If you started a major overhaul of the bathroom, or the plumbing is out of order, then you may need to replace the toilet. This process has a number of features that must be taken into account, and the approach to choosing a new toilet must also be correct.

Of course, you can call a plumber from the housing office, or turn to private craftsmen who will provide professional installation. But installing a toilet bowl with your own hands will not only save you money, but also allow you to understand the whole process, which means choosing the most suitable installation option.

In this article, we'll walk you through everything you need to repair your toilet to help you do it yourself.

The first thing to decide: which toilet to choose

Replacing a toilet bowl in its entirety is part of a comprehensive one, so it includes:

• selection of a new toilet bowl, taking into account the methods of fastening and draining;
• dismantling the old toilet;
• repair of the toilet room, including the replacement of pipes, screeds, cladding and other things;
• installation and connection of a new toilet bowl.

Buy new toilet follows in advance, and at the same time you need to consider some features that will help you make the right choice.

Floor toilet bowls are divided according to their design into several types. Their differences are based on the shape of the main nodes.

1. The shape of the outlet drain can be horizontal, vertical or oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees.
2. The toilet bowl can be visor, dish-shaped or funnel-shaped.
3. The models also differ in the type of cistern: it can be combined with the base of the toilet bowl or mounted on the wall, and at different heights.
4. The fixings of the toilet bowl to the floor are different. This can be a variant with two or four fixing points, or a design in which the toilet is installed on special corners attached to the floor.

Tip: choose a toilet based on the type of drain. If you are not going to change the sewer pipe, then take a model with the same type of drain as the old toilet. No adapters will provide a high-quality connection of a toilet bowl with a vertical and direct outlet.

The tank connection method will determine the types of further facing works in toilet room. For example, if you chose to mount to the wall, then you will need a prepared place and anchors for installation.

1. First of all, the water supply inside the drain tank is blocked, the water is drained from it and the underwater hose is unscrewed. After that, the tank fasteners are unscrewed. If they are rusted or covered lime deposits, it is necessary, holding the head of the bolt with a screwdriver, unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. Use kerosene or aerosol lubricant - these products greatly soften rust and lime deposits.
2. After the tank is removed, unscrew the fasteners that hold the toilet - dowels or nuts screwed onto the anchor.
3. Now you need to disconnect the drain from sewer pipe. If your house is still an old building, then most likely the drain will be fixed. In this case, you will need a hammer and chisel. Position the chisel across the paste and carefully prick the cement in two places. Rock the toilet with force so that the drain turns and loosens. Tilt the toilet without removing it so that the remaining water drains out of it.
4. After the dismantling of the toilet bowl is completed, close the hole in the sewer pipe with a wooden plug or a cloth stopper.

Dismantling the toilet does not require special care, because it is unlikely that you will reuse the product. Therefore, if the cement coating is too strong, you can beat off part of the toilet bowl with a sledgehammer to facilitate work, and then make a transverse hole in the pipe, insert metal rod as a lever to make it easier to loosen the drain.

For your information: if you have cast iron drain pipes installed in your apartment, it is better to immediately replace them with plastic ones. Exploitation PVC pipes much easier, both for the initial wiring and for connecting all drain points.

DIY toilet installation process

After you have dismantled old toilet or have completed all the finishing work, prepare the surface, level it and proceed with the installation of the toilet installation.

1. Attach a rigid pipe or corrugated pipe to the toilet drain for articulation with the sewer outlet pipe. The best option would be in which the toilet drain goes directly into the pipe outlet. Use a rubber seal with a border for this. Do not seal the drain transition to the sewer inlet with cement.
2. Prepare the water inlet. A flexible hose that is wound onto the inlet to the tank and the water supply tap is well suited for this. Pay particular attention to the diameter of the hose fittings at both ends.
3. After the connection is made, you can fix the toilet on the wall or floor. Below we will look at this process in more detail.
4. Assemble the toilet. On the base, previously fixed, install the tank. If your tank is suspended, fix it to the wall and run a pipe. Now you can check whether the settings of the tank are correct and the toilet is functional. Turn on cold water wait until the tank is full. While the water is being collected, you can adjust its level. You can find out more about this in the instructions for the tank.
5. The last step is to attach the toilet seat. There are holes on the top of the toilet bowl for mounting it, and the necessary parts are supplied in the kit.

Now we will consider in more detail the methods of attaching the toilet bowl, as well as the features of each of them.

How to properly install the toilet, taking into account any little things

Usually there are three options by which the toilet is attached to the floor:

• installation with anchors cast into the screed or dowel;
• fixing the toilet with screws on a wooden base, pre-mounted in the screed;
• installation on epoxy resin.

If you decide to change the toilet due to overhaul, then the most suitable option will anchor fastening or prepared wooden base. In this case, the anchors for attaching the toilet bowl are placed on the floor when forming the screed. You should install them so that they protrude 5-6 cm above the surface. The excess can then be cut off.

Pick up taffeta ( wooden board) according to the size of the base of the toilet. Over its entire surface, hammer nails in a checkerboard pattern so that they protrude on the other side. Now turn the taffeta over and place it where the toilet will be. Fill the screed with concrete along the top edge of the board, install the toilet and secure it carefully with screws.

