better for the next season.

How to remove an old rolled lawn

A completely separate category of lawns - rolled lawns. They are a sheet of green grass, the basis for which is a dense turf - the interweaving of grass roots. It spreads out on a flat prepared area. Sometimes crushed stone and sand are added under the rolled lawn, and a film or agrofiber is spread on top so that other plants cannot sprout from the soil. This is the main difference between rolled lawns - their base is separated from the general ground, so it is easy to remove it.

Lawn removal can be done at any time of the year. For several years that the rolled lawn lay on the site, its roots intertwined, forming a continuous canvas. There are no more clearly lined rolls, there is a solid carpet of grass.

That is why before removing the lawn, it is necessary to cut it again into even rolls. This will greatly simplify the task of dismantling.

• First, we mark the area.

• Via sharp knife we cut the old rolled lawn again into rolls.
• We hook the canvas on one side, adjacent to the curb or other obstacle.
• Then carefully pry or cut the turf from below.
• Even taking into account the fact that under the rolled lawn there is a substrate that does not allow the roots to cling to the main soil, all the same, over the years of using the lawn, the turf seems to have stuck to the base.
• To pry the turf, you will need a sharp tool.
• Then we roll the lawn into rolls and remove it from the site.

It is only necessary to remove the old lawn from the site when you are going to lay a new rolled lawn. If you no longer intend to use rolled lawns, then after dismantling the old lawn, it is necessary to remove the backing film and completely remove the bedding. The site is covered with fertile soil, after which it is possible to sow a sowing lawn or use the site for other purposes - to plant a garden or vegetable garden.

If you are going to start a construction site on the site of an old lawn, then you do not need to fill in the fertile soil, it is enough to remove all the bedding.

Dismantling an old lawn is always troublesome, as you have to carefully remove large area green spaces. To make things go faster, it is better to invite a couple of friends or relatives to help.

Good day dear friends!

I was approached by my reader Olga from Brovarsky district, Kyiv region, with a simple, at first glance, question, “What to do with an old neglected lawn: restore, or is it easier to sow a new one?”

As our correspondence showed, there were a lot more questions, but we still decided to restore it. Indeed, judging by the photographs that Olga sent me, the lawn even looks very good. And I decided that it would be better to restore it than to dig up and sow a new one.

What we decided and how his “revival” took place, I described in detail in my article.

So let's get started.

Olga writes:

Hello Andrey!

Need help in making a decision - what to do with the "killed" lawn, which is about 9-10 years old. Until this year, it was possible to keep the lawn "within" a decent look - i.e. more or less green and with a minimum number of weeds (the area is only about 8o squares, inherited from the previous owners at the age of 7-8).

Despite all the spring activities (combing, scarifying, fertilizing, Lintur, and watering in the summer, of course), the lawn is a pitiful sight - the bald spots are overgrown with weed grass (presumably pigs), in some places they are not overgrown with anything. The reason for baldness is either a fertilizer burn (which is strange, because I fertilized as usual), either Fusarium - but there was no mold!, Or drought .... I could not make a diagnosis.

Weeding and sowing on your own piece by piece has neither the strength nor the time - we visit the country house mainly on weekends. there are also flower beds, etc.

Will mulching with overseeding of grasses save the lawn or does such a lawn need to be redone?

Is it possible to simply cover the lawn with a layer of earth (up to 10 cm is possible) and sow without removing the old sod and weeds?

Is it possible, in principle, to get rid of pigs now?

I can send a photo in a couple of days to understand the situation. I would be grateful for an answer - I would like to put our "lawn" in order in the fall (Brovary district).

Best regards, Olga

My answer:

Good afternoon, Olga!

Everything can be fixed in a year 🙂

The fact that the soil is depleted is unequivocal. 8-10 years for a lawn is already a term.

I was in the country similar situation. Try to sprinkle the lawn with a fertile layer of earth for the winter, on top of the existing one. But not peat or mulch.

In the spring, at the end of April - beginning of May, when the soil dries up, carefully selecting the weeds, sow the lawn.

I just planted a new one on my existing lawn. I evenly distributed seeds of 2-3 mm on the lawn, then sprinkled 1-2 cm of black earth on top. I trampled down and watered from the sprinkler. Grass sprouted 90%.

I will say from my own experience, do not bother with expensive seeds, they germinate just as well as medium-priced and even cheap ones. We have not yet learned to grow good crops, but they are imported from abroad, and our climates and soils are different.

Pigworm is a common weed that grows where lawn grass does not grow. Try to constantly pull out weeds, preferably by the roots.

Good luck to you!

Olga writes:

Hello Andrey,

Thank you for your prompt response.

I'm thinking of sowing the lawn on top, as you advise, just now, in the fall. I think it will get stronger before winter. Because spring is now very dry just in time. when you need to sow, and I do not have the opportunity to travel and water every day. Therefore, I want to use autumn rains and coolness. This spring, for example, I sowed bald spots several times - to no avail due to lack of precipitation.

Process questions. You write - not mulch and not peat. For some reason, everywhere it is recommended to fill it with earth and sand.

