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In spring and summer - the most right time for propagation of climbing roses. Climbing roses are not propagated by seeds, because the grown plant will no longer repeat parental characteristics. Both the color and all the advantages of your favorite variety can be lost when propagated by seeds. Therefore, in order to be guaranteed to get a sample that exactly repeats the bush you like, the climbing rose is propagated vegetatively - by layering, cuttings and grafting.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

Climbing roses are easy to propagate by layering. However, this method does not work a large number of seedlings. Climbing roses are propagated by layering in the spring.

To propagate a climbing rose by layering, you need to mark one or more shoots on your rose. Depending on how much free space there is a rose around, pick up a shoot of the appropriate length - 1 m will be quite enough, but more is possible. I advise you to start with a shoot 1-1.5 m long.

On the selected shoot, it is necessary to make shallow, barely noticeable cuts above the buds, and put these shoots into grooves of the same length as the shoot, and a depth of 7-10 cm. Next, we simply pin the shoot with any corners and sprinkle the groove with soil, leaving only the top of the shoot on the surface.

Throughout the summer, try to keep the soil in this area moist. For the next season, simply cut off the shoot and divide it into parts that have roots - here you have individual seedlings.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

It is more difficult to propagate a climbing rose with cuttings, but you can get more seedlings. Doing so better in summer, in mid-June, when the cuttings are quite soft. The amount of work and costs will depend on how many seedlings are needed.
For example, to get 10 climbing rose seedlings, you will need:
– 10 plastic cups 0.5 l;
– 10 plastic containers volume 1 l;
- OK. 5 kg of soil and river sand.
The cups are filled with a mixture of sand and soil, and on top they are covered with liter containers turned upside down to create the effect of a "greenhouse".

To grow seedlings for sale, when you want to get hundreds of new young plants, you will need a separate greenhouse. On average, per 1 sq. m decreases approx. 100 cuttings. The soil in the greenhouse for growing cuttings is prepared as follows: the surface is covered with soil, a layer of expanded clay of 2 cm is laid in the base, then a nutrient layer of 6 cm from equal parts of peat, sand and humus and a layer of sand 3 cm thick on top. When growing, the cuttings are covered with a film .

Cuttings do not need to be cut large, two internodes are enough. Next, the stalk should be stripped of leaves, leaving only a couple at the top and placed in nutrient soil (in a glass or in a greenhouse) and watered. When propagating climbing roses with cuttings, it is important to remember that the soil (even in a greenhouse, even in cups) should always be slightly moist.

Usually in mid-September, cuttings form good roots and they can be planted either on permanent place, or on a bed with loose and nutritious soil to grow another season, and then transplant.

Reproduction of climbing roses by grafting

This is one of the most complex and time-consuming propagation methods, which allows you to get a large number of seedlings. Grafting is carried out with a kidney, which is cut from a cultivated rose and grafted onto a stock (rosehip seedling), stepping back from the base of 5-6 centimeters. To propagate the rose in this way is advised by the method of summer vaccination - budding.

The easiest way to graft is in a T-shaped incision. On a rosehip seedling sharp knife we make an incision in the form of the letter T, cut off the bud from the rose and insert it into the incision, after which we isolate it with a film for budding (it is commercially available).

When caring for a grafted cutting, some advise spudding a wild rose above the grafting site, but I never do this and I don’t understand why this is necessary. I just watch how the kidney develops. A month after vaccination, I weaken the film by cutting off the knot, and in the spring I remove it completely. Then I wait another week and cut off the rosehip shoot above the growth from the kidney.

There are many ways to propagate a climbing rose. Some of them are quite traditional, others are original and innovative. Each of these methods includes its own nuances, following which you can get your own rose garden by next year.

Ways to propagate climbing roses

Climbing roses, like many other crops, can be propagated by seed. However, gardeners - holders of these beautiful flowers, most often choose vegetative propagation. This is the most efficient and effective method increase the number of roses in your area. The basis of this method is the ability of climbing beauties to regenerate their body from one of its parts - a leaf, stem, root.

All cultivated roses are propagated vegetatively.

Plants obtained by vegetative propagation, are called own-rooted, since a leaf or offspring is planted - these parts are overgrown with their own roots, from which you can grow a new plant that has the same genes as the mother.

Roses can be propagated vegetatively in several ways:

layering;
root suckers;
cuttings;
dividing the bush.

In addition, a new rose bush can be obtained by grafting (growing) an eye (bud) of a varietal rose onto a healthy wild rose hip bush. This method is called "budding". Grafted roses grow faster than native roses, but they are more labor intensive to care for. Roses grown on "their" roots have high vitality - they are more hardy and winter-hardy.

It is easiest for an ordinary gardener to propagate roses by offspring, layering or cuttings. These are the least time-consuming and more efficient ways. However, it should be borne in mind that not all varieties of this flower can be propagated by cuttings. And flowering from new plants can be achieved only after a couple of years. Budding technique is a little more complicated than previous breeding methods and requires additional skills from the gardener. In addition, there is a need to produce healthy, well-developed rootstocks.

Each method has its pros and cons. Which one to use for you will help the analysis of each method in more detail.