For attaching the toilet to a tiled surface, there are also certain rules. Be sure to wear rubber gaskets under the nuts and dowels: they will not allow the toilet to crack when tightened and prevent rusty drips on ceramics. Use nickel-plated anchors and bolts, they are easy to unwind even after the service life has expired.

Tip: installing the toilet on to prevent damage to it appearance, use epoxy resin or dowels.

Under the dowels, you will need to make holes through the screed and tile into which the screws will be screwed. The holes should not be too deep so as not to touch the waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, pour some sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. Be sure to put on a screw rubber gasket. It is best to place the toilet on a cushion of sealant, and then press down with screws.

What other toilet installation options are there?

When installing a toilet, you can completely do without such details as anchors, dowels and screws. Epoxy resin will come to your rescue. The main thing is to prepare the base of the toilet bowl and the floor surface in accordance with all the rules. This option is optimal if the tank is mounted on the wall, since it is it that represents half the weight of the complete structure.

1. To get started, walk sandpaper or abrasive stone on the surface of the floor, so that subsequently the epoxy resin is well seized and held.
2. Apply the adhesive to the floor and base of the toilet in an even layer of a few millimeters. Install the structure, align it and wait for the resin to dry completely.

Recently, hanging toilets have become popular. They are installed on the wall, without any contact with the floor. For installation, you need to do metal frame and attach it to bearing wall, and fix the toilet directly on it if you plan to hide the pipes and the tank behind a plasterboard wall.

Installing a toilet is a responsible process that is best left to the professionals. However, this is not always possible, so knowing how to install this important item in the toilet room yourself will not be superfluous. At first glance, the procedure is optimally simple. You just need to connect the toilet to the pipes with water, sewage and securely fasten. And how this whole procedure actually looks like will be discussed below.

Process Features

Actually correct installation the toilet, of course, is a complicated matter. However, if you understand its technology, you can install a toilet bowl with high quality and save on plumbing services. At the same time, it will turn out to grow in their own eyes. Recently, the number of toilet models has increased significantly, if you wish, you can find one that will not seem difficult to install.

Together with them, in addition to traditional way installation, other methods of fastening appeared. For example, now the method when the tank is hidden in the wall has become especially popular. Wall-mounted toilet bowls have also become widespread, which are mounted directly on the wall, completely freeing the floor. Such models look very interesting, they are no more difficult to mount than models with floor mounts.

Also, the installation of the toilet bowl is affected by the type of attachment, flush, supply of the sewer pipe, its dimensions. Particular attention is paid to the evenness of the surface on which it is planned to install plumbing. That is why it is better to think over in advance the model of the toilet bowl and the type of room in which you will have to mount it yourself. This is especially true for toilets and bathrooms in new buildings. It is worth considering the size of the room so that the installation is easy and correct.

When installing toilets in apartments or houses where there is already a toilet, you should also consider dismantling the old product, as well as repairing it. Another point worth considering in advance is the availability of all necessary tools, including puncher, screwdrivers, dowels. When purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the bowl and tank before packing it. The product must be free of chips and cracks. They can cause leakage of a new product.

Particular attention should be paid to the internal cavities, as well as the release of the toilet bowl. It will not be superfluous to clarify what the complete set consists of. For example, when buying in a store, you should ask the seller if there is a seat in it, fasteners to the floor or wall. If something is missing, it is better to immediately purchase all the missing items. This will allow installation without any problems.

Types of structures

There are a lot of types of toilet bowls, as well as the parameters by which they are divided. This often leads to customer confusion. From all this variety, you need to choose one toilet bowl. At the same time, it is desirable that it fits perfectly into the toilet room.

By size, toilets are divided into:

• universal, the most widespread model;
• children, who small size very comfortable for children;
• for people with handicapped, have different designs.

According to the type of installation, toilet bowls are of two types.

• Floor, the fixation of which is carried out to the floor. This type is divided into corner and wall.
• Suspended. Such models are mounted on the wall with the help of special fasteners (installation). They are called wall-mounted or built-in.

An important point is the compatibility of the wall-mounted toilet with the installation. The dimensions of the installation should be selected based on its location. In addition, the installation allows you to install not only a toilet, but also a bidet.

Installations are:

• block, which are mounted only on a load-bearing wall;
• framed, which can be mounted anywhere.

By attaching the toilet to the sewer, several separate types are also distinguished.

with horizontal outlet

Such toilets are connected to the sewer only at an angle of 95 degrees. Such models are especially convenient when the sewer pipe passes through the wall. However, with the help corrugated pipe the toilet bowl can be equally easily attached to the floor. This type originally received its distribution in Europe, and not so long ago with us.

with vertical

These designs are the most common, behind this name are the most common toilets that are connected to the sewer socket in the floor. Most often, such models are found in stalinkas built in the middle of the twentieth century.

With oblique

Such toilets are attached to the sewer pipe at an angle of 45 degrees. These designs can be seen in all the houses that were built at the end of the last century.

Flushing the toilet is one of the highlights.

How it is installed cistern, designs of toilet bowls are divided into three types.

• Hinged, which is mounted on the wall.
• A cistern mounted on a toilet. This model can be called traditional and immediately recognizable. It is easy to install from above.
• A hidden cistern is built into the wall, thereby freeing up the room and making it even more attractive.

By location drain hole plumbing products are divided into two types.

