How to make a monolithic septic tank with your own hands. Do-it-yourself septic tank from concrete rings. Connecting the inlet pipeline

In private households, in the absence of a centralized sewage system, it is better to equip not an ordinary cesspool, but to make a septic tank for a house with soil after-treatment with your own hands. However, when building it, you should be extremely careful. Any violation of sanitary norms and rules can turn into a serious problem.

Principle of operation

Kinds

According to the filtration methods, all sewer tanks for private houses can be divided into:

1 Cumulative: conventional cesspools that require regular cleaning

2 With soil post-treatment: provide several overflow tanks interconnected by pipes; the waste entering them, under the influence of gravity, settles with sediment falling to the bottom, which is eventually processed by bacteria; the gas formed during the decomposition process is removed through special ventilation holes; settled water is poured through a pipe into filtration wells or fields

3 Deep cleaning stations: such installations are quite expensive and energy-dependent; economically viable only in cases where the height of groundwater is less than 0.4 m; cleaning in these cases is carried out using biofilters; in principle, such stations can also be used for complete 100% sewage treatment

To avoid deformation, septic tanks should be made of high-strength concrete or concrete rings. It is also possible to build containers for collecting and cleaning waste from bricks, provided that they are reliably waterproofed.

Using plastic tanks they are installed in reinforced concrete boxes. You can also buy special containers equipped with stiffeners.

If an ordinary cesspool is a waste collector that has to be periodically removed, then it will be less common to pump out septic tanks with soil aftertreatment. Ideally, this can happen once every 10-20 years.

In practice, when building a septic tank of sufficient volume, it is cleaned every 3-5 years. Deep cleaning stations do not require this - all waste in them completely decomposes.

Before lowering the plastic septic tank into the pit, the container is filled with a small amount of water to equalize the pressure. Otherwise, when backfilling, the container may be deformed.

Calculation of the volume of a septic tank

According to SNiP, if there is a water supply, sewerage, bath or shower in the house, about 200 liters of water are required per person per day. Accordingly, for a family of 4 people per day, it will merge 800 liters or 0.8 cubic meters. m.

With a daily shower, installed dishwasher and washing machines a maximum of 150 liters of water is consumed. For four people, respectively, this figure will be 0.6 cubic meters. m.

The volume of receiving tanks should be 3 times the daily volume of wastewater. But it is better to use tanks with a small margin. That is, for a family of 4 people, build a septic tank with a volume of 3.0-4.0 cubic meters. m.

Selecting a location for installation

Do-it-yourself construction of a septic tank for a house and a summer residence near housing and reservoirs is strictly prohibited. According to SNiP, you have the right to install it 1 m from outbuildings and 5-7 m from residential buildings.

Do not forget that, although less often than a regular pit, the septic tank will still have to be pumped out periodically. Therefore, it is necessary for him to choose a place that is most convenient for the access of a sewage truck.

Installation step by step

Let us describe in detail the process of manufacturing a septic tank for a house from concrete rings. Number of chamber sections of great importance does not have - only the volume of the septic tank and the correct location of the drains are important.

Pit preparation

Each tank will require a separate pit.

They can be arranged in one line or arranged in the form of a triangle:

1 Concrete tanks must be installed above the level of groundwater passage.. At the same time, drain pipes should be located deeper than the freezing point (this indicator is different for different regions of Russia). In the Moscow region, this figure is 1.4 m. If they are located horizontally above the specified level, additional insulation is required.

2 Work should begin in the hot season so that groundwater drops to its lowest point.. Otherwise, the installed containers may simply float up.

3 For ease of installation, make the width of the pit slightly larger than the dimensions of the container. For a concrete ring 1 m wide, a margin of 20-30 cm is required.

4 To avoid soil pressure on the container, a layer of gravel is poured into the bottom of the pit. In the absence of such a cushion, the reservoir may be deformed or displaced.

Pipeline laying

1 For the sewer pipeline, corrugated polyethylene products are used that have sufficient resistance to deformation and are able to withstand significant temperature changes. Please note that such pipes are orange and marked SN 8. They are more rigid and consist of several layers. Gray or white SN 4 pipes are not suitable for indoor installation - they can simply be crushed under the weight of the soil.

2 Pipes must be laid in concrete trays backfilling the trench with sand.

3 For free runoff of waste in the tank, the pipes are laid at an angle. With their diameter of 110 mm, it should be 2 cm per meter. With a diameter of 160 mm for each meter, the slope will be 1.5 cm. A larger angle of inclination is not required, otherwise the pipes will become clogged.

4 Pipes going into receiving tanks must have tee fittings at the end, open at the top and bottom. In this case, the liquid flow will be redirected correctly, and the debris and fatty film floating on top will not overflow. The lower outlet is intended for sampling the lower layers of the liquid, and the upper one is for cleaning.

5 For the correct functioning of the system, the overflow pipes must be located below the layer of fatty film, but not higher than the deposited layer, which collects on the bottom in the form of sludge and is subject to periodic pumping.

