How to glue wood to plastic. How can I glue a plastic corner: types of glue, installation technique. Technology for fastening plastic panels

Often in everyday life or in the manufacture of furniture, we have to glue various materials together. In the carpentry and furniture business, the skills of the master in this type of work play a big role.

The quality of bonding depends primarily on the pre-treatment of the surfaces to be bonded. The surfaces to be glued are thoroughly cleaned of dirt, grease, residues of old glue or paint, the surface must be dry and clean. Materials with a mirror-smooth surface do not adhere well to each other, so clean them with a knife, sandpaper or a file.

When gluing metal, porcelain, glass stone and some other parts, you must first degrease them by washing them with warm soapy water and then rinsing. You can also degrease the surface by wiping them with a swab dipped in a solution ammonia gasoline, acetone, baking soda solution.

When gluing various materials you need to follow a few rules: apply glue to the surface only in a thin layer, but so that there are no missing places. The glue must be free of any impurities (sawdust, dust, and so on) and of a homogeneous consistency, that is, it must not contain lumps. thick layer thick glue does not contribute to a more durable bonding. Some types of adhesives, according to the instructions, should be heated before use. We would advise you not only to heat the glue itself, but also to heat the materials to be glued. Then the bonding strength will increase.

As a rule, the parts to be glued are dried in heat not lower than 18 °C. The parts should be pressed tightly against each other with a press, oppression or vice.

When gluing wood, it is recommended to heat the surfaces to be glued. It is desirable that the humidity of the parts to be glued be the same, but, in any case, does not exceed 10-12%. Dry wood we would recommend you glue with animal and synthetic adhesives. Animal glues include bone and casein. We note right away that the preparation of bone glue for work requires quite a lot of time, but this disadvantage is more than offset by its advantages. It is beneficial to use when a large amount of work is being done. The joints glued with this glue are very strong, which distinguishes it favorably from others, even expensive ones, such as BF-2. The glued parts can withstand a load of up to 60 kg per 1 sq. cm, which is several times higher than that of other adhesives. And finally, dry wood glue tiles can be stored for an unlimited time, they practically do not deteriorate.

Wood glue should be prepared in a special glue pot. The glue cooker consists of two tin vessels, one of which (wider) is filled with water, and glue is poured into the second (smaller) and placed in the first. Glue cooker can be successfully replaced with ordinary tin cans, one of which is larger than the other. Such a device water bath) does not allow the glue to burn and can keep heat for a long time. To weld bone glue, first break the dry glue into small pieces and fill it with water. Let the glue swell for 10-12 hours, and then set to boil. To prepare liquid glue for 4 weight parts of dry glue, take 3-4 parts of water. The glue should be heated, stirring, so that the whole mass is obtained without clots and grains. Do not bring the adhesive to a boil, as this may reduce its tack and durability. Determine the readiness of the glue by dipping a stick in it.

The glue is ready if it flows slowly from the stick, in a thick, even stream. If the glue is too thick during cooking, you can dilute it hot water. When working, hot glue is used, if it has cooled slightly, it can be heated in a water bath. Don't brew right away. a large number of glue. Brew as much as you need to do the job; reheating already hardened glue worsens its properties. When preparing bone glue, you can also give it refractory properties. To do this, dissolve 100 g of glue in 200 g of water and boil it in a glue pot until a thick composition is obtained, and then add 40 g of drying oil to it and boil it again. An increase in the adhesiveness of the composition can be achieved by adding zinc or lead white to the glue at the rate of 25:2.

When preparing casein glue, take 300-400 g of water room temperature and pour 100 g of glue powder into it. Glue powder should be poured into water gradually, stirring constantly until a homogeneous creamy mass is formed. Ready mix at first it will be thick, and it is set aside for a while to liquefy. There is no need to add water to the mixture. The finished glue should flow off the stick in a continuous stream, leaving a thin, shiny film on it. Remember that casein glue is not heated, because at temperatures above 40 ° C, casein coagulates and loses its adhesive properties. You can prepare glue powder at home, provided necessary components. The glue contains 7 weight parts of dry casein powder and 1 weight part of borax (sodium boric acid).

To prepare glue from such a powder, you need 8 parts by weight of water. Pour casein cold water in a ratio of 1:1 and soak for 3 hours. Dissolve the borax in hot water and pour the swollen casein with the resulting solution. Stir continuously until you get a fairly thick homogeneous mass. Parts glued with casein glue are kept under pressure for 4 hours, but the glue dries completely only after 12 hours. Big Advantage casein glue in that they can glue wood high humidity. Wood can also be glued with other adhesives such as synthetic wood glue, various resin adhesives and some other uses.

Sometimes it is required to stick plastic, leather, leatherette, decorative plywood, fabric or synthetic film on a wooden surface. Plywood can be firmly glued to wood with casein or synthetic wood glue. You can also glue plywood and tile wood glue, but it forms noticeable seam dark color. Do not apply a layer of glue directly to thin plywood as it may shrink. It is better to cover the surface of the wood with a layer of glue, and then put a plywood sheet on it and press it firmly on top with a yoke. The pressure should be about 8 kg and should lie under pressure for about 7-8 hours.

To glue plastic, use rubber-based adhesives. These can be adhesives such as 88N, Zh-3, KR-1, Elastosila-2. Before gluing, it is necessary to carefully treat the surface of wood or plastic.

