Whitewashing, or, as it is otherwise called, lime wall painting, is one of the cheapest types of repair of wall and ceiling surfaces. For cooking lime mortar for coloring you will need lime paste, as well as blue to give the solution a bluish tint.

In addition, you will need a large brush for whitewashing the walls with lime. By the way, the surface can be painted not only with ordinary whitewash, but also with color: for this, special dyes should be added to the mixture, which are designed to color lime mortar.

Are you preparing the solution correctly?

Whisk for whitewash

It should be especially emphasized that the quality of whitewashing the walls with lime depends, first of all, on whether you have prepared the solution correctly for work. Quality mix It will work if you follow the following proportions.

6 to 7 liters cold water take a standard package of lime paste (it weighs 4.5 kilograms). Gently and thoroughly mix the resulting solution - your mixture should be homogeneous in appearance, similar to cream or sour cream.

In the event that you want to paint the walls and ceiling in White color, needed in ready mix for whitewashing, add ultramarine blue. At the same time, remember that ultramarine powder is diluted in advance in cold water (the color should turn out to be uniform, deep blue). Then gradually pour the finished liquid into the lime mortar, achieving the desired shade.

Preparing walls for whitewashing

If whitewash is applied for the first time

In order for the whitewashed walls to look beautiful, the surface must be prepared for repair. In the event that the walls are simply plastered and have never been whitewashed before (as, for example, in a new building), the work is simplified. True, it is necessary to whitewash the walls under these circumstances in three layers.

The first layer can be applied without the use of blue. When base layer dry, it will be possible to apply already and subsequent ones, in which, if necessary, you will add ultramarine blue or a special dye of a suitable shade. As for the drying time of the surface, it is approximately five to six hours for each individual layer.

Remove rust and grease stains

Grinding the surface of the ceiling

In the same case, if the surface of the walls is not ideal, you should careful preparation to the application of a layer of lime whitewash. First of all, gently wash the stains on the walls with plain water, as well as rust spots. Then treat these places well with a solution. blue vitriol. The proportions for the preparation of this solution are as follows: from fifty to one hundred grams of vitriol are diluted in one liter of boiling water.

What to do if the walls you plan to whitewash have greasy spots? In this case, soda ash will come to the rescue, from which a two percent solution is prepared.

Dampen a clean white rag with this solution, and then blot the stain well. Keep the rag on until the stain is completely gone. Next, the surface treated with a solution soda ash should be rinsed thoroughly with water.

No soot and cracks or whitewashing at 100%

But if the walls are sufficiently smoked, another recipe will help you. Take a solution of hydrochloric acid(two or three percent) and wipe the surfaces to be whitewashed with this solution.

In the event that there are cracks and other defects on the walls, you will need to repair them before you start whitewashing the walls. This will require putty. It is not necessary to buy an expensive branded mixture.

You can make your own solution. To do this, take one part of gypsum, two parts of chalk, and two parts of wood glue (diluted). Keep in mind that when diluting wood glue, you also need to take into account the rules regarding proportions: for example, fifty grams of glue is required per liter of water. As a result, you will get the simplest, but fairly high-quality putty mixture.

There is another recipe for excellent putty. Take lime dough (that is, thick slaked lime) in the amount of two and a half kilograms. Add five liters of water to it. And finally, add one more component - one hundred grams of ordinary table salt (it needs to be diluted in hot water).

Then you need to add another five liters of water to the resulting solution and mix everything carefully and thoroughly. Then strain the mixture through a fine sieve. The last stage is the addition of wood glue, diluted with water in a ratio of one to ten, as well as with chalk powder (about two hundred grams).

The adhesive solution will be required for such an amount of putty about one and a half liters. So, as a result, you get an excellent consistency, which in the future you can also use for priming walls. Such a composition creates an even, smooth film and may well replace an expensive branded primer. As for the application of putty, here you will need an ordinary spatula.

How to wash off old whitewash from the walls?

ceiling painting

In the event that there is already whitewash on the surface of the walls, it is imperative to get rid of the old one before applying layers of new material. The usual chalk whitewash from the walls is washed off with water. To do this, it will be necessary to apply water with a roller - the entire surface of the wall is treated with moisture evenly.

It is best to go through the walls several times, keeping short periods of time between applying water. In the event that the walls do not get dirty, you can be sure that you have removed the existing whitewash with high quality.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with useful tips, which will help you remove old whitewash from the walls quickly and thoroughly.

• Before you start removing whitewash with water, be sure to prepare the room. If possible, remove all furniture from the room, and cover floors and window openings, as well as doors with polyethylene. In the same case, if it is unrealistic to take out the furniture, also protect it with plastic wrap. Keep in mind that whitewash is very difficult to clean from surfaces;
• Before starting work, be sure to de-energize the electrical wiring in the room. Be careful and careful;
• It is desirable that the person working in the room has a reliable headgear. Many builders, by the way, use caps made from newspapers. Put on gloves on your hands, because the effect of lime on the skin will not be useful at all;
• In case you are working at arm's length (for example, at the top of a wall), try to make sure that dirty water did not flow under the sleeves. To do this, a plastic cover can be attached to the base of the roller. In this case, your hands will remain clean and dry.

Once you have wetted the whitewash on the walls well, you can begin to remove it. Usually the walls are cleaned of the old layer well - if you, of course, conscientiously moistened them with water. We take a spatula - and get to work.

And after the whitewash is removed from the walls, we carefully examine the walls for the presence of fragile plaster. Be sure to scrape off the old, crumbling material. If voids are suddenly found in the plaster layer, we remove them, and then cover them with a fresh mixture.

Priming the surface of the walls

Mortar

After all the work on cleaning the walls and their puttying has been done, it is time to cover the surfaces with a primer. This is the last preparatory stage before starting the whitewashing procedure.

You can use the recipe above, or any other available and effective composition to work with. So, for example, the primer is prepared in this way. You need to take three kilograms of lime dough, about two hundred grams of ordinary laundry soap(or rather, soap chips), as well as about one hundred grams of drying oil ("Oksol").

Slaked lime is diluted in four liters of water. In another container, in three liters of hot water, grated or chopped soap is diluted, drying oil is added to the solution. The two resulting solutions are mixed. That's all - a high-quality primer is ready. The only thing, do not forget to dilute it with water immediately before work (the total volume of the solution should be about ten liters).

Of course, the main purpose of using a primer is to create on the surface of the wall thin film through which the paint is not able to penetrate. Thus, the surface will be painted evenly, and it will dry more evenly. Apply the prepared primer to the wall surface with a roller. You can also use a wide brush or paint sprayer. Wait for the layer to dry. And only after that you can begin the work on whitewashing the walls themselves.

In the event that you decide to whitewash both the walls and the ceiling in the room, you must definitely start work from the ceiling. And only when the ceiling is absolutely dry, you can start processing the surface of the walls with lime mortar. This is the basic rule for whitewashing walls with lime.

The walls should be whitewashed in this way: the hand moves from top to bottom, and certainly in one direction. One layer of whitewash for the walls will not be enough, you will need to apply two, and in some cases even three layers. Each layer of lime whitewash should dry well. It will take, on average, five to six hours.

When treating the surface of the walls with lime mortar, do not forget that the container with the mixture must be shaken, thus mixing the contents. The fact is that lime paste quickly settles to the bottom of the tank. If you notice that the solution has become thicker than you need, add water (a little, of course) and mix thoroughly.

Only if you whitewash the walls with lime correctly, following all the rules and recommendations, then at the end of the work the surfaces will look perfect.

At the start repair work, namely the whitewashing of ceilings, many people think about the question: how to dilute lime for work? What is the consumption of lime for whitewashing? The cooking method itself and what tools may be needed for this. We will talk about this later in this article.

Ceiling whitewash

Lime is a building product that is produced by special firing. rocks.

For the preparation of lime, they extract: chalk, limestone, shell rock, dolomitic limestone. Lime can be subdivided into types, depending on the rock from which it was extracted.

Types of lime by basic oxide:

1. calcium;
2. Magnesian;
3. Dolomitic.

According to the method of quenching, they distinguish:

1. Medium extinction;
2. Fast extinguishing;
3. Slow extinguishing.

In order to prepare lime for whitewashing, you will need: lumpy lime, a stirring stick, water, a container.

Cooking process

• Any lime must be extinguished (regardless of composition). Usually it is bred for dough or fluff, depending on the further destination. Quicklime is suitable only as a strengthening and astringent material in construction, but not for whitewashing;
• For the preparation of lime for whitewashing ceilings, trees, chicken coops and other utility rooms only slaked lime is used, which I dilute in different proportions of water;
• To prepare fluff, 1 part of lumpy lime is taken and placed in a special container for extinguishing. The container should not be rusty and deep enough. Cold water is poured into the same container. The proportions are taken based on the mass of lime. For example, 4 liters of water are needed for 4 kg of lime.

Lime mortar gradually begins to heat up to 150 degrees, boil, hiss and splash with greasy, hot drops. Boiling time is on average 8 to 30 minutes. All this time you need to stir the solution with a stick.

There is another way to prepare whitewash

Consumption of cement

To begin with, prepare a small amount of water, then dilute in it approximately 2-3 kg of pre-slaked lime. You can add another 400-500 g of dyes pre-soaked in water to the resulting composition, and 50-100 g of table salt will also do.

All components are thoroughly mixed. Water is gradually introduced into the solution, the volume is brought to 10 liters. The composition, of course, can be slightly blued with ultramarine.

There is, of course, a ready-to-use whitewash. It resembles a thick plastic mass, consisting of a synthetic binder (for example, PVA dispersion), various pigments, and various moisture-protective additives.

The consumption of such whitewash is approximately 100-300 g per 1 m2.

Ready whitewash can be diluted with water, strictly adhering to the requirements specified in the instructions. After that, the mixture is well mixed to obtain a plastic homogeneous substance.

Such a composition is applied to the ceiling in approximately 1-3 layers. Naturally, the more layers, the higher the whitewash consumption.

Lime prepared for whitewashing

For the purpose of precaution and individual protection, it is necessary to wear special goggles, canvas suit, gloves. then your actions will be:

1. Immediately use slaked lime is not recommended. It must be kept for at least 15-30 days with the lid closed (possibly in the cellar). Such a solution will perfectly cope with all its functions, lie down evenly and disinfect the surface;
2. The question is often asked about what is added to lime for whitewashing. Let's look at fluff. For whitewashing, fluff is diluted with water to the desired consistency. For whitewashing, the required density can be easily found out. Water is gradually added to the solution and checked with a stick. An even, dense white shade remains on the stick;
3. Lime dough is prepared according to a similar principle. But water in relation to lime is shaved in a much smaller amount. For 1 part of lumpy clay, 40% of cold water is added to the container. Water is added carefully and gradually so that all the lumps have the opportunity to dissolve, hiss. This dough is used for various construction work- masonry, plaster.

Whitewashing the ceilings gives the entire surface a snow-white appearance. Before the start of whitewashing are carried out preparatory work. First leveling, and then plastering.

In order for the lime whitewash to be applied evenly, without any unnecessary gaps and streaks, the prepared consistency should be applied in 2 mutually perpendicular directions, so the layers will cross each other. Whitewash, as a rule, with a brush or roller.

The advantages of such whitewashing include low cost related materials and ease of operation. We can say that the work can be done by a slightly trained master. The disadvantages include fragility.

On average, the coating lasts about two years, then it begins to lose its aesthetic appearance. However, if the appearance of the coating is lost, the coating can be re-coated, which does not require much time.

Whitewash consumption

For example, 0.5 liters of liquid whitewash may be enough for 1 m2 of prepared surface. Although such an expense is possible only if you previously could have at least a little experience in handling a brush and whitewash.

If you want to avoid unwanted overspending, then practice applying whitewash. Otherwise, you risk damaging windows and furniture, and instead of 0.5 liters, spend as much as 1.5 liters or more. The expense will be quite impressive.

Whitewashing is a process that does not take haste. The more carefully you whitewash the ceiling, the more elegant it will look.

Tips and secrets for painters. How to whitewash walls and ceilings quickly and efficiently.

Before whitewashing, the ceiling and walls must be cleaned of rusty and other stains, as well as old whitewash, all cracks and irregularities are sealed on them, and then primed.

Before whitewashing, wash off rusty spots and streaks with water, and then treat these places with a solution of copper sulphate (50 ... 100 g of vitriol per 1 liter of boiling water).

Grease stains are removed with a hot 2% solution of soda ash (a clean white rag is moistened with a solution and applied to the stain until it disappears completely). Then the treated surface is thoroughly washed with water.

Smoked ceilings, and walls, are wiped with a 2 ... 3% hydrochloric acid solution.

To seal cracks and other similar defects on the ceiling and walls, putty will be required. To obtain an uncomplicated and reliable putty, mix gypsum, chalk and diluted wood glue, taken in a ratio of 1:2:2 (by weight). Recall that for the preparation of the liquid component of the putty, 30 ... 50 g of glue is dissolved in 1 liter of water.

Sufficiently high-quality putty can be made according to another recipe. Here, 2.5 kg of lime dough (slaked lime of thick consistency) is diluted in 5 liters of water, then 50 ... 100 g of ordinary table salt dissolved in hot water is added to the lime, after which the amount of water in the mixture is adjusted to 10 liters, not forgetting to mix this mixture thoroughly. It remains to strain the future putty through a fine sieve and add to it 1.5 liters of 10% wood glue with chalk powder mixed in it (150 ... 200 g). Putty of this composition is also successfully used for priming surfaces.

Putty is applied to the surface, usually by hand with a spatula.

The cleaned and puttied surfaces of the ceiling and walls are covered with a primer prepared either according to the recipe for the above putty, or, according to another recipe, based on slaked lime. In the latter case, they take 3 kg of hydrated lime of a pasty consistency, 200 g of laundry soap and 50 ... 100 g of Oxol drying oil. Cut the soap into thin shavings, dissolve in 3 liters of hot water, add drying oil. Separately, in 4 and water, dilute the lime. Mix both primer solutions ready. Just do not forget to dilute it with water before use to a total volume of 10 ... 11 liters.

As you know, the purpose of applying a primer to a surface is to create an even, thin, smooth film on this surface, through which the paint would not penetrate, which will allow the latter to lie on the surface in an even layer and dry evenly.

So, the primer is carefully applied to the required surfaces with a brush, roller or spray gun. And when it dries, you can proceed to the actual whitewashing.

Usually, chalk whitewash for the ceiling and walls is prepared as follows: 30 g of wood glue and 3 kg of sifted chalk are dissolved in 5 liters of preheated to 40 ... 50 Vaults.

Good quality chalk whitewash will provide a composition that includes 2.3 kg of chalk, 90 g of wood glue, 17 g of blue (ultramarine), 60 g of laundry soap and 3 ... 4 liters of water (this amount of whitewash is enough to paint 10 m2 of surface ). Remember that if the ceiling or walls have been whitewashed with lime, chalk whitewash should not be used, as dirty stains and stains will appear on the ceiling.

Here is a recipe for a lime whitewash composition: 2 ... 3 kg of slaked lime are diluted in a small amount of water, 400 ... 500 g of dyes pre-soaked in water are added, as well as 50 ... 100 g of table salt or 150 ... alum. All components are thoroughly mixed and, gradually adding water, bring the volume of whitewash to 10 liters. It is better to slightly blue the resulting composition with ultramarine or blue.

You should not force the drying of whitewash, so as not to spoil the work. Do not make drafts, and if straight lines penetrate into a freshly whitewashed room Sun rays, darken the windows.

Despite the abundance of modern finishing materials, lime and chalk are still used for whitewashing walls, especially in areas remote from the city, that is, in villages and urban-type settlements. Where you can often see white sheds, houses and, of course, stoves. Although urban residents do not disdain these materials, using them for whitewashing ceilings in bathrooms. And even in hospitals, schools in our time, you can find this way of finishing the surfaces of walls and ceilings.

• Chalk or lime.
• How to extinguish lime.
• How to breed lime.

Chalk or lime

What is lime anyway? Lime is a material obtained by burning carbonate rocks. Lime has found practical application both in construction and for the production of various chemical compounds. For whitewashing surfaces, powdered lime is mixed with water. To positive qualities material include the following:

• Availability and low price.
• Antibacterial.
• Does not lose properties with temperature changes.
• Moisture resistant.
• Penetrates into small cracks.
• Has good adhesion with many materials.

However, there are also disadvantages to lime. This is:

• When whitewashing, stains and stains occur.
• When working with lime, care must be taken not to get burned.

Chalk, which is natural material, is also popular and is used for whitewashing walls. Advantages of chalk:

• Cheapness and availability.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Very good whiteness.
• It just rinses off the surface.
• Safe at work.

• Loses its properties in a humid environment.
• When working with chalk, certain skills are needed, otherwise spots, bubbles, etc. cannot be avoided.

As can be seen from the comparative characteristics, lime and chalk for whitewashing have their own priority of use.

How to slake lime

If you decide to stop at lime for squirrel walls, you need to be able to properly prepare it by quenching. Lime is sold in retail chains in two versions: slaked in the form of powder (or dough) and quicklime in the form of lumps. Slaked lime can be immediately dissolved with water and used for its intended purpose, but the quicklime analogue will have to be quenched first.

The most important thing in this process is to protect yourself from the harmful effects of lime, when extinguished, gases harmful to human health are released. What should be done:

• In addition to clothing, be sure to wear gloves.
• Protect your eyes with special glasses (buy in a store).
• It must be remembered that lime is quenched only in a metal container.
• Work must be done outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.
• If during the extinguishing process, nevertheless, part of the lime gets on the skin, it is necessary to rinse the problem area with water for 15–20 minutes, and then consult a doctor.

After taking the above measures, you can begin to slake lime. As a result of quenching and depending on the amount of water, powder can be obtained ( fluff) or lime dough.

To produce powder water is added in proportions of 1: 1, that is, if you take 1 kg of lime, then you need to use 1 liter of water. Water should be cold and clean. The reaction occurs with hissing and splashing, the temperature of the mixture rises to +50 ºС. However, after about forty minutes everything calms down and after the evaporation of water a powder is formed, which must be mixed with a clean wooden stick.

To receive lime dough the mixture should consist of one part lime and three parts water (1:3). The process is similar to the first one with the only difference that water is added gradually and is also gradually mixed. After the excess moisture has evaporated, the expected product will be obtained.

In conclusion, we can say that the powder is used to prepare a whitewash solution, and the “dough” is used to prepare a solution and to strengthen cement-sand mixtures used for plastering.

How to breed lime

There are two ways to dilute slaked lime for whitewashing surfaces.

Method Ν1: take 400 g of powder, add 6 liters of water, 5 g of salt and a teaspoon of drying oil. All this is thoroughly mixed and filtered through a sieve. If you want a bluish tint, add 25g ultramarine.

Method Ν2: For 3 kg of dough, 10 liters of water and 100 g of table salt are used. Further, the process becomes a little more complicated: the dough is diluted only in half the water to obtain milk of lime, the salt is separately stirred in 1 liter of hot water and added to the milk. All this is thoroughly mixed and then increased to a volume of 10 liters by adding water.

How to whiten? You can manually use a special brush or roller, or you can use a spray gun, but in any case, you must first prepare the walls for whitewashing.

The process takes place in two stages: the application of the first layer, and after it dries - the second. It is preferable to work in the evening hours or in cloudy weather. This is done so that the liquid does not evaporate so quickly and the layer is more durable.

Fluffy lime is the very material whose application we will consider in the article, that is, we will tell you how to extinguish and apply it correctly. For the initial intermediate, quenching is mandatory. This is necessary so that during contact with moisture, the finished structure does not fall apart. Let's try to understand the manufacturing process and the features of this material.

Pushonka lime (slaked lime)

Fluffy lime is an extremely fine white powder, the production of which is associated with lime slaking.

AT original form Lime is chaotic lumps, lime is slaked most often in the factory by mixing with a small amount of water.

Upon receipt of slaked lime (fluff), its volumes increase significantly (about 100% increase). The resulting material has a bulk density of about 400 kg / m³, and a moisture content of not more than 5%.

The work of damping can be performed during construction, or it can be centralized. During centralized quenching, a combination is made with the unquenched wet ground particles, in this process quality is improved and yield is increased.

During construction, lime slaking is carried out using special installations, which are called well-known hydrators. These apparatuses are loaded with approximately one third (the value of the average thickness of the lime layer should be approximately 10 cm), since when the lime is slaked, the volumes of the substance will approximately double.

In addition, quicklime (fluff) is poured relatively large volumes water, since the quenching occurs within a short period of time. This is done to avoid overheating and boiling of water. However, if the quenching of the mixture is carried out gradually, water is added in small doses and constantly monitored so that the lime does not cool.

The amount of lime in one kilogram is converted into lime paste, with a volume of 2 liters. However, this is an average, and much depends on the quality of the lime. The result of lime slaking is called "dough yield". Therefore, fluff lime is the only binder that passes into a powdery state, not due to the grinding process, but when slaked with water.

Lime whitewash (how to cook)

More recently, chalk or lime whitewash was used for residential premises. Today, these materials are being squeezed out of living spaces with water-based paint, however, if you don't want to overpay or need whitewashing of an industrial facility, then limewash is a great solution.

Lime whitewash is commonly used to whitewash facades or industrial premises. Surface finishing with it is a cheap and simple method.

Lime whitewash is not washed away by rain. This material excellent for high humidity areas, however, it is best to refrain from using it in cellars for storing vegetables, where humidity is maintained at 10%-20%.

Lime whitewash can be applied over concrete, brick, plaster and wood surfaces.

Before lime whitewashing, the surface should be prepared, dust, dirt, and easily resolved areas should be removed from it, if the facade has cracks, they should be repaired with cement mortar or cement putty.

In the room itself, it is better to seal large cracks with lime mortar, and small ones with putty.

Lime whitewash also has disinfectant bactericidal properties, this is the reason for the absence of fungi, bugs, bedbugs and different bacteria. For this reason, it is often applied to tree trunks.

If you purchase unslaked lime, it must be repaid. To do this, lime is poured into a metal or enameled container, poured with cold water and stirred. During the extinguishing process, the lime mortar boils and splashes, for this reason, during these works, goggles, a respirator and rubber gloves.

The composition of the lime mortar

Lime whitewash is prepared in a ratio of one to three with water. To make the whitewash stronger, add table salt in a ratio of 1 g per 10 liters, drying oil (3 tbsp. L). To give the whitewash the desired color, use ultramarine, red lead or ocher. Ready lime whitewash is filtered using a sieve, gauze or nylon stocking.

Lime whitewash is applied with a brush, fur roller or with a spray gun. If a spray gun is used, the lime whitewash must be filtered again. The density of the whitewash is checked with a wooden stick, if the lime whitewash does not linger on the stick, then the whitewash is rare and requires the addition of lime. If a thick layer of whitewash remains on the stick, then it is too thick and requires the addition of water. A sign of the normal composition of the whitewash is the full coverage of the stick with a slow drain of the solution.

Before applying the lime whitewash, the substrate must be wetted with water. Whitewashing is carried out in two stages, the application of the second layer can be done on top of the first one that has not yet dried. If the whitewash is applied with a spray gun, then in the process you should perform circular movements with a fishing rod.

If a brush or roller is used to apply whitewash, then the first layer is applied with horizontal movements, and the second with vertical ones. When applying lime whitewash to the surface of the ceiling, the first layer is applied perpendicular to the light, and the second - parallel to the light.

Remember that lime can burn you. Use goggles, a respirator, rubber gloves.
Well, that's all with the tricks of lime whitewashing.

Whitewashing the ceiling with lime (use of slaked lime)

This type of finish is characterized by a long service life, and is applied to various surfaces. For this reason, when choosing a way to finish the ceiling, many people stop at the lime coating.

Be careful! Lime whitewash should not be applied to rusty or greasy surfaces.
Consider step by step how the ceiling is whitewashed with lime mortar:

• Substrate preparation for lime finish. The surface of the ceiling should be primed and puttied. Before applying lime mortar, the surface must be clean and sound.
• Lime mortar preparation. To prepare a solution for two and a half square meters of space, you need slaked lime (0.4 kg) and water (0.6 l). In order for the solution to be durable and waterproof, drying oil (0.3 tablespoons) and table salt (5 g) should be added to it. Next, the resulting mixture should be mixed well in a metal container and filtered with a sieve to get rid of lumps and impurities. To give the solution a bluish tint, add ultramarine (20 - 25 g) to it.
• Applying lime to the ceiling. The surface of the ceiling should be slightly moistened, and then apply 2 layers of whitewash. The application of the second layer is carried out on top of the first, which has not yet dried. These actions will make whitewashing more durable.

Important point! The application of lime whitewash on the ceiling at elevated temperatures is not desirable, therefore, in the heat it is better not to whitewash the ceiling with lime.

Now, a few words about the moments that affect the quality of whitewashing the ceiling.

Lime whitewash can be made stronger by carbonizing it (saturating it with carbon dioxide). To create the right conditions for this process Moisture should remain in the whitewash for some time. For this reason, a prerequisite for applying lime whitewash is the moisture content of the ceiling surface. In addition, in order to ensure the normal crystallization of whitewash, its composition must include table salt, which makes it possible for additional moisture from the environment to accumulate in the composition of the lime film.

Comfort and coziness in a living space depend on many factors, including the condition of the ceiling. In some cases, it becomes necessary to repair cracks in the ceiling between the plates or small cracks on its surface. You can do this yourself by choosing one of the seven methods proposed in this article.

Causes of cracks in the ceiling

Before proceeding with any repair work in an apartment or house, a thorough inspection of the walls and, in particular, the ceiling for the presence of various cracks, defects and irregularities should be carried out. This need is caused not only by aesthetic needs. Deep cracks in the ceiling or gaps between concrete slabs can have serious consequences.

The main causes of cracks include:

• Building settlement;
• Non-compliance with technologies in the process of construction or repair;
• Low quality building materials;
• Sharp temperature changes.

If cracks in the ceiling began to appear in a newly built house due to its shrinkage, then it is not recommended to immediately carry out work to eliminate them, since the structure will continue to deform. The best option would be to carry out repair work 3-4 years after its commissioning.

Ceiling diagnostics and determination of the nature of damage

Diagnosis of the ceiling begins with a thorough examination of its entire surface. The presence of even small cracks in the plaster can be a sign of deeper damage, therefore, if all noticeable defects are identified, the nature of the damage to the ceiling should be determined. To do this, it is necessary to partially remove the facing material around the detected crack with a spatula or a special brush. Next, you need to carefully examine the surface of the ceiling adjacent to the crack, since the detected damage can occupy a larger area than during the primary visual inspection. In this case, you should completely clean the ceiling covering over the entire area of ​​damage.

Another indicator of the degree of deformation is the depth of the gap. If this indicator does not exceed 1 centimeter, then the crack is considered shallow and can be repaired with some kind of filler. A gap depth greater than 1 centimeter indicates a more serious deformity. In order to repair it on your own, you will need a much larger amount of work and materials.

Method 1: Decorate the cracks

The simplest and fast way getting rid of cracks, and at the same time from irregularities on the ceiling, is to glue the ceiling with special polystyrene boards. This material allows you to hide both small cracks and deeper cracks and differences in the surface of the ceiling. Ceiling tiles they are inexpensive, stick well and give the ceiling a feeling of novelty.

Tiles on the ceiling must be glued in such a way that the joints between them are not in the places of damage. In order for the ceiling to appear even and for the tiles to hold securely and not peel off, cracks and irregularities must be completely hidden under their surface. However, we should not forget that this method only masks the flaws, but does not solve the problem of damage to the concrete ceiling.

Method 2: Seal the cracks with a cloth

Another way to easily repair both small and fairly deep cracks and joints between the plates is to seal them with fabric strips. Despite its apparent simplicity, this is one of the oldest and most proven ways to repair the ceiling. A properly made fabric “patch” lasts for years and prevents the crack from growing further.

Sealing a crack with a cloth is performed in several stages:

• The edges of the crack are cleaned from the ceiling covering along its entire length and washed with water.
• A reinforcing fabric strip is made. For this purpose, both a special serpentine ribbon and any natural fabric - linen, cotton or gauze - are suitable. The material is cut in such a way that the strip is 2-3 centimeters wider than the crack.
• The strip is wetted with PVA glue or starch paste, squeezed out, applied to a dry crack and straightened.
• It is recommended to putty the dried and hardened strip, carefully smoothing the surface with a spatula.

After drying, the putty layer is cleaned with sandpaper and wiped off dust.

Method 3: Fill cracks with putty

Spot plastering of the ceiling is traditional method, most often used if necessary, to repair cracks before whitewashing. Puttying the entire surface allows not only to hide the cracks, but also to level the ceiling, preparing it for any finishing work.

The process of sealing cracks begins with cleaning them with a brush to remove the exfoliated parts of the coating. Next, the surface is washed with water, and after it dries, it is treated with a deep penetration primer. After that, a putty solution is made and applied to the cracks so that they are filled with the solution throughout the entire depth. Then the putty layer is leveled with a spatula either pointwise, around the cracks, or over the entire surface of the ceiling.

After applying the first layer, the surface dries for 24 hours, then it is cleaned with sandpaper. Depending on the nature of the damage to the ceiling, one to several layers of putty may be required, with each subsequent layer being applied only after the previous one has completely dried.

Method 4: gypsum mortar

Gypsum plaster is another proven method for fixing cracked concrete ceilings. Gypsum mortar is sold in the form of dry mixes and contains mineral components. Sometimes, instead of a gypsum mortar, synthetic compounds are used, which are more expensive.

Their use allows not only to repair the crack, but also to protect the surface of the ceiling from its re-formation.

A gypsum mortar is made by mixing the powder with water in the proportion specified by the manufacturer. Like putty, gypsum plaster applied to the cleaned and primed surface in several layers with complete drying of each layer. For maximum alignment of the ceiling, it is recommended to use a reinforcing mesh.

Method 5: sealant

In some cases, the appearance of cracks and cracks in the ceiling is associated with leakage, therefore, to seal them, a material with good waterproofing properties is needed. Such a material is a sealant, which, after hardening, resembles rubber in its structure. It has good penetrating power and has a service life of more than 10 years.

In order to fill the gap with sealant, you must use a special gun. The sealant hardly expands, so after it hardens, it will not be necessary to remove significant excess material. The sealant is applied over the entire surface of the crack, then the frozen protruding layer is cut off with a knife, after which the gap is sealed with a fabric strip and covered with putty or plaster.

Method 6: placeholder

It is possible to cover up rather large and deep cracks with sealant, but this will require a significant consumption of material. In this case, it is much more efficient to use other types of filler, which can reduce repair costs and use materials of different properties.

The most popular placeholders include:

• Mounting foam.
• Natural fabric strips.
• Special polyurethane foam filler.

Method 7: deep cracks between the plates

The appearance of deep gaps between the plates is a serious problem in a panel house. Such cracks are fraught with large heat losses and the risk of further deformation, and therefore require special repairs. First, the gap between the plates is cleared of the ceiling covering and the old leveling layer. Then the crack is expanded using a percussion tool with a special nozzle and processed along the edges with a knife or spatula.

Further, the inner surface of the gap is treated with a primer and filled with mounting foam. After it dries, the excess foam is cut off, and the seam is smeared with a building mixture using a reinforcing mesh.

Before proceeding with the elimination of such defects, it is necessary to isolate the room and lay the floor ...

There is a big crack in the ceiling, what should I do? The main thing is not to panic. To start you need to isolate the room and cover the floor. It is also necessary to cover all the furniture with a film. Then you need prepare workers materials and tools. The tools used are:

- primer;
- putty;
- putty knife ;
- roller;
- block with a grout mesh or sandpaper.

Light ceiling - a classic of the genre

Step one: clearing the crack zone.

Using a spatula, remove from the cracked surface all parts that are weakly attached and may fall off over time. It will be easier to clean damaged areas from old putty, chalk or paint if they are moistened with water.

After finishing work, wipe the cleaned places with a damp cloth. This will allow you to easily get rid of dust, as well as to detect and eliminate hidden peeling plaster.

Tip : For work it is better to choose two spatulas : narrow and wide . A small spatula is more convenient to clean small cracks.

Step two: priming the cleaned surface.

While the processed surface dries up , prepare soil solution . Primer - a mixture of film-forming substance and coloring pigment. Its use is mandatory because it improves the quality of the coating: repair materials are better bonded, and the protective layer prevents the penetration of moisture. The solution is applied to the site of damage in several layers. In the case of cracks, two are usually sufficient. Before applying each next layer, the previous one must dry.

Tip: Porous surfaces and irregularities larger than 3 mm are best treated with a deep penetration primer.

Step three: applying putty to the cracks.

Ceiling gaps require a minimum of two coats of filler. To strengthen the surface, first apply the starting putty - it coarse the structure has adhesive properties and increases the bonding of materials.

Puttying is carried out in the following order : press the spatula with a small amount of the mixture to the cleaned place and with a confident movement stretch along the entire length of the crack . Pressing will allow the putty to evenly penetrate into the depth of the defect. The fresh layer must not exceed 4 mm, otherwise flaws cannot be avoided. Apply all the following layers after the first one only after the previous ones have completely cured.

Tip: If a dry composition is used for work, then it must be diluted in portions - it retains a workable consistency for only a few hours.

Step four: rubbing out irregularities.

When the work surface is completely dry, you can proceed to the last step - rubbing flaws. This will help block for grinding, which is attached to a special grid or sandpaper. Start small refurbished cracks to gain experience to work on large areas. If you plan to cover the ceiling with chalk, paint or other finishing material after eliminating defects, the surface should be rubbed to perfect smoothness.

Tip: When sanding a thin layer of putty, do not be too zealous, otherwise you can erase it completely.

Prevention of cracks

In order not to ask yourself the question of a crack in the ceiling, what to do in the future, you need to think about it today. P Prevention is better than repair. So that cracks do not appear on the new ceiling, several basic conditions must be observed:

one . Apply the plaster only on the cleaned and dry ceiling.

2. To prevent the formation and Spread cracks, use a painting reinforcing mesh (serpyanka).

3 . For filling internal surfaces, it is better to use gypsum mixtures.

Sometimes, after repairs, cracks appear on a perfectly flat ceiling. There can be many reasons for this, but if their consequences are not eliminated immediately, the problem will worsen and entail large financial and time costs. Practical recommendations from experienced craftsmen and step-by-step instructions for eliminating ceiling gaps will help prevent the formation of defects or repair existing cracks in the ceiling without the involvement of specialists.

Reasons for the formation of cracks

Whitewashing the ceiling is still considered one of the most popular types of finishes. Environmental friendliness , availability and simplicity of work are priorities in its choice . But often through short time after whitewashing, the ideal surface is covered with a network of cracks. There may be several reasons for this "trouble":

- drawdown of the building;

- low-quality materials;

- violation of ceiling finishing technology;

- a sharp temperature drop;

- Repair work at the neighbors.

Of course , you can find a specialist who will diagnose the problem , fix everything and charge you a big bill . But you can do it on your own. Guided by the advice of professionals, even a beginner, whose hands are created exclusively for the keyboard or piano, can repair the crack. The question of a crack in the ceiling what to do can be considered closed.

Crack in the ceiling what to do

The question of how to overcome cracks and other defects that eventually appear on the ceiling is asked by everyone who has an apartment or a private house. A crack, even a small one, can ruin appearance any room and to fix it you need to make serious efforts. The quality of sealing ceiling cracks will depend on the choice of building materials and the conscientiousness of the master ...

It should be noted that the type of ceiling crack can be completely different and most often depends on the material. ceiling surface. Most often, defects are found on the ceiling after walking floors, even more often they appear as a result of poor-quality finishing of the rough surface. Also, the nature and possibility of the appearance of cracks on the ceiling depend on the quality of the plaster, as well as on the general level of technology - the main thing is to calmly ask yourself the question of a crack on the ceiling, what to do and not to panic. It is possible to repair even a large crack on the ceiling surface on your own.

Removing a crack in the ceiling

There are several ways to repair a crack that has appeared on any ceiling surface. The main thing is to work carefully and follow the technology.

Decorating a crack - this method of eliminating cracks involves the use of various types of ceilings. To decorate a crack, you need to use a patch. You can take it from a stretch or false ceiling. Crack decoration is used only in cases where it is not possible to eliminate the resulting crack by other methods.

Spot type puttying - is performed only in cases where the crack has small size and has nothing to do with floor movement. Spot puttying to eliminate cracks is performed only in the area where the defect has formed.

Removing a crack on plasterboard ceilings - you can remove a crack on a plasterboard ceiling by filling all existing joints. Defects occur on ceilings of this type, most often as a result of a change or violation of the installation technology.

Removal of large ceiling cracks - if the cracks appeared as a result of the fact that the slabs were laid without following the technology, or in those cases when their appearance is associated with the settlement of the building. In any case, you need to close them with special mounting materials.

Peeling plaster requires more thorough approach. This is also true in cases of peeling of the paint coating - in this case, it will be necessary to completely remove all defective areas of the ceiling surface. Only after this does the so-called filling of voids occur. Before doing all the manipulations, you need to make sure that part of the plaster (or other coating) has really come off. To do this, tap the area around the crack with a wooden stick. If the sound has a soft and empty rumble, then the coating has really peeled off - a crack in the ceiling needs to be repaired.

When asking yourself the question of a crack in the ceiling, what to do, you need to start by preparing the necessary tools to eliminate the defect. Before starting repair work, you need to carefully look at the ceiling covering and assess the depth of the crack, as well as understand the state of the current plaster. After preliminary estimate finished, you need to prepare tools for repairing ceiling cracks.

These include:

• Spray
• Cerisit mix
• Storage tank
• Armnet
• Construction spatulas
• Primer deep
• Technical fillers

If there is no Cerisit mixture, you can use any dry gypsum-type mixture or make your own from the necessary components.

So, we proceed to a phased solution to the issue of a crack on the ceiling, what to do. The first step is to remove the loose plaster. It is removed until the moment when strong layers are found. If the crack in the ceiling is deep enough, and these are most often formed as a result of the movement of floor slabs, the following phased work plan must be followed:

• Clean the defective area from worn plaster
• Clean the defective area from worn putty
• Clean the defective area from worn decorative cladding

Then it is required to rid the crack between the plasterboard ceiling from the arm tape (sometimes the so-called serpyanka is used). Cleaning is done with a sharpened knife. First you need to remove the chamfer from all edges of adjacent ceiling slabs. All serviced surfaces must be pre-cleaned - this work is done with a spray gun. As a result, the surface of the ceiling should be clean and dust-free, without traces of dirt. Cleaning is necessary as putty mortars are produced on plaster base. That is why the putty mixture has a low level of adhesion in relation to a dry surface. If the dust is not removed from the surface of the ceiling, then it is very likely that after the crack is repaired, exactly the same crack may appear, and in a fairly short time.

We continue to work. All open cracks must be carefully filled with putty. This is done with a spatula. First you need to rub it in with considerable effort to ensure that the voids are completely filled. It should be noted that all the remaining mixture must be removed with a spatula. Then carefully and evenly you need to level the area around the defect. The next step is drying. The surface of the ceiling is dried for at least several hours, but within 20 hours it is necessary to putty the repaired crack. All areas near the defect must be sanded with sandpaper. As a result, it is necessary that the surface of the ceiling in the repaired area has a smooth and even character. All irregularities must be removed and repaired. The final step is painting the ceiling. Finishing by other methods is allowed.

How to repair deep and large cracks in the ceiling

Most often, the above defects occur in new buildings. This happens as a result of the movement of floors and for reasons of general shrinkage of the house. The pre-prepared ceiling surface must be dry. The crack is filled with building foam mounting type. If not, then you can use other materials, such as building sealant. It is also allowed to use rags for these purposes - but you should first soak it well in an aqueous emulsion of polyvinyl acetate, in other words - in PVA. Ceiling cracks must be carefully filled with construction sealant. The work is done with a spatula. At the same time, it is important to remove in time all the newly formed excess mixture that enters the near-fracture space.

It should be noted that cleaning of the surface can take place only after the complete hardening of the repaired surface. Cleaning is carried out with a sharpened knife and continues until absolute smoothness is achieved. It should be noted that the building mounting foam during the final shrinkage can significantly increase in size, in other words, expand. Thus, she is able to fill all the voids without additional manipulations of the master. All work must be carried out taking into account the attached instructions, since many manufacturers have features that apply to one or another mounting foam. After filling the crack, you need to wait about 20 hours for the foam to set. After final drying, excess material must be removed with sharp knife. Then, right flush, you need to carefully level the restored ceiling area and the entire space around the crack.

Often the stretch ceiling will have to be "cut" to gain access to the necessary communications.

Thus, the question of a crack in the ceiling, what to do, is practically resolved. The last steps are to moisten the ceiling surface. Also, first you need to completely clean the layer in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe crack and apply the finishing putty. Along the way, a thin layer is leveled with a spatula right during application. Then you need to let the repaired area dry for at least a day. The final step is sanding. This is done until the maximum possible smoothness of the ceiling surface is achieved. Lastly, the pre-existing ceiling finish is restored.

In all those cases when cracks and other defects in the ceiling are formed due to peeling of the paint, as well as as a result of the settling of the plaster, it is necessary to put an additional layer of primer on the cleaned area, having previously moistened the repair site with water. Then a layer of putty is applied and the recess is filled. All manipulations are done flush - according to existing coverage. It is most convenient to perform this operation using a rule. If the latter is not available, a construction spatula will do - the main thing is that it be wide enough. With the help of it, work is carried out throughout the repaired area at once.

It happens that the recess has an impressive depth. In this case, it will have to be filled in several approaches, but not forgetting to dry each old layer before applying a new one. Finishing stage grouting with an appropriate mixture of all ceiling cracks present. Such work is done only in cases where they were discovered - the work is carried out by applying a thin plaster layer and simultaneously leveling it. After the final drying of the repair site, it must be carefully sanded. At the very end, the crack removal site is painted.

We continue to answer the question of a crack in the ceiling what to do. All existing cracks between GCR sheets must be filled with putty. Previously, the existing chamfer is removed from the sheets. After filling with putty mixture, you need to level the repair site. Then the work takes place in the following order - an arm mesh is placed on the seam and a mixture of the finishing type is already applied to it. If there is no reinforcing mesh, you can use an ordinary sickle instead. After the finish mixture has dried, and this is at least 24 hours, it is necessary to apply a primer in two layers. Then the resulting surface is puttied with the finishing composition of the mixture and this is done as thinly as possible. Then the surface is leveled - carefully and carefully. Then it dries again. The final step is sanding, which occurs until the surface acquires a perfectly smooth state.

Other ways to fix cracks in the ceiling

There are also cases in which it is not possible to repair a ceiling crack using the above technology. Then you need to close the crack in another way. This is done using a patch sticker from a decor tile. The latter is most often produced from the so-called expanded polystyrene. To calculate the required amount of material, you need to make a drawing of the ceiling to scale. Then a linear grid is applied. This is done only with a step equal to the dimensions of the tile, but only on an appropriate scale.

It is possible to replace the stove in case of its absence with a glass canvas, which is subsequently painted. You can also use ordinary wallpaper. In all cases, one should remember about the increase in the ceiling crack - this occurs as a result of the shift of the floor slabs. An enlarged crack can not only tear the wallpaper and deform the tile, as well as any other finish, but also cause more serious consequences. That is why when repairing cracks in the ceiling, you need to take into account the final shrinkage of the building. In new multi-apartment ladies, shrinkage can even last 5 years or more. It is impractical to eliminate a crack and any other defects on the ceiling surface in cases where shrinkage is still ongoing, since such repairs will be temporary.

At the end, we offer a video that will solve the issue of a crack on the ceiling, what to do:

An untidy ceiling is always striking, but any ceiling can be put in order very quickly just by whitewashing it or painting it with water-based paint. To properly whitewash or paint walls that will delight the eye for several years, you need to determine the type of whitewashing of the walls. You can easily determine what kind of whitewash is applied to the wall or ceiling: lime, chalk or water-based. To determine the type of whitewashing of the ceiling, it is enough to wet your finger and run it along the ceiling.

• If the finger turns white, and the surface is easily worn off, then this is a chalky whitewash of the ceiling.
• If the finger does not get dirty, and the surface darkens in the place where the water from the finger hit the ceiling, then this is a lime whitewash of the ceiling.
• If the ceiling has not changed its color, then this is whitewashing the ceiling with water-based paint.

In some houses, a layer of plaster is laid on the ceiling, and then it is painted or whitewashed.

Whitewashing walls with water-based paint

In this case, the first step is to clean the ceiling where there is plaster falling off and in places where there are dirty and oil stains. If the old whitewash is in good condition but has lost color, then you can whitewash the ceiling according to old whitewash. It is not recommended to wash off the old putty and whitewash from the ceiling, as the result will be smeared dirt to which the primer adheres very poorly.

Whitewash putty can smear and get a dirty surface

In places where the plaster has fallen off, a primer is applied to the cleaned concrete ceiling in order to increase the adhesion of the plaster to concrete slab. Usually they use a whitewash primer called Betokontakt, which, when dried, creates a smooth, rough surface. The primed ceiling is left to dry for a day. Then, if a plaster layer of more than 20 mm is applied, it will be necessary to attach a reinforcing mesh to concrete ceiling. You can plaster the ceiling with a gypsum mixture or plaster mortar. With the help of plastering, the entire surface of the ceiling is leveled. If there is no plaster layer on the ceiling, then it is necessary to prepare the ceiling for whitewashing. First, they remove the old whitewash, and for this you need to remove all the furniture from the room or cover it polyethylene film. Wet with soapy water small plot ceiling and remove the old layer of whitewash from it with a brush or spatula. After cleaning the entire ceiling from the old whitewash, you need to rinse it again with a sponge.

To whitewash the ceiling with whitewash, you need to prepare the surface

If there are flaws in the ceiling in the form of cracks and potholes, then they must be covered with putty, and the joints between the plates should be sealed with sickle tape. When the putty hardens, it must be sanded with sandpaper so that the entire surface of the ceiling becomes even. To whitewash the ceiling, you need to apply a primer layer on the ceiling, which will increase the adhesion of the whitewash to the ceiling surface.
Lime whitewashing of walls and ceilings is considered the cheapest. This whitewash has good antiseptic properties. It is used mainly for whitewashing ceilings and, in rare cases, for whitewashing walls. If whitewashing is done with slaked lime, then when it dries, a strong film forms on the surface, which will protect you and your clothes from contamination when in contact with the finished surface. Lime consumption during whitewashing depends on the method of applying the mixture to the surface and on the material from which the treated surface is built. If whitewashing the walls with lime is done with an airbrush, then the lime consumption will be much less than if the same surface is whitewashed with a brush. If the mixture is applied to a brick wall, then the approximate consumption of whitewash per 1 m2 will be 0.5 liters.

Fluff should be diluted in water and whitewashed on the ceiling

Lime for whitewashing in stores is sold slaked and not slaked. Slaked whitewash is sold in the form of a lime paste, as well as in the form of a powder called fluff. Not slaked lime is sold in the form of pebbles that need to be quenched, that is, to prepare lime for whitewashing. Extinguish lime for whitewashing with water. Lime dough is diluted with water in a ratio of 2.5 liters of water per 1 kg of dough. From 1 kg of quicklime, 10 liters of whitewash mixture are obtained quicklime. First you need to extinguish the lime for whitewashing by pouring it with water in a ratio of 1: 1 and as a result you will get a powder into which if you add 2 times more water then you get lime dough. This dough should rest for 2 weeks. When the lime dough settles, it is diluted with water and blue is added. You can also whitewash the ceiling with lime with your own hands and make the mixture yourself for this. You can prepare whitewash for a ceiling of 10 sq.m as follows, pour 1.7 kg of lime into warm water, mix thoroughly and to strengthen white shade add 30 grams of blue for whitewashing.

Whitewashing the walls with chalk

You can whitewash the ceiling with chalk with your own hands, only for this you have to make the mixture yourself. Chalk paste for whitewashing 10 sq.m of the ceiling is prepared as follows, pour 30 g of carpentry or PVA glue into warm water, mix thoroughly and add 3 kg of finely ground chalk, and add 20 g of blue to enhance the white tint. Whitewashing the ceiling with chalk is also considered cheap and in a simple way wall and ceiling finishes. Previously, whitewash chalk was crushed, but nowadays it can be bought in powder or paste form. In appearance, crushed chalk is gray, but if you dilute whitewash chalk with water, it turns white. Chalk can be stored for years and therefore it can be bought with a margin, diluted at any time and the ceiling whitewashed with chalk. Before you start mixing dry chalk with water, you need to sift the chalk to remove all large particles that can spoil the appearance of the whitewash.

Water emulsion can be painted over whitewash

Water-based paint for whitewashing is sold in a very thick consistency and therefore it must be diluted with water before application. Water emulsion can be used to paint ceilings after whitewashing or instead of whitewashing. If you want to create a relief surface, then it is better to use an undiluted water-based emulsion. By applying color for whitewashing, you can give the water emulsion any color. Painting with water-based paint for whitewashing can be applied with a brush or spray gun. For whitewashing a small surface with water-based paint, a brush about 10 cm wide with natural bristles is suitable.
It is necessary to whitewash the ceiling with whitewash in two layers, the first layer is applied along the windows, and the second layer is applied from the windows into the interior of the room. If the ceiling is being painted by whitewashing, then you need to wait a bit for the whitewash to set, and then with the help of sandpaper you need to make the surface of the whitewash smooth. Painting on whitewash is done with a brush, roller or spray gun.

Preparing the ceiling for whitewashing

Water-based paint should be applied to the ceiling starting from the corners and joints of the ceiling with the walls. The last layer of water-based paint should be applied in the direction from the windows to the inside of the room. You can apply a water-based emulsion to whitewash, but first you need to go over it with sandpaper.

There are many options for finishing the ceiling, but whitewash is the most popular of them. It is inexpensive and looks very good if the paint has been applied correctly. Usually the ceiling is recommended to be thoroughly cleaned of the old layer of lime or chalk before applying a new one. However you can put the next coat of paint and directly on top of the old one. The main thing is to know how to do it in order to guarantee a good result. There is nothing complicated here - having the necessary knowledge, anyone can handle it on their own, without spending all necessary work a lot of time.

How to whitewash the ceiling?

• chalk;
• lime;
• water-based paint.

Each of these options has its pros and cons.

Table. Materials for whitewashing the ceiling.

Material	Advantages	disadvantages
	Chalk gives the ceiling an exceptional, radiant whiteness, so the room will look very good.	This material gradually crumbles, thus, additional dust appears in the room. In addition, it is not waterproof, so it is not suitable for painting the ceiling in the bathroom.
	Lime whitewash kills the fungus, so in rooms where it is present, it is worth using it. In addition, lime is resistant to moisture and is well suited for painting the ceiling in any room, including the bathroom (and this is where the fungus can be found most often). In addition, lime whitewash hides small surface defects, sealing cracks and cracks.	Lime quite often causes allergic reactions. It cannot be perfectly white, unlike a chalky solution.
	This type of paint has an excellent appearance, while it is the water-based emulsion that fits very well on the old coating, it adheres perfectly to the existing whitewash and does not begin to peel off over time.	Water-based paint has only one drawback - it is necessary to carry out work with its use at a temperature not lower than + 5 ° C, but this does not matter when painting the ceiling in a room.

If you do not want to wash off the old whitewash, you need to keep in mind that lime cannot be applied to the chalk and vice versa - otherwise the paint will not lie well, dirty stains will form on the ceiling.

On top of the chalk, you can put a new layer of chalk or water-based paint, and lime can be covered with the same emulsion or lime. At the same time, it must be borne in mind that enamel and oil paint are absolutely not suitable for painting over an old layer of lime or chalk.

Instruments

There are three main ways to apply whitewash for which you can use:

• roller;
• brush;
• spray.

If do roller painting, the paint will lie in an even layer, there will be no streaks or stains. In order to get a good whitewash using this tool, coloring composition will need to be applied in two layers. In addition to the roller itself, you will need a container for the solution, something for mixing and a paint tray. You also need a small brush to put paint on the sections of the ceiling at the junctions with the walls - it will not work with a roller to do this carefully without staining the walls.

Whitewash brush can be purchased at every building supply store. It is inexpensive. While brushing, the paint splashes heavily, so you need to carefully protect the furniture in the apartment, as well as your eyes.

With a sprayer whitewash can be easily applied in a very neat even layer. In the event that the paint will be applied by sprayer, care must be taken to ensure that it is free of lumps. Its consistency should be more liquid than that of whitewash, which is to be applied with a brush or roller.

How to choose water-based paint

If everything is more or less clear with chalk and lime, then choosing a suitable water-based emulsion is a more difficult task. There are many varieties of these paints, which differ in composition and properties.

1. Polyvinyl acetate water emulsion - the most affordable.
2. Paints with acrylic additives- Most Popular. They are suitable for any surface and are resistant to abrasion (although this property is not so important in the case of ceiling paint).
3. Silicone water-based paint lays well on top of the old whitewash, even without the use of a primer. It has a high vapor permeability and is perfect for painting the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen. This type of coloring composition will reliably protect the surface from the appearance of a fungus on it.
4. Water emulsion paints with latex very good water resistance, they can be washed with detergents. For the price they are superior to all other water-based emulsions.

To make the best choice Please read the label carefully before purchasing. It should indicate the purpose of the paint, the degree of its hiding power, the consumption per one square meter and other parameters to pay attention to. A correctly selected water emulsion will make it possible to make a snow-white and durable coating, it will not turn yellow over time and is guaranteed to protect the ceiling from the appearance of fungus.

Painting with water-based paint

In order to receive good painting over lime, it is better to first cover the old layer with an acrylic primer. After that, you need to check the surface for strength by trying to scratch it. If it does not crumble, then you can apply paint.

But when painting over chalk, this is not necessary - water-based paint will bind it well and will hold on even without soil.

Before starting work, you need to prepare the room. It is necessary to take out or carefully cover with a film all objects so that they do not get dirty with paint.

If you are applying paint with a brush, lay the strokes first perpendicular to the windows, then parallel. If the last layer is laid parallel to the light source, the stripes will not be visible after drying.

Painting with a roller is a simpler and more convenient process in which you need to follow these steps:

• pour the paint into the paint tray;
• dip the roller into the bath, and then roll it along the slope, evenly distributing the paint over the surface and allowing the excess to drain;
• lay the first coat of paint perpendicular to the windows;
• wait for the composition to dry completely;
• then add a second layer, which should be parallel to the window opening;
• carefully paint over the sections of the ceiling at the junctions with the walls with a brush.

It is even easier to apply paint from a sprayer - just put three even layers, you do not need to follow the direction. The main thing is not to miss a single square centimeter of the surface when applying each of them.

Chalk painting

It is not difficult to prepare a chalk solution for painting the ceiling; for this:

• for 10 liters of water you need to take 5 kg of chalk and 50 g of wood glue;
• the consistency of the solution should be such that it does not drain from the knife, but if the mixture pours from the blade, you need to add more chalk;
• you can add blue to the composition, in which case the ceiling will be snow-white, without a yellow tint.

The technology of painting with chalk is fundamentally no different from the technology of applying a water-based emulsion. First, choose one of the options - application by brush, roller or spray gun. Then, in the process of painting, do not rush and carefully make sure that the composition lays down in an even layer. In this case the new kind your ceiling is sure to please you.

Lime mortar painting

In order to make a solution of lime for painting the ceiling, you need:

• take 2.5 kg of lime, add 100 g of salt soaked in water and a small amount of blue;
• after mixing all the components of the mixture, add water to them so that the total volume is about 10 liters.

The basic application rules are the same as for chalk and water-based paint.

Important Points

When whitewashing the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the room. For example, in the bathroom you need to use special composition, which will be resistant to moisture and protect the ceiling from the appearance of fungus. Otherwise, the paint will quickly lose its appearance and may even begin to crumble quite quickly.

It is also important to keep safety in mind while painting. In order to avoid getting whitewash in the eyes, on the skin and in the respiratory tract, you need to use goggles, rubber gloves and a respirator. If this is not done, the coloring composition can cause allergies or even chemical burns.

How to wash old whitewash from the ceiling

Despite the fact that the ceiling can be painted over the old whitewash, the best option to obtain a quality paint pre-cleaning and surface leveling. Old whitewash, which does not hold well and peels off, must be washed off. If this is not done, you will not have to count on a good result. If the layer of lime or chalk that is already on the ceiling is thin, even, and holding up well, painting directly on top of it would be a good option.

In order to wash off the chalk whitewash, you must:

• take a foam sponge and moisten it in water so that it is wet, but drops do not drip;
• after that, it is necessary to run a damp sponge over the ceiling over and over again, washing off one layer after another, while it must be moistened as often as possible;
• then you need to carefully wipe the ceiling with a wet cloth - you also need to dip it in water as often as possible.

Washing off the lime layer is a little more difficult because:

• the first step is to moisten the entire ceiling; for this you can use a spray gun;
• using a spatula or scraper, it is necessary to remove the soaked layer of lime;
• and finally, you need to thoroughly wash the ceiling with a damp cloth or sponge to remove lime and dust from it.

Removal of old whitewash: a - moisten the ceiling, b - remove the soaked coating.

It is better to work in sections - while you are removing soaked lime from one of them, the other will be saturated with moisture. Thus, you can quickly go through the entire ceiling.

In order to wash off the old whitewash, you can also use special compounds.

1. AT hardware store you can buy a special wash. It must be applied to the ceiling with a sprayer. When it dries, a crust will appear on the ceiling, which must be removed with a scraper. After that, the surface will simply need to be washed with a cloth.
2. Another option is to add vinegar to the water (one large spoon per 5 liters will be enough) and 50 ml of bath foam, mix thoroughly and apply to the ceiling surface. After waiting 20 minutes, it can be cleaned with a scraper and then rinsed thoroughly with a wet cloth.
3. Another way is to make a paste by mixing water with flour. It must be applied to the surface of the ceiling and allowed to dry, after which you can easily remove the whitewash.

Video - Removing old whitewash

Whitewashing the ceiling by the hands of professional craftsmen

Despite the fact that it is not difficult to whitewash the ceiling on your own, you should not discount such an option as contacting a professional master.

This solution is good because:

• it will help save time;
• turning to a good master, you can be sure that you will get an excellent result;
• the master will need a minimum of paint in order to whitewash the ceiling.

At the same time, as mentioned above, whitewashing actually does not take much time. Therefore, to turn to the master to save time, it makes sense first of all if you are a busy person and are used to always hiring professionals to perform certain jobs.

Due to the fact that the master uses up a minimum of paint, contacting him can cost a little more than painting the ceiling with your own hands. The main thing in this business is to find really a good specialist, which at the same time will take a little for its work. The main thing is not to hire hacks who, working carelessly, can make the whitewash even worse than you would have done - such masters also come across. They take little for their work, but such savings will cost dearly in the end - you will either have to redo everything, or stay with a poorly painted ceiling.

Whitewashing the ceiling with old paint is simple and inexpensive way improve the interior of the room. You can not always use it, but if the previous layer is thin, even and holds well, chalk, lime or water-based emulsion applied directly to the old paint will hold well. If you approach the matter correctly, your new ceiling will become really beautiful, and such a painting result will please you for more than one year.

Video - Whitewashing the ceiling with your own hands