When is the pruning of fruit trees in the fall. Autumn pruning of fruit trees: goals, methods and timing. Rules for pruning mature trees

Autumn is a valuable period for adjusting the trees growing on the site, despite the fact that gardeners can not afford such a procedure in all areas. To determine the exact moment of cutting, it is necessary to take into account both individual characteristics various plants and climatic features of your region. For example, if gardeners in the southern regions can afford pruning in mid-October, then the northerners do not have such an opportunity. The main difficulty lies in finding the right gap between the end of the growing season and the first frost. The tree must go into a dormant state, but also not have time to freeze, otherwise its branches will become too fragile. How to trim fruit trees autumn, we will tell further.

During the spring and summer seasons, fruit trees actively branch, new buds form on them. All these processes, on a certain scale, contribute to the growth of the crop, however, if you lose control over them, the trees will “get confused” in their own branches and will not be able to properly distribute resources, which will lead to poor and indistinguishable palatability fruits.

Since the bigger-better law does not apply to plants, it is important to keep a limited number of branches that do not interfere with the development of the tree and are able to bear fruit well. The main purpose of autumn pruning, in turn, is to diagnose the state of the tree after harvest. With the temperature dropping and the foliage falling off, the gardener will have to decide which branches to get rid of and which ones to leave until the next warmer times.

After the leaves fall, the tree goes into a dormant state, which means that it will take less time to “heal” the wounds left after the pruner compared to summer pruning. Summer pruning is dangerous, primarily due to the fact that the hemp remaining after adjusting long time stay moist, favorable conditions for pathogenic bacteria and fungal infections.

Trimming time

It is worth repeating once again that autumn pruning can bring both positive and negative effects, depending on temperature indicators:

Trimming types

Since pruning is sometimes done year-round, it makes sense to ask, are all these adjustment procedures different from each other? They are really different and involve different manipulations depending on the time of year. However, there are those actions that are carried out if necessary at any time. They are associated with the salvation of the tree from destruction, disease and fungi.

To date, there are three main types of pruning that apply to both trees and bushes:

Sanitary pruning, the task of which is to prevent infection of the tree. For example, if a gardener saw pests on one of the branches, or symptoms dangerous disease, he needs to remove the affected area as soon as possible so that the disease does not spread to the whole tree. Once infected sites are removed, they are usually burned to ensure maximum site safety;
Thinning, whose essence is to create a fixed number of branches that would optimally complement the tree, is carried out in the off-season, when the gardener sees a tree without leaves and can make the right choice. In rare cases, thinning is done in the summer if you encounter a problem where the branches cannot support the weight of their own fruits;
Shortening, the commission of which is possible only when the movement of juices through the tree has stopped, and it has passed into a state of rest. Therefore, the best time for such a procedure is the interval "before" or "after" the growing season. AT northern regions it is recommended to shorten the branches before the onset of vegetation in the first half of spring.

What does fall pruning include?

Each season has its own adjustment details, which should be given special attention. autumn pruning includes the following details:

With the proper skills, during the spring pruning of fruit trees, you can also influence their future yield by giving the branches the correct direction of growth. Read more about increasing the fertility of trees below.

Tree treatment after pruning

The dramatic comparison of the saw cut with the wound is by no means an artistic exaggeration. Despite the fact that the left stump does not ooze blood, this does not mean that the tree remains invulnerable even after some sections have been cut off from it. The saw cut is susceptible to freezing and infection. In the end, it simply lowers the plant's immunity to those diseases from which it would not suffer in a normal situation.

The processing of a saw cut largely depends on its size. If the branch you cut was less than three centimeters in diameter, then most likely the tree will cope with the restoration on its own. Enough to disinfect desired area and leave the plant alone. Saws whose diameter exceeds three centimeters are ennobled as follows:

Important! In winter, and sometimes by autumn, cracks may appear on the bark of trees due to temperature changes. Treatment of such damage is recommended in the spring, when the temperature rises above zero. Otherwise, all measures to prevent cracks will be useless. The entire injured area is processed down to healthy wood.

Means for processing

Every gardener has their own recipe for putty, which allows the tree to heal its wound faster. The most common saw cut processing tools and their components are briefly indicated in the table below.

Table 1. Putties for cuts

putty	Description
garden var	You can either make this putty yourself or purchase it ready-made in the store. by the most important components vara are fat and wax, acting as a durable protective film, which prevents possible precipitation from dissolving the substance. The task of rosin, which is also part of the pitch, is to provide stickiness, due to which the putty is attached to the wood. Ash is added to the var if desired.
Clay chatterbox	Clay, mullein, chopped straw and hay are used to make putty. When all the ingredients are mixed, they should be gradually diluted with water. The consistency of the talker should be like sour cream
cement mortar	To make such a solution, cement and fine sand are mixed in proportions of one to three and diluted in water. As an additional ingredient, you can add drying oil. Due to the properties of cement, the solution is excellent for fixing even the deepest wounds.

Important! All patches are applied thin layer(with the exception of those that heal cracks) so that when dried, a film appears on the tree. In this case, the material is applied strictly on damaged areas. The bark of the plants must remain intact in order to exude a cowroll that promotes healing.

Types of fruit trees and their processing

Since the quantity needed by the tree pruning is based on its type and needs, it is difficult to give advice on caring for it without taking into account a particular tree. Some varieties are cultivated year-round and can only grow in warm areas, while others hardly need annual adjustment.

Apple tree

The apple tree is not one of those trees that love autumn pruning. When caring for an apple tree, most of the actions should be planned for the spring season. In summer, it is allowed to adjust the branches when they block the path. sunbeams to ripening fruits.