Terms of procedures for the propagation of climbing roses

Each breeding method has its own timing. So green cuttings are usually carried out from the end of June to the third decade of July. If the cuttings are planted later than July 15, they will not have time to germinate before winter, and will die. If the cuttings were harvested in the fall, then they are planted in the ground in March-April, but only in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Some flower growers manage to plant cuttings even in September. But with this method, it is important to securely cover the plantings for the winter or move them home until spring.

It is recommended to vaccinate in spring and summer - this is due to the beginning of sap flow (roses have intense juice twice during the warm season: April-May and July-August). It is customary to carry out budding at such times due to the fact that during sap flow the bark is easily separated from the cambium, which means that the stock will be easier to prepare. Moreover, it was at this time that pink plant all life processes are faster, and therefore the fusion will occur in a short time.

Experienced gardeners manage to bud in winter. For getting positive result the scion and stock should be prepared in advance: the rootstocks are dug up in the fall and stored in a cold place, and the scions are cut in advance. Table grafting allows you to more accurately connect the scion to the root neck of the stock.

Layers for rooting are selected and added dropwise in the ground at the end of March, as soon as the snow completely melts and the vegetation process begins soon. From layering, a new plant is obtained by mid-autumn. At the same time, offspring are rooted. The division of the bush is carried out in early spring planting the separated parts of the plant immediately in open ground. By autumn, they will already be rooted enough to next year bloom successfully.

seed propagation

The most time-consuming and time-consuming way in the process is to get an adult flowering plant it will take many years. Most often seed propagation used by breeders or amateur rose growers who want to get a new unique variety or grow rootstock for roses. For propagation of roses in a similar way, seeds collected by oneself or bought in a store are suitable.

Note!

From seeds it is impossible to obtain a plant similar in genotype to the mother. Neither the color of the flowers, nor the form, nor the productivity in the new plant will be repeated.

Seeds are harvested when the fruits begin to turn red - seeds from these fruits will sprout better. Sowing is carried out in the second decade of April in a common seedling box. Before the sowing procedure, the seeds are disinfected with hydrogen peroxide. Rose seeds take a very long time to germinate. You can improve their germination by creating stress for them: first, you need to keep the material in a humid environment for a couple of days. high temperature and then place them in the refrigerator for another 1-2 days. Refrigeration will help activate the seeds. Seedlings germinate in 1.5-2 months. In early summer, seedlings are planted in open ground. When transplanting, minerals and a fungicide against root rot are added to the hole. Plantings are regularly sprayed with a disinfectant solution so that by autumn the seedlings can successfully grow a strong, and most importantly, healthy root system.

The germination of rose seeds is very low, so a very large amount of seed will have to be sown.

If by autumn the young bushes are not strong enough, then for the winter they can be transplanted into pots and withstand the cold months at home on the windowsill or cellar, and planted in the flower garden in the spring. In the second year after sowing the seeds, a flowering plant can be obtained.

cuttings

It is believed that climbing roses, like no other, are suitable for propagation by cuttings. This method has a lot of advantages: there is always a large amount of planting material at hand, practically no costs are required, and a new varietal plant is obtained in a short time.

It has been observed that varieties with dark petals take root best of all. But light roses grow roots much longer and harder.

Procurement of cuttings

Cuttings are harvested from a one-year-old shoot. From the branch, the middle region is chosen, the thickness of the handle should be at least 5 millimeters. Semi-lignified cuttings are best rooted, which are cut from the plant after it enters the budding phase. After pruning, each branch should contain a minimum of 2 buds and a maximum of two leaves. In this case, all the spikes are cut off. The upper cut is made 2 centimeters above the kidney, the lower one is immediately below the lowest located kidney.

The lower end is soaked in a growth stimulator (Kornevin or Heteroauxin preparations) and planted in a soil substrate at an angle of 45 degrees.

A too lignified or green shoot increases the engraftment time, since the roots on it will develop very slowly. Therefore, it is not recommended to make cuttings from such stems.

Planting cuttings

Landing is carried out in an impromptu greenhouse - a recess in the ground in the quietest and most sunny place in the garden. The greenhouse is prepared in advance, the bottom is covered with manure and covered with a film to create an optimal climate. Then the shelter is removed, and the manure layer is covered with soddy soil and cleaned sand (peat can be used). During the procedure for planting cuttings, the soil must be well moistened.

Seedlings are deepened by 1.5-2 centimeters, maintaining a distance between processes of 5-6 centimeters. The first 12-14 days, the cuttings are under the film, which all this time must be regularly removed for ventilation. In order to maintain a humidity of 80-90% inside, the cuttings are constantly sprayed warm water. They also wet the ground.

Closer to the month, the cuttings will take root, the buds will begin to develop. As soon as the kidneys turn green and swell, the film is removed.

Cuttings planted in spring may bloom this summer. However, the mission of the gardener is to grow a strong productive plant. Therefore, all buds will need to be removed. Only next summer, rooted cuttings will turn into young pink bushes. And only then they can be transplanted into the rose garden to adult plants.

Woody rose cuttings

Such cuttings are cut at the end of autumn when pruning roses. Some gardeners keep twigs until spring, while others prefer to plant cuttings in the fall. Still others root future roses in pots or jars at home.

Methods for rooting cuttings:

Bouquet cuttings. The strongest are selected from the cut flowers. They are cut into cuttings 12-15 centimeters long. Each cutting should have 2-3 buds.

Attention!

