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How to do the redevelopment of the bathroom with your own hands?

Quite often, both in a separate private house and in an apartment, one has to face the need to carry out repairs, finish something, change some elements of the interior for new ones. Often, households resort to redevelopment of a particular room. And in most cases, one has to turn to professional designers and builders. After all, not every ordinary resident of a high-rise building is able to correctly calculate all the necessary partitions, weight general design and much more, on which the condition of the whole house and the safety of its inhabitants depend.

Often there is a need to redevelop the bathroom. In order to correctly transfer all water supply and other communications, it is necessary to carefully study the transfer rules.

But still, there are several events that you can cope with even with your own with my own hands. And this is not only painting this or that interior element, pasting the walls with wallpaper and changing floor covering. Thanks for the advice experienced craftsmen and minimal experience in construction and finishing work, it is quite possible to cope with such activities as installing a window, replacing pipes, and even moving a toilet bowl from one room to another. It is this element that more often than other plumbing migrates from one room to another.

How to share a combined bathroom?

Currently, in both old and new houses there are apartments with a combined toilet and bathroom. Despite the fact that this move significantly saves space in the room, the implementation of this event is defined by many as optional. It is quite possible in this case to do without any combinations, since this turns out to be rather inconvenient.

That is why many owners of apartments with similar amenities, after a certain period of time, resort to redevelopment of existing square meters precisely in order to disconnect the previously connected technique. It is necessary to decide first how widely the bath with the toilet will be placed from each other, and after that also what equipment will remain in its place and which will have to be moved away. In most cases, it is easier to move the toilet than to move the tub and sink.

Most often, combined bathrooms are located in apartments. panel houses. They were built several decades ago, but are currently used even in their original form. Few people dare to carry out at least some movement of furniture in them, not to mention a radical redevelopment. The toilet in these rooms is most often located in the corner opposite the door. The riser is in the other corner - directly opposite the toilet. In most cases, the toilet is retracted by a relatively small distance, which is sometimes a simple rotation of the toilet about the axis of movement.

So, the division of the bathroom in this case occurs by erecting a partition, but in this case it will not be very convenient to use the toilet, since in this process the wall will interfere on one side, and on the other, the newly installed partition. Therefore, the movement of the toilet is absolutely necessary.

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How to move the toilet with your own hands and turn it?

The sequence of installation of a toilet with an oblique outlet.

In order to avoid similar situations, it is necessary to calculate at what angle to the axis of the room it will be installed new toilet. Usually this angle is at least 45 °. When buying new equipment, be sure to pay attention to which drain tank is included with it. You don't need corner model, as it is not suitable for installation in a new location. Otherwise, you can completely and completely rely on your taste and choose absolutely any material and color, and even size. This applies, first of all, to the toilet bowl. Well, the tank should not be too big. Most often, in such designs, a toilet bowl is installed with cistern not more than 40 cm wide.

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The main stages of turning and transferring the toilet

Materials you will need:

1. Special 45° WC elbow.
2. Fan pipe with a diameter of 1-1.2 cm.
3. Trumpet.
4. Elbows 90°, diameter 100-120 mm.
5. Solid oil or silicone.

The fan pipe in this case is necessary in order to lengthen the knee and move the toilet as close to the corner as possible. In the process of transferring the toilet, an area uncovered with tiles (or some other floor covering) will remain in the floor. Since it will be very visible, you will need, in addition to dividing the room and transferring equipment, to also resort to repairing the floor. Quite often, when repairing a room with your own hands, this process is delayed for an indefinite period. After all, repairs are carried out only in their free time. Naturally, there is a problem associated with the lack of familiar and necessary convenience for everyone. Saving will be a long corrugated plastic pipe that will connect the outlet Wastewater with a toilet.

Even if you get it, it is better to try to finish this business as early as possible.

After all, this process is unpleasant not only for those who directly carry out repairs, but also for the rest of the household. The smell will not go away until the new toilet is properly installed and securely fastened.