Clean the wood from dust, and sand the back of the plastic until the plastic becomes slightly rough. Be especially careful with corners and edges. Then wipe the treated plastic surface with a swab dipped in gasoline to degrease it. Apply glue in a thin layer on both surfaces to be glued and connect them. Pressing the plastic firmly against the wood, run your hands from the middle to the edges to squeeze out all the air from under the plastic, and then put something heavy on the plastic so that the oppression is evenly distributed over the entire glued surface to be at least 4-5 kg ​​per 1 sq. . see Oppression leave for half an hour. Such gluings finally harden within a day.

For sticking to wooden base fabrics, leather, leather substitutes, use glues: "Oak", "Unicum", BF-6, "Polyvinyl acetate".

Also at home, with the necessary components, you can prepare a high-quality adhesive composition. For this you need 400 g wheat flour, 30 g of rosin, 15 g of aluminum alum and 100 g of water. Mix the dry ingredients, fill with water and put on low heat, or even better, use a glue cooker. In the process of preparing the glue, do not forget to stir it periodically so that lumps do not form. As soon as the glue begins to thicken it is ready. Make sure that the adhesive composition is homogeneous. This glue is used only when hot. Leathers and leatherettes (without a fabric base), degrease synthetic films with gasoline with acetone. Fabrics do not need pre-treatment before gluing. Cover both surfaces with glue, with yourself and iron with a warm iron through a wet cloth until it dries.

It is better not to glue fabrics and synthetic films with BF-6 and Polyvinyl acetate glues, since BF-6 glue can shine through the front surface and stain the fabrics yellowish. Glue "Polyvinyl acetate" collapses under the influence of water.

It is best to glue metal parts to wood using rubber adhesives, such as Zh-3, KR-1, 88-N, 88-NP, Pateks, Elastosila-2. If you need to stick to wooden surface small metal objects (hooks, shelves), we would not recommend using the first three brands of adhesives mentioned. These adhesives form the so-called "creeping seams", that is, under the action of loads metal object will slide off the wooden surface. Before gluing, file the metal surface with a file to make it rough, and then degrease with gasoline or acetone. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to both surfaces to be bonded, clamp the parts in a vise and leave for a few minutes. Finally, the glue will dry in 10-12 hours.

For gluing smooth surfaces, use the same adhesives - Elastosila-2 glue.

Apply a thin layer of glue to the surfaces previously degreased with acetone and leave it for one hour. After that, wipe the surfaces with a swab dipped in acetone, and connect them. Clamp the glued parts for 4-5 hours in a vise. Finally, the glue will harden in 10-12 hours.

Glass is most often glued together with such adhesives as "Polyvinyl acetate", "Mars", "Supercement", BF-2, "Pateks", "Unicum". These adhesives form almost colorless seams and are not destroyed by moisture. Before gluing, degrease the glass with acetone, apply a thin layer of glue to the surfaces to be glued and let it dry a little for 10 minutes. Apply the second layer and after 2-3 minutes connect the parts to be glued. Details within 20-30 minutes should be tightly pressed against each other. The glue completely hardens only after a day.

To glue glass and metal together, take Adhesive Sealant, Elastosila-2, Unicum. Degrease both surfaces, grease with glue and clamp the parts in a clamp for 30 minutes. The glue will finally harden and become waterproof after three days.

You can glue glass to a tree, as well as stick fabric or cardboard on it with PVA, PVA-A, "Polyvinyl acetate" adhesives. Degrease the glass with acetone, grease the surfaces with glue and put the parts under the press for an hour. The glue will dry in a day.

At home, glue BF-2 or "Epoxy" is used for bonding metals. Clean surfaces from dust, dirt, rust, sandpaper. Rinse treated surfaces clean water and dry well. Degrease surfaces with gasoline or acetone. Apply glue on the surface in a thin layer and leave it for an hour. Then place the blanks smeared with glue in an oven heated to 50-60 ° C and dry for 10-15 minutes. Apply a second layer of glue to the metal and, as soon as it starts to dry (stops sticking to your fingers), connect the parts to each other. It is better if you clamp the parts in a vise and dry in the oven at a temperature of 130-150 ° C for 1-2 hours. When cold drying
completely hardens only after 2-3 days.

Epoxy glue is indispensable in some cases. It consists of two components resin and hardener.

When using it, work with gloves, as the hardener is poisonous; if the hardener gets on your hands, remove it with a swab dipped in acetone, and then wash your hands running water. Before mixing the resin and hardener, it is advisable to heat the resin in a bowl of hot water, but not higher than 30°C. Mix warm resin with a hardener in the ratio indicated in the instructions, and use the prepared glue as you would others.

Also read in this section:

Useful repair tips
Tips for housewives on cleaning the apartment, cleaning carpets, caring for furniture. What cleaning products to use. And also how to quickly eliminate blockages in the kitchen or restore chipped enamel in the bathroom. How to repair a rubber boot.

Warming
All about how to insulate doors, walls, windows, floors, ceilings or ceilings. Here is how to make the attic warm, what materials to use. All about the methods and technologies of warming houses, cottages, basements. You will be able to calculate the consumption of material.

Materials for insulation
How to choose the right materials for thermal insulation works in what proportions to cook cement mortar for walls, how to insulate Vacation home. Recommendations will help you choose materials that have fire-resistant and low heat-conducting properties.

Glue types. What kind of glue to stick

Dear buyers!

We have been selling adhesives since 1992. Whether you need adhesives for your home or for sale in a store, we can offer a huge selection of the most different adhesives and in various packaging.