6 When laying, try to avoid turns. If you can’t do without them, be sure to install inspection wells for cleaning in such places.

Installation of concrete rings

1 The most common do-it-yourself septic tanks for private houses are containers made of concrete rings. You can also use structures from monolithic concrete, however, it will take much more time to erect them, install formwork and pour concrete, and the cost will not be much cheaper.

2 Concrete rings are lowered into the prepared pit using machinery or manually.

3 The bottom ring of the first settling tank must have a concrete bottom. If it is not possible to purchase such a design, you can concrete the bottom of the pit itself, and when installing the ring, carefully seal the junction.

4 For a filter well (more about it below), you will need to purchase rings with a perforation of 30-50 mm. With good filtration capacity of the soil, a conventional non-perforated ring without a bottom can also be used.

5 In the upper part of the septic tank, rings are installed, equipped with holes for an inspection hatch.

6 To protect the rings from displacement, they are fastened together with metal plates.

7 In order to prevent wastewater from entering the ground, when laying concrete rings, their joints are carefully sealed with bitumen or modern sealants, for example, a bastion.

8 To ensure oxygen deficiency (anaerobic bacteria can only work under such conditions), hydraulic seals and blockers are installed at the inlet and outlet of the second chamber. For the operation of such bacteria, the presence of a temperature of 10-35С is also required, therefore, septic tanks installed above the level of soil freezing additionally insulate them

9 After connecting the pipeline, the container is filled with expanded clay or sand. This will allow you to better regulate the temperature inside the treatment system.

10 Adequate ventilation must be provided to remove the explosive methane gas generated during the processing of waste by bacteria. For this, risers are used, which are located 70 cm from the soil surface. So that smells do not spread throughout the site, it is better to raise them above the roof of the building to a height of up to 0.3 m. You should not make a pipe that is too high, otherwise it will freeze over.

Septic tank with seepage well

Such facilities are allowed to be used with a volume of wastewater up to 1 cubic meter. m per day. The depth of the filtration well is calculated so that its bottom is 1 m above groundwater.

The size of such a container is calculated based on the average daily amount of effluents. For sandy soil per 1 sq. m should account for 80 l / day. For slurries, this number is reduced to 40 l/day.

The bottom of the filtration wells at 1.2 m is covered with crushed stone or gravel. At the same time, stones of the largest fractions are laid below, and small stones are laid on top in a small layer. In this case, when silting, this layer can be easily removed, and the lower part of the well can simply be washed with water.

The hole for the pipe connecting the septic tank to the filtration well must be located at least 15 cm from the backfill level. To provide access to the well cover, a hatch with a diameter of 70 cm is equipped. To protect against freezing, it must have two covers, which are laid with heat-insulating material.

In the overlap of the well is displayed exhaust pipe, which should rise above the ground by 30 cm. Its diameter is from 10 cm. After installing concrete rings, the space between them and the ground must be covered with crushed stone and gravel.

A monolithic concrete septic tank is one of the most practical and reliable autonomous installations.

Built in compliance with all the rules and technological stages, the structure will serve the owners much longer.

Monolithic concrete septic tanks can be one-, two- or three-chamber.

Each variety has its own principle of operation.

single chamber

This type of septic tank acts as a storage tank. The effluents coming from the premises are settled and divided into fractions. Solids settle to the bottom, where they gradually decompose into anaerobic sludge and a mixture of methane and hydrogen sulfide. Gases through the duct riser go outside, and fats, residues detergents, light inorganic debris remain on the surface and form foam, which eventually turns into a flotation crust.

The water settled in the septic tank is discharged into the drainage system or directly to the aeration fields.

Double chamber

Here, wastewater flows from the sump to the second chamber, where additional waste treatment takes place before being released to the aeration fields. The design of the septic tank allows you to retain insoluble sediment in the first compartment, thereby preventing clogging drainage devices.

Three-chamber

In this design, and are additionally installed. Thanks to the compressor located in the second compartment, air is forced into the chamber and aerobic bacteria are connected to the waste processing process. The process of decomposition of organic matter becomes more intense and efficient. In order to save energy resources, the operation of the compressor is regulated by a timer that turns on the mechanism for several minutes after a certain period of time.

In the third chamber, a sump of purified water, a pump is installed for the forced removal of liquid into the drainage system.

A three-chamber septic tank is an energy-dependent installation. It is advisable to put it where interruptions in the supply of electricity are insignificant.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the owners of private houses, monolithic concrete septic tanks are deservedly popular. This is one of the most cost-effective options for arranging sewerage, which has excellent operational characteristics:

Significant mechanical strength;
More long term operation compared to plastic containers;
The seamless design prevents sewage from penetrating into the ground.
Thereby monolithic septic tank can be installed at and near water bodies;
Elevation and deformation of the structure during floods, "swelling" of the soil and other soil movements are excluded;
When constructing a structure, there is no need to involve special equipment;
Materials for manufacturing are affordable and sold at any hardware store;
Depending on the actual needs, it is possible to build a chamber of the volume that a specific number of residents needs. No need to adapt to standard dimensions or.