The cutting is cut from the middle of the stem. The top of the branch for cuttings is not suitable!

The lower cut is made at an angle, the upper one is straight. The lower part is covered with brilliant green, soaked in a growth stimulator, and then planted in loose soil consisting of turf and sand. Cuttings can be planted immediately in separate cups and covered with the same glass on top to create a greenhouse effect. The disadvantage of this method of reproduction is the low percentage of rooting of cuttings.

Up to three cuttings can be placed under one jar.

Caring for such plantings is quite simple: you need to regularly moisten the ground, loosen the soil around the cans. In a month, the cuttings will start up the first leaves. Seedlings are left in this state until spring. For the winter, they will need to be covered with a thick layer of foliage or sawdust. In the spring, banks can be removed as soon as it is established warm weather.

Rooting in the package. If there are few cuttings (10-15 pieces), then they can be germinated in the usual plastic bag. To do this, moss, peat (moistened with aloe solution), or earth with sand are poured into the bottom of the bag and the twigs soaked in the growth solution are stuck into the substrate. The bag is filled with air and closed, hung in a sunny place. A week later, a callus will appear at the branches, and after another 14 days, roots will appear. It is permissible to open the package only a month after planting the branches - all the previous time the cuttings do not bother. Those plants that have taken root best of all are transplanted into pots and covered with a film. Underdeveloped seedlings are again placed in a bag for "ripening". Well-grown bushes are transplanted into a flower garden only the next year.
Rooting in water. Cut cuttings can be placed in water (lower part), and covered with a film on top. It should not be removed until rooting occurs.
Cuttings in potatoes. You can even root a rose using an ordinary potato. For this method, young tubers are selected without signs of disease and lesions, all eyes are cut out of them. A small hole is made in the potato and a rose stalk is stuck in. The potatoes themselves are placed in a small earthen hole covered with sand. Potatoes are an ideal environment for the formation of roots on a young twig, since the root crop contains all the necessary nutrients for this. nutrients.

Note!

Such rooting is carried out in the spring, when the weather is comfortable for the germination of flowers.

The division of the bush

If for some reason a climbing rose needs to be transplanted to another place, then there is a great chance to get several new plants from one shrub at once. For propagation of roses by dividing the bush, adult shrubs are suitable with strongly developed powerful roots. The bush is divided into several parts so that each part has a piece of a common root system and 2-3 shoots with buds. Shoots and roots are cut by a third. Before planting, the roots are dipped in a clay-dung mash. If there is no confidence in the viability of the roots, then they can be soaked in a growth stimulator. From the newly planted bushes, in two or three years, a new climbing plant will develop, pleasing lush bloom all summer.

layering

The climbing rose, thanks to its long flexible shoots, can be easily propagated by layering. Roses are propagated in the spring, when the earth warms up well, and by this time the bushes will be treated for pests and diseases and cut off. For diversion, a reviving shoot of one year old is chosen. It is placed in a shallow groove, in the ground, well fertilized with compost or humus. The whip is laid horizontally for its entire length so that the end remains above the ground. To prevent the whip from “jumping out”, it is pinned with garden staples. The end is tied to a small peg - so it will stretch up, and not grow into the ground.

Attention!

Only one lash can be removed from one bush. If you take a few, kut will weaken and may get sick.

During the warm season, the layering has time to take root. To make this happen faster, before instillation, you can cut the bark near the kidneys. The land in which the lash sprouts should be in a semi-moist state, so it is important to water it regularly, carry out light loosening, and get rid of the weed. For best result the soil can be shed with liquid fertilizer. At the end of summer, the lash will sprout, many new sprouts will appear - this will mean that a new root system has formed and developed sufficiently inside.

The "ripe" layering is separated from the mother bush and planted in a new place in September. Although many experts advise to leave new roots on the parent plant until spring - this way new seedlings will have more strength to survive cold winter. In the spring, after the snow melts, a young bush is transplanted for permanent residence. Already in the first year, a climbing rose can bloom. However, it is better to overcome the desire to see blossoming flowers, and let the plant gain strength in current year and grow up. To do this, the buds will have to be cut off. Do not be upset - the next year the rose obtained from the layering will bloom in full force.

From one whip you can get several new plants at once. Lay the shoot into the ground in waves: one bud above the surface, one underground.

Budding

Vaccination - effective way propagate a varietal whimsical plant with the help of a more hardy, winter-hardy relative - an ordinary dog rose. It is on him that the eyes of those varietal roses are grafted, which for some reason grow poorly or bloom little. Thus, you can get a unique variety that will bloom magnificently even in unusual conditions.

At first, it seems that budding, that is, planting part of one plant onto another, is only possible for experienced gardeners. In fact, this method of reproduction in execution is quite simple, and even a beginner rose grower can master it. The essence of grafting is that the apical part of one plant (scion) is planted on the root system of another (rootstock). First you need to prepare the scion and stock.

Rootstock preparation:

for grafting, choose a stock that is at least three years old;
12-14 days before the procedure, the main bush is spudded to a height of 20-25 centimeters with moist earth. This is necessary in order to form a stronger root system;
on the eve of grafting, the bush is generously watered with warm water;
before the procedure, the plant is loosened until the root collar is exposed. The base is washed and dried. It is in this place that the vaccination will be carried out.

