How to pull a pipe out of a cast-iron socket. Do-it-yourself chasing a cast-iron sewer pipe. Dismantling of cast iron pipes

July 15, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and outdoor decoration(plaster, putty, tile, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works.

Currently, do-it-yourself replacement of sewer pipes in an apartment is not done with cast iron, which stood before, it is being replaced with polyvinyl chloride (PVC). This not only saves money, but also makes it much easier labor process, since PVC products are very light and easy to install, and the service life is at least 50 years (the same as that of cast iron).

But I will talk about the merits of such a solution below, and the main topic will be the installation itself, besides, I suggest you watch the video in this article.

Installation of sewerage in the apartment

Since in most cases you need to change the sewer pipes in the apartment according to the same project as before, it is quite simple to calculate the amount of material.
But, in cases where new bathrooms are added, you will need to add the amount of material as well.

Most Common Mistakes

On the riser there is a separate fan tee for connecting a toilet and a thinner sewer pipe or a direct outlet, only for connecting a toilet. This fitting is much longer than PVC and, of course, takes up more scarce space, moreover, such adapters are not always in good condition. Removing them in most cases is difficult, but it must be done. So you free up the area and get the opportunity to open the doors of the toilet (bath) inward so that they do not scratch on the toilet;
Some believe that if the riser does not flow, then it can not be touched, even despite the fact that it appearance leaves much to be desired, but serious mistake. As I noticed, the main motivation for such passivity is high price for replacement work. But in the event of a breakthrough, the cost will already increase, since moral problems will also be added here in the form of feces on the floor and not quite pleasant aroma in the apartment. Remember that this pipe can be replaced with a plastic one even if the neighbors from above and below do not want such a repair!
Another serious mistake that I often see with customers is the fear of hiding the wiring of water and sewer pipes under ceramic tiles- and suddenly break through. Reasonable arguments in such cases usually work in a 50/50 ratio! But there are very serious arguments in favor of sealing such communications - this is the absolute anti-corrosion structure of PVC and great quality rubber two-petal seals at the joints (about decorative effect I'm already silent).
Another extreme is when the sewer pipes in the apartment are replaced by the owners themselves, they sometimes do not consider it necessary to fix the pipeline on open area brackets . Of course, if this is a solid and short section of no more than a meter, then you can do without a console, but in other cases, fasteners are required! Whatever it was, but the pipes will become dirty and someday they will have to be cleaned and loose joints will simply disperse.

The nuances of dismantling

Of course, “breaking is not building”, but here such “wisdom” is not entirely appropriate, since we need to leave certain sections of the pipeline intact, and cast iron is a rather fragile metal. So, if the riser does not need to be replaced, then we will need to remove the fan tee or branch (the tee is somewhat easier to remove due to its configuration).

First, free it from the 75th pipes that go under the bathtub, sink and sink - just pull them out or cut them off at the fan fitting with a grinder.

After that, you need to loosen the fan fitting and if it is a tee, then leave a piece of the 75th pipe in it, as shown in the photo above, for easy pulling. Very rarely, this can be done by hand without the use of any tools.

In 95% of cases, you will first have to remove the entire seal from the socket, which includes this fitting - it can be resin, cement, mortar, lead and even rags. Some people use a cutter or blowtorch for this, but I usually get by with a chisel and dismantle it in 20-40 minutes.

I don't use heat because:

firstly, the fitting will not come out “hot” (the metal expands);
and, secondly, this is a whole cascade of "aromas" that you will receive from the pipeline.

So, after the bell, try to loosen the outlet with your hands or a hammer, but you need to constantly clean up the junction - this way the insert will gradually come out. If the fitting breaks off and its neck remains in the socket, then it is carefully broken with a chisel so as not to damage the walls of the socket.

Dismantling the riser (1-fan fitting; 2 - revision)

And now let's figure out how to dismantle the riser if the neighbors below and above do not support you (the instruction on this matter is not provided by any GOST or SNiP). You just need to first cut a piece of vertical pipe in the places shown in the diagram above.

