How to replace an old toilet with a new one. How to replace a toilet bowl with your own hands - dismantling, installation and connection. What worries you the most

Properly installed plumbing equipment can work for years. However, everything has a certain service life and there comes a time when it becomes clear that the replacement of the toilet bowl is inevitable. For many, this procedure does not deliver special trouble: one has only to call one of several dozen companies providing plumbing services, and the masters will carry out all the work in a matter of hours. However, for a number of reasons this may not be possible and then the equipment will have to be changed independently.

What needs to be prepared before work?

First of all, you should buy a new toilet. To do this, you should understand the design and dimensions of the old one. We measure the room in detail and carry out a simple drawing, on which we indicate installed toilet and sewer and water pipes connected to it. We check the angle of the drain neck. It is usually 45°, but it is better to check this again. If such work is to be carried out for the first time, and there is very little experience, you can take a picture of the structure with your phone before going to the store in order to consult with the seller regarding the type of new device.

Choosing a new toilet based on the drawing and photo will be much easier. We pay attention to the dimensions of the device, the shape and design features. On sale you can find devices with different depth and shape of the bowl, slope drain hole and flush designs. Let's not forget about design. Among the various shades and materials, you should choose the best option for your room. With other identical parameters of the device, it is worth giving preference to equipment from famous companies producing better quality products.

A marker will be needed to mark the structure. It is lowered into the mounting holes and marked on the floor for the holes, then the device is circled around the contour

In addition to the toilet, you should purchase a small set of items necessary for installation:

• Water hose. Its length is measured by old part, a new one is taken with a small margin.
• Toilet mounts. They may come with the equipment, but if not, they need to be purchased.
• flexible corrugated pipe or a corrugation that connects the toilet to the sewer.
• Cistern. You should check the contents of the tank. If the drain system is not included, it will have to be purchased separately.

You will also need silicone, but not acrylic, sealant, white or transparent, as well as fum-tape and gaskets for water pipes. Of the tools, you can not do without a puncher with a set of drills, it can be replaced with an impact drill with drills, a hammer, a set of screwdrivers and wrenches, marker, sharp knife and chisel. Having prepared everything you need, you need to think about how to shoot old toilet.

Dismantling of the old structure

Before starting work, it is worth preparing buckets and a large number of rags. We start by disconnecting the water pipe from the drain tank from the device. Drain as much water as possible and open the tank. The toilet is ready for dismantling. If he is already very many years old, then most likely he was installed on the solution. In this case, you need to prepare for the fact that it will not be possible to remove the device whole. Especially if its neck is packed with rags with paint.

Among the recommendations on how to remove the toilet easier, you can find advice to start work from the drain neck. It really is. It is best to hit the neck hard and, splitting it, disconnect the device from the pipe. In addition, the vibration from the impact will slightly shake the base of the structure, fixed in the solution, which will facilitate further work. Important note: Do not hit the sewer directly. If it is cast iron, which is the case in most cases, it is very easy to split it, which will lead to additional problems.

Shards of the old toilet should be carefully removed. We clean the neck of the sewer pipe from dirt, otherwise it will be impossible to carry out high-quality sealing of the new device

Having broken the neck, we begin to disconnect the device from the floor. If it does not lend itself to swinging and does not move, we take a hammer and with a chisel we begin to chip the structure from the base. It is possible that as a result of these works, water will flow from the broken device. It must be collected with rags in a bucket. We break off the fragments of the toilet bowl, remove the remnants of the solution in which it was fixed and, if possible, equalize the floor. We clean the edge of the sewer from fragments of the neck. It is best to do this with old screwdrivers or use a chisel. The operation is carried out very carefully so as not to damage the pipe.

Ways to install new equipment

After dismantling the old toilet, you should repair the floor, if it was supposed to, or just level it as much as possible before installing new equipment. There are several ways to install a toilet bowl.

Method # 1 - installation on taffeta

This is the traditional way to install a toilet. For him, you need taffeta, this is the name of the board from hard rock wood, carefully oiled. It is laid in the floor under the base of the device so that it is flush with the floor covering or rises slightly above it. wooden base should be securely fastened to the anchors and fill the resulting recess cement mortar. After the surface has completely dried, you can proceed with the installation of the device.

Taffeta, a carefully oiled hardwood board, is installed in the floor in place intended for the toilet. A layer of solution is applied over it

The outlet of the equipment is connected to the fan pipe, then to the pipe socket sewer system. All connections are treated with sealant and sealed with tow. The equipment is installed in the right place and firmly fixed with screws, under the heads of which rubber washers must be laid. The drain tank is mounted and the tightness of the system is checked. The device is ready to work. It should be noted that this method of dismantling and installing the toilet is perhaps the most time-consuming compared to others.

