Drainage systems. Technology of installation of drainage systems. How to install gutters if the roof is already covered: we install the gutters correctly with our own hands, choosing the appropriate option

A roof gutter is an important functional element of any roof. It is necessary to plan its device, including the entire drainage system, at the design stage. The drainage system is quite complex, since it consists of several elements, each of which performs its own function.

What is a gutter and why is it so important to properly organize it

The roof is considered finished only after the gutter is installed. It performs very important functions:

  1. Protection. This system diverts water away from the walls and foundation of the building. In the absence of a drain high humidity due to water flowing from the roof, it causes the destruction of the basement, and this problem may appear after 5–10 years of operation of the house. And all due to the fact that water, flowing down from the roof, penetrates the foundation through the foundation into the soil, which is eroded.
  2. Collection of water from the roof, both rain and melt. This water can later be successfully used for watering flowers and gardens. To collect, it is enough to direct the gutter into a barrel or other container.
  3. Home exterior decor. If you make a drainage with your own hands, for example, from improvised materials, it can be made in the style of the exterior of the house, as well as very unusual shapes.

The drain consists of:

  • gutters - collects water from the slopes of the roof and sends it to the pipes;

    The gutter collects water from the roof

  • funnel or storm water inlet - is a connecting element between the gutter and the pipe;

    Through the funnel of the drain, water enters the pipe

  • drain pipe - drains water into drainage system or a water collector;

    Drainpipe drains water away from walls

  • corners and turns - allow you to mount a one-piece roof gutter system, bypass all protruding elements;
  • plugs - are installed in those places where funnels are not provided, it is advisable to place them at the highest point of the system;

    Plugs are installed to prevent water from flowing out through a funnel

  • fasteners.

All elements of the drainage system are required to use

Gutter types

The main purpose of the drain is to divert water from walls and foundations. This means that such a system should be organized taking into account different features building, for example, the angle of inclination of the slope and the material of the roof.

By location

The drainage system of the building can be made in three versions:


According to the material of manufacture

Gutters can be made from different materials:

  1. tree. For the arrangement of the drainage system, you can use fir, larch and pine. Such a system will last about 10 years, but with proper care.
  2. Galvanized. This material is popular because of its low cost. But it is very difficult to work with him. Therefore, if you want to make a drainage system yourself, you will first have to take care of purchasing special equipment. Service life - no more than 10 years, because the material is subject to corrosion.

    Galvanized gutter rusts quickly

  3. Galvanized with polymer coating. The polymer coating significantly increases the service life of the galvanized gutter system, as it eliminates the shortcomings of the material.
  4. Plastic. Material with a long service life, up to 25 years. The main advantages can be considered low weight, resistance to alkaline environment, availability. In addition, the plastic gutter has noise-absorbing properties, which means that the sound of rain will not annoy you. But you can not allow the water to freeze in it, as this can lead to a rupture of the pipe.

    Plastic gutter is very popular

  5. Ceramics. The main advantage of a gutter system made of this material is its long service life. But experience with ceramics is required, so self-assembly systems can be difficult.
  6. Concrete or cement. A kind of gutter system made of ceramics, cheaper, and therefore affordable. Among the shortcomings, a lot of weight stands out, so concrete elements are used only as ground ones, for example, for arranging a trench.
  7. Copper. The material is characterized by a long service life, low weight. But it is not available to everyone. The cost of such a gutter system may exceed the cost of the roof (unless, of course, a similar material was used to cover the roof).

    Copper drain is expensive, but will last more than a hundred years

  8. Handy materials. Most commonly used plastic bottles, but such a design can only be a temporary replacement for a full-fledged drainage system.

The choice of a drain for this parameter depends on the material of the roof and personal preferences.

Video: an overview of drainage systems

How to correctly calculate the drain

The drainage system is able to perform its functions qualitatively only if the calculation is correct. It is necessary at the design stage to determine the diameter and number of gutters, downpipes, the number and location of funnels. The calculation sequence is as follows:

  1. Collection of initial data. To calculate, you need to know the height of the house (from the ground to the eaves overhang), the length of the eaves (it is advisable to measure each eaves of the slopes separately), the distance from the ground to the drain, the roof area (first find the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach slope separately, and then add up the resulting values).
  2. Selection of pipe diameters and gutter widths. This value depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof - the larger it is, the more water the drain will have to be diverted. For roofs up to 70 m 2, the gutter width should be 9 cm, the pipe section should be 7.5 cm, for slopes with a total area of ​​up to 140 m 2 - 13 cm and 10 cm, respectively. These values ​​are relevant if the riser is located on the edge of the slope or in its center. In the second case, the first values ​​are relevant for roofs up to 110 m 2, the second - up to 200 m 2. If two risers are mounted, then these parameters correspond to a roof up to 140 m 2 and up to 220 m 2, respectively.

    Drain pipe diameter and gutter width depend on rainfall and roof area

  3. Counting the number of gutters and corners. The calculation is carried out according to the formula: N gutters \u003d L + 3.0 m, where: L is the total perimeter of the eaves. Taking into account the fact that products of a standard length of 3 m are presented on the construction market, it is easy to calculate right amount gutters. For example, the length of the slope is 5 m, there are 2 such slopes, which means the total perimeter is 10 m. The length of the gutters is 10 m + 3 m = 13 m, which means 13:3 = 5 pieces.

    Drainpipes can be located at the edge of the eaves or in its center

  4. Counting the number of plugs, connectors and brackets. The number of end caps depends on the number of gutter systems - 2 end caps per completed gutter system. The number of connectors is calculated by the formula N connectors =N gutters -1. You need to calculate the number of brackets. It depends on the installation step. The calculation formula is as follows: N brackets \u003d (L gutter a-0.3) / i + 1, where L gutter is the length of the gutter on the cornice for which the calculation is made, i is the installation step of the fastener. The installation step depends on the material of the drain. For example, for metal products, this parameter is 60 cm, and for plastic - 50 cm.
  5. Determining the number of funnels. It corresponds to the number of risers and pipes. They are also determined by the formula N pipes \u003d (H-0.25-N lsh + L inserts) / L tr, where H is the distance from the eaves to the ground, N lsh is the height of the "swan neck" (an element for diverting the pipe from the eaves to wall, consists of two knees with different angles), L tr - the length of the drainpipe itself (3 or 4 m), L insert - the length of the insert into the "swan neck".
  6. Slope calculation. A slope of 5 cm per meter of the system is considered optimal.

    The slope of the gutter must be sufficient for the water to drain off on its own.

Video: calculation and installation of a plastic drain

Features of the organization of drainage from pitched and flat roofs

It is necessary to organize water drainage from both pitched and flat roofs. But there are some features of the arrangement.

Drainage device from a pitched roof

The gutter system of a pitched roof consists of several elements. First of all, you need to properly organize the drainage of water from the roof. There are three weak points on the pitched structure that need special attention:


Flat roof drainage system

The problem with arranging a drainage system from a flat roof is to drain the water directly into the drain. To do this, the funnels are not mounted on the eaves, but on the roof itself. Therefore, the question is only how to make the water flow into these funnels. To do this, the arrangement of the ramp is performed. In this case, the funnel is located at the lowest point of the roof, and the angle of inclination of the roof in its direction should be more than 3%. For the reliability of the drainage system, there should be several funnels, because they tend to clog.

A flat roof gutter consists of a system of funnels

There are several types of funnels:

  • models with a flat cover are suitable for terrace roofs;
  • models with a mesh that prevent leaves and other debris from entering the funnels;
  • for insulated and non-insulated roofs.

Water drainage from a flat roof is possible in two ways:


Video: internal drain funnels

The reliability of the design of the drain in the absence of proper maintenance decreases over time. Therefore, it is so important to carry out periodic preventive inspections of the system, clean it in time and eliminate damage.

Care and protection

Features of care depend on the material that was used to make the system:

  1. Galvanization needs to be protected from corrosion. There is special formulations, the treatment of which will protect the galvanized elements of the drainage system from rust and corrosion.
  2. Painted gutters require periodic inspection and painting over chips and scratches.
  3. The plastic elements of the system can be damaged, which means you need to immediately replace the missing part.

Fasteners may also be damaged. Usually the cause is strong winds. If the brackets that hold the gutter are damaged, then all the water from the roof will pour past it and hit the walls as the gutter tilts. That is why it is recommended to monitor the condition of the fasteners and, if necessary, replace them.

Where to drain water from the roof

There are several options for where you can drain water from the roof:

  1. In containers, such as barrels or tanks. This option is chosen by the owners of plots with greenhouses where drip irrigation. If desired, a barrel for collecting rainwater can be decorated, which means making it creative decor personal plot.

    Storm drains are not diverting water far enough from the foundation Storm drains at home Storm drains are not diverting water far enough from the foundation

  2. into the drainage system. It consists of connected pipes that direct water to a safe place, that is, away from the building. For example, in an equipped drain pit.

    The drainage system will reliably protect the foundation of the house from destruction

  3. Domestic waste system. In order to take away rain water into the sewer system, you need to obtain a special permit.

Gutter cleaning

The full functioning of the drainage system is possible only if it is cleaned in a timely manner. It is best to do this twice a year. There are several ways:


What to do if the joints of the drains flow

Over time, water begins to seep through the joints of the drains. This issue needs to be resolved as quickly as possible. It's easy to do this:

  1. If the gutter element is not damaged, then it can be dismantled, degreased and reinstalled using sealants.
  2. A patch will also help to fix the leak, provided that there is no damage to the drain. To do this, you can use metallized tape. Before applying the patch, the drain surface must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased. For a patch, you can use fiberglass, which is mounted on an epoxy resin.
  3. Replace leaking assembly. Sometimes you need to change the entire drainage system. Most often this applies to metal products that have been damaged by corrosion.
  4. Provide the correct angle. Perhaps the water simply stagnates in the gutter and begins to flow not only through the seams, but also through the sides of the gutter.

Sometimes you just need to clean the gutters, because debris is preventing water from draining into the drain pipe.

Video: how to clean a roof drain

How to close the drain for the winter

The first step in preparing a drain for winter is cleaning it. If you ignore this, then the ice can cause the destruction of pipes, as well as the fact that water, falling on the ice in the gutter, will splash.

Gutter heating will prevent icing

Help prevent icing electrical cables heating.

It is not necessary to close the drain for the winter, it is enough to free the gutters from snow in time.

The gutter system of the roof will perform a protective function only if correct installation and calculation, as well as careful care and timely care. You should also not save on gutter details, in particular brackets, connectors and other details. And then not only the drainage system will not have to be repaired, but the foundation and walls will not require major repairs for a long time.

severe weather with abundant precipitation in the form of rain or sleet, it pushes all owners of private houses to install a drainage system. Since if this issue is not given due attention, the roof and walls are very likely to undergo rotting, corrosion, and mold formation. The device of the drainage system has now become a necessary element of almost any project of a private house. The undoubted advantage of any drainage system is the "flexibility" of installation and its adaptability to any type of house. Starting from a small building in a summer cottage and ending with a serious building.

It is simply impossible to overestimate the need for installing a drainage system. If you do not provide for the presence of a drain in a private house, you risk exposing the building to excessive moisture. And this, in turn, is fraught with the appearance of mold, fungus on the walls, as well as the formation bad smell in basements and basements. Also, the foundation of the house suffers greatly from the lack of a drainage system. Under the influence of constant moisture, it begins to dampen and gradually weaken, which has an extremely negative effect on the safety of the entire structure of the house as a whole. And as a “final chord”, after heavy rainfall, rainwater will gradually accumulate on the lower levels of the building.

As we can see, without a drainage system, we put our health and the structural reliability of the building at risk. The main purpose of the gutter system is to drain rainwater from the roof of the building to a safe place, thereby eliminating unwanted noise and potential risks of compromising the integrity of the house structure. Most systems work on the following principle: water flows from the roof into special gutters, then into the downpipe, and then through the pipes on the site to the optimal safe place. Another important property drainage system is that it protects the walls of the house as much as possible, as well as the pavement of the building from the effects of precipitation and, as a result, from gradual destruction.


The absence of a drainage system can only be justified in buildings located in moderate climatic conditions where precipitation is very rare. Thus, the presence of a drain is economically justified (you insure yourself against unplanned expenses for building repairs), as well as psychologically (you are absolutely calm about the safety of your loved ones and friends).

It is considered optimal to choose a drainage system that is organically combined with the overall color palette of the house, as well as with the material of the roof. The design should not clearly visually stand out against the background of the house. Rather, on the contrary, it should serve as a natural extension of the building and give it a neat and finished look.


If drains are classified “globally”, then two types can be distinguished: internal and external fastening. The gutter is fastened with special brackets to walls or rafters. Both categories include all the main elements of the design of the drain: drain pipes, gutters, funnels, brackets and other components. The gutters themselves can be both metal and plastic, differing in cross-sectional shape: semicircular, trapezoidal and rectangular. To prevent rainwater from overflowing over the edge of the gutter, you can additionally strengthen it at the base.

The classification of gutters according to the material of manufacture will be as follows:

    Plastic. are considered the most budget option, suitable mainly for climatic zones with the absence of sharply negative temperatures. Of the advantages of the material, one can note its relative strength, lightness and ease of installation. Cons - poor resistance to sudden changes in temperature. As a result, the plastic drain can crack or even seriously deform.

    Galvanized steel. Despite its initially strong anti-corrosion properties, it may begin to rust. And the structure will have to be cleaned or completely dismantled. Another negative point is the mandatory involvement of specialists for the manufacture of structural parts, as well as its installation.

    Polymer coated steel. To date, the most reliable and popular solution on the market. An additional factor to the acquisition of this particular option is the possibility of manufacturing the structure in almost any color scheme. This will allow the installation of a drainage system without violating the general "concept" of any country house or buildings.



The drainage system can be installed both independently and by specialists. In any case, the kit includes all the main structural elements, as well as various auxiliary fasteners. The main elements include: downspouts, gutters for collecting rainwater, funnels. To auxiliary: all kinds of brackets, connecting tubes, transitions, plugs, as well as self-tapping screws, anchor bolts and much more.

The entire installation process can be conditionally divided into several stages.

Calculation and purchase of material and components

The dimensions and design of a country house, as a rule, are individual, therefore, before purchasing material, it is necessary to take the dimensions of the house in the most detailed way and consider the installation locations of the main structural elements (gutters, drainpipes). It is also very important to decide on the type of installation: internal or external. When calculating the material, the roof area is usually taken as the basis. Based on its size, the average diameter of all gutters is calculated, and the total number of funnels involved in the system is also calculated. Gutters from the material supplier are usually 3 meters long and a little less often 4 meters. You can calculate the required number of meters based on the number of slopes and the total width of the roof. The required length of downpipes is much easier to calculate. It is necessary to measure the distance from the ground to the lower edge of the roof, and also take into account all points of water drainage. Rotary elements for gutters are calculated based on the specific roof structure. In the case of downpipes, one 45 degree swivel element is used. It is installed near the surface of the earth. All fasteners must be calculated taking into account the fact that their installation step is approximately 80 - 100 centimeters.

Let's consider the calculation method using specific examples.

For a small country house with a roof, about 60 - 70 square meters, the diameter of the gutters can be selected from 70 - 100 mm, and for downpipes: 50 - 80 mm.

In the case of houses already with a larger area (from 100 m2), gutters with a diameter of 150 - 200 mm can be used. The diameter of the drain pipes in this situation should not exceed 100 - 150 mm.

An important nuance when installing a drainage system is right choice gutter slope. If the gutter is significantly smaller than the recommended size, then it will constantly overflow with rainwater, and in the case of a large funnel angle, part of the precipitation will end up on the wall surface, which will negatively affect the “ecology” of the house and negate the whole point of installing the system. Therefore, the optimal slope of the gutter is 2 - 5 mm per meter of length.

We make the main elements of the drain with our own hands

Despite the fact that the basic elements of the gutter are usually ordered and purchased in a store or taken directly from the manufacturer, many of the design details can be made independently. As a material, it is better to use a steel sheet of at least 0.7 mm.

Let's consider in more detail the sequence of works

    With the help of folds longitudinal edges on a steel sheet, we can get a reliable seam connection. Using various rolling tools, it is necessary to roll out a complete workpiece of the future structural element. As a result of rolling out, you should get a semi-cylindrical product shape or a regular gutter shape.

    The roll-out of the product itself is carried out manually. A metal bar is taken as a stop, then a rigid straight pipe or any other similar object is taken and the sheet is bent until the desired gutter shape is obtained. The edges of the steel sheets are joined with a seam seam.

    To make a funnel yourself, you need from steel sheet cut out three elements: the cone itself, the "glass" and the rim. In this case, the diameter of the rim must necessarily be equal to the diameter of the adjacent side of the cone. The diameter of the drainpipe should be the same as that of the bottom of the "glass". If these nuances are not observed, the design will turn out to be “leaky” and leaks cannot be avoided. The funnel is also connected to the pipe with a seam seam.

    At self-manufacturing draining hard restrictions and "nuances", as a rule, does not exist. As a drain, a pipe with an oblique cut is usually used, attached to a downpipe at a certain slope. When installing a downpipe consisting of several elements, at the junction of the links, it is necessary to narrow one side by 3-5 mm. To avoid deep entry constituent parts structures at the ends of the links, you can make protrusions, but not more than 6-7 mm.



In general, the installation of a drainage system can be started at any stage of the construction of a country house, or even after its construction. But it is best to carry out installation before the construction of the roof and work with the roof. The most time-consuming stage of installing the system can definitely be considered the installation of brackets under the gutters.

Below we will consider in detail the installation algorithm for all components of the drainage system.

    Installation of the system, as a rule, begins with the installation of brackets, various hooks and other fasteners for gutters. Also at the initial stage, the installation of roof sheathing brackets to the slings is underway. Subsequently, the eaves are mounted on the slings. The pitch of the rafters in this case should be equal to 50-60 cm, according to the recommendations for mounting the gutter holders. If the pitch is more than 60 cm, it is necessary to install additional brackets to ensure the rigidity of the structure. Hooks must be fixed with a certain slope to ensure continuous drainage of rainwater. The slope should be about five centimeters per 10 meters of the gutter. To do this, you need to calculate the number of brackets on one side of the roof, then you need to calculate the difference in height between the extreme elements, then lay them out one after another in a row and draw the resulting angle of inclination with a pencil. Brackets can be various lengths. If they are long, they can be bent at an angle to the direction of the roof. If short - they are attached to the vertical side of the crate. If you install the system on too long side of your home, two drain slopes using two funnels. In this situation, the funnels should be placed along the edges of the roof, and the slopes of the gutters should go from the middle, again to the edges.

    Prior to the direct installation of the funnels into the gutter, it is necessary to cut a hole in it for the water to drain into the funnel itself, then into the downpipe. To cut a hole, you need to mark the center of the funnel attachment as accurately as possible so that it is directly above the gutter. The funnel is fixed as follows: a fold is fitted under the gutter, and on the other side, a mechanical bend of the fixing device is made.

    For a snug fit of the funnel to the gutter, it is necessary to use a plug with a rubber seal.

    At this stage, the gutters are connected using special adapters and other connecting elements. All joints must contain a sealing ring without fail. If the sealant material comes separately, then it is placed in the connecting element in an arc with the ribbed side up. The connector is mounted centrally on both gutters. First, the side without the latch (lock), then the side with the latch. It is important to understand that the gutters should not touch each other. A distance of about 2-4 mm must be observed.

    The brackets must support all corners of the gutter. The corners are connected to the gutter in a similar way to the gutter connection method we discussed above. For insurance, we recommend attaching a bracket to the connector on each side to increase structural stability and eliminate sagging.

    One of the drain elbows joins the funnel from below. This is done so that the downpipe is as close to the wall as possible, and it could be fastened with special clamps. After installing the first knee, another one is attached next, but directed downwards to install the pipe directly.

    In case of a large distance between the installed elbows and the wall, it is allowed to install another small connecting pipe. A pipe of smaller diameter is inserted into the elbow, and secured with several clamps.

    The clamps themselves are of two types: for brick or wooden wall. For a brick, there must be a special pin in the clamp so that it can be driven into the wall. It is better to fix the pipe on both sides with clamps divided into two arcs. The arcs can twist at the edges or simply put on the pipe with subsequent fixation.

    And finally, the drain is mounted on the end of the downpipe.

In general, the installation of the drainage system can be considered complete.

Do-it-yourself installation of a drain - video instruction


Maintaining the optimal temperature in the structure during the cold period

In winter, melt water from snow flowing from the roof can, of course, freeze. As a result, ice clots can form in drainpipes. Further, the appearance of icicles is possible. To minimize such problems, it is necessary to consider a roof heating system and a drainage system. Such systems usually consist of heating cables, which allow you to quite reliably protect the roof and the system from icing. These heating systems have undeniable advantages:


    Protection of the system from mechanical damage as a result of the formation of ice clots, icicles.

    Getting rid of frequent cleaning of drainpipes and roofs in winter.

    Save money by eliminating recurring roof repairs and upgrades.

    Due to the minimum energy consumption, which works only when the snow melts, you save a lot of money on electricity bills.

To design this system, a number of factors are usually taken into account. Here are some of them: the climatic zone of the system, the type and material of the roof, the dimensions of the drain and other parameters.

Maintenance of the drainage system

Like any other relatively complex system, consisting of many connecting and fastening parts, as well as systematically subjected to mechanical stress, the drainage system needs periodic maintenance. Even with full observance of the installation technology, any drainage system needs periodic cleaning from various debris - leaves, dust, branches, etc. Without paying enough attention to this issue, the drain can quickly fail, and therefore urgent repairs will be required.

We list other main reasons for repairing the drain:

    Corrosion of iron pipes, cracks in plastic pipes

    Leaks at joints

    Loose fasteners, vibration from wind and precipitation

    Difficulty draining rainwater due to the wrong angle of the gutters

If you notice significant cracks and severe corrosion of the pipes, they must be completely replaced. Any repair in this situation is not appropriate. If you have fixed the weakening of the fasteners, you must tighten them tightly, or replace all fasteners. Downspout cleaning is usually carried out by hosing with high pressure water. Large debris can be removed using a long pole with a round brush (brush) at the end. Gutters are cleaned manually. In this case, you should be extra careful, as the work is carried out at a height. To protect against the ingress of various debris, it is recommended to mount special nets made of metal or plastic on gutters and funnels.

Leaks on iron pipes can be closed with special patches of metallized tape. Before installing the patch, the surface must be cleaned and degreased. After that, a metallized tape is applied to the silicone mastic in compliance with all technologies. In the case of plastic pipes, sealant and various rubber gaskets can be used.

In conclusion, we would like to say that a competent and timely installation of a drainage system will protect your home from premature aging and dilapidation. Compliance with the terms of preventive and repair measures will significantly increase the service life of the drainage structure, and, consequently, the safety of the house!

Gutter systems made of PVC are much lighter and more practical than outdated ones. metal options. Plastic kits are much easier to work with. Despite the installation rules common with the previous varieties, they do not require labor efforts commensurate in severity.

True, it is impossible to perform a successful installation of a gutter for a roof with your own hands without taking into account the specific qualities of polymer products. Let's figure out what independent installers of PVC drainage systems should know and observe.

Drains made of PVC elements are structurally slightly different from metal predecessors and prototypes. The kits produced by the industry include similar parts from which the horizontal and vertical branches of the systems are mounted. Assembly and installation is carried out in an equal number of stages and in a similar sequence.

However, in the manufacture and installation of gutter "constructors" made of PVC, the specific property of products with a polymer base is strictly taken into account. This is a characteristic dimensional instability that manifests itself when the temperature background changes. Plastic parts are able to expand in a linear direction when heated and return to their previous geometric boundaries when cooled.

A gutter intended for outdoor use will, of course, be cooled in the winter and heated in the hot summer. Following temperature fluctuations, it will lengthen, then shorten. It is difficult, and not necessary, to interfere with the linear motions inherent in polymers. You just have to get used to them. Those. take into account these qualities when designing and assembling the system.

For the construction of PVC drainage circuits, special compensating and connecting parts are produced. They allow the main elements of the system to lengthen and shorten without deformation and damage, the number of cycles promised by the manufacturer. Their device takes into account the possibility of some movement with a subsequent return to the same place.

In addition to the described feature, polymer products have another important quality that must be considered when attaching a PVC drain to the roof. This is a tendency to deformation and to sagging in long sections that do not have supports under them.

In order for the rather flexible plastic gutters not to sag, the installation step of the holders under them cannot exceed 60 cm. Otherwise, the horizontal sections between the brackets will begin to sag under the weight of precipitation and from their own weight. Dirt will accumulate in the deflections and water will begin to stagnate, which, in the event of frost, can simply break the polymer gutter.

Stages of assembly and installation of the drainage system

Construction of a drain PVC elements performed in a clear sequence. AT in general terms the algorithm for the installation of a drainage circuit includes the following types of work:

  • Design. Drawing up the simplest scheme with the selection of the optimal size of the system and the calculation of the number of main parts required for the device, and mounting accessories.
  • Assembly and installation of the water intake. Among them are gutters and funnels that receive precipitation, collect it from the roof and direct it to downpipes.
  • Assembly and installation of plumbing. Those. gutter risers directing an organized flow to a specific area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe blind area or to storm sewer.

The drainage device is made exclusively in the “top-down” order. This means that the installation of water inlets is carried out first, then the installation and connection of downpipes. Strict observance of successive stages is dictated by the technological features of the system and technical specifications material used in its production.

Rigorous Design Rules

When developing a project for a drainage device, it is necessary to comply with technological requirements that ensure the normal operation of the circuit and the unhindered removal of atmospheric water. To do this, it is necessary to deal with the following questions in advance, these are:

  • Optimal drain configuration. Gable roofs are traditionally equipped with two separate gutters, equipped with a continuous contour of gutters arranged around the perimeter. In the construction of the latter, corner connecting parts will be required.
  • Number of risers. Each 12 m of polymer gutter must be equipped with one riser. If the length of the gutter, usually oriented to the length of the eaves, is more than 12 m, two risers with conventional water inlets and another compensating funnel will be required.
  • The use of compensating funnels. They are used in several cases: a) when constructing gutters with a length of more than 12 m, b) with technical obstacles to expansion, for example, closely spaced walls of neighboring buildings, c) when installing a closed drainage system around the perimeter of the roof.
  • Choice of gutter holders. In the installation, long or short hook-shaped brackets are used. The long ones are attached to the crate before laying the coating, the short ones are fixed on the frontal board at any time, including after the roof is installed.
  • Compliance with the slope of the gutters. Depending on the brand of the system, the slope recommended by the manufacturer is indicated from 2 to 5 mm, distributed per 1 linear meter of the water intake gutter. The slope is formed towards the catchment funnel by installing brackets with a height offset.

It is extremely important to determine the location of the risers during the design process. They should not spoil the exterior composition. The best option their installation at the corners of the building. However, it is quite possible to place it in a niche created by a bay window or in the middle of a wall, if it is more convenient to make a storm sewer receiving point there.

If atmospheric water is planned to be discharged onto the blind area, then you just need to try to remove the risers from the walking paths passing nearby, the ventilation vents of the foundation, and the entrances to the basements.

The designers of the drainage system will find it somewhat more difficult to solve the problem with the location of the drainage risers. For them, vertical gutter branches must be timed to the supporting rack of the frame, but it is also possible to fasten to the private one. By analogy, masters who install a system for a house with siding should act.


The required number of parts for the construction of a drainage system should be calculated individually. In private construction, they are now trying to get away from standard design, and at the same time from roofs similar in design. However, there is a calculation template that will give you an idea of ​​how the calculations are performed.

According to an extremely simple scheme, a drain is calculated for a gable roof with slopes up to 12 m long. Suppose that in our case it is so, then you will need:

  1. Gutters. You need to buy them by the footage according to the lengths of the cornices. Nothing will interfere with the linear thermal expansion of the gutters, therefore, the expansion compensation of 2.5 mm from each edge can be ignored.
  2. Gutter connectors. If we take into account that their length is 3 m, then for each line of 12 m, 3 connecting elements are required.
  3. Two funnels. One for each gutter.
  4. Brackets. The number of hooks is calculated by elementary division of the length of the cornice into equal segments, each of which is up to 60 cm. Before dividing, 5 cm recede from both edges of the cornice.
  5. Additional brackets. For a funnel located near the corner of the house, one additional holder is required, for a funnel in the center of the wall - two.
  6. Four plugs for gutters. A couple for each branch.
  7. Two upper and lower knees for the construction of the discharge of risers.
  8. Two pieces of pipe to connect the elbows. They are used if the width of the cornice overhang exceeds 25 cm. If the roof eaves are less than 25 cm, the knees are simply attached to each other.
  9. Pipes for the riser. They are determined by the distance from the eaves to the ground, minus the lengths of the drain outlet, drain, and another 20 - 40 cm - this is the indent from the earth's surface.
  10. Brackets for mounting risers. Two mandatory: one is installed near the lower knee, the second near the drain from the drainpipe. The rest are installed near each connection of downpipes, but at least every 1.5 m.

The elements of the drainage system for a house with an attic are calculated by a similar method. They also act if the drain is arranged for multi-tiered pitched structures, but calculations are carried out for each slope separately.

But the calculation of the number of parts and fasteners for a half-hip will be significantly more difficult. Because for their arrangement you will need at least four corner pieces and two compensating connectors. The principle of using compensating funnels and connectors is the same as for linear individual sections. However, parts to compensate for movements are equipped with each closed loop, regardless of the length of the largest cornice.

At the stage of design and calculations, it is necessary to determine the diameter future system. Gutter collection parts are available in several sizes to ensure that atmospheric water is drained to the required volume without overflow. Accurate selection of the size at the same time will exclude the purchase of unnecessary large structure, which will look bulky and cost more than a suitable size option.

According to technological recommendations drains from 1 m² of roofing must take 1.5 cm² of the cross section of the downpipe. This is the average conditional coefficient for our middle lane. AT southern regions the indicated indicator is 1.5 times larger.

Proper selection of the standard size of a prefabricated gutter structure begins with determining the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof processed by one funnel with a riser connected to it. For example, from calculating the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope from our example.

The slope area will need to be divided by 1.5, which will eventually allow us to obtain the calculated value of the cross section of the drainpipe pipe. According to this value, as a rule, slightly rounded up, it is necessary to select the optimal size of the drain.

In practice, the slope area above a private house is rarely more than 80 m². Therefore, they don’t bother with calculations too much, but take an average of Ø pipes for a riser of 100 mm with deviations in both directions for roofs with a larger and smaller area.

Construction of the water intake

We will analyze the process of assembling and installing a PVC gutter system on specific example. According to the example data, the installation of the drain is done after laying the cover using long metal brackets for the gutters. Because cement tiles are laid on the roof, that is, it is possible to simply remove the bottom row by slightly lifting the tiles laid on top.

Suppose that we will equip two separate slopes of a gable structure. The length of the slope along the eaves is 12 m, the width of the gable overhangs is 50 cm each. We will position the funnel so that the riser connected to it runs 10 cm from the corner of the building. To do this, subtract the width from the edge of the cornice gable overhang 50 cm and these same 10 cm.

First of all, let's install the long brackets:

  1. Let's do a preliminary test. The end holder is attached to the place of the forthcoming installation. At the same time, we will install a rule or a regular rail directly on the slope. There should be 2 cm between the rule and the bent part of the hook.
  2. Mark the fold point. In addition to the above condition, there is one more thing: the edge of the roofing must overlap the gutter by at least a third. As soon as we find a point that meets both conditions, we put a mark on the bracket leg.
  3. We find a slope to the catchment funnel. If, for example, running meter the eaves should be inclined by 3 mm, multiply them by 12 m, we get 36 mm. This is the difference in the height of the bend of the extreme hooks. If, due to the large width of the gable overhang, the funnel is removed from the edge by almost a meter, then 33 mm is enough for the slope.
  4. Draw a fold line. To do this, we lay out the brackets in the amount required for arranging one slope in a row and draw an inclined line on their legs. The point of the hook farthest from the funnel should be 3.6 cm higher than the point of the gutter holder next to the funnel.
  5. We number the hooks that have been marked.
  6. We carry out bending of the gutter holders. In this case, it is better to use a special bending device to optimize accuracy. In the absence of a bend, you can also use a vice, trying not to damage the anti-corrosion shell.
  7. We fasten the two extreme brackets to the crate. The end holders should recede from the edge of the roof by 15 cm.
  8. We stretch one or two control lines between them. One must necessarily designate the bottom, the second is optionally used to designate top point hooks, for example.
  9. We install ordinary hooks according to the distance between them and the lines indicated by the fishing line.

The most crucial stage has been completed, now it is necessary to prepare the gutters and funnel for installation. To do this, we again try on, but already on that part of the gutter, to which the drainpipe will be attached through the funnel. Let's put on plastic funnel on the gutter to find the exact place to drill the hole for it.


Outline the outline of the hole with a marker without removing the funnel. Then, according to the mark, we drill a hole in the gutter using a suitable crown. You can form a hole for the funnel with a hacksaw by making two opposite gashes. The edges of cuts or drilled holes must be cleaned with sandpaper.

We will install the funnel, as it should be, on the gutter and fix it with the help of its snap-on sides. Before installation, we apply glue with a strip of about 5 mm to the inside of the funnel around the nozzle. Two similar strips are applied around the hole. If we use a compensating funnel, then we install according to the divisions applied inside, related to the atmospheric temperature on the day of installation.



Installation of the gutter on the brackets begins with a segment with a funnel. To splice the gutter parts with each other, we use connectors, on the edges of which from the inside, as well as on the edges of the connected gutters from the outside, glue is also applied in strips of 5 mm.

We install and connect all the details of the gutter to the brackets, then we attach the plugs, which we have the full right to install and before assembling the gutters. An adhesive composition is also applied to the inner sides of the plugs before installation.

Drainage device

The construction of the vertical part of the system begins with the assembly of the transition from the horizontal part of the drain to the vertical riser. For roofs with narrow cornices up to 25 cm, it is assembled by connecting the upper and lower knees. Owners of structures with wide cornices will have to overcome a wider front of work.


Let's join their ranks in order to study the next stage of the construction of the drain:

  1. We attach the upper elbow to the funnel nozzle, having previously applied a strip of glue along the connection line at a distance of about 1 cm.
  2. Let's do another sample. We apply the lower knee to the installation site on the wall. Measure the distance between the knees with a ruler. Note the position of the lower knee.
  3. We determine the actual length of the connecting segment by adding to the distance between the knees the height of the pipe of the upper elbow, on which the segment will be put on, and the height of the opposite element of the lower elbow.
  4. We cut out the connecting segment according to the obtained dimensions. We clean up the cut.
  5. We assemble the transition and mark the point of the upper clamp for the drainpipe. It should be just below the lower knee. We mark the attachment point and again separate the lower knee and connecting pipe from the top knee.
  6. We install the clamp, fixing it as it should be fixed according to the technical rules on the wall from a specific type of building material.
  7. We assemble the transition, now fixing its components with glue. We apply the adhesive composition in strips of 5 mm at a distance of about 1 cm from the edges.
  8. We mark the installation points for the clamps for the drainpipe, not forgetting that the lowest one should be located above the drain. Pipes of a polymeric drain are connected by couplings, under each of which a clamp must be installed.
  9. We attach the details of the riser, moving from top to bottom. We connect with couplings, leaving 1 - 1.5 cm in the sockets for free linear expansion of the pipes.
  10. We tighten the riser clamps not too tightly, the pipes should still be able to move slightly up / down.
  11. We attach the drain to the bottom pipe with glue. If there is a desire, the plums can be filed from above with a hacksaw.

If you plan to drain rainwater into a storm sewer, it is not necessary to connect a drain to the riser. The pipe in such cases can end directly above the drainage channel at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from its surface.


To prevent clogging of the system from above, it is recommended to completely cover the gutter with a grate or at least install protective nets in the form of a crab on the funnels.

Video about the rules for installing PVC gutters

Visual demonstration of assembly and fastening work plastic drain will help you quickly and correctly complete the installation:

By following the rules for assembling and installing a drainage system made of polymer parts, you can successfully equip the roof with an excellent atmospheric water drainage system.

Properly equipped gutter from the roof of the house will provide reliable protection the facade of the building from the negative effects of precipitation. The gutter is designed to divert storm drains and melt water from the roof, thereby preventing them from flowing down the walls of the house and undermining the foundation. The device of a drain from pitched roofs is a simple matter, you can cope with the task without calling specialists. Let's see how this happens in practice.

Why can't the roof be left without a gutter? Many houses have rather unusual and beautiful roofs, and their owners wish to abandon the arrangement of this important system just because they don't want to spoil appearance roofs and buildings in general. After all, the drain is a system of gutters and pipes that look far from as elegant as, perhaps, the house itself. But making such a decision will be fundamentally wrong - no matter how beautiful and unusual the house is, it needs a drain from the roof.

Primarily, the drainage system provides protection of the building from the effects of precipitation on the facades and foundation. Water dripping from the sky is far from the purest liquid, it contains a lot of chemicals, and in some regions - literally the entire periodic table. And some Construction Materials under its influence, they begin to quickly lose their appearance and collapse, due to which the structure is no longer as strong and reliable as it was originally. Yes and wet walls lose some of the heat-saving properties, look ugly.

On a note! A roof drainage system does not always look simple or ugly. Now you can make components of any shape and even adjust them to the style of the whole structure, which means that they will not look clumsy.

The drainage system operates simply: the water that has fallen on the roof is collected in one gutter, through which it is directed to a certain point of the so-called safe flow. And if the system is designed correctly, then it reliably protects both the foundation and the walls from water.

Organized gutter from the roof

Gutter types

From pitched roofs, drainage can be organized in three ways:

  • unorganized when water flows naturally from the roof under the influence of gravity, falling on the walls and flooding the blind area;
  • organized internal when the drainage system from the roof is inside the building;
  • organized outdoor, consisting of pipes, gutters and funnels located on outside building.

On roofs with slopes, unorganized and external organized drains can be equipped. Moreover, the former are used less and less - builders prefer the latter, despite the need for additional investments in construction and a certain number of works.

Earlier in Russia, often there was no drainage system from the roofs - just the roof extensions were made larger and the water flowed down to the ground through them. Rather, it was called just an unorganized drain. But in this case, special requirements were imposed on the foundation of the building, and the surrounding space around the house had good waterproofing. This method is still relevant and used, but still it is usually settled only in regions with a minimum amount of precipitation (no more than 300 mm per year). All possible conditions its arrangement can be found and read in SNiP 31-06-2009.

SNiP 31-06-2009. Public buildings and facilities. Download file (click on the link to open the PDF file in a new window).

Such a drainage system can be used if the height of the building does not exceed 5 floors, and the roof itself must have one slope, the slope of which is directed to the courtyard inside the backyard. At the same time, the roof must be equipped with a visor that extends beyond the roof by at least 60 cm. Also, under such a drain there should not be any means of movement of vehicles or people. The only advantage of such a drain is that there is no need to invest in work on drainage from roofs.

Not organized drain does not provide foundation protection, it will rather lower it bearing capacity. Also, over time, it will cause the destruction and decoration of the walls, and the basement.

The best option for organizing a drain from pitched roofs is an external drainage system. Thanks to him, the water will be only outside the building, gathering on the roof, flowing only to a certain place. And in itself, such a drain is easy to install and does not require special costs.

On a note! An internal organized drain, provided that the roof has slopes, is used very rarely, as it is complex internal system channels. This type of drain can be found in industrial facilities.

The structure of the drainage system

In order for the roof drainage system to work correctly, it must include all necessary elements. Despite the rather simple device, it must contain the following design details:


Table. The materials used to make the system.

MaterialCharacteristics

Easy to install, lightweight and convenient items. The assembly is carried out without much difficulty, since all the parts fit exactly to each other. PVC is not afraid of water, does not rust and is quite resistant to other influences. The service life of the system is up to 50 years.

For the manufacture of drains, metal with galvanization or black can be used. Now it is used less and less, as new types of materials have appeared that make it possible to create more durable structures. The service life is only 10-15 years.

Traditional, but expensive material for the manufacture of gutter parts. Has no drawbacks, except for the cost.

A material that combines the advantages of metal and PVC products. Strong, durable, can serve flawlessly for more than 50 years.

System calculation

To cope with the flow of water, the drainage system must have certain sizes and shapes. They directly depend on the amount of precipitation in the region, the size of the building and other factors.

The catchment area is taken as the basis for the calculations - it is from it, first of all, that the parameters of the gutter and pipes will depend. For example, for small country houses(water collection area - less than 30 m 2) it is enough to purchase a drain pipe with a diameter of 50-75 mm, and a gutter with a cross section of about 70-115 mm. For modest cottages (the collection area does not exceed 50 m 2), a pipe with a diameter of 75 to 100 mm and a gutter with a cross section of 115-130 mm are suitable. But for buildings with large roofs (the collection area is about 125 m 2), you will have to purchase drain pipes with a diameter of at least 90-160 mm and gutters with a cross section of 140-200 mm.

The effective liquid drainage area can be calculated by the formula S=(B+1/2H)xL, where B is the length of the horizontal projection of the edge of the roof slope, L is the length of the roof, and H is its height. All measurements are in meters.

When calculating the cross section of the pipe, the angles of inclination of the drain should also be taken into account, because if they are insufficient, the gutter will quickly fill with water, which simply will not have time to flow down it. And at a large angle of inclination, the funnel of the drainage system will choke. For 1 linear meter of the gutter, the slope should be approximately 2-5 mm.

On a note! The distance between adjacent funnels in the system should not be more than 24 m. It is best to place them 8-12 m apart - then it will be possible to achieve a slight slope of the gutters.

The cross section of the funnel is also easy to determine. It is enough to estimate that for 1 m 2 of the roof in horizontal projection there is about 1.5 cm 2 of the cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis element. It is also important to remember that one funnel is able to collect water from about 10 m of the gutter. To simplify the calculations, you can use online calculators.

Number of internal and outside corners it is easy to calculate - only the configuration of the structure is taken into account here. And the number of brackets is calculated depending on the total length of the gutters, while it is important to remember that their installation step is 50-60 cm for metal systems and only 30-40 for plastic structures subject to a gutter slope of up to 1 cm for every 3-4 m. Where a funnel is installed, fasteners must be fixed at a distance of at least 15 cm from it. The same applies to the joints of gutters, corners and plugs.

Mounting Features

The technology for installing a gutter system from a pitched roof is simple, but it has a number of nuances that must be taken into account. One of the most important is the correct method of fastening, because it will depend on this how strong and reliable the system will turn out. The brackets must be securely screwed to the frontal board, batten or rafters with a certain pitch. Installation is done until final finishing roofs. If they are not fixed correctly, then the structure will begin to sag over time, due to which the gutters will leak.

An important point is correct installation the gutters themselves. They should be positioned so as to be partially closed edge roofs - about 1/3. In this case, it will be possible to achieve the most efficient collection of liquid. At the same time, the edge of the gutter should be located about a couple of centimeters lower than the slope itself - in this case, during the snow and ice coming off the roof, the gutter will not be damaged.

The connection of two gutters is a moment that also requires special attention. They can be fastened with glue (if they are made of plastic), couplings and seals (for plastic or metal gutters) or by soldering (the method is optimal for copper structures).

On a note! PVC products due to temperature changes can vary somewhat in size, so it is recommended to connect them so that they have some mobility. Otherwise, they may be deformed.

The drain pipe itself, located vertically, should be located as close as possible to the wall of the house and secured with clamps. This will increase its resistance to wind action. Separate sections of pipes, as well as pipes with funnels, are also connected using special connectors.

By the way, with regard to clamps for drain pipes, in the upper part, near the roof, the pipe is fixed with a rigid clamp, and in the middle or below - with a free one. The distance between them should be approximately 2-2.5 m.

The drain can be discharged immediately into an underground storm system through a storm pit, if available. Other possibilities for utilizing rainwater can also be considered.

Installation of a drainage system

Consider how the installation of a drainage system manufactured by Vinylon takes place.

Step 1. To install and assemble the system, you will need the following tools: a screwdriver, a miter box, a hacksaw, a strip bender, building level, tape measure, twine and marker.

Step 2 Anti-corrosion fasteners are used to fasten all parts of the drain. It is purchased at a hardware store.

Step 3 The drain system is installed from top to bottom. First, the catchment gutters are attached, only after that the drainage system (drain pipes) is installed. Gutters are installed below the level of the roof slope with a slope towards the funnel by about 2-3 cm every 10 meters of the gutter. For ease of use, markings are applied showing the attachment points of the brackets.

Step 4 The funnel is installed first at the bottom mark and the bracket at the top mark. A twine is stretched between them, along the level of which the remaining brackets and couplings are attached. In this case, the brackets are installed so that the distance from them to the edges of the funnel or coupling is no more than 10 cm. There can be a distance of about 60 cm between the other brackets.

Step 5 After installing the brackets, the gutter is fixed on them.

Step 6 Docking of two segments of gutters is carried out using a special coupling.

Step 7 The corners connecting the gutters in the corners of the house (internal and external) are fastened. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutters.

Step 8 Installation of the drainage system begins. To do this, you will need pipe clamps. It is rigidly fixed in the upper part, and in the lower part it is fixed with slipping.

Step 9 An elbow is attached to the drain funnel, which, using a pipe segment, is connected to another similar elbow, but oriented in the opposite direction. This will bring the drain pipe as close as possible to the wall of the house. The second knee is fixed on the wall with a clamp attached to it. This section is being assembled.

Step 10 At a distance from each other (maximum - 1.7 m), clamps for the drain pipe are attached to the walls.

Step 11 At a distance of 25-30 cm from the ground, the drain elbow is fastened. All parts are installed strictly vertically according to the building level.

Step 12 Pipes from the top of the couplings and drains are always installed until they hit the internal limiter of the element, from below - to the line marked on the system.

Step 13 After installing all the pipes, intermediate clamps are installed and all elements are tightened.

Video - Drainage device

Do-it-yourself installation of a drain from sewer pipes

A country house can be equipped with a drainage system made of ordinary sewer pipes. Let's see how it's done.

Step 1. A pipe 4 m long, having a sufficiently large cross section (about 110 mm), is cut lengthwise into two halves. It is most convenient to do this with a grinder.

Step 2 The halves of the pipes are interconnected and fastened with self-tapping screws.

Step 3 A drain funnel is being formed. To do this, a pipe segment and a cross are connected to the elbow. After fixing, marking is applied in the middle of the pipe with a continuation to the cross. According to the markup, the assembled elements are cut.

Step 4 To fix the gutters under the roof, you can use factory brackets or make them yourself from metal. They are screwed to improvised gutters.

Step 5 The installation of the gutter is carried out along the slope of the roof.

Step 6 The drain pipe is assembled, connected to the gutters and fixed on the wall of the building.

Video - Creating a drain from pipes

Installing a roof drain system is not as difficult as it first appears. In the construction industry, there are much more labor-intensive and time-consuming activities. Here, if desired, you can quickly manage to ensure the correct flow of water from the roof.

The drainage system in the operation of the house plays an important role. Its main task is to collect and divert sedimentary flows to the right place. Competent arrangement of gutters helps to prevent the destruction of the facade, walls, foundation of the building. In addition, the drain refers to the element decorative design Houses. The collected rainwater can be used for various household needs, watering plants.

Gutter types

There are two main types of drains that divert thawed water and:

  1. The drain is external.
  2. Interior.

They are installed both on a standard hard roof and on a soft one.

Internal drain

With this arrangement of the sewage system, all working elements are located inside the building. This type of drain does not allow pipes to freeze and is used only on flat roofs. It differs from the outside one in that it is not visible from the facade, which significantly improves the exterior. Waste from the sewers enters the drain or into a designated area in the yard.

The system includes:

  • pipeline;
  • receiving funnels with a collector;
  • special connectors that allow you to clean the system.

Outer drain

This is the most popular drainage system installed on the facade of a building. It is the external drain that equips most country and private houses. The main convenience of this technology is that the drainage device can be carried out after the completion of the construction of the building, while the internal one is installed before finishing work.

Water intake funnels are located in the corners of the house, each of them can be taken out separately to the drainage or, by connecting pipes, to ensure the flow into only one outlet.

The arrangement of an external drainage system has several advantages:

  • Installation is quite simple, no special building knowledge is required.
  • The system is practically maintenance-free during operation.
  • When assembling the structure, professional tools are not required.

Material selection

Modern outdoor gutters of buildings can be made of plastic and metal:

  • carbon (black steel);
  • of stainless steel;
  • titanium;
  • copper;
  • aluminum
  • plastic, etc.

The most common and affordable is the external drain of ordinary steel. To prevent the formation of corrosion, it is coated with zinc or polymers (such a material looks very attractive, as it is made in color).

Why is it necessary to install a drainage system

  1. The integrity of the foundation of the house is preserved. If organized outdoor drain, from the roof, wastewater will not erode and wash it away.
  1. During hail or heavy snowfall, drainage provides safety. Snow, accumulating on the roof, collects in large clods and can injure if it falls from a height.
  2. With the help of a drainage system, you can control wastewater, direct it to the right place and get rid of puddles in front of the house.

All these qualities make outdoor structures quite popular not only in industrial, but also in private construction.

Depending on preferences and needs, you can choose the section of pipes. Drains can be rectangular, round and square.

Device

The outdoor gutter consists of the following elements:

  • Horizontal gutters that receive moisture flowing from the roof.
  • Vertical drain pipes for draining water from the roof.
  • Funnels necessary for receiving wastewater and diverting them into the gutters.
  • Plugs that are installed at the ends of the gutters.
  • Fasteners (brackets for gutters and holders for pipes).

Efficiency drain system largely depends on the shape of the gutters. Transverse section given element it happens:

  • semicircular;
  • rectangular;
  • trapezoidal.

In addition to the standard set of elements, it may include:

  • Stormwater inlets that redirect water from downpipes to
  • Mesh liners. They are installed in funnels to retain debris that can clog the drainpipe.
  • Droppers providing the best stack from the edge of the roof.

Installation of an external drain

The drainage device includes two stages:

  • project development;
  • mounting.

Any drainage device begins with the development of a project. As a rule, on its basis, an estimate and a work plan will be drawn up in the future. The project should make a calculation of the diameter and cross section of pipes, their location, the number of receiving funnels and drainage guides. When working, you need to take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof and the angle of the roof. Experts advise installing a drain pipe and a funnel at each corner.

For you will need:

  1. Water drainage system.
  2. Fasteners (hooks, brackets, gaskets, etc.).
  3. Perforator, screwdriver, hammer, saw.
  4. Installation instructions. It is different for all manufacturers, so you should strictly follow all the recommendations.

First of all, you need to measure the corners of the house. you need to start from the highest of them. Using a puncher and a screwdriver, a bracket is mounted on the cornice overhang. The next fastening is done at a distance of 50-60 cm. It is imperative to take into account the angle of inclination of the drain, which should be up to 5 mm for each m / p.

The system can be assembled on the ground or immediately on the roof, but the first option is more convenient. Many companies immediately produce elements with hidden locks, therefore, to connect them, you will not need any additional mounts. The only thing that needs to be done is to thoroughly coat each seam with sealant. After that, you need to lift the pipe and install it on a hook. In the places indicated in the project, special holes are made for water intake funnels, from which the drain pipe of the external drain is led to the drainage or into the yard.

Where is the water to be diverted to?

If the house is located on a hill, under drainpipes Concrete gutters can be laid on the ground. Water will flow down them. If the surrounding buildings or land do not allow natural drainage of wastewater, a drain pit is constructed. If there is a well or well on the site, the pit is located near them. As a rule, the size of the drain pit is 1-2 meters. In order to prevent the walls of the excavation from crumbling, it is lined with bricks from the inside, while leaving a hole on one side for the inlet pipe. The effluent entering the pit will gradually go into the ground. pipe leading to drain pit, laid in a trench with a slope, while located below the depth of soil freezing. If the laying depth is less, the pipe or the ground above it must be insulated.