To do this, you need a 230 mm disk, but you can get by with a diameter of 180 mm, you just have to finish off the pipe with a hammer. When you cut this piece, you have an excellent loosening lever, but it must be used very carefully so as not to damage the socket of the downstream pipe fragment (if this happens, then replacing the riser at the neighbor below will be at your expense).

Most likely, you will have to break the floor along the perimeter of the riser to free the transition fitting - this way you remove not only the bend, but also the straight adapter. I can't point you to the exact steps here, as the seams can behave differently.

I will only say that if you do not rush, then the dismantling will take place neatly. By the way, it is precisely such moments that sometimes basically determine how much it costs to change the sewerage in an apartment, since the replacement in the usual mode is simply signed by the number of points (the cost of one point differs by region).

If you do not live on the top floor, then there is a chance that one of the upstairs neighbors will use the sewer, even if you warn them (tested from personal experience!).
Therefore, immediately stock up on a basin - when a cut pipe sticks out from above, and you hear a characteristic drain noise - immediately substitute the prepared container.
It is better to catch them in a bowl than to remove them from the floor later.

Installation work

We continue to consider how to replace the sewer pipes in the apartment and start with the riser that you cut out (if you change it entirely, then there’s nothing to even talk about here - just insert the fan tees and reductions on the floors). For the transition, you will need a reducing fitting with a cast iron flare and a coupling, but the 110th pipe - both of these fittings are clearly visible in the photo above.

There are o-rings in there, but you can lubricate them for reinsurance silicone sealant, and if you are doing this for the first time, then be sure to lubricate.

From below, to go to the socket cast iron pipe, you will also need a reduction, only already rubber - such as in the top photo. And then everything is simple - at the top you put on an adapter with a clutch pulled over it to failure.

From below, insert a fan fitting (it will be either a tee or a cross with a 50 mm outlet), and insert a pipe fragment into it to make it shorter by the length of the socket (it is more convenient to insert it this way). Then lower the coupling down so that it captures two edges at once (if necessary, smear the seals with silicone) - the riser is ready.

After installing the riser, replacing the sewer in the apartment is very simple - you will need to assemble a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm from fragments of the desired length, connecting them with tees to drain to one or another bathroom. If there is no fragment of the desired length, then take a longer piece and cut it with a hacksaw, and make a chamfer at the end with a knife for ease of assembly.

Do not forget that for each connection you need a sealing two-lobed rubber ring - they are given complete with pipes.

To connect the drain from the washing or dishwasher you can use a siphon with a special outlet, as in the photo above, but this is only suitable if the unit to be connected is in close proximity to a bathtub, sink or sink. But if such a device is installed on the other side of the room, then pvc pipe with a diameter of 32 mm, and the entrance to the socket of the 50th pipe is made through a rubber reduction.

If the slope of the 50th pipe in optimal mode should be 35 mm / m linear, and at the minimum - 25 mm / m linear, then for the 32nd pipe the slope is not needed at all, and in the case technical necessity you can even allow a counter-tilt. The thing is that it provides for forced, and not arbitrary, descent of water from the unit.

Sometimes the assembly of pipe fragments and fittings is difficult due to poor sliding on the sealing ring, especially if you buy pipes from different manufacturers.
But there is a good way out of this situation - lubricate the seals with liquid detergent, and assembly proceeds without problems.

Conclusion

July 15, 2016

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Attention! The dismantling of a cast-iron sewer riser is a plumbing work of increased complexity. Sufficient experience with power tools and strict adherence to safety measures are required. Soberly assess your capabilities. In case of failure, you will flood the neighbors and, possibly, not at all with water, injure your hands, ruin your eyes, or start a fire.