The disadvantages of a monolithic concrete septic tank include labor intensity and a long period of work. The process of complete hardening of concrete lasts 3-4 weeks.

Installation of a septic tank

Before installing a septic tank, it is necessary to determine its volume and location. Two-chamber structures are the most popular options, so it makes sense to talk about the stages of construction of just such a type of septic tank.

Calculation and design work

The size of the capacity of the septic tank depends on the volume of effluents coming from the premises. The first chamber is the largest compartment. It should be of such volume that a three-day flow of water is placed here. One person consumes about 200 liters of water per day, so for a family of five it is necessary to build a septic tank with a volume of the first chamber of at least 3 m3. Experts advise to additionally increase the volume of the septic tank by 20–30% so that the sewer does not overflow in case of unplanned water consumption.

It is necessary to build a sewer sump below the level of the house, at a distance of 4–6 m from it. From the point of water intake, the treatment plant should be removed by 30–50 m, depending on the degree of permeability of the soil (sandy loam, sand, clay, etc.).

Construction and installation works

The construction of a monolithic concrete septic tank takes place in several stages. The durability and strength of the entire structure depends on the quality of the work performed and the exact following of the recommendations of specialists.

Excavation

The initial stage is the preparation of the pit and trenches for laying. These works can be carry out with a shovel or with the involvement of earth-moving equipment. The walls and bottom of the pit must be carefully leveled and compacted. This will ensure uniform hardening of the concrete layers. The pit should have the shape of a parallelepiped. The length of one face is 2 m. The depth of the liquid level is at least 90 cm.

trenches for sewer pipes dig below the freezing level of the soil. If the pipeline is laid higher, it is necessary to provide for its insulation. One trench goes from the house to the sump, and the other is laid to the drainage system.

Work before pouring concrete

Before the actual pouring of the pit begins concrete mix, it is necessary to perform the complex preparatory work:

Waterproofing. The bottom and walls of the pit are covered with waterproofing material and the joints are glued. The edges of the waterproofing should protrude 30-40 cm over the side of the pit. Such measures will additionally protect the penetration of contaminants into the soil.

Bottom arrangement. Before filling the bottom concrete mortar do sand cushion, the height of which is 20–30 cm. To give the structure of a monolithic septic tank greater strength, reinforcement elements are installed in compacted sand.

As a material, either special rods are used, or hardware cylindrical shape, corners with a margin of safety in bending. Pour on the prepared bottom sand-cement mortar, mixed with plasticizer ( liquid glass).

Formwork construction. These works are necessary for pouring the walls of the excavation around the perimeter. The formwork is installed after the concrete screed has hardened (after 2-3 days). Usually they make a sliding structure - they assemble a frame up to the middle of the pit, and after the concrete has hardened in the first section, they move it higher. This method of pouring allows the solution to be more evenly placed between the walls of the formwork and the pit.

For casting, the partitions between the compartments make a double-sided formwork. At this stage of work, boards, plywood or pieces of chipboard will be required - materials for the manufacture of formwork panels; wooden bars- for fixing the sides of the structure to each other; cutting pipes - for preparing drainage holes. In the formwork, at a distance of 30 cm from each other, round holes of the required diameter are cut out, through which prepared pipe cuttings are driven into the ground 5 cm deep. After that, sewer pipes are passed through the formwork.

The joints of pipes with walls must be coated with waterproofing. The walls of the septic tank and its base should be at least 20 cm thick, and the partition should be about 15 cm.

Concrete works

Concrete mortar for pouring into the formwork is mixed from the following components:

Cement - 400 kg;
Sand - 600 kg;
Liquid superplasticizer - 5 l;
Water - 200 l;
Fine-grained gravel can be used as a filler.

To reduce the risk of developing monolithic slab voids, filling is done in layers: the height of the layers should not exceed half a meter. A special vibrator is used to compact the solution.

First, concrete is poured to the height of the first formwork level. After it hardens (in 2–3 days), the shields are removed and set to a new height, poured with concrete mixture and again await complete solidification.

If the formwork design did not provide for a wall between the chambers, the partition is made of brick, stone, concrete blocks.

It is very important to correctly determine the location for the overflow hole. It should be located below the input by half a meter.

Professionals advise to insert into the overflow hole sewer tee. This will prevent clogging of the pipe openings with flotation crust and heavy waste particles from entering the second chamber.

When small cracks or potholes appear on the walls, they are overwritten with ordinary concrete mortar. To improve the waterproofing properties of a monolithic septic tank inner surface the well must be coated with a waterproofing mixture.

Installation of the top floor

The roof of the septic tank is made after the concrete walls have hardened well (usually after two weeks) so that the structure can withstand the load from the ceiling. To begin with, metal corners are laid on the septic tank. They are laid on them flat slate or boards, cover them with roofing felt or other waterproofing material, reinforce and pour concrete.