With rear drain

In such models, water from the tank flows down the back wall of the bowl. The advantage of such a drain is that the flow of water is stronger, which means it cleans the bowl better. It is worth considering that the back wall will always be dirtier, and there will be more splashes on the front. It is necessary to clean the bowls of such toilet bowls exclusively using household chemicals.

With circular

Water enters the toilet bowl through several holes, so the entire surface is washed more evenly. Of course, in these models, purification back wall worse, but overall, less spatter.

The water supply to the tank is different ways and also affects the installation of the toilet. It comes in the bottom, side and rear.

By the way the water mirror is located, three types can be distinguished at once.

• Funnel-shaped, when the mirror of water is exactly in the middle of the bowl. This model has 1 significant drawback in the form of water splashes during its use.
• With a shelf, it is distinguished by the presence of a visor in front of a water mirror. This design leads to the spread of unpleasant odors.
• With a sloped back wall, the water surface comes to the fore, minimizing splashing and unpleasant odors. Experts recommend opting for this particular model.

According to the drain in the upper cisterns, toilet bowls can be divided into three main types.

Bell

The bell is a cast-iron tank, which is attached to the toilet with a steel pipe. Inside it is made of a lever, a chain, a bell (a cast-iron cork with a gasket at the bottom). Rising, the bell passes water into the drain pipe. As soon as the chain is released, the cork drops. Among the shortcomings of this model, one can note the need to replace the gasket every few years. Another unpleasant moment is the accumulation of rust and deposits that impair draining.

Corrugation

The corrugation works when a rope is pulled on a lever. The corrugation bends, the water is sucked in. While the rope is released, the bell of the corrugation is tilted until all the water in the tank is completely drained. Of the problems with this design, it is worth noting a leak at the base of the corrugation, which forms after several years of use.

Pear

The pear is characteristic of all modern drain systems. The principle of operation of the design is based on the fact that the lever or button is pressed, the stem rises, the pear leaves the saddle, water flows. Despite the variety of saddle and pear shapes, the disadvantages of this design are common. The most basic problem is the reduction of rubber elasticity, which leads to leakage. Another disadvantage is related to the contamination of the seat with deposits, which also causes leakage.

Toilets can be classified according to the material of the seat(plastic), case material (san faience, san porcelain, metal, a natural stone), design and even color. Some models are equipped with a microlift. This is one of the handy features.

Location selection

The layout of the toilet room should begin with the choice of a toilet bowl. It is necessary to take into account all its features. Only after that should you start further action. Of course, if there is an old toilet, it must be dismantled. Most likely, the room will still have to be overhauled. And it includes an update of the eyeliner sewer communications, floor screed, cladding.

Before installation, you need to estimate the dimensions of the new plumbing fixture. This will allow you to understand how best to place it: in the center of the room or closer to the wall. It may be better to mount it on the wall or move it close to the bathroom. It is necessary to determine the height at which it is better to install the toilet. Today modern models are able to satisfy any whim in this regard.

The unconventional location of the sewer pipe can be a difficult task. Therefore, it is worth foreseeing the best options in advance. Perhaps it is worth deploying or extending the pipe itself, or maybe it would be better to choose a non-standard plumbing model. Of course, ideally, if the toilet can be connected vertically at an angle of 90 degrees. It is worth remembering that it is better if there are as few intermediate parts between the toilet and the sewer as possible.

You can draw a diagram of the location of the toilet and other items in the toilet. So it will become more clear whether you need an angular placement of the structure or you can get by with the generally accepted standard. In modern new buildings, everything is simple. After all, here the toilet is installed from scratch, all communications are summed up taking into account various models. In the old Khrushchevs, everything is clearly more complicated.

Dismantling the old

When the new toilet has already been selected, the location is known, as well as its main characteristics, it is worth moving on to the next step in the form of dismantling the old toilet. Most often, you have to clean floor-mounted toilets that are attached to the floor. You can easily and quickly deal with such a task yourself. There is no need to go to the master.

It’s worth starting by turning off the water and draining it from the tank into the toilet bowl. Then you need to unscrew the hose that goes from the drain to the tank. Next, unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they don't work, you should use by special means. They are applied to fasteners (for about 6 minutes), completely dissolving lime or rust during this time.

Of course, you can do without such funds. For example, using a wrench or a screwdriver to break the mounting bolts is easier. If the old toilet is planned to be thrown away, then the problem of poor detachment of the tank can be solved with a hammer. After the tank mounts are unscrewed, you should go to the toilet bowl mounts. Often they look like a nut screwed on an anchor. To facilitate the unscrewing process, you can use the methods described above.

When all fasteners are unscrewed, it is necessary to disconnect the toilet drain from the sewer. In old toilets, as a rule, the place where the drain is attached to the sewer pipe was coated with cement. If so, you will have to remove the cement with a screwdriver and hammer. And you need to start with a coating that runs across the seam.

Next, you should swing the drain, but leave it in place. The toilet must be moved different sides to finally drain the remaining water in the knee. It is necessary to disconnect the neck from the sewer pipe. This is not always easy: sometimes the toilet can be glued cement mortar to the floor. In this case, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, the pedestal is broken off in parts.

Now the toilet should easily unhook, it can be taken to the trash. If desired, you can chop with a sledgehammer to make it easier to take out. Another important point- it is necessary to plug the sewer hole with a plastic or wooden plug. This will allow you to work without unpleasant odors.