Method # 2 - glue connection

As practice shows, plumbing equipment can be installed using epoxy glue. To do this, the contact surfaces must be carefully prepared. They are cleaned and degreased with white spirit, solvent or acetone. They make them rougher, re-degrease and dry.

After connecting the outlet of the device and the sewer system, an even layer is applied to the supporting surface. thin layer epoxy glue. The toilet bowl is installed on the prepared place and pressed to the floor with force. After that, they are kept until the glue is completely cured, which will happen no earlier than after 12 hours.

Method # 3 - mounting on dowels

Mounting the toilet on dowels involves mounting the device directly to the floor, without preset any structure under its base

by the most practical way how to change the toilet can be considered the method of fastening to the dowels. During the work, the following operations will be performed:

• Sample device. We install a toilet bowl on the prepared base and check the coincidence of the height of the neck and the sewer pipe, the angle of inclination, etc. If there are discrepancies, we make the necessary adjustments.
• Let's mark up the structure. We measure the width of the room, find the middle or axis of the toilet bowl. We install a device on it at a distance of 10-15 cm from the socket of the sewer pipe. We insert the marker into the mounting holes and make marks for the holes, circle the base.
• We collect the drain tank. In accordance with the instructions, we assemble the device, after which we attach it to the toilet bowl. For complete confidence in the quality of the work carried out, you can re-install the device in place, connect it to the sewerage and water supply and conduct a test run. After making sure that everything is in order, we drain the water and continue to carry out work on replacing the toilet with our own hands.
• Preparing mounting holes. Using an impact drill or puncher, we make holes in the intended places. We hammer plastic dowels into them.
• We seal the corrugation. We wipe the pipe dry with a rag and apply silicone with a richly wavy strip on the ribs of the gum, which will be hidden in the sewer. We carry out a similar operation from the opposite end of the corrugation, lubricating the area that is put on the toilet neck.
• We connect the device to the sewer. We insert the corrugation to the edge of the elastic band into sewer pipe, and on the other hand, we firmly put on the release of equipment. On the toilet seat, which was previously outlined with a marker, we lay a special rubber gasket or apply thick layer silicone.
• We install equipment. We put the device on the prepared place, press it and fasten it to the floor. We remove the excess silicone squeezed out during installation with a wet finger, passing it along the contour of the device.

Installation completed. It is possible to carry out a test run of water. If the work is carried out correctly, the tank is filled to the desired level and the flow of fluid stops. Overflow does not occur. After draining the water, the cycle repeats. You should also check that the equipment is not leaking anywhere. If so, then the installation can be considered successfully completed.

Recommendations on how to change the toilet with your own hands are quite simple. Even a novice plumber can perform them. You need to carefully study the instructions, prepare everything you need and without haste to carry out all the installation steps. The result will delight all household members. A properly installed toilet will serve you well for many years to come.

Plumbing in the bathroom breaks down quite often. There can be many reasons for this, but the outcome is always the same - the equipment must be replaced. This is where it comes up main question: how to replace the toilet bowl with your own hands qualitatively and without unnecessary movements?

Good preparation is the key successful work. Get necessary set tools, related materials and detailed instructions for beginners. Following the recommendations outlined in the article, and taking into account the likely mistakes, you can handle the replacement of the toilet yourself.

At first glance, the wording may seem strange. Anyone understands that the toilet needs to be changed when it is out of order. But in fact, most of the problems associated with malfunctions of the sewer system and the toilet in particular can be fixed without replacing the plumbing.

Most often, the following malfunctions occur:

• flows from under the bowl;
• cracks in ceramics;
• not nice smell from the sewer.

If water is constantly flowing from your tank, this is a serious reason to think. Such wasteful use of water is contrary to current trend protection environment and savings natural resources. If it drips from the tank onto the floor and you are tired of placing basins, and all pipe connections are normal, most likely the cause was a chip or crack.

In this case, you can only temporarily solve the problem, but the toilet should be replaced as soon as possible. But if the water from the tank flows down the wall of the bowl into the sewer - good news, most likely there is no need to change the plumbing.

The cause of such a malfunction is often a leaky valve. Luckily, the entire inside of the cistern is sold separately and can simply be replaced.

Plumbing faience and porcelain are fragile materials that are unstable to sudden changes in temperature. Enamel can become covered with a network of cracks, which not only spoil the aesthetic appearance, but also threaten the destruction of the entire product.

Such a crack is a bad sign. It could appear as a result of the fall of something heavy or simply from a temperature difference.

If cracks or chips appear on the toilet, try to replace it as soon as possible. You never know at what point ceramics will not withstand and will burst under the weight of a person, exposure to water, or simply from internal stress.

It’s good if at this moment someone is nearby and can quickly eliminate the consequences of the disaster, otherwise you can count on the upcoming repairs in the toilet of the neighbors below.

In this case, everything is already clear - there will be a replacement! Unfortunately, this happens very often and not only with old toilets.