It makes sense to change the riser only when the new plastic pipes go beyond your bathroom. But usually neighbors do not give permission to carry out such work. Nevertheless, consider the option of replacing a standard sewer riser with a diameter of 100 mm with the replacement of a tee or cross located near the base of the floor, they look something like this:

1. Tee 2. Left cross 3. Right cross.

Necessary tools and materials:

Perforator;
Chisel, hammer;
Strong knife;
A small "Bulgarian";
3-4 cutting discs with a diameter of 125 mm and 1 grinding;
Old chisel, Several screwdrivers of different widths, lengths and sharpness;
Goggles, respirator, headgear;
Steel wedge for breaking parts of a pipe made of cast iron;
two wrenches;
a large nail puller or small crowbar to use as leverage.
Pipe cutter for cast iron pipes. The use of such a pipe cutter will significantly speed up and simplify the process of dismantling the sewer, but such a pipe cutter is expensive, and is rarely used on the farm.
Old iron bucket half full cold water;

First, it is necessary to determine how the cast-iron parts were connected, first of all, a tee (1) or a cross (2,3) with a socket (fitting) of a pipe located in the lower ceiling. To do this, carefully clean the junction, usually it is above the floor level. But if you've ever made an additional screed or laid tiles on the floor, the connection may be below the level of the existing floor, in which case a hammer drill or chisel may be needed. Work with both a puncher and a chisel should be very careful not to damage the socket of the pipe remaining in the ceiling.

Docking could be done with caulking the seams with the usual cement-sand mortar, cement mortar, polymer cement mortar and - the worst option - filling the joint with sulfur. Open with an old chisel or sharp screwdriver upper layer the seam between the tee (cross) and the shaped part of the pipe located in the lower ceiling in order to get to the sealant. If it is something hard to the touch and the chisel slides over the surface with an unpleasant squeak, reminiscent of the sound when you run a knife on glass, then you may very well have come across sulfur. To be sure, try to pick out a sample and try to set it on fire. If the scooped out sample ignites, burns with a blue flame and at the same time caustic gas is released, then you are out of luck - it is sulfur. Then you will need

Additional tools and materials:

Metal, but better asbestos shields for protection against open fire of flammable objects;
Gas burner or blowtorch:
Several gas masks, it is better not to undertake such work alone.

Before starting work, it is necessary, if possible, to remove all flammable and breakable objects from the bathroom, dismantle the toilet bowl, dismantle the pipes of the internal sewage system (if you have not already done so). If plastic water pipes(and it usually doesn’t happen otherwise) pass next to the sewer riser, then they should be securely covered with sheets of non-combustible material. If for some reason this cannot be done, then the pipes should be cut off and restored at the end of the work.
If there are others above your apartment, then it is necessary to warn the neighbors so that they do not use the sewer during the work. How more apartments above you and the more pensioners and children live in them, the more difficult it is to do.
Before starting work, empty your pockets of unnecessary things that interfere with normal work. keys to the apartment, mobile phone, a lighter, cigarettes can accidentally fall out of your pocket during work and, most unpleasantly, fall into the riser.

Work should be carried out in a respirator, headgear and goggles.

Work performance technology:

1. Cutting the riser.

Cut the pipe with a pipe cutter. If there is no pipe cutter, make two almost horizontal cuts along the perimeter of the pipe with a "grinder" at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from one another approximately in the middle of the riser. In this case, the conditional planes of the cuts should not be parallel, but converge on the edge of the pipe near the wall where you did not cut the pipe. It is not recommended to cut the pipe to the end, since the upper part of the pipe can sag and pinch the disk, while the disk, grinder, water risers, tile on the walls or your hands.

By driving a special wedge into the cuts on the right and left, you can separate and remove the cut ring. If you do not have a special wedge, then you can additionally make two vertical cuts on the ring that appears after making horizontal cuts. Again, it is advisable not to cut the cuts to the end, so that the cut piece of pipe does not fall into the sewer. Then, using a screwdriver or chisel, carefully break out the cut piece so that it does not fall into the sewer, and knock out the remaining pieces of the ring with a hammer.

Close the hole in the pipe with a wedge of rags.

2. Trimming the top of the pipe.

Cut the top piece of pipe to the estimated height. For the subsequent installation of a plastic sewer, you need to leave a piece of pipe coming out of top floor with a height equal to the height of the fitting to be pressed during installation. Determine the required height, make a cut with a "grinder" (if there is no pipe cutter) around the pipe. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the notch plane is as perpendicular as possible to the pipe itself. If you stick near the notch line masking tape so that the end of the adhesive tape exactly overlaps the beginning, then you will thus get a line perpendicular to the axis of the pipe and greatly simplify the task.