After the old toilet is dismantled, you should evaluate the condition of the pipes. For example, before installing new design experts recommend replacing the cast-iron pipe with a new plastic one. Modern pipes can greatly facilitate the installation of the toilet. Perhaps it is better to replace an uneven pipe with a direct analogue in order to make it easier to mount the toilet to the sewer drain.

How to install: step by step guide

Installing a toilet yourself is not at all difficult if you follow a small step by step guide. Moreover, to install the toilet on the floor and wall, the most important thing is a flat and prepared surface for fastening. For installation, it is worth preparing a number of tools in advance.

The main list includes:

• perforator;
• wrench;
• spanners;

• a hammer;
• sealant;
• screwdrivers;
• roulette;
• flexible hose.

The toilet cistern comes complete assembled or disassembled. In the second case, it will need to be assembled before installation. It is best to start the installation by decomposing all the parts to make sure they are present. Following the instructions from the toilet manufacturer, you need to assemble the inside of the tank. Actions may vary depending on the type drain system. It is worth double-checking the reliability of fixing parts, but without undue effort, especially when tightening screws and bolts.

On the floor

Floor-standing toilets are somewhat easier to install than wall-mounted ones. Yes, and while they remain still more popular. Determine the coverage and evenness of the floor in the toilet room. Installing a toilet on the floor is different, based on the floor covering. For example, on tiled floor no need for additional alignment.

If a tile is laid on the base, but it is not quite even, better installation to carry out by means of chopiks and screws. If the toilet is installed in a new building where there is no finish, it is better to fill in the screed and then lay the tile. If under the old toilet was located wooden stand, it should be dismantled. The resulting empty space should be filled with cement (preferably one that hardens quickly). In the event that the floor cannot be completely leveled, it is possible to increase the tightness during installation using a sealant.

They clean the sewer pipe from debris and deposits, install a tap on the water pipe (if it is not there) to shut off the water to the tank. Connect the toilet drain to the sewer pipe. You can do this in one of several ways.

The junction of the toilet bowl with the sewer is best sealed with silicone sealant. This will ensure that water does not get under the toilet when washing the floor. If the toilet bowl is connected to cast iron pipe, it is best to use a 110 mm adapter collar. Before use, a sealant is abundantly applied to it, then it is inserted into a cast-iron pipe. It is worth emphasizing that before this it is imperative to clean the pipe from contamination.

You can do this with a corrugated cuff. The main advantage of this method is economy. However, the toilet cannot be closely attached to the socket. It is better not to choose this method for small rooms. Using a straight cuff, you can ensure a strong and tight connection between the bowl and the sewer. With the help of an eccentric cuff, it is possible if the centers for connecting the toilet and sewer are displaced. Follow the pre-determined toilet installation method.

For dowels

Try on the product again. Particular attention should be paid to the angle of inclination, as well as how the height of the sewer coincides with the neck. If inconsistencies are identified, they should be eliminated. Circle the seat with a pencil or marker.

Make markup. To do this, determine the central axis of the toilet bowl. It is best if it coincides with the center of the room. With a reference to the axis, it is necessary to install the bowl at a distance of about 15 cm from the sewer socket. Make marks for the holes with a marker, which is strictly vertically inserted into the holes for the fasteners.

Prepare mounting holes. To do this, you need to remove the toilet bowl to the side, make holes with a puncher according to the marks. Then it is necessary to clean the holes of debris and pour silicone into them, which in this case is a waterproofing agent. Then you need to insert the dowels.

Install the bowl. A special rubber gasket or a layer of silicone is placed on the outlined place for landing. Then they put the toilet in place and press it to the floor. Bushings are inserted into the holes for fasteners, the screws are tightened without undue effort, fixing everything with plugs. Remove excess silicone rubber spatula or with a damp cloth.

For adhesive

You can use silicone glue liquid sealant, epoxy resin. This method is only suitable for smooth floors. Conduct markup. To do this, the bowl is placed in the required place and outlined with a pencil.

Prepare the base. You need to start by cleaning the floor and the base of the bowl from various pollution. In order for the adhesion with the adhesive to be the best, it is necessary to make the surface rough. To do this, it is cleaned with sandpaper. It is also necessary to degrease the base of the toilet bowl and the floor with acetone or solvent.

Prepare the adhesive for work, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Apply glue to the bottom of the toilet and the inside of the contour on the floor. It should not be applied in too large a layer. Set the bowl in place. Be sure to press it hard to the floor.

Wait for the glue to dry completely. This usually takes at least 12 hours. During this time, it is better not to touch the toilet and not sit down. This will avoid location offsets. The fastening will be stronger.

On taffeta

Taffeta is a gasket made from durable wood. A plumbing structure is attached to it. This method is ideal when installing a toilet on a wooden floor. However, it can also be used on other floors. In addition to wood for taffeta, a rubber backing 5–15 mm thick is sometimes used. For example, you can use an old rubber mat.

Prepare taffeta. To do this, take a board, the thickness of which is 2.8 - 3.2 cm, cut a blank out of it. Then it is treated with drying oil or a solution that can prevent decay. For reliable fastening, anchors are fixed in the workpiece. You can also drive nails in a checkerboard pattern so that they stick out of it by 2 - 3 cm.