When arranging the roof of a septic tank, it is necessary to provide holes for hatches. Their borders are made of low boards or metal corners placed on edge. The sides are covered with bricks and covers are installed, for example, from boards.

When installing the ceiling, it is necessary to install two ventilation pipes - a supply and an outlet. Pipes can rise 30–50 cm above the surface.

Installation cost

The price of a monolithic septic tank will consist of the cost of cement, sand, fittings, sewer pipes, and their delivery to the place of work. You can significantly reduce costs if you earthworks without the involvement of an excavator. Ordering a turnkey monolithic septic tank in a specialized organization will cost much more, but it will save you from laborious process.

sewer service

During operation, the septic tank requires periodic cleaning of sewer pipes, maintaining a normal number of microorganisms in the chambers, pumping out solid deposits.

The use of aggressive chemical substances(chlorine, acids), which have a detrimental effect on the colonies of bacteria involved in the processing of waste. AT winter period you can add a weak solution of common salt to the sewer to better development microorganisms. Silt is pumped out of the compartments of a two-chamber septic tank once every 3–5 years.

A sewerage device in a country house or in a private house always requires large material investments, even when choosing the most budget model treatment plant. The purchase of ready-made, fully equipped two-chamber structures will cost 50-60 thousand rubles without installation and connection. Agree, not everyone can afford this option. Is it possible to save on the construction of a sewer tank? We offer a traditional democratic solution - a concrete septic tank, completely made by hand.

A self-built concrete structure loses to factory models in terms of its functionality, since they provide everything in advance: from fully ready-to-work mechanisms to thoughtful dimensions. We will have to do all the calculations, preparation, pouring on our own, and only an experienced engineer savvy with special knowledge will not have questions and errors.

A single-chamber monolithic septic tank with a biofilter and the withdrawal of wastewater for post-treatment into a drainage tunnel

However, the "handicraft monolith" has a number of advantages:

there are no restrictions either in the volume of containers or in their number, and the nuances of the project can be changed “on the go”, during the construction process;
subject to the pouring technique and selection quality concrete the structure has a sufficient degree of wear resistance and strength;
due to the heavy material, additional "anchoring" and protection against flood movements are not required;
the monolithic design is more hermetic (compared to the analogue of the finished rings), since it does not have technical seams;
during the construction does not need to use heavy lifting equipment.

If you have already encountered the construction of foundations, paths, solid structures from cement mortar, there should not be any difficulties in assembling and pouring a home-made monolithic septic tank from concrete.

The simplest single-chamber option is a cesspool

Concrete structure project

A thoughtful, calculated, pre-prepared project is 50% of success. Many problems can be solved even at this stage, when choosing a good scheme or making an estimate. Let us dwell in more detail on the issues on which the efficiency of using a septic tank depends: the choice of volume, location and number of tanks.

Volume calculation

The volume of the chambers depends on the total amount of wastewater. There is an average value - 200 liters per person, respectively, for 4 people - 800 liters. This figure must be multiplied by 3 - the maximum number of days that the drains spend in the chamber is 2400 liters, that is, the volume of each working tank should not be less than 2.4 m³.

Using this simple formula, we calculate the volume required to build the planned facility. But some other factors need to be taken into account. For example, the frequency of visits to the dacha or permanent residence in a country house - these calculations are relevant for the second option. If you are using suburban area exclusively in the warm season or visit only on weekends, there is no need for a volumetric septic tank. It is enough to build a small one- or two-chamber septic tank with a filtration well.

Three-chamber treatment plant, designed for a family of 5-6 people

Optimal number of cameras

Maximum amount cameras in factory devices - 3, in home-made counterparts, you also need to focus on this figure. It is irrational to build the fourth reservoir. But three is also not always necessary. For example, in the case of country septic tank a small family, rarely getting out to the country, a single-chamber design is enough, in fact - cesspool. The accumulated masses are processed by anaerobic bacteria, then the liquid goes into the ground, and the precipitate, as it accumulates, is pumped out and taken out by a sewage machine.

Scheme of a two-chamber septic tank

Two-chamber septic tanks allow less frequent access to vacuum trucks. The drain liquid goes through two stages of purification - with the help of anaerobes and aerobes, it enters the soil already clarified. The second tank is often covered with rubble to increase the drainage effect. Post-treatment is carried out on the filtration field.

Three-chamber structures are real devices biological treatment. In the first chamber, the sewage masses are divided into fractions (the sediment falls to the bottom, the fat floats), in the second chamber they are cleaned with aerobes (the air is pumped with a compressor), in the third chamber they are finally clarified, and only after that they are sent to the drainage field.

For the construction of a concrete septic tank with your own hands, the preferred option is a two-chamber design. It effectively cleans drains and is easy to maintain.