Scion preparation:

the bush from which the stock is taken is well watered the day before the cutting is cut;
on the day of budding, a cutting 10 centimeters long and at least 5 millimeters thick is cut;
the largest peephole is selected from the cut shoot, it is taken out together with a piece of wood with a knife.

Budding technique: a cut is made at the base of the stock T-shape. A sleeping eye (shield), cut earlier from a prepared cutting, is inserted into it. The edges of the incision are pressed tightly, wrapped with electrical tape, leaving the eye on the outside. The scion will grow by feeding on the roots of the rootstock. The next year, a strong healthy shoot will grow from the eye.

Note!

Plant roses in cloudy cool weather. The stock must be dry during budding, otherwise the cut site is quickly affected by the disease.

Remove the bandage in early spring. At the rootstock, all wild shoots are cut out, sanitary pruning is carried out. As soon as the grafted shoot has 4-5 leaves, it is pinched (like all other shoots), stimulating the awakening of the buds and the growth of the plant.

Reproduction offspring

The easiest way to propagate, for which only own-rooted roses are suitable, since flowers grafted onto wild rose will not produce a varietal plant. From them you can get only the same wild rosehip.

Offspring - a set of upright shoots that grow annually around the base of the plant. Most of them are formed on south side bush. From them, you can grow independent roses that have the same characteristics as the mother plant.

In the first year of appearance, the shoots do not yet have their own root system, so they can only be planted from the second year. The strongest, well-developing offspring are suitable for separation, others are immediately removed so that they do not expend energy mother plant.

Transplantation of young shoots is carried out when they are guaranteed to acquire their roots and be able to fully grow without parental nutrition. The offspring are separated as close as possible to the mother plant. The shoot is cut out along with part of the maternal roots. The seedling is transferred to a new place of residence. Planted in fertilized, loose, moist soil. Before planting, they are cut off by a third - such a manipulation will stimulate the young bush for rapid development.

Conclusion

This is the essence of all the main methods of propagation of roses. Most of them do not require special knowledge and skills; even a novice florist can successfully increase the number of climbing bushes.

As a green decoration personal plot curly or climbing roses have proven themselves well. With the help of them, arches, arbors, fences, walls are decorated, one has only to direct the growth of the plant in the right direction. This article talks about how to plant a climbing rose, care for it and prepare the beauty for winter.

There are the following types of climbing roses:

Rambler,
climber,
climbing.

Climbing rose rambler variety "Bobby James"

For climbing roses of the Rambler group long wattles from 1.5 to 5 m with sufficient flexibility, which spread along the ground or rise, forming an arc shape. succulent stems Green colour studded with hook-shaped spikes. The flowers are small with a diameter of 2 to 2.5 cm with a mild aroma, collected in inflorescences. The flowering time is in the first half of summer. During the month, many buds bloom. Shoots that have successfully overwintered are completely covered with flowers. The leathery shiny leaves are small in size. The main group of varieties belonging to this species, steadily endures winter under cover.

Climbing rose climbing cultivar City of York

Shoots of climbing Climber varieties are up to 4 meters long. Small inflorescences form profusely blooming and enough big flowers with a diameter of 4 cm. The main varieties of this type of roses bloom again. They are able to tolerate winter conditions.

Climbing varieties have large (up to 11 cm) flowers solitary or united in small inflorescences. We have these large-flowered varieties only suitable for growing southern regions, where there is no harsh winters. In the European part of Russia, there is a high probability of them getting stem cancer.

Where to plant

In the photo, a climbing rose variety "Polka"

to plant climbing roses preferably in groups, without mixing with other colors. The landing site should be well lit and ventilated, so grow garden beauty better on the south side of the site in light shade. Prolonged exposure to direct sun rays adversely affects tender plant, petals and leaves may dry out. It is not recommended to plant a climbing rose on the corners of objects where there are often drafts that she does not like.

It is also worth making sure that there is no high occurrence in the selected area. ground water. The root, as it develops, can reach a depth of two meters and a meeting with a water source will adversely affect the plant as a whole. This can be avoided by placing a flat boulder on the bottom of a 1 m deep hole prepared for planting. When the powerful rose root reaches the stone barrier, its growth will change direction and continue to the sides.

If you choose the right landing site, the "queen" will thank you with lush bright flowering.

Landing time

The type of seedlings determines the time for soil transfer.

Planting climbing roses in autumn (mid-September to mid-October) is usually used for climbing roses with open roots.

The vaccinated are planted in the spring (in the last days of April and early May). Transplanting seedlings from containers can be started in spring and carried out until autumn.

Soil selection

You have to be very careful with the choice of soil. Suitable loams and fertile soils with good moisture and water permeability.

Landing

Planting a climbing rose against a wall

When planting, it is desirable to maintain a distance of at least 35-40 cm from the landscaping object.

For planting a climbing rose bush, a lot of space is not required. Before you plant a climbing rose, you need to prepare a recess. Its size 50x50x100 cm will be enough. The distance between the pits should be from 1 to 2 meters, between the rows - 1-1.5 meters. A dry hole is watered a day before planting and manure is applied in an amount of at least half a bucket into each recess.

Each seedling is inspected before planting. Remove damaged areas of the rhizome. Sections are disinfected with charcoal.

At autumn planting the bushes are cut to 20-30 cm. The cut zones are treated with garden pitch.