Scheme of the assembly of the toilet bowl and drain tank.

Once every detail has found its place, the knee will need to be disassembled and reassembled, but using rubber sealing cuffs. To facilitate this process, a special grease with silicone or grease is used. The elbow outlet is then connected to the pipe in the riser. The connected structure is completely ready for finishing installation. In conclusion, it remains to adjust the slope of the outlet element from the toilet bowl. This slope should not be too steep, sometimes an angle of 2-3° is sufficient.

Next, go to the toilet pedestal. Through the mounting holes, it is necessary to mark the points at which the new toilet will be installed. It is at these points that the bolts and dowels for fixing the equipment will be. At the same time, do not forget to substitute the toilet bowl against them in advance and check if it rests against the wall. If everything is in order, you can proceed to drilling holes in the floor according to the marks made. Next, install the toilet bowl on the floor again and fasten it with bolts.

In order to move the toilet, you should use options such as:

1. Transfer plumbing equipment for a short distance - 10-20 centimeters.

2. Transfer of plumbing equipment over a considerable distance. In the event that the distance over which the toilet bowl is transferred exceeds the length of the corrugation, it is necessary to remake the sewer.

Features of installing a corner toilet

In fact, a corner toilet is no different from a conventional toilet. The difference is only in the form drain tank. Its shape is triangular, which does not reduce its volume in any way. Such models are considered unusual and perfectly preserve the summary space.

Installation of this type of toilet is different from the installation of conventional plumbing. In older apartments where the riser is parallel, installing a corner toilet is more problematic. In this case, you can use a corrugation or extension cord. Specialists in plumbing equipment advise using a shorter corrugation, since in this case it is easier to clean it. Also the toilet corner type You can not only put it on the floor, but also hang it on the wall.

There is nothing easier than fixing the toilet to the floor!

In order for plumbing equipment to function properly and not cause trouble, when installing it, it is necessary to follow the rules and features of such equipment. In order to do this, you can use such mounting options as:

1. Mount the toilet on the dowels. Most best way suitable for flat surfaces on which the future toilet will be installed. Any differences in the height of the floor and its other irregularities will adversely affect the flush.

2. Mount the toilet bowl with glue. This is a simpler, but more time-consuming way. It will take about 15 hours for the mixture on which the base of the toilet is glued to solidify. Ideal for mounting on floor tiles.

3. Mount the toilet bowl on taffeta. Perfect for when you need to install a toilet on wooden floor. By itself, taffeta has a wooden structure on which plumbing fixtures are attached. So that the tree does not rot under the influence of dampness, it must be treated with drying oil.

In general, moving the toilet is not difficult. The main thing is to do everything according to the rules. And with such work, the specialists of "Problem-in-the-House.NET" will cope, who fulfill all the conditions for the installation of plumbing equipment efficiently and quickly. You can also contact the company by phone

The bathroom of a standard apartment most often has a small area, so the owners of the premises have to “use” every centimeter to the maximum free space. The result of design research is often the desire to move or deploy the toilet. This is a responsible and difficult undertaking. To carry it out, you can invite specialists, but you can do it on your own. Let's figure out how to do all the work correctly.

"Pitfalls" of these works

Moving plumbing equipment some distance from the riser at first glance seems to be a very simple and hassle-free solution. But in reality this is not so. Increasing the length of sewer pipes suitable for equipment threatens with trouble. When flushed, an excessive vacuum will occur in them, which will provoke a breakdown of the water seal in all nearby plumbing fixtures. This process will be accompanied by extremely unpleasant odors from the sewer and gurgling sounds.

Often, only moving plumbing equipment some distance from the sewer riser can solve the problem of optimizing space in the bathroom.

Another problem is the increased likelihood of blockages. When moving the equipment, the length of the pipe that connects the device to the sewer riser increases. Accordingly, the path of impurities is lengthened. Theoretically, in any case, the drains will reach the sewer, but the likelihood of blockages increases many times over. Both problems can be solved with strict adherence to prescriptions. current SNiP. The document prohibits removing the plumbing fixture from the pipe further than 1.5 m.