Make a recess in the floor to install the toilet. The size and configuration of the recess must fully comply with the dimensions and shape of the taffeta. Fill the hole with cement. Take the taffeta and turn it with the anchors or nails down. Then they lower it into the cement on the floor. If everything is done correctly, the board will be flush with the floor.

Waiting for the cement to dry completely. Install a toilet. To do this, put the bowl on taffeta and fix it with screws, which are pre-lubricated with grease or graphite. Rubber washers should be placed under the screw heads so that the ceramic remains undamaged.

After the toilet is fixed, follow simple instructions.

• Install the tank directly on the toilet bowl and mount it with the plastic screws that come with the kit. It is important not to forget to install an O-ring between the tank and the toilet.

• connect flexible eyeliner. It is advisable to choose a long hose for this. Particular attention should be paid to the diameter of the inlet holes so that the fastening is strong. Do not use excessive force when tightening the union nuts.
• Install the cover with the seat and the release button. Instructions for their installation are in the instructions. The technology of work is extremely simple and understandable to everyone.
• Do a test run of water. If there is a leak anywhere, tighten the connections.
• Adjust the locking mechanism, according to the instructions.

On the wall

You can install toilets on the wall in a private house and apartment. Connecting modern models to the sewer is completely simple.

It is worth noting that such designs can be used even with a vertical sewer outlet.

• Assemble the installation frame itself, according to the instructions.
• Install the upper stops, which outwardly resemble rods. They are adjusted using a screwdriver and a socket wrench.
• Install the bottom stops, similar to plates. Adjust them with a socket wrench.

• Adjust the height, for which the already assembled frame is moved to the wall. The center of the frame should be exactly above the middle of the sewer pipe.
• The height of the installation is carried out using a bubble level. There is a mark on the frame that should be lowered or raised to the required height. Most often it is 1 m.
• Adjust the height of the stops, and also set the distance from the wall indicated in the documents.
• Fix the exposed frame reinforcement to the wall. For this in necessary places mark with a pencil or marker. After that, it is necessary to drill holes and install dowel bodies in them. Then install the fasteners themselves, after putting them on the sealant.

• Install pipes, and couplings to a fixed installation. They are fixed in place.
• Install metal rods. They will be attached to the toilet bowl. They are screwed into special sockets, then silicone seals are put on top.
• Extend the sewer pipe required distance and fixed with a brace. It must be inserted into the groove until it clicks.
• Connect the water supply to the tank. To do this, open the tank lid and remove the plug on the side surface. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the hole formed. It is connected to the insides with a cap nut. It must be tightened very carefully, since most often the nut is made of plastic.

• A tee is installed inside the tank, to which a pipe is connected using an American and an adapter. Also, a flexible hose from the tank is connected to the tee. It is attached with a cap nut.
• Close the installation for the toilet with a false wall, for example, from moisture-resistant drywall. As a rule, drywall is attached to the frame and profiles.
• Finish the wall and hang the toilet bowl. Install a decorative panel for the drain device.
• They put the toilet bowl on the pins, the outlet of the bowl hermetically enters sewer socket from plastic.

Before installing and before purchasing a toilet, you should familiarize yourself with the recommendations of experienced plumbers.

By following some rules, many problems can be avoided.

• The first thing experts advise to pay attention to is the type of drain. This is especially important if the sewer supply will not change. With the help of adapters, it is especially difficult to make a high-quality connection of a toilet bowl with an inappropriate type of sewer outlet.
• Do not postpone the purchase of plumbing at the last moment, and also purchase it after repair. It is better if the place in the toilet room is prepared under specific model toilet beforehand. This will simplify the installation of plumbing.
• An eccentric cuff, which is called a corrugation, will help compensate for the difference in floor height before and after repair. To supply water to the tank, it is better to use a flexible hose.
• In the case when the sewer pipe leaves through the floor, it is worth using a rectangular elbow or a flexible corrugated cuff.

• Perfect option during installation, when the toilet drain will be connected to the sewer without any cuffs and other additional elements. For sealing, a ring with a rubberized border can be used.

At uneven floor in the toilet room, the installation of the toilet should be done using silicone sealant.

Plumbers recommend using small wedges made of wood or plastic. However, with them it is also necessary to use a sealant to evenly distribute the weight of the toilet bowl. When installing a toilet bowl on old cast iron, it is better to use a sealant.

You can also apply sealant to the outer part of the joint.

• In order to easily and without damage remove the corrugation connecting the toilet bowl and the sewer, its exit and the outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with wet soap. And only after this procedure is put on a sewer socket.
• Before you make marks with a marker through the holes in the sole of the bowl, you need to sit on it and check how comfortable it is. If necessary, you need to immediately correct the position.
• Do not use plastic dowels that come with toilet bowls. They break quickly, so it is better to give preference to other fasteners.

An additional insert in an old cast-iron sewer pipe can be removed with a perforator or burned out. Under no circumstances should a hammer be used. It is possible to burn out if the cavity was filled with sulfur or clogged with a cable. Before burning it is necessary to take care of sufficient ventilation of the room, remove all flammable means and materials.

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• Device
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Do-it-yourself toilet installation

The reasons for replacing the toilet can be different: changing the old one, repairing or rearranging appliances. You can hire experts, but if you want to save money, it's better to figure out how to install the toilet yourself without their help.

- not such a difficult matter, but you will have to master several technological operations and follow some rules.