Location selection

If you incorrectly determine the location of sewer facilities, you can violate sanitary norms. These are not bureaucratic requirements, but rules aimed at maintaining cleanliness environment, as well as taking care of the health of the owners of the site.

Ideally, you should determine the direction of movement of groundwater and choose a location that is "downstream". In practice, this is quite difficult to do, therefore, they adhere to the standards regarding the distance from the treatment plant to significant summer cottages.

The distance to an autonomous source of water supply (well, well) should be at least 50 m (for clay soils - from 30 m), to a residential building - 5 m or more, to a busy highway - also 5 m, dividing fence - 3 m. garden plantings it is better to move it away, up to 4-5 m, since the roots of trees can break the tightness over time underground facility.

The location of the monolithic septic tank relative to the house

The best decision – open area 5-7 m from the house, to which sewer pipes are carried out directly. After installation and backfilling, the area is fenced off or masked with country decor.

How to make a concrete septic tank with your own hands

Using the example of the construction of a two-chamber model, we will consider in detail the entire process of building a treatment plant. The principle of the device is preserved with a different number of tanks.

Let's start with earthworks - digging a pit right size. The depth and width of the pit is determined by the parameters future design, then add 0.3 m on each side for backfilling. In order to make it easier to maintain in the future (clean, control the occupancy), we will erect a structure in the form of a parallelepiped, respectively, the pit should be of the same configuration.

pit small sizes easy to dig by hand, with a shovel, but for more voluminous excavation, you will need construction machinery. Options include a team of hired workers or the use of a semi-mechanical winch. Keep in mind that dry sandy soil is much easier to remove than heavy, dense clay soil.

Construction of a pit for a septic tank

Together with digging a pit, we lay trenches for communications leading from the house. Do not forget about the slight slope with which the pipes should be located, and remember about the level of freezing. If the pipes run close to the surface, we provide additional thermal insulation. The pipeline must be prepared for the time of filling.

Formwork erection

First of all, you should equip the bottom of the future container. The base is of two types - open and closed. The first is necessary for filtering partially treated effluents, the second, on the contrary, turns the structure into a fully sealed tank for settling. In a two-chamber model, in the first compartment we make a concrete screed, in the second - gravel backfill. We pour the screed onto a sand and gravel pillow, while the gravel will be a filter layer, so we fill it up at the next stage, after the construction of the walls.

Installation of formwork from boards

When the screed dries up (after 2 days, but preferably after a week), we arrange a panel formwork. Usually used as supports chipboard sheets or shields from boards. Before this, we lay the walls of the pit with waterproofing material (membrane, geotextile) so that during operation, sewage does not penetrate into the aquifers.

we mount the formwork parts with the help of wooden bars and spacers;
we prepare holes in the walls for drainage using nozzles;
we bring the ends of the sewer pipes into the pit.

To divide a large tank into two separate chambers, it will be necessary to additionally build a double-sided formwork-partition. To keep it stronger and not deform under the weight of the fill, we install spacers on both sides.

We install metal reinforcement to strengthen the structure. Suitable trimmings of thick wire, iron bars, pipe sections. Next, you can begin to prepare the mixture for pouring.

Preparation and pouring of the solution

Quality concrete structure directly depends on the components selected in correct proportions. One of the options for preparing a suitable solution: for 2 parts of water, 4 parts of Portland cement and 6 parts of sand. To increase strength and elasticity, add superplasticizer (5 l liquid solution per 200 liters of water) or a cheaper analogue - small gravel.

The process of concreting in stages

We use only clean sieved river sand with a fraction from 1.2 mm to 3 mm, with the presence of clay inclusions not more than 5%. To check the saturation with clay, pour a small amount of sand with water and shake. How cloudier water, the more clay. The presence of clay makes the concrete greasy and crumbly, so muddy sand is not suitable.

Having prepared the mixture, we fill it - completely on the entire formwork or in parts, if we use the so-called "sliding" model. Experienced Builders it is recommended to pour the solution in layers so that there are no voids. The height of each layer is about 0.5 m. A vibrator is used to compact the mass.

When placing the batch in the partition between the two compartments, we do not forget about the arrangement of the overflow hole, with the help of which the settled sewer water will flow into the adjacent chamber. It is located 0.5 m below the inlet. After that, we pause until the solution finally hardens.

Floor installation

Complete solidification of the concrete bowl occurs in about two weeks. At the end, you need to check the surface for the presence of small cracks. When they are found, simply apply a little cement mortar on top and rub it like putty.

from above along the perimeter we fix metal corners;
we lay a shield from the boards, leaving a hole for the hatch (for a two-chamber model - so that the entrance is in both compartments);
the surface is reinforced and filled with mortar.

When the ceiling hardens, we equip the hatch cover - we sheathe the frame from the metal corner with boards or use brickwork. Do not forget about the installation of a ventilation pipe that provides air circulation in the tanks.