It is advisable to plan your manipulations in such a way that in the second half of autumn there are only a few cosmetic procedures, such as:

You can read more about it on our portal.

Columnar apple tree

Columnar apple trees require special attention, since caring for them has its own tricks. For example, this tree is pruned only in two cases - at the beginning summer season and late autumn.

When correcting a columnar apple tree, remember that cutting the center conductor of the column is prohibited. If you still cut it, the crown will begin to branch heavily, which will disrupt the structure of the tree. In pruning this apple tree, you need to be guided by the rule "the more you cut, the more intense growth will go shortened branch. However, pruning should be approached with moderation. When removed too large area the branch is in danger of dying.

Video - We cut the apple tree in the autumn season

Pear

The idea that the processing of apple and pear trees are similar to each other is deeply erroneous. Apple tree and pear - two different tree with your needs. For example, if an apple tree should be cared for for at least two seasons, then a pear tree does not require annual attention. Pears don't like low temperatures, because their pruning, as a rule, falls on the beginning of autumn in regions with a temperate climate.

Later in September, gardeners do not start adjusting the tree, not without reason fearing for its death. Most auspicious time for pear pruning - early spring, when the temperature is stable and no longer drops below eight degrees. In such conditions, you can not worry about the well-being of the plant and feel free to take action.

The number of autumn procedures useful for a pear is not large, it includes:

Plum

Plum requires increased attention, regardless of the time of year.

Ensuring proper care of trees and shrubs in the garden will ensure fast growth and their bountiful fruiting. The gardener is required to prune the trees in the garden every year, which will not only form the correct crown, but also prevent the crown from thickening, which can lead to the development various kinds fungal and infectious diseases. Let's tell you in more detail how to properly cut, which will greatly simplify the care of plantings in the garden.

What is pruning for?

Fruit trees should be pruned in autumn in two ways.: thinning and shortening. This improves the growth of perennial plantations, preventing their mechanical damage by snow, strong winds, forms correct growth crowns, and also allows you to remove branches that no longer bear fruit, but are able to take food from the tree, which in turn worsens the yield.

Such works are not particularly difficult, so everyone, even a novice gardener, can handle them. It is only necessary to correctly determine the time when this work is performed, as well as correctly determine those branches and shoots that need to be removed and shortened. Having understood the principles of this work, you can easily carry out such an annual autumn pruning of trees and shrubs in the garden, simplifying your garden care and improving its fruiting rates.

Varieties of the procedure

To date It is customary to distinguish three types of pruning perennial plantings in the garden:

Sanitary.
Formative.
Anti-aging.

Sanitary pruning involves the removal of broken, dried and diseased branches. Such pruning can be carried out in spring and autumn or at the beginning of winter.

Formative pruning of trees and shrubs in autumn is necessary for young and adult plantations, especially during the period active growth. Such work involves thinning and shortening the shoots, which in turn improves the penetration of light inside the crown, the gardener gets the opportunity to control growth, stimulates the development of side shoots and fruit formation. Most often, formative pruning is carried out in the spring, but such work is allowed to be done in the fall, which allows you to remove all incorrectly growing shoots and form the correct crown.

Anti-aging pruning is performed on old trees that are starting to bear fruit poorly and require special attention. When performing this work, the top of the tree is cut off, the crown opens, old shoots and branches are removed. All this allows to improve fruiting rates, which in turn prolongs the life of garden trees.

Tool used

To do this job, you will need the following tool:

You should also take care of the presence of a garden pitch, which is used to process and disinfect the cut site. You can buy such a garden var in most specialized stores or make it yourself on the basis of drying oil.

Step-by-step instructions for pruning young trees

For correct pruning necessary:

Scheme for beginners

Pruning mature trees in autumn for beginners is not particularly difficult and is performed using the following technology:

Rules for caring for old trees

Usually, by 15–20 years after planting trees, their yield indicators are significantly reduced. You can solve this problem by carrying out appropriate rejuvenating pruning of the garden. Such work is carried out in September or October, after the leaves have completely fallen. With such a rejuvenating pruning, the top is cut off and the lateral processes are removed, which are already five or more years old.

Extra shoots inside the crown are removed, which can interfere with the growth of young shoots. Also, when performing such work, all broken, dry and diseased branches should be removed. Proper implementation of such rejuvenating pruning will allow you to get excellent yields in a year and a half, which will last for 4-5 seasons.

Common Mistakes

Common mistakes include the following:

Such spring and autumn pruning is performed and fruit trees in temperate regions. But in the northern regions in the fall, when there is already a possibility of frost, it is not recommended to carry out such manipulations with trees and shrubs.

The timing of the autumn pruning will directly depend on climatic features in your region. It is best to do this work in October, when the trees will shed their leaves, the harvest will be harvested, but there will be another 2-3 weeks before frost.

It is necessary to carry out autumn pruning of apple trees after the foliage has completely fallen off and harvested. Usually this work is done by gardeners in October and November. All broken, rotten and old branches are removed. Experienced gardeners it is recommended to remove shoots growing close to each other, which leads to a significant thickening of the crown. All shoots that grow at an acute angle or are directed inside the crown are removed.

All cuts after such pruning of the apple tree should be treated with paint based on drying oil or garden varnish. Existing wounds on dry branches should be treated immediately, but hemp from young shoots is covered with var only a day later.

With the right choice of time for this procedure, the apple tree will easily endure such pruning, and growth will improve significantly next year, numerous new shoots will appear, and correct crown and in the future, the gardener will be able to get with an apple orchard excellent harvest.