There are many types of adhesives. How to deal with them? What kind of glue, what and how can be glued? And which glue is right for you?

We hope that this article will help you clarify these issues.

Adhesives in tubes

Adhesives in tubes that you can buy on our website can be divided into 5 large categories:

1. Polyurethane adhesives

2. Polychloroprene adhesives

3. Rubber adhesives

4. Super glues, or glues based on cyanoacrylate

5. Epoxy adhesives

1. Polyurethane adhesives - These are adhesives based on polyurethane rubber with various additives.

This is universal adhesives, which have excellent adhesion to a very wide range of materials, including: rubber, leather, fabrics, foam rubber, wood, MDF, cork, paper, cardboard, porcelain, ceramics, glass, PVC, polyurethane, plexiglass.

Not suitable for styrofoam, polyethylene and polypropylene. Not suitable for gluing dishes in contact with food.

Colour polyurethane adhesives- transparent.

Properties:

· transparent elastic adhesive seam

· fast setting

· strength, durability of the adhesive seam

· water, oil, petrol resistance;

heat resistance

· versatility, wide range of applications

· adhesive seam retains strength at low temperatures

· heating (thermoactivation) during gluing significantly enhances the strength of the adhesive seam.

"Specialist" – professional transparent polyurethane adhesive for especially critical fastenings. Bonds all types of natural and synthetic leather, fabric, felt, rubber, wood, plastic, polyurethane. Suitable for metal, wood, ceramics, cardboard, paper, foam rubber, most plastics in any combination (except polyethylene and polypropylene).

Furniture makers use it for high-quality bonding furniture edge. For greater strength, the adhesive seam is heated with a hair dryer.

"Desmocoll" (Kharkiv), "Top-Top”, “Skorokhod” - professional special shoe glue adhesives for the manufacture and repair of shoes. Also suitable for natural and faux leather, suede, nubuck, fur, polyurethane, hard and soft PVC, various rubbers and rubbers, fabrics.

"Cross" - also polyurethane special shoe glue with increased seam elasticity, suitable for repairing sneakers.

"Crystal Moment"- a well-known universal transparent glue. Popular with craft enthusiasts (scrapbooking, card making, flowers, etc.), architecture students, and designers. Available in two volumes - 30 ml and 125 ml.

"Moment Gel" . In addition to all the advantages of polyurethane transparent adhesive, it has distinctive feature- thick, does not spread. It is convenient to use on vertical and porous surfaces.

"The globe" – universal transparent polyurethane adhesivefor smooth surfaces. For fast and high-quality gluing of products made of metals, plastics, wood, leather goods, rubber, ceramics, glass in any combination.

"PVC Boat" – for the repair of PVC boats, various inflatable products, awnings, children's pools, inflatable toys, balls, etc.

Adhesive solution "Desmocoll" (Kyiv) is a universal transparent adhesive for gluing polymeric materials: polyurethane, PVC, TEP, as well as for natural and artificial leather, rubber and fabric.

Glue Professional MKKD Metal-Leather-Ceramic-Wood

It is intended for pasting among themselves and pasting on any surface of the majority of materials. It is used for shoe repair, incl. and soles, when laminating surfaces from most materials with polymers. Transparent, waterproof, durable.

Glue Professional Polyurethane for PVC fabric

Designed for the repair of boats made of PVC fabric, trampolines, awnings, products made of PVC fabric and film, operating in the open air, in sea and fresh water. Waterproof, heat resistant, sun resistant.

2. Polychloroprene adhesives based neoprene, or polychloroprene rubber (which is the same thing). These are universal adhesives for critical joints. They have good adhesion to almost all materials: metal, rubber, wood, veneer, MDF, stone, parquet, tile, ceramics, glass, and many others.

Colourpolychloroprene adhesives - tan.

By Areas of use Polychloroprene adhesives are divided into two groups:

2.1. for rigid gluing(hard adhesive seam);

2.2. for flexible bonding(flexible, elastic glue line).

2.1. Polychloroprene (neoprene) adhesives for hard glue line - these are adhesives with relatively short molecular chains, the adhesive seam of these adhesives is quite rigid and durable. Adhesives have good adhesion to metals, glass, wood, stone.

They are mainly used for fastening to hard surfaces, to metal (including painted), wood, concrete, brick, plastered surfaces) materials such as rubber, textiles, carpet, linoleum, decorative elements, skirting boards, platbands.

To improve the bonding strength, the adhesive seam can be thermally activated (heated).

Polychloroprene adhesives that you can buy on our website are "Boat", "Moment Classic universal", "88", "88+", "88 Moment extra strong", "Stealth", "Avto Niva", "317", "Neoprene", "Super Cement", "Super Monolith".

Glue "88"- one of the most famous adhesives of this group, was developed back in Soviet time Institute of Aviation Materials. "88" glue is waterproof. Water resistance is achieved due to the fact that the composition includes synthetic resin.

It is used for gluing such materials: metal, rubber, wood, veneer, stone, parquet, tile, mosaic, ceramics, glass. For fastening various types of coatings (including flexible ones) to almost any surface. They are used for lining the interiors of cars, buses, wagons, for the manufacture of seats. Very good for gluing synthetic upholstery materials to metal.

On our website you can buy several types of "88" glue different manufacturers. In terms of properties, they are almost the same:

"88 Extra strong moment" 30g "88+" 40g and 100g,

"88" 40g and 100g, "88" (green tube) 40g.