Sharply, with a blow, press the bottom of the pipe towards the wall. Cast iron is a brittle material and should crack at the narrowest point, where you did not cut the pipe with a grinder. Here, in addition to skill, strength is also required - a one and a half meter piece of thick-walled cast iron is quite heavy. The success of this operation depends on the depth of the cut and on the distance of the pipe from the wall, the farther the pipe is from the wall, the easier it is to do. If the pipe is cut at least three-quarters of the perimeter, and the cut bottom of the pipe is at least 3 cm from the wall, then everything should end successfully. In rare cases, when the pipe is located closer to the wall, an incision should be made 10 - 15 cm below the established mark. Then dismantle the lower piece of the sewer pipe using a special wedge, and only then make an incision in the marked place. From the bottom cut, the pipe is carefully cut upwards, then the resulting piece is cut horizontally along the mark, each cut sector is removed. The last piece of the pipe, located near the wall, is cut "from the inside" of the pipe by a "grinder" without a protective casing.

Preparation for installation of the upper part of the pipe. "Bulgarian" with grinding disc the cut of the pipe is trimmed and a conical chamfer is removed around the entire perimeter.

3. Removal of the lower piece of cast-iron pipe from the socket, which is concreted into the floor, if the joint is not filled with sulfur.

The lower section of the sewer riser usually consists of several parts or fittings. The design may include a cast-iron revision, a coupling, an expansion pipe, etc. First, check the strength of the connection. To do this, try to download upper part pipes. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the lower socket. If the pipe wobbles even a little, you are in luck - carefully pull out all the dangling parts. If the tee (cross) "moves" at least a little at the joint, then you can gently loosen it (it) and remove it with the help of a crowbar or a nail puller. If the tee or cross is fixed very rigidly, you need to clear the joint to the maximum depth, periodically checking the possibility of rocking. If the width of the joint allows, then you can use a puncher with a thin drill, preferably without a victorious tip. The solution at the joint is carefully hollowed out along the perimeter, the remains of the solution are removed with a screwdriver or chisel. The worst option is if there is almost no seam and the tee (cross) is held very firmly. In this case, you can try to clear the seam with a piece of old canvas for metal. But if you feel that this does not give a result, and are determined to change the tee (cross), then there is only one thing left - cut the tee (cross) 2-3 cm above the socket. Close the hole in the riser with a wedge of rags; for insurance, tie the rags with a rope so that the pipe cuts do not fall into sewer riser. Then, carefully working with a "grinder" with removed protection, as much as possible cut through the pipe cut remaining in the socket under different angles inclination of the disk without damaging the socket of the pipe remaining in the ceiling. Remove the remains of the pipe inside the socket using a special wedge.

4. Removal of a tee or cross, if the joint is filled with sulfur.

The tee or cross itself is not cut off, but you need to completely cut off the large socket of the cross or tee with a diameter of 100 mm, this will allow you to put the working part of the blowtorch into the pipe, and thereby ensure the necessary heating of the pipe. A shield made of asbestos or metal is laid on top of the pipe. This will allow you to adjust the draft in the riser. If there are through holes in the lower ceiling near the socket, for example, left after the installation of a water pipe, then through these holes the molten sulfur can enter the bathroom of the lower apartment, and in the worst case, on the neighbor's head. To avoid conflict situations such holes must be sealed with a gypsum or cement-sand mortar before starting work; in extreme cases, for very small gaps, you can use mineral wool. It is advisable to plug the riser with a wedge of non-combustible material so that as much as possible less sulfur got into the stand. Warming up is desirable to perform evenly, and as often as possible to change the direction and angle of the torch. With a sharp heating, even a whole bell can burst, if you hear a loud bang, you know you succeeded, although there is nothing to congratulate here. This does not happen often, only if the pipe was cast from low quality cast iron. However, if the width of the groove allows, then before starting work it is recommended to drill the sulfur fill as much as possible with a drill without a winning tip, you can also use a drill with long drill to relieve potential stress. When heated, molten sulfur will flow into the riser or pour out. When cooled, sulfur quickly hardens. Hardened pieces should preferably be removed to the side, away from open flames. It is not necessary to use a gas mask before the sulfur ignites. But remember that with strong heating, the sulfur melt can boil in a closed volume and splash out, so goggles when working with gas burner or blowtorch necessary. From time to time, check the mobility of the tee (cross) by swinging or hitting a hammer with different parties. As soon as the backlash appears, stop heating and pull out the tee either by swinging it, lift it up with your hands, or grab it with two adjustable wrenches. The edges of the tee (cross) at the point of capture can break, so you need to be careful.