Video "Planting a climbing rose"

climbing rose care

Growing roses require proper care after planting:

Produce moderate watering 3-4 times a month. The plant will survive the drought well enough, but it will not respond well to excess moisture.
It is necessary to regularly loosen the root zone. After winter, the frozen ground is loosened to a depth of 25 cm using a pitchfork or a cultivator. A plant that was sick last season is harrowed with a rotation of the soil so that wintering pests do not remain in the soil.
In the spring, mulch the soil to enrich it with nutrients. The composition of the mulch may include: humus, compost or humus.
Fertilize the crop is not required within a year after planting. Then, after the bushes have faded, the soil should be fertilized with a composition of potassium salts. Also suitable and infusion of wood ash. next spring in phase active growth plants need to be fed at least 5 times. You can use manure, any organic top dressing or mineral composition, or combine them.

Wintering

It is necessary to prepare the garden beauty for the onset of cold weather in advance. By the end of summer, the number of watering and loosening is reduced. Fertilizers containing nitrogen are excluded. In September, the rose wattles are removed from their supports so that they adapt to the horizontal orientation. Cut off damaged shoots, free them from foliage. After that, they are treated with a three percent solution of iron sulfate.

When it gets colder to -5ºC and the plant hardens, it can be covered. This day should be dry weather. The stems are tied with twine and fixed with metal hooks to the ground. Dry foliage is laid under the shoots. The plant is then covered suitable material: roofing material, spruce branches, wooden box etc.

For a group of roses, it will be better if you "wrap" them together, creating a common crate for them. Thus, the volume of dry air under the "winter shelter" increases, which helps the bushes to winter comfortably.

In April, “clothes” from climbing roses are not removed all at once, since the plant must first be allowed to get used to sunlight. The soil around the roses is loosened, fresh earth or humus is added. After drying, the plant is examined, the affected stems are cut off, slightly capturing a healthy area, they are treated with a 15% solution blue vitriol. Then in horizontal position fasten the stems to the support. This placement prevents the formation of a large number of replacement shoots and promotes uniform flowering of the main stem. If you carry out a vertical garter with wattle, many vegetative shoots will appear, and only the upper parts of the stems will bloom.

Video "Shelter for the winter of a climbing rose"

pruning

A year after planting, the plant can be cut, giving it the desired configuration. The variety of roses determines the pruning method.

In roses that bloom once, the buds are formed on the main last year's stems. These shoots will no longer bloom next summer. Buds will bloom on replacement shoots. Thus, after the main shoots fade, they are cut off, and the replacement ones are left.
On the main shoots of roses, with repeated flowering, buds form within three to four years. These stems are to be cut in the fourth year. If a rose has launched a large number of replacement young shoots over the summer, then the main stems can be cut earlier.

reproduction

A climbing rose can be propagated by cuttings and layering.

The propagation procedure by cuttings includes the following steps:

Choose a suitable stem. For cuttings, a green flowering stem is used, on which there are 2-3 internodes and at least 4 buds. An overwintered stem with dormant buds is also suitable.
Cut the cutting at 45 degrees, capturing the kidney. The distance from the kidney to the end of the cutting should be large enough.
The leaves are removed from the bottom, in the center and at the top - they are cut.
Plant a cutting 1 cm into a container with a mixture of earth and sand.
Cover with a glass cap or polyethylene film. Provide regular watering and loosening. Airing the seedling is not required.

Reproduction of roses by layering is carried out in the spring.

A strong stem is chosen and pressed against the soil, securing and sprinkling a section of the trunk with earth. After a year, the young seedling is separated from the mother plant, planted independently.

Diseases and pests

Climbing roses are prone to the following diseases:

powdery mildew.

Cause: heatwave.

signs: whitish spots that increase the area of \u200b\u200bspread, the rose stops growing and blooming.

Treatment: twice the culture is treated with Bordeaux liquid.

bark cancer.

Cause: hypothermia.

signs: small dark brown spots form on the stems. Gradually they turn black, the shoot becomes completely amazed.

Treatment: diseased areas are removed and burned.

Prevention: from time to time the bush is covered with polyethylene and do not apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers in the fall.

Even minor negative changes in the appearance of the bushes should alert you. Most likely, they got aphids or spider mite. The first thing to do is to carefully check the bush. With a slight spread of insects, the plant is treated twice with a chilled nettle broth or horsetail. It was not possible to get rid of pests, then we resort to insecticides.

In order for the queen of the garden not to be attacked by leaf-eating caterpillars in May, it is necessary to spray it with an intexicide, for example, FITOVERM, FUFANON. This must be done very carefully. When spraying, it is important not to touch nearby fruit trees and shrubs. For the duration of the procedure, it is better to protect them by first covering them with a strong plastic wrap.

So, in order for climbing roses to bloom actively, and every year they fascinate with their unsurpassed charm, it is necessary to provide these capricious beauties with thorough care.

Cuttings are considered the most effective method breeding roses, as in this case it is possible to maintain the purity of the variety and create healthy and strong young bushes. Propagation of roses by cuttings in the spring at home is a proven way to obtain high-quality planting material.

This article will describe how to propagate roses from cuttings in the spring. Guided by the recommendations from the article, you can cut, prepare and root the cuttings yourself, growing a healthy bush.