One of the features of pear trimming is that it is recommended to perform such work in a year. Sanitary autumn pruning of such fruit trees is allowed only with a stable plus and no danger of frost in the coming weeks. Remember that in cold weather pears should not be pruned, since such trees do not tolerate frost well, subsequently they get sick a lot and bear fruit poorly.

With formative pruning, the top is shortened and no more than five main lateral skeletal branches are left, forming a pyramidal crown. Every five years, it is worth performing a rejuvenating pruning, which avoids thickening and maintains yields at the proper level.

Correct autumn pruning plum

Plum and other stone fruit trees will require appropriate attention from the gardener. Proper autumn pruning will ensure quality training to winter sleep, and subsequently such trees actively grow and bear excellent fruit. This work should be performed immediately after the leaves fall no later than the first days of November.

Pruning plums in the fall is not particularly difficult:

pruning fruit trees

Autumn pruning of fruit trees will significantly improve the fruiting of the garden. It is necessary to perform such work with cherry plum, shadberry, sea buckthorn, quince and viburnum only after the leaves have fallen. We can recommend that you limit yourself to only necessary measures, remove damaged branches and shoots growing at right angles to the main crown.

If rejuvenating pruning of fruit trees is necessary, then one or two skeletal branches are allowed to be removed, and all branches that are already 5 years old and which practically do not bear fruit are cut off. In the subsequent planting, after performing such a rejuvenating pruning, they quickly restore their yield indicators, which persist for 5-7 years.

Shrub pruning technology will depend on the specific type of planting in the garden. So, for example, two-three-year-old raspberries should be cut to the very bush, leaving only the rhizome in the ground, after which the soil is mulched and high-quality thermal insulation is performed. But red and black currants should be cut in winter using a different technology, removing only old two-three-year-old branches, while forming a powerful bush with several skeletal shoots.

When it is necessary to remove not only the old fruit-bearing branches, but also the young shoots that appeared in spring and autumn can reach a height of 2-3 centimeters. Such young shoots will subsequently bear fruit poorly, so they should also be removed, leaving only one rhizome. Strong raspberry even after such a serious pruning on next year will be able to quickly increase the green mass, delighting the gardener splendid harvest delicious berries.

Trimming methods

Pruning fruit trees has a variety of purposes. Gardeners distinguish several main methods of pruning:

Formative. considered the most important. Promotes the correct formation of the crown and determines general form trees in the area. It is carried out in early spring, before the start of the movement of juice.
Regulatory. Needed to correct an already formed crown. Extra shoots are removed, overloading the tree and preventing good lighting. The period falls on summer time.
Recovery. It is carried out if the plant needs rehabilitation. Dry, damaged branches are removed. This increases the flow nutrients to updated escapes.
Anti-aging. Allows old trees to renew, increase the growth of young fruit-bearing shoots. Promotes the awakening of dormant buds, activates flowering. Held in early spring.
Sanitary. It is intended for the prevention of diseases and the improvement of trees damaged by exposure to external factors. Plants can be infected with a fungus. The branches begin to dry, the bark turns black and flakes off. To prevent the tree from dying completely, all diseased shoots are removed. Some branches are broken under the influence weather conditions and begin to die off, they should also be removed.

Wood processing after pruning

In order not to weaken the vital functions of the plant, after pruning, it is necessary to immediately treat the wounds. On healthy trees, cut points, especially large ones, can be covered with garden pitch.. It prevents cracking and remains on wood for 2 years.

Small sections up to 3 cm in diameter can be coated with water-based acrylic paint. Oil paint is also well suited for these purposes. natural drying oil or groundhog. In the absence of such funds, you can use ordinary clay. When cutting diseased plants, treat the tools with alcohol or a solution of manganese.

The surface to be treated must be dry, smooth and even. All protruding particles must be removed. Overgrowing of the wound starts from the bark, it should not exfoliate.

Tightly adhering to the cut surface, the putty provides protection against leakage of juice and drying of the branch. It is necessary to process even small sections, since the juice flowing down them is favorable environment for the growth of harmful microbes.

Required event. Its goal is to improve health, direct its growth in the right direction and achieve abundant fruiting. Pruning in no way contradicts, but quite the contrary - it keeps pace with the laws of nature, relying on them. Basically, it's an imitation. natural processes, which is one of the measures for caring for cultivated garden trees and preventing them from running wild.

Thanks to competent pruning, each branch of the tree receives required amount light and your own space without disturbing others. Pruning is also used as a therapeutic measure for various fractures due to natural processes.

Finally, by cutting off old dead branches, you free the tree from excess load and allow it to direct its efforts to growth and development, and you save yourself from the danger of breaking off dry branches that can collapse at the most inopportune time and place.

In this article, we will look at the types of pruning fruit trees, find out when it is better to prune them - in spring or autumn, summer or winter, and also study videos for beginners.

Pruning a garden is a procedure that has great importance for plant health and crop quality. It regulates metabolic processes within the tree, redistributing vital resources and directing them to the required parts of the tree.

Together with other agricultural methods pruning balances all parts of the tree:

roots;
wood;
leaves;
fruit.

In the course of existence, the fruit tree is constantly changing, growing at different speeds in different time, directing forces:

to strengthen the root system;
to increase green mass;
for intensive growth;
for flowering and fruiting;
to protect against disease;
to prepare for a period of calm and so on.

His age, physical condition, state of health is changing. In this regard, the goals for which " surgical intervention”, are different, and the type of trimming depends on them.

Based on the intended goals, share six types of pruning:

- delays aging and prolongs life.
Formative- models appearance crowns.
Regulatory- regulates fruiting.
Restorative- brings parts of the plant into tone.
Sanitary- heals the tree and relieves excess weight.
supportive- refreshes and rewards with new forces.