A set of necessary tools for work

A set of plumbing tools to replace an old toilet bowl is standard. Depending on the condition of the old equipment that will have to be dismantled and sewer pipes, as well as on the chosen method of attaching the new plumbing fixture, kit the right tools may change a little.

Prepare the following necessary items:

• perforator;
• wrench;
• screwdriver
• hacksaw for metal or grinder;
• sealant gun;
• hammer and chisel;
• rubber spatula;
• building level;
• funds personal protection- Goggles, gloves.

A puncher will be needed to knock out holes in concrete for dowels, on which a new toilet will be attached. An adjustable wrench is used to connect the water supply. To tighten the screws, you will need a flat or Phillips screwdriver, and to seal the joints, you will need a gun for a sealant bottle.

In disassembled form, a modern toilet-compact looks like this. Mounting kit, rubber O-rings and bottle drain can be packed separately. No need to be scared, it all comes together like a constructor

A hammer and chisel may come in handy if the equipment was connected to an old Soviet sewer riser from cast iron. In order for the bowl to be set evenly, a building level is used.

List of required materials

In addition to a set of tools for replacing the toilet with your own hands, you need to purchase additional materials that will be needed during installation:

• sealant;
• corrugation for connection to the riser;
• pipe for connection to the water supply;
• FUM tape;
• tap;
• fastening set.

In any plumbing issue, the moment of sealing is the main thing. Any gap or loose connection threatens to leak.

Silicone sealant in a bottle - best friend when replacing a toilet. They fill all the cracks and gaps, process connections

To connect a plumbing fixture to the sewer, you need to buy a special plastic corrugated pipe. This is convenient because the pipe is flexible and fits in most cases. It can be bent to any position, stretched and compressed.

The corrugated pipe for connecting the toilet to the sewer is universal. It is suitable for both horizontal release, and for release at an angle. Bowls with a vertical drain are connected in a special way - using a special elastic cuff

To seal the joints, sealing tape or tow is used - the old fashioned way. The fixing kit for replacing the toilet bowl includes dowels, screws, bolts, washers, nuts, plugs for connecting all components and mounting. Don't worry if something is missing, you can buy it all separately.

Removing an old toilet

To replace an old toilet with a new one, you must first produce. If the plumbing is not too old, most likely there will be no problems with dismantling.

Another thing is if the plumbing is actually very old, and the sewer pipes are Soviet-style cast iron. This is where you have to sweat. But first things first.

If a old plumbing not concreted into the floor tightly, consider yourself lucky. Toilet installed on wooden stand, easier to remove. The remains of the tree will need to be removed, and the hole in the floor should be filled with a screed

If everything is not so bad, and the toilet is not so ancient, it will be easier to replace it:

1. Shut off the plumbing. Drain the water tank.
2. Prepare a bucket and rags.
3. Disconnect the tank by unscrewing the bolts from the bottom.
4. Remove the corrugation or plastic eccentric that connects the outlet of the bowl to the sewer.
5. Remove the remaining water from the bowl with a regular sponge.
6. Look at the mounts on the sides of the base. There should be 2 or 4 of them. Unscrew them with a wrench.
7. Use a knife to remove the silicone sealant from under the base.
8. Remove the bowl from the tile.

In the last century, they tried to make repairs "for centuries", overhaul. And installing plumbing was no exception.

You can often find toilet bowls in apartments, planted on a mortar, embedded in a screed, rewound at the base with rags and covered with several layers of paint. At the same time, the connection with the pipe is smeared with a thick layer of cement. Now it seems ridiculous, until you come across the replacement of such a rarity personally.

If you can't unscrew it, you'll have to beat it. Be careful, do not forget to protect your eyes and hands from fragments of earthenware

If you do not feel sorry for ceramics, you can dismantle it in parts. This is where a hammer and chisel come in handy. Tap on the connection between the bowl and the pipe while swinging the mount.

If it does not give in, hit boldly on the neck of the toilet bowl, it will crack. Now it can be extracted. Just don't hit with a hammer cast iron pipe, it is also very fragile and can crack.

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Installing a new plumbing fixture: what to consider?

When the old toilet has been successfully dismantled, it's time to replace the plumbing with a new one. The installation process differs depending on the type of model chosen. Installation of a bowl with a floor mount and a hinged model with a hidden tank is carried out by different methods.

Step by step installation instructions will help you to do this task yourself.

Toilet-compact - a step-by-step installation master class

In order to replace the old toilet bowl with a floor-standing compact type, if the installation will be carried out on tiled floor follow our recommendations:

1. Decide on the location of the new toilet. Put the bowl in the toilet without fastening, try to sit on it, try on several options.
2. When you have exactly decided on the place, circle the base with a washable marker. Mark the attachment points with a marker.
3. Put the plumbing aside. All the necessary marks remained on the floor. Take a drill with a 12-bit drill and drill holes in the tile. It is better to beat concrete with a perforator with a No. 12 drill. Insert dowels into the holes.
4. Take a corrugation or cuff with which you will connect the outlet to the sewer. Install it in place, smearing the joint with sealant.
5. Install the new corrugated toilet in correct position. Thread the bolts into the mounting ears and screw them in with an adjustable wrench. Do not overdo it so as not to pinch or split the ceramic.
6. Connect the toilet to the sewer. Treat all joints with silicone.
7. Place the jar on the bowl. Connect the elements with bolts.
8. You can connect the device to the water supply.