Glue "A boat" is one of the most widely used all-purpose neoprene adhesives, designed and developed for the repair rubber boats , rubber products (car and bicycle tubes, raincoats, tents made of rubberized fabric, etc.), as well as for gluing leather, plastic, wood, veneer, polymer-synthetic materials (except for polyethylene), glass, porcelain.

When more and more boats made of PVC fabric began to appear, requests began to be made to improve the glue formula "Boat", because the strength of the adhesive seam decreased from solar heating. Then the polyurethane adhesive "PVC Boat" was developed for boats and other products made of PVC fabric.

"Moment Classic universal"manufactured by Henkel- one of the most famous and popular polychloroprene adhesives. Used for bonding various combinations: wood, metal, leather, rubber, felt, fabrics, plastics, glass, ceramics. You can buy "Moment Classic" in packages of 30 g, 50 g and 100 g.

"Stealth" has all the advantages of "88" glue, but at the same time has increased adhesion to metals. It is recommended as a universal for critical joints and for bonding metal, glass with rubber.

"Auto Niva" (rubber-metal)- This special kind 88 adhesive, due to the composition of which an increased heat resistance is achieved. Special formula for cold bonding rubber and plastic products to metal and to each other. Suitable for gluing fabric, wood, leather, leather substitutes, ceramics, cellulosic materials (paper, cardboard) in any combination.

Glue Formula "317" Optimized for extremely strong water resistant adhesives.

Other general purpose rigid polychloroprene adhesives are "Neoprene", "Super Cement", "Super Monolith" .

Glue "Safari" fast setting. Water and oil resistant, especially durable.

Universal adhesive for gluing most low-absorbent and non-absorbent materials. Designed for gluing any combination of rubber, leather, fabrics, rubber, wood, metal, polymeric and synthetic materials, felt, decorative plastics, glass, facing tiles, ceramics and porcelain products. Used for shoe repair.

Glue "Formula-1" for cars (rubber-plastic-metal) extra strong heat-resistant

Special formula for cold bonding rubber and plastic products to metal and to each other. Suitable for gluing fabric, wood, leather, leather substitutes, ceramics, cellulosic materials (paper, cardboard) in any combination.

Adhesives series "Professional":

Clay Professional "Flash - quick setting » designed for gluing together and sticking to any surface of most materials. High strength In 5 minutes. Recommended for gluing metal, tin, foil; products from ceramics and porcelain; leather, rubber, fabrics, foam rubber, synthetic materials; wood, MDF, chipboard, veneer, laminating coatings.

Clay Professional Furniture-Wood- Veneer-Fabricrecommended for gluing together and sticking to any surface of wood, chipboard, fiberboard, MDF, veneer, laminating and cork flooring; fast and quality repair furniture; gluing decorative elements, leather, fabrics, foam rubber.

Glue Professional Automotive Plastic-Metal-Rubber P used as an adhesive for noise insulation, in the repair of bumpers, for car accessories. Recommended for fastening decorative, protective and noise-absorbing elements to the car body, incl. to painted surfaces; repair of plastic, glass, metal, rubber products; repair of seats, torpedoes, door cards and other interior elements; thread fixation.

Glue Professional Metal-Ceramic-Porcelain used for gluing ceramics, porcelain, metal, polymer, rubber and other materials that do not absorb glue, most plastics.

2.2. Polychloroprene (neoprene) adhesives for flexible, elastic adhesive seam with long molecular chains designed specifically for shoes ( "Nairit", "Shoe Nairit", "Shoemaker", "Leather").

"Nairit" is a special type of neoprene rubber with long molecular chains, specially developed back in Soviet times in Armenia*. This brand of rubber was given the name "Nairit". Now "nairite" refers to all adhesives made on the basis of nairite rubber, i.e. rubber with long molecular chains. When these molecules are connected, the seam remains flexible, which is very good in the manufacture and repair of shoes. If you take glue "88" - it has a very hard glue line. And in "Nairit" the seam is soft, elastic, flexible, it does not tear under loads, vibrations, it retains gluing. For shoes - perfect option! On our website you can buy a kind of glue "Nairit" - "Shoe Nairit".

* "Nairit" plant − one of the oldest chemical enterprises in Armenia. "Nairit", as a plant of synthetic rubbers "Glavkauchuk" named after. CM. Kirov, was established in 1936. The enterprise produced the demanded national economy chemical composition− calcium carbide. Since 1940, the plant has become a monopoly producer of chloroprene rubber. Until the end of the 80s, the plant occupied 10-12% of the world synthetic rubber market.

"Shoe marathon moment" – designed for gluing shoes and shoe materials made of rubber, thermoplastic elastomer, leather, leather substitutes, fabric, felt, cork, plastic in various combinations.

"Shoemaker" – special shoe glue based on nairite rubber. Designed to connect the upper parts of shoes made of natural and synthetic leather with rubber and leather soles, as well as to connect shoe elements made of artificial leather, plastic leather, textile materials. It is also used when gluing coverings, linings, gluing insoles, reinforcing elements of shoes.

"Leather" – glue of increased elasticity and heat resistance for highly absorbent materials. For the manufacture and repair of products made of genuine and artificial leather, shoe uppers, fabrics, felt, synthetic materials, for attaching unshaped soles to shoe uppers.

Glue "Professional" Shoes-Leather-Rubber used for repairing shoe uppers, natural and artificial leather, rubber, fabrics, as well as repairing inflatable boats made of rubberized fabric.

