How to make kitchen furniture with your own hands. Useful tips. How to make a kitchen set: do-it-yourself drawing and diagram How to make a kitchen with your own hands

Succumbing to the temptation to buy ready-made kitchen set Sometimes, instead of positive emotions, we experience bitter disappointment. New furniture does not always fit in size, layout and as a result becomes inconvenient to use. Making a kitchen with your own hands, taking into account the size of the area and individual preferences, will not only save you from such troubles, but, among other things, even help save money.

Having taken up the renovation of the interior, first of all it is necessary to make a project of the future kitchen with entering into the drawings detailed plan premises.

It must accurately reflect:

• room height;
• wall width;
• dimensions of window and door openings;
• communications scheme: wiring, gas, water, heating;
• ventilation system.

Making a kitchen with your own hands and drawings

From how you plan to arrange kitchen furniture, its functionality and comfort in the process of cooking depend. The most common forms according to the method of arranging headsets are:

• linear;
• L-shaped;
• U-shaped;
• island.

On the small kitchens in order to save space, it is more appropriate to use linear and L-shaped. In spacious rooms, you can afford U-shaped and island furniture.

Regardless of which shape is more suitable for your room, do not forget to put on the drawings five main areas of the kitchen:

1. Working surface.
2. Washing.
3. Cooktop.
4. Food storage area.
5. Place to store crockery and cutlery.

A reasonable solution for small areas would be to combine several zones. For example, plan a countertop that will perform the functions of washing and working surface. Storage kitchen utensils also goes well with the work area.

When making drawings, try to mark the furniture so as not to violate the classic working triangle, the vertices of which form a sink, stove and refrigerator.

Designing a kitchen in pro100 (video)

Do-it-yourself calculations for the kitchen

We have already agreed that the drawings show communication schemes. Based on this, a place for washing is chosen next to the outlet of the water supply and drainage pipes. Maximum distance from gas stove before gas pipe should not exceed more than 2 m. It is undesirable to place the refrigerator close to the hob.

To make furniture yourself means to be able to take into account also such individual parameters as the height of the hostess, whether she is right-handed or left-handed.

Such seemingly trifles determine:

• height of horizontal surfaces;
• on which side of the sink to place the countertop;
• how to fix fittings on furniture;
• where to install sockets;
• how to arrange lights and switches.

All details and elements of the future headset should be carefully calculated and rechecked. Not only each locker is counted separately, but also each drawer and shelf. In the drawings, the cabinets are “disassembled” according to the boards, on which their dimensions are indicated.

After all the parameters and calculations are transferred to the drawings, you can start making templates for your furniture.

To make calculations and choose the optimal dimensions of individual elements of the headset will help special computer programs. With their help, you can design furniture and create a kitchen design for every taste.

Modeling kitchen furniture in 3ds Max (video)

Furniture assembly tools and necessary materials

To make furniture yourself, you need a certain set of tools.

Check if you have:

• drills;
• screwdriver;
• hammer and nails;
• pliers;
• jigsaw;
• hacksaws;
• building level;
• roulettes;
• square;
• mounting knife;
• sandpaper.

Newcomers to carpentry experienced craftsmen advise to buy or order finished facades on furniture, and already under them to build drawings for furniture. If this is your first build, it will take a lot of effort to make neat doors and drawer ends, and the result does not always match the work invested.

So, a set of materials for assembling a kitchen includes:

• doors for cabinets;
• laminated MDF for walls 16 mm thick;
• laminated fiberboard for drawer walls - 5 mm;
• Chipboard for countertop 32 mm thick;
• fittings - door handles, hinges, furniture edge, euro screws, ball guides;
• washing;
• drying;
• grids;
• shelf holders;
• euro ties.

Cutting the material according to the dimensions of the template

If you decide to make furniture yourself from start to finish, the production will begin with cutting MDF sheets according to the drawings. We do it carefully, as the work requires precision. Standard MDF panels have dimensions of 2440x1830, and for an inexperienced owner, cutting them for the first time can be quite difficult. Therefore, it makes sense to order cutting boards at the enterprise or directly in the store.

For example, let's consider how to calculate the pattern of parts of a standard kitchen cabinet. Conditional size products:

• width - 300 mm;
• height - 800 mm;
• depth - 550 mm.