Propagation of roses by cuttings in spring at home

Propagation of roses by cuttings in the spring at home begins with the preparation of planting material. To do this, cut the stems in the morning or evening, which will be used as seedlings.

Note: It is desirable that the cuttings be half-lignified, since they are the ones that take root the fastest. You can determine the maturity of the stem by the thorns: if they break off easily, the stem is suitable for cuttings. The selected stems are cut with a sharp knife into cuttings up to 15 cm long. 2-3 leaves and the same number of buds should remain on them. The lower cut should be oblique and located at some distance from the first kidney.

In order for the cuttings to take root faster, they are immersed in a solution of root or any other root former (Figure 1). In the future, the seedling is rooted, in the conditions of an apartment or directly in the garden, having prepared a nutrient substrate from a mixture of river sand and fertile soil. They are added dropwise to the wells, watered with potassium permanganate, at an angle of 45 degrees. After that, the bed needs to be watered, and cover each cutting with a jar. When new shoots begin to appear from the buds, the seedlings begin to gradually harden off, removing the shelter daily for several hours.

Figure 1. Stages of propagation by cuttings

By autumn, the length of young shoots will reach 30-40 cm, but all formed buds must be removed so that the plant spends energy on the formation of the root system, and not on flowering. In autumn, young bushes are dug up and stored in a cool cellar along with a clod of earth until next spring and the moment of transplanting to a permanent place.

Reproduction features

Roses can be propagated vegetatively or by seed. The latter method is used for growing wild rose and for breeding new varieties. Garden species can only be propagated vegetatively, as the seeds do not convey the economic and decorative value of flowers. Vegetatively propagated species are divided into those that are planted with the help of roots, and those that are grown on rootstocks.

Most often, budding with an eye and grafting cuttings are used to obtain new garden flowers. To do this, take rootstocks, which are obtained from different varieties wild rose. As a rule, canina and dog roses are used as rootstock, which are characterized by high winter hardiness, disease resistance, strong root system and compatibility with most varieties.

Propagation in the spring with green cuttings

This is the easiest way and does not require high costs labor and time. It is not necessary to grow a stock separately, but at the same time you can quickly get a full-fledged root culture.

Note: Not all varieties develop well on their roots. For example, parks and remontant varieties practically do not take root, in tea and hybrid tea varieties the degree of survival is average, and ground cover, climbing, polyanthus and climbing can be grown using green cuttings.

It is better to propagate flowers in this way in open ground in June-July, and in a greenhouse - in March and April. For cuttings, take the middle parts of annual shoots that are in the bud formation phase. Grass and fat cannot be taken, as they do not have sufficient strength.

Green cuttings do so(picture 2):

cut into right amount seedlings 5-8 cm long. The lower cut should be inclined and located directly under the kidney;
The upper cut is made straight and is half a centimeter above the eye;
The bottom sheet is removed, and the upper ones are plucked in half. This helps prevent moisture loss;
Finished cuttings are placed in a container with water and stored there until planting.

Figure 2. The process of green cuttings

It is allowed to use growth substances, which not only accelerate the growth of roots, but also strengthen the sprout itself.

For rooting, the cuttings are moved to boxes, racks or to special beds with a film cover. Planted in a light earthen mixture of sand, turf and sheet soil. The earth must be disinfected with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and the stems are placed at a slight slope. After that, regular watering and light shading are provided.

Note: The best conditions for rooting, almost 100% humidity, diffused natural light and a temperature of + 22-25 degrees are considered.

Do not allow sudden temperature fluctuations in the rooting room. Besides, important role humidity plays. To maintain it, use a special installation or spraying. The leaves must be kept moist all the time, so in hot weather they are sprayed up to 5 times a day.

When a callus forms on the roots, after two to three weeks the final rooting occurs and the number of sprays is reduced. Landing in open ground is carried out in May.

The easiest way to propagate by green cuttings is miniature varieties that retain all their main characteristics. You can breed such flowers even in a city apartment.

Propagation of roses in spring with lignified cuttings

In autumn, when the bushes are covered for the winter, lignified cuttings are selected, suitable for further propagation. Leaves are removed from the shoots and stored all winter in moistened moss in a cool room. In the spring, cuttings of 10-15 cm in length are cut from them.

Figure 3. The order of reproduction by lignified cuttings

In April and May, they are planted in open ground so that only the upper bud protrudes above the soil surface. In order for the plants to take root better, they make a shelter from the film above them. The land needs to be watered regularly. The order of propagation by cuttings is shown in Figure 3.

As a rule, at the beginning of summer, part of the cuttings releases roots, and by autumn all seedlings are completely rooted.

Propagation of roses by cuttings in spring: video

The technology of propagation of roses by cuttings in the spring at home is shown in the video. Using the advice of its author, you can easily cut and root cuttings with your own hands.

Propagation of roses by cuttings in autumn in the ground

To grow a stock, you need to collect rose hips at the end of summer, when they turn brown. The pulp should be soft, then the seeds will be easily separated from it. The seeds are washed and, without letting them dry, are mixed with wet peat or sand (Figure 4).

Note: Since sowing is not carried out immediately, the seeds are stored moist in a room with a temperature of 1-3 degrees. The storage period is two or eight months. This period is called stratification.