Choosing a new toilet

First of all, you will need a new toilet. When choosing a toilet, you need to pay attention to its size and connection. The best option is to purchase a toilet bowl, similar to the one that stood earlier. This is important because you will be sure that you will not have problems with the connection, since all the holes will match. But often you want to buy something completely different, in which case you will expect difficulties with installation: the necessary spare parts for fasteners may not be available or it will be necessary to redo the sewer system if the toilet is mounted, for example, on the wall. Classic variant A toilet bowl is a floor-mounted toilet with a 45-degree outlet to the floor. If you had a toilet bowl of a different design, it is better to make a drawing of it in order to avoid mistakes when buying. But of course, you can buy any model you like, especially since some come with detailed installation instructions.

When buying a new toilet bowl, you must take into account the distance between the edge of the toilet bowl and the side wall, it should not be less than 20-25 cm, the size of the toilet bowl is selected accordingly. The second parameter to consider is the distance from the floor to the axis fan pipe, which is indicated in the characteristics of the toilet. If the socket is too high, then you will have to raise the floor level, which is quite laborious. If it functioned without problems, then install a new one in the same place.

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Materials and tools for installing a toilet

To install the toilet, you will need to stock up:

• puncher to make holes in the floor;
• dowels;
• a set of wrenches;
• screwdrivers for mounting the drain tank;
• silicone sealant;
• large wrench;
• tape:
• polyethylene;
• a piece of thin rubber or old linoleum;
• pencil or marker.

For drilling holes, it is better to use a hammer drill, if it is not available, then you can rent it. If you use a conventional drill, setting it to impact mode, you can ruin tile and the process can take a long time. Perforator one hole is made without special efforts within 2-3 minutes.

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Removing an old toilet

Before installing a new toilet, you need to dismantle the old one, you can handle this yourself. There is an option to use the old toilet bowl again, for example, in the country. But from the point of view of economy, this is not the most the best way. All plumbing fixtures are designed for a certain service life, so they can quickly fail if you do not change parts. Replacing parts with new ones can cost as much as buying a new economy class toilet. Therefore, if the toilet has served most of its life, it is better not to reuse it.

Before dismantling, it is necessary to clean the pipelines. The easiest way is to pour hot water into the sewer pipes with some detergent. If you simply drain the water from the tank, this will not help much, since the old plumbing is being dismantled, and therefore there are deposits inside that will prevent dismantling. For flushing pipes, you need to take 2-3 buckets hot water and dilute one bottle of whiteness or domestos in them, then all this must be poured into the toilet. Now you can start dismantling.

The tank is most easily dismantled, difficulties may arise with the lower fasteners. AT Soviet times it was not common to bolt the toilet bowl to the floor, most often the toilet bowls were installed on the mortar. Since the same plumbing fixtures were installed throughout the country on concrete floors with nondescript tiles, the described method was widespread. You can break such a base only with a puncher and a hammer. Don't forget your goggles, as shards of faience can get into your eyes. If the toilet was installed relatively recently, then to dismantle it, you need to unscrew the screws with which it is bolted to the floor.

When you can pour out a little water, so you need to prepare rags and buckets in advance. Next, you need to seal the sewer pipe using a piece of polyethylene and tape. Polyethylene should simply be wound around the hole and secured with tape. This procedure is necessary in order to avoid overflowing if too much waste flows from above. The intake opening must be cleaned before sealing. If the sewer is cast iron, then you can use a hammer and a spatula. If the pipes are plastic, then they can be cleaned with a sharp knife.

After dismantling the old toilet bowl, it is necessary to clear the place where the new device will be installed. If the floor surface was damaged during dismantling, the imperfections can be filled with a repair mortar. It is not necessary to wait for the solution to dry completely, since the defects are usually small, and there are support points for the base of the toilet bowl. For complete drying cement mixture it takes a month, after which the surface under the toilet will be a monolith.

Sooner or later there is a need to change the plumbing. Recently, many owners prefer to do the installation work on their own. Further in the article we will deal with how to properly install the toilet.

general information

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you must select it. The main criterion in this matter will be the size of the room. Yes, for typical bathroom suitable toilet model "compact" imported or domestic production. Experts recommend purchasing a product similar to the one that stood before or with the same type of fastening system. It must be said that the assembly different types toilets are different. As a rule, the differences consist in the need to connect special equipment and additional features. Modern models are equipped with enough detailed instructions on the different languages, including in Russian.

Important Points

Before purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the old product. You need to pay attention to:

• Release angle. Various models are being produced today. The angle can be oblique, straight or vertical. You should measure the height of the outlet to the floor. If the output does not match in the model of the selected product, it will be possible to additionally purchase a drain transitional corrugation.
• Water connection. Traditionally, a bottom or side eyeliner is used. A flexible hose is installed. Choosing a new plumbing fixture, you should consider the length of the eyeliner. Before installing the toilet, you should purchase a new hose.
• Mounting method. An old toilet can be fixed to the floor with two bolts. In this case, you need to purchase another set of fasteners. In some bathrooms, the appliance is cemented into the surface. In this case, it will be necessary to break the floor screed until a wood insert appears.