The doors for the cabinet are made smaller in width and height so that when opened, it does not touch the module standing next to it and does not scratch the floor covering:

1. The width of the facade will be 296 mm - 4 mm is enough to ensure the smooth movement of the door.
2. The height of the facade will be 700 mm, so the door will be about 100 mm above the floor level.

In addition to the facade, the main details include:

• side walls- 2 pcs.;
• lid.

The back wall is made of fiberboard, so it is not among the main parts.

We subtract the thickness (32 mm) of the side walls, and we get the dimensions of the side walls - 800x550 mm, the bottom and cover - 284x550 mm. All other dimensions are calculated in the same way. furniture set.

Cutting materials is an extremely crucial moment. It must be done as accurately as possible, otherwise a few extra millimeters will spoil the entire geometry of the kitchen.

Chipboard cutting rules (video)

Assembly and installation of kitchen furniture

The cut parts must be prepared for assembly, after which you can start twisting the cabinet. Each individual module kit is labeled and placed next to the place where it is planned to be installed. So you will save yourself from the fact that the parts are mixed and mixed up.

The order of assembly of furniture is as follows:

1. Sections of parts must first be edged. First they are polished. sandpaper. Then edging tape applied to the saw cut and glued with a hot iron. The edges are cut with a mounting knife when the edge has cooled. This technique will not only provide furniture more attractive appearance, but also keep it from swelling and swelling under conditions high humidity in the kitchen. Therefore, it is recommended to cut not only the visible parts of the headset, but also those that are hidden from prying eyes.
2. The next step is marking and drilling holes for fasteners and shelf supports. Do not rush to work with a drill, otherwise an inexperienced hand can make a through hole.
3. The locker is assembled according to the principle of the box. Vertical side walls are attached to the horizontal lower surfaces. Lastly, screw on the lid.
4. Roller guides for sliding drawers are mounted on building level. They must be located strictly horizontally parallel to each other, otherwise the boxes will not fall into their designated places.
5. The legs are mounted on an inverted fully assembled locker.
6. Facades are installed last. To do this, lay the box flat on the back wall. The door is placed in the open position. It is more convenient to do it together. The part is fixed at 95 degrees and places for fasteners are marked. Then the facades are hinged to the side walls with self-tapping screws.
7. The final touch is the fastening of handles and other fittings. The assembled cabinet is immediately filled with drawers, shelves, nets.

Installation of furniture in the kitchen

Before installing the kitchen with your own hands, everything repair work indoors must be completed. The set is installed on flat floors against dry walls:

1. Start mounting the headset from the extreme module. The bottom row of cabinets is set according to the building level. The horizontal must be perfectly flat, otherwise there will be difficulties when laying the countertop. The lockers are connected to each other with euro ties.
2. The tabletop is fixed with screws to the cabinets. From above, markup is applied with a pencil for a future sink and stove. The holes for them are cut with a jigsaw.
3. Having completed the installation of the lower row of furniture, proceed to the installation of the upper one. The standard distance from the countertop or cabinet lid to the bottom edge of the top hinged modules considered 650 mm. To this value add the height of the cabinet minus 6-7 mm for the mount. The resulting figure is the mounting height of the mounting rail.
4. A universal canopy is attached to the back wall. Finished lockers hung on the wall, aligning vertically and horizontally.
5. If a hood is planned for your headset, it is attached last.

Kitchen assembly instructions (video)

Conclusion

Successful kitchen production with my own hands even a novice master can do it. The main thing is to fulfill accurate calculations, compose detailed drawing and boldly begin to implement your plans. Made with your own hands, with a soul, such furniture will serve your family faithfully for many years. It’s not for nothing that they say that if you want to do something well, do it yourself!

Each zealous owner, creating comfort in his home, strives to ensure that all the elements of the situation fit harmoniously into his interior, have maximum comfort and functionality and at the same time do not cost a fortune. A great way out is to create individual pieces of furniture yourself. This is how you can get desired option, which satisfies all the aspirations of the household and allows you to seriously save. Whereas the kitchen is where the whole family spends a large number of time, every little thing is important here and making a kitchen set with your own hands is what you need. Particularly relevant homemade furniture for a small kitchen standard options won't suit you.