Let's take a closer look at each type.

Anti-aging

After the tree begins to bear fruit, after 2-3 years it is necessary shorten too long branches, which will “wake up” adnexal buds, limit the growth of branches, form a crown, rid the plant of dead fragments and give it the opportunity to improve. This measure is also applied if the flowering activity has decreased.

In addition, such an event will significantly improve the aesthetic appearance of the tree. Anti-aging pruning involves the removal of thickening and hanging branches and excess top shoots, located in good place make skeletal and semi-skeletal branches. Such a procedure can be carried out both in autumn and at the end of winter and at the beginning of spring approximately every three years.

Formative

With the help of forming pruning, it simulates the appearance of a tree, the load on its skeletal part, and allows the plant to develop evenly.

Did you know? It is curious that if the procedure is carried out in February, the branches will go into intensive growth, while the Marchcropping will slow down this process.

Formative pruning goals:

acceleration of the onset of flowering;
increase in productivity;
well-groomed appearance;
ensuring uniform access of the sun to the crown;
increased endurance;
ease of access to the branches for harvesting and care.

Carry out a formative pruning young tree, 3-5 years after its planting.

Formative pruning is not a one-time event, using this technique for several years the crown of the tree is gradually formed by evenly placing well-lit branches in it throughout the skeletal part of the tree. An adult tree that has lost a skeletal branch due to breakage, aging or death, or acquired one, may also need it.

Regulatory

With adjustable trim the already formed crown is preserved in the desired form, branches are provided with uniform lighting, excess young shoots are removed. With its help, the gardener maintains a balance of growth and fruit yield and creates conditions for wood renewal and growth intensity.

It is held from the end of February to April, and also from August to September, it is actively used in industrial gardens.

Restorative

If the plant is damaged for some reason, give it back the opportunity further development recovery pruning will help. With her help form a crown of acceptable size, achieve a balance of its constituent parts, control the number of growing shoots and improve illumination. After such an intervention, fullness returns to the crown, it becomes able to grow and bear fruit.

During the event, diseased and broken branches are removed. It is also used:

to trees injured mechanically or frostbitten;
if the tree has not been cut for a long time and now has a rather neglected appearance;
when excessive growth of the crown has occurred, interfering with neighboring plants and making harvesting and necessary care difficult;
if it has become difficult for light to break through the dense branches of the crown and the lower branches are deficient sunlight.

Sanitary

Sanitary pruning is carried out as planned treatment and as an ambulance. Like most medical measures, it should be carried out as needed when the plant is sick, has acquired dried or broken branches, or frostbite.

This is done at any time of the year, the only obstacle is frost, and the best time is the beginning of summer, when the tree wakes up. Regular and annual sanitary pruning will improve the health of the tree, give it a decent appearance, thinning the crown, and prevent infectious and fungal infections.

It should be remembered that an overly radical procedure will entail consequences in the form of a too thickened crown. You should also consider the age of the tree and its size.

supportive

held regularly during the life of the plants. It helps to support their growth and health, as well as fruiting, pursuing the following goals:

do not let out growing branches beyond the boundaries of the formed crown;
keep the crown in a state of permeability to the sun;
avoid exposure of large branches;
deliver skeletal branches from the young shoots that vex them;
maintain the health and tone of the tree for active growth and stable fruiting.

Determining factors and timing of pruning

The main load on the gardener falls at a time when the frost has already passed, but has not yet begun, that is, from the end of February and throughout almost the entire spring. During this period, there is no longer any need to be afraid that frost will damage the freshly cut plant, and at the same time it will not lose nutrients along with the cut parts.

In some cases, the possibility of pruning up to the flowering period is allowed.

Did you know? In the city of Piedmont, Italy, an unusual double tree grows. It turned out from, on the top of which a cherry seed that had been brought in knows how sprouted. Developing, the cherry pierced through the trunk of the mulberry, and now they are a single whole, each remaining itself.

Early spring is the time to start pruning fruit trees. The first "swallows" in this matter are, and indeed pome fruits. Stones start a little later.

The determining factors for a particular type of trimming are:

tree species;
condition of fruit trees.

If the plant is planted in autumn, it must be corrected before the juices wake up. This applies to both pome and stone fruit crops. If the frosts have severely damaged the branches, it makes sense to wait until the time when the damage is clearly marked.

apple trees- the most stable crops, which are less affected by adverse conditions. It is with them that the work on recovery, rejuvenation and correction begins, and ends with them.

The branches of apple trees are prone to freezing at the ends even in frosts, it is better to clean this kind of damage closer to mid-May.

With cherries, cherries and plums, the principle approach is as follows:

strong cherries or sweet cherries should be pruned after harvest;
if the cherry is weak, circumcision in winter will help - this will stimulate the growth of new shoots in the spring;
it is recommended to prune the plum during the harvesting process, or in the middle or end of June.

They pinch the shoots in the summer to save the plant strength for more important things. Autumn pruning of fruit trees - sanitary.

Important! In the event that the branchesbroke under the weight of snow, ortrunk split during a snowstorm, pruning should be done as soon as possible.

spring

You can start pruning fruit trees in the spring after the main frosts subside, but it will be right if the gardener waits for the time when is the sap flow going to start.

This time is considered the most suitable, since the tissues of the plant during this period are already prepared for the processes that are about to begin to occur in them. The cut in such conditions will heal as quickly as possible - of course, if it is done correctly and processed properly. If a formative procedure is required, it may well be waited for, or even dispensed with in another year.