After that, they start landing. If stratification lasted two months, landing is carried out in October, and with eight months - in April. After planting, the bed is covered with a layer of mulch.

Figure 4. Preparation of rosehip seeds for growing rootstocks

When the first shoots appear, they are thinned out and swooped down. To increase resistance to fungal diseases, crops are sprayed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and during cultivation they are fed three times first with urea (2-3 weeks after picking), then with liquid cow dung with the addition of superphosphate (one month after the first batch of fertilizers was applied), and then with mineral fertilizers in July. It is also necessary to carry out preventive spraying with Bordeaux liquid and karbofos against fungal diseases and aphids.

In autumn, annual seedlings are dug up and sorted, selecting shoots with a straight central root and well-branched lateral roots. top plants are cut to 10 cm, and the roots are reduced to 20 cm.

Suitable seedlings are planted on a separate bed with organic fertilizers, spud and cover spruce paws for the winter. In the second year, care remains the same. After budding in July, the most strong plants, whose root collar diameter exceeds 7.5 mm. It is these seedlings that are suitable for further grafting. They are dug in the basement and stored until the moment of use.

Ways

In regions with a temperate climate, budding is carried out from late July to mid-August. A few weeks before the procedure, the rootstocks are watered and spud. This makes it easier to remove the bark and improve the survival rate of the eyes.

Shanks for budding are prepared immediately before the procedure. To do this, choose the middle part of the branch with several well-developed buds. Leaves and thorns must be removed from it, leaving only the buds and petioles.

For proper budding, do the following(the order of budding is shown in Figure 5):

The stock is unraveled and wiped with a clean rag;
Make a T-shaped cut on it with a sharp knife, which will leave smooth cut edges;
A kidney with a small piece of wood is cut out of the shoot and placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
With a knife, the edges of the incision are pushed apart and the cut and processed kidney is carefully inserted there;
The shield with the eye is pressed tightly and tied special tape or a piece of plastic wrap.

Sometimes budding is carried out immediately from two sides. This increases the chances of obtaining a quality oculant. The plant is again spudded with moist soil and left for two weeks. After that, an inspection is carried out. If the budding was carried out correctly and the kidney has taken root, it will be green, increase in size, and the petiole will fall off.

If the oculants are left for the winter, they must be covered with sand or pine needles, and a dry shelter is installed on top. Shelter is removed in late April or early May, when warm weather sets in. Rootstocks are unraveled and cut off half a centimeter above the grafting site, the bandage is removed from the kidney and spud again. In a few weeks, the eyes will sprout. When 3-4 leaves appear on them, the sprout is pinched to further form beautiful bush seedling.

Figure 5. Procedure for budding

Sometimes buds appear during the growth period. They must be removed so that the plant does not waste juices on flowering. Additionally, 2-3 top dressings are carried out with liquid cow manure with superphosphate, the plant is regularly loosened and watered, and also sprayed to prevent diseases.

To get a full-fledged seedling faster, budding is best done not with a sleeping, but with a sprouting eye. The procedure can be done in winter in greenhouses or in May in open ground.

The division of the bush, reproduction by offspring and layering are rarely used, since in the end they allow you to get little planting material.

For example, dividing a bush is an easy way to increase planting in a garden, but this method can only be applied to varieties growing on their own roots, and not to plants grown from rootstocks. It is the division of the bush that is used to obtain park views. To do this, in early spring or autumn, the bush is dug up and divided into several new ones so that each has a full-fledged root system.

Note: Reproduction by dividing the bush is used for easily growing varieties, most often for decorative wild rose and its hybrids.

When propagated by offspring, they are cut off along with part of the root of the mother bush and the aerial part of the offspring is shortened by half. The procedure is carried out in spring or autumn.

The method of reproduction by layering is especially effective in breeding ground cover and climbing varieties. Offspring (annual shoots) are laid out in special shallow grooves and sprinkled with a loose earthen mixture. To stimulate the formation of roots, cuts are made in several places. In autumn, layering is dug up and divided into separate bushes with roots. It is better to transplant them into beds for another year for growing, but you can immediately transfer them to open ground if the layers were stored in wet sand all winter. All these methods are shown in Figure 6.

You will learn more information on reproduction by layering from the video.

Standard roses grow much more slowly than bush roses, since it takes three years to grow one one and a half meter rootstock. There are several reasons for this:

It is necessary to carefully select vigorous forms of wild rose. Most often, a strong one-year-old shoot sprouted from a dormant bud is used for this.
To stimulate growth, all last year's renewal shoots are cut out.
Only in this case, after about three years, seedlings of the desired length grow, suitable for further reproduction.

Figure 6. Other breeding methods: 1 - dividing the bush, 2 - offspring, 3 - layering

On a suitable bush, one strong shoot is selected, and the rest are cut off at the level of the root collar. Two kidneys are placed on both sides. On high rootstocks, multi-colored species obtained by repeated grafting look especially impressive. Before the onset of winter, the stem is bent down, spudded and covered (Figure 7).

In the spring, the plant is opened and, after the swelling of the buds begins, a pruning is done above the grafting site. In the future, all spring and summer, new shoots are pinched to form a crown and wild shoots are cut out at the root level. In order for the trunk to grow strictly vertically, it is tied to a support. The author of the video will tell you the details about growing standard roses.