Glue "Sprinter" is a universal fast-setting elastic adhesive for repairing shoes, including soles, leather, suede, nubuck, fur, polyurethane, PVC, rubber, fabrics. Can be used to bond any combination of rubber, leather, textiles, wood, metal, glass, wall tiles, ceramics and porcelain.

3. rubber adhesive is a solution of synthetic rubber in gasoline. Previously, only natural natural rubber, extracted from the sap of the South American hevea tree, was used to make this glue, but now its synthetic counterparts are used.

Rubber adhesives that you can buy on our website - "Rubber" and "Latka"- used for gluing products that do not experience heavy loads.

"Rubber" glue- this is an inexpensive adhesive for non-critical joints. It is used for gluing rubber products that do not experience heavy loads. “Rubber” glue is very popular with tanners: the details of leather jackets and other products are first baited with rubber glue before stitching, and then stitched. It is elastic and can be easily torn. Residues of glue from the material are removed simply with gasoline.

Glue "Latka" for bicycle patches, it is used to “bait” the patches, which then still need to be vulcanized.

Also rubber adhesives are applied to pasting of products from a cardboard, paper, photos.

Gluing method these three groups are almost the same. Before gluing, almost any surface to be bonded must be sanded and degreased. First you need to apply glue, wait until the solvent has evaporated so that only the rubber layer remains, and then press the surfaces to be glued and hold for some time under load.

Mode of application:

Apply an even layer of glue to the cleaned and degreased surface, dry to complete disappearance stickiness.

For responsible gluing, it is recommended to apply a second layer of glue after 10-15 minutes. after the first, also dry. The strength of the joint will increase by 1.5–2 times if the 2nd layer is heated to t ° \u003d 50–60 ° C.

Press firmly for 30 seconds. The decisive factor is the force, not the duration of the pressure. The product can be used after 1 hour. Final strength is achieved after 24 hours.

For polychloroprene adhesives, it is recommended to apply as much pressure as possible to the parts to be bonded. This is due to the fact that these adhesives are based on short molecules, and the stronger the mechanical effect on the surface being glued, the better these molecules adhere to each other, i.e. better adhesion. There is also a recommendation - heat the seam, or thermally activate it. This is also done to improve the adhesion of the surfaces to be bonded.

In the composition of adhesiveswhich you can buy on our website, substances harmful to the body are not included, called precursors, which is confirmed by the certificates of adhesive manufacturers. At the request of wholesale buyers, we enclose a photocopy of these certificates in the product packaging.

4. Cyanoacrylate adhesives, or "super glues"

Cyanoacrylate is organic matter, the molecules of which have the ability to very quickly combine with each other (polymerize). Super glues, or cyanoacrylate glues, cure within 1-2 minutes and provide a very strong bond.

Cyanoacrylate polymerizes under the influence of moisture, which is in the air. Therefore, if you want the glue to harden faster and the air is very dry, it is recommended to breathe on the gluing site.

Also, cyanoacrylate-based adhesive polymerizes rapidly under pressure. If, for example, cyanoacrylate glue is dropped on any surface, then the drop will remain liquid for a long time.

General instructions for use cyanoacrylate adhesives:

1. The surfaces to be bonded must be dry and clean. If necessary, clean from paint, dust, degrease.

2. Apply glue to one of the surfaces to be glued.

3. Press the surfaces firmly and hold for 1-2 minutes.

Colourcyanoacrylate adhesives - transparent.

Super adhesives are suitable for bonding a wide variety of materials: metals, ceramics, porcelain, glass, precious stones, rubber, rubber, most plastics, elastomers, cardboard, paper, porous materials, PVC. Used for gluing any wooden materials. Suitable for MDF, chipboard, wood, plywood. They are used in the manufacture and repair of furniture.

By consistency super glues, which you will find on our website, can be divided into 2 groups:

Ordinary, liquid cyanoacrylate adhesives

"Super Moment", "Akfix 702", "Elephant",

"505", "Cyanopan E", "Cyanopan ME",

"Alteco 110", "Retainer 505"

· Super glues - " gel", "slow", thick cyanoacrylate adhesives. They do not spread, do not absorb as quickly as conventional super glues, they are convenient to apply on vertical, uneven, porous surfaces.

"Akfix 705", "Akfix 705 with activator",

"Super Moment Gel", "Alteco Gel", "Fixator Gel"

Special precautions must be taken when working with these adhesives. precautionary measures:

1. If in the process of working with glue your fingers accidentally stuck together - do not try to break them! Carefully and slowly separate them with a round object (such as a pen). After a while, the sebum itself will reject the remnants of the glue.

2. If the glue gets into your eyes, you need to immediately rinse them large quantity water and see a doctor. If glue gets inside, make sure that the airways are clear. Cyanoacrylate polymerizes (hardens) instantly in the mouth, making it nearly impossible to swallow. Saliva will gradually separate all the solid product.

4. Keep glue out of the reach of children!

5. Epoxy adhesives

On our website you can find two-component epoxy adhesives, creating a super-strong, hard surface, which, after hardening, does not shrink, does not deform. After hardening, it can be drilled, sharpened. Adhesives are waterproof, non-flammable.

Glue metal, plastic, rubber, wood, ceramics, glass, crystals, stones and jewelry (bijouterie).

Glue epoxy two-component "Alteko 5 min" transparent for glass, ceramics, porcelain, crystal, crystals, jewelry, bijouterie.

Glue epoxy two-component "Alteko 4 min" black for metal, plastic, rubber, wood, stone, ceramics, glass.