So, the basic rules that every gardener should follow:

the earliest when you can start pruning is the time when the main frosts are gone, but it is better to wait until the moment you are ready for the juices to start moving;
the cut is made above the eye growing from the crown in the outward direction, making it smooth and even from the inside to the outside.
the skeletal branches with which the trunk continues remain longer;
weak trees are cut short, leaving two or three eyes, on strong trees eight or more eyes remain.

Summer

The concept of " summer pruning"includes several techniques carried out with green shoots that have not had time to acquire bark, in order to thin the crown for access to sunlight:

pinching- in order for shoots to grow from the awakened buds, which will have time to prepare for wintering;
tweezing- for the development of a full-fledged formation of wood in the uterine branch, which will help accelerate and improve fruiting;
breakout- to remove young shoots of no value for the crown, it is easily tolerated and does not need to be processed;
fracture- a rarely carried out technique in order to give the growing branches the required direction;
pruning- to obtain a flower bud near the beginning of the shoot already in the year when it began to grow.

Thus, summer pruning of fruit trees facilitates work in spring and autumn, helps to save nutrients inside the plants and improves fruiting.

Did you know? Designers have learned to form from a living growing tree various items, such as furniture, using various agricultural practices, including pruning.

autumn

Autumn pruning is carried out mainly for sanitary purposes; or, if it is planned to rejuvenate the tree in the spring, protective links are left. This technique is also good at this time of the year for a very. Trimming trees in the fall begins then, when the leaves come.

If you cut off a one-year-old shoot, frost can damage not only the place where the cut is located, but also a decent area around, and this definitely cannot be called successful healing. It will be difficult for such a tree during wintering, which will have a bad effect on the kidneys in the spring. The risk is higher the further north the garden is located.

However, if there is a need for sanitary pruning, the above considerations lose their relevance, vital indications are important here, as they say in medicine. Those affected by the disease must be treated so that the infection does not spread further, and even more so does not pass to neighboring plants. In such cases, the amputated affected parts must be burned.

Fruit trees do not respond well to autumn pruning, and some may die or get very sick after it - for example, plum, cherry or pear. It will also not affect young seedlings in the best way.

in winter

Winter pruning is more appropriate in southern regions where frosts are rare and winters are mild. She is good because:

plants get less stress, as they are in hibernation;
the cuts made are more accurate and of high quality;
it helps that there are no leaves at all, and all the branches are very clearly visible.

The procedure is performed on warm winter days, when it is not lower than -5-7 ° C outside - when it is colder, the wood becomes especially fragile.

When a tree is damaged due to strong wind, icing of branches or excessive weight of snow, and, all the more, threatens with further splitting or breaking, the gardener does not have a question whether it can be cut off. You need to cut it, you just need to wait for the first opportunity, namely, the decrease or absence of frost.

What to do after pruning

Any circumcision leaves a wound surface on itself, from which moisture evaporates. It is also, in fact, an open gate for all kinds of infections. Small sections can heal on their own, while large areas, from 2.5 cm in diameter, need to be processed.

Important! In young peach and apricot, when planting and pruning, even the tiniest wounds need to be lubricated until the tree gets stronger and grows. In an adult apricot and peach, small sections can no longer be processed.

No matter how sharp the saw or hacksaw used to cut it, in any case, the surface after it will not be smooth, so it needs to be cleaned with a sharp garden knife. Then - handle special tool intended for wound healing; for example, or oil-based paint.

You can not use any other paints, in addition to oil, - the solvents that make up their composition will have a detrimental effect on the tree, penetrating into its tissues through a fresh cut. To apply the product, use a spatula, brush or cut knot.

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Garden trees need to be cared for throughout the year. On how rich the harvest will be and how many years it will live garden tree directly affects the correctness and timeliness of care. Pruning trees is of no small importance, because it depends on it how correctly the crown of the plant will be formed. It is necessary to start crown formation already at a very young plant, its main task is to stimulate the strongest branches to grow, as well as to bear fruit, while those that interfere grow in the wrong direction, as well as sick, injured and old, it is necessary cutting down. In order for a tree to have an even distribution of strength, as well as nutrition, it is necessary not only to feed it in a timely manner and protect it from harmful insects and various diseases, but also systematically and correctly pruned in the fall. Yes, on those horticultural crops ah, on which there is a well-formed crown, grows large quantity fruits, and they are of the highest quality.

First you need to find out what is pruning? This is the process of removing a whole shoot or branch or part of it. This method of care is used for both fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs. Pruning is involved in the regulation of growth, development and fruiting of such plants. The purposes of pruning can be both formative and sanitary, since a tree or shrub after this procedure is freed from those branches that can harm it. If the tree is old enough, then gardeners use rejuvenating pruning, after which the plant gains new strength, while the quantity and quality of the fruit remains almost at the same level. This procedure is recommended to be carried out in the spring and autumn time, but there are cases when it is simply necessary for garden culture in summer months. It should be noted that pruning a tree in autumn is possible only on the condition that in this area it is rather soft and warm winter. In the northern regions, experts advise to carry out this procedure in spring time. The fact is that a sharp drop in air temperature after autumn pruning leads to the fact that in those places where the branches were cut, the bark freezes out, and the wood also dries out, and the result of this is the death of the plant. There are types of horticultural crops that need to be cut 1 or 2 times a year, but there are also those that do not need such frequent pruning. Pruning, like other agricultural practices, has certain rules. So, you just need to know when and how a certain garden crop is pruned.