Requirements

For winter vaccination, seedlings with a root collar thickness of about 8 mm are selected. In autumn, they are dug up, the stem is cut, leaving 5-8 cm above the roots and added dropwise in a cool basement in wet sand or sawdust (Figure 8).

Figure 7. Recommendations for propagation of standard varieties

Cuttings are taken from greenhouse roses or harvested in advance in the fall. For storage, they are also dug in the basement.

In December, they begin to vaccinate:

The rootstock is transferred to warm room(temperature + 6-8 degrees) and placed in wet sawdust or sand;
The cuttings are transferred to a warm room 10-14 before vaccination;
After 3-4 days, the vaccination begins: a good cutting should have 3-4 quality buds. At a distance of 0.5 cm above the kidney, a straight cut is made, and an oblique one directly under the eye;
The stock is cut into a stump and a vertical longitudinal incision is made on it;
With the tip of a knife, gently bend the bark and insert the petiole into the incision with the oblique end down.

Figure 8. Winter grafting and sheltering seedlings for the winter

The seedling should be immediately wrapped with a film, and open cuts should be covered with garden pitch. All grafted plants are placed in a box or on racks filled with wet sand or sawdust. To stimulate the germination of the kidneys, moderate humidity and a temperature of 18-22 degrees are maintained in the room.

The fusion period lasts about two weeks, after which the kidneys begin to actively grow. After the appearance of sprouts, the plants are transplanted from pots or special bags and transferred to bright room. In the spring, seedlings are taken out to Fresh air and left in a shaded but warm place for acclimatization, after which they are transplanted into open ground.

How to propagate a Chinese rose at home

Under natural conditions, the Chinese rose (hibiscus) propagates by seeds. But at home, it is better to use the cutting method, which allows you to get high-quality much faster. planting material required for growing young plants (Figure 9).

Note: Hibiscus can be propagated by cuttings year-round, but it is best to do it in spring and summer when the air temperature is relatively stable.

How to propagate a Chinese rose at home with cuttings? First of all, this will require mature plant that needs pruning. It is in the process of removing excess stems and shoots that cuttings are harvested. Branches with a strong stem and several internodes are used as cuttings. All leaves are removed from the cutting.

Propagation of the variety by cuttings involves the use of growth stimulants. For this, the sections are immersed in the drug solution for several hours and immersed in clean water. room temperature to form roots. For this purpose, you can use a mixture of sand with fertile soil, but in a container with water it is much easier to control the process of root formation in order to transplant a young plant in time.

Figure 9. Reproduction Chinese rose cuttings

The formation of roots lasts 3-4 weeks, after which the cutting is transplanted into the ground and pinched so that the bush is lush.

How to propagate a climbing rose

Climbing roses, like other types of this flower, are best propagated by cuttings. They start harvesting cuttings in September, after flowering is completed. To do this, choose strong shoots up to 20 cm long, and cut them into cuttings with 3-4 buds (Figure 10).

Figure 10. Stages of propagation and cultivation of climbing roses

The lower cut should be oblique and located directly under the first kidney. The upper cut is made straight, placing it at a small distance from the upper kidney. Root cuttings can be in water and in the ground. In the first case, clean boiled water is used, in which the roots will not rot. As a rule, the roots begin to form after 3-4 weeks, after which the cutting is transplanted into a pot with loose soil, transferred to the house and cared for like a normal one. houseplant until next spring.

If rooting is carried out in the ground, the cutting is planted in a pot with a sand-soil mixture, and the soil is constantly moistened. From above, it is advisable to cover the seedling with a jar to maintain a stable temperature and humidity. As in the case of rooting in water, the formation of roots lasts up to 30 days, but it is better to transplant the seedling into the ground in the spring so that it has time to get stronger and adapt.

How to propagate indoor rose

Indoor roses, like garden varieties, are quite successfully propagated by cuttings, and the principles remain approximately the same (Figure 11).

Figure 11. Reproduction of a room rose by cuttings

Cuttings are harvested during pruning of an adult plant, choosing strong and healthy shoots with several buds and leaves. It is advisable not to leave more than 2-3 leaves on the stem, as this will lead to moisture loss.

The lower oblique cut of the cutting is immersed in a root-forming solution for several hours, after which the seedling is transferred to a moist substrate (a mixture of sand and fertile soil) or a container with boiled water at room temperature. After 3 weeks, the cutting forms a root system and can be transplanted into a pot.

Propagation of roses by cuttings in potatoes

Propagation of roses by cuttings in potatoes is an unusual, but quite simple and effective way to obtain high-quality planting material.

To root the cuttings in this way, you need to follow these rules (Figure 12):

In a well-lit area, they dig a shallow trench (no more than 15 cm) and fill it with a layer of sand by about a third;
Cuttings up to 20 cm long with several leaves are stuck into young potato tubers;
Cuttings with potatoes are laid out in a trench at a distance of 15 cm from each other and sprinkled with a layer of sand by about two-thirds.
Each cutting is covered with a jar to protect it from temperature extremes.

Figure 12. Rooting rose cuttings in potatoes and planting them in the ground

By propagating a rose in this way, you can get young bushes much faster, since young plants receive from potatoes not only the necessary moisture, but also nutrients. The seedlings are regularly watered, and after about two weeks they begin to harden, temporarily removing shelters. After another 14 days, the banks can be removed completely.

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