Check all joints and threaded connections for leaks. If everything is fine, you can start using plumbing.

This is how the toilet replacement process looks like step by step. Nothing complicated: drill, hammer, twist, connect to the tank. Even a beginner will cope (+)

It is easier to replace such a floor toilet than to describe the process in words. Modern models are designed so that the floor covering is not damaged.

Step by step, the process of installing a compact type toilet bowl will be presented by the following photo selection:

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After successful completion preparatory work we proceed to fixing and connecting important plumbing in everyday life:

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Features of the installation of toilet bowls with different type releases are described in these articles:

Installation: hanging bowl and hidden tank

Replacing an ordinary toilet with a wall-mounted one with a hidden flush tank is an order of magnitude more difficult than the previous version. Not only equipment replacement, but also repair is carried out here. floor covering, and the construction of a false wall with subsequent finishing tiles or other materials.

The hinged bowl is attached to a solid installation. After finishing the walls metal carcass not visible, the design becomes light. It is better to install a wall-hung washbasin in the bathroom and a bidet of the same design so that the picture is complete.

A detailed description of how to change a conventional toilet bowl to a hinged structure:

1. Mark the installation location. A 110 mm sewer pipe and a water supply are brought to the selected site.
2. Try on the purchased installation (rigid mounting frame). Decide on the height. Standard placement is 450mm from the floor to the seat and 100mm from the floor to the bottom edge of the bowl.
3. Mark the floor and wall mounting points with a marker so that they exactly match the mounting holes.
4. Drill holes with a puncher and install the frame. Make sure the installation is correct using a level.
5. Connect water to the drain tank.
6. Included with the installation is a plan for cutting a sheet of drywall to sew up the installation site. Attach drywall to metal profile and directly to the installation. It is better to use moisture resistant materials.
7. Make the finish to your liking.
8. It's time to replace the toilet bowl itself. Connect it to the sewer corrugation to connect to the pipe. Don't forget the sealant.
9. Screw the bowl directly to the installation frame through tiles and drywall using studs.
10. Connect the device to the sewer and drain tank.

Despite the fact that replacing the toilet with a hinged one will take more time, it's worth it, because such plumbing looks expensive and stylish.

Installing an electronic toilet, supplemented by automatic hygiene functions, is similar to the process of attaching and connecting a simple plumbing fixture, but still has its own nuances:

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Installation and connection of a suspended intelligent toilet bowl is carried out for installation by analogy with a conventional one. But this device requires power supply, for which a separate line is usually drawn due to the sensitivity smart technology

Depending on the location of the plumbing, the installation is selected. For installation near bearing wall block structures are used, frame structures are mounted in any convenient location, masked by a false wall

The cistern of the hanging toilet bowl is mounted in the installation. Its fixation is made earlier than the toilet bowl

The technology of fixing the toilet on the installation allows you to choose the height of the bowl that is optimal for users

Smart plumbing is controlled using a remote control, which also has buttons for selecting functions and automating programs. In addition, the toilet is equipped with mechanical buttons in case of a power outage.

How to avoid common mistakes?

It is difficult to replace the toilet in the toilet with your own hands and not make mistakes, especially when there is little or no experience with plumbing. We have collected a number of the most common plumbing mistakes that beginners make when replacing toilets.

This list will help you avoid unpleasant surprises during the installation process.

Rule #1. So that the water in the sewer does not stagnate, it is necessary to observe the slope. AT building codes and the rules say about a slope of 3-5% towards the riser. If you decide not just to replace the toilet, but also to move it to a new place, do not forget about this rule.

Rule #2. Some are in a hurry to change the toilet at the very beginning of the repair in the toilet. If possible, this should be avoided. The reason is that faience sanitary ware is very fragile and further construction work in the toilet is too likely to damage it. Change ceramics last.

Instead of tow, sealing tape is now often used. It is sold in spools and is easy to use. Be sure to seal the threaded connections when connecting to the water supply during the replacement of plumbing

Rule #3. If your bathroom has a bidet, the wall-mounted toilet should be flush with the top of the toilet. Then the plumbing looks harmonious and it is more convenient to use it.

Rule #4. Replacing sewer pipes must be accompanied by the installation of revisions. Access to inspection hatches in the walls should always be free, since there are aesthetic doors for sale for these purposes.