Features of pruning an apple tree

Pruning of apple trees is carried out in spring, and sometimes in summer, when ripening apples have a lack of light due to a too dense crown. And it is also held in the autumn. In the spring, before the sap flow begins, those branches that have frozen over during the winter are removed, and also at this time they form a crown. In autumn, the apple tree is pruned in November, and at the same time, as a rule, the crown is sanitized. At the same time, pruning in the fall can be started only after the end of leaf fall. The columnar apple tree should be pruned either in the first summer days or before winter.

In autumn, you need to remove those branches that are old, injured, diseased, or with signs of decay. Since the plant is at rest at this time, this procedure does absolutely no harm to it.

An approximate plan for the autumn pruning of an apple tree:

first you need to remove large branches that are injured or dry;
from branches growing very close to each other, the strongest should be left, and the rest should be removed;
cut branches growing at an acute angle;
the places of cuts must be covered with paint on drying oil or garden pitch, while the processing of dry branches is carried out immediately, and young ones - after 24 hours;
branches that have been cut must be destroyed.

If the apple tree is young, then with the help of a pruner, it is only lightly pruned, while the current year's growth should be shortened by ¼. After that, these specimens are not pruned for 3–5 years, cutting off only dried and injured branches. However, this is only if the tree does not grow in height too quickly. Those apple trees that are 5–6 years old need pruning of medium intensity - strong branches are shortened by 1/3 of their length. Old apple trees are pruned for the purpose of rejuvenation in 3 stages. So, in the first year, approximately 1/3 of all old branches should be removed, in the second year, another 1/3 of the old branches, and the remaining 1/3 after another 1 year. It is worth considering that the pruner will not cope with powerful adult branches; here you cannot do without a saw. You also need to remember that the tools that are used to trim the branches must be very sharp, and they should be disinfected.

How to prune a columnar apple tree

Regarding the care of columnar apple trees, it must be remembered that the more intensive the pruning, the faster and better the remaining branches will grow. In the event that you cut off more than ½ of the branch, then from those 3 or 4 buds that remain, next spring grow strong shoots. If less than ½ of the branch is removed, then from those 5–7 buds that remain, 5–7 medium shoots will grow. It is forbidden to cut the central conductor of the column, otherwise the crown branching will begin. If, during shaping, they want to achieve a columnar crown, then after planting the seedling, its crown shoot must be tied to a support. From the side shoots, fruit links should be formed. Too powerful shoots must be cut into a ring, because they can cause a growth retardation of the conductor. After the young shoots grow, they form the skeleton of the crown.

Peculiarities of pear tree pruning

When to prune a pear

Those gardeners who still have too little experience believe that you need to cut a pear in the same way as an apple tree, but they are mistaken. A pear tree, like an apple tree, should not be pruned annually. For sanitary purposes, you can cut a pear in the fall only if it is still warm outside. In the same case, if frost has already set in, this procedure must be postponed until next spring, since pruning pear tree at sub-zero temperature not produced. If, nevertheless, the branches are cut off, then the places of the cuts will not be able to heal, and at the same time the branches themselves will freeze and die. best time for pruning this garden crop is spring, when it will be warmer than 8 degrees outside. In the case when the tree needs to be pruned in autumn, this can only be done in September. During pruning carried out in order to form a crown, it must be remembered that the pyramidal shape is more convenient for harvesting fruits.

The formation of the crown of a tree should be started already from the first year of its life, while it is necessary to immediately select the skeletal branches, because this will allow the crown to develop not only correctly, but also symmetrically. pruning annual plants produced at a height of 40 to 50 centimeters from the soil surface. For those pears that are 2 years old, out of the available 6–8 lateral branches, only 3 or 4 should be left, which will take on the role of skeletal ones. They should be trimmed at the same level. The conductor must be cut 20 centimeters higher than the branches that are skeletal. Autumn pruning of adult pear trees is usually done only for sanitary purposes. So, at this time, you should cut off the branches that thicken the crown, as well as injured and sick ones. It is also recommended to shorten the crown and annual shoots by 1/3, but only if the pear tree stretches up too much, this helps to strengthen the plant, as well as increase branching, while the buds will begin to develop more quickly. But at the same time, try not to disturb the shape of the crown, which should be pyramidal, during the procedure. After the pruning is completed, it is necessary to smear the places of the cuts, as well as the existing cracks and damage on the surface of the bark with garden pitch. At the same time, adult dry branches must be processed immediately, and young ones after 24 hours.

The rejuvenating pruning of an old pear tree begins with the top being shortened. However, if the annual pruning was carried out correctly, then the crown should have optimal height. In this case, it is only necessary to thin out the crown, for this all old and dried branches are cut out, as well as those that do not bear fruit and grow at an acute angle or parallel to the trunk, the same shoots that remain must be cut into ¼ part. Processing should be done with paint made on drying oil, or with garden pitch. Such pruning for old trees is recommended to be carried out in the spring, since in this case the plant will endure it less painfully, but this procedure must be carried out before the buds wake up, and the air temperature outside should be at least 5 degrees.

When to prune a plum

Plum should also be cut, like other garden crops, while this procedure is performed when necessary at different times of the year. Spring pruning is carried out before the buds open, at this time those parts of the branches that are frozen should be removed, and the plum should also be prepared for the period of active growth by forming a crown. In the summer, when there is too much fruit, pruning may be necessary to prevent branch breakage. After the end of leaf fall in autumn, it is necessary to prepare this horticultural crop for wintering.