Of course, for novice craftsmen, creating a home-made kitchen set is a very serious task, but quite solvable. To do this, however, you need to have minimal carpentry skills and really have a great desire.

In order to make this furniture without spending a lot of effort and nerves, and most importantly money, you will first need to create a design project and detailed drawings kitchen set. Drawings of kitchen furniture should include absolutely all sizes and take into account literally every detail.

Be sure to indicate where the stove or hob, refrigerator, sink, Dishwasher and other kitchen electronics. Firstly, the location of these items depends on communications, and secondly, when placing these elements, some rules must be taken into account. So, the refrigerator cannot stand next to the stove, there must be a cabinet between them, for an electric stove, as a rule, there is already an outlet, and the sink cannot be adjacent to either the stove or the refrigerator.

It is also necessary to take into account the dimensions of the facade elements of the headset. No matter how determined you are to do everything with your own hands, it is still preferable to order a kitchen facade. Only a real master can create a beautiful home-made furniture facade, and that's another story. We want to talk about the construction of the frame of a kitchen set with our own hands, and this, it should be noted, is perhaps the most important thing in creating multifunctional handmade kitchen furniture.

The question of how to make drawings and diagrams yourself will help to resolve modern programs that design cabinet furniture, for example PRO100.

So, the drawing of the headset has been worked out, the facades have been selected and ordered, let's proceed to the manufacture of kitchen furniture.

Necessary materials and tools

In order to assemble furniture for the kitchen with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• jigsaw (if the material is cut independently);
• screwdriver (you can’t do without it);
• drill;
• level;
• a hammer;
• roulette.

In order to make a high-quality set yourself so that do-it-yourself kitchen furniture made will become a matter of special pride, immortalized in photographs, you must at least have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhere to start. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the stages of work and what is required for this.

Do-it-yourself materials for the manufacture of kitchen furniture should correspond as much as possible to the conditions for the further operation of the headset. What do you plan to use for the furniture body:

• solid wood version - a classic of the genre;
• from chipboard - budget;
• from old furniture with proper skill, it can be practically free, not counting the cost of new fasteners and accessories.

Whatever materials you agree to take as a basis for making furniture, before starting work, be sure to study the instructions on how to make headset items from this particular material. Everywhere has its own specifics for each type of furniture.

Having decided on the material from which you will make furniture for the kitchen with your own hands, carefully approach the choice directly on the spot.

Solid wood should have a uniform, dense pattern of annual rings. Be sure to check for cracks and chips, fiber delamination. Avoid wood with knots. In the future, this material defect will affect the quality of the parts.

Wood chipboards must be even, without defects. Do not take unnecessarily thin sheets, as the frame of the furniture box will carry a sufficient load. If there protective film, then it is better to take lamination, and not a cached version. Perfect option- MDF.

Do-it-yourself kitchen furniture made of plasterboard can become great option, since moisture-resistant sheets have been made for a long time. Furniture made from this material can become a real decoration of your home. However, this material requires a wooden or other frame to which it will be attached. metallic profile and details.

Drywall

Stages of manufacturing kitchen furniture

The idea of ​​homemade furniture is very relevant in homes where the kitchen is small or has non-standard layout. If you make furniture for specific dimensions to order, it may turn out to be more expensive than its standard counterparts. In addition, when it comes to furniture for country kitchen, the temptation is great to use the details of old furniture in order to spend minimal money on the purchase of materials.

The manufacture of furniture, whether it be wood, chipboard, drywall, after the details are cut, which you could do on your own or order from specialists, contains 3 mandatory steps:

• work on the preparation of furniture parts - edge processing, impregnation with antiseptics and other protective compounds;
• direct assembly of furniture modules;
• final installation of the furniture set as a whole.

To make homemade furniture truly transform the kitchen, and you would proudly show a photo of a set made by yourself at home, look detailed video step by step reflected process to understand the specifics of each step.

Material handling

Headset installation

Assembly of modules

Measurements and project creation

Production of furniture for the kitchen is done on the basis of the project. For those who have started cutting parts without completing this item, the result will most likely be unusable. Answer yourself honestly whether you can do the drawings and diagrams with your own hands accurately and competently, taking into account all the necessary nuances.