Another important indicator is . For parts with a diameter of 100 mm, it should be at least 2 cm per meter. Parts with a diameter of 50 mm must be laid with a slope of at least 3 cm per meter. This requirement must be strictly followed. Reducing the slope reduces the speed of drains, which can cause blockages. Too much bias is also undesirable. In this case, the water will pass through the pipes too quickly, leaving solid contaminants. They will gradually accumulate inside the pipes, preventing the free outflow of fluid.

Very often, the owner of the bathroom understands that in order to ensure a sufficient slope sewer pipe the toilet will have to be raised, and the lifting height can be quite large. It all depends on the diameter of the pipe and the distance that the device needs to be removed. There can be two options for solving the problem: either raise the floor in the bathroom and mask the pipeline in it, or install a kind of podium under the toilet. Both options are quite viable, but in practice the second is most often used. As the least time-consuming and quite convenient solution.

To ensure the slope of the pipeline prescribed by SNiP, the equipment can be placed on a special podium

There is one more thing to keep in mind when planning the migration of equipment. The pipeline laid from the riser to the toilet must be a line without right angles. In cases where this is not possible, instead of a sharp 90° bend, two 45° turns should be arranged. This is necessary to minimize the risk of blockages.

SNiP sets rather strict requirements for the transfer plumbing fixture and they are all in without fail must be fulfilled, otherwise problems with the operation of the equipment cannot be avoided. At the same time, you need to understand that if the toilet needs to be moved more than 1.5 m, the recommendations of SNiP will not “work”. In this case, you either need to transfer sewer riser, which is practically impossible, or equip forced sewage. Last option it can also be used with a shorter distance from the riser to the toilet, provided that there is no possibility or desire to bother with laying the pipe with the desired slope and raising the floor level in the bathroom.

Toilet transfer technology

The equipment can be moved to different distances, with different angle turning the device. Depending on this, a simple transfer option and a more complex one are distinguished.

Option # 1 - transfer by 10-20 centimeters

It is assumed that the equipment is transferred over a short distance, which does not exceed 10-20 cm. We start by dismantling the old device. If the device was “planted” on cement or glue and its outlet was also smeared with cement, you will have to tinker with its dismantling. One wrong move and the toilet will crack. If it is planned to install a new device, you can not be careful with the old one, if this is not the case, turn off the water and very carefully perform the following operations:

• We free from putty from the space between the outlet of the device and the sewer socket. For manipulation, you can use a narrow chisel or a strong screwdriver.
• Carefully loosen the toilet. To do this, carefully hammer under the base in different places wide chisel. Repeat the operation until the device starts to swing.
• We raise the toilet. First, we feed the device towards ourselves and take out the outlet from the socket of the sewer pipe strictly along its axis. Plumbers warn that if the device gets stuck and does not feed, you can’t pull hard. It is necessary to shake the device very carefully, and then pull it again.

Equipment installed on standard fasteners and connected to the sewer rubber cuff comes off much easier. To remove it, you will need to unscrew the screws that secure the device. Then we feed the device towards ourselves strictly in the direction of the axis of the sewer pipe and remove the outlet from it.

If the toilet after dismantling must remain in working order, all operations are performed very carefully. The putty that secures the outlet of the device in the sewer socket is destroyed with extreme caution

After carrying out all the work, you can begin preparations for installing the device in a new location. We examine the old flexible eyeliner. If its length is not enough or it leaks, change it to suitable model. If the item is in good condition - leave everything as it is.