It is impossible to neglect these rules, otherwise during current repair or emergency you may find yourself in a very uncomfortable position.

Changing the toilet without the help of a professional is a rather risky undertaking. There is a chance to spoil the tiles on the floor or, in the worst case, break the ceramics. But if you are one of those who are not afraid of difficulties and are confident in their abilities, take on the job. The main thing is not to rush and strictly follow the instructions.

Do you have the practical skills of replacing a toilet bowl? Share your accumulated knowledge or ask questions about the selection, dismantling and installation of plumbing. The comment form is located below.

Unpleasant stories associated with the repair will stop only upon completion of the repair itself, and the question of how to change the toilet bowl on your own will appear almost immediately after the repair begins. There can be many reasons for replacing a much-needed accessory, starting with banal cracks in the form of cobwebs, continuing with its true age, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to complete the possible list of reasons.

For those who have no problems with money, questions, in fact, do not arise, but for those who have an acute shortage of money, the incentive to change the toilet themselves is much more significant. It all starts with simple shopping trips, and thoughts, is it worth buying an expensive toilet? The answer arises on its own, dear is not needed.

What worries you the most

AT harsh reality everything is much simpler, you don’t need a golden throne - a toilet bowl, quite an ordinary ceramic one, white and reliable, in the style of the experienced “soviet period” is enough. When it comes time to replace the old toilet with a new one, everyone is initially worried as much as possible, how much it will have to break, the floor, the walls, and how much it will cost.

Old toilets are not much different from new ones, it all depends on the model and attachment. Before you start breaking the old toilet, you should think about how much it needs to be replaced. whether now is the right time for such work, the cost of the work and the cost of the toilet itself. After weighing all the pros and cons, you can make a decision. If the financial side is not as strong as the need for a replacement, you can think about how to change the toilet yourself. And don't be in a hurry dismantling works, it will be very thoughtless to break what is without first buying a new one. Toilet replacement itself skillful hands, lasts no more than two hours, but if you change the units yourself, without being a professional, then the procedure may be delayed.

After all the deliberations and the decision that the replacement of the toilet is necessary, you will need to measure the room in detail, make a simple drawing of what is available, that is, the toilet itself and the water supply and sewerage connected to it. As a rule, the angle of inclination of the drain neck is 45 degrees, but it is necessary to check for greater certainty, it will not hurt to take a picture at least on the phone. Situations are different, and it is very difficult for an inexperienced eye to take into account what is important and what is not. If the reason for the replacement is overhaul or redevelopment, then the question of the safety of the tile disappears. With such a drawing, you can safely go to the store, choose a toilet. It is impossible to trust your own opinion in the absence of 100% experience, it is better to get additional advice from the seller, it will not be superfluous.

What should I buy to replace the toilet

The standard set when buying a new toilet bowl includes - a water hose (measure the length and give a margin), a flexible corrugated pipe (corrugated in the people), a toilet bowl (complete with fasteners), a drain tank. There are cases when the filling is not included in the set of the drain tank, that is, the drain system (in the people minced meat), then it must be bought additionally. Another one important recommendation. You should not hope that in an amateur set, at home, there are dowels of different lengths and diameters, therefore, it is better to buy separately dowels with a diameter of 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm, while various lengths, from 80mm to 140mm. Such a reserve will not be superfluous and will not bring significant monetary losses, but it may come in handy.

The basic kit can be safely supplemented with fum-tape, silicone sealant (not acrylic) transparent or white, and rubber gaskets for a water pipe. This addition is argued by work experience, and for inexperienced workers it is more than a necessity.

The list of tools is relatively modest, a hammer, a chisel, a marker, a set of wrenches and screwdrivers, a tape measure, a sealant syringe, a rotary hammer with a set of rotary drills, or an impact drill and drills, sharp knife and rags. If there is no puncher or drill on the farm, it is better not to be "wiser" but to rent a tool. Having collected everything you need, you can start.

Where to begin

Replacement begins with the dismantling of the old toilet. In the distant past, toilet bowls were mainly installed on a solution, while they were carefully coated with a solution at the base, so it will definitely not work to remove it safe and sound, especially if the drain neck was packed with rags with paint (in most cases it is).

You should not stand on ceremony, having prepared a lot of rags and buckets, you need to disconnect the water pipe from the drain tank, drain the water, and unscrew the tank, after which you can break it. the best way a blow to the drain neck is considered, there is more guarantee that the base of the toilet bowl will lag behind the solution due to vibration, in addition, the neck beats from the blow, so that the toilet bowl is no longer connected to the sewer pipe. It is very important not to hit the sewer, as it is most likely cast iron. And cast iron pricks upon impact, these are unnecessary problems.