If burning sulfur remains on the tee (cross), then lower the tee into an iron bucket of cold water. Clean the inside of the pipe socket in the lower ceiling from the remnants of sulfur, cable, soot with an old chisel or a sharp, strong knife.

When replacing a worn-out pipeline, the most difficult task is to dismantle the cast-iron pipe. The material with which the pipes were connected adds to the complexity of the work. Previously, cement mortar, sulfur or aluminum were taken for reliable pipe joining (see. Thus, the whole structure became almost monolithic. cement composition it’s quite easy to remove, but sulfur and aluminum make you make every effort (see).

Sequence of work

Some may think that dismantling old communications can be done quickly and without problems. However, it must be borne in mind that the riser passes through several apartments, which means that in the event of a breakdown, many people will suffer. Dismantling is a plumbing work of increased complexity. Some experience in working with tools and equipment is required, as well as compliance with safety measures. Therefore, such a responsible work should be entrusted to qualified specialists.

To completely exclude possible emergencies, you need to perform the following manipulations:

shutdown of water flowing through the riser;
disconnecting a hose that goes directly to the toilet;
dismantling the toilet bowl, for which the fixing bolts are unscrewed;
all unnecessary materials, equipment, household appliances and the plumbing is taken out of the room so that there are no unnecessary barriers for dismantling;
pipes located a little further from the riser are dismantled with a hammer;
get rid of the structures leading to the riser;
a special cuff is installed on the socket of the tee, for which old lubricants are removed in advance. If this is not done, then it is impossible to talk about quality installation new system.

Important! Inaccurate installation of the collar can damage the tee. In such a situation, it will be necessary to replace a certain section of the riser, which will entail additional costs.

Dismantling guide

Due to the fact that the sulfur that connects the communication sections tends to harden, demolition will be difficult. So how can you understand what composition was used for fastening? To find out, you need to bring a blowtorch to the connection. Bad smell and melting indicate the presence of sulfur.

Dismantling joints with a burner or blowtorch

To destroy the pipeline, where there is a connection using sulfur, you will need a hammer, chisel, blowtorch or burner. Sulfur is chemical element, therefore, when heated, it will begin to release into the air harmful substances. They are poisonous to humans and harm the environment. Moreover, the heating process can last several hours. Therefore, a gas mask and other protective equipment, preventing ignition of nearby equipment or furniture. You can use a protective screen made of metal base or asbestos.

Detailed instructions for dismantling communications

The dismantling of the system begins with the elimination of pipes located at a distance from the riser. For operational work, a hammer and a chisel are used. After all, cast iron itself is a rather fragile material, respectively, it is easily amenable to mechanical destruction.

Important! To disassemble pipes, it is not recommended to use a hammer with a metal nozzle. If you do not calculate the force of impact, the hammer will fall into the pipe, which may cause a large-scale blockage of the sewer system or close the gap of the pipeline. For work, a hammer with a polymer nozzle is suitable.

The process of removing the pipe includes several stages:

1. Work with a hammer is carried out until the cross in the riser becomes visible.

2. It is necessary to loosen the cross. This procedure is easier to do when it remains small plot pipes. However, some masters do not leave too much to fully open the connection.

3. Put on all protective equipment, take precautions through protective screens. If two professionals are involved in the dismantling, the work will take less effort and time. One specialist heats the sulfur, the second one, at the same time, loosens the pipe, cleaves and removes the viscous sulfur.

4. The cross is easily removed from the riser when most of the sulfur has been removed.

Important! Care must be taken when removing a pipe bonded to a tee. Part of the pipe is cut off with a grinder. In this case, a fragment with a length of no more than 10 cm should remain. Then this segment must be loosened and removed.

