Powdery mildew on cucumbers. Preparations and folk methods of combating the disease. We fight powdery mildew on cucumber beds

Diseases of cucumbers are especially active in the second part summer period, which is associated with the occurrence of cold pre-dawn dews. Some of them attack plantings at the very beginning of the growing season. One of the most dangerous fungal diseases, which can provoke a large loss of yield, is called powdery mildew on cucumbers. How to recognize the disease and start taking action, what are the effective methods of prevention, read our article.

Favorable factors for the spread of the virus are warm and damp weather conditions. 3–4 days after heavy rainfall, outbreaks of powdery mildew can already be observed on cucumbers. She prefers temperatures in the range of 16–22 degrees and a high degree of humidity. Spore formation also requires an abundance of light. A decrease in the immunity of vegetable crops to pathogenic effects is facilitated by sharp changes in day and night air temperatures.

The causative agents of the virus often remain to live in last year's plant debris that overwintered on the site.

signs

Infection of plantings with ashpels is facilitated by certain plant conditions:

• cool and damp weather;
• thickened in excess of the landing rate;
• high nitrogen content in the soil structure;
• excessive drying and subsequent flooding of the earth;
• watering the site at the time when upper layer the ground is still quite wet.

The hallmark of the disease is a white fluffy coating on the surface of the foliage. The first signs of damage to cucumbers by a spore-bearing fungus are round shape whitish spots or reddish light. First they can be seen on the top of the sheet, and later on the bottom. Over time, they populate all green areas, up to shoots and roots. Some whips in the event of a severe defeat are able to dry out. The leaves become twisted, have a loose surface. Plants are weakened, there is an acute lack of oxygen, which often provokes their death.

Highly favorable conditions for the appearance of ashtrays, there are inside the greenhouse. There, the air humidity can go off scale up to 80% and there is drip moisture. The first signs of the disease can be observed near the open windows. Often it is possible to see the disease on the foliage of cucumbers, less often it is deployed on the cotyledons. The infection spreads from leaves and shoots located close to the soil surface. Fruits infected with the virus are prone to cracking and rotting.

Video "Signs of powdery mildew on greenhouse cucumbers"

See what they look like greenhouse cucumbers whose leaves are affected by powdery mildew.

How to fight

As soon as you notice the first signs of the disease, you should immediately take action. Before starting the treatment of plants, it is necessary to exclude any types of spraying, stop fertilizing, improve the degree of illumination of plantings, thin them out and remove old, as well as weakened leaves, cut off flower stalks. After such manipulations, it will be possible to fight effectively not only with the mycelium, but also with the spores of the fungus.

Modern gardeners and gardeners often use chemicals to fight fungal infection:

• Topaz, which is used by many to fight the virus, is a popular systemic drug, the active ingredient of which is penconazole. It is used for treatment at the rate of 1 ampoule of funds per 10 liters of water. Spray should be freshly prepared solution. The frequency of treatments is every 2 weeks. The drug in the process of treating plantings is moderately dangerous for human and animal health.
• Tilt CE for the treatment of plants with the active ingredient propiconazole is offered in convenient form emulsions. It tends to suppress the formation of spores. The effectiveness of the drug enhances heat environment. The agent quickly penetrates into the tissues of the plant. A solution to combat the disease is prepared at the rate of 0.4 - 0.5 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water. The protective effect shows a few hours after treatment and lasts more than 2 weeks. The product is dangerous for bees and fish.

Handle vegetable plantings to fight a fungal infection, you can also use the drugs Sulfarid, Bayleton, Fundazol, Previkur, Skor, Vitaros, Acrobat MC. In the initial stages of the disease, it is permissible to fight the disease with sulfur-containing drugs, such as Thiovit Jet or VDH. Effective and copper-containing - oxychloride, Bordeaux liquid in the proportion of 1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water.

Quite diverse are folk methods of struggle, which have proven themselves among gardeners for many years.

A soap-soda solution has always helped to get rid of a fungal infection. For its preparation, 5 grams are taken liquid soap, 25 grams soda ash for 5 liters of boiling water. It will be necessary to process the plants several times, after a break of 7–10 days.

Used to combat the disease and whey solution at the rate of 1 part per 10 parts of water. Processing is done 3 times with an interval of 3 days.

Decoction horsetail- 100 grams of horsetail per 1 liter of liquid. It is not difficult to prepare it. Horsetail is poured with water and aged for a day. It cools and strains. Before spraying it is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5. Plants are sprayed with it 3 times every 5 days.

Copper sulfate in the amount of 5 grams is combined with 50 grams of soap and 5 liters of water. The resulting emulsion should be treated with landings at least 2 times, taking a break of 1 week.

A mustard solution will also help in the treatment. To prepare it, 2 tablespoons of mustard powder are stirred in 10 liters of warm water. Next is watering the vegetables.

Among folk ways fighting, processing cucumbers with a solution of soap and ash is popular. It will require 1 kg of ash per 1 bucket of water. The solution should be infused for about 1 week. Before processing, which will be carried out every day or every other day, add a little soap.

A solution of rotted mullein will also come to the aid of cucumber plantings - 1 part to 3 parts of water. It is insisted for about 3 days. Before use, dilute with water, increasing the volume by 2 times.

Infusion of garlic - 50 grams per 2 liters of water. Garlic is crushed, placed for 1 day in cold water, then filtered.

Another recipe to fight the disease - 80 grams blue vitriol, 50 grams of soda ash, 10 liters of water.

You can try treatment with a solution of colloidal sulfur. To prepare it, you need 40 grams of sulfur per 10 liters of liquid.

In addition to powdery mildew, downy mildew, called penosporosis, is also distinguished. It is distinguished from powdery mildew by the presence of yellow spots on the surface of the leaves, not white. Since it is even more difficult to deal with it than with an ashtray, it is better to take preventive measures: you should not sow the seeds very densely, you need to follow the rules of crop rotation, you can not water the crops cold water required to harvest on time.

If the appearance of downy mildew could not be avoided, measures must be taken to treat it. This will help drugs such as Kuprosat, Ridomil, Oxychrome. Effective against the false form of the virus folk recipes, for example, spraying with whey in combination with blue vitriol (1 teaspoon per 3 liters of whey and 1 bucket of water).

How to warn

Experts advise growing such varieties of cucumbers that have a strong immunity to the disease. These are Ofix, Swallow, Phoenix, Darling, Octopus, Pasadeno, Pasamonte.

Sanitary cleaning of the territory (removal of plant residues and weeds from it), adherence to the rules of crop rotation (the return of pumpkin crops to their usual place no earlier than 3 years) are used as preventive measures. Preventive measures include isolating crops to keep the virus from spreading more than 20 meters away from similar crops. It is also required to regularly thin out plantings, remove old leaves from cucumbers that touch the surface of the earth. It is important not to make a lot of nitrogenous dressings, to feed crops with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in a timely manner.

There is a type of disease prevention tested by many gardeners.

Even before the leaves bloom, namely in early spring, shrubs on the site are scalded with boiling water. Do this quickly, using a watering can with a diffuser.

Such an effect does not harm plants waking up after hibernation, but leads to the death of fungal infections. It is permissible to resort to the help of a household steam cleaner - a jet of steam, which is supplied under high pressure, has a similar effect.

Video "Methods of counteracting powdery mildew"

In this video, an experienced gardener will tell you what to do to prevent and treat one of the most common fungal diseases that affect gardens and orchards.

We save cucumbers from powdery mildew With cucumbers, it is almost always a hassle - they will only gain strength, they will begin to bloom profusely, greens will appear, and there cucumbers will appear as they should, downy mildew attacks, or even viral diseases, fruit rot. Here we have to decide: to apply immediately potent chemicals or try simpler, old ones. I choose the latter. And these funds help my cucumbers. If I notice that cucumbers are unhealthy, I first treat (spray) with a weak solution of urea - 1 g per 1 liter. In the fight against diseases of cucumbers, I also use a solution of milk with the addition of iodine. I prepare this solution as follows: I take 10 parts of water and 1 part of milk, drip 5-10 drops of iodine there and carefully spray cucumber lashes on both sides. If I notice signs of white or gray rot, I sprinkle the diseased, affected areas with crushed coal or chalk, and remove all diseased cucumbers from the site away. So that cucumbers do not get sick with powdery mildew, for prevention, I spray young lashes every week, until cucumbers appear, with the following solution: one tablespoon of baking soda is dissolved in 4 liters of water. And, of course, I water the cucumbers only with warm water.

It happens that you grow beautiful seedlings of cucumbers according to all the rules, water, feed, rejoice at the first ovaries and look forward to picking sweet, refreshing fruits ... And you pick a cucumber, and suddenly it is bitter! Or cucumbers begin to turn yellow ahead of time. Why does such annoyance happen? Cucurbitacin is to blame. Bitter cucumbers look no different from their usual brothers - the same bright green, pleasantly smelling, with a crispy crust. And the taste is disappointing. Of course, you can cut the peel, but it contains the most useful vitamins and minerals. Garden and cottage - the most useful community for summer residents! Subscribe and invite friends

All the secrets of a rich harvest

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The cause of bitterness is the substance cucurbitacin. It is found in all cucumbers, but some have more, while others, such as hybrids, have less. The amount of cucurbitacin can increase due to lack of moisture, irregular watering, excess sun, direct exposure sun rays, lack of nitrogen-potassium fertilizers, abundance of moisture on cold days. Also, the fruits can be bitter if you took the seeds from the back. seed cucumber. The content of cucurbitacin also increases with inaccurate harvesting, when cucumber lashes are damaged and twisted. The fruits begin to taste bitter and if after the heat there comes a long cold snap with rains. More attentive to watering To prevent an increase in cucurbitacin, water cucumbers with warm water, increasing the dose of moisture on hot sunny days and stopping on cool ones. It is necessary to moisten the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm. In the heat, it is also desirable to spray the plants with water in the mornings or in the evenings. It is better to feed with potassium nitrate and complex fertilizers with a balanced composition of nutrients. Remember that cucumbers hate fresh manure. You can play it safe by buying varieties and hybrids that contain a gene that prevents cucurbitacin from accumulating. In this case, it is written on the package with seeds that the fruits will not be bitter. The downside is that, most often, such cucumbers are less soft with a not too expressive taste. If the cucumbers have already grown bitter, they can be pickled or pickled - during processing, cucurbitacin is split.

Why do they turn yellow? Cucumbers turn yellow if: - they do not have enough light; - the earth dries up; - on one plant more than 20-25 ovaries; - little phosphorus and nitrogen; - for several consecutive seasons, cucumbers grow in the same place, which is why fungal spores and infections collect in the ground. Do not spare extra shoots To keep cucumbers green, it is also important to water them properly. It is desirable to use settled water. During fruiting, give the plants more moisture. Water in the morning on sunny days, and in the evening on cloudy days. The yellowness of the fruit is also caused by poor soil with a lack of nutrition. It is useful to apply a solution of mullein and complex mineral fertilizers. But observe the measure - an overdose is also harmful. If more than 25 ovaries form on the plant, pinch off new shoots, otherwise they will delay the formation of greens. When there are too many ovaries, small, ugly fruits are formed from them, which quickly turn yellow and begin to deteriorate. Ladybugs Help! Cucumbers also turn yellow due to diseases. If you notice white or light yellow dots on the leaves that develop into spots, then the plants were attacked. spider mite. He braids the leaves from below with an almost imperceptible cobweb and drinks juice from them. The pest is difficult to notice, its size is only 0.5 mm. To combat it, collect the affected leaves in a bucket and burn or bury deep in the ground. During the growing season, it is desirable to treat cucumbers several times with insecticides, for example, Agravertin, Fosbecid. You can spray with Karbofos, especially paying attention to the lower part of the leaves. So that the spider mite does not bother, it is better to destroy the weeds around the plants more often. Garden and cottage - the most useful community for summer residents! Subscribe and invite friends

All the secrets of a rich harvest

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small insect melon aphid she loves not only zucchini and pumpkins, she really likes cucumbers too. It settles on the lower part of the leaves, flowers, ovaries and shoots, and the plant begins to curl and dry. In the fight against it, it is also important to remove weeds in time. And ladybugs that feed on aphids can also help out. We treat in time Cucumbers often suffer from fungal diseases. For example, from gray rot on the stem and in the places of branching, large gray or brown spots appear, and on the fruits - a gray fluffy coating. Then many male flowers appear, empty flowers rot and healthy areas are affected. Sore spots should be sprinkled with ash and temporarily stop watering. If the disease does not stop, remove the damaged parts and burn them. To make rot less of a concern, do not plant cucumbers too densely. Whitish or reddish spots on the leaves are powdery mildew. Dust unhealthy areas with wood ash or remove altogether. You can spray cucumbers with a solution of mullein or colloidal sulfur.

Cucumbers. Their curly two- and three-meter vines with large leaves, which are akin to maple, are strewn with more than a dozen cherished greens with pretty yellow flowers. With the exception of the latter, each puzzle of such a wonderful plot is presented in turquoise and salad colors. And it also happens that you have to "beat the bells." The reason for this is powdery mildew on cucumbers. Already something, but she knows how to bring dullness into the colorful days of a summer resident. In addition to it, there is also the so-called. downy mildew (peronosporosis), due to which the leaves of cucumbers are first covered with colorless pigments from the wrong side. Quickly corroding the layer of "tops", fungal spores come out already in the form of small brown blotches. It is good that the control measures for ordinary powdery mildew and downy mildew are the same.

Shaking will not help - need "surgery"

Downy mildew on cucumbers

• Firstly, it is better to use scissors or secateurs to remove diseased cucumber foliage, because. thick stalks are difficult to tear by hand;
• Secondly, the cut of the stalk should be done at a distance of 2-3 cm from the main stem, so that in the future the cucumber spends less energy on the problem area, while receiving an infected liquid in return;
• Thirdly, the remaining tip immediately releases juice, and this is stress for the plant. To stop the "bleeding", the knot must be smeared with garden pitch or pollinated with wood ash;
• Fourthly, it is advisable to burn the cut-out "tops" or at least carry them away from the beds.

In general, pruning of cucumber leaves should be carried out with the incidence of mosaic, fusarium, etc. But after all, spores of harmful fungi, flying through the air, can easily cover the entire plant. Accordingly, in the fight against dew, it is better to focus on the growing conditions than to treat the symptoms themselves, which is precisely the disease.

On a note! When neglected, ordinary and downy mildew on cucumbers go into an acute phase, making the affected parts yellow and dry. Powdery mildew and downy mildew also affect grapes, gooseberries, peaches, tomatoes, beets, garden roses, cucurbits

Video "Downy mildew on cucumbers, control measures"

Moisture moisture strife

As mushrooms grow in the forest after a long downpour, so the spores of the harmful mycelium of powdery mildew cover vegetable, horticultural crops after regular spraying and even watering. The culprit was found out - excessive humidity.

And we are talking about the high humidity of the air and the earth at the same time: the soil evaporates moisture upwards, making the atmosphere "bath". Therefore, powdery mildew on cucumbers in a greenhouse is less common than on cucumbers growing in the open: in the unstable climate of Russia, the temperature of + 20-25 ° C sometimes alternates + 15-18 ° C, which contributes to the formation of "hoarfrost" on the upper and big leaves. The corresponding fluctuation often occurs in May and August, when the cucumbers are young or ripe. But the retention of moisture inside the soil provokes excessive evaporation, due to which the lower leaves of the cucumber “rust”, because. suffer from downy mildew.

To reduce the risk of the onset of diseases, growing young cucumbers through seedlings, as well as their prevention, make sense by default. In this case, much attention will have to be paid to watering. It must be carried out strictly according to the schedule, guided by the conditions of growth:

How to properly water cucumbers

Powdery mildew on cucumbers, how to water

The question is, how to get rid of powdery mildew, which is caused by excessive moisture, if cucumbers have to be watered quite often? It's simple - you need to use an integrated approach:

• Firstly, the irrigation regime implies not only the schedule, but also the water consumption. This indicator varies depending on the age of the cucumbers (than more bush, the greater the consumption), but in any case, the volume of water consumed should be such that by the time of the next watering, the land where the crop grows has time to dry out a little;
• Secondly, cucumbers do not tolerate cool and especially cold water. She stands idle in the ground for a long time and causes stress in the plant, due to which the leaves and greens are twisted;
• Thirdly, the prevention of powdery mildew necessarily implies the enrichment of the soil with phosphorus and potassium. The last element is rich in wood ash, which is why it is so often advised to pollinate the ground and cucumber leaves. Phosphorus releases superphosphate and complex fertilizers. But from the root top dressing nitrogen fertilizers like saltpeter or urea should be flatly refused, because. they increase the acidity of the soil, after which the latter becomes heavy, which worsens the ventilation of the root system;
• Fourth, downy mildew first covers the lower leaves, which indicates waterlogging of the earth. In order for the latter to evaporate less moisture, it is recommended to cover it with mulch in the form of straw, tree leaves or agrofibre. By the way, with a mulched layer, the soil stores more moisture, so the watering schedule can be reduced;
• Fifth, cucumbers should be provided with good lighting. Shade reduces air temperature and promotes humidity, so green vegetable beds must be cleared of weeds and thinned out. This is especially true for seedlings, which individual gardeners often plant densely;
• Sixth, a small but constant watering is better than a heavy one. Accordingly, it is advantageous to moisten the soil with a drip tape than with a watering can. The use of the latter is a tradition for many, and because of it, water often gets on the stems and leaves of the vegetable, which only contributes to powdery mildew on cucumbers.

On a note

The soil is of different types - sandy, loamy, peat, sod. The latter is a good option for growing cucumbers, but in order to get it, you need to go to the planting forest. Sandy loam soil does not store moisture well, loamy soil is viscous, peat soil is nutritious, but “sour”. Therefore, to prevent various diseases, including powdery mildew, cucumbers must be grown in mixed peat-turf substrates.

But how to fight for the future health of cucumbers if there is no way to prepare universal soil? It's simple: when choosing a site, it makes sense to at least be guided by a vegetable crop that grew a season earlier. The fact is that the land can be infected, therefore, for a cucumber, the best predecessors are legumes and root crops; acceptable - tomato, cabbage and bulbous; the worst are potatoes and cucurbits, especially the cucumber itself”

Powdery mildew resistant cucumber variety

Choose a variety of cucumbers resistant to powdery mildew

The fight against powdery mildew on cucumbers can be completely eliminated if resistant hybrids of cucumbers are used. They are bred by breeders by crossing several varieties in wet conditions. The label "F1" indicates hybridity. Among the relevant representatives, the most well-established are:

• Anyuta F1;
• Voyage F1;
• Dear F1;
• Pasadena F1;
• Octopus F1;
• Goosebump F1;
• Boy with a finger F1;
• Dear F1;
• Crane F1;
• Fontanel F1;
• Phoenix plus F1;
• Benefit F1;
• Sir F1;
• Princess F1;
• Ibn Sina F1;
• Julian F1 and others

Moreover, individual hybrids have complex resistance to common cucumber diseases - ascochitosis, mosaic, fusarium, tobacco mosaic. Adequate immunity is not a guaranteed panacea. Moreover, when choosing cucumber seeds, it is also necessary to pay attention to their ability to self-pollinate, early maturity, taste qualities, suitability for preservation, etc.

We use drugs

Despite the abundance of methods and means to prevent "whiteness" and "rust", many vegetable growers, hoping for a chance, are faced with a thematic misfortune "on the forehead", and only then they take up the treatment of powdery mildew on cucumbers. Well, better late than never. The following table suggests considering the most effective drugs in the fight against powdery mildew.

Table "Preparations for powdery mildew"

• On a note!

In order to prevent downy mildew, control measures were minimized, it is better to spray cucumbers with biofungicides and fungicides in advance - 2-3 times during the entire growing season, i.e. every 2.5 weeks.

Although biofungicides can be used during fruiting, vegetables treated with them are allowed to be consumed 2-3 days after treatment. Also pleased with the presence of useful micro- and macroelements in the composition of biofungicides.

Folk remedies

In addition to industrial preparations, powdery mildew can be fought with folk remedies. They are less effective, but economical and natural, which makes them suitable for use even during the period of active formation of ovaries.

• Soap and soda solution.

When stirring a teaspoon of soda and soap in 10 liters of water, a good antifungal solution is obtained, which must be sprayed on cucumbers once a week for 2-3 weeks.

• Horsetail solution.

To prepare this remedy, you must first boil “tea” from 100 grams for 2 hours. field grass and a liter of water. Next, one part of the solution should be diluted with 5 parts of water, after which the solution is ready for spraying. Processing is carried out 4 times every 3-4 days.

• Infusion of garlic.

To the question “powdery mildew on cucumbers, what to do?” was resolved in a week, you can insist medium garlic in water at room temperature. The resulting tincture remains to be filtered so that it does not clog the spray bottle.

On a note! To prepare a soap-soda solution, instead of ordinary soap, it is better to use tar. The process of dissolving soap is accelerated if it is liquid. Also, powdery mildew mycelium does not tolerate wood ash: natural soot absorbs moisture and generally serves as an excellent disinfecting septic tank. Accordingly, it is very beneficial to use it in conjunction with folk remedies.

Video "Powdery mildew on cucumbers, what to do"

Prevention of infection of cucumbers with powdery mildew

Cucumber, although a moisture-loving vegetable, should not be overzealous with its watering. Otherwise, powdery mildew on a cucumber will not take long to eliminate, the measures to eliminate which are as follows:

• resistant hybrid "F1";
• Planting in well-lit and high-quality soil, where a foreign culture previously grew;
• Laying a mulch layer on top of the topsoil;
• Optimal watering regime;
• Top dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers;
• Thinning and loosening beds;
• Preventive spraying.

It turns out that powdery mildew is easier to prevent than to treat. A comprehensive preventive approach seems complicated, but it is better to apply it in a timely manner than to lose 50-100% of the crop due to disorganization.

Video "Agronomist's word about cucumbers"

Powdery mildew disease causes a lot of trouble for the owners of garden and garden plots. This disease strikes vegetable crops as well as fruit trees and shrubs. It is not easy to prevent its appearance, it is even more difficult to get rid of it in order to save infected plants. But before using certain preparations for powdery mildew, you need to make sure that it is she who is the cause of the problems that have arisen.

Signs of powdery mildew damage

Powdery mildew's calling card is a whitish-gray bloom. Thin and like dust at the beginning, it gradually begins to thicken and blacken over time. Small brown balls form on the upper side of the leaves. Diseased leaves dry up, the shoots are bent at the ends, darken and die.

Whitish mealy spots may appear on the leaves of roses, grapes or cucumbers. In the first stage, even before the formation of plaque, infected leaves become dull, lose their elasticity or wrinkle slightly.

Most often, the infection begins its destructive effect from those leaves and shoots that are near the ground. Gradually, it rises higher and captures the entire plant, including petioles and stalks. Infected fruits usually crack and rot.

Causes of Powdery Mildew

In order to find effective means from powdery mildew, one must clearly understand where and why it arises.

fungus spores, disease-causing powdery mildew plants live in the soil. They are almost always there. But they begin to manifest themselves only under certain conditions. Yes, in the sun warm weather, with sufficient watering and optimal nutrition, plants rarely become infected with this fungus. But it is worth the ambient temperature to drop to 12 - 15 ° C and hold out for about a week, as alarming begins to appear on the leaves. white coating.

Gardeners have long noticed that not all plants get sick. Even pampered cucumbers in a greenhouse can remain intact if they are not overfed with nitrogen and not exhausted by too much moisture. The fungus also does not settle where fertilizing was made on time and thinning was carried out.

What factors contribute to powdery mildew infection? As practice shows, this is:

- cool cloudy and damp weather, when the air humidity exceeds 80%;
- the presence of excess nitrogen in the soil;
- heavily thickened landings;
- the soil often dries out, and then is poured;
- Watering is done when the topsoil is still wet.

The spores of the fungus awakened in this way can also be transmitted to other plants. They are easily carried through the air, along with water, even through the hands of a person who has touched an infected leaf or branch.

Powdery mildew prevention

Like most other plant diseases, powdery mildew is easier to prevent than to cure. Therefore, prevention is the first remedy against such a fungus. And any prevention is, first of all, the right agricultural technology. To minimize the risk of infection, you must:

- regularly thin out plantings;
- remove old leaves in contact with the ground;
- water the plants only after the top layer of the earth is completely dry;
- do not abuse nitrogen fertilizers;
- in time to carry out phosphorus-potassium top dressing.

Another type of prevention against powdery mildew can be carried out in early spring, before the leaves bloom. Berry bushes and other perennials are simply scalded with boiling water. This must be done quickly, using a watering can with a diffuser. All branches should be poured over as a whole, without lingering for a long time in any one place.

The short term impact is very hot water does not have time to harm plants that have not yet fully woken up after winter. But spores, mycelium, as well as pathogens of other diseases, die. A similar effect is exerted by a jet of steam under pressure, obtained using a household steam cleaner.

Powdery mildew treatment

For a successful fight against powdery mildew, it is necessary to destroy not only the mycelium, but also the spores of the fungus. At the first signs of the onset of the disease, you should:

- completely eliminate any spraying;
- refuse to fertilize those beds where affected specimens are seen;
- if possible, improve the illumination of plants;
- thin out plantings and remove all weak and old leaves, cut off flower stalks;
- if the plant is in a pot or container, it is advisable to replace the earth in its upper part;
- watering or dousing with the use of one or another agent for powdery mildew;
- handle medicinal product not only leaves, but all shoots and stems; potted plants you can simply dip into a basin, bath or other container filled with a solution.

For treatment, you can use proven folk remedies, or purchase ready-made chemicals.

Folk remedies for powdery mildew

1. Soap and soda solution:

- soda ash - 25 grams;
- liquid soap - 5 grams;
- hot water - 5 liters.

Soda is dissolved in water, while soap is added. After cooling, the plants and the upper layer of the earth adjacent to them are sprayed. This should be done at least twice, with an interval of 7-10 days.

Another variant:

— baking soda- 1 tablespoon;
- liquid soap - 0.5 teaspoon;
- water - 4 liters.

All parts are mixed well and the plants are sprayed 3 times at intervals of no more than a week.

2. Whey solution:

- serum - 1 part;
- water - 10 parts.

The plants are treated 3 times at three-day intervals, so that a film forms on the leaves that prevents the mycelium from breathing. The tool is effective only in dry weather.

3. A decoction of horsetail:

- fresh horsetail grass - 100 grams;
- water - 1 liter.

Horsetail is poured with water and kept for a day. Then boil on fire for two hours. Then they cool and filter. The resulting concentrate can be stored in a cool and dark place for about a week. Before spraying, the product is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5. Processing is carried out three to four times every five days.

4. Solution of copper sulphate with soap:

- copper sulfate - 5 grams;
- soap - 50 grams;
- water - 5 liters.

Soap is dissolved in warm water. Vitriol is diluted separately using a glass of hot water. A solution of vitriol is carefully combined with soap, pouring in a thin stream and constantly stirring. The resulting emulsion is treated with affected plants several times at weekly intervals.

5. mustard solution:

— mustard powder- 2 tablespoons;
- water - 10 liters.

Mustard is stirred in warm water. After cooling, you can either spray or simply water the plants.

6. Soap solution with ash:

- ash - 1 kilogram;
- water - 1 bucket.

Water is heated to about 40 ° C and ash is poured into it. The solution is thoroughly mixed and infused for about a week. After that, they are drained, separating and removing the ash suspension collected at the bottom. Before spraying, add a little soap to the solution. It is necessary to process every other day or daily.

7. Infusion of the rotted cow dung ;

- rotted manure - 1 part;
- water - 3 parts.

Manure is poured with cold water and left to infuse for at least three days. Before spraying, dilute with water twice.

8. Garlic infusion:

- garlic - 50 grams;
- water - 2 liters.

Garlic is crushed and dipped in cold water. After standing for a day, drain and filter. The solution is used for spraying undiluted.

9. Copper sulfate and soda ash:

- copper sulfate - 80 grams;
- water - 10 liters;
- soda ash - 50 grams;
- water - 10 liters.

In the spring, even before bud break, they are sprayed with a solution of vitriol, and after flowering is over, with soda ash.

10. Colloidal sulfur solution:

- sulfur - 40 grams;
- water - 10 liters.

The tool is well suited for spraying currants during periods of its growth. But we must remember that it cannot be used for gooseberries.

Special chemicals for powdery mildew

« Topaz "- a popular systemic fungicide used for the treatment and prevention of fungal diseases. The active substance is penconazole. For spraying currants, gooseberries, grapes, cucumbers and strawberries, one ampoule is diluted in 10 liters of water. For flowers and potted crops - in 5 liters. Spray only with a freshly prepared solution, evenly wetting the entire plant. The treatment is repeated after about two weeks. The protective action lasts up to 14 days. The drug belongs to the third hazard class - toxic to fish, but not dangerous to beneficial insects and birds. It is considered moderately dangerous to animals and humans.

« Tilt CE » is a systemic fungicide. It is used as a preventive and protective agent. The active substance is propiconazole. Available as an emulsion concentrate. Has a long duration of action further development diseases, inhibits the formation of fungal spores. Elevated air temperature favorably affects the work of the drug, enhancing its effectiveness. "Tilt KE" has a high rain resistance, as it quickly penetrates into plant tissues.

A working solution with a concentration of 0.4 to 0.5 ml per liter of water must be prepared immediately before use. It is not recommended for use at air temperatures exceeding 29 ° C, accompanied by a humidity of less than 60%. The protective effect exceeds half a month and begins to appear within two hours after the end of treatment. Dangerous for fish and bees.

To combat the spread of powdery mildew, drugs are also used: Byleton », « Sulfaride », « Fundazol », « Previcour », « Acrobat MC », « Speed », « Vitaros " other.

indasad.ru

Diseases of cucumbers in the greenhouse

Cucumbers are a heat-loving crop that requires proper care, nutrition, shaping, watering and fertilizing. Cucumbers also need protection from pests, diseases and weeds.

All the most common diseases are infectious.

Diseases and factors of their occurrence

Diseases that cucumbers in a greenhouse are susceptible to are associated with such factors:

• improper conditions for caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse;
• long time soil is used;
• incorrect selection of crops, in the neighborhood and predecessors;
• creation of an artificial microclimate;
• inability to grow cucumbers;
• drought;
• lack of nutrients, minerals and fertilizers;
• too much watering.

The most common cucumber pests are melon aphid, spider mite, sprout fly.

The most common cucumber diseases are:

• root and root rot;
• gray and white rot;
• withering;
• powdery mildew;
• ascochitosis;
• bacteriosis;
• downy mildew;
• olive blotch;
• brown spotting;
• anthracnose;
• alternariosis;
• black mold.

These are the most common cucumber diseases in the greenhouse, but, in general, there are many more of them. All of the above diseases are infectious. That is, they are passed from plant to plant. In this regard, it is necessary to take measures for disinfection, to fight the reproduction of infection. Cucumber pests most commonly found in greenhouses:

• melon aphid;
• spider mite;
• sprout fly.

Useful tips for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

1. In no case should cucumbers be planted in the ground where zucchini, pumpkin and cucumbers grew.
2. Planting cucumbers should be alternated. The best precursors for cucumbers should be: potatoes, beans and tomatoes.
3. Cucumbers can be planted in the place where they have already grown before, not earlier than 3 years.
4. Cucumbers need to be watered only with warm water and only under the root.
5. Cucumbers should be tied up, otherwise they may face many fungal infections.
6. Before planting vegetables in a greenhouse, you need to prepare the soil for planting and the premises of the greenhouse. It must correspond to the correct temperature regime in summer, and in winter, and at night, and during the day.

Adhering to such simple rules, many problems can be avoided when growing cucumbers. To fight infectious diseases of vegetables, you need to know what signs this or that disease gives. Need to check out all typical diseases, then it will be easier to treat the plants. Every disease is cured different ways, the principle of treating cucumbers, just like in humans, cannot be treated with one remedy. It is better to understand the cause and deeply study the disease, how it manifests itself and what it threatens. And only then treat. It happens that gardeners can treat cucumbers at random with some kind of solution, but the disease will not go away. It turns out that the waste of time and money will go to waste. In order to have a result, you need to have full knowledge of the information. Skill comes with experience. Before planting cucumbers, novice gardeners, all the more, need to study the characteristics of diseases and pests in order to protect and save the future crop.

Basal and root rot

Causes of white rot: high humidity air in the greenhouse, a poorly ventilated greenhouse and a large planting of vegetables.

Brief description and signs of cucumber disease in greenhouses The roots and stems at the roots become brown, stained, dry, the leaves also become stained and lie on the ground. The roots can exfoliate, darken and dry. As a result, the plant stuns and dies. The source of the disease The causative agent of infection are pathogenic fungi that live in the soil. They can even be stored in seeds, and when planted, they begin to appear. Fungi infect both young plants and adults. Causes of the disease Infection can appear with a sharp drop temperature regime. If you pour cucumbers with cold water or hot water, then the risk of infecting the plant increases.

Gray and white rot

White rot.

Her signs:

If the stem becomes wet and covered with a white bloom like cotton wool, then this is white rot. It affects the stem and tops at the branching points. The causative agent of the disease is a polyphage fungus. It affects not only cucumbers, but also many other vegetables. Causes of the disease: high humidity in the greenhouse, poorly ventilated greenhouse and a large planting of vegetables leads to infection of cucumbers with white rot.

Gray rot.

Signs:

To combat gray rot in cucumbers, it is required to sprinkle the affected areas of plants with chalk, moisten with a solution of copper sulfate (0.5%).

Wet spots appear on the stem, fruits, flowers and leaves. There is a gray coating and black dots. The causative agent is the fungus Botrytis cinerea. Causes of the disease: gray rot, like white, appears due to low ventilation, high humidity air in the greenhouse. Bacteria live on the greenhouse structure and in the soil.

Sprinkle the affected areas of plants with chalk, moisten with a solution of copper sulfate (0.5%). The soil infected with rot is selected and it is not allowed to plant cucumbers in this place for 2 years.

Signs:

The leaves become sluggish, the plant lies on the ground. The stems turn white with a pink or white coating.

• pathogens are pathogenic fungi that penetrate the plant through the root;
• the cause of infection is too dense earth, not loosened. Roots in hard ground do not grow and develop well, water does not reach them, and therefore the plant is inhibited in growth, the fruits become small and not tasty.

Fight: Loosening the soil under the plants and timely watering is required to avoid wilting.

Pathogens infect the leaves of plants. The leaves are covered with a gray-pink bloom. Then black dots appear on the leaves, the leaf surface withers and dries, the plant dies. The source of bacteria is brought from the open ground.

Sources of infection are located near the doors, windows of the greenhouse and heating pipes.

The cause of this disease is a draft and a sharp temperature drop.

1. If signs of plaque appear, the plants are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 12 liters of water).
2. 250 g of onion peel is poured into 12 liters of hot water, infused for 1.5 days, filtered, and then plants are processed with infusion.

Ascochitosis

Signs:

Wet spots, black dots, watery places form in the root part of the plant, which cause the plants to dry out. The leaves first turn yellow, then dry up, and then the whole plant dies. The infection is transmitted through water, drops and air currents. The humidity of the air and the weakening of plants leads to the fact that bacteria multiply better.

Plant residues are removed. If it is possible to preserve the cucumber, then the plant is sprayed with a composition consisting of water, figon - 0.2%, cineba - 0.6%.

bacteriosis

The fight against bacteriosis of cucumber consists in spraying with Bordeaux liquid (1%) or using copper oxychloride (0.60%), cineba (0.60%).

The disease manifests itself as follows: black spots appear on the corners of the leaves. The corners dry up, and soon the entire leaf becomes damaged, covered in spots, sores and holes. The plant becomes like it was being pecked by birds. The infection spreads through drops of water. A good environment for the reproduction of bacteriosis is the air temperature from +16 to +20 degrees.

Control: plants are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1%) or copper oxychloride (0.60%), cineba (0.60%) is used.

downy mildew

The disease manifests itself as white round and angular spots on the leaves. A gray coating may appear on the stem and foliage. Diseased leaves become brittle and curl. With a strong infection, the plant dies. The infection is transmitted by droplets with high humidity and a temperature of +20 degrees.

1. Mix skimmed milk (1 l) with 8 l of water and add 10 drops of iodine 5%.
2. Ash (0.5 l) is brewed with 2.5 l of boiled water, infused for 30 minutes, more water is added to 8 l.

In the first and second variants, the plants must be sprayed with the resulting consistency.

Olive (brown) spotting

Most often, this disease affects the fruits of cucumbers and develops in greenhouses that are covered with film material. Bacteria live on the structures of cultivation equipment and structures. Spotting appears on fruits in the form of spots, olive color and then the spots develop into sores. The plant stops growing.

Struggle: the greenhouse is fumigated for 2 days with the help of sulfur dioxide (sulfur checkers), thorough cleaning both inventory and everything where plaque is present. You can repeat if necessary.

Anthracnose

Another disease is called copperhead.

To get rid of anthracnose, cucumbers are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1.5%) or a 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur.

Appears on leaves, but also on stems. Signs are plaque spots, which then crumble the leaves. Spots may be single or may be numerous. Then the leaf turns black and falls off. Bacteria are transmitted through the air and droplets. May remain in seeds and plant debris in the ground or on the surface.

Control: all plant residues are removed, sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1.5%) or 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur.

black mold

It is characterized by the formation of small spots, at first barely noticeable with black dots. Then the spots get bigger. Conditions for reproduction is high humidity. The disease leads to the death of the leaf and the death of the plant as a whole.

Fight: try to plant cucumbers in a drier place in the garden. It is better to water more often than to be left without a crop.

Cucumber pests in greenhouses

melon aphid

Pests in the greenhouse - aphids, sit on inside leaves, stems and flowers. After damage to the plant, the aphid helps it to curl up and the leaves fall off. Aphids carry diseases to all plants, thus they can infect the entire greenhouse. After damage to the plant, it slows down growth and dies.

Aphids and a means to combat it: treatment with a solution of laundry soap with lye, or you can take wood ash with soap. 100 g soap, 200 g lye, 200 g wood ash and 10 liters of water.

Fight against a tick: the plant must be treated with water, sprayed with a solution of water mixed with garlic. You also need to remove weeds.

Pests of cucumbers in greenhouse conditions - mites, sit on leaves and stems. After a leaf is bitten by a tick, it turns yellow, dries up and dies.

Fight against a tick: the plant must be treated with water, sprayed with a solution of water mixed with garlic. You also need to remove weeds, and in the fall it is good to dig up the soil.

growth fly

The fly is also a pest in the greenhouse. She lays her eggs in the soil. When sprouting cucumbers, the fly harms them the most. It feeds on the nectar of flowers, lays larvae and has three stages: egg, pupa and adult insect. After the disease of cucumber sprouts, they acquire a bluish color and soon die.

Fly Fighting: Processing chemical solutions. They need to spray young sprouts.

Disease and pest control

• when growing cucumbers closed ground you need to adhere to the correct temperature regime +18 at night and not higher than +26 during the day;
• sudden changes in temperature should not be allowed;
• well ventilate the room;
• when plants are damaged, they are removed, leaving only intact ones;
• a draft is an enemy for vegetables in a greenhouse. It must not be allowed;
• use fertilizers, organic substances;
• to protect the plants, you need to treat the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe greenhouse with chemical fertilizers;
• Before planting, you need to prepare and cultivate the soil. In advance, in the fall you need to fertilize. In the spring, repeat the process;

In greenhouse conditions, vegetables are at risk of catching diseases in the same way as in open ground.

ParnikiTeplicy.com

Plant diseases: powdery mildew and downy mildew

The development of plants and the appearance of the crop are often hindered not only by pests, but also by various diseases: powdery mildew, peronosporosis, clamp rot, coccomitosis, anthracnose, rust and many other fungal diseases.

In this article, we will talk about how to deal with powdery mildew and the treatment of downy mildew (transferosis).

powdery mildew is one of the most common fungal diseases affecting cucurbits. It is usually found in greenhouses and greenhouses, but under favorable weather conditions(high air temperature and humidity) spreads rapidly in open ground.

Peronosporosis affects cucumbers, melon, pumpkin, watermelon, as well as plants of the haze family. More often than other plants, parsley, parsnips, celery, dill, as well as cucumbers, zucchini, cabbage, peas, onions, and beets are infected with this disease.

Powdery mildew control measures and its photo

As you can see in the photo, powdery mildew is a white coating on the leaves and causes the plants to dry out. With severe damage, white spots also appear on the stem and fruits.

The rapid spread of powdery mildew in protected ground conditions is facilitated by sharp fluctuations in temperature, drafts, and watering plants with cold water. Outdoors, powdery mildew spreads rapidly with the onset of persistent hot weather and with the appearance of dew.

The causative agents of the disease persist on plant debris and on weeds.

In open ground, it is recommended to grow varieties resistant to powdery mildew. Plant residues, as well as diseased plants, should be burned or buried in the soil to a depth of at least 40 cm. In autumn, the soil must be carefully dug up and crop rotation observed, that is, plants should be planted in their original place no earlier than after 3 years.

One of the measures to combat powdery mildew is to smear the leaves and stems with ground or colloidal sulfur using a cotton swab. Further, if necessary, the plants should be treated with a suspension of colloidal sulfur or mullein infusion.

To prevent the disease, the temperature regime should be observed. The daytime temperature in the greenhouse should be 24-26 °C during the day, and 20 °C at night.

Given fungal disease infects the leaves and stems of beans and peas, which turn yellow and dry out. At the same time, powdery plaque, consisting of fungal spores, is clearly visible on the affected organs. The disease can persist for a long time on plant debris. The development of infection occurs at an air temperature of 20-25 ° C and a relative humidity of 70-80%. To protect legumes from powdery mildew, sources of infection should be destroyed, as well as preventive measures should be taken, which include treating plants with sulfur preparations 2-3 times every 10-15 days.

How to deal with downy mildew and photos of peronosporosis

Peronosporosis affects the leaves of plants. It develops both indoors and outdoors and often leads to the death of plants.

Pay attention to the photo of downy mildew - at first these are oily spots on the leaves, which then turn into brown ones. On the underside, a purple coating of fungal spores is clearly visible. The pathogen can persist in soil and plant debris for 5-6 years. There are no varieties resistant to the disease.

The spread of peronosporosis is facilitated by high humidity and air temperature, therefore, to protect plants in protected ground, an optimal microclimate should be maintained. Air humidity should be no higher than 80%, and air temperature at night should not be lower than 20-22 °C. Downy mildew can persist in the soil and on plant debris, so autumn soil digging should be carried out and plant residues should be burned.

To protect pumpkin crops from peronosporosis, they are sprayed with a 0.4% solution of copper oxychloride, a 0.4% solution of polycarbacin or Bordeaux liquid. To prepare it, mix 100 g of lime and 100 g of copper sulfate with 10 liters of water. Before planting in open ground, seedlings are recommended to be fed with ammonium nitrate.

When growing crops in greenhouses, it is important to avoid sudden temperature changes in them.

High air humidity is also harmful to plants under the film.

Photo gallery: powdery mildew and downy mildew (click to enlarge):

udec.ru

Signs of powdery mildew on cucumbers (see photo) are brown spots small size covered with white bloom (it is also called mycelium). At first, a small area is affected, but over time, the disease captures the entire leaf. It gradually becomes dull and dries completely. Cucumber seedlings affected by this disease do not develop, and educated young shoots no longer grow.

How to deal with powdery mildew on cucumbers? Protection is carried out by preparing a solution of weeds. To do this, you need the following material: plantain, coltsfoot, nettle, dandelion, wood lice, Ivan tea. All plants are crushed, placed in a bucket (usually the capacity is 10 liters) and poured hot water. Next, add one teaspoon of urea, manganese powder, liquid soap and mix everything. And if the question arises - how to treat cucumbers from powdery mildew and other diseases, then the resulting solution is the best way plant protection.

In addition to a natural herbal cocktail with powdery mildew on cucumbers, folk remedies- milk whey and a mixture of mullein with urea in a proportion of 10 liters. water / 1 kg of cow manure with the addition of 1 tbsp. spoons of urea.

As a prevention of powdery mildew on cucumbers, fine sulfur powder is used (the soil is pollinated through a three-layer gauze and covered with a film for 3 hours). Also, in the fight against powdery mildew on cucumbers, a decoction of horsetail is used.

Preparation of tincture: 100 gr. dried or 1 kg of fresh horsetail is infused for about a day in 10 liters of water, then boiled for about 2 hours. After boiling, the broth should be cooled and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5.

Thus, it is possible to significantly improve the process of growing cucumbers. Diseases are eradicated, and the soil becomes quite suitable for the safe growth and fruiting of plants.

Advice! In order to prevent the disease, diseased leaves and shoots should be burned immediately. Throwing them to the edge of the garden or garden is not recommended.

How to deal with downy mildew (downy mildew)?

The main sign of downy mildew on cucumbers (see photo) are yellow-green spots that cover most of the leaf. They are also mistaken for traces of acid rain. A purple-gray coating appears from the bottom of the leaf, as a result of which it dries completely and crumbles. Downy mildew of cucumbers affects plants regardless of age. It is typical in most cases when growing cucumbers in open ground.

Prerequisites for the emergence and development of peronosporosis are high humidity and air temperature up to 16-180C. The disease develops from small droplets on a leaf.

Spores are able to maintain their dangerous vital activity in the soil. long time so it's very difficult to deal with them. If peronosporosis or downy mildew appears on cucumbers, then control measures should include the use of certain preparations containing copper (Bordeaux liquid, Ridomil Gold, Oxyhom). These funds are effective as a prophylactic agent.

If cucumbers are affected by downy mildew, then the treatment is carried out with the drug "Rizoplan". It is based on living cells of some bacteria. They are absolutely harmless to humans, but fatal to downy mildew spores. The drug also does not accumulate in the soil, but decomposes immediately.

In addition to traditional preparations, you can apply from downy mildew on cucumbers and a folk remedy - whey. Leaves are sprayed with it.

How does olive blotch (cladosporiosis) appear on cucumbers?

The occurrence of olive spotting of cucumbers (see photo) should be observed in the second half of summer, when the cucumbers have already fully formed a bush. Olive blotch appears on fruits in the form of olive (brown) color spots with bloom. The disease spreads rapidly and if not treated, you can lose the entire crop.

This type of disease is more common in greenhouse conditions. Cladosporiosis spores are resistant to the microclimate of the greenhouse, so the fight against this disease should be started immediately.

If olive spotting of cucumbers is observed, then control measures should include thorough wiping of all surfaces of the greenhouse with a disinfectant that does not contain chlorine. In no case do not water the cucumbers with cold water, and at the first detection of the disease, you should generally stop watering the plant for 3-4 days.

Treatment of cucumber disease in the open field is carried out through the use of solutions that contain copper - Bordeaux liquid with the addition of liquid soap.

In order to prevent the occurrence of olive blotch, a change of crops in the affected areas should be carried out.

What is an ordinary cucumber field mosaic?

Ordinary cucumber mosaic (see photo) most often develops in open soil. Signs of the disease are yellow-green spots in the form of a mosaic. With the development of the disease, the leaves of cucumbers curl, fade, dry out and crumble. The fruits become very pimply. Under the influence of the disease, the immunity of the plant is so weakened that with a sharp decrease in air temperature, the bush simply stops growing and soon dies.

The danger of this disease lies in its resistance to cold. Spores of an ordinary field mosaic easily survive winter and cold in the root systems of reserve plants (thistle, quinoa, wood lice, bindweed, wheatgrass). These are hard-to-remove weeds, so it is very difficult to fight this virus. You can apply the method of growing cucumbers in plastic bottles. It is absolutely not complicated and plants are not affected by field mosaic in 94% of cases.

How to spray cucumbers from the disease? With an ordinary cucumber mosaic, the treatment consists in spraying the bushes with whey. In especially severe cases, this is done with a concentrated substance, and in preventive measures and in the initial stages of the disease, the serum should be diluted with water in proportions of 1:2. Treatment of cucumbers for diseases with folk remedies very often gives a positive and lasting result.

Green and white mottled mosaic

Green and white cucumber mosaic (speckled) is one of the most common infections. Signs of the disease are wrinkled leaves with blown out places, and areas with a green or white color also appear. Spots become white in a progressive stage. In this case, it is very difficult to fight the disease.

At the advanced stage, cucumber bushes dull their growth. Leaves weaken and begin to fade in places. The fruits, accordingly, become very soft, and their taste qualities deteriorate. An outbreak of the disease can be provoked by a sharp increase in temperature from 220C to 300C.

This dangerous viral disease is transmitted through an untreated tool, plant remains, and simply persists in the soil. To combat this disease, summer residents choose varieties that are resistant to the disease (mainly hybrids for open or closed ground).

The best measure to get rid of this disease of cucumbers is care. It is necessary to remove the affected shoots and leaves in time and burn them immediately. Also, for prevention, you can spray the bushes with a light solution of whey.

How to deal with gray cucumber rot?

Gray rot on cucumbers (see photo) is a type of viral disease that manifests itself during their active fruiting. A gray coating may appear on leaves, stems and fruits, especially in internodes. The most favorable environment its development is a densely planted area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden or garden.

The fact is that cucumbers that grow in close proximity to each other begin to rot due to the inability to develop in close quarters.

How to deal with gray mold on cucumbers? The therapeutic measure is the timely removal of diseased leaves and entire sections of the stem. In some cases, it is necessary to remove the entire hive. The fight against gray rot on cucumbers also consists in applying to the wounds of the removed sheets of a specially prepared substance (chalk with potassium permanganate). The consistency of such a remedy should be viscous and have a light pink tone.

Root rot of cucumbers

The danger of cucumber root rot (see photo) is that signs of the disease are not immediately visible, since it affects root system plants. The first sign of this disease is a sharp wilting of the bushes. In this case, you can not start watering the plant, this will harm it even more.

How to save cucumbers from root rot? In the early stages of the manifestation of the disease, the root system should be slightly exposed (for this you need to slightly loosen the soil around it). Treatment of root rot of cucumbers consists in sprinkling the affected parts with a specially prepared composition ( charcoal, chalk and ash). A solution of copper sulfate and copper oxychloride can also help with root rot of cucumbers.

After therapeutic measures, the roots and part of the stem should be sprinkled with clean, dry and unaffected soil. Watering can be started at the first sign of improvement in plant growth.

main-dacha.ru

how to cure a cucumber plant from powdery mildew in protected ground?

Linda

Spray with fungicide

Nikitich

Downy mildew. The development of the disease is promoted by high humidity at high temperatures.
The infection persists in the soil on plant debris. It is difficult to defeat powdery mildew, but it is possible if you use the entire set of preventive and eradicating agents.
First of all, this is the observance of garden crop rotation when growing cucumbers in open ground, and in closed ground, if there are two greenhouses, alternately growing cucumbers and tomatoes in them. Of no less importance is the cleaning of greenhouses and greenhouses in the fall from plant residues and weeds and their immediate destruction, followed by disinfection of the entire greenhouse with bleach or fumigation with sulfur briquettes. Great importance also has a deep autumn digging of the soil ...

Galina Kurmaeva

you can sprinkle with manganese

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The drug of systemic action - TOPAZ, helps 100%.

Svetik

Pouring warm water under the root maybe? I grow everything outdoors. I also get covered with some kind of yellowness - like bubbles, it looks like rust .... And then all the leaves dry up even. I don't know what disease it is. We are told that the dew is bad or the fog has taken it. There is nothing to do - the end of the cucumbers comes - the deadline has already passed for them. And we calm down. Since that time, the yield of cucumbers is low, and then completely disappears. Maybe try Topaz? And what kind of disease I have - I do not know.

Rodionov Sergey

treatment is rather difficult since the use of fungicides excludes the use of fruits in food. it is much easier to prevent this disease and apply varieties resistant to this disease; now the choice is quite wide. treatment in any case will greatly reduce the yield and further keeping the plants in the greenhouse will no longer be economically feasible. maybe you should think about changing the plants grown so as not to waste time?

Olga Malysheva

I know that before the start of intensive fruiting, for the prevention of peronosporosis (false powdery mildew), it is necessary to spray the plant with a preparation of copper (oxych). How about a cure? I think that the affected plant should be removed in order to save the rest, stop watering, ventilate the greenhouse well, and scatter ash or chalk over the soil to dry it. The leaves can also be powdered with ash. Or spray the plant with iodine (10ml per 10l of water). It helps currants, and tomatoes from phytophthora.
And Sveta, I think, has bacteriosis on cucumbers, and Fitosporin should be sprayed.

Spring Melody

Old people taught: to water cucumbers after harvesting with a solution of brilliant green, 10 drops per bucket of water. You can start early for prevention.
Checked. Works.

Despite the similar names of diseases, pathogens, symptoms and drugs against them are different.

Drugs for the treatment of diseases are also different.

Powdery mildew (ashtray)

This is perhaps the most common. In protected ground, it spreads instantly and its harmfulness is enormous. In open ground, powdery mildew is less common, does not spread so rapidly, and therapeutic measures give a much greater effect than in a greenhouse.

Description of the pathogen.

Conditions for the onset of the disease

Favorable factors for the development of the disease on cucumbers are strong temperature drops - more than 10 ° C. Increased humidity promotes the spread of powdery mildew. It spreads most strongly in wet summers. Even if the weather is hot, but rainy, with high humidity, powdery mildew still affects plants, though not as much as in a cold and damp summer. The first foci appear:

• in the greenhouse - at the doors, vents, film breaks;
• outdoors - in the wettest places of the borage. Most often, lesions appear a few days after heavy rains;
• thickened plantings, both in open and protected ground, are the first to be affected by powdery mildew.

The incubation period lasts 3-5 days, when the cucumbers are already infected, but there are no signs of the disease yet.

Signs of powdery mildew damage to cucumbers

1. Leaves, petioles and stems of cucumbers are affected.
2. Spots of white powdery coating appear on the leaves from the upper side, which are initially easily erased from the surface. But after a few hours they appear again.
3. The spots gradually merge with each other, the edges of the leaves are slightly bent down and dry.
4. Severely affected leaves become wavy, dry and fall off.
5. With a wide distribution of powdery mildew, the stems are affected. Pads of white fluffy coating appear on them, but not as thick as with white rot. The lashes begin to dry.

Zelentsy do not suffer from powdery mildew, but the yield when affected by a pathogen is reduced by 40-50%. Zelentsy themselves become small and bitter.

Fighting disease with chemicals

Treatment is carried out immediately upon detection of the first signs. It should be taken into account that the infection of healthy plants occurs rapidly, and the slightest delay can lead to a shortage of crops and death of plants.

1. Colloidal sulfur - the main drug against powdery mildew - is not used in the greenhouse. In a greenhouse, where the temperature and humidity are high, even a normal concentration of the drug can cause severe burns of cucumbers, and if the concentration is exceeded, even slightly, plants can be killed. In open ground, treatment with sulfur preparations is best done in cloudy weather. Prepare the working solution strictly according to the instructions. When processing with sulfur and its derivatives, the air temperature should be at least 20°C and not more than 32°C. At low temperatures, the drugs will not work, at high temperatures they are phytotoxic, that is, they kill plants. Colloidal sulfur is sold in pure form in garden stores, a preparation based on it is Thiovit Jet. All cucurbits, and cucumber in particular, are very sensitive to sulfur, so a single treatment is carried out. It is impossible to spray cucumbers with sulfur-containing preparations several times during the growing season.
2. Application of fungicides: Rayok, Tilt, Topsin-M, Topaz, Bayleton. Re-treatment is carried out after 14 days, changing the drug, since the pathogen very quickly becomes resistant to drugs.
3. At an early stage, the biopreparation Alirin B. is used. The soil bacteria contained in it at a very early stage are able to destroy the pathogen. It is usually used if there is a high risk of disease. Processing is carried out 2-3 days after heavy rains.

Folk remedies

Used for prevention and treatment initial stage diseases.

With any method of treatment, all affected leaves are removed necessarily.

Disease prevention

1. If from year to year powdery mildew appears in the greenhouse, then a layer of earth of at least 10 cm is removed, replacing it with a new one.
2. In autumn, all plant residues are removed.
3. The greenhouse is disinfected by burning sulfur bombs in it, or the structures are washed using disinfectants.
4. Thinning thickened crops, since it is there that the first foci of the disease most often appear.
5. Thorough ventilation of greenhouses. Reducing humidity also reduces the risk of powdery mildew.
6. Removal of weeds around the perimeter of the borage.

Varieties resistant to powdery mildew

Currently, a sufficient number of them have been bred, both hybrids and bee-pollinated varieties. Resistant means that if the pathogen spreads slightly, cucumbers are not affected. With a strong outbreak of the disease, only individual leaves on the cucumber are affected, while the main part of the cucumbers does not get sick.

Downy mildew (downy mildew)

A disease similar to the previous one only in name. There is little in common between the MR and the LMR. More often it affects greenhouse cucumbers. In open ground it is less common than MP. It does not spread as quickly as the real one if the pathogen is on plant debris. If the seeds are infected, then the entire borage may die in a few days.

Downy mildew appears in cold, damp summers. In greenhouses where cucumbers are grown for several years in a row, it may also appear in hot summers, but this happens much less often. More often it affects soil suffer from it less.

The peak incidence of plants occurs in early to mid-July, although it may appear earlier. AT southern regions in greenhouse cultivation of cucumbers, it appears on plants even in winter. Appears 1-2 days after heavy cold dew or rain, as well as when watering with cold water.

Signs of defeat

It affects only leaves and petioles. The first signs appear in the morning. The disease begins with young upper leaves. The lower leaves are the last to be affected.

1. Oily yellow spots appear on the upper side of the leaf, which then merge.
2. White-violet areas appear on the underside - this is a mycelium.
3. After 5-7 days, the spots become brown, the leaf dries up.
4. In the absence of protection measures, the entire greenhouse may die in a few days.

The harmfulness of downy mildew is much greater than the real one. With untimely measures, you can be left without a crop.

If the first signs appear on individual leaves, then the pathogen got to the cucumbers from the outside. If at the same time spots appear on all plants under unfavorable conditions, then the seeds were infected.

Control measures

Measures should be taken in advance, 1-2 days after the rains. And in the greenhouse, cucumbers must be treated prophylactically.

1. Bordeaux mixture in the fight against LMR is ineffective.
2. When the first signs of the disease appear, they immediately begin to treat with fungicides. No folk remedies will help. Use drugs Strobi, Quadris. Processing is done 2 times per season. The first after rains or heavy cold dew, the second - at the first sign of the disease. More than 2 treatments cannot be carried out, since the pathogen very quickly develops resistance to the active substance.
3. At the first sign, cucumbers are treated with copper-containing preparations, except for those containing copper sulfate, this substance does not affect the peronospore. Usually use HOM, Ordan, Abiga-Peak.
4. The use of drugs Consento, Revus, Previkur.
5. All seeds in without fail dressed before planting. Even if they have been treated, it is recommended to pickle them again, since the protective effect of the fungicide has already ceased by the time of sowing. At home, the seeds are soaked in a strong solution of potassium permanganate for 20-30 minutes. You can use the drug Maxim or biologics Trichodermin, Gamair.
6. Removal of diseased leaves, they are cut off, leaving no stumps. After removal, the cucumbers are sprayed with a solution of Trichodermin.
7. Treatment with Planriz in the initial stage of LMR.
8. Thorough ventilation of the greenhouse. It is undesirable to allow dripping moisture from the leaves in the morning. To do this, the greenhouse is left open at night.

When signs of the disease appear, at least 3 treatments are carried out with an interval of 3-5 days. Each time the drug is changed. Cucumbers can be treated with one preparation no more than 2 times per season, but not in a row, but alternating it with other chemicals. If the substance is effective, then after the first treatment, the spots lose their oily hue, dry out, and sporulation stops.

With LMR, spraying is carried out on the underside of the leaves, since it is there that the mycelium develops and spores ripen. The spots on the upper side are simply manifestations of the disease, there are no mycelium or spores at the top.

Folk methods of struggle

Folk methods are mainly preventive.

1. Use of soda ash. Having a strong alkaline reaction, the chemical prevents the development of the pathogen. Preparation of a working solution: 25-30 g of the drug is diluted in 5 liters of hot water, 20-25 g of solid or 5 g of liquid tar soap are added. Processing is carried out in the morning on the underside of the leaves.
2. Spraying cucumbers strong mortar potassium permanganate.

Folk remedies are used in places where the disease is expected to develop. If the first signs appear, especially when they appear simultaneously on all plants (which indicates infected seeds), they immediately switch to chemical protection.

Disease prevention

1. Before sowing, all cucumber seeds are treated.
2. If there were outbreaks of downy mildew in the greenhouse last year, then replace the earth to a depth of 10 cm.
3. Complete removal of plant debris.
4. Disinfection of greenhouses des. means or setting fire to sulfur bombs. In the greenhouse, where foci of downy mildew were observed, sulfur bombs are set on fire both in autumn and in spring.
5. When watering cucumbers, it is undesirable for water to get on the leaves.
6. Preventive treatment with biopreparation Gamair.

Prevention, unless the infection is in the seeds, is quite effective and can reduce the risk of downy mildew by 1.5-2 times.

Varieties and hybrids resistant to the disease

There are quite a few hybrids and varieties resistant to downy mildew.