There are other types of epoxy :

· in bottles in sets with hardener: "Khimkontakt-Epoksi" 200 g, 100 g, 70 g.

· in iron cans 900 g and 3 kg with or without PEPA hardener.

· epoxy glue universal and for steel in syringes for easy mixing,

· cold welds (all of them are made on the basis of epoxy resin)

In addition to all the above adhesives, there are also other types of adhesives available:

Adhesives in cans

· PVA glue

· Glue "Dragon" universal polymer

Glue for patches

Wallpaper glue

Often, we need to glue broken or cracked plastic items, from the temples of eyeglasses to the bumper of a car. It may also be necessary to glue a hook in the bathroom or a holder for a garden sprayer. The essence of the gluing process is the dissolution of the surface layer of two workpieces and the formation of a plastic layer from this solution, common to both parts. After hardening, the parts form a single whole, or, as they say, "stick together tightly."

Determine the type of plastic

in order to reliably glue plastic, first of all, you need to find out what kind of plastic the object is made of. Knowing the plastic, you can choose the most suitable adhesive for it.

All manufacturers put recycling symbols on their plastic products - this is the well-known Recycling Triangle - a triangle with arrows on the sides, symbolizing reuse materials.

The triangle contains numbers from one to seven. Often the numbers are supplemented by an abbreviation. According to these designations, the type of plastic is determined.

What does the marking on plastic mean?

• PET polyethylene low pressure or polyethylene terephthalate. It is mainly used for packing or packaging food products. It is produced in the form of a film, bags or transparent containers for liquid and bulk goods, as well as drinks.
• HDPE compacted low pressure polyethylene. It is used for the production of shrink film and packaging bags.
• V (PVC) polyvinyl chloride is a non-food plastic used to make strong and durable items such as household buckets, metal frames plastic windows, linoleum.
• LDPE Low density polyethylene high pressure. It is used in the production of bottles for drinks and dairy products, packaging bags, toys, pipes for cold water.
• PP polypropylene. Plastic is chemically inactive, heat-resistant (up to 150 °C), is most widely used in the production of medical products, heat-resistant dishes and household utensils, toys, pipes and fittings for hot water, and much more.
• PS polystyrene. Also food plastic, disposable tableware, household utensils, cases are made from it. kitchen appliances. If it is foamed, it forms an excellent porous heat insulator - foam used in everyday life and in construction work.
• O Other (other) - materials that are not intended for recycling, for example, with inclusions of metal, paper or other substances). This also includes plastics that do not belong to one of the six groups.

PS - polystyrene

To reliably glue plastic, you need to carefully consider the markings on the product and select an adhesive designed for polymers of this group. There is another way to determine the type of plastic - a small piece of it must be set on fire. Each type burns with a characteristic smell and type of flame. For reliable application of this method at home, you need to gain considerable experience.

Glue marking

Glue tubes are also marked, it's a pity that the notation does not always coincide with the symbols in the triangle on plastic product. Most often, the following symbols can be seen on the tube:

• PC-polycarbonate (used to cover greenhouses and sheds).
• ABS is an acrylonitrile copolymer.
• PP polypropylene.
• PPMA organic glass general purpose.
• PE is a well-known polyethylene.
• PVC is another friend - vinyl, or polyvinyl chloride.
• PS - polystyrene.
• PA 66 - polyamide.
• PUR polyurethane.

If you are not an expert in organic chemistry, then most likely, further study of labeling at home will not be successful. It is better to read in the user manual, which must be attached to the tube, which plastics can be glued with it.

Types of adhesives

The variety of plastics used in everyday life corresponds to an equally wide variety of manufactured compositions and methods of their application.

How to glue plastic

To dissolve surface layer material, it is necessary to destroy the chemical bonds between molecules. For this, special substances are used - strong solvents. Each solvent is suitable for its own group of plastics, and may not even leave a trace on a material from another group. At the heart of each adhesive composition is such a solvent. In addition, the composition may include:

• a hardener that promotes its drying;
• filler - dissolved molecules of the substance for which the adhesive is intended.

One of the strongest solvents is dichloroethane. It is used to glue polystyrene and plexiglass.

Depending on the method of application, the funds are divided into several groups:

• liquid;
• contact;
• reactionary;
• hot melt adhesives.

Liquid

Liquids are widely used in everyday life, they are easily and simply used at home for gluing plastic with a porous structure. They are available both on the basis of an organic solvent and on water based. They are applied to surfaces that are pressed against each other for a time sufficient to evaporate the base. After that, the adhesive layer hardens, forming a connecting seam. PVA glue is a typical example; it can be used to glue not only linoleum, but also wood at home.

Contact

Gluing takes place in two stages:

• the surfaces to be glued are lubricated with a thin layer, which dissolves the surface layer of plastic, softening it and facilitating contact with another surface;
• after a few minutes, the parts are pressed against each other with force, the softened layers are mixed, the solvent evaporates and a seam is formed.

This is how Moment, BF-2 and others work. They can glue polystyrene and other plastics at home. They contain toxic substances, so you need to work in a well-ventilated area and avoid getting drops on the skin or mucous membranes.

reactionary

One-component reactive agents dissolve the bonded material very quickly and harden just as quickly. These are famous brands, like Sekunda, Superglue and their analogues. The seam is strong and rigid.

Two-component consist, respectively, of two components stored separately from each other:

• hardener;
• fixer.

The components are mixed immediately before use and applied to surfaces where the mixture hardens to form a joint. The basis is epoxy or polyester resins. The seam at home is very durable. characteristic feature is that the full hardening takes a long time, and the seam gradually increases both strength and brittleness.