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you should also check the method of blocking the water supply to the tank - from a common riser or locally. In the first case, you will have to contact local plumbers. It is also necessary to assess the condition of the sewer and water pipes throughout the apartment. It is possible that before you install the toilet, you will need to replace any elements. Before starting work, prepare the following tools:

• Drill and drill with a diameter of 10.
• A hammer.
• To assemble the tank - 2 wrenches.
• Silicone sealant.

Preparation for dismantling

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you should remove the old product. Dismantling is carried out in several stages:

Dismantling

First of all, remove the mount to the floor. Bolts (if the old toilet is screwed on) are unscrewed. If the toilet is filled with cement, then the screed breaks if possible. If this is difficult to do, you will have to hit the plumbing object at the fixation points. After the toilet is removed, it must be tilted back. This is necessary in order to drain the remaining water from the cavities. Next, you need to disconnect the socket. The corrugation is simply removed. If a cast-iron or plastic socket is installed, then it must be disassembled to the first connection or cut to size. This is done after the toilet is removed.

Next, a corrugation should be inserted into the sewer socket. From the side of the joint, the element must be lubricated with sealant. The socket should be cleaned from the inside and also lubricated. The corrugation is inserted until it stops. After that, it is better to plug the entrance with an old rag or close it with a special plug to prevent the spread of sewer smell.

old mounts

If the floor is even (flooded with a screed or tiled), before installing the toilet on a tile or cement base, remove the old fixing elements. If the new product has similar fasteners, then the parts are installed in the old places. The old plastic dowels are drilled out. New ones are inserted in their place. Holes can be wider than dowels. In this case, the product will not be fixed securely. To prevent this, new holes should be prepared. The toilet assembly is attached to the place of fixation. Next, you should note the attachment points, taking into account the dimensions of the product, the length of the corrugation and the eyeliner. Dowels must be carefully hammered into the prepared holes. Items should fit easily. From proper preparation holes will depend on the further stability of the toilet.

Screed

If the sanitary ware has been filled with mortar, then before installing the toilet bowl, it is necessary to make a new base. After removing the old product, the wooden lining will be visible in the recesses. The floor is leveled with a thick cement mortar, a toilet bowl is placed on top and screwed. After the screed dries, the bolts are finally tightened. One point should be taken into account here. Wood lining can rot over time. If the installation of the bar is not expected, then the screed is poured and allowed to dry for 2-3 days.

We install the toilet ourselves

A new product is attached to the prepared attachment point. Fasteners are twisted alternately - one and the second should be tightened evenly. The assembly of the product is carried out together with the drain tank. As a rule, modern models are made in the form of a compact design. In this case, the toilet and cistern are already connected to each other. When installing products equipped with automatic system collecting and draining water, usually there are no difficulties. However, attention should be paid to the assembly and adjustment of the float valve. This element is responsible for the volume and pressure of incoming water. The next step is to fix the flexible eyeliner. One end is screwed to the water pipe. Then you should open a faucet a little and drain a little water. This is necessary to flush the pipe from the inside. Next, the water closes, the second end of the hose is connected to the toilet. Here it is necessary to check the reliability of the rubber pads located under the nuts. Here's how to properly install a toilet.

System check

After completing the installation, you need to check the work. Water opens in the system. While it is being drawn into the tank, you should carefully inspect all the joints, check for leaks. Next, you need to drain the water several times. This checks that there are no leaks in sewer connections. After a few hours, everything should be carefully examined again. Here's how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands.

custom design

Often there is so little space in the bathrooms that many owners decide to install a hanging toilet. It should be noted that the installation of this product is somewhat more complicated than the one described above. How to install a wall hung toilet? More on this later.

General information

The product itself and the tank are mounted on the wall. For this, a supporting frame is used - a frame. It is usually mounted in a wall (in a niche) and closed decorative panel. The depth of the niche will depend on the width of the tank. In this case, technical gaps of 1-1.5 cm should also be taken into account. The sewer pipe, which also closes in a niche, must have a horizontal socket. If there is no possibility to equip a recess in the wall, then the frame is installed close to the surface. From above it can be sheathed with drywall and tiled like walls. Design wall hung toilet allows you to mask all communications. Outside there will be only the product itself and the button for flushing.

Frame installation

The height of the assembled frame is usually 1.3-1.4 m. The lower part of the frame should be equipped with adjusting screws. Brackets are installed on top. With their help, the vertical position of the frame is adjusted. The drain button is located at a height of about a meter from the floor. The toilet seat should be at a level of about 40-42 cm. Partly the exact dimensions will depend on the preferences of the inhabitants of the apartment, partly on the model of the product itself and the position of the sewer pipe. As a rule, under the structure remains free space. It is quite convenient when cleaning the room. The supporting frame is installed strictly in vertical position. For alignment, use the level. The future location of the frame can be determined using plumb lines. After that, holes are drilled in the wall and floor. Dowels are inserted into them. After that, the frame is installed and adjusted with screws. horizontal position. Vertical alignment is carried out by brackets. After giving the frame the required position, it is fixed with lock nuts.

The final stage of frame installation

How to install a tank? In this case, the element is not fixed to the toilet bowl. Installation is carried out on the frame. After installation, the tank should be connected with a flexible hose to the water pipe. Then it is necessary to adjust the elbow-shaped adapter in length. It connects the socket of the outlet pipe and the outlet of the toilet bowl. After that, the pins are mounted for fastening, in fact, the bowl of the plumbing fixture. Corners are installed around the perimeter of the frame. The lining will be fixed on them. On its front surface, all required holes- for pins, pipes and release buttons.