Possible problems

For quality demolition cast iron pipeline, it is necessary to cut the pipe to the maximum to the section where the transition to the socket begins. This will make it easier to dock new equipment. Be sure to need a grinder. If it is not there, then use a regular hacksaw, however, the dismantling process will take a lot of time.

In some cases, during the demolition of the sewer system, a lot of problems and failures arise. However, there is no need to despair. You can buy in specialized stores that will help connect cast-iron structures and PVC pipes.

Often there are various difficulties in working with plastic pipes. To easily cut off a piece of pipe, it is sawn along the perimeter to half. Further, it is necessary to act simply by pressing and a small rotational movement, after which the pipe will burst.

Important! Cast iron construction can be quite strong, making it difficult to remove from the riser socket. To correct this situation, several cuts are made around the pipe, every 2 cm. This helps to get the pipe out of the riser.

When the turn comes to connect plastic and cast iron pipes, heating will be required. Pre cast iron connections sulfur is removed, then the system is allowed to cool slightly. The final stage can be considered the installation of a new pipeline. So that in the further operation of the sewer system there will be no different kind problems, you should purchase pipes made from modern materials. These include metal-plastic and plastic.

If the sewer system does not suit you and is completely replaced, everything is simple - the plastic is corny cut into pieces, the cast iron is smashed with a hammer, the pieces are thrown away. If it is necessary to eliminate the detected malfunction, you will have to act carefully and competently. The same goes for apartment building- even if you decide to completely replace the riser, this can only be done on your own territory, without violating the network elements either from below or from above. We study how to disassemble sewer pipes, plastic or cast iron, for the purpose of repair or partial replacement.

Disconnecting plastic sewer pipes is not difficult, but only if you act correctly and the system is installed correctly and on flexible connections.

Do not try to move the entire riser up / down - it will not work, firstly (it is seriously fixed), it is fraught with breakdowns, and secondly.

Do not try to deflect the pipe to the side, thereby releasing it from the cross / socket - this will not work either, and if it does, it is fraught.

To normally disconnect the plastic sewer pipes, you first need to drip the cuffs with machine oil ( O-rings) at the joints. Then you should move the pipe in the compensator, calmly disassemble the system and replace everything that needs to be replaced (although you need to act very quickly, especially when the neighbors are at home and angry).

Compensator - a part designed specifically for disassembly in order to replace / repair sewer elements. It provides a vertical displacement of a dozen cm, which is quite enough. Ideally, the compensator must be on each plastic riser.

To remove the pipe from the cross or tee, it is necessary to turn it around the axis with an upward movement. No compensator? Life, alas, is not perfect. You will have to cut pipes and change everything completely (when assembling the system, do not forget to put a compensator).

How to cut a sewer pipe

Plastic structures cut with a saw, grinder (knife, ax), with grief in half, then removing the chamfer. The remaining notches violate the integrity sealing collar, which subsequently causes leaks. For cutting there special tool- pipe cutter

The tool is different - you need to buy not anyhow, but one that is suitable in diameter and designed for a specific material (HDPE, metal-plastic, fiberglass, etc.). Special scissors are also produced for this purpose. Ratchet devices cost twice as much as conventional devices, but they make a perfect cut, which is extremely important for the sewer system.

Video: how to cut a plastic pipe

If the elements are not separated

When sewer system for more than 10 years, the o-rings and cuffs seem to grow together with the plastic. Separating the elements is quite problematic (the difficulty is not invented: this is constantly encountered).

Ways craftsmen:

Soak WD-40, then replace the soaked.
Break with a crowbar if everything is going to be replaced.
wrap the pipe sandpaper(abrasive side to the pipe), and then try to unscrew it all the same (if the hands do not slide already on the paper).
Break into pieces with pliers.
Cut the pipe, grinder (or angle grinder; small disk) cut the part that is in the socket, get the pieces.
Fill joints silicone grease and warm up building hair dryer(but don't melt!).

Expert way:

Use two gas wrenches intended for such purposes: hold the bell with one key, and turn the released part with the second.

If the connection is rigid - made by traditional caulking with tow with a cement lock device, the separation process is similar to that of a cast-iron sewer.