Hot melt adhesives

This group includes substances that exhibit their properties when heated to 110-120 ° C. Requires a special glue gun with heating element. Differs in accuracy of drawing. In addition to plastic, they can glue wood, fabric, paper at home.

How to glue plastic tightly at home

After the type of plastic has been determined and the appropriate substance has been selected, one should:

• thoroughly degrease the surfaces to be bonded. To do this, use alcohol, a degreaser or soap solution(only laundry soap);
• to more reliably glue objects, you need to increase the wettability. To do this, treat the surfaces with a velvet file or thin sandpaper;
• mix two-component reactive substances only after completion of the preparation of parts;
• do not use brushes with natural bristles;
• apply enough adhesive so that when pressing the workpieces, the excess does not squeeze out beyond the gluing zone.

The parts should be pressed in such a way as to exclude their displacement in the plane of gluing relative to each other.

How to achieve maximum effect when gluing plastic parts

In order for gluing plastic at home to give the maximum effect, you should:

• accurately determine the material and select the appropriate adhesive for it;
• carefully follow the instructions for use;
• wait the set time for the seam to gain strength and do not try to use the product ahead of time;
• for outdoor work or for items used in conditions of high humidity, you need to choose a waterproof brand;
• despite the declared heat resistance of the adhesive, the parts themselves may not survive this temperature;
• if there is no marking on the product, then you can try to drop a drop of adhesive in an inconspicuous place and see if the material dissolves.

Epoxy glue gives one of the most strong connections and compatible with many types of plastics.

What affects the reliability of bonding

The reliability of the seam is affected by a number of conditions. All of them are important, and failure to follow one of them can lead to the fact that the glued at home will fall off, despite the observance of all the others. So:

1. Compliance of the material of the product and the adhesive composition.
2. Correspondence of the type of adhesive composition with the magnitude of the forces that the connection will experience. Equally important is the direction of these efforts. So, compounds that give rigid seams are not suitable for repairing, for example, shoes - after all, the sole will bend and twist during operation, despite the fact that the tensile force will be small. At the same time, this composition can successfully glue, say, a hook to glass, and hang tens of kilograms on it.
3. Compliance with the technology of application. Everything is important here - and how many seconds or minutes it is necessary to compress the surfaces, and how to degrease them, and how much to keep the parts pressed against each other. All this depends on the properties of a particular “plastic-glue” pair, is described in detail in the instructions and must be followed verbatim. A one-second deviation in dwell time or early use of the product may result in secondary failure.
4. The mechanical part of the process. It is important to thoroughly clean the surface of dust and roughen it. In addition, the direction of pressing the parts to each other must be perpendicular to the surfaces to be glued. It is impossible to allow mutual displacement of parts after pressing - this will also lead to failure.

Gluing plastic tightly is not so easy. Carefully followed by a home master simple rules will allow you to get strong and durable connections. The main thing is not to forget about safety precautions: do not inhale the vapors of the adhesive composition and prevent it from getting into food, on the skin or mucous membranes. In case of accidental swallowing, you should immediately consult a doctor, be sure to take the tube with you.

An important part of the finishing work in the room is the protection of the corner lines of the walls from possible damage. Even after a high-quality repair, wallpaper on the corners, as well as door and window slopes can quickly fall into disrepair. It is recommended to reinforce areas subject to wear with PVC corners. Consider what can be glued plastic corner and how to do it.

PVC corners give the repair a finished look

Plastic corners are finishing elements that can protect outside corners walls from damage. They also perform decorative role giving the interior integrity and completeness.

Among the many types of corners, PVC products are considered to be in demand. They are universal. They are separated:

• door, window, arched openings;
• window niches;
• places where the walls adjoin the ceiling;
• external and internal corners walls;
• gaps between the wall and the surface of the kitchen set.

PVC panels come in white, colored (with different shades and textures) and double-sided. The form is distinguished:

• standard option (equilateral corners on the corners of the walls);
• T-profile;
• L-shaped (arched).

Why do experts advise gluing plastic corners to wallpaper? Polyvinyl chloride corner profiles are distinguished by:

1. Durability. Products retain their properties for more than 25 years.
2. Durability. They have anti-corrosion properties. Resistant to cracking and abrasion. Unaffected by moisture and ultraviolet light.
3. Ease of installation. They are easy to cut with a knife or scissors.
4. Low price.
5. Unpretentiousness in care.
6. Light weight.

There are also negative points. PVC products lose color over time. If a fire occurs, they melt, releasing toxic substances. They should be protected from damage by sharp objects.

How to glue a plastic corner

So that the work done is not in vain, you need to choose an adhesive that is best suited for plastic corners. Available in construction stores wide selection adhesive formulations. Finishing corners and slopes is carried out using the following adhesives:

• Liquid Nails. The composition has a high degree strength. Taking advantage liquid nails, you can securely attach the PVC or Styrofoam corner to any surface, in particular to embossed wallpaper, wood or concrete. Glue differs in excellent adhesive properties, quickly seizes. If necessary, a composition of a certain color is selected. White plates are best glued with a colorless composition.

Liquid nails are often used when mounting corners.