A toilet bowl connected to a socket with a corrugation is much easier to dismantle. You only need to remove the mounts from the device and remove the flexible corrugation

To connect the toilet outlet to the sewer socket, you will need a corrugation. Despite the fact that from its two ends are installed rubber seals, for safety net it is worth using silicone sealant. In addition, you need to prepare special fasteners. It is very important that the steel fasteners do not press against the sanitary ware, so the presence of plastic washers on the fasteners is mandatory. Then install the device:

• We outline on the floor places for fastening. We drill holes. If you have to work with tiles, first we go through the tiles special drill slightly larger diameter.
• We clean the sewer socket and toilet outlet and wipe them dry.
• We apply silicone sealant to the corrugation. We put it on the release of equipment.
• We install the device in place, insert the fasteners into the prepared holes and carefully tighten them. After the device stops staggering, we immediately stop tightening the fasteners.
• We cover the gaps remaining between the floor and the base with a solution. Thus, we create an additional support that will not allow the lateral force to destroy the base.
• Lubricate the second part of the corrugation with sealant and insert it into the socket.

It must be remembered that the toilet is a rather fragile sanitary ware, so you need to act very carefully.

Corrugation - a flexible connecting element that greatly facilitates the connection of the toilet to the sewer. His main disadvantage- fragility

Option #2 - long distance transfer

If the device is to be moved to a distance that exceeds the length of the corrugation, it will be necessary to remake the sewer. The procedure for dismantling and subsequent installation of the device is no different from the above described option. The difference lies in the build-up of sewerage. For this procedure, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is most often used. The number, length and configuration of the connecting elements depend on the new location of the toilet bowl. The plastic pipeline is laid on the floor or attached to the wall with special clamps.

There are several nuances to which you should pay special attention. To lower the sewer to the floor level, you will have to remove the outlet to the toilet from a cross or a tee. For plastic elements it's not hard. If the parts are made of cast iron, it is best to warm up the bell first gas burner or blowtorch. This is done so that the sealant burns out and the cement putty cracks. Connections filled with sulfur are also annealed with a blowtorch. This creates a very strong bad smell. It is mandatory to use a gas mask and well ventilate the room.

After that, removing the pipe from the socket is not difficult. It is best to start the installation of a new pipeline from the riser. At the same time, we do not forget about the necessary slope, which is about 1-2 cm for each running meter. For installation plastic pipe in cast iron socket it is optimal to use a special cuff-seal. It is best to install it by pre-lubricating the joint with silicone sealant.

Installation of the toilet with the help of special fasteners must be carried out very carefully. It is important to remember that the steel screws must not touch the sanitary ware. When installing them, be sure to use gaskets

The toilet can be connected, this is considered the simplest, but at the same time short-lived option. It is used only when it is possible to provide unhindered access to the connecting element. A special transition pipe can be used, which is somewhat more difficult to install than a corrugation, but gives a more reliable and durable connection. There may also be a connection using linen winding. This is an outdated, but quite reliable option.

Is it still worth it to do this work yourself?

Transferring a plumbing fixture from a riser is a rather complicated undertaking. It is very important to correctly calculate all the transfer parameters, determine the correct slope of the pipes, the location of the device and, if necessary, accurately select the system forced sewage. The slightest errors in calculations or installation can lead to very unpleasant problems that are difficult to solve in the form of chronic blockages and an unpleasant smell that cannot be removed in the bathroom.

To everyone who doesn't have real experience installation of plumbing equipment, you can be advised to seek help from specialists. Professionals will appreciate existing conditions help you choose necessary equipment and correctly install it. The toilet bowl will be placed exactly where the owner wants, and will function flawlessly.

Any repair is always associated not only with the installation of new equipment, but also with the dismantling of the old one. Many people think that it is very difficult to do this with their own hands, meanwhile, the work is quite simple and quite capable even for those who have never encountered such issues. In this article, we will look at how to competently and accurately remove old plumbing and give some recommendations for installing new systems.

Important Aspects

Even before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with a few recommendations that will help simplify the process and speed it up as much as possible:

Work procedure

It is worth noting that the question of how to dismantle the toilet is inextricably linked with how to install a new one, so we will consider all the work as a whole, especially since they can be done within a few hours.