Finishing the installation of the toilet

The product is attached to the selected place after the frame sheathing and other Finishing work. At the installation site of the toilet, the wall must be perfectly flat. A special paste must be applied to this place. As a leveling compound, you can use white for seams, Portland cement, or white cement. The paste should have the consistency of a thick slurry. A gasket is put on the pipes and pins (it is supplied in the kit), then the toilet bowl is hung and pressed tightly against the wall. At the same time, tighten the nuts. The protruding paste must be carefully removed. In conclusion, a few words must be said about how to install a toilet seat. Actually, there is nothing complicated here. The seat is usually attached with two bolts. Included with the product you can find these fixing elements.

During the overhaul of the apartment, we are faced with the need to replace the old toilet bowl with a new one. A professional plumber is often called in to perform this work. However, installing a toilet with your own hands is not like that. difficult task as it might seem at first. If you are limited in funds or want to save on the services of workers, then this article is for you. Below we will tell you how to choose the right toilet, prepare the room, assemble and install a new plumbing fixture.

Choosing a toilet

When choosing new plumbing, you should consider some features of the toilet and bathroom. Namely:

• Room area;
• The presence or absence of an external water supply pipe, its diameter and distance from the intended tank;
• The location of the sewer pipe;

• Release angle. Most best option- This is the installation of a toilet with an oblique outlet. You can measure the height of the outlet from the floor with your own hands, and with a slight mismatch, install an adapter - a drain corrugation.

All toilets have their own design and fastening features. First of all, you need to divide them into suspended and floor. Installing a wall-mounted toilet has aesthetic advantages, in addition, it takes a lot of space. less space. Whereas the floor toilet is more practical, convenient and reliable.

Flush classification

There are two main types of flush - straight and circular.

1. Straight (or horizontal) is more common in simple budget models plumbing equipment. Water from the tank flows down the back wall of the toilet bowl, which does not allow you to remove dirt under the rim. During the collection and discharge of water, such a toilet creates a lot of noise.
2. Circular flush effectively cleans the entire surface of the bowl due to the ring device. However, toilets with this type of flush are significantly more expensive.

Removing an old toilet

Dismantling and installation of the toilet follow each other in the event that you need to replace old plumbing to a new one. This happens during the overhaul of an apartment or a bathroom.

All actions must be carried out in a strictly defined order:

1. Put on safety goggles and work clothes;
2. Turn off the cold water, and then drain the water from the tank;
3. Disconnect the water pipe and remove the tank;
4. Unscrew the floor-mounted toilet from the floor;
5. To detach the toilet bowl from the sewer pipe, use a sledgehammer or hammer. Gently tap on the cement or adhesive covering the joint. Make sure that the fragments do not fall into the pipe and do not clog the drain;
6. Shaking the toilet, remove the remnants of the sealant and remove it from its place;
7. Now you can clean the bathroom, clearing the place for a new plumbing fixture. Clean up the sewers and water pipes from rust and plaque, and then treat with a lubricant that prevents metal corrosion.

Building a new toilet

Installing a bidet and toilet is not an easy task, but doable. Any floor-standing toilet bowl consists of two main parts - a bowl and a drain tank. Our first task is to connect these two parts into a complete plumbing fixture using screws, nuts and various gaskets.

The assembly of the toilet bowl begins with a drain tank. First you need to mount the drain mechanism, and then the float. Drain mechanism, which is usually attached assembled, is not difficult to install. Insert it into a special hole on the bottom and secure with a plastic nut, on which then put on a rubber seal.

Important: Don't forget the rubber pads! All toilet connections are made using them.

The toilet assembly instructions do not end there. Before proceeding with the installation, you need to connect the drain tank to the bowl. To do this, you will need metal studs. Install the tank on the bowl and secure it tightly by putting a special washer on the stud, a rubber gasket and securing it with a nut. Repeat all this with the second hole.

Toilet installation

Floorstanding toilet installation instructions

Installing a toilet bowl in a private house with your own hands or in an apartment with the help of a professional - all this does not matter. If your choice fell on a floor-standing toilet, then its installation in any case will have to be carried out according to the scheme described below.

• Before installing plumbing, it is necessary to complete all finishing work.
• Installing a toilet bowl on a cement or tiled floor has its own characteristics. The floor must be perfectly flat, otherwise, when tightening the fasteners, the toilet itself or the tile may suffer.
• Insert the dowels into the holes and screw the plumbing fixture to the floor, but not completely.

• If you are mounting the toilet at some distance from the wall, then it's time to start installing the corrugated pipe and finally fixing the toilet, checking its strength and immobility. In this case, the pipes are connected with rubber seals and sealant.
• When the installation of the bowl is over, it's time to connect the water to drain barrel and check the functionality of the entire device. Use to supply water corrugated hose from metal, tow and nuts of the right size.

Do-it-yourself wall-mounted toilet installation

Installing a toilet with installation is not much different from installing hidden toilet. In both cases, the most commonly used bowl hanging type, which obliges us to mount not only a drain tank, but also a metal frame into the wall with our own hands.

Important: Make sure your wall is strong. It is better if this parameter is evaluated by a specialist.

Steel fasteners are mounted using dowels