If one of your friends has recently purchased a headset that fits into the dimensions of your apartment, do not hesitate to ask for a visit and thoroughly study all the details and take measurements on the spot. You can go to the store with ready-made headsets. Of course, you will have to withstand the increased attention of consultants, but you can study the range of drywall kitchen furniture with your own hands and it will turn out to be original and of high quality in terms of layout.

The drawing must be clear, accurately showing the location of the facade sockets and drilling. Important: 1 mm is taken as a unit of measurement - this moment is fundamental!

Also, take into account the allowances for processing the edge cut and between the parts for cut:

• edge - 2 mm;
• individual parts - 5 mm.

Take measurements in an area freed from furniture. Keep in mind that there will be an error in any house - whether the building is Soviet or more modern. For marks on a sheet of chipboard or other material, use a simple pencil. The marker can even show through decorative coating. Be sure to number the parts before assembling. Consider the location of the large household appliances- refrigerators, stoves, sinks. Don't forget pipes. Leave space between drawers and worktop not less than 650 mm.

Determine which type you will use - straight or angled. You can also make furniture for the kitchen on the basis of a ready-made drawing. You can choose an option on the Internet or order a project, for example, students of the last courses. It will be cheaper than professional work designer, but they will use quality programs to calculate the project.

After drawing up the drawing, do not forget about the cutting map. This document will help you see the location of parts on sheets of material, calculate the right amount. Leave certain reserves:

• from the edges of the sheet - 10 mm;
• propyl - 4 mm;
• in the place of the cut - if necessary.

It is important to arrange the parts in such a way as to ensure a high-quality through cut. It is better to use special programs for cutting, but you can also manually, although this is longer.

After preparing all the drawings, proceed to the calculation of parts. You can competently make kitchen furniture by creating a sketch of the module on separate A4 sheets - you need to write out everything you did, their number, parameters. Remember to consider the thickness of the material used. Moreover, if a plate or sheet can be produced different thickness, calculate the material for several options:

• to calculate parameters inner shelf subtract double the thickness of the sheet from the width of the module;
• back wall subtract 3 mm from the chipboard with your own hands from the width and height of the future module;
• for facades - the total width is divided in half, minus 3 mm.

After calculating everything you need, make a list for the order necessary materials and elements. Milling for hinges is better to order. This will save time, and buying a cutter will cost you about the same cost.

Materials and tools

Do-it-yourself material for kitchen furniture is checked for defects, “non-standard”. Decide in advance what the facades will be - buy or do it yourself. For the back walls take sheets with the smallest thickness. Medium - for shelves, vertical parts. On the countertop choose the most durable option. If you are planning drywall, then make a frame with your own hands from wood, purchase metal profiles.

Accessories needed: edge, screed, legs, drawer guides, dryers, hinges, handles, shelf holders, hooks. Fasteners - finishing nails, dowels, self-tapping screws, screws. Take care of the tools:

• circular saw (hacksaw) - used for sawing parts;
• pencil, tape measure;
• confirmations;
• screwdriver, sandpaper, hex key, primer;
• manual milling cutter for wood - used for profiling edges, excavating nests for fittings;
• drill, Forsner drill - for drilling nests for furniture hinges;
• level, laser rangefinder;
• iron (glue the edges);
• screwdriver and / or electric drill;
• jigsaw;
• electric planer / planer.

Get to work making sure you have everything you need.

Material preparation

Kitchen furniture made of wood, chipboard or drywall begins with the preparation of materials and the processing of parts. After the markup has been applied to the sheet, do not forget to outline the awnings, handles, and other fasteners. For marking, it is better to use cardboard templates. Holes are drilled immediately.

Cut out the pieces with a circular saw. Do it with inside so that the outside edge remains neat. For wood and slabs, the edge is processed first. Facing can be done with both melamine and plastic. The edge will protect the material from moisture and swelling. Use an iron. After gluing and the material has cooled, cut off the protrusions at 45 o, and then process the bend with sandpaper.