If, after the neck has broken and the toilet does not move, you will need a chisel and a hammer to simply prick the toilet at the base. During dismantling, you must be prepared for the fact that water will flow from a broken toilet(most likely not clean at all), rags and buckets will come in handy here. Having carefully removed the remnants of the toilet bowl from its “nest” and removing the remnants of the solution, it will be necessary to clean the sewer from the remnants of the neck. These residues are removed very carefully, so as not to damage the pipe, a chisel and old screwdrivers help a lot here.

Flaws need to be fixed

After the old toilet is removed, it will be too late to wonder how to change it with your own hands, and there is no turning back, so it’s better to proceed carefully and slowly.

Before you rush to put a new toilet in its old place, you need to make sure that the place to which it will be attached is suitable for this. As a rule, old toilet bowls in many apartment buildings were put on mortar, but when correcting flaws, either plumbers or those who leveled the floors were often placed wooden blocks and boards. If you remove these bars without damaging large area, it is not possible that it is better to leave them. If it is necessary to level the formed nest, it can be filled cement-sand mortar or tile adhesive.

Sample will not be superfluous

After the base is ready, the replacement of the toilet can be continued. The first thing to do is to put the toilet on the intended installation site. Assess the situation, how much everything converges, it is specifically important whether the neck coincides with the sewer in height and approximately the angle of inclination. If everything fits together, you can continue the installation.

Markup before installation

The next step is marking the position of the toilet bowl and drilling the fasteners. It would not be superfluous to note that the seat should be at least 75 cm, this is if a bidet is subsequently mounted next to the toilet, or washing machine. You should not reduce the width of the seat, later it will cause a lot of inconvenience, or rather it will be crowded.

Mark the position of the toilet as follows. Having measured the real width of the room and calculated the middle, the axis of the toilet bowl, the toilet bowl itself is placed at a distance of 10cm-15cm from the neck of the sewer pipe. This distance is necessary for the corrugation, it compensates for the possible slight difference in height between the toilet bowl neck and the sewer pipe, as well as the possible mismatch between the angle of the pipe and the neck (it is better to try on with the corrugation on). Aligning the toilet along the axis, through mounting holes located on the base with a marker on the floor, marks are made for future drilling of fasteners; for certainty, you can outline the base of the toilet bowl with a marker.

Assembly of the drain system

Having marked the drilling of the fasteners, the toilet bowl is thoroughly prepared for installation. Before screwing the toilet to the floor, it must be assembled, that is, attach a cistern to it. Having previously read the instructions for assembling the insides of the drain tank, observing the sequence of all gaskets and washers, the minced meat is assembled, after which the tank is attached to the toilet bowl.

When the toilet will stand in assembled condition equipped with a drain tank, as a test attempt, you can put the corrugation on the neck, screw the water hose in accordance with the installation instructions drain system and, inserting the corrugation into the sewer, turn on the water supply to the tank. When the tank is full, carefully inspect the junction of the tank with the toilet for water leakage. If there are no leaks, then everything moves forward with a positive result, which means that it is worth checking the operation of the drain, carefully examining the junctions of the corrugations and the toilet, as well as the sewer and corrugations for leakage. As a rule, there are no leaks during the first drains, but a check will not be superfluous.

Approximate connection and fitting

After making sure that there are no leaks, the water supply to the tank is shut off again, the water is drained from the tank, and the toilet bowl should be slightly raised and tilted back so that as much as possible more water drain and so that the corrugation is without water. Having drained the water and disconnected the corrugation, we continue to replace it. Mounting holes are drilled with a perforator or impact drill. Very often, a rubber lining is used to install the toilet, this is not necessary, silicone will replace the rubber lining.

Joint sealing

The next step is sealing the corrugation, if the corrugation is good, then sealing is not needed. Since it is difficult to find a good corrugation, the corrugation is sealed. To do this, the corrugation is wiped dry with a rag and the ribs of the gum entering the sewer are abundantly smeared with silicone, a wavy strip, not particularly sparing. A similar procedure must be repeated with the other side of the corrugation, with the one that is worn on the neck of the toilet.

After that, after hammering plastic dowels into the mounting holes, the corrugation is put on the neck of the toilet bowl, then the opposite end is inserted into the sewer along the very edge of the gum. When the corrugation is in place, a thick layer of silicone is applied around the perimeter to the outlined toilet seat.

Installation

The toilet is put in its place and screwed to the floor, thereby pressing and squeezing out the excess silicone out. When the toilet is screwed to the floor, excess silicone is removed with a wet finger, so as not to stain anything, the finger is drawn along the formed angle between the floor and the toilet.

Video - toilet replacement:

Conclusion!

After all the procedures for replacing the toilet bowl are completed, a test run and drain are performed, and a check is made for leakage. The replacement of the toilet bowl was successful, you can fully use the toilet bowl after 12 hours. Having received your first experience, the next time the question of how to change the toilet with your own hands will not be so scary.

Having understood the toilet installation technology, you can save on plumbing services and do the job as efficiently as possible. The toilet can be mounted traditional way or more modern method- with installation. In the second case, the drain tank will be hidden in the wall, which will favorably affect the interior of the room.