How to disconnect cast iron sewer pipes

First of all, you should get rid of the cement lock (sealing the socket - caulking with tow and locking devices). The work is not easy - it requires almost tenderness due to the structure of cast iron, crumbling from rough handling, despite its strength. The cement lock is destroyed with a screwdriver or chisel.

Cast iron is cut with a grinder. First, the pipe is dismantled. Then, in the part remaining in the socket, two cuts are carefully made (at a distance of 100 mm from each other) in a small circle. Pieces are knocked out of the socket with a chisel (they knock on it with a hammer - it is strictly forbidden to hit the cast iron with a hammer directly).

Important! Do not use brute force - you will break the entire system. Cast iron is brittle. You need to act very carefully.

Even if the socket is on the replacement tee, you must work carefully so as not to damage the lower pipe included in the same tee (unless, of course, you are going to replace everything at the neighbors). After removing all the fragments, the socket is thoroughly cleaned of rust, dirt, etc.

Cast iron risers once massively put in apartment buildings(the designs are still preserved today). Certain parts were produced at the factory. They did the chasing there. Sulfur was used for this. It is possible to disassemble such a system only with the use of open fire. In this case, sulfur emits toxic fumes - a respirator is needed. We do not recommend doing this work on your own - it is actually dangerous.

The use of open fire when dismantling cast iron pipes

Simple rules for working with sewers

Pipes are mounted starting from the bottom.
The bells are placed towards the flow.
The riser is completely changed, without bothering to repair individual components (during work, vibration is inevitable, leading to cracks, which in turn lead to leaks).
active stage works - the second. The first is markup creation.
Before assembly, the sealing parts are lubricated with machine oil (if no sealant is required).
The diameter of the pipes for connecting the toilet bowl is 110–160 mm.
The diameter of the pipes for connecting the sink is 50–70 mm.

Theoretically, disassembling plastic sewer pipes does not cause difficulties. However, we recommend that you contact a specialist. The problem is that in apartment buildings it is extremely difficult to negotiate with neighbors. It is even more difficult to ensure that the agreements reached with difficulty are adhered to by everyone without exception. Professionals have verified movements for years - to replace important elements seconds go by. Even the pros have a habitual rumor, which determines what “now tramples” long before it falls.

Dismantling a cast-iron sewer is difficult in itself. Especially when there are parts whose excellent tightness was achieved even at the Soviet plant. With such a system, a direct road to specialists.

Video: how to cut a sewer pipe along

The question of how to cut a plastic sewer pipe lengthwise interested us extremely. Not so much even how to cut, but why do it. Need creative pots for potted flowers?.. There are no gutters for drainage system? Our imagination did not go further than the drain (and here it slowed down terribly: a finished gutter 3 m long costs the same as a meter pipe, that is, in the end it is a third cheaper). It turns out that we just have a poor imagination.

Jokes are jokes, and the method of making beautiful marks with a thread is a masterpiece, as is the fastening of the cutter in wooden block.

Now you know not only how to cut along the plastic sewer pipe but why do it. We offer to frolic with pipes in this context, and in case of sewage malfunctions, contact specialists.

The most difficult step when replacing an old pipeline is the dismantling of a cast-iron pipe that has served its purpose. Previously, in the construction of communications, cast iron pipes were used, the connection of which took place with cement mortar, sulfur or aluminum. Pipelines assembled using the last two substances are very difficult to destroy, so you need to prepare for long dismantling works. And this article will tell you about the technology for their implementation.

General progress

At first it may seem that dismantling outdated communications is a trifling matter, because breaking is not building. However, just the right, qualified approach is needed here, because otherwise it is easy to damage the riser connecting several apartments at once. And this is a real disaster, the consequence of which will be the need to replace the common riser and, of course, the boundless indignation of the neighbors.

Dismantle the cast-iron pipe carefully, adhering to the following sequence:

Turn off the supply of tap water to the apartment.
Disconnection with a wrench of the hose supplying water to flush tank, from the toilet.
Dismantling the toilet bowl (it is necessary to unscrew the bolts securing it to the floor).

