Strawberries are not without reason considered the queen among the berries that grow in our climatic conditions. And this is due to its exquisite taste and unique aroma, which most of us like so much. Special palatability possesses the closest relative of strawberries - garden strawberry, or as it is also called, Victoria. Unfortunately, the ripening season of this beautiful berry is rather short - by the end of the first summer month, it ceases to bear fruit. However, at the same time, it also requires considerable labor efforts on the part of the owner, and not only in spring and summer. Victoria needs care in the fall. And this, in turn, is a guarantee that next summer there will be a wonderful berry harvest on your plot of land. Therefore, we will talk about what to do with Victoria in the fall.

In general, autumn care for Victoria involves, firstly, the obligatory pruning of bushes, and secondly, feeding it with fertilizers, and, thirdly, preparing the plant for winter.

One of the most basic milestones in caring for garden strawberries is pruning. As a rule, mustaches and leaves of bushes are circumcised. The need for this procedure is explained by providing the plant with rest after active growth and fruiting, which will lead to the rejuvenation of Victoria and a set of strength for the next summer. In addition, such processing of Victoria in the fall will help improve the condition of each bush. It is known that different kind pests settle on the leaves. By cutting them, you will naturally heal strawberries.

Regarding how to cut Victoria in the fall, this procedure is recommended to be performed immediately in the fall in September. Use a pruner for this sharp knife or scissors. It is important to cut the leaves at a level of 10 cm from the ground so as not to damage the growing point of the victoria.

After circumcision, experienced gardeners are advised to treat the bushes with solutions from pests and diseases. It will also be very useful for the berry to carry out weeding of the rows, loosening them and pouring fresh earth for bare roots.

How to care for a Victoria berry in autumn: top dressing

And here autumn dressing Victoria strawberries are needed for the accumulation of organic, mineral substances and the formation of new fruit and leaf buds. Victoria fertilizer should be applied in autumn after trimming leaves and mustaches, that is, in September.

If we talk about how to feed Victoria in the fall, then humus, compost, chicken manure, and a barn are excellent for these purposes. Mineral fertilizers are also used (superphosphate, potassium salt). Excellent growth for the kidneys gives top dressing, for the preparation of which it is necessary to mix 2 tablespoons of potash fertilizers and nitrophoska with a glass of wood ash, dissolving the mixture in 10 liters of water. Such a talker must be poured under each bush. After fertilizing, it is recommended to mulch the soil.

Autumn care for Victoria: preparation for winter

In areas where winter is always snowy, Victoria's cold is not terrible. But the lack of snow for plant bushes can be detrimental. That is why strawberries should be covered for the winter.

Ordinary straw is especially suitable for mulching. She needs to carefully and completely cover each bush. But if you do not have straw at your disposal, you can use other materials. Fallen leaves, peat, tree branches or corn stalks are also suitable as a covering pillow - everything that is found in your garden. In addition, quite often purchased covering material - spunbond or lutrasil - is used to prepare Victoria strawberries for winter.

Thanks to such care in the fall for garden Victoria, the plant will accumulate strength and give you a tasty and rich harvest next year.

Garden strawberries, often called Victoria, have gained wide popularity and distribution in the gardens of various regions of the country. This is due to the simplicity of its reproduction, the precocity of culture, the convenience of protection from harsh weather conditions winters, high dietary and taste qualities of berries. Many gardeners receive high yields of Victoria every year, having mastered its agricultural technology well.

Soil and landing site for victoria

It is necessary to plant a plant on a piece of land with a slight slope to the west. The place must be protected from the winds. Indeed, in winter, Victoria is covered with snow from frost, which means that in no case should it be blown away by the wind. A bare berry can freeze and die. It is desirable to choose sandy soil rich in humus.

Others are added to it fertilizer. It is better to apply fertilizers in the fall, spreading them evenly and digging them with a shovel. In the spring, shallow loosening is necessary in order to level the surfaces and close the moisture. For one square meter of soil where strawberries will be planted, you will need:

• twenty grams of potassium chloride;
• twenty grams of ammonium nitrate;
• twenty-five grams of superphosphate;
• six kilograms of humus.

It is best to alternate landing Victoria with vegetable crops . The best predecessors for this berry are: green spaces (dill, parsley, lettuce), legumes, garlic, onions, root crops. And it is not advisable to plant it after potatoes, as the plant can get sick with a nematode.

Reproduction and planting

By the middle of summer, antennae grow in adult Victoria plants, on which nodules are located, giving roots and leaves in the future. With the help of such antennae, Victoria breeds. Three sockets located at mother plant are considered to be of higher quality. When four to six leaves appear on such a rosette, it should be separated from the mother plant for planting in a permanent prepared place. In order for the plant to take root quickly and well, it is necessary to dig sockets with a clod of earth.

Many gardeners plant strawberries in beds eighty to one hundred centimeters wide and up to fifteen centimeters high. The edges of such beds can be edged with boards, and the aisles can be covered with sawdust.

Victoria is planted during the entire vegetative period from the beginning of spring to the middle of the last month of summer. Landing dates are determined by the readiness of the sockets.

For spring term sockets are grown on seedling beds or added dropwise near mother bush. In this case, Victoria will bear fruit already in current year, albeit slightly.

Very common tape two-row landing pattern. In this case, the distance between the rows in the tape is about forty centimeters, between the tapes themselves up to eighty centimeters, and between the plants from twenty to thirty centimeters. In this case, up to ten plants are placed on one square meter.

Planting density depends on the Victoria variety and growing conditions.

Before planting seedlings, you should dig grooves or holes up to ten centimeters deep and water them well. Then plant seedlings in them and water them well again.

It is best to plant in cloudy weather or in the evening. This improves survival.

In order to properly care for young seedlings of Victoria, you should not forget it on time. water. During the first two weeks, watering should be especially regular. If the weather is dry, then watering should be daily, and only then once every two or three days.

How to care for mature victoria bushes

Spring chores

1. After the snow melts and the upper layers of the soil of the beds with Victoria dry up, all debris and dried leaves should be removed from them. Old mustaches and petioles of leaves are best trimmed with secateurs. Victoria bushes that have not endured winter frosts should be removed along with the roots. Weeds that have managed to grow in late autumn are also removed. All these plant residues are composted with manure or burned off site.
2. After the soil dries up in the beds and between the rows, it is loosened to a depth of about four centimeters, then the surface is leveled, crushing lumps and dusted with ash.
3. Now you can apply fertilizer. First of all, when caring for Victoria in the spring, organic fertilizers are applied, for example, sawdust or straw. To do this, they are first crushed and sprinkled a little around the bushes. You can also add peat chips or humus.
4. Preferably in mid-April, and if it doesn’t work out, then in May, treat Victoria from pests. It will be enough to water the plants with a weak solution blue vitriol . After such watering, the first buds will begin to bloom on the plant.
5. Although Victoria is a moisture-loving plant, excessive moisture affects it negatively. When caring for a plant, it is advisable to combine its watering with pest protection and fertilizers. Some gardeners do the first spring watering hot water .
6. After cleaning, watering and sprinkling organic fertilizers quizzes are required nitrogen fertilizers. They are applied only after the first leaves appear on the plant. To do this, combine cowshed and ammonium sulfate, dilute with water and water Victoria.
7. In the morning, once a week in spring, plants should be watered. warm water. Before flowering, watering can be done by sprinkling. When Victoria blooms and when there are already berries on it, watering is done carefully so that water does not get on them.
8. Already in the spring will have to deal with weeds. If the aisles are mulched with sawdust, then there will be no weeds, and water with fertilizers will pass directly to the tubers.

How to care for Victoria in the summer

1. Weekly watering of plants.
2. Weeding beds with Victoria from weeds.
3. Mandatory inspection of plants for diseases and pests.
4. When the first berries begin to tie, be sure to add straw or sawdust. Then the fruits will not get dirty and rot.
5. Mandatory removal of damage to parts of the Victoria or the damaged bush itself so that other plants do not become infected from it.
6. Before flowering, top dressing with a solution of nitrophoska or potassium sulfate.
7. Berries must be collected regularly, along with the stalk.
8. After harvesting Victoria, until the tenth of August, the bushes should be fed with wood ash and nitrophoska.
9. Cover the beds with foil during heavy rains so that diseases do not develop and the berries do not become watery.
10. The antennae should be removed from the fruiting Victoria in a timely manner in order to prevent the rooting of rosettes. The tendrils are left only if seedlings are needed to resume planting. Leave them near the uterine outlets.
11. After harvesting, the soil is loosened, and if the roots are bare, then the bush is spudded.

Autumn work or preparing Victoria for winter

1. The soil must be after flowering mulch. Do it wood chips, straw or dry moss. This allows you to protect the berries from gray rot. The same procedure is repeated by mid-autumn, but already using peat or grain production waste. The thickness of the layer should be from five to eight centimeters. Leaves should not be covered.
2. To prepare Victoria for winter, not only mustaches are cut from the bushes, but also leaves at a distance of ten centimeters from the ground. This should not be frightening, since new leaves will appear before winter, and the plant will get stronger.
3. Cropped bushes should be sprayed against diseases and pests.
4. Feed the plants with mineral fertilizers. This is necessary in order for Victoria to accumulate them for the formation of new leaves and berry buds.
5. In areas where winters are not very snowy, Victoria takes shelter. You can use ordinary straw, tree branches, fallen leaves. Often, some special covering material is used for this purpose. You can also cover with a film, but be sure not to forget to remove it in the spring late start May.

Protection from pests and diseases

An important role in the care of Victoria is its protection from diseases and pests. Of the pests of Victoria, the most common are strawberry mites and nematodes. And from diseases: gray rot berries, powdery mildew and white spotting of berries. But how to care for Victoria to prevent this? To prevent such diseases and pests, you should:

• plant seedlings only healthy;
• use varieties that are resistant to diseases and pests;
• prevent bushes from thickening;
• during the ripening of berries, limit watering;
• remove berries and leaves that are damaged;
• seedlings from healthy mother plants stand for fifteen minutes in hot (forty-six degrees) water to destroy the nematode and strawberry mite;
• in the aisles of Victoria bushes, to combat the nematode, it is recommended to plant calendula, onions, marigolds, garlic, immortelle.

Previously, only strawberries were grown in Russia - a fragrant and tasty berry, but small and not very productive, so today this plant is almost never found on garden plots. It was replaced by large-fruited strawberries, brought by sailors to Europe from America. One of its varieties called "Victoria" began to spread with particular speed, and soon all strawberries began to be called Victoria. To get a rich harvest of tasty and useful berry, you need to know the rules for planting and growing Victoria in open ground.

Victoria landing time

The best time to plant strawberries is spring or autumn. In the spring, plants are planted as early as possible - immediately after warm weather is established and the threat disappears. return frosts. In autumn, Victoria should be planted from the second half of August until September 15, and then in the next planting season they will be pleased with the first berry.

Seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in cassettes or containers, can be planted as early as mid-July. The main thing is to choose a cloudy day for planting and moisten the soil well. Seedlings planted in summer will have time to take root well before winter and next spring give a full harvest.

Some gardeners grow planting material with their own hands, although this is a long and laborious process. Indeed, to obtain a full-fledged independent plant, it will take at least three years. Therefore, experts advise buying seedlings in well-known nurseries, and preferably in cassettes or containers. It is the most reliable and fast way crop cultivation.

Site selection

The site designated for Victoria must be sunny and have flat surface with a slight slope to the southwest. It is not worth choosing steep slopes for planting this crop, from which the wind blows snow in winter, and spring waters carry away part of the fertile layer. Lowlands and depressions, where melt water is kept for a long time, are unsuitable for strawberry cultivation.

The soil on the site should contain a lot of organic matter. Light loams, black soil or gray forest soil are best suited for growing this berry in open ground. Groundwater should lie no closer than 1 m to the surface of the earth.

Victoria grows well after herbs, cereals, onions, garlic, petunias, marigolds. You should not plant a berry on the beds where tomatoes, eggplants, and cucumbers previously grew. After 3-4 years, the plants are transferred to a new place.

spring planting

For the spring planting of Victoria, the soil must be prepared in advance, even before the onset of winter. The site must be carefully dug up, weeds removed and the following fertilizers applied to each square meter of area:

• humus - 9-10 kg;
• superphosphate - 100 g;
• potassium salt - 50g.

Seedlings for planting in the spring should be selected strong and healthy. Before planting in the ground, it should be hardened for several days by placing it in a cool place.

Between plants located in the same row, 25-30 cm are left. To ensure ease of care, the beds are separated by passages 40-50 cm wide.

Before planting, the roots of the plant are cut to 10 cm and holes are dug to such a depth that the root system fits vertically. Particular attention when planting Victoria should be paid to the location of the neck of the bush.

The neck of the bush should be flush with the soil surface. At high rise the roots can dry out, and with a very strong penetration, the plant can rot.

The planted plant is watered abundantly and covered with a special material to protect it from frost or sunburn.

Planting in autumn

Autumn planting of seedlings of strawberries is considered optimal, since in the spring of next year a full-fledged harvest can be harvested from young bushes. Plants planted in early spring, will also begin to bear fruit next season, but they will have to be looked after all summer.

Front autumn planting to process and prepare the site should be in early spring, making the necessary fertilizers. If every piece of land is valuable in the garden, these beds can be temporarily occupied by onions, garlic or celery, that is, early ripening vegetables.

Before planting seedlings in open ground, the roots should be treated with a fungicide (fungicide) and the young plants should be kept in a cool place for several days.

Victoria cultivation

In the first year after planting Victoria in the ground, do not strive to get big harvest. On the contrary, in order for the plant to strengthen and grow root system, it is necessary to remove the appearing antennae and flowers.

Caring for adult plants involves a number of activities.

1. Processing a plot with strawberries. In early spring, as soon as the growing season begins, it is necessary to collect old mulching material from the beds and aisles, remove dry and damaged leaves, and loosen the soil between the plants.
2. Watering. Large juicy fruits cannot be obtained without proper, balanced watering. Moisture should be enough for normal growth plants, and at the same time, strong waterlogging of the soil can provoke rotting of the root system. Victoria is watered 1 time in 10 days at the rate of 10-12 liters per 1 sq. m from mid-April. In the summer, with the onset of heat, the frequency of watering can be increased up to 4 times a week. In autumn, in August and September, the number of waterings is reduced to 2 times a week. Carry out watering work better in the morning, trying not to get water on the leaves and peduncles. During flowering, drip irrigation is used.
3. Loosening. After the next watering, the earth around the plants and between the rows must be carefully loosened, trying not to damage the adventitious roots lying near the surface of the earth. This is necessary in order to make the soil breathable and facilitate the flow of oxygen into the root system.
4. Weeding. Planting care involves the regular removal of weeds from the beds and passages. Weed grass not only depletes the soil, taking most of the moisture and nutrients, but is also a breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria and a refuge for pests. To stop the appearance of weeds, you can cover the area with plantings with mulching material: sawdust, wood chips, dry needles - or close it with agrofiber.

These are the main activities that should be regularly carried out by every gardener involved in growing Victoria in open areas.

Care during flowering

The appearance of the first flower stalks falls in mid-May. It is during this period that the future harvest, the quality and quantity of which depends on the correct care. To feed the plant during this period, potash fertilizers, humus and ash are introduced into the soil. You can increase the number of inflorescences with a solution of boric acid, prepared at the rate of 1 tsp. on a bucket of water, which is sprayed with green bushes.

It is especially important to weed and loosen the site, preventing the emergence and growth of weeds. To get a large berry, you need to use a pruner to remove all the extra tendrils and leaves that absorb moisture from the soil and nutrients.

Feeding Victoria

Care for Victoria is impossible to imagine without feeding this plant. Fertilizers should be applied at least three times per season.

• In early spring, after processing the area allotted for the berry, nitroammophoska is introduced into the soil. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which are part of this fertilizer, are the most necessary substances for plant development.
• During budding, potassium is added to the soil, a large amount of which is found in ash, infusion of chicken manure, and potassium nitrate. After picking the berries, the plants are again fed with nitroammophos, dissolving 2 tbsp. l. in 10 liters of water.
• And the last time Victoria is fed in August with urea. This contributes to the formation of new flower buds and more abundant fruiting next year. The solution is prepared at the rate of 30 g of urea per 10 liters of water.

There is a complex fertilizer on sale, designed specifically for strawberries and increasing yields by 30%.

Growing Victoria is an incredibly useful and interesting activity, although it requires certain skills and knowledge. Having studied the advice of experts and providing proper care for plants, it will not be difficult to get decent harvest this delicious berry.

The taste and size of Victoria strawberries depend on care and top dressing. It is an undemanding and large berry.

It resists diseases well, but you need to choose the right place for landing. If necessary, correct the soil, because on heavy soils with clay impurities, the absorption of nutrients is impaired. Fertilizer for Victoria can be selected from organic materials available on the farm, or you can use purchased mixtures specifically designed for strawberries.

If additives are not used additionally, not all characteristics of the variety will appear. The longer the plant is in the garden, the more it takes nutrients and the worse it grows and bears fruit: sour small berries, small bushes.

You can start caring for strawberries in the fall. If the seedlings have not yet been planted, you need to prepare the beds and apply some fertilizer - preferably organic, so that the young bushes immediately begin to grow.

Landing site preparation

How to feed Victoria for the future harvest - can be found in the household:

• compost;

• chicken manure;

• manure;

• green manure;

• mineral mixtures.

But first you need to choose the right bed:

• it should be on the sunny side;

• be protected from the winds a good option- put a fence on both sides of the garden, so that the bushes are in shelter;

• do not choose areas where water stagnates;

• not very good if the bed is near potatoes, tomatoes, peppers;

• do not plant under trees.

You can plant Victoria in the holes and add fertilizer to each. If water stagnates in the soil, then it is better to plant on the "comb".

Fertilizing Victoria in the spring

Strawberries respond very well to organic fertilizers. For spring dressings victoria, you can use an infusion of chicken manure. Use chicken fertilizer carefully, as it is the most concentrated of all animal fertilizers.

To begin with, a third of the bucket is filled with litter and poured with water. Wait 4 - 5 days until the excess ammonia disappears from the mixture. Further, each liter of infusion is diluted in 20 liters of water. Water under the root in the hole so that the fertilizer does not spread.

The best option is compost based on manure or chicken manure. But at home, it ripens for a long time, and buying is expensive.

The substance is prepared as follows - they are laid in layers in the collar:

• priming;

• manure;

• plant residues;

• kitchen waste.

For the first time, Victoria's nutrition is enough. After rooting, after about 2 to 3 weeks, foliar spraying of strawberries with a urea solution diluted two times can be carried out. This will stimulate the growth of greenery and shoots. During fruiting, strawberries should not be sprayed.

Flowers appear in mid-May.

It's time to think about how to feed Victoria to replenish potassium and phosphorus. It is not advisable to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as this causes increased growth of shoots, but it has a bad effect on the formation of fruits: you can get large beautiful strawberry bushes with one peduncle.

Ash solution is a unique folk remedy that has been used since time immemorial and always works well. To do this, you need to burn the wood and save the ashes. Many in the country grill barbecue using firewood.

Hardwoods are more suitable, especially oak. Oak ash contains 20% potassium and 75% calcium. There is more potassium in young shoots, and it is also found in weed ash. Preparing the ash solution is simple:

• take 300 g of ash;

• pour a bucket of water;

• wait 3-4 days.

It can be watered at the beginning of the fruiting period for better ripening of berries and their sweet taste.

Video: The first feeding of strawberries in the spring

It is important to do regular weeding and clipping of strawberries, because in order for them to grow, the plant consumes additional nutrients that must be used to form fruits. It is recommended to cut the first flowers so that the rest are larger.

In the spring, you should especially protect the plant from fungal diseases that can damage the berries. Proper and regular feeding helps to maintain the immunity of the plant.

Victoria's summer top dressing

Potassium and phosphorus are the substances that need to be fertilized with Victoria in the summer during the period of active fruiting. You can continue to use the ash solution. If the ash is over, then apply mineral fertilizers. It is advisable to use those mixtures that are specifically designed for berry crops.

Conventional fertilizers for flowers and vegetables are not suitable, as they have an incomplete composition of trace elements. Experienced gardeners advise to apply potassium nitrate - 1 teaspoon of granules diluted in 10 liters of water. Watering boric acid helps to increase the number of inflorescences - Mix 1 teaspoon in a bucket of water.

If it lasts for a long time rainy weather and little sun, then we should expect the appearance of the fungus on strawberry plantation. To avoid this, you need to mulch the soil between the rows and under the bushes. The berries will be dry and less likely that the fungus from the soil will get to them.

Important! During the fruiting period, it is impossible to use chemistry against pests. Plants should be sprayed in advance for prevention.

In summer, watering is especially important when strawberries are gaining weight. Nutrients must dissolve in water and so enter the berries. If there is not enough water, then the assimilation of dressings will be inferior, and the berries will be tasteless, or rather sour. In the absence of rain strawberries it is recommended to water 3-4 times a week so that the soil is moistened to a depth of 10-12 cm.

Autumn top dressing of Victoria strawberries

How to fertilize Victoria so that next year's harvest will please? Before embarking on autumn events, you need to think about how long strawberries grow in one place. If it is 3 years old, then it needs to be transplanted, otherwise the berries will shrink and the yield will decrease. And in the fall, phosphorus mixtures are usually added. Phosphorus binds to the soil and remains in it until spring.

Superphosphate is a good choice. It can be buried in the ground in a dry form, making furrows around the bush or diluted with water and poured over the recesses, and then sprinkled with earth. Superphosphate dissolves for about a day, so it is first soaked and stirred periodically, and then watered.

Potassium is needed in order for the bush to winter well. potash fertilizers for Victoria, you can also make in September. If you use wood ash for this purpose, then at the same time you can achieve looser soil and reduce soil acidity. This is an economical means, since it maybe once every 3 years.

Important! You can not add nitrogen before winter, because it stimulates the growth of green mass and the plant will die from the cold

For the winter, strawberry bushes are mulched and, depending on the winter in the region, wrapped in polyethylene or spruce branches.

conclusions

To get a good harvest of Victoria strawberries, it is enough to follow simple rules use of fertilizers, watering and transplanting plants.

Hello, dear readers! I am the creator of the "Fertilizers.NET" project. Glad to see each of you on its pages. I hope the information in the article was helpful. Always open for communication - comments, suggestions, what else you want to see on the site, and even criticism, you can write to me on VKontakte, Instagram or Facebook (round icons below). All peace and happiness! 🙂

Strawberries are unpretentious horticultural crops but still requires some care. First of all, it concerns protection against diseases and insects. The processing of strawberries in the spring from diseases and pests should not be skipped, since the health and productivity of plants will depend on this.

This article will describe the main diseases and crop pests, methods of dealing with them and effective prophylactic. You will also learn how to properly handle strawberries in the spring to prevent disease in young plants.

Strawberry diseases and the need for processing in the spring

Each disease develops in certain soil and climatic conditions, so before planting, you need to take into account the likelihood of developing pathologies of this variety in your area.

Despite this, all diseases have characteristic symptoms and factors provoking the development of certain pathologies. Let's consider them in more detail.

Causes

Most diseases develop due to fungal spores. Offensive warm weather and high humidity contribute to their spread throughout the site.

Note: Often the gardener himself is guilty of an infection in the beds if he buys seedlings of unknown origin in the market or from neighbors.

Also, the following reasons contribute to the development of ailments:

• dense plantings, including overgrowing of the site with weeds that impair the ventilation of the beds;
• non-observance of crop rotation rules, placement near crops prone to the same diseases;
• lack of care (trimming of mustaches and leaves, loosening);
• depleted soil with a lack of magnesium, potassium and other elements;
• rare top dressing, weakening the immunity of the bushes;
• excess moisture.

In addition, diseases can also appear if strawberries are planted in the wrong place, and the plants feel an acute shortage of sunlight. Also, infections and fungi are spread by pests, so these insects need to be destroyed in time.

Symptoms

The first sign indicating that the plant is sick is spots on the leaves. The color of the spots may suggest the cause of the disease. They can be red, brown, light or rusty. At the first appearance of such spots, the plant is subjected to immediate treatment (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Common strawberry diseases: rot, rust and powdery mildew

Symptoms of diseases are different, but you should always pay attention to the general condition of the bushes. If the strawberry begins to lean, the leaves dry quickly, turn brown, which means that the pathology is developing. If treatment is not applied as soon as possible, then in a few months the plant will die.

Often the treatment is carried out in isolation. For this, the diseased bush is dug up and placed in a separate container, where they are treated. In the worst case, the disease can migrate to neighboring bushes and it will be much more difficult to deal with it. With a strong defeat of the seedling, it is immediately removed from the garden and burned.

Note: If regular wilting of strawberries occurs from year to year, the type or quality of the soil may not be suitable for the selected varieties. In this case, you should choose the most disease-resistant varieties.

There are cases when it is impossible to determine the presence of a disease, and you can find out about it only when the first inflorescences are formed. They are deformed and stained. If the berries are formed under such conditions, then they are still green covered with brown spots, then they become stale and dry. Ripe fruits lose their sweetness, become tasteless and bitter.

Strawberry diseases and their treatment: video

The author of the video will tell you more about the processing of strawberries in the spring from diseases and pests, as well as about the main diseases of this crop.

Processing strawberries in the spring from diseases and pests

To get a good harvest, it is necessary to carry out spring processing of strawberries from diseases and pests, as well as a number of agrotechnical measures, which will help keep the plants healthy and get a rich harvest.

There are several ways to prevent and certain rules plant processing.

Processing Features

When processing strawberry plantings in the spring, experienced gardeners recommend removing the top layer of soil. Thus, we can get rid of many pests. If this is not possible for you, then you need to loosen the soil well and remove the weeds. Sanitize plants, remove dry and damaged leaves. This should be done in dry sunny weather and very carefully so as not to damage the bush, since the plants are still weak after winter and not sufficiently rooted (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Treatment of strawberries against diseases and pests

After cleaning the beds, you need to start the preventive treatment of plantings from pests and diseases, especially fungal ones. It is good to spray the bushes with copper-containing preparations. This will reduce the likelihood of damage to plants by blotches, powdery mildew, verticillium. It must be remembered that the treatment should be carried out before the plant begins to bloom.

Note: During the flowering period, biological preparations can be used. With a strong infection of plantings, a week after harvesting, the bushes need to be mowed.

It is impossible to allow an excess of nitrogen, constantly carry out top dressing with both organic and mineral fertilizers. It is not recommended to use fresh manure, it can cause infections and pests.

Ways

With the onset of spring, it is necessary to process strawberries from diseases and pests. For this you can use chemicals or biologics. Many gardeners recommend treating strawberries and other crops with hot water. To do this, the water is heated to a temperature of + 60-65 degrees and the bushes are watered from above. The main thing is that the water does not cool down in advance, and the distance between the bush and the watering can is about a meter.

When the earth warms up well, the landings again need to be mulched. Pine or spruce needles, straw, or special material can be used as mulch. The mulch will act as an antiseptic.

rules

Planting begins after the snow has completely melted. First of all, last year's layer of mulch and other debris are raked, then the top layer of soil is removed. Next, you need to feed the plants with organic or mineral fertilizers. After that, the plantings are dug deep and thinned out.

To reduce the likelihood of diseases and pests, they are guided by the following rules:

• The soil is treated before planting;
• Seedlings are purchased from trusted suppliers, better - in specialized nurseries;
• Timely carry out proper care, remove weeds;
• Every 3-4 years, transplant strawberries to a new place;
• Plant repellent plants, such as calendula or marigolds, next to strawberry plantings.

When processing bushes, special biological preparations are used and chemical solutions. All work is carried out in the morning or in the evening. It is impossible to carry out such events in the hot time of the day.

Treatment scheme for pests and diseases

There is no specific scheme for processing strawberries from diseases and pests. The main thing in the fight is to hold on time preventive measures(Figure 3).

Figure 3. Scheme spring processing strawberries from diseases and pests

In spring, you need to remove the top layer of soil between the bushes and replace it with fresh soil. If this fails, remove last year's mulch and loosen the soil well. Remove old leaves and mustaches, plant young rosettes in place of dead bushes. Apply fertilizer to the soil and treat for diseases and pests.

After the strawberries begin to grow, the bed needs to be mulched. Before flowering should be treated against pests and fungal diseases. When the first buds appear in the soil, it is necessary to apply phosphate fertilizers, and after flowering - complex mineral fertilizers.

Processing strawberries in the fall from pests and diseases

In autumn, the garden needs special care. And although the strawberry crop has already been harvested, it still needs pruning, feeding, watering, loosening and processing from diseases and pests.

The correctness of the autumn care will determine how successfully the plants will endure the winter and whether they will be able to actively bear fruit next year.

Processing Features

The fight against diseases and pests is to prevent negative factors and preventive measures. Prevention can be folk methods and with the help of special preparations. But even supporters of folk remedies admit that it is better to fight ailments with modern drugs. They should be used in spring or autumn, when the plants do not bear fruit. In order for the plants to look good, the autumn processing of strawberries should be carried out systematically.

Of the strawberry pests, the most common are: spider mites, strawberry weevil, snails, slugs, aphids. Of the diseases - gray, brown and white spotting, powdery mildew.

For processing strawberries in the fall, the following preparations are used: Nitrofen, Topaz, Actellik, Karbofos, Metaldegrid and others, as well as folk remedies for pest control. You can also use Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate or potassium permanganate. Slugs and snails must be independently collected from the bushes and destroyed.

For prevention, it is necessary to constantly remove weeds, water and feed the plants, loosen the soil, cut dry and diseased leaves and shoots.

Ways

The best method of controlling diseases and pests is prevention. But, if this could not be done, then they use different methods of struggle.

by the most dangerous pest considered to be a strawberry mite. To combat it, spraying with karbofos is used. Carry out this procedure after the last harvest. This method can be used to control weevils, whiteflies and other pests. In the fight against weevil, crop rotation should be taken into account, as well as spraying plants during the period of active life with Nurell D, karate, and zolon preparations.

You can get rid of slugs by picking them up with your hands or using Metaldehyde granular. After fruiting, granules are laid out under each bush, which destroy slugs.

Among the diseases, gray rot is considered the most common. To combat the disease, plantings are treated with copper oxychloride before flowering, and after harvesting, a solution of copper oxychloride is used and liquid soap. You can not thicken the landing.

From brown spotting, liquid cute and copper oxychloride are used. Spraying is carried out in early spring and autumn. When the bushes are affected by powdery mildew, strawberries are treated with Sulfaride, potassium permanganate or colloidal sulfur before flowering.

rules

When carrying out autumn processing of strawberries from diseases and pests, the following rules should be observed:

• Using special solutions they should be bred only according to the instructions;
• Processing of plants is carried out in the early morning or late evening;
• Spray the bushes after the last harvest;
• A plant infected with late blight in a neglected form is removed from the garden and burned.

In order to prevent the spread of diseases and pests, it is necessary to remove weeds in a timely manner, feed the plants and loosen the ground, as well as periodically inspect the plantings to detect the first signs of the disease.

The author of the video tells how to properly care for strawberries in different seasons.

Treatment of strawberry late blight

Late blight is considered one of the most common diseases. He strikes different types plants and can be transmitted from one culture to another.

This disease is dangerous because its pathogen can persist in the soil, therefore, when the first symptoms of the pathology are detected, treatment should be started immediately.

Causes

The appearance of late blight often manifests itself in the second half of summer. Rainy weather and high temperatures contribute to rapid spread.

The causative agents of the disease are fungi that are transmitted by zoospores. The infection scheme looks simple: the spores of the fungus fall on the aerial parts of neighboring plants or are washed into the ground by rain. Phytophthora affects both aboveground parts of plants (stems, leaves, fruits) and underground (tubers).

Very often, strawberry bushes become infected with late blight from tomatoes and potatoes planted nearby.

Symptoms

Signs of late blight are gray-brown spots, which are covered with a coating resembling a cobweb or surrounded by a ring of white mold (Figure 4). The leaves of the affected plant wither, brown spots appear on the petioles and peduncles, which soon rot, it noticeably lags behind in growth. Parts of the plants that are affected die off, sometimes the plants die.

Note: In infected plants, the number of rosettes decreases, the leaves on them are deformed, the whiskers become short. In autumn, you can see signs of late blight on the roots. Small roots all die off, thereby exposing larger ones, they soon begin to rot. The wood of the root is painted black-brown.

When the buds bloom, the core of the inflorescences looks dead. The pistils turn black, but the corolla remains white. This may resemble freezing in the spring, but with late blight, the shape of diseased flowers differs from healthy ones. In addition, berries are no longer formed from such flowers.

Figure 4. Symptoms of strawberry late blight

The disease brings great losses to ovaries and immature fruits. The berries are bent, lose their taste and become unsuitable for transportation and storage. brown spots on the pulp they become bitter and hard, soon the berries dry out and die. To distinguish a diseased berry from one that lacks water, you can simply cut it: if the core of the dark berry is affected.

Verticillium wilt of strawberries: treatment

Strawberries are affected by verticillium at any age. The most obvious symptoms during the fruiting period.

Consider the main causes that can cause the disease, as well as the symptoms of the disease, by which it can be determined that the shrub needs treatment.

Causes

Verticillium wilt of strawberries is caused by a fungus. The harmfulness of this disease is expressed in a rapid decrease in yield and the death of bushes. The affected plant dies in the second year.

Note: The disease most often manifests itself in beds where the predecessors were crops susceptible to the disease: potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cotton, raspberries, etc.

The disease affects plants of any age. The manifestation of the disease begins in late May - early June and continues to develop throughout the growing season. Plants are infected with verticillium through the root system. Once in the roots, the mycelium of the fungus penetrates the conducting system and multiplies. As it becomes infected inside, the root becomes brown and dies.

Symptoms

Symptoms of the disease vary depending on soil type, strawberry variety and other causes (Figure 5).

Drying begins with damage to the root neck, vascular system, rosette and root system. The infected plant lags behind in growth, then the leaves begin to lie down on the ground and turn red-yellow.

Figure 5. Signs of verticillium wilt of strawberries

In the chronic form, a gradual increase in symptoms occurs, which is expressed in a lag in the growth of leaves and a decrease in their number. By the end of the growing season, the petioles of the leaves become red and die imperceptibly. Some bushes manage to survive and give new growth in the spring. This is achieved by varieties that are resistant to fungi.

To avoid the occurrence of this disease, you need to observe crop rotation and choose resistant varieties bred by breeders.

Treatment of chlorosis in strawberries

Chlorosis is not a very serious disease, and if you notice the signs in time and take certain actions, you can save the plant. But in order to do this, you need to know the causes and signs of the disease.

Causes

The most common signs of chlorosis are (Figure 6):

• Infection: A plant can become ill with chlorosis due to infection by insects and pests from diseased plants, as well as from diseases accumulated over the years in the soil.
• Lack of trace elements and minerals in the diet: this is the most common cause of the disease. Plants need magnesium, zinc, iron, lime, etc., so they need to be fed regularly.
• Conditions for care and planting: the occurrence of chlorosis may be due to damage to the root system, poor quality of the soil, wrong location beds or improper care and watering.

To begin to properly treat plants, you need to determine the true cause of the disease.

Symptoms

Symptoms of the disease may vary detailed information can be obtained through special laboratory research. But there are a number external signs, by which it is possible to determine which microelement the plant lacks.

Figure 6. Symptoms of strawberry chlorosis

The most common type is iron chlorosis. The leaf plate uniformly turns yellow or white, the veins remain green. Upper young leaves suffer first.

Magnesium chlorosis occurs due to a lack of magnesium. Often found in light sandy soils. The edges of the old lower leaves begin to turn yellow first, and then the entire leaf.

In spring, zinc chlorosis is very common, especially on older leaves. The disease begins with an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Dots of red, orange or yellow appear on the leaf plates.

Nitrogen chlorosis is manifested by yellowing veins on the lower leaves. Soon, the parts of the leaf adjacent to the veins lose color, then the entire leaf. Sulfuric chlorosis first affects young leaves. First, the veins turn yellow, and then the entire leaf plate.

Strawberry brown spot: treatment during flowering

Brown spotting is a widespread fungal disease. Its development is affected by increased humidity associated with constant precipitation or excessive watering. Because of this, the disease can appear in spring, summer and autumn.

Causes

The cause of the disease is the mycelium of the fungus. Main Feature This pathogen is its two-season: in the first year, development occurs during fruiting and persists for the winter. In a year, late spring when the fruits begin to form, a second infection occurs, which negatively affects the yield.

The development of the disease is provoked by the same factors as other fungal infections: excessive watering, dense plantings, constant dampness of the soil in the garden, temporary cooling and overgrowing of the site with weeds.

Symptoms

Obvious signs of the disease are burns on the leaves (Figure 7). These are contourless brown-brown spots of oval or round shape. On the initial stage resemble small opal along the edges of the sheet, after a while the spots grow, and dark leathery mushroom pads appear on top. Mustaches and peduncles are also covered with brown spots.

Figure 7. Signs of brown spot on strawberry leaves

Soon the leaves dry up and die, and the spores of the fungus remain. At the first rainfall, the spores will disperse throughout the garden.

Protection of strawberries from pests and diseases

To protect the bushes and get good yields, you need to apply an integrated system that includes agrotechnical, chemical, biological and quarantine measures.

Agrotechnical ones imply compliance with crop rotation, fulfillment of requirements for the timing and methods of soil cultivation, planting, weed control, and fertilization.

The chemical method consists in the use of special means of protection against a group of pests and diseases. To do this, in early spring, you need to remove damaged and dry leaves. At the first signs of powdery mildew, spotting and gray rot, the planting is treated with a Bordeaux mixture before the leaves begin to grow. During the period of leaf regrowth, when signs of white and brown spotting appear, they are treated with Euparen. During the formation of buds, they are treated against moths, gall midges and other pests with Actellik. After harvesting, plantings are treated with Topaz, Euparen or Switch.

30.08.2017 11 938

Care for strawberries after harvest - what not to forget to do ?!

An important component of good and tasty fruits of the next year is the care of strawberries after harvesting now. Processing, pruning, fertilizing, watering, loosening should not be left aside, because it is after the berries are harvested that the most important and crucial period for the plant begins - the laying of new fruit buds. Therefore, you simply have to help your plants in the garden. And how to do it right and when exactly, read on.

What to do with strawberry bushes in July and August?

Active care for Victoria in August begins in July, after harvest, and continues almost until frost. To get large and sweet fruits next year, it is necessary to provide proper care for the plant now and prepare the beds for winter. It is during the period after the harvest of berries that the wave of formation of young leaves, tendrils and the formation of new horns begins, which accumulate all the microelements necessary for the future harvest. Care for Victoria includes the following steps:

1. pruning strawberries after harvest
2. soil loosening
3. top dressing of bushes
4. antennae removal
5. treatment for diseases and pests

Pruning bushes after harvest

Many summer residents are wondering if it is possible to cut strawberries in September and October? No, you can’t, the procedure must be carried out immediately after harvesting. Otherwise, you may not be left without a crop, but without bushes at all. In order to overwinter well, the culture needs to grow new leaves and lay the future crop before the arrival of frost.

When the autumn cleaning is completed and the old foliage begins to die off, the plant should direct all its energy into preparing for wintering. In general, the main purpose of pruning is the destruction of existing diseases and pests. Provided that all prunings are burned or destroyed, and not sent to the compost heap. Therefore, it is up to you whether to cut or not. It is worth noting that if garden strawberries bear fruit the first year, it is better not to prune.

In addition, first of all, all bushes older than 5 years old, which will no longer bear fruit, should be removed and replaced with new young ones. You need to cut the crop or mow almost to the ground.

After pruning the leaves, loosen the soil between rows to a depth of 10 cm. Be careful near the bushes, you can damage the roots of the plant. The bushes themselves should be spudded so that the adventitious roots are covered with earth.

Need special consideration newly formed strawberry whiskers. At the end of July or August, root the regrown tendrils at the berries of the first year. In plants from two to four years old, the antennae must be cut as they appear, they will only interfere with the formation of new buds. In addition, two-year-old bushes are the most fruitful in comparison with three-year-old and four-year-old ones. Please note that we are talking about ordinary varieties of garden strawberries, as it has its own characteristics of cultivation and care.

Five-year-old bushes must be simply and ruthlessly removed, the harvest from them will be small, and the plant takes up a lot of space in the garden. Therefore, cutting the leaves before wintering is not worth it. If you notice brown spots, twisted young leaves, insects, then there is a need to process the plants, because they are the main enemies of a generous harvest!

Treatment of strawberries from diseases and pests

In September, in the fall, strawberries need to be sprayed from infections and pests. Carefully inspect your plantations, most often garden strawberries suffer from such ailments:

• strawberry mite- yellowed, deformed leaves speak of its appearance, processing the bush after harvesting with karbofos (3 tablespoons per bucket of water) will help get rid of the pest, various acaricides help a lot: Actellik, Kleschevit, etc.
• Spraying with karbofos will save strawberries from strawberry weevil , this insect hibernates in the soil and feeds on the leaves and buds of the bush
• discover spider mite not so difficult. Its appearance is indicated by the presence of cobwebs on the foliage. If a mite is detected early, after harvesting, it is better to remove all foliage from the plant. Fitoverm is used to fight the tick, diluting 2 ml per liter of water
• Gray and black rot determined by the presence of spots on the sheets of the corresponding color, the plantation can be cured by treatment with a solution of copper oxychloride (30 g per 8 l of water)
• powdery mildew it looks like a gray coating, while the foliage twists, rots, and as a result, it disappears. Spraying with a solution (100 g of colloidal sulfur in 10 liters of water) will relieve this ailment
• Brown spots indicate the appearance brown spotting, the plant must be cleaned of old foliage, adjust soil moisture. Heavily damaged copies will have to be removed. The attack is treated with the following composition - 60 g of copper oxychloride diluted in a bucket of water or Bordeaux liquid (1%). You can spray strawberries with potassium permanganate (weak solution), Ridomil, Skor, Horus are also used
• Remove brown and white spotting treatment of strawberries with iodine helps. To do this, make a mixture in proportions of 10-15 drops per 10 liters soap solution. Experienced gardeners especially recommend this treatment in the spring, adding a glass of whey to the mixture. Homemade composition has been observed to protect plants from fungus and bacteria

Advice: To keep your strawberries from getting sick, when preparing the bushes for winter, spray with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture using a shower head for a watering can. Spraying strawberries with brilliant green (1 drop per liter of water) is also effective. horse sorrel will make strawberry beds strong and resistant to diseases and pests. To do this, fill half a bucket with chopped sorrel and fill to the top with water (without chlorine). Let it brew for 2-3 days and water the strawberries with the resulting solution, at the rate of 0.5 l per 1 bush.

Feeding strawberries in autumn

How to feed strawberries for the winter? In September - October, strawberries are fed with fertilizers, which contain phosphorus and potassium, without nitrogen. Fertilizers are applied to the ground by irrigation or mixed with the soil during loosening. Feeding strawberries with ash will be great folk remedy for fertilizer. It must be scattered in a small amount around the bushes of plants (a small handful). Ash is good source phosphorus and potassium, which is so necessary for plants to strengthen for the winter.

What else can you feed strawberries for the winter? Various mineral fertilizers are sold in stores, if desired, it is easy to make the composition at home with your own hands, to prepare a nutrient mixture per 1 sq.m. landings will be required:

• 30 gr superphosphate
• 10 gr ammonium nitrate
• 10 gr potassium sulphate

After applying dry mineral fertilizers for strawberries in the fall, the ground should be well watered and make sure that the soil does not dry out completely (especially for regions such as the Astrakhan region, Krasnodar Territory, Adygea, etc.). After each watering loosen the soil, weed from weeds. To save moisture and prevent the appearance of a crust on the surface of the earth, plant bushes can be covered with straw or peat.

You should be careful with the use of fertilizers for strawberries containing chlorine, as the plant does not tolerate it. For the winter, summer residents with experience recommend fertilizing the land with humus or compost, evenly distributing it over the garden bed, trying not to fill up the plant hearts. In addition, is important point in plant life. Especially if the winters are snowless and frosty in the growing region.

Victoria care is an important component for the formation of juicy, large and healthy berries for the next year. So, after picking berries, work for summer residents and gardeners is just beginning!

At the end of summer, strawberries run out of leaf growth resources. They need to be cut off, especially those with reddening stems - this is a sign that the plant cannot provide them with nutrients. On old bushes, which are 3 - 4 years old, the foliage is cut off completely. Do not be afraid of this, as there is a saving of minerals and next year the berry bushes will again bring a big harvest. But this fall, you still need to think about how to feed strawberries after harvest.

Required condition rapid growth shoots in spring and appearance a large number kidneys - feeding strawberries in August after pruning. From them, ovaries are subsequently formed.

How strawberries are processed in the fall for the winter

In order for all the ovaries to survive until autumn and bear fruit, care must be carried out regularly during the entire growing season. It consists in the timely removal of dry leaves and mustaches. The tendrils that the bush throws out take a lot of nutrients, taking them away from the ripening berries.

Pruning in the summer is done with scissors or secateurs. Cut shoots are not thrown away if you need to propagate the garden. They are dug in for a while to be planted in their permanent place in the fall. Until autumn, they will develop a root system and take root in a new place without problems.

This method of planting strawberries in August with a mustache requires the use of fertilizers - organic or mineral. Bushes are watered with manure infusion or a diluted mixture of a complex mineral mixture, for example, containing potassium and phosphorus. It is better not to use nitrogen supplements so that young seedlings do not grow. This will not allow her to winter well. The main thing that needs to develop is the root system.

The best way to feed a strawberry mustache in September for seedlings is ash from tree branches, straw, tops and grass. It does not contain nitrogen, only phosphorus, potassium, calcium and trace elements.

When a landing site is selected new garden, it is cleaned of weeds, loosened, apply fertilizer:

• Compost- the most useful mixture of organic matter, soil, superphosphates.

• Humus- lying manure of cattle. Applied by adding to each hole at planting. Under the influence of soil microorganisms, it turns into nutritious humus.

• Infusion of chicken manure. The substance must be insisted for at least a week so that excess ammonia disappears and does not damage the roots of young strawberry seedlings.

• mineral fertilizers. They are introduced to feed young strawberries in August based on the dosages in the instructions for one well.

• siderates. If this method is used by the owners of the site, then in addition it disinfects the soil and at the same time feeds the plants with organic matter, which decomposes in the soil.

No more than two young rosettes can be left on the mother strawberry bush. The rest are cut off and planted in a nutritious soil mixture.

Caring for old strawberry bushes

Fertilizing for strawberries after fruiting should begin towards the end of the season so that all the berries ripen. The next step is sorting. Shrubs that are over 4 years old should be removed by the roots and thrown into compost. The largest increase in yield is given by 2-3 year old plants.

Work order:

• Removing old leaves from bushes. Experienced gardeners practice full mowing of greenery.

• Weed weeding.

• Moisturizing the soil and watering with a nutrient mixture.

• Mulching with straw or green manure.

Video: Care for strawberries after harvest

How to feed strawberries after cutting leaves:

• Ammophoska. You can use dry granules by sprinkling them evenly under the roots, then water the soil so that the fertilizer dissolves and enters the soil.

• Kemira for berries. Dig a hole around the bush and sprinkle with granules. Pour water and cover with a layer of soil.

• Furnace ash. Make an extract, fill the substance with boiling water and insist 2 - 3 days.

• Green manure in the form of a solution or in a beveled form. Place chopped nettles or other plants that are used as green manure in a bucket. Pour in water and leave for 2 weeks until it begins to ferment. With the resulting infusion, treat each strawberry bush under the root after fruiting and pruning.

So that the plants do not get sick and are not damaged by pests, autumn feeding of strawberries after pruning includes treatment with urea 30 g per bucket of water.

Cheap Strawberry Fertilizing Methods

Green manure plantings on suburban area This is a way to save on the purchase of fertilizers. Siderates restore the fertile layer and give the plants all the necessary nutrients - potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. The advantage of the method is that it is suitable for everyone. horticultural crops, including - for garden strawberries.

Green mass is used in different ways:

• cut and dig with soil - in the case of strawberries, this must be done carefully so as not to damage the root system with a shovel or flat cutter;

• mulch berry bushes with greenery;

• prepare an infusion and water the strawberry garden, which feed it after fruiting for the next harvest.

Mulching is the safest and most useful way in every way. Firstly, you don’t need to waste your energy on digging up the earth, simply by laying the mulch between the rows. By spring, she herself will rot and the food will get to the roots of the bushes.

Secondly, work is not disrupted soil microflora, which dies when digging from ultraviolet rays. Thirdly, the mulch warms the roots in winter and the plants survive even at very low temperatures.

Fourthly, plant residues retain snow and moisture in spring, enabling plants to grow green mass faster. Fifth, mulch prevents weeds from spreading, which reduces manual labor costs and preserves nutrients for strawberries.

Variety Victoria - how to feed in the fall

Victoria strawberries are the most popular and unpretentious variety, but to obtain annual crops, they also need care, which consists of periodic cutting of the whiskers, watering, transplanting as needed and treatment against diseases and pests. The variety belongs to the remontant and bears fruit only once per season.

With the right agricultural technology, more than 1 kg of berries can be obtained from one bush in one season. For proper care it is better to use the method of O. Ganichkina for feeding strawberries after fruiting:

• Feeding Victoria in the fall is carried out natural fertilizers to restore the fertile layer.

• It is necessary to mulch with plant materials - sawdust, straw, green manure, peat.

• feed remontant strawberries after fruiting, they begin in July, so that the plant gains strength before wintering. In that period is coming laying of generative buds, which will provide a harvest next year. It is important that these buds receive nutrition and do not degenerate, then the promised kilogram of berries from the bush will definitely ripen.

• autumn before feeding victoria need to pour up to 10 liters of water per 1 square meter to moisten the soil well and deeply. Then you can prepare a working solution of fertilizers and water the bushes. The roots of strawberries are deep enough - up to 30 cm, so you need a lot of liquid.

So that the strawberry mite does not disturb in the spring, in the fall it is necessary to shed the seedlings with a preparation from pests, preferably natural - Fitovir or its analogues. In the spring, when the growing leaves are deformed, repeat the treatment.

Garden strawberries (traditionally called strawberries by the people) are a favorite delicacy not only of our children and grandchildren, but also of numerous insects that live in abundance in their summer cottage. The mechanical destruction of these pests is not always possible, it is often necessary to call for chemical means of protection. In addition, the culture is susceptible to diseases that lead to a decrease in yield or even death of plants. Safe for humans, but quite effective remedies for the fight can often be made from well-known substances.

The need for processing strawberries

Calendula is a good insecticide for strawberries

You can not leave in the winter and strawberry mites. If you want to do without chemistry, you can shed the bed several times a week with an infusion of onion peel. To do this, pour about 200 g of husk with a bucket of water, leave for 3-4 days, strain.

If there are many different pests, but the situation is not yet critical, immediately after the last berry picking, you can try to mow all the leaves and burn them. Many people do this with 3-4 year old strawberry plantations anyway. It is good if, after mowing, the sun fries the remains of the bushes for several days. After that, it is necessary to water the bed well, preferably with the addition of fertilizers: phosphorus and potash. The foliage will grow back quickly and be much healthier.

If there were a lot of rotten berries, the bushes after harvesting can be treated with mustard infusion (100 g per bucket of water, leave for 2 days, filter and dilute twice). If you are not very afraid of "chemistry", instead of mustard, you can take copper oxychloride and follow the instructions for the drug.

In the case of powdery mildew, one of the best solutions would be to spray with a solution of Topaz. In the fight against fungal diseases, Bordeaux liquid is very effective.

How to process strawberries

The range of drugs for pest and disease control on strawberry plantations is huge. Over time, new chemicals appear, and old ones multiply their names: many businessmen produce well-known drugs under their own name. It's getting harder and harder to figure out what's for sale. Fortunately, in most situations it is quite possible to get by with the well-known drugs themselves, or even “home” remedies.

Ammonia is an aqueous solution of ammonia and has a strong pungent odor. Ammonia dissolves in water at room temperature at a concentration of about 25%, which is quite a lot, and it is still dangerous to use such a solution in everyday life and in a summer cottage. In case of contact with the skin, it should be washed off immediately with plenty of water. But, as a rule, less concentrated solutions are sold in hardware stores.

Most often, a 10% ammonia solution goes on open sale.

It is known that ammonia water(highly dilute ammonia solution) - excellent nitrogen fertilizer. But ammonia can also be used to prevent many diseases. garden plants. Most crops can be sprayed with it after flowering has ended. After treating strawberries with ammonia, ants, aphids, nematodes, and other pests do not appear on the beds for a long time. With regular spraying, you can also get rid of the weevil, root nematode, May beetle.

It is believed that during the season it is necessary to treat strawberries with ammonia three times:

• the first treatment is in early spring, with the growth of green leaves. On a bucket of water take 40 ml of ammonia (an aqueous solution of ammonia with a concentration of 10%). Plentifully water the bed from the watering can. The solution should at the same time get on the bushes, and on the soil under them. At the same time, in addition to fertilizer, they get rid of fungal diseases on the leaves and pests that wintered in the ground;
• the second treatment - after flowering. They take quite a bit of ammonia on a bucket of water, only 2-3 tbsp. l. After abundant watering a bed with strawberries is watered with a watering can with a prepared solution. It is a defense against most diseases. In addition, the second treatment is also a timely nitrogen fertilization;
• the third time - after the harvest. The solution is used the same composition as in the spring. This is charging and prevention for the next season.

Iodine is a weak oxidizing agent, perfectly disinfects in most cases, due to its antiseptic properties it can prevent the appearance of various bacterial diseases.

Iodine can be used to prevent bacterial diseases

By watering strawberries with an iodine solution in early spring, you can get rid of weevils that can destroy almost the entire crop. It is necessary to prepare a solution of only 0.5 tsp. pharmacy alcohol solution of iodine in a bucket of water. First, the bushes are abundantly watered with water, and then treated with the prepared solution.

Iodine on strawberry beds It is also used to combat gray rot and red spot. Spray strawberries 3 times per season: in early spring, before flowering and early autumn. A little liquid soap (about 1 tsp) can be added to the solution described above to help it stick to the leaves better.

It is believed that iodine is an effective immunomodulator: after its use, not only increased yield, but also the improvement of bushes, as well as an increase in the keeping quality of grown berries.

Hydrogen peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide (former name - peroxide) has unique properties. In the fight against pests and diseases of strawberries, its oxidizing (disinfecting) ability is most important.

Most likely, you can only purchase a 3% peroxide solution. A 30% solution ("perhydrol") is quite dangerous to handle.

Hydrogen peroxide consists of only two elements, but has unique properties

Hydrogen peroxide in the summer cottage is used in the processing of greenhouses, various containers, tools. The drug kills bacteria, viruses, pathogenic fungi. So what is better to choose for rot treatment - peroxide or iodine? Actually, the choice is yours. Depending on what is at hand. Peroxide leaves behind water and oxygen, iodine - potassium or sodium iodides. But their number, which is formed after the introduction of these drugs, is so small that it makes little sense to pay attention to this aspect. And with their disinfectant task, both drugs do an excellent job.

Hydrogen peroxide is probably the easiest and safest way to keep strawberries from rotting. It should be dissolved in 1 liter of water 2 tbsp. l. hydrogen peroxide (in severe cases - up to 3 tablespoons). The resulting solution is abundantly sprayed with all plantings of strawberries early in the morning or in the evening. The treatment is repeated after 1 week. This drug in the quantities used is completely non-toxic to both humans and bees. Therefore, you can collect and eat berries within a few hours after processing.

Bordeaux liquid is a suspension prepared from copper sulfate and lime (calcium oxide or hydroxide). When they interact, sparingly soluble copper hydroxide and calcium sulfate are formed, so handling the finished suspension is somewhat more difficult than with the solution: periodically shake the contents of the sprayer. As a rule, a kit is sold containing both components of the mixture, and often indicator paper to control the correct preparation of the liquid. First, according to the instructions, two solutions are prepared separately, and then they are carefully mixed, controlling the acidity of the medium by the indicator. To create a neutral or slightly alkaline environment, add the required amount of lime (in the form of "milk of lime").

Unappetizing-looking Bordeaux liquid is actually quite poisonous

Bordeaux liquid, unlike pure copper sulphate, adheres well to plants, acts more gently and for a long time. However, the mixture must be prepared strictly before use.

Bordeaux liquid has low toxicity for people, warm-blooded animals, and bees. However, it is known that copper, like any heavy metal, does not add health to a person in high doses, to put it mildly. Therefore, in last years the concept arose that the annual spraying of Bordeaux mixture leads to excessive accumulation of copper in the soil. Therefore, the use of copper preparations in the summer cottage is advised only in case of urgent need, no more than once every few years.

3% solution Bordeaux liquid for processing strawberries in early spring, they are used to prevent leaf spot. Later (closer to flowering, as well as in autumn), a 1% solution is already used for this purpose. Dosage - approximately 1.5 liters of liquid mixture per 10 m 2 of strawberry plantation. It is better to carry out the processing after harvesting and cleaning the beds from weeds and excess leaves. Spraying with this drug is carried out no more than 2 times per season.

Boric acid

Boric acid is weak, practically safe to handle, and cannot cause great harm to a person. It's a powder white color, slowly soluble in water, valuable source boron is an important trace element, therefore, fertilizer plays a role in the garden, first of all. This is especially important when cultivating strawberries on soddy-podzolic and light soils. Spraying bushes in early spring with a solution of boric acid is very favorable. There is an increase in the number of ovaries, boron stimulates the emergence of new growth points, the berries become sweeter. The introduction of boric acid can increase productivity, improve the sugar content of berries, and help protect plants from pathogenic microbes.

Usually boric acid is used together with potassium permanganate (the well-known "potassium permanganate").

Potassium permanganate is the strongest oxidizing agent, and it should be used in the smallest possible quantities.

So, in early spring, planting strawberries is shed with a solution of boric acid and potassium permanganate - 1 g per bucket of water. This volume is for feeding 30-40 strawberry bushes.

For foliar feeding strawberries in the spring use the following composition: take 2 g of potassium permanganate and boric acid per bucket of water, 1 tbsp. furnace ash. From the ashes, only a useful "hood" is needed. Therefore, it is insisted on for days separate container with water, remembering to stir from time to time. Before use, the infusion of ash should be filtered.

Ash

Ash is widely used as an individual "improvised" drug. A water "extract" from wood ash obtained from burning wood in a stove or on a fire is well suited for fertilizing strawberries.

Wood ash should be used as a fertilizer, and not the one that is formed after burning various household waste.

The ash contains most of the elements necessary for the development of strawberries (there is, perhaps, only nitrogen). These are phosphorus, potassium, calcium, many trace elements. In addition, wood ash is famous for its antibacterial and antiseptic properties. Thanks to the ash, the berries become sweeter, their keeping quality increases. Ash can be scattered between the rows in the garden. best time for this - the pre-rain period. After the rain, the most valuable thing in the ashes will pass into the soil. It is good to mulch the beds immediately after this.

Hot water

If you do not want to engage in chemical processing of a strawberry plantation, you can try to limit yourself to a physical one. The first thing that comes to mind is, of course, thermal disinfection. It is known that gooseberry and currant bushes are watered with almost boiling water in early spring. At the same time, most pests and pathogenic bacteria are destroyed. Of course, such a number is dangerous with strawberries: after all, it comes out of winter with green leaves! Therefore, they do not take boiling water, but simply hot water.

In the first decade of April, strawberry plantations are watered with hot water (temperature 60–65 o C, it is best to check with a thermometer). They heat water, of course, not far from the beds, scoop up any convenient utensils and quickly pour it into the center of the bush, capturing all the leaves if possible. Hot processing destroys the larvae of the transparent mite, raspberry-strawberry weevil, sawflies, mites and nematodes. Water, having passed through the soil to a depth of several centimeters, cools down to about 30 ° C, so you should not be afraid that the strawberry roots will be damaged.

Hot water also helps when planting strawberries. With its help, it is possible to disinfect seedlings (whiskers) for a preventive purpose. To do this, immerse the seedlings in water heated to 45 ° C and hold for 15 minutes.

Fire

It looks like barbarism, but such methods of struggle are also found on the network.

Mustaches begin to grow actively 10 days after harvest. I will wait another 4 days, when the earth dries up in the rows and between the rows, I cut off all the leaves, mustaches with pruners, and remove the weeds. At the same hour of the pre-ignited powerful blowtorch I burn the ground and completely burn the stalks of leaves remaining after cutting to ashes. I put the cut leaves and weeds in the compost. I also burn strawberry hearts, they are not afraid of being treated with fire for 10-20 seconds if they grow at or near the ground level. Only those that have crawled out of the ground, so that the roots are visible, will disappear.

Postnikov P.

http://chudo-ogorod.ru/zemlyanika-obrabotka-i-udobreniya

Remedies for weevil

They begin the fight in the spring, for which all damaged fragments of the bush must be carefully collected and destroyed. In the first days of May, the plantation is treated with long-acting biological preparations (Iskra, Askarin). Protection of plantings from the pest continues for several weeks. In case of severe infection, the second treatment is performed in the fall. At the same time, powerful insecticides are already being used, such as Karbofos, Corsair.

If you do not use chemistry, it is much more difficult to fight the weevil. Basic tricks:

• treatment of bushes with hot water in early spring;
• during the budding period - spraying with a solution laundry soap with mustard;
• manual collection of insects;
• spraying with infusion of tansy or red capsicum;
• the use of good "neighbors" in the garden: onions, garlic;
• processing with tobacco-garlic infusion or infusion of celandine and onion peel.

Video: how and how to process strawberries

All long winter we are waiting for the harvest of vitamin plants to finally appear in our garden. And in June a holiday comes: strawberries ripen - a juicy, sweet, fragrant berry. But besides us, competitors are waiting for her - garden pests. What means to choose in the fight against them is up to you. In most cases, earn the right to beautiful harvest strawberries are possible without the use of toxic drugs.