For drywall, preparation consists in marking and fixing metal guides. If it is assumed that the part will carry a significant load, additionally use a timber reinforcement.

markup

Cut out the details

Installing guides

Assembly and installation

To assemble a kitchen from wood with your own hands, fiberboard, drywall, the basics of events are based on the same principles:

• it is necessary to separate all the elements, arrange them according to the list and delimit them so that it is clear where which module is;
• if not done yet, then carry out antiseptic treatment, varnish (3 layers minimum);
• first, facades are attached to the varnished elements of the module, then they are installed in place;
• the upper cabinets can be hung as is, but to install the lower ones you will need a level without fail;
• the countertop is laid without fixing, markings are made for the sink, stove, taps. Remove the countertop, make holes;
• before installing the tabletop canvas on the cabinets, do not forget to also process and varnish it, if the surface requires it.

The place for washing is treated with sealants, as it will be exposed to regular moisture. The sequence is exactly this - cabinets, then the countertop.

Antiseptic treatment

We fix facades

Installing upper cabinets

We mount the countertop

Facade installation

Facades can be made from the most different materials- wood, chipboard, plastic, glass. Depending on the material used, when choosing hinges, consider the weight of the facade. Wooden will be heavier, and you need to mount it on a quality base. Particle boards and plastic is lighter.

Blind or paneled facade panels must exactly match the dimensions of the box, otherwise after installation you will get sloppy protrusions that will be extremely problematic to fix.

If you have manufactured or purchased facades, make sure that all edges are processed along the perimeter before installation. This is important, since during operation it is the facade that will be exposed to the maximum impact - it is cleaned, moisture and the main pollution get on it.

Installation of facades on the box occurs according to the marking of hinged loops. Therefore, it was very important to calculate all the markup at the project stage. Installing by eye here will not work - after all, the loop can get to the level with the shelf and, as a result, do not work as it should.

It is interesting that a person who has money did everything with his own hands ..

And I got great results..

This kitchen was not made by a professional furniture maker or cabinet maker,

Everything about Blum products is great. Use the proprietary Blum Dynalog program - it will do everything for you and, as a result, you will receive drawings with all the markings necessary for installing fittings:

I will describe the design details below, using the example of photographs of finished products.

Purchase of kitchen appliances

I recommend that you do not leave this step to the end. At a minimum, it is desirable, if not to buy, then at least to clearly define what you will buy later and download all the documentation for these products. Oven, stove, sink - although they are made according to some kitchen standards, but may have design features. Making a kitchen without even imagining what kind of equipment you will put there is wrong, you are tormented. For example, I didn’t take everything into account with the oven - therefore, instead of the facade under the oven, you still see a hole (you need to slightly mill the facade until you master it).

I bought an oven and induction hob Gorenje, Eleyus hood, Franke Java sink, faucet with Grohe Blue filtration system (the first in Ukraine in this design, by the way). 3200$

firewood order(chipboard, fiberboard, facades)

Previously, I sincerely believed that the production of furniture meant large workshops, expensive machines, dozens of people. It happens, of course, and so, but many work in garages. In order to produce furniture, you do not need to cut chipboard and make facades - this is exactly what dozens of people do in large workshops on expensive machines. We are on our way there.

The result of the design should be an Excel file containing a list of all the panels we need. Here's one:

In a relationship board materials, my choice was:
Chipboard Egger Cappuccino 18mm as body material
Chipboard Egger Platinum White 16mm as drawer material
Fiberboard Egger for cabinet backs
Painted MDF as facades

Now look, what a nuance. The company we are going to has a chipboard warehouse program - these are the options for thicknesses and colors that they keep in stock all the time. large quantities. If the chipboard that you need is present in the warehouse program - everything is OK, you will pay for so much square meters how much you need. But if not included - you have to buy chipboard sheets. One sheet, in the case of chipboard Egger, is 5.8 sq.m. And if you need 6.3 sq.m. still have to buy two sheets.

Companies that are engaged in cutting and edging chipboard, the production of facades, today can be found in almost any regional center countries. You give them blueprints and money. They are for you - all your firewood in a packaged form with delivery even to an apartment.

Cutting and edging chipboard, fiberboard, facades, delivery - all this cost me $ 650.

Hardware order(handles, legs, tandem boxes, etc.)

No problem. But it’s better not to scour all sorts of Leroy Marlins, since there are mostly unworthy mass markets. It is better to find a decent furniture fitting company with a large assortment and buy everything there.

I bought:
12 drawer sets full extension Blum Tandembox Intivo
2 hinges + bluemotion for under-washbasin door
1 roll-out grid with a closer under the oven
All this cost $1200

Purchasing a tool

In general, any handy kid already has some tools.
I had to buy a Makita screwdriver, a Bosch jigsaw, clamps and a Wolfcraft welder.

I will immediately warn you - there is nothing to do without a screwdriver in assembling furniture. There's absolutely great amount screws. And Chinese disposable crafts for 40 bucks will not help you. A screwdriver for a man is like a dildo for a woman. Don't be stingy. Please yourself. Come in handy.

So, at the beginning of the process we have:

First of all, we will take the firewood to the balcony and sort it into cabinets. Fortunately, each item has a sticker corresponding to the part number in the above parts list:

Well, let's start assembling. Almost all Italian cabinet furniture is assembled on dowels (chopiki) - the advantage of this method is that no parts of the fasteners climb out, the disadvantage is that the furniture assembled on dowels is non-separable. For such purposes, furniture makers prefer confirmation - it is much less demanding in terms of tolerances.

The connection on the dowels requires an accuracy of fitting the reciprocal holes of 0.5 millimeters. This result can be achieved without using special tool but with huge hemorrhoids. So I bought this tool:

We drill the first holes in the side of the cabinet:

So, our task is to assemble the first cabinet and understand whether our hands are growing from the ass, or still from the shoulders.

We take the sidewall, we will make holes that will be connected to the bottom with dowels. Pay attention to the drilling depth gauge on the drill. What it is for, I hope it is not necessary to explain. Bzzzin:

Here's what we got:

Holes on the sides - 40 mm. from the edges, center in the middle. Sidewall width (it matters, I'll tell you later) - 560 mm. The welder works in the mode of both drilling reciprocal holes and copying. Copy to the second side. This is the principle of operation of the filler for drilling reciprocal holes, I show on the example of the drawer:

Let me remind you that when connecting to dowels, the accuracy of drilling the reciprocal holes (plus or minus half a millimeter) is important. With these tools, I have never had a problem with this - the parts fit into each other (groaning) with little effort. This device costs nothing - 40 bucks. It will greatly save your time - I, for the sake of interest, tried to do manual marking on the test pieces Chipboard is many times more time and a much higher probability of error.

Here is the bottom of the box with counter holes already drilled for the sidewalls:

We drilled 20 holes and voila, our hands do not grow out of the ass:

Okay, let's move on. Now we need to equip the cabinet with closers, legs and a back wall made of fiberboard.
There is nothing complicated in mounting closers - all in the same Blum Dynalog program, you get the exact dimensions of the points where the guides will be attached. One rule applies here - measure seven times, cut one:

Just like two and two. If you make a mistake within 3 millimeters, everything will still work fine. This is a wonderful technique.

Mounting the legs is also not difficult. The main thing is to set yourself a standard for their location and follow it on all pedestals:

Another pedestal (the widest, 80 cm) is ripe. It already has guides and legs.

You should not worry at all due to some fragility of the product - as soon as the back wall is mounted - the cabinet will be filled with pleasant strength. Shown here First stage back fixings - the bottom is fastened with two screws on the sides, the diagonals and angles are measured, the top is fastened with a clamp to the side. Now you can safely peel the screws (after making a preliminary drilling with a two-millimeter drill):

Well, as if there is already progress:

Preparing facades. On the left side of the façade is a drilling jig (the same Wolfcraft), to the right is a hand drill:

Here a jigsaw came into play - I sawed holes for sockets with it, after which I asked for an open cut. Well, I hung the filter control unit and the holder of the filter itself:

When all the cabinets were ready, it was time to reunite them. At this stage, it is important, by adjusting the legs, to bring them into level - that is, the top of the cabinets should lie in the same plane. We clamp the cabinets together with clamps, and be sure to make a “lining” - wooden block into which the drill will exit. If this is not done, there will be serious chips at the exit hole.

I brought a countertop, Luxeform Boston 38 mm. I asked to make cutouts, they did, but look how original (did I put the commas correctly, in general?):

Basically, they are right. Transporting a massive table with a full cutout is a risk - it can break. I had to work with a jigsaw. The cut must be covered with silicone - open chipboard end will quickly swell if this is not done. Well, here you can also see how the issue with an obtuse angle was resolved - everything is very simply leveled. Naturally, I previously made a drawing with geometry calculation.