The final event is the backfilling of the structure. We strengthen the sides with a mixture of excavated soil, clay and cement, tamping the layers every 30-40 cm. We fill the surface with expanded clay, lay the soil on top. Only an inspection hatch with a cover protruding by 20-25 cm should remain on the surface.

Repair work

With time concrete floors and the walls will begin to wear out, and the pipes will become clogged, so you must be prepared for emergency repair work.

Consider the most common causes:

A blockage in the first chamber - a sump, which occurs due to a delay in the removal of solid sediment. To solve this problem, it is enough to call the vacuum trucks and completely empty the tank.
The destruction of concrete (the formation of large cracks) requires overhaul. We clean the septic tank, degrease the surface, cover it with a fresh solution. In case of more serious damage, we completely change the entire wall.
Destruction of the structure by acid corrosion. We pump out sewage, treat the surface with penetrating waterproofing. We cover with an acid protection agent, cover with a layer of concrete.

It is better to entrust the elimination of technical problems (exit from standing filtering and compressor equipment), complete cleaning and washing of cleaning devices to professionals.

Waste pumping with a cesspool machine

As you can see, it is not difficult to make a concrete septic tank on your own using diagrams and manuals. Subject to the norms and pouring technology, it will be strong enough and will last about 10 years. However, if you want the sewage system to be truly reliable and function for several decades, get a modern factory model or hire qualified workers.

Video: do-it-yourself monolithic three-chamber septic tank

For many homeowners, the device homemade septic tank is a necessity. Resting in a house that is not equipped with sewage is a dubious pleasure, and buying a ready-made sewage treatment plant does not fit into every budget. One of the construction options is a monolithic concrete septic tank. Such an installation is durable, reliable, airtight and it is quite possible to build it yourself, even without much experience in construction work.

One of the most inexpensive and practical options for constructing a sewer for a summer residence or a private house is a monolithic reinforced concrete septic tank. If you build a concrete septic tank with your own hands correctly, then it will be able to serve long years, because this is an extremely simple and at the same time reliable structure, even with high level ground water.

Thanks to monolithic construction, the septic tank is an environmentally friendly structure, because it is completely sealed and the penetration of contaminated water into the ground is excluded. The flooding of the septic tank is also excluded if the groundwater level rises.

Planning

Having decided to build a monolithic septic tank for a summer residence or a private house, it is necessary to start work with planning. It is necessary to calculate its volume and choose the right place for the construction.

How to determine the right volume?

The main indicator in calculating the volume of a septic tank is the daily water consumption in the house. Moreover, to perform calculations, it is necessary to use the flow rate at the maximum possible water consumption.

If a concrete septic tank is being built for a summer residence or a private house, then the water consumption indicator is used to calculate the volume of the first (receiving) chamber. The volume of subsequent chambers is determined depending on the volume of the first. The receiving chamber of the septic tank must be such that it can fit the amount of waste that is formed in the house in three days. The volume of the following chambers is determined according to the following principle:

If a two-chamber model is being built, then the first chamber should be 75% of the total volume;
When building a three-chamber septic tank, it is necessary that the first chamber occupies half of the total volume, and the second and third - 25% each, respectively.

Choice of construction site

It is equally important to choose the right places for the location of the septic tank:

It is forbidden to place the sump too close to the house, it must be at least 5 meters away from the foundation of the building;

But it is irrational to take the septic tank too far from the house, because then you will have to build too long a pipeline. And the longer the pipes, the greater the likelihood of blockage;

Advice! If it becomes necessary to build a long pipeline, then it will be necessary to provide for the installation of revision wells - at the places of turns, the height difference of the pipeline, straight sections every 15 meters.

If the relief of the site allows, then it is better to place the septic tank lower in level than the foundation of the house;

When choosing a construction site, the geological conditions on the site should also be taken into account. In principle, with a high level of groundwater, it is quite possible to build a septic tank from monolithic concrete, this installation is completely sealed, so the risk of flooding is minimal. However, in this case, difficulties will arise in the construction of filtration fields.

Advice! If it is necessary to build a septic tank at a high level of groundwater, it is possible to build a ground-based installation for post-treatment of water, disguising it as a hill.

Construction

Consider how to build treatment plants for a summer residence or a private house. During the construction process, a number of works will need to be performed:

Prepare a pit;
Build a formwork;
Pour concrete solution;
Perform waterproofing;
Build internal partitions;
Perform overlays.

If desired, you can equip a monolithic septic tank with artificial aeration. This will make the model volatile, but it will not have to build filtration fields, which is difficult to do with a high level of groundwater.

Pit preparation

The construction of a concrete septic tank begins with the implementation of land work. Fulfill them better in summer when the groundwater level drops. It is necessary to prepare a rectangular pit, the dimensions of which are determined by the pre-calculated volume of the septic tank.

Having finished digging the pit, you will need to carefully level the bottom, preparing it for pouring concrete. The walls of the pit should also be as even as possible. At the same stage of construction, trenches are being dug into which pipes will need to be laid.