Pruning a plum tree in the fall not only prepares it for the upcoming winter, but also helps increase yields. After the plant stops growing and all the leaves fall, the plant begins to prepare for sleep. At this time, injured, dry, insect-damaged and diseased branches should be cut from the tree, and the top should also be shortened, but this is only when the height of the tree exceeds 250 centimeters. After that, you need to shorten too fast growing shoots, as well as cut off competing shoots, because in spring they will begin to grow and this will lead to a thickening of the crown, which will make the light flow much worse. In young plums, the upper and side shoots should be shortened by no more than 1/3, while the branches that grow inside the crown should be cut off completely. Shortening of old branches is carried out in spring, but if desired, during autumn pruning, you can remove stem branches that have not borne fruit this year, as well as cut off dry or diseased shoots. Those branches that have been cut must be destroyed. The places of cuts must be processed. If the plum tree is old, then it is better to postpone pruning until spring. The fact is that the wounds on them do not heal so quickly, and in most cases gum begins to flow out of them, as a result of which the onset of frost can ruin a plant that could bear fruit for many more years.

When to prune cherries

Cherries should not be pruned every year. If there is a need for shaping or rejuvenating pruning, then this procedure should be carried out in the spring. In autumn, pruning can be carried out only for sanitary purposes. In the event that winters are mild and warm, then in such areas the plant can be cut in October. And in the northern regions, where there are frosty winters, autumn pruning must be done in September. You can start cutting the plant immediately after the end of leaf fall, but at the same time, if frosts should begin in the near future, then this procedure should be postponed until the spring.

Those seedlings that are only 1 year old are not pruned in autumn, the fact is that they are not able to recover quickly, and the onset of frost can destroy them. In older cherries, you need to cut out all the branches except for the 5 strongest, which should be directed to the sides. At the same time, they should grow no closer than 10 centimeters from each other. Sanitary pruning of adult cherries is carried out only if necessary, while cutting off dry, injured, as well as diseased branches. In autumn, all shoots should be cut out, because it makes the plant weaker, while winter time small rodents, as well as various pests, like to hide in it. In the case when the plant is own-rooted, its growth is quite suitable for planting, because it is able to retain all the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. In a grafted plant, shoots should not be used for planting, and it must be removed, as it can cause significant damage to cherries. Formative pruning of young cherries is done in the spring. At the same time, pruning of old plants is also postponed, which is carried out in order to rejuvenate them.

When to prune an apricot

Pruning of apricots is carried out in spring, summer and autumn. At the same time, in the spring, pruning should be thorough, it includes shaping, sanitary and, if necessary, rejuvenating. In the summer, the plant is pruned only when there is a danger that the branches will break off due to a large number fruits. In autumn, pruning is carried out for sanitary purposes, it is preparing the plant for the coming winter.

Before you start cutting the branches, you need to think about what kind of shape the crown of the plant should have - untiered or tiered. In the event that there is not a lot of space in the garden, then it is recommended to give the apricot crown cupped shape, for this, the branches should be shortened by about ½ part. In autumn, the apricot needs sanitary pruning, for this you need to remove injured, diseased, dry branches, and you also need to thin out the crown, for this you need to remove those branches and shoots that grow inward. But at the same time, it should be remembered that such a plant loves heat very much, therefore it is impossible to apply deep cuts. If, nevertheless, this happened, then the wound should be smeared blue vitriol, and then garden pitch to prevent the gum from flowing out.

When to prune a peach

Peach pruning can be done in summer, autumn and spring. In spring, the plant needs formative pruning, and those branches that have been damaged by frost should also be removed. At the same time, if necessary, rejuvenating pruning is performed on old peaches. In the summer, the plant is pruned if necessary. In autumn, the peach must be prepared for the coming winter.

In autumn, it is necessary to cut off all branches that are not needed, as well as those that have been damaged by pests or diseases. Cut branches must be destroyed, do not forget to smear the places of cuts on the plant oil paint or garden pitch.

When to prune cherries

Formative pruning should be done in the spring. In the fall, it is necessary to make sanitary, as well as obligatory anti-aging pruning (most experts advise). But there is also an opinion that in autumn pruning should be done only in extreme cases, to rid the plant of branches injured and affected by disease or pests. If a given plant cut very hard in the fall, this can slow down its fruiting. Which of the options for autumn pruning of cherries to choose, the gardener himself must decide. For example, in autumn, you can do a rejuvenating pruning, but in the event that something does not suit you in the state of the plant, then next year postpone this procedure until spring.

Experts advise the crown of the plant to give a conical shape, while the base should be wide. In this case, the plant will have enough light and heat, and the air circulation inside the crown will also improve. And if desired, the crown can be cupped or in the form of a tier. In autumn, when the leaf fall ends, it is necessary to remove all injured, dry and diseased branches and stems. For rejuvenation, it is necessary to cut out those branches that are 6–8 years old on the ring, while the places of the cuts must be smeared with oil paint or garden pitch.

It should be remembered that the main pruning of various fruit crops should be done in the spring, with the exception of apple and pear trees. At the same time, it should be above zero on the street, but you need to have time before the kidneys swell. The fact is that in the heat of the wound on these plants heal better and faster. In autumn, it is most often recommended to remove only unnecessary branches. This pruning principle is applicable not only to the plants described above, but also to sea buckthorn, cherry plum, mulberry, quince, irga, viburnum, etc.

Trimming techniques:

Cut on the kidney- this will help change the growth of the branch and direct it in the right direction. On a one-year-old stem, you need to find a bud that looks in the direction you need. Then a branch is cut near it at an angle of 45 degrees, so that the stump on the opposite side of the stem from the bud is not too long (the length of the spike is about 1.5–2 centimeters). The fact is that a longer stump most often dries up, and the kidney does not wake up in the spring.
cut on the ring- when removing an unnecessary branch, it is cut out entirely along the outer edge of the ring (a special influx of bark at the junction of the cut branch with the one that remains). This type of pruning will help make the side branch the main branch.