You are provided with instructions on how to complete each of the listed installation options.

1. Perforator.
2. Roulette.
3. Wrench.
4. Fan pipe.
5. Flexible hose.
6. FUM tape.
7. Fasteners.
8. Sealant.

In the case of installing a toilet bowl on the installation, the listed list will expand with the corresponding set. Everything you need is bought at any plumbing store.

Dismantling the old toilet

First step . Shut off the water supply and drain all the liquid.

Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.

Third step. We unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. We press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. If it doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.

Fourth step. Dismantling the toilet bowl.

Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet drain from the sewer.

In old buildings, plums are usually fixed with cement plaster. To destroy it, use a hammer and a chisel. We need to prick the cement and gently shake the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and loosen. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.

If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, you need to clean off the wax ring

Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.

Important! Sewer gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and highly flammable. Be sure to keep this in mind as you work.

Getting ready to install

The base for the installation of the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:

• if the floor is tiled and does not have level differences, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
• if the floor is tiled and not even, install the toilet with chopsticks. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, chopsticks are hammered into them according to the level, and after that the toilet bowl is attached to the chopsticks with screws;
• if a tile replacement is planned, we dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed, if the old one has level differences;
• if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, we fill in the screed and lay the tiles.

We pay attention to pipes. Sewerage from debris and various deposits, we install a tap on the water supply (if it was absent before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.

How to install a conventional toilet

As a rule, when selling, the toilet bowl and the tank are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.

First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.

Marks on the floor for fasteners

Second step. We remove the toilet bowl and drill mounting holes in the marked places.

Third step. We drive the dowels into the mounting holes.

Fourth step. Installing the bowl. We insert fasteners through special gaskets. Tighten fasteners. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fasteners or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. From above we close the fasteners with plugs.

Fifth step. We mount the cover and seat. The manual for their assembly usually comes with the toilet, so we will not dwell on this event separately.

Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how the toilet outlet is connected.

Video - Installing a Compact toilet with wall outlet

If the release is done into the wall, we work like this:

If the release to the floor is being arranged, we do the following:

Useful advice! If the toilet bowl is connected to the drain pipe using a corrugation, sealing can be abandoned in most cases, because. the design of such an adapter hose is itself able to provide a sufficiently tight fit.

Seventh step. We carry out the installation of the tank. Drain mechanisms are usually on sale in assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, reassemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (assembly order for different models may vary slightly).

We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water hole in our toilet. Install the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.

Fasteners are most conveniently installed like this:

Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it digs somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. The level of filling the tank with water is adjustable by moving the float lower or higher.

We let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we take the toilet into permanent operation.

Modern installation. A special wall installation is used, in which the mechanism of the tank is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and the drain button remain visible.

We mount a wall-mounted toilet for installation

Video - How to install a wall-mounted toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation

The first stage is the installation of the frame

We carry out installation metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable with brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. Frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet.

The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.

The second stage - we hang the tank

We perform the installation in compliance with the following recommendations:

• drain button place about a meter away from the floor;
• between the attachment points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the eyes of our toilet bowl;
• the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
• we hang the wall-mounted toilet at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
• between the drain tank and the wall we maintain no more than 15 mm distance.

The third stage - we mount the finished installation

We first check the evenness of the wall with a plumb line. When deviations are found, do the following:

The fourth stage - install the tank

First we connect the tank. The drain may have top and side outlets. Almost all modern models receptacles allow you to choose between these two options.

Important! When installing the toilet on the installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank with a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. Would you like to destroy the frame skin in the near future for the sake of a five-minute replacement of such a hose? That's it!

For connection, it is best to use plastic pipes. All necessary fasteners usually come with the tank. Separately, you have to buy only a panel for the drain buttons, and even then not always.

We connect the release of our toilet bowl with the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with a corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily turn off the toilet from the drain and remove the bowl to the side.

Important! The procedure for connecting the cistern to the toilet and plumbing may vary depending on the model of the product. We clarify these points in a separate order and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Fifth stage - we sheathe the installation

To do this, we use moisture-resistant drywall with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fix it with a double layer. First we do the following:

• we screw the pins for hanging the toilet into the frame (they are included in the kit);
• close the drain holes with plugs (also from the kit) so that they are not clogged with dust and debris;
• we make holes in drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.

We fasten the sheathing sheets to the frame with the help of special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening step at the level of 30-40 cm. The design will have small size and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between fasteners.

We tile drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.

Useful advice! Before starting to tile the box with tiles, we install a plug and a cuff in the place of the future location of the drain button. They are usually included in the kit.

Video - Installing a hanging toilet

Stage six - install the toilet

To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on the pins (we installed them in the previous stages of work). You can follow these steps in reverse order, whichever is more convenient for you. Tighten the fixing nuts.