Advice! To exclude the possibility of freezing of the liquid in the pipes, it is necessary either to lay them at a depth below the freezing level, or to make them insulated.

Formwork construction

To prevent flooding of the septic tank at a high level of groundwater, concrete septic tanks are sealed. To do this, the walls of the pit are covered with a waterproofing material, the coating is made so that the edges of the material protrude above the sides of the pit.

Next, the fittings are installed - metal rods or pipes. This is necessary to give the necessary structural strength. Now you need to figure out how to concrete the bottom of the septic tank. To do this, it is necessary to fill the bottom with a layer of sand 20 cm high.

The poured sand cushion is carefully compacted manual tamper and then filled with the prepared solution. After pouring, allow the solution to dry.

For mixing the solution, cement and sand are used in a ratio of 1 to 3; crushed stone of a fine fraction should be used as a filler. With manual mixing of the solution, it is prepared in small portions and immediately poured.

At the same time, it is important to ensure that voids do not form in the monolithic wall. Then you need to build a formwork for pouring walls. For the construction of formwork, you can use improvised materials - OSB sheets, inch boards, etc.

If there is not enough material, then you can build a sliding formwork, that is, first install it to about half the height of the walls of the septic tank. And after pouring and drying the concrete, move the formwork to complete the pouring of the remaining part of the walls. After pouring, give time for concrete to harden - at least two weeks. After the expiration of this period, the formwork can be removed.

The construction of partitions

Depending on the number of chambers in the septic tank, it is necessary to build one or two partitions. For their construction, a double-sided formwork is constructed and concrete is poured. It is important not to forget to timely install pipes in the right places to organize overflows.

Floor construction

Construction work top floor is done like this:

Metal corners are laid on the finished walls of a concrete septic tank;
Over the corners, a floor is laid from boards or flat slate;
When laying boards or slate, holes are left for installing a ventilation pipe and a cleaning hatch. The pipe should be installed immediately, and the hatch opening is limited to the boards installed on the edge;
The future slab is reinforced using metal rods or pipes;
After that, the solution is poured.

After the concrete has hardened, it is necessary to build an upper box to close the control hatch. To do this, a frame is constructed from the corners, the sides of the box are laid with bricks, and the top is closed with a board.

So, a concrete septic tank is a practical, reliable and environmentally friendly installation for the local sewerage of a summer house or a house. It is possible to build such a septic tank on your own without having a lot of building experience, even with a high level of groundwater on the site.

A concrete septic tank is a structure made of concrete rings that allows you to purify water in drains in a timely manner, at least to a state in which it will be safe to send it to the soil of the site, without fear for possible toxins and substances harmful to plants. One of the main goals is to reduce the number of calls for vacuum trucks.

The septic tank is a special recess, which is divided into 4 zones:

Segment of the primary accumulation of sewage waste. Sewer drains from the house are reduced to this compartment, the initial separation takes place. Heavy elements fall to the bottom as sediment, and light foam floats to the top, while a concentrated liquid remains in the middle.
Anaerobic decay segment. There is no access to oxygen in this zone, therefore anaerobic microorganisms live and multiply in this mass, which decompose fat, complex carbohydrates and various chemicals into simple nitrates and hydrogen sulfide gas, and the remainder is water and sludge.
Site of aerobic decay. Here, on the contrary, oxygen is present, and aerobic bacteria begin to work, which decompose complex substances that, during the oxidation reaction, settle to the bottom or float up.
Filtration and drainage area. After the previous zones have been passed, the water is already clean enough that it can be sent to the ground without harm to the environment. It included only simple substances that plants can recycle.

The water undergoes sufficient purification, and the silt that has precipitated at the bottom can be used as a fertilizer for the flora. To get it, we recommend using a drainage pump.

Based on the design, a monolithic septic tank represents one tank, but it is much more efficient to divide it into several. Therefore, 2-3 mines are built from concrete rings, which are connected into one system by pipes. The first compartment collects effluent, and here the primary division, anaerobic decomposition and partly the third phase takes place. Purified water accumulates and settles in the second tank, then passes through the filter layer into the ground.

Note! If the second well has a dead bottom without access to drainage system, then silt accumulates in it and water is infused.

Benefits of a concrete septic tank

A concrete septic tank has great advantage before plastic and iron models. So, let's look at them in more detail:

Mechanical strength. Concrete septic tanks can work for more than one or two decades. It is unaffected by corrosion and damage.
Tightness . This type The septic tank has no seams, which eliminates a variety of sewage leaks. This probability is close to zero.
Sustainability. They are more difficult to install than plastic ones, however, when the soil is heaving, it will never pop up.
Term of the work . Plastic ones last a lot less.
Ease after-sales service . They do not require special efforts. Types of buildings of concrete septic tanks

Choice necessary scheme depends on the purpose of operation and the amount of waste treatment required. There are such types:

Single chamber;
Two-chamber;
Three-chamber.

Let's take a closer look at each type.