There are several various kinds pruning used for horticultural crops, namely: regulating, restorative, shaping, rejuvenating and sanitary.

Garden pitch is smeared on the places of cuts and wounds, while the layer should be about 0.3–0.5 centimeters thick. Currently, experts increasingly advise replacing this product with latex paint, which contains copper salts, or you can use "artificial bark" - this tool speeds up the recovery processes, and also protects the wound from excessive drying, as well as from the ingress of pathogenic microorganisms into it and water.

Record Autumn pruning of fruit trees first appeared Grower.

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Tree pruning is mandatory procedure necessary for better transfer of the cold winter period.

It provides:

Elimination of new shoots in need of nutrition. Unnecessary branches consume the crop's nutrient supply, depleting it and causing a decrease in the number of fruits during the next season.
Reduced chance of branch breakage during heavy snowfall in winter.
Saving time spent on the care and treatment of plants in the summer.
Receipt bountiful harvest with high-quality healthy and large fruits.

Circumcision Features

Pruning of fruit crops occurs in the fall, when the entire possible harvest for this year has been harvested. The basic rule of this procedure is to reduce the possibility of harm to the fruit tree.

Incorrect pruning can result in:

to a decrease in fruiting;
to improper crown formation.

In order for crop circumcision to be beneficial, you should:

pruning should be carried out only after the onset of frost, which reduces the likelihood of injury;
adjust the number of shoots, but you should not delete everything;
remove all dried and diseased branches, providing a path for the growth of new and healthy shoots in the next season;
before carrying out the procedure, familiarize yourself with the features of pruning on a particular crop.

The time when the movement of juice along the trunk and branches of the plant ends is considered optimal for pruning fruit crops. When holding an event in the summer, you can doom it to diseases, thereby reducing its fruiting rate for more than one season.

The timing of pruning fruit trees varies depending on the region of the country. For example, in the southern regions of the country, they can be cut in the fall, and in the northern regions, such an event is not recommended. This is due to the fact that freezing of the bark of the culture can occur at the site of the cut in winter. young tree up to the age of two, after autumn pruning, it can completely die.

Tree pruning schemes in autumn

It should be remembered that each culture has its own individual features of crown formation, which must be taken into account when cutting a tree and forming its crown.

At the same time, it should be borne in mind that any scheme for cutting branches is aimed at removing unnecessary branches, but in no way at destroying the main wood of the tree.

The pruning scheme depends on how old the tree is and how long ago this procedure was carried out.

For a neglected tree, the pruning plan is as follows:

The choice of a scheme for the future crown of a tree, for its formation over several years.
Pruning of excess branches starting from the middle of the tree, from the most dry and damaged branches.
Young shoots in a small amount after the first pruning are recommended to be left

Pruning of hearth crops is carried out in two ways:

shortening in order to form the height and width of the plant;
thinning.

When thinning branches are removed, starting from the middle part of the crown at their base. This scheme allows you to increase the access of air and sunlight to the trunk and the remaining branches.

Shortening carried out for crops whose age does not exceed 2 years. In this case, both the central trunk and the side branches are pruned at the level of the kidney. This cutting scheme allows you to:

control the growth of branches and crown size;
promote the development of lateral branches;
increase productivity due to the appearance of new young branches.

Slicing types

When cutting a plant, it is important to cut it correctly without damaging the tissues of the stem part of the crop.

You should remember the main rule for making cuts- the main fabric of the tree, namely wood, cannot be damaged. If the procedure was carried out without unnecessary damage, then the cut on the tree will quickly drag on.

cutting live branches. In this case, the wood of the main tree trunk must not be touched. Initially, they find a pocket that forms under the place to which the branch is attached. The two main objectives of keeping the culture healthy are not to cut off the excess part of the pocket and not to touch the wood in the area of \u200b\u200bthe upper fold.
Cutting dry branches. In this case, the pocket and fold are quickly determined, after which an incision is made.

There are several types of cuts:

Dates

Correction of the state of culture depends on:

on the degree of its neglect;
from damage to its crown and branches by diseases;
from infection and the degree of damage by pests.

The timing of the restoration of the plant, depending on the prevailing various circumstances, is different:

If a fruit crop has not previously been cared for and has an outwardly neglected appearance, then it should take at least 5 years to restore it to a normal well-groomed and healthy appearance. It is impossible to bring it back to normal in one year due to the need to cut a large number of branches in this case, which can significantly reduce yields for several years.
When a crop is affected by pests or diseases, the affected branches are removed in one pruning. However, this procedure will reduce fruiting for many years. For this reason, in such situations, the feasibility of restoring a diseased tree should be assessed. In some cases, a new plant can grow faster than an old one can recover.

The frequency of pruning depends on the age of the plants:

On old trees, it is recommended to carry out circumcision (often rejuvenating) 1 time in 3 years.
Young crops should be pruned regularly in order to form the correct crown.

How to increase productivity?

Plant fertility is directly related to:

With the freedom of space. It is believed that the more branches - the less space for fruits. Therefore, you should regularly monitor the density of the branches with the help of their timely pruning.
With tree health. Various diseases crops contribute to disruption of the function of nutrient supply to the branches where the fruits should be located. The presence of pests can jeopardize already set fruits, which is guaranteed to prevent the owner of the crop from using them as food.

Additional measures

To additional measures increasing yields can be attributed to the fertilizer of the roots of trees. Fertilizers are of two types:

natural, such as manure and ash from burned dry twigs;
artificial manufactured at the manufacturing plant as a result of certain chemical transformations.

Important factors affecting the yield of a crop are:

influence of drafts;
wind protection;
exposure to sunlight;
watering regularity.

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