• Polyurethane adhesive. Durable, elastic, tightly glues PVC and MDF. The instructions say that not every polyurethane-based adhesive is designed for PVC corner. A significant disadvantage is the pungent odor and high cost.
• Silicone sealant. Recommended for fixing profiles to wallpaper, plastic panels, as well as to ceramic tiles in the bathroom, in the kitchen. It is advisable to use acrylic sealant. True, when using silicone glue, adhesion weakening can be observed over time, especially in places where corners are most often touched. Therefore, if you are going to attach the plate to the tile on silicone, you should choose compounds with high adhesive performance.
• Liquid plastic. The purpose of the composition is to glue only PVC parts. It is good to work with it, for example, when finishing the joints of plastic windows. Such glue must be used carefully, since a special chemical reagent will be needed to remove the mixture that accidentally got on the wallpaper.

PVC profiles are self-adhesive. It is necessary to glue the plastic corner on the wallpaper after taking measurements. After that, the protective tape is removed from the product, the plastic is pressed against the outer corner.

Tools for the job

To fix the plastic, you need a glue gun. It allows you to accurately apply the composition used. You also need to stock up:

• hacksaw or scissors for metal;
• stationery knife;
• metal square;
• tape measure, pencil;
• masking tape;
• adhesive mixture.

You can get profiles of the desired size and shape using a miter box. However, if this tool is not there, it's okay.

How to glue a plastic corner

To glue plastic corners to wallpaper or slopes, you should consider the surface to which the plates will be attached. Corners can be glued to wallpaper in two ways:

1. directly to the wallpaper. Important: the relief of the wallpaper should be shallow, otherwise dust will accumulate in the resulting gaps.
2. With cutting strips and applying glue to the wall. To do this, you need to attach a plastic corner to the installation site, and then cut off the wallpaper on both sides with a knife.

In the presence of curved slopes, flexible PVC profiles are useful.

How to cut

Before gluing the corner, the required length is measured. Trimming at an angle of 45 degrees is carried out using a sharp knife-scalpel or hacksaw. Blanks are also made using a miter box.

How to glue

If you need to attach plastic corners to the wallpaper, first the area to be treated is freed from the finishing material. The width of the cut strips should be slightly less than the width of the profile. Next, we work like this:

• on the inside we apply the selected glue to the strips;
• we apply the PVC profile to the surface and press along the entire length with a napkin or dry rag;
• we fix the plastic with masking tape;
• After the adhesive has set, remove the adhesive tape.

Before gluing a PVC profile to windows or a doorway, it is necessary to examine the surface for irregularities. If there is no way to fix the defect, use flexible plastic panels.

When it is required to glue the corners between the wall and the bathtub, it is important that the surface of the bathtub rim that is adjacent to the wall is clean. You can use painter's tape to protect the tile from possible glue getting on it.

First, the side of the bath and the adjacent section of the wall are treated with an antiseptic and a degreaser. The next step is to fill the gaps. silicone sealant. The PVC corner is glued after a day or two.

How to glue the inner corner on the ceiling? During fixation of products, it is important to avoid the formation of cracks. If the adhesive has come out, it should be removed. After installing the PVC profile, a finishing putty is used.

When making preliminary markings, it is necessary to be as accurate as possible in order to prevent gaps between the joints. It is better to increase the length of the profile by 0.5-1 mm. Due to their elasticity, the panels will perfectly fit into place.

Before mounting the corners on the walls, the panels are cleaned of dirt. If the trimming of the panels turned out to be uneven, the gaps should not be filled with silicone. Gradually, areas with a defect will become covered with dust and become noticeable.

To attach the arched corner, you will need a building hair dryer. If after 2-3 warm-ups the profile could not be bent, further attempts should be stopped. Prolonged heating makes the material hard and brittle.

All photos from the article

If you have done or are yet to do any carpentry or carpentry, then, most likely, the question of how to glue a tree with a tree or with other materials is quite relevant for you. The construction market today is saturated with a variety of compositions from different manufacturers and with different characteristics.

We have to do right choice. Therefore, we suggest that you take a closer look at different adhesive compositions, as well as watch the video in this article, which will help you consolidate the material you read.

Adhesives

Note. If you are interested in what kind of glue to glue wood to wood or other heterogeneous materials, you should know that there are at least four types of compounds. These are glutinous, casein, synthetic and adhesives on synthetic resins.

Glutinous

Adhesives that belong to the type of glutinous include:

• mezdra - it is obtained from cartilage, tendons, pieces of tanned skin, mezdra and so on, that is, the subcutaneous layer in animals;
• bone - naturally, it is made from bones, where the first grade of products is called gelatin, and the second - carpentry glue;
• fish is the second grade of products and all waste is used for it, such as scales, heads, bones, skins and the like.

General specifications:

• glutinous compositions can go on sale in the form of dry tiles, or in galleys - this is a hardened jelly mass, which contains approximately 65% ​​water. The second option (gallert) is extremely capricious - due to the high water content, especially in the hot season, it quickly rots;
• if the tiles (whole or crushed) are sold in ordinary plastic bags(sealed), then the galley has to be packaged in barrels and put up for sale in this form;
• it should be borne in mind that all glutinous compounds absorb moisture very well, therefore, the instruction recommends preparing them for no more than 1-2 days of work and storing the solution in a cold place;
• glutin is responsible for the absorption of water - the more it is, the more intense the absorption. Bone glue absorbs moisture 3-7 times more than its total mass, and mezdrovy - 6-10 times, and full cycle swelling occurs within 12 to 24 hours, respectively;
• if in the question of how to glue the wood with glue, you settled on a glutinous composition, then you should consider that the tiles must be hard, transparent and brittle - this determines its quality.