Probably, you need to cut the grass first, do the scarification, collect the garbage, which will come out? Then pour seeds, earth. The question is - is it necessary to tamp, because there is grass under the layer of earth? And is it enough to add 1-2 cm? With us, you can pour all 5 cm, then seeds, and sprinkle lightly from the birds. The question is what will happen to the old grass under such a layer ...

The swine is full - it is no longer realistic to remove it all. And the seeds will sprout sooner or later, I guess. No matter how you mow it, he manages to give an ear - very flat rosettes. Maybe the new grass will "strangle" him a little? 🙂

As for the seeds, I don’t really bother) I took different grass from “Vassma” for overseeding, they seem to be carrying Dutch ones. I would like to take the composition for a solar lawn. because We have it just baked in the sun almost all the time. There are many bald patches under the bushes of conifers, which are junipers on the sides of the lawn. There, in sight, the shadow hinders to grow. and the earth is acidified with litter ...

I would be grateful if you tell me which seeds to take, and who carries normal earth for bedding. What to give preference - "field" or still peaty? So as not to shovel it later with sand or something else. I understand that the earth needs a couple of cubes approximately. (Brovarskaya district, Rozhny village, nearby - Letki, powder puff, Zazimye).

Thanks again. I work as a patent attorney (registration of trademarks, patenting of inventions, industrial designs, etc., copyright). I am fond of floriculture, I completed courses on landscape design, dendrology. If I can help you in these areas, please contact me!

My answer:

Olga, I will answer in order.

You can take a chance, there is still time before winter. Young grass tolerates cold well. The main thing is that it should not be high, i.e. it is necessary to carry out a "light" haircut before in the first half of October.

In the Kyiv region, as a rule, peat is sold, and there is nothing left but to mix it with sand. Sand will slightly reduce the acidity of the soil.

Everything is correct: haircut, scarification, garbage collection. After sprinkling the grass with soil, nothing will happen, personally verified. The layer is small.

Immediately a layer of 5 cm is a bit risky. Up to 3 cm just right.

Young grass from the month of May will gradually displace both pig and other weeds from the lawn.

I buy weed at the Epicenter, and almost every time a new brand. The last time I took GREENFIELD, and the penultimate time, I don’t remember the brand, but I know that the manufacturer is Poland, in green bags. But I took it for repair. It is difficult to advise something specific, because, as never before, grass has never come across that I would be 100% satisfied with.

I take the soil for adding the lawn own production, from compost. I keep it in special metal boxes. And as you correctly noted, I interfere with it with sand.

Please write about the result of the work done.

Olga writes:

Hello Andrey,

Thanks for your reply.

I also consulted with familiar landscapers - they advise to clean up the old lawn (remove the sod or roundup) and then add some earth and re-sow in the spring, or lay a rolled lawn.

It seems like we won’t have time to sow in the fall - the herbicide needs 2-3 weeks so as not to interfere with the growth of a new lawn. Because they believe that our lawn is badly killed, there are a lot of weeds, and they will grow together with the old grass into the "new". And there will be heterogeneous greenery - a "map of the world") and weeds will sprout with renewed vigor from the new land.

Now here I am at a crossroads.) To suffer with weeding a new lawn is completely reluctant. I know what a new lawn is - it's a year and a half of dancing with a tambourine around it. And the rolls "bite".

Please take a look at the photo - I took it last weekend. There is general plans and fragments that are overgrown with pigs, bald under junipers, before and after mowing. What do you say now? I'm completely confused...
Thank you!

Sincerely,
Olga

My answer:

Good afternoon, Olga!

If I were you, I wouldn't touch the old lawn. You correctly said that 1.5 years of dancing: do not walk, constantly water and, again, remove weeds.

Then why destroy everything? Weeds will also be on the new lawn, only on the new lawn they will do more harm - they will suppress young shoots.

What I would do based on your photos:

1. Removed weeds by hand or herbicides.

2. Places where the grass does not grow at all, dug up and sowed the lawn again. but did not touch the normal lawn.

3. On an already existing, normal lawn, once a month, sow seeds after a short haircut and immediately water abundantly.

Landscapers are used to creating, i.e. create, and in your case it is better to make a major . I have this problem often, especially in the spring. And I rolled up my sleeves, take on the partial. Pros: you can always walk on it, and not bypass it, and I don’t worry that the young grass will not have enough moisture. This is my opinion, you decide.
Olga writes:

Thank you Andrey.

We will make a decision.

When there is a result, I will write. Experience is great :-)

Have a nice day and inspiration to you!

Olga writes:

Hello Andrey,

We will fix it as you suggested.

They offer me such a grass mixture (a friend works in a company that sells this good, they take a large wholesale in Holland, Germany :) -

series "Repair" repair grass mixture
35% cane fescue
30% red fescue
25% perennial perennial perennial ryegrass
10% bluegrass Germany

or - alternatively:
series "Greenline" universal
35% cane fescue
35% cane fescue (other variety)
10% perennial perennial perennial ryegrass
20% Red Fescue Germany

Thanks!!
Sincerely,
Olga.

That's all! See you soon!