Septic tank with one chamber

This is the simplest method for wastewater treatment. The camera works like a sump. Solid wastes settle to the bottom, where they are exposed to the work of anaerobic bioactivators and eventually turn into sludge. Light elements of the runoff, on the contrary, float to the top, where they eventually form a flotation film.

The water that has settled in the middle part of the well then flows into the filtration compartments for post-treatment. This system is well suited for giving.

Conclusion. The main disadvantage is the possible clogging of pipes in the filtration compartments. This can happen due to the ingress of solid matter.

Septic tank with two chambers

The difference from the previous one is the presence of an additional well, which separates the inner part, which prevents it from entering particulate matter. This monolithic concrete septic tank increases the life of the filters as they are protected from suspended matter.

To improve the quality of work, you can add a gravel filter to the second chamber system.

Three-chamber septic tank

The system of a monolithic septic tank has basically the following scheme of operation:

The first compartment is a settling chamber, where anaerobic bacteria recycle solid waste;
The second compartment is a chamber where aerobic-aeration treatment of the runoff takes place. There is a compressor that periodically supplies oxygen.
The third sector is the so-called pumping chamber. From here, the liquid enters the filtration compartment for post-treatment.

How to make a concrete septic tank with your own hands?

Many people think that making a concrete septic tank with their own hands is too expensive, so they choose more simple methods and that is their mistake. Firstly, the device will quickly pay for itself, and secondly, it does not have additional costs for electrics, cleaning and other work. In this article, we will talk about correct installation monolithic septic tank.

How to choose the right place?

It is very important to correctly determine where to put a concrete septic tank and not deviate from sanitation standards and take into account the geological features of the site. So we must:

From the foundation, it should be no closer than 5 m;
It is very irrational to place a septic tank far from home, as there will be difficulties with the pipeline. The optimal distance is 15-20 m.

Advice! In the event that the septic tank is located more than 20 m from the house, it is recommended to install reserve wells for every 15 m of the pipeline and at each of its turns.

Preparatory stage

Basic rules and actions on initial stage settings:

The first thing we do is dig a well, 4 m long. In this case, we need 5 reinforced concrete rings with a diameter of 0.7 m. The reinforced concrete set has advantages in its ease and ease of installation.

Advice! Before purchasing rings, it is necessary to build a well and take measurements, otherwise they may not fit and disrupt the system.

The second thing we do is make calculations. We pay attention to the drinking well, if there is one on the site, because the septic tank must be installed at a great distance from it.
Next, you need to think about filtration, because it is very important that the water in the septic tank is clean enough. The cheapest options are crushed stone or gravel. There are also special filtration systems that can accommodate bacteria and algae.

Tip: The drain from the sink is different from the drain from the toilet, so we recommend installing two sleeves.

Installation of a concrete septic tank

The circuit is simple, so it should not cause problems with its installation.

We perform this sequence of actions:

First, we tear out the pit;
In the event that this septic tank provides for filtration, then we concrete the bottom;

Tip: To date, you can purchase a ring with a bottom, then you do not need to concrete.

Gradually install the rings. The first ring is tightly sealed at the seams with cement mortar. Fill the circle with gravel.
We prepare holes for drains. You can make your own or buy ready-made rings. It is also worth thinking about pipes, they should be made at an angle of 2 cm, and the main pipe from the house should be laid no higher than 0.5 m.
Also, a special cover is provided on top of the well, you can use a stove. It depends on your finances.

It is necessary to use concrete B15 and higher for construction. An acceptable ratio of all components used per 1 meter of cubic solution: 600 kg of sand, 400 kg of cement, 200 l of water, 5 l of super plasticizer C3, and 1200 kg of crushed stone.
Before you start concreting the bottom, you need to make a sand cushion at the bottom of the well. The sandy layer should be 20 cm. The base of the well is reinforced with a mesh, which has a rod diameter of 10 mm, and a cell size of 20 by 20 cm.
The lowest thickness of the concrete layer, which can be 3 cm. After pouring the bottom, walls can only be built after 2 weeks.
The minimum width of the walls is 20 cm, and the partitions in multi-chamber septic tanks are from 15 cm;
The walls of a rectangular septic tank must also be reinforced, like the bottom. This significantly increases stability and strength.
For greater density of concrete, it is recommended to use manual vibrators;
Assemble formwork from edged boards;
It is desirable to fill the walls in one go.

The last stage - pouring concrete cover

We withstand two weeks after the walls have been poured, and remove the formwork to inspect for defects. We fix them when we find them.
We reinforce the overlap as well as the bottom. Only in this case we use reinforcement with a rod diameter of 12 mm. The concrete layer should be 3 cm.
Let everything dry for 2 weeks before putting the lid back on. In order for the concrete to dry equally in all places, we cover everything with a film.

Conclusion: as you can see, building a septic tank on your own is not so difficult, if you use earthmoving and other equipment, then the work will be even easier. However, this is a long process and you need to have patience.

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