Dismantling

During this stage, a number of activities are carried out:

• First of all, you should free the surrounding space from everything that can interfere with the work process. The room should be free from furniture, various fixtures, and so on.
• Then the water supply communications are disconnected, while all the remaining water is carefully drained, and the tank is released by flushing. The less fluid left in the system, the easier it will be further work and the less you have to clean the floor after work.
• After that, you can proceed to remove the tank, this will significantly reduce the total weight of the structure, simplify access to the toilet and prevent the structure from falling when it is released. In compact systems, it is necessary to unscrew the two bolts and carefully remove the container, in hanging options it is enough to remove the structure from the wall, it is better to do this in advance so that later you do not add garbage to the vacated area.

• The next stage is the release of the base, the type of work depends on the method of attachment. If anchors were used, then they should be loosened with a key and removed, then the base is released with a chisel and a hammer, while there is a high probability of damage to the floor covering or toilet bowl, but nothing can be done, especially if the fastening was made on mortar or bitumen.

Advice!
To accurately separate the base from the floor, you can try to rip it off with a pry bar, very often this option allows you to work much faster and easier.

• Lastly, the system is disconnected from the sewer, if the connection is smeared with a solution, the layer is broken, if it is sealed with rags and paint, it is separated and removed.

Mounting

Let's figure out how to install a toilet with your own hands, since the price of such services is often unreasonably high.

The work instruction is as follows:

• First of all, a site is being prepared for the installation of new equipment, it can be tiled or poured cement mortar. At the same stage, the problem of how to raise the toilet bowl higher above the floor is solved - you can build a small pedestal and mount the equipment already on it.
• If a rearrangement was planned, then before moving the toilet to another place, everything should be brought there necessary communications. This is very important, since it is impossible to install the system where there is no water supply and sewerage.

Advice!
To increase the height in some models, you can purchase a special platform, this allows you to greatly simplify the work and raise the system without unnecessary operations.

• You should also consider how to turn the toilet 90 degrees, the easiest way to do this is with corrugations- it will connect communications without unnecessary alterations and provide reliable connection elements.
• The work is carried out very simply: first, the toilet is tried on to the place of the approximate installation, if everything is fine, the position and attachment points are marked. After that, holes for anchor bolts are drilled.
• Next, the structure is installed, attached to the anchors, the seam between the floor and the base is sealed to protect against moisture and dirt.
  
• Joins last flexible eyeliner and put corrugation. After that, the system is checked for tightness through 2-3 test drains, if everything is fine, the work can be considered completed.

AT panel houses separate or combined bathrooms are located small size. When combining a bathroom with a toilet, it becomes possible to compactly install a floor-standing toilet, place a washing machine nearby so as not to clutter up the kitchen or corridor. This requires the toilet to be installed with a 90° turn (instead of the normal position). But this raises the question: how to install, as well as hide sewer pipes in the wall.

Hiding pipes in the bathroom

After dismantling the bathroom, laying new partitions from foam blocks, chasing, diamond cutting the wall through (with inside and from the kitchen). There is a need to hide most of the sewer pipe with a diameter of 110mm, into a wall 75mm thick. At the same time, the width of the decorative design of this pipe (box) using ceramic tiles behind the toilet will look more miniature, which will be displayed on general view space and design of the entire bathroom.

To hide the pipes, we make a connection of sewer corners and a “tee” connection, for right angle flushing the toilet and washing machine. In this case, the height of the floor tiles must be taken into account. In a combined bathroom, a toilet bowl is usually installed with a straight, horizontal release, the height of the connection from the floor is 180 mm relative to the center of the sewer outlet.

Toilet installation

We drill holes in the floor tiles, install the toilet, fix it with special fixing screws (connect to the sewer outlet). At the bottom, a small gap between the part (bowl) of the toilet bowl and the floor tiles must be covered with sealant. Next, unfold the toilet and install a washing machine next to it - the main advantage of a combined bathroom. More on Video.

Prices for construction and finishing works, when installing and turning the toilet bowl: