Is it possible to plant trees in summer. Grafting and regrafting of fruit trees: types and rules. Grafting in the lateral incision

Great variety of varieties fruit trees- the dream of any gardener, which can be realized by mastering the technique of grafting. In an article prepared by the editors of the site site, we will talk in detail about optimal timing, basic methods and how to graft trees.

Basic concepts

First, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the basic concepts that will be applied when we talk about vaccination technology:

Rootstock. This is the name of the plant on which we will plant new variety. As a rule, the grafting is done in the lower part of the plant. It can be a trunk (stem) or a root.
Scion- this is that part of the varietal plant that will be grafted onto the stock. The scion will form upper part plant, which is responsible for its varietal characteristics.

Rootstock and scion must match each other. Otherwise, engraftment may not occur. Plants that are botanically related are usually selected. You can not graft a pear on a birch. A forest pear or quince is suitable for her, if the creation is intended dwarf variety. However, pears, on separate branches of which apples grow, are very common.

Why you need to vaccinate

In horticulture, grafting is the transfer of part of one plant to another plant with the task of their mutual fusion. Subsequently, a new holistic organism is obtained, where a strong root system one "parent" begins to provide growth, as well as the formation of the ground part of the second. Moreover, this second one is invariably a specially selected species with the necessary qualities, as well as characteristics.

You ask: what is it for? In fact, grafting fruit trees can solve a lot of different difficulties in garden plot:

The most important thing is to shorten the waiting period for the first harvest. Trees bred from seed/stone will bear fruit not earlier than in five to six years, and in most cases in general in ten to fifteen years. And grafted on mature tree or for a 2-3-year-old seedling of the species, they can please the harvest in the second or third year.
Vaccination will allow you to quickly get the look that you liked (for example, you saw a neighbor, family members in another area and “sunk down”). And you don’t need to buy a seedling, looking for such a variety in all nurseries - it’s enough just to get a cutting from a tree you have seen,
Through vaccination different types on one tree you will greatly increase the diversity fruit crops in private garden and save space at the same time. On one apple or pear tree, for example, you can have three or four different varieties, and on a wild plum you can grow cherry plum, plum, and apricots at the same time!
Grafting allows you to quickly replace an unsuccessful (not liked) view with a new one, with better parameters.
With the help of grafting, it is possible to save a favorite variety if the trunk is injured (by mice, sunburn, misses when leaving) and the tree is threatened with death.
Vaccination will help to obtain valuable, but hardly applicable to your conditions, fruit species. Even in mid-latitude conditions, you can harvest tender southern crops if you graft them onto local hardy varieties.

In addition to all the necessary changes in your garden, grafting is also an interesting activity. You will see: as a result of the very first results, you will be indomitably “dragged” into this world of grafting man-made miracles.

When to vaccinate

The best time for tree grafting in spring is early March - mid-April. In early spring usually grafted with cuttings. For successful splicing of tree parts, you need active movement juices in the rootstock. The scion should be in a calm state; for this, the cuttings are kept in a cool place for as long as possible. Budding is carried out later, at the end of April - May. Stone crops are grafted earlier, time spring vaccination pome fruits later, since the movement of juices in them is activated later.

Important! The time for summer vaccination comes when it ends active growth branches. Vaccination is carried out with fresh grafts, a maximum of 2 - 2.5 hours after cutting.

For some types of fruit trees, autumn grafting is carried out. It can be successful if warm weather will last a long time.

Winter vaccination is a risky business. An exception when trees can be grafted in winter are plants wintering in a nursery or indoors in tubs.

Types of grafting fruit trees

The option of grafting technique depends on the period of the year, the condition of the stock, as well as the scion, variety and some other factors. The most common methods for grafting fruit trees include:

Budding fruit trees. Fast and economical way, from one young shoot in the growth period, take up to five buds. To prepare the scion, cut out the shield-eyes with a growth bud from the shoot. Make a T-shaped incision in the bark on the rootstock. Place the scion in the incision, tie the wound. After two weeks, check the well-being of the procedure.
Graft for the bark. The method is suitable for joining a rootstock, as well as a scion, which are quite different in thickness. For the operation, cut the base under a smooth stump, make a cutout on the bark. In the role of a scion, a young shoot with two or three awakening buds is suitable. Make an angled cut on the handle, insert into the incised base bark. Tie, then treat with garden pitch. Plant two or three scions per rootstock.
Copulation fruit trees. Use for young thin shoots that cannot be hooked onto the bark. On the rootstock, as well as the scion, make oblique cuts, combine them with each other, tie them, then treat them with garden pitch. If the stock is thicker than the scion, place the cut of the planted cutting on the side of the base.
Grafting in the side cut. On the rootstock on the side, make an incision with a narrowing to the bottom, cut the scion cutting from both sides and insert it into the incision on the base. Tie.
Cleavage grafting. Cut off the base at a height of twelve centimeters from the ground, make a split in it, temporarily fixing the crevice. Cut off the stock from 2 sides, forming a wedge, stick it into the crevice. This method does not require tying, but carefully treat all open wounds of the plant with garden pitch.
Ablactation fruit trees. The method helps to renew or replace damaged parts of the plant. Cut into the scion, as well as the rootstock, sections up to five centimeters long, connect, and also tie together.

Budding

This is one of the most common vaccination methods. The scion during budding is a single kidney (or, as gardeners often call it, an eye). It is taken from the offshoot of a cultivated species and grafted onto the trunk of either a wild branch or another varietal plant.

In the spring, they are budded (grafted) with a bud that formed the previous summer. It is taken from cuttings harvested in autumn or at the end of winter. Such a bud will grow and give rise to a new shoot in the current season - that is why spring budding is called budding with a sprouting eye.

However, during summer budding, the vaccination is performed with a kidney that has matured in the current season (cutting it straight from the tree before the operation). It will take root, winter in a new place and only move into growth. next spring. That is why summer budding is called sleeping eye budding.

Benefits of budding:

Due to the small grafting area, the stock is almost not injured.
If budding does not work out, the vaccination can be carried out again on the same rootstock.
A minimum of graft material is required. This is extremely important if you managed to get only one cutting of a valuable variety: three or four eyes will allow you to bud three or four rootstocks!
The budding procedure takes very little time, which is also important for the gardener.

Suitable conditions for budding occur twice a year. Both periods are connected with intensive sap flow in the rootstock:

early spring, when the buds move into growth
part of the second half of summer - from the end of July to mid-August.

During these periods, the bark of the rootstock exfoliates freely, and the cambium cells divide intensively, which simplifies the procedure, and the kidneys eventually take root as successfully as possible.

Graft for the bark

Sometimes empty places form in the crown of a tree (for example, some branches were injured from the cold). In this case, bark grafting is similarly applied. For this purpose, an oblique cut is made on a branch or shoot, and an incision in the shape of the letter T is made on the bark. Then the end of the shoot is either inserted into this incision, tightly bandaged with a bandage and smeared with garden pitch. Cuttings for such grafting are taken thin, in order to make it easier to press the cut areas.

With oblique lateral budding, two oblique cuts are made at the ends of the cutting at angles of approximately 40 °, and an oblique cut is made on the branch, the depth of which is slightly greater than the length of the lateral side of the wedge at the base of the cutting. A cutting is inserted into the resulting gap. Then the grafting site is tied with a strapping material and a garden var is applied.

At a time when the bark falls off the wood easily, the bark grafting method, which has an L-shaped incision, can be used. In this case, on the one hand, one oblique cut of three to four centimeters is performed, and on the other hand, a small cut. The cut in the shape of an inverted L should be at an angle to the axis of the branch.

The upper incision is made at an angle of more than 90 ° and obliquely, so that the stalk is well strengthened in the section of the bark. It is required to make sure that the layers of the cambium converge with each other. For strength, they need to be fixed with carnations, tied with a bandage, and also coated with garden pitch.

Grafting into the gap is also carried out during the period when the bark of apple or pear trees easily falls off the wood. The stalk for such grafting is chosen extremely thin. At its base, a wedge of two to three centimeters is cut, and a five-centimeter incision is made on the branch. The stalk is placed in a slot so that six to eight buds remain on it to form a fruit branch. With this method, the gap needs to be treated with garden pitch, and tying and auxiliary fastening with carnations are not necessary.

It is advisable to harvest the cuttings that are planned to be used for grafting at the end of autumn (the last days of October - the beginning of November). They are cut off from mature shoots one year old, growing from south side trees, as well as shrubs.

Copulation

Copulation is a garden grafting of trees, where the cutting is similar in diameter to the rootstock. It should not exceed 1.6 cm. Nai best time for copulation is the spring period, a couple of days before the buds bloom in the garden. If you want the grafting to be successful, the stock should just start to wake up, and the graft should still be at rest. For this purpose it is prepared late spring and left deep in the snow. There are two ways of copulation: ordinary and improved.

Ordinary copulation is when oblique sections of the stock, as well as the scion, of the same size grow together. The length of the cut should be made at an inclination of 15-25 °. The area of contact should be five times the cross-sectional area of the rootstock.

How to do:

An oblique sharp cut on the scion is performed below the kidney 1-1.6 centimeters down. The total number of eyes should not exceed five pieces. And above the uppermost kidney, the cut is made blunt. If the cuts are made according to the rules, then the rootstock and scion are entirely the same, forming a single branch. It remains to carefully fix it with electrical tape, trying not to shift in the cut zones. It is not recommended to cover the kidneys.
Improved copulation is distinguished by the fact that the oblique cuts of the rootstock, as well as the scion, are additionally incised with a knife, creating peculiar tongues, which in the future adhere and grow together more tightly.

Recommendations for summer residents: when grafting fruit trees in the garden, it is not advisable to touch the open wood of the rootstock, as well as the scion, with hands and third-party objects. Because of this, it is possible to infect or injure the tissues of the tree, which in the future will negatively affect the survival of the scion.

In a side cut

This method consists in grafting a cutting from a side view of a branch or seedling. Regrafting trees in this way can be done both in spring and summer, and on overgrown seedlings it is also suitable for winter grafting. With this method, it is possible not to cut the branches in the year of grafting until full survival and regrowth of the cutting, and the graft itself can be performed in any branch.

When grafting young trees it is very important total number select branches for regrafting those that have at their disposal a normal angle of retreat and are convenient for future skeletal branches.

On these branches, at a distance of twenty centimeters from their base, oblique cuts are made. For their implementation, only copulation knives are used. One side of the notch should be one centimeter longer than the other.

A cutting with three buds is prepared with two wedge-shaped cuts diagonal on both sides, in addition, one side of the wedge-shaped rib should be longer than the other, just like a cut on a rootstock knot. At the end of the preparation, the stalk is wedged into the incision and tightly bandaged plastic wrap.

Cleavage grafting

During the grafting of trees with your own hands, the most important thing is to combine the cambial layers of the scion, as well as the rootstock. For this use various methods cut cuttings. In summer, they are grafted not with a cutting, but with a kidney.

Before grafting trees into a split, learn the correct sequence of operations:

Choose scion and rootstock of approximately the same thickness.
Make two equal cuts from below on the cutting of the scion, creating a wedge.
To graft trees into a split, cut off the top of the stock with pruners.
With a knife, cut the rootstock from top to bottom, creating a split.
Push the scion into the split of the rootstock with a wedge. If the diameters do not match, move the cutting to one side, connecting the cambial layers.
Wrap the grafting site tightly with elastic tape.
Cut off the excess scion with secateurs, leaving two or three buds. Coat the cut with garden pitch.

If you have grafted the tree correctly, as shown above, with a successful fusion, the growth of the scion will soon be observed. If the vaccination is bad, after two to four weeks the cutting dries up. By the end of the season, the growth may be slightly inferior to the usual, and the fusion becomes complete. special care in the future, there will be no need for vaccinations at the site. Although it is recommended to tie the seedling to a support, because. the area of accretion for a year or two can be fragile.

For most breeds, there are aspects of vaccination that need to be known. The percentage of successful vaccinations directly depends not only on skill, but also on the breed of the plant. In all cases, a dormant (not growing, at rest) cutting is taken for the scion.

Ablactation

Ablactation is a simple but rarely used method of grafting plants, in which shoots that are next to each other grow together. In other words, the scion is not cut off, but applied to the rootstock. This method is also called proximity grafting.

You can combine the shoots in the butt, by approaching the tongue or the saddle, etc. In other words, the grafting mechanism is almost in everything similar to a simple or improved copulation.

As soon as the branches are completely grown together, the graft is disconnected from the original plant, and then it grows, and also feeds only on the rootstock.

On the scion, as well as the stock at the same level, having removed the bark in advance, make cuts equal in length and width. If the plants are already very old, also cut off the shoots upper layer wood.

Do not cut too long. Their length should be up to five centimeters.

Attach the rootstock and scion to each other with cuts so that their cambial layers converge.
After that, tie the vaccination site tightly with twine or special tape, then cover with garden pitch or plasticine.
Near the grafting area, tie the branch of the original plant with wire (not very tight!), so that later it would be easier to detach the scion from it.
In order for the rootstock and scion to grow together better, many gardeners graft plants in a way that approaches the tongue. This method of ablactation differs only in that splits are made on the sections of both shoots: on one from top to bottom, and on the other from bottom to top. As with copulation with a tongue, it is thanks to the splits that the stock and scion are held together most tightly.

The article is addressed beginner gardeners, taking the first steps in the summer vaccination apple trees.

The article addresses the question of how to grow on one trunk different varieties apples.

It's told step by step, where to get a kidney for vaccination how to choose a strong stock, when it is better to bud in the summer, as well as useful videos.

Grow different varieties on the same apple tree- quite an achievable goal for fruit growers.

To do this, you need to master the technique of grafting fruit trees, know the timing, clarify the compatibility of varieties.

Violation of technology will lead in 90% of cases to an unsatisfactory result and wasted time.

In practice, it has been proven that top scores gives summer vaccination by kidney (mid-June-end of August).

because the second period of sap flow is richer in nutrients, the tree has already grown stronger after hibernation, will be able to provide the grafted eye with everything necessary.

Not the last role is played by the availability of free time, when the spring emergency has already passed and only current events remain.

Rootstock selection

Rootstock.

Optimal rootstock it is considered a one-two-year-old shoot grown from a seed. Varieties:

Anise.
Chinese.
Antonovka.

originally zoned, resistant to local diseases and climate. Their disadvantage is that fruiting occurs 4-5 years after vaccination.

Dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks more precocious and bear fruit for 2-3 years, but require constant additional care: watering, top dressing, pruning.

Scion preparation

Rootstock preparation.

desired variety it is more convenient to take at . For this, annual lignified branches 30-40 cm long are suitable, to be removed.

Used for vaccination growth buds, more elongated than flower buds. They are located in the middle part of the annual growth.

On a note! On the illuminated side of the tree, the buds are the most viable.

From the harvested shoots cut off 4-5 cm tops, remove leaves, stipules. Leaf petioles should be left for convenience. further work and as an indicator of survival.

It is good if the grafting material can be taken in a neighboring garden and start budding on the same day.

If this is not possible, the cuttings with buds must be protected from drying out - wrapped in a damp cloth or transported in plastic bottle wrapped in wet paper.

Preparation for vaccination

Grafting knife.

Vaccination Tool is prepared in advance.

Grafting knife must be sharp enough to cut wood into cellular level rather than crush or tear it. The burrs left after the incision prevent the passage of juices, which significantly reduces the nutrition of the kidney and the chances of full engraftment.

For a good exfoliation of the bark the day before, the stock is watered abundantly.

Budding is carried out in cloudy, windless weather. On a hot day, the chances of a dense fusion are reduced and it is necessary to additionally shade the operation site with plastic wrap to prevent burns and drying out.

Many gardeners for insurance two buds are grafted onto one stem at a distance of 10-15 cm from different sides. In the future, a stronger shoot is left as the main trunk.

Execution technique

Summer bud () is similar surgical intervention into the human body.

Therefore, the requirements for it are the same:

Purity.
Speed.
Accuracy.

Grafting technology:

Budding. step by step algorithm.

Leaves and branches are removed from the rootstock at a level of 15-20 cm from the ground.
The grafting site and the stalk with the kidney are washed clean water, wipe with a dry cloth.
With a grafting knife, cut the bark to the wood across the seedling .
From the middle of the transverse incision down, make an incision 2-3 cm long.
Raise the corners of the bark at the T-junction.
Choose a suitable bud on the handle.
Cut off part of the stem 2.5-3 cm long, which includes a thin strip of bark with wood, and with a dormant bud in the middle of the shield.
With a knife bone, peel off the bark on the rootstock so that the shield enters the cut without effort.
Insert the kidney into the incision, holding the handle, until it stops. Cut off the excess shield at the level of the transverse incision of the scion.
Wrap the bud site tightly polymer tape(duct tape) from top to bottom. Leave the eye open.

Attention! The speed and quality of splicing depends on the tightness of the fit of the cut parts.

The whole procedure is carried out in one step and in the shortest time. Beginners are advised to practice in advance to gain experience.

After 2-3 weeks, it will be seen whether the vaccination was successful.

If the petiole is dry and fell off from touch, everything is in order, the kidney has engrafted b.
Otherwise - Something went wrong, over time, the eye will dry out and overgrow with a new bark.

Summer vaccination is convenient in that if the gardener fails, he has time to try again.

Rootstocks in the trunk of an apple tree.

Timing

At the end of June vaccinate first early maturing varieties so that this year's growth reaches 30-50 cm.
In July, with the beginning of the second sap flow, vaccinations for the bark take root better.
For August varieties of late ripening will remain. New branches on them will appear next year.

Watch the video on how apple trees are grafted in the summer. Gardening experience.

Grafting is a procedure for transplanting a bud or cutting from a tree of one variety to a tree of another variety. Almost everyone experienced gardener is engaged in grafting trees in order to develop new varieties of fruit plantations in the garden. This method is recognized as one of the best ways to propagate varietal plants.
Some factors influence the timing of tree grafting in summer, autumn, winter and spring - these are climatic conditions, plant characteristics, etc.

Purpose of vaccinations

Grafting trees has many benefits. It is carried out not only for the purpose of propagating new varieties of trees, but also in order to save space on the garden plot, correct the shape of the crown, rejuvenate and improve general condition plants in the garden.

Experienced gardeners know that best timing grafting fruit trees, summer. However, many successfully carry out this procedure at other times of the year, using different methods.

First of all, you should study the compatibility of the grafted parts of trees - scion and rootstock. For example, grafting a pear on a birch will be ineffective, but if you graft an apple tree on an apple tree or on a pear, you can get a new variety of fruit-bearing tree.

Grafting time for fruit trees in summer

The best time for this procedure is July-August. Pears are grafted first, followed by apples, plums and cherries. Grafting of peaches and apricots is carried out in more late deadline- in August. The preparation of the scion is carried out in advance of the moment of processing the plantings. At this time of the year, trees are grafted with a green bud or current year's shoots.

Grafting trees in autumn

It is difficult to say that autumn is the best time for grafting trees. Since at this time of the year gardeners are more engaged in preparing material for propagation and processing trees before wintering. It is worth remembering that if you decide to carry out such a procedure at this time, then you should not delay it. Everything must be done before the onset of frost.

AT middle lane and in the Moscow region, grafting of trees is carried out in the summer. This is the best time for such an operation in cool climates. By winter, the plants have time to grow together and take root.

Grafting garden trees in winter

As is known, in winter period all plants in the garden arrive at rest, so it is not recommended to carry out any rejuvenation, transplantation, etc. procedures. Grafting trees in winter can be quite successful if the required temperature is maintained at the time of this procedure.

Small frosts do not affect the survival rate of the scion. The effectiveness of such an operation is possible at a temperature not lower than -2 degrees. With more low temperatures the plant may die. After the work has been done, the tree is well wrapped up at the grafting sites to protect it from the cold.

The result of such manipulation can be observed only in spring or summer. At this time of the year, trees are grafted with cuttings, which are harvested in the fall.

Grafting fruit trees in spring

Most gardeners carry out this manipulation in the spring, because this time of the year is the best time to work in the country. For this purpose, cuttings are used, on which the kidneys have not yet had time to swell. This is very important, if you are late with this, then the procedure will have to be postponed for the summer.

It is during this period of the year that you can achieve best results after this manipulation. Before starting this process, it is necessary to water the tree abundantly, then loosen the soil around it. This will improve air circulation and soil moisture capacity.
Thus, the roots of trees will nourish the necessary substances, oxygen, accelerate their growth and development.

Good afternoon friends! Elena is in touch - we continue to settle down on the site.

Every gardener dreams of beautiful garden with plenty of fruit. Buying ready-made seedlings is expensive, and besides, you can run into a scam. It is better to create a variety of varieties with your own hands. Let's find out what grafting is in plants, how to graft fruit trees different ways what equipment is useful in this and what role the weather plays.

Grafting is a vegetative (without seeds) method of plant propagation, when one plant or part of it takes root on another.

That part (stalk, bud or branch) that is grafted and carries the varietal characteristics of a plant is called a scion. And the basis on which the scion takes root is the stock. They can serve as young plant(wild or cultivated), and old, and even broken. The stock is responsible for the nutrition and growth of the tree, determines its frost resistance.

The main purpose of vaccination is to obtain cultivated plant, since fruit trees do not transmit their varietal qualities through seeds. If you have high-quality wilds (seedlings) nearby, grafting your favorite varieties on them is easier, more reliable and cheaper than buying a ready-made seedling.

In order to save space You can graft several varieties on one trunk at once.

So it is possible replace the one you don't like to a more successful one.

And, of course, this way you can increase the frost resistance of the crop(for example, if an apricot is grafted onto an adapted local conditions plum).

We select the material

How to choose a rootstock?

Basic rule: the rootstock must be of the same species as the scion. The apple tree is well grafted onto the apple tree, the pear tree onto the pear tree, the sweet cherry tree onto the sweet cherry and cherry, etc. It is known that the apple tree takes root well on the mountain ash (and as a result of its “rapprochement” with other trees, new varieties were obtained), but everything is better -use genetically similar material.
The tree must be chosen healthy and strong.
Scion and rootstock must be compatible in terms of growth.
It is desirable that the fruits ripen at the same time. Skillfully selected varieties allow you to break this rule without losing the result, but this is the path of experienced gardeners.
If you want to get a columnar apple tree, the stock must be appropriate.
A tree grown from a seed is tall, has deep roots, is durable and more resistant to adverse factors. Whereas the clonal rootstock (obtained by cuttings) is low, it begins to bear fruit earlier and brings more fruit of the presentation.

How to choose a scion?

To make sure you palatability varieties, the donor tree must be mature and bear fruit for at least 2 years.
The cuttings must be one-year-old, healthy, without visible damage to the bark, and on the cut under the bark have thin layer green cambium.

Necessary tools and materials

The following tool is used for vaccination:

Secateurs- for cutting cuttings.
Copulation knife- to separate the bark.
garden saw- for cutting thick branches.
garden knife- for cutting thin branches. Some use regular clerical instead.

Along with the usual knife, an budding knife is used: it is equipped with a “bone” for separating the bark. In addition, there are combined knives - with two blades on the handle.

Some gardeners advise using several knives: one for cutting branches, the second for cuts, and the third for putty with garden pitch.

Additionally, you may need a flat screwdriver (to make a wedge in place of the split).

Must have on hand electrical tape or film and garden pitch (resin).

The tool must be sharp and serviceable. Must be processed before each use alcohol.

When can trees be grafted?

Let's deal with the question, when can trees be grafted? Vaccinations are winter, spring and summer. Each season has its own benefits.

Winter vaccination allows you to get a varietal one-year-old seedling next fall.

Its main amenities:

the gardener has more time;
work is carried out in a warm room;
survival rate - 97%.

Timing winter vaccinations fluctuate from December to mid-April. The main thing is to finish the work 2 weeks before planting the seedlings. Preparation begins in the fall: before frost, one-year or two-year-old shoots are dug up (you can also use root growth) with a trunk thickness of at least 7 mm, cut off part of the roots and put them away for storage in the cellar. For scion, annual shoots are cut from the outer part of the crown, varieties are signed and also put in the cold. 2 days before vaccination, they are transferred to a warm place.

Vaccination in the spring considered the most physiological. It lasts from March to early June, during active sap flow on the rootstock. The scion can be harvested in the fall or cut immediately before the process. For successful fusion, he must “sleep”.

Summer vaccinations have their advantages:

You can assess the condition of the overwintered stock and choose the best trees.
Cuttings do not require storage.
There is time to try again.
The grafted branch tends to give more side branches, which is convenient for crown formation.

The optimal time for vaccination is August. In summer, plant in cloudy but dry weather. The leaves from the cutting must be removed. It is also important what time to vaccinate. In the heat (if it is not possible to wait it out), work is carried out before noon and after 16 hours.

How to harvest cuttings?

The stalk is not just any branch, as it seems at first glance.

For creating good garden material must be carefully selected:

It is necessary to harvest cuttings from a fruit-bearing tree that has shown a good yield.
An annual shoot with at least two buds is taken as a cutting (it is better when there are 4-5 of them).
Foliage and bark should be healthy.
Branches on the outer south side of the crown are best suited, where there is better illumination.
It is advisable to take material from the middle tier.
The cross section of an ideal handle is 6 - 7 mm (like a simple pencil).
In the spring, the buds on the cuttings should sleep.
If you are going to graft in the summer, it is better to cut the graft on the day of vaccination and use it within 3 hours.
In winter, cuttings must be checked for viability. Make a small transverse cut: if there is a green layer under the bark, the cutting is alive.

Vaccination methods

There are several ways to vaccinate:

Vaccination on the spot.
Split grafting.
Ablactation.
Budding.

The choice depends on the size of the tree, the climate and the season.

For the bark

This method is used when there is a significant difference in the thickness of the rootstock and scion. Vaccination period - from start to active stage sap flow.

The stock is cut under the stump. As a scion, dormant or awakening cuttings are used, cut to 2-3 buds. The lower part of them must be cut at an acute angle in order to obtain a cut 2.5 - 3 cm long. An incision of the same length is made on the stump, then the bark is carefully separated with a special knife, after which the scion stalk is inserted there. The place of fusion is tied and treated with garden pitch.

For better survival on the handle, along with the oblique, a horizontal incision is also made - the so-called saddle, with which the scion “sits” on the stump.

In total, 2 - 3 shoots can be “planted” on a stump.

Video instruction is below.

In the cut

Produced in stock of any thickness. It is mainly used to renew the crown of an old tree. In this way, you can graft in winter, spring and summer.

A slit narrowing downwards is cut out on the side of the tree, where a scion cut into 2 buds and cut from both sides along an oblique graft is wedged. After that, the plant is tied and treated with garden pitch.

In split

It is used for trees with rough bark or damaged by unsuccessful vaccinations. The simplest and The best way for a beginner. In a split, they are grafted before the start of sap flow.

The stock is cut down under the stump and cleaned with a garden knife. Then a slot is made in it and a temporary wedge is inserted. The scion is a twig with 5 buds, cut from both sides at an angle and inserted into the slot, after which the wedge is removed. If the stock is much thicker, insert a handle on each side. The plant can not be tied, because a natural clamp is created. At the end, all open places are treated with garden pitch. More details are shown in the video.

The copulation method is used on a thin rootstock when grafting over the bark is not possible. It allows you to cultivate very young seedlings, without waiting until the bole is strengthened. Copulation is carried out when the trees are asleep: in winter or spring before the start of sap flow. For winter grafting, trees must be dug up in the fall, and planted with a scion in the spring.

Normal copying is done like this. The graft is shortened to 2 - 3 buds. Equal oblique cuts are made on the scion and rootstock. Then the sections are applied to each other and wrapped with electrical tape. If the branches match in thickness, the scion lies on top. If the rootstock is much thicker, the scion is placed on the side so that the bark and cambial layer coincide - in this case, up to 3 cuttings can be grafted.

The method of improved copulation consists in adding a “tongue” to the cut - an additional incision on both branches. “Tongues” allow for a stronger grip and better hold in the future. If we graft onto a stump, we also make a “saddle” during copulation.

Here is a video on how to copulate.

In addition, summer copulation with green cuttings is possible. This refers to the leafy parts of the stem with several buds. The stalk is planted on an unrooted stock, and then the resulting plant is rooted under conditions high humidity or artificial fog. The method is most often used for grapes and flowers, but can also be used for fruit trees.

Ablactation

It consists in merging two plants, i.e., not a stalk, but a living tree or shrub serves as a scion. The thickness of the plants may be similar or different. The entire growing season is suitable for work, but the best time is spring.

This method is mainly used for garden decoration. It allows you to fill the desired area, close the voids - especially when it comes to creeping forms. Also, with the help of ablactation, you can give the plant extra food from another root.

Ablactation of plants similar in thickness is carried out in the butt (by oblique cuts to each other, “tongues” can be cut out). If the stock is much thicker, its bark is trimmed and a scion is placed there. The place of fusion is bandaged.

Ablactation on the example of citrus grafting.

Budding

Kidney grafting, i.e. budding, is the most common type of grafting. The graft for grafting is a single bud, which gardeners call the "eye". It is taken from the shoot of a cultivated plant and takes root on a branch or trunk of another variety or wild game.

Spring budding is carried out by a bud formed last summer. For this, cuttings are harvested in autumn or at the end of winter. Already in the same season, the kidney will begin to germinate and give rise to a new shoot.

If the vaccination is carried out in the summer with a freshly cut kidney, then it will take root, overwinter and begin to grow only next spring.

Video about the features of summer budding:

How long does the vaccine take?

After vaccination, it is necessary to observe the plant. How long does a graft take root on a tree? After 2 weeks, the accustomed shoots begin to grow. A month later, it is already clear whether there is a result, because the stalk that has not taken root dries up. If everything went well, the graft with the stock will grow together in 1.5 - 2 months.

As the shoot grows, it is necessary to loosen the strapping. When the scion grows 10 cm (or after a year), it can be completely removed.

Can conifers be grafted?

Graft coniferous trees and shrubs is not only possible, but also effective. With its help, you can settle in the garden a large number of ornamental plants.

The basic rules are the same as for fruit trees: they select healthy plants of one species, cuttings are stored for no more than 2 weeks, work is carried out as quickly as possible.

There are also differences:

it is better to cut the cuttings from the upper tier;
the optimum air temperature at the time of vaccination is + 15 + 22 degrees. In areas with a cool climate, a bag must be put on the plant.

An important point: all the needles are removed from the scion, leaving only the top. The appearance of new needles is an indicator of success and a signal that it is time to remove the package.

Tricks and wisdom of the gardener

To improve the results of vaccination work, these tricks and wisdom from professionals will help:

An even cut of the cutting is a test for beginner gardeners. In addition, you need to properly cut at a time. Therefore, before garden work it is advisable to practice on pear branches: they have solid wood.
A good garden pitch should soften in the sun without heating.
Use a special, sharp, serviceable tool treated with alcohol.
Before work, rinse the cuttings with water and keep in a damp cloth.
Avoid prolonged contact grafting material with air and do not touch it with your hands.
Sections of the bark and cambium on the scion and rootstock should match as much as possible.
The longer the cut, the more successful the fusion.
At the bottom of the scion, it is recommended to remove 0.5 - 1 cm of the bark to increase the area of fusion.
Above the cut at the scion, it is desirable to have a healthy kidney, because this stimulates the development of the branch. In addition, if the cutting breaks, a new varietal shoot can be grown from this bud.
It is desirable to process with a garden pitch not only the end of the stock, but also the upper cut of the scion. This reduces evaporation, thereby providing better survival. In addition, a bag can be put on the place of accretion. Bud break will show when the pack can be removed from the vaccine.
The bark removal tool can be made from an ordinary 100 mm nail. To do this, you need to grind it to half the thickness and 2 cm of length, and then sharpen the tip.
If you tie several sticks that rise above the scion to the graft, this will protect the escape from birds that like to sit on wrapped branches.

Planting grafted seedlings

Grafted trees are planted in the ground in the same way as ordinary trees. Here we will only touch on the points related to vaccination.

There are different opinions why it is impossible to bury the vaccine in a seedling. The most harmless: the scion forms roots, which reduces the winter hardiness of the plant. They also write that the vaccine will die. The most correct answer: the graft is located above the root collar. Therefore, if the graft is deepened, then the root collar will be covered, and this will lead to the death of the tree.

In which direction to plant a tree by grafting, does not have of great importance. Just pay attention to the location. skeletal branches seedling. They need to be directed to the north or northwest, because in the future the main development of the branches will go from the south side.

May your garden grow strong and healthy! Subscribe, we will help you with good advice.

It is based on the ability to preserve its integrity, perhaps due to the cambium - the active substance that is located under the bark.

With this procedure, on the scion (what we will graft) and the rootstock (on which we will graft), specially made cuts are superimposed on each other so that the layers of the cambium are connected. Then they are pressed tightly against each other and given time to grow together.

Grafting fruit trees makes it possible:

preserve the value of the variety, which is lost during pollination;
approximately halve the timing of the onset of fruiting;
if you choose the right stock, you can grow a dwarf specimen, then they will ripen faster;
you can grow varieties that are not adapted to your climatic conditions, but due to the stock with well-developed roots, the tree can become drought-resistant and not freeze in winter;
it is easy to grow several varieties on one rootstock, that is, it will be possible to collect different fruits from one;
try out a new variety, and if it meets all the requirements, then allocate a place for planting a separate specimen;
a great solution is to graft a pollinator variety;
save the bole affected by animals or sunburn;
increase productivity and endurance;
completely renovate the garden without large financial outlays.

Did you know? summer way grafting was invented and patented in Lithuania in the early 80s. The operation was carried out on a pear, and the result is a rootstock survival rate of 97%.

Procurement of cuttings and timing

The success of any summer depends on the correctly chosen scion and the timing of the procedure. This is the period of maximum sap flow (the second half of July - August), when the shoots grow, and are not at rest.

Cuttings are cut from a healthy tree with good fruiting from outside crowns with maximum sun exposure. Shoots should be annuals with smooth bark and healthy foliage. Their length should be up to 40 cm, the cut diameter should be 6 cm. The main condition is that the scion should have two formed buds.

it is best to cut on the day of vaccination, in the early morning (up to 10 hours maximum) and use them within 3 hours. If it was not possible to carry out the procedure during this time, remove the cuttings to a cool place, wrapping them with a damp cloth.

Vaccination methods

There are quite a few grafting methods, and in order to know how and when to graft fruit trees correctly, you need to take into account the age of the rootstock, the thickness of the branches, the timing of maximum sap flow, and also possess the necessary skills.

Each method has its own characteristics that you need to know and consider.

Important! Grafting is stressful for the tree, which becomes vulnerable to all sorts of bacteria. Therefore, you need to be sure that there are no plants nearby that are infected with any disease, otherwise the grafted tree may simply die.

Budding

Budding - reliable way for propagation of valuable varieties, in which it is possible, with a minimum amount of grafting material, to obtain largest number seedlings, as one cutting gives several buds.

The presented method is popular, and many nurseries use it. It involves the implantation of a bud taken from a one-year-old branch of a healthy and varietal tree into the rootstock, which must have leaves and bark intact and without damage.

The length of the cutting used should be 40 cm. Two methods of budding are known: for example, if the bark easily leaves, then use a T-shaped incision, and if it is bad, use the butt.

Types of budding:

bridge

To repair bark that has been damaged spring sun or eaten, a summer bridge vaccination must be performed. It is suitable for both and other trees.

If the bark is partially damaged, then one bridge is used, but if it is damaged around the trunk or branch, then such a number of bridges (cuttings) are installed so that the distance between them is no more than 3 cm.

The cuttings grow together, connecting the separated sections of the bark, and provide nutrition to the damaged areas. The performed grafting leads to the expansion of the trunk, because both the lower and upper parts of the cutting go under the bark of the tree.
It is important that it springs a little after being inserted into the cuts, so its length should be a couple of centimeters more than the desired size.

The vaccination itself is performed as follows:

We expand the edges of the wound to healthy tissue.
Bark cuts must be made below and above the injury site.
At the ends of the blanks we make cuts that should be in the same plane.
We insert the cuttings at one end into the cuts so that the cuts are directed towards the wood of the trunk.
We bend them with an arc and insert another cut under the bark.
The grafting site is well treated with garden pitch, wrapped with electrical tape or wide twine. To retain moisture and prevent the germination of "bridges", we cover the top with plastic wrap.

Grafted bridges from cuttings basically quickly grow into the wood of a tree, saving it from death, as they become conductors nutrients and moisture.

In split

Finding out how to properly graft or any fruit tree in the summer in a split, it should be said about the need to make saw cuts, which will make it easier to split the branches of the stock into two parts. In this case, you need to know two rules:

for young tree saw cut is recommended to be done at a distance of 40 cm from the trunk;
for an old tree with thick branches, the cut can be made at a distance of 1 m from the trunk, but the thickness of the branch should be 5 cm.

If the branch is skeletal, it is possible and even necessary to perform several cuts, leaving a distance between them so that the future branch has the correct shape.

On the young tree you need to graft several cuttings on different branches, but there must be a sufficient distance between them. The sequence of operations when performing a split procedure:

Important! For a good fixation of the handle in the split in its upper cut part, it is necessary to cut out straight sections - hangers, which will be the clamps. With this grafting, it is necessary that the bark of the cutting and the hemp must match.

In the cut

Before the procedure is carried out, it is necessary to prepare a tree, which implies rejuvenation. Please note that the thickness of the cuttings should be no more than 10 cm.

Another important point: below the place of the future cut there should be an escape that will provide nutrition. Grafting with cuttings into the cut can be carried out in the summer, and 2 methods are used for this.

Angular way:

Choose a branch 2 cm thick. The bark should be thin.
We make two notches on the hemp with a knife, which should be parallel to each other and have a depth of at least 6 mm. In this case, place the knife at a distance of several centimeters from the edge, tilting it at an angle of 30 °.
We place the cutting in the incision so that it fits snugly and does not fall out. After that, fill this place with prepared garden pitch.
The bonding point must be rewound with electrical tape and protected from bacteria by plastic wrap.

Side way:

With a knife at a distance of 20 cm from the base, we make oblique cuts, and one should be 1 cm longer than the other.
We fix the stalk in the cut and fill it with garden pitch.
We connect the vaccination site with electrical tape or wide twine and cover it with polyethylene in the same way. You can use a soft garden putty.

The cutting must be inserted so that the oblique cut is turned towards the stock wood, and the ledge rests on the end of the stump. Use several cuttings in one cut as a guarantee, as the grafts can break off when growing from the wind.

For further growth, one powerful accustomed process is left, which will later become a branch.

Categories

Popular