Freeing the bathroom from extraneous things and equipment that may interfere with the conduction (bidet, sink, washing machine etc.).
Demolition of the old sewerage system. Due to the fact that cast iron is characterized by high brittleness, pipes located at some distance from the riser can be easily broken with a hammer.
Removal of pipes connected directly to the old riser.
Installation of the cuff on the socket of the tee. First you need to thoroughly clean the bell from old lubricants that prevent quality installation new sewer system.

Dismantling instructions

Destruction of joints with a burner

If the joints of the cast-iron pipeline are fastened with sulfur, this greatly complicates the task of dismantling. However, we have some tips on how to disassemble the cast iron sewer pipes in this case. like anything Chemical substance, sulfur is destroyed under certain influences, namely, with prolonged heating with an open flame. High temperatures make it viscous and plastic, so that the removal of the substance from the surface becomes simple.

To dismantle the pipeline connected with the use of sulfur, prepare a hammer and chisel, as well as a gas burner for heating. By the way, the burner can be replaced with a blowtorch.

When the pipeline is heated by a lamp or burner, a harmful gas, sulfur dioxide, will be released into the surrounding space. Besides, open fire also poses a danger. Therefore, measures to protect life, health and the environment are mandatory. Sulfur heating operations can last several hours so that the combustion products do not harm the lungs, a gas mask is needed, and to prevent accidental ignition of furniture and other items interior fit protective screen metal or asbestos.

Resolution of joints without a burner (video)

If it is not possible to use the burner, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video below.

Dismantling instructions

It is advisable to start dismantling with the analysis of pipes located at a distance from the riser. This is not difficult and most likely there will be no problems if a chisel and a hammer are used, because cast iron is a very brittle metal.

Due to the brittleness of cast iron, it is not recommended to use a hammer with metal nozzles when dismantling. With a strong impact, a part of the cast-iron pipe may be inside the pipeline, thereby reducing its clearance or creating a serious blockage in the sewer system. Therefore, it is better to use hammers with polymer or plastic heads.

So, consider how to remove a cast-iron sewer pipe:

The destruction with a hammer is carried out until a cross is inserted into the riser.

Next, you need to gradually loosen it inside the riser. You can leave a pipe segment connected to the cross, then the operations for the destruction of the cross will be simplified. Some specialists, on the contrary, remove cast-iron pipes to the maximum, exposing the joints to the maximum.
Having dressed in protective equipment and covering the furniture with screens, you should start heating the sulfur. The work will go faster if two people are involved in the dismantling: one melts the connections with a blowtorch or gas burner, and the second one removes the sulfur that has become viscous with a knife.
When eliminated large quantity sulfur from the docking points, the cross is removed from the riser.

Be especially careful when removing pipes connected to a tee located on the riser. Saw off part of the pipe with a grinder, leaving a distance of 10 cm to the riser. Loosen the remaining element and try to remove it from the socket.

Possible problems

The dismantling of the old pipeline must be carried out to the maximum possible limit, since it is better to cut off the cast-iron pipe to the point where it passes into the socket. Then joining a new plastic pipeline and a cast-iron pipe will take less time and effort. Do not think about how to cut a cast-iron pipe, use a grinder.

How to cut a cast-iron pipe if you don't have a grinder? Take a hacksaw and get to work, but this will naturally increase the duration of dismantling operations.

If dismantling attempts fail, you should not be upset: they are sold in stores specially designed for connecting cast iron and polymer pipes.

Sometimes when cutting plastic pipes difficulties may arise. Try sawing it in half around the circumference, and then apply slight pressure or make a slight rotation - the pipe will burst.

If the pipe cannot be removed from the socket of the riser, and you no longer know how to pull out the cast-iron pipe, make cuts in a circle along the pipe with an interval of about 20 mm, reaching the socket, and then remove it from the riser.

Before connecting cast-iron pipes and polymer pipes, it is required to clean the first ones from sulfur, using the same heating. Once the sulfur has been removed, the pipes are allowed to cool, usually several hours. At the final stage, the installation of a new sewer network is being carried out. It is best to purchase pipes from modern materials: plastic or metal-plastic.

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