Important! Pre-tile, which will be in contact with, must be covered with a layer silicone sealant(Instead of it, you can install a gasket).

You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.

The assembly instructions for the installation remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.

First step. Lock your knee firmly. Metal fasteners will help you with this.

Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.

Third step. Install the toilet in the place intended for it. Circle the outline of the sanitary ware and mark the holes for the fasteners.

Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the marking.

Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into fan pipe and fix the sanitary ware with bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.

Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. Installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of installation wall model toilet.

Seventh step. We bring the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet bowl. If everything is fine, we accept the product for permanent operation.

Dismantling the toilet is not the most pleasant experience. However, this procedure is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Any person can reinstall it, it is enough to know how the whole structure is attached to the floor and pipes. Particular attention should be paid to the tank. In this article we will tell you how to replace the toilet in the apartment.

Hygiene

Before work, it is important to protect yourself. After all, self-replacement of the toilet bowl can lead to various infections. For example, if there are unhealed scratches on the hands, then bacteria can get there.

During dismantling, fragments fly off from the old unit, which can injure the master.

In addition to hands, you should also protect your eyes, where infection can also easily get.

1. You must wear gloves on your hands.
2. The eyes are protected by goggles.
3. The dismantled device must be treated with an antiseptic to minimize the amount dangerous bacteria. You can use bleach or bleach.

What are the types of device

Toilet bowls can be almost new and Soviet. The difference between them lies in the nature of the attachment.

1. New products are usually mounted using plastic fasteners. When dismantling, such fasteners are cut off. The tubes in the new products are also plastic or metal-plastic, and it is easy to disconnect them.
2. Soviet products of this type are mounted directly into the floor. As a rule, the place of attachment is filled with cement. To dismantle such a unit, you have to break it. However, these devices are quite old, and you should not feel sorry for them. Using a hand tool, you can easily remove them. The pipes with which the old Soviet toilets are connected to communications are sometimes steel. These pipes will have to be unscrewed or cut down.

Preliminary work

Dismantling

Having determined the type of fastening, you can get to work.

1. With the old Soviet method of fastening, you must first rip off the bolts. They can be unscrewed or simply broken. Most often, they are no longer amenable to the influence of the tool, so it is easier to break off the heads. Then you have to break out the toilet itself. It is very firmly built into the sewer pipe, because in those days they did it for centuries. Having finished dismantling, it is necessary to clean the place of work for the installation of a new unit.
2. If the model is relatively new, then nothing will have to be broken. It is necessary to unscrew the bolts, which, most likely, have not yet rusted too much. Next, you need to disconnect plastic pipe from the sewer system.

Before installation

After the dismantling of the toilet is completed, you can proceed to prepare the site for a new unit.

1. The place must be cleaned of construction debris, fragments of old materials and dust.
2. The sewer hole must be covered. plastic bottle so nothing gets in there. The release is also closed.
3. At the place of dismantling, it is necessary to make markings for a new toilet bowl. On the floor, marks are first made for the bolts. Then holes should be drilled with a diamond drill.
4. You can mount a new product on the prepared place; for this, you should purchase a special mounting kit. The kit usually includes:

• 2 plastic dowels;
• 2 long screws;
• washers and gaskets;
• screw caps.

Choice

Choosing a toilet is a very important undertaking. After all, he will stand in place for more than one year. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the kit that best meets all the requirements.

Complex structures in the event of a breakdown, most likely, cannot be repaired on their own.

Most often, people do not consider the choice of this device a difficult matter. The list of requirements for it is limited to convenience, lightness and, sometimes, color. Beyond this, most buyers do not go. But in addition to external characteristics, each model has its own technical indicators. Leading companies in the plumbing market regularly update the lineup products, releasing more and more interesting news. Focusing only on the appearance and convenience of the toilet, you can soon encounter problems that will not be easy to solve. Before you make a replacement, you need to think about some characteristics.

1. When choosing a device, you must consider the size of the bathroom or toilet. For large spacious rooms, it is recommended to purchase designs with a bidet and a tank. If the dimensions of the bathroom are very small, then you can organically fit a toilet without a tank into the space. Such models have a special built-in flush system. They are very convenient and will save space in the room.
2. The material of manufacture of the unit is very important. By purchasing cheap products, the consumer runs the risk of getting low-quality ceramics, which will very soon spoil all the pleasure of buying. Of all the proposals for the home, it is better to choose models made of porcelain and faience in the middle price segment.
3. Of great importance internal form bowls. Some of the models have a special splash guard.
4. Design flushing device is also important. It is selected taking into account the features of the communication system in the house. There are three types of such structures: vertical, oblique and horizontal. To do right choice, you need to look at the features of the flush device in your system.
5. Today there are many models drain cisterns. It is necessary to take into account the noise level of the tank, its capacity and other indicators. You should also pay attention to the location of the tank relative to the toilet itself.