Template for filing on the mustache. Corner connection chipboard "on the mustache". Making a half-tree gusset

At the corners, the frame is joined with a “moustache” connection, reinforced with flat dowels (the so-called “biscuits”). The base is glued and compressed with clamps. Measuring the diagonals

To inside corners frames are mounted on glue and screws blocks of supports. The top end of the block must be flush with the top edge of the base frame.

Put the case on the back wall and attach the base to the bottom of the case with screws I screwed through the holes in the mounting strips

All screw supports are turned out and the position of the holes for them is marked with a pencil. The base is removed and Z10 mm holes are drilled in the bottom of the case.

make sure the bottoms are rectangular.

While the glue dries, cut out blocks of 37x37x82 mm for adjustable supports and drill 011 mm through holes in the center for the mustache nuts. At the same time, holes are drilled at right angles to each other for fastening the blocks with screws to the base. Clog mustache jackdaws. Blocks with screwed supports are approx. 100 mm long. They are flush with the top and bottom edges of the base frame.

Now the frame must be connected to the body. To do this, four slats 20x20 mm are cut out, which are designed to be installed between the support blocks, and mounting holes are drilled in them for fastening to the bottom of the case. Militaryly fix the base in place with four 32 mm screws. Turn out all the supports and mark the location of the hole for them on the bottom of the case with a pencil and drill them. When drilling, in order not to chip the plywood on the inside of the bottom, put a piece of board under it. Now the height of the supports can be adjusted with a screwdriver.

At

Rice. 1. Molding with rounded canton.

Doors are plywood panels with sawn-off and nailed edge strips or moldings with a section of 5x22 mm, which are made of solid wood with rounded edging (Fig. 1).

Before fixing the moldings, the corners are cleaned so that the drawers and the front wall of the drawer are flush. Then put moldings.

Having cut out the molding blank according to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, they take a piece of the rail and cut one end “on the mustache”. The first washed down is done taking into account that the semicircular protrusion is directed upwards. "on the mustache" from both ends.

Fitting a pair of moldings begins with sawing “on the mustache” of one end, They join the right end, carefully press the flat edge to the “whisker-> on the other hand, mark the position of the joint and make it washed down “on the mustache”.

With a sharp pencil, mark the location of the cuts “on the mustache” and saw off the moldings of the marking line with a truncated saw. They are glued and fastened in place with small pins.

Now the door is being hinged. Usually the cup diameter of European locker ash is 35 mm. The instructions that come with the hinges determine where to drill the sockets for the cups. Then transfer the hole markings to the cabinet door Attach the mounting plate and fix the hinges in place with screws European hinges can be adjusted in three directions - in / out, up / down and right / left. When the locker is exactly horizontal and vertical, the hinges are re-

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Pro Tips #5" 10

What could be easier connection wooden parts on the "mustache"? Despite the simplicity of the method, sometimes there are difficulties with the accuracy and accuracy of the connections. In this article, we will give you simple tips, adopting which, you will achieve incredible results. Your corner joints will always be perfect!

1. Choose the direction and structure of the fibers

Whether you are making a photo frame or a furniture front trim, make sure that the color of the wood, as well as the direction and structure of the fibers on the blanks, match. Matching parts with a similar structure takes a little time, but as a result you get excellent connections.

2. Fine-tuning the cutting angle with sticky paper

If you've ever tried to adjust yours by a few tenths of a degree, then you know how difficult it is to do so. Here's an easy way to do this: Tape a few sticky notes on the crosscut fence. Thus, by making test cuts and removing one sheet at a time, you will achieve the ideal cutting angle.

3. Use scrap pieces to try on parts

To accurately determine the length of the strapping element, you need to try it on the panel. This is easy to do if you fasten it to the trim trim panel

4. Use dowels for even connections

It is often not easy to evenly position the parts relative to each other and clamp them in clamps, especially when the parts are smeared with slippery glue. That is why woodworkers use dowels, even in cases where additional joint strength is not required.

5. Assemble frame structures on corner clamps

On some clamps, when assembling the frames, you need to additionally make sure that all corners are connected at 90 degrees. Using corner clamps there is no need for additional measurements of angles and setting of diagonals.

6. Increase your adhesive's "open time"

It is sometimes difficult to quickly apply glue to the joints, assemble the frames and clamp them in clamps without haste and fuss before the glue starts to set (often open time glue is less than 5 minutes in a warm and dry environment). To increase the open time of the adhesive, you can dilute it slightly with water. However, do not overdo it - if there is too much water, then the strength of the connection may decrease.

7. First assemble the parts on the "mustache", then profile

It is not always convenient to trim profiled blanks - chips may appear, they are not always easy to clamp in clamps - the outer profile of the product can be damaged. Therefore, simplify your life - first assemble and glue the frame from rectangular blanks, and after the glue dries, profile manual router or at

8. Trust your sense of touch

When you make a frame structure, the pieces on opposite sides of the product should be the same length. To verify this, conduct a simple test. Fold the two pieces together and run your finger along the ends. There shouldn't be any fluctuations. You may not notice the difference in length by eye, but you will definitely feel even a minimal mismatch in the length of the blanks.

9. Cover ugly crevices

If in the process of assembling products you still could not avoid cracks at the corners of the joints, do not despair. Just close them by pressing the corners to the center of the connection with a blunt, smooth object. You will be surprised, but the gap will disappear, while appearance the product will not be damaged. Believe me, even experienced craftsmen use this method.

10. You can change the proportions of the product in case of an error

If the last part of your strapping turned out to be a little shorter than the opposite, you can cut it along the inside. And after assembly, cut the rest of the parts according to outside. Thus, the width of the strapping will decrease slightly. If, for example, this is not furniture facade then no one will notice

A myriad of connections can be used to connect wooden parts. The names and classifications of joinery-carpentry joints tend to vary considerably by country, region, and even school of woodworking. The craftsmanship lies in the fact that the precision of execution provides a correctly functioning connection that is able to withstand the loads intended for it.

Initial information

Connection categories

All connections (in carpentry they are called bindings) of wooden parts according to the field of application can be divided into three categories (foreign version of the classification):

• box;
• frame (frame);
• for splicing/splicing.

Drawer connections are used, for example, in the manufacture of drawers and cabinets, frame connections are used in window frames and doors, and rallying / splicing serves to obtain parts of an increased size in width / length.

Many joints can be used in different categories, for example, butt joints are used in all three categories.

Material preparation

Even planed lumber may need some preparation.

• Trim the material with a margin in width and thickness for further planing. Don't cut to length yet.
• Choose the best quality layer - the front side. Plane it along the entire length. Check with a straightedge.
  After final alignment make a mark on the front side with a pencil.
• Plane the front - clean - edge. Check with a straightedge, as well as a square against the front side. Smooth out warp by planing. Mark a clean edge.
• Use a thickness gauge to mark the required thickness along all edges of the part contour. Plan up to this risk. Check with a straightedge.
• Repeat the operation for the width.
• Now mark up the length and actual connections. Mark from the front side and a clean edge.

Lumber marking

Be careful when marking lumber. Make sufficient allowances for kerf width, planing thickness and joining.

All readings are taken from the front side and the clean edge, on which put the appropriate marks. In frame and cabinet designs, these marks should face inward to improve manufacturing accuracy. For ease of sorting and assembly, number the parts as they are manufactured on the front side so as to indicate, for example, that side 1 is connected to end 1.

When marking identical parts, carefully align them and make markings on all workpieces at once. This will ensure that the markup is identical. When marking profile elements, keep in mind that there can be “right” and “left” parts.

Butt joints

These are the simplest of joinery and carpentry joints. They can be included in all three categories of compounds.

Assembly

The butt joint can be reinforced with nails hammered at an angle. Drive the nails in randomly.

Trim the ends of the two pieces evenly and join them. Secure with nails or screws. Before this, glue can be applied to the parts to enhance fixation. Butt joints in frame structures can be reinforced with a steel plate or a corrugated key on the outside or with a wooden block fixed from the inside.

Nail / dowel connections

Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These plug-in round spikes increase shear (shear) strength and, with adhesive, hold the assembly in place more securely. Dowel joints can be used as frame joints (furniture), drawer joints (cabinets) or for splicing/joining (panels).

Assembling the dowel joint

1. Carefully cut out all the components to exactly the right dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the upright.

2. Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end must be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide bar may require more than two dowels.

Mark the center lines for the pins on the end of the crossbar and transfer them to the rack using the square.

3. Lay the rack and crossbar front side up. On the square, transfer the center lines to the rack. Number and label all connections if there are more than one pair of uprights and crossbars.

4. Transfer this marking to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.

5. From the front side with a thickness gauge, draw a risk in the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the dowels.

With a thickness gauge, draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the dowel holes.

6. An electric drill with a twist drill or hand drill with a spatula drill, drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a center point and cutters. The hole across the fibers should be about 2.5 times the diameter of the dowel, and the hole at the end should be about 3 times the depth. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm, at this distance the dowel should not reach the bottom.

7. Remove excess fibers from the top of the holes with a countersink. This will also make it easier to install the dowel and create space for the adhesive to secure the joint.

Nagels

The dowel must have a longitudinal groove (now standard dowels are made with longitudinal ribs), through which excess glue will be removed when assembling the joint. If the dowel does not have a groove, then cut it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole by the dowel. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it with a file or grind the edges of their ends.

Use of pins for marking dowels

Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel pins into the pin holes. Align the crossbar with the markings of the rack and squeeze the parts together. The tips of the teats will make marks on the rack. Drill holes through them. Alternatively, you can make a template out of a wooden block, drill holes in it, fix the template on the part and drill holes for the dowels through the holes in it.

Using a jig for a dowel connection

The metal jig for dowel connections greatly facilitates the marking and drilling of holes for dowels. In box joints, the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the face of wide panels.

conductor for nail joints

1. Mark center lines on the front of the material where the dowel holes are to be. Select a suitable drill guide bushing and insert it into the jig.

2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the jig and secure the slide bearing of the guide bush.

3. Install the jig on the part. Align the center notch with the center line of the dowel hole. Tighten.

4. Install the drilling depth gauge on the drill at the desired location.

Rallying

To get a wider wood detail using dowels, you can connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Place two boards with the wide sides together, line up the ends exactly, and clamp the pair in a vise. On a clean edge, draw perpendicular lines indicating the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, with a thickness gauge, make risks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the dowel holes.

The pin connection is neat and strong.

Flange / mortise connections

A notch, tie-in or groove connection is called a corner or middle connection, when the end of one part is attached to the layer and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cut made in the face. It is used in frame (house frames) or box (cabinets) connections.

Types of mortise / mortise connections

The main types of butt joints are the dark/semi-dark T-joint (often this term is replaced by the term "flush/semi-flush"), which looks like a butt joint, but is stronger, a quarter corner (corner joint) and a dark/semi-dark corner joint. A corner cut into a rebate and a corner cut into a rebate with darkness / semi-darkness are made in the same way, but the rebate is made deeper - two-thirds of the material is selected.

Making a cut

1. Mark a groove on the face of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue the lines on both edges.

2. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. The depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste part of the material.

3. C-clamp the workpiece securely. Saw through the shoulders on the waste side of the marking lines to the desired depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the waste to make it easier to remove the material with a chisel.

Saw close to the marking line on the return side, making intermediate cuts with a wide groove.

4. Working with a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check the flatness of the bottom. To level the bottom, you can use a primer.

With a chisel, remove the waste, working from both sides, and level the bottom of the groove.

5. Check the fit, if the piece is too tight it may need to be trimmed. Check for perpendicularity.

6. The notch connection can be strengthened by one of the following methods or a combination of them:

• gluing and clamping until the adhesive sets;
• screwing with screws through the face of the outer part;
• nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
• nailing obliquely through the corner.

The notch connection is strong enough

Tongue and groove connections

This is a combination of a quarter cut and a rebate cut. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the installation of slopes of window openings.

Making a connection

1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. On one part, mark the shoulder by measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and front side.

2. Mark the second shoulder from the end, it should be at a distance of one third of the thickness of the material. Continue on both edges.

3. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove (one third of the thickness of the material) on the edges between the shoulder lines.

4. With a hacksaw with a butt, saw through the shoulders to the risks of the thicknesser. Remove waste with a chisel and check for evenness.

5. Using a thickness gauge with the same setting, mark the line on back side and on the edges of the second part.

Adviсe:

• Tongue and groove type joints can be easily made with a router and an appropriate guide, either for the groove only or for both the groove and rebate. Recommendations for correct work with a cutter, see p. 35.
• If the comb is too tight in the groove, trim the front (smooth) side of the comb or sand with sandpaper.

6. From the front side with a thickness gauge, make markings on the edges towards the end and on the end itself. Saw along the lines of the thickness gauge with a hacksaw with a butt. Do not cut too deep as this will weaken the connection.

7. Working with a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Half tree connections

Half-timber connections refer to frame connections, which are used to connect parts in layers or along an edge. The connection is made by taking the same amount of material from each part so that they are joined flush with each other.

Types of joins in half-tree

There are six main types of connections in the half-tree: transverse, angular, flush, angular mustache, dovetail and splicing.

Making a half-tree gusset

1. Align the ends of both parts. On the top side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second piece.

2. Set the thicknesser at half the thickness of the parts and draw a line on the ends and edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the top side of one and the bottom side of the other part.

3. Clamp the part in a vise at an angle of 45° (face vertically). Carefully cut along the grain close to the thicknesser line on the back side until the saw is diagonal. Flip the piece over and continue sawing gently, gradually raising the saw handle until the saw lines up with the shoulder line on both edges.

4. Remove the part from the vise and place it on the face. Press it firmly against the hutch and clamp it with a clamp.

5. Saw through the shoulder to the previous cut and remove the waste. Align all irregularities in the sample with a chisel. Check the accuracy of the cut.

6. Repeat the process on the second part.

7. Check the fit of the parts and, if necessary, level with a chisel. The connection must be rectangular, flush, without gaps and backlashes.

8. The connection can be strengthened with nails, screws, glue.

Corner joints on the mustache

Corner joints on the mustache are made using the bevel of the ends and hide the end grain, and also aesthetically correspond more to the angular rotation of the decorative overlay.

Types of corner connections on the mustache

To perform a bevel of the ends in a corner joint, the angle at which the parts meet is divided in half. In a traditional joint, this angle is 90°, so each end is cut at 45°, but the angle can be either obtuse or sharp. In uneven corner joints, parts with different widths are connected to the mustache.

Making a corner connection

1. Mark the length of the parts, keeping in mind that it should be measured on the long side, as the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.

2. Having decided on the length, mark the line at 45° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.

3. With a combination square, transfer the markup to all sides of the part.

4. When hand cutting, use a miter box and a backed hacksaw or hand miter saw. Press the part firmly against the back of the miter box - if it moves, the bevel will turn out uneven and the joint will not fit well. If you are sawing freehand, be careful not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. A miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.

5. Place the two pieces together and check the fit. You can correct it by trimming the surface of the bevel with a planer. Firmly fix the part and work with a sharp planer, setting a small overhang of the knife.

6. The connection should be knocked down with nails through both parts. To do this, first lay the parts on the face and drive nails into the outer side of the bevel so that their tips slightly show out of the bevels.

Start nails in both parts so that the tips protrude slightly from the surface of the bevel.

7. Apply glue and squeeze the joint tightly so that one part protrudes slightly - overlaps the other. First, drive nails into the protruding part. Under hammer blows when driving nails, the part will move slightly. Surfaces must be level. Nail the other side of the connection and sink the nail heads. Check squareness.

Drive the nails into the protruding piece first, and the impact of the hammer will move the joint into position.

8. If there is a small gap due to unevenness, smooth the connection on both sides with a round screwdriver rod. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, then you will either have to redo the connection, or close the gap with putty.

9. For reinforcement corner connection on the mustache can be glued inside the corner wooden block if it is not visible. If appearance is important, then the connection can be made on a plug-in spike or secured with veneer dowels. Pins or lamellas (standard flat studs) can be used inside the flat joints.

Splicing on a mustache and connection with cutting

Splicing on a mustache connects the ends of parts located on the same straight line, and a connection with a cut is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.

Mustache splicing

When splicing with a mustache, the parts are connected by the same bevels at the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.

Cutting connection

Connection with cutting (with cutting, with fitting) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in the corner, for example, two skirting boards or cornices. If the part moves during its fastening, then the gap will be less noticeable than with a corner joint.

1. Fix the first skirting board in place. Move the second plinth close to it, located along the wall.

Fasten the first skirting board in place and press the second skirting board against it, aligning it with the wall.

2. Swipe along the profiled surface of the fixed plinth with a small wooden block with a pencil pressed against it. The pencil will leave a marking line on the plinth to be marked.

With a bar with a pencil pressed against it, attached with an edge to the second plinth, draw along the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will mark the line of the cut.

3. Cut along the marking line. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Complex profiles

Lay the first plinth in place and, placing the second plinth in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the desired shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.

Eyelet connections

Eyelet connections are used when it is required to join intersecting parts located "on the edge", either in the corner or in the middle (for example, the corner of the window frame or where the leg of the table connects to the crossbar).

Eyelet connection types

The most common types of eye connections are angle and tee (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but you can strengthen it with a dowel.

Making an eyelet connection

1. Mark out in the same way as for but divide the thickness of the material by three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both parts. On one part, you will need to choose the middle. This groove is called an eyelet. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle part is called a spike.

2. Saw along the fibers to the line of the shoulders along the marking lines on the side of the waste. Cut out the shoulders with a hacksaw with a butt, and you get a spike.

3. Working on both sides, select the material from the eyelet with a chisel/grooving chisel or jigsaw.

4. Check the fit and fine-tune with a chisel if necessary. Apply adhesive to the joint surfaces. Check squareness. Use a C-clamp to clamp the joint while the adhesive cures.

Spike-to-socket connection

Spike-to-socket connections, or just spike connections, are used when two parts are connected at an angle or at an intersection. It is probably the strongest of all frame joints in carpentry and is used in the manufacture of doors, window frames and furniture.

Types of spike-to-socket connections

The two main types of stud joints are the usual stud-in-socket connection and the stepped stud-in-socket connection (semi-dark). The spike and socket are approximately two-thirds of the width of the material. The expansion of the nest is made on one side of the groove (semi-darkness), and a spike step is inserted into it from its corresponding side. Semi-darkness helps to prevent the thorn from turning out of the nest.

Standard spike-to-socket connection

1. Determine the connection position on both pieces and mark on all sides of the material. The markup shows the width of the intersecting part. The spike will be at the end of the crossbar, and the socket will go through the post. The spike should have a small allowance in length for further stripping of the connection.

2. Pick up a chisel as close as possible in size to a third of the thickness of the material. Set the thickness gauge to the size of the chisel and mark the nest in the middle of the rack between the previously marked marking lines. Work from the front. If desired, you can set the thickness solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it on both sides.

3. In the same way, mark the spike on the butt and both sides to mark the shoulders on the crossbar.

4. Clamp a piece of wood secondary support in a vise high enough to attach the edge-on stand to it. Fasten the post to the support by placing the clamp next to the marking of the nest.

5. Cut out the nest with a chisel, making an inward allowance of about 3 mm from each of its ends so as not to damage the edges when sampling waste. Hold the chisel straight and parallel
its edges are the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically, placing the sharpening bevel towards the middle of the socket. Repeat from the other end.

6. Make a few intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and bevel down. Select the waste by using the chisel as a lever. Going deeper by 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue until about half the thickness. Flip the part over and work the same way on the other side.

7. After removing the main part of the waste, clean the nest and cut off the allowance left earlier to the marking lines on each side.

8. Cut the spike along the fibers, leading a hacksaw with a butt along the marking line from the side of the waste, and cut out the shoulders.

9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the cleat must fit snugly against the post, and the joint must be perpendicular and free from play.

10. Wedges can be inserted on both sides of the spike to secure. A gap for this is made in the nest. Working with a chisel from the outside of the nest, widen about two thirds of the depth with a 1:8 slope. Wedges are made with the same slope.

11. Apply glue and press firmly. Check squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and drive them into place. Saw off the tenon allowance and remove excess glue.

Other spike connections

Stud joints for window frames and doors are somewhat different from half-dark stud joints, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a fold and / or an overlay for glass or a panel (panel). When making a connection with a spike into a socket on a part with a seam, make the plane of the spike in line with the edge of the seam. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is shorter so as not to block the fold.

Studded joints for parts with overlays have a cut-off shoulder to match the profile of the overlay. Alternatively, you can remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or cut to match the counterpart.
Other types of spike-to-socket connections:

• Side spike - in the manufacture of doors.
• A hidden beveled spike in semi-darkness (with a beveled step) - to hide the spike.
• Spike in the dark (steps of the stud on its two sides) - for relatively wide details, such as the lower trim (bar) of the door.

All these connections can be through, or they can be deaf, when the end of the spike will not be visible from reverse side racks. They can be reinforced with wedges or dowels.

Rallying

Wide, high-quality wood is becoming increasingly difficult to find and very expensive. In addition, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes it difficult to work with them. To connect narrow boards along the edge into wide panels for worktops or workbench covers, rallying is used.

Training

Before starting the actual rallying, you must do the following:

• If possible, select radial sawn boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage than lumber. tangential sawing. If boards of tangential sawing are used, then lay their sound side alternately in one and the other side.
• Try not to bundle materials with different sawing methods into one panel.
• Never join boards of different types of wood unless they are properly dried. They will shrink and crack.
• If possible, arrange the boards with the fibers in one direction.
• Be sure to cut the material to size before stapling.
• Use only good quality glue.
• If the wood will be polished, adjust the texture or color.

Rallying for a smooth fugue

1. Lay all boards face up. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn at an angle along the joints.

2. Plan straight edges and check the fit to the corresponding adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.

3. Make sure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is flat. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or putty it, the connection will subsequently crack.

4. When planing short pieces, clamp the two right sides together in a vise and plan both edges at the same time. It is not necessary to maintain the squareness of the edges, since when docking they will mutually compensate for their possible inclination.

5. Prepare as for a butt joint and apply adhesive. Squeeze with lapping to connect the two surfaces, squeezing out excess glue and helping the surfaces to “stick” to each other.

Other payment methods

Other fusion joints with different amplifications are prepared in the same way. These include:

• with pins (dowels);
• in a groove and a comb;
• in a quarter.

Bonding and clamping

Gluing and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.

Adhesives

The adhesive reinforces the connection, holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily pulled apart. Be sure to wear protective gloves when handling adhesives and follow the safety instructions on the packaging. Clean the product of excess glue before it sets, as it can dull the planer knife and clog the abrasive of the skin.

PVA (polyvinyl acetate)

PVA glue is a universal glue for wood. When still wet, it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It perfectly sticks together loose surfaces, does not require long-term fixation for setting and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a fairly strong bond and sticks to almost any porous surface. Gives a permanent bond, but is not heat and moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, and on large surfaces, dilute with water and apply paint roller. Since PVA glue has water base, then shrinks when set.

contact adhesive

Contact adhesive sticks together immediately after application and connection of parts. Apply it to both surfaces and when the glue is dry to the touch, join them. It is used for laminate (laminate) or veneer to chipboard. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Work with it in a well ventilated area to reduce the concentration of fumes. Not recommended for outdoor use, as it is not moisture and heat resistant.

Epoxy adhesive

Epoxy is the strongest adhesive used in woodworking and the most expensive. It is a two-component resin-based adhesive that does not shrink on setting and softens when heated and does not creep under load. Water-resistant and bonds almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics, such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass ( organic glass). Suitable for outdoor work. In the uncured form, it can be removed with a solvent.

hot glue

Hot melt adhesive bonds almost everything, including many plastics. Usually sold in the form of glue sticks that are inserted into a special electric glue gun for gluing. Apply glue, join surfaces and squeeze for 30 seconds. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvents.

Clips for fixation

Clamps are various designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple of varieties are required. Be sure to place a spacer between the clamp and the product. wood waste to avoid denting from applied pressure.

Gluing and fixing technique

Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product “dry” - without glue. Lock if necessary to check connections and dimensions. If everything is fine, disassemble the product, placing the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare the clamps with the jaws/stops set apart to the desired distance.

Frame assembly

Spread the adhesive evenly with a brush on all surfaces to be glued and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess adhesive and secure assembly with clips. Compress the connections with even pressure. The clamps must be perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.

Position the clamps as close as possible to the connection. Check the parallelism of the crossbars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a slight but sharp blow to one end of the rack can even out the shape. Adjust clamps if necessary.

If the frame does not lie flat on flat surface, then tap the protruding areas with a mallet through a block of wood as a spacer. If that doesn't work, you may need to loosen the clamps or clamp the wood block across the frame.

GLUING THE CONNECTIONS ON THE US

Get good connection on the mustache on the framework is quite difficult. When you glue and clamp corners, the pieces always move.

I found a simple solution. Before gluing on the back side of the frame, I fix the corners with one or two brackets (Fig. 1).

The brackets allow you to open the front side of the joint and introduce glue into it (Fig. 2). In addition, when tightening the clamps, they keep the corners aligned (Fig. 3). When the glue hardens, the brackets can be easily removed.

HOW TO GET RID OF CUTTING

No matter how adjusted thicknesser, the ends of the boards always turn out to be cut deeper than necessary.

To reduce waste, I add slats to the workpiece that can be sacrificed. They are approximately 150 mm longer than the workpiece, so they get all the trimming. These slats on the sides working part are fixed with small drops of hot melt adhesive, and then the "sandwich" is passed through the machine. When the workpiece is planed to size, the auxiliary rails are easy to remove.

JOINT OF SHELF HOLDERS

When installing shelves, a lot of time is spent on marking and drilling holes for their supports. This must be done very precisely. Therefore, in order to do without measurements at all, I use a simple device. It is a wooden jig with four holes. Dowels are inserted into two of them as guides.

First, drill two holes in the wall. Then insert the dowels into them and use the tool to drill the next two holes. Then move the conductor to just drilled holes, prepare next couple holes and so on. As a result, all holes will be drilled at the same distance from each other.

FLAP FOR DUST MANIFOLD

I recently bought a dust collector for my workshop. It is convenient to work with it if you add a damper, which you decided to make from plywood (see photo). I started making the damper by sawing out two pieces of plywood 20 mm thick with holes with a diameter equal to the outer diameter of the pipes.

I inserted spacers 3 mm thick between the plywood plates, which created a gap for the damper. Then, on glue and screws, I assembled the entire structure. The sliding flap was made 3 mm thick. I glued a wooden handle to its upper end, and screwed a screw into the lower end, which prevents the damper from falling out in the open position.

Then I cut and installed in the plywood two trims from the dust collector pipe so that they were flush with the inner edges of the holes in the plywood.

goniometer

I work with a jigsaw a lot, and often have to change the tilt of his table. But the simplest scale under it is not very accurate and difficult to read. Therefore, from a cheap plastic protractor, I made a goniometer. This is wooden block with a protractor attached to the side (Fig. 1). A piece of wire hung in the center shows the angle of inclination (Fig. 2). When working with a goniometer, first align the protractor so that the wire arrow shows 90 °, and then measure the tilt of the table.

SHARPENING THE V-SHAPED CHISEL

Compared to a regular chisel, sharpening a wood carving tool is a little more difficult.

Sharpening of the front sides. Sharpening a V-shaped tool begins with a bevel on the front side and is similar to sharpening a regular chisel. Since the V-shaped tool has two sides converging at an angle, both must be sharpened.

Use a medium grit bar with water or oil. When sharpening, hold the chisel at an angle of approximately 20°-25° and move it short moves back and forth along the bar (Fig. 1). It is necessary to achieve the same sharpening of both sides. To do this, make several passes on one side, then the same number of passes on the other. After sharpening, you will see a small burr running across each inner side. Remove it by polishing the inside of the cutter on the leather strap.

Hook Removal.

When the burr is removed, outer corner a small hook remains (Fig. 2a). If you don't remove it, the tool will be hard to manage. Remove the hook by sequentially rotating the tip of the chisel back and forth across the medium grit bar (Fig. 2).

Polishing. Polishing removes tiny nicks on cutting edge, where the outer and inner side. By removing notches, you will make the tool much sharper. To polish the edge, apply some GOI paste to the leather belt and repeat the sharpening steps (Fig. 3).

INSTALLING THE DRAWER DRAWER MECHANISM

Wooden sleds are traditional, but they can sag under heavy load if the cupboard drawer is filled with cutlery, for example. Fully retractable ball and roller mechanisms do not jam and allow you to easily reach objects lying on the floor. rear wall. Mechanism full extension must be mounted with the guide rails installed at the same height. This is difficult to do in a sideboard, as the edges of the guide slide are usually rounded, and therefore there is no “reference point”.

In a cupboard, drawer mounting bars can be attached to the lid instead of to the side walls. Therefore, it is necessary to press the bar to the lower edge of the jumper so that a protrusion is formed. After installing the guides in place, they are exactly flush with the lower edge of the jumpers and at the same level.

HOW TO MAKE RIGHT ANGLES

Usually the edging strips are attached to the already made body - you just need to glue and press them into place with clamps.

On the sideboard, I added vertical piping to the side walls before I assembled the cabinet. And instead of a butt joint, I sawed out the tongue and groove joints to increase strength and keep the parts aligned when clamped with clamps.

Keeping the parts aligned is not the same as keeping the right angle between them. The problem is not in the connection, but in the clamps. If the clamps are not exactly centered on the connection, they tend to deflect the edging from right angle(Fig. 1).

One solution to the problem is to make sure that the clamps are exactly centered. But The best way- insert clamping blocks into the corner of the assemblies (Fig. 2). Then the assembly will automatically be at right angles to the side walls.

SAWING 3D PANELS

Sawing long sides of panels is not a problem. But sawing short ends less than 150 mm wide is difficult.

When feeding short ends, the panel is unstable, especially when there is only 5 mm of bearing surface between the ruler and the disc. To press the part firmly against the longitudinal ruler, the hands must pass very close to the disk.

Attach a tall auxiliary ruler to the longitudinal ruler. Then install the panel on the saw and press it firmly.

Then, while holding the slab in place, use a hand vise to press a pair of wood planks against the slab so that they lie flat on the top edge of the reference ruler. This will give you extra support.

BEVELING

When sawing three-dimensional panels on a circular saw, traces of the disk often remain on the bevels. The fastest way to remove them is to use a scraper block with an edge that matches the panel margin shoulder.

TENDER PINE

Pine is a soft wood species that requires a special approach. Many difficulties arise when sanding and finishing pine. She slips easily. To move large items, use a sheet of plywood - place the item on plywood, not on a concrete floor. This will keep the ends of the boards from chipping.

Most scratches can be quickly cleaned up. And dents - remove with a hot iron and a damp cloth, as the wood absorbs moisture from the steam, and the dents disappear.

Before processing pine, make sure that the circular disc is sharp: a blunt disc tears soft fibers, and does not cut them. Pay attention to the tarry disc. During washing, the resin creates a lot of resistance. Resin build-up can be removed by rinsing the disc with a household cleaner.

When drilling pine, the first pass must be done with a hand drill switched to reverse. In this case, the teeth on the drill scrape the outer diameter of the hole, thinly cutting off the wood fibers.

Pine wood fibers can be broken not only when sawing and drilling, but also when removing dried glue, especially if it is scraped off. Do not apply too much glue to the joint and clean off any excess glue immediately before it is completely cured.

Stripping pine has its own specific features. Usually a grinder is used for this. But it leaves almost invisible spiral marks on the pine. Therefore, finish cleaning your products manually.

Use a clear block. Sanding without a block will remove more young wood as it is softer and the result will be a wavy rather than a smooth surface.

There are two things to consider when finishing pine. Firstly, pine unevenly absorbs wood stain, so wood stains are obtained dark spots. Try to deresin the wood first, which will even out the absorbency of the stain. Secondly, if possible, choose light stains. They are not as strong as dark ones, they emphasize dents, broken fibers or spiral marks.

LONGITUDINAL SAWING OF TRANSVERSELY WARPED BOARDS

Such boards can be sawn lengthwise in two ways, and both have their advantages and disadvantages.

The board lies with the concave side down. When sawing the board longitudinally in this position, it rests on two ribs. Therefore, when performing most cuts, the board lies steadily. But problems can arise on the last centimeters washed down. When you finish drinking, the cut between the ruler and the disc may fall down and get stuck against the disc. To reduce the risk, on the last centimeters washed down quickly feed the workpiece forward.

The board lies with the concave side up. In this variant, there will be no risk of jamming at the end of the cut. But the board itself will be less stable during the whole wash down.

Perhaps the best (and safest) way to rip cut a warped board and avoid kickback is to use a bandsaw instead of a circular saw.

Get by without a drill

To assemble furniture, you need to drill a lot of holes for fittings, or additives, as the professionals say. Moreover, this work requires high precision. Otherwise, what kind of assembly will it be? One upset! If it happens at all.

Just pick up a drill and start drilling parts - this option disappears immediately. The axis of the hole must be strictly in the given planes. It is especially difficult to fulfill this condition when drilling the end of a part - for example, a shelf.

1. Alternatively, you can use a conductor. I work with a conductor from the KWB company, it is sold in building supermarkets. The device allows you to drill holes different diameters at a given distance from the edge. For a novice furniture maker or an experienced, but working at a distance from the workshop, such a device is quite suitable. But you can't work like this all the time. This is not the case - to carry a tool in your hand all day, and even try to keep the part exactly, standing on the edge! All this is tedious and leads to a decrease in the quality of work. There is only one way out - to organize your work so that the part lies on the desktop. And the tool that performs drilling was standing on it. The operator will only have to put the parts on the table in a given position and move the tool back and forth.

Based on these inputs, I made a simple device (machine), which, it seems to me, will be useful not only for professionals, but also for home craftsmen who have limited time to do what they love. The industry, as far as I know, has not yet thought of such a necessary device.

2. For the machine, I adapted the engine from the grinder. True, the thread pitch of the motor shaft and the cartridge from the drill turned out to be different. I had to use the services of a turner. The grinder motor is asynchronous. Compared to a drill, it works almost silently. And due to the absence of elements that work with friction - a collector and brushes - its service life is significantly increased.

3. The basis of the machine is a chipboard construction from an old cabinet. The engine is mounted on a plywood base, from the bottom of which two aluminum channels are fixed. Thanks to these slides and the grooves for them, formed on the table by chipboard bars, the engine can only move back and forth relative to the desktop on which the part is installed.

4. Aluminum stop square pipe additionally performs the function of a channel for removing chips and dust. A vacuum cleaner is connected to it. The distance from the drill axis to the desktop surface is 8 mm. This is enough to add all the fittings. If needed greater value- just put a couple of strips of a given thickness under the sole of the engine.

5. Drilling precise dowel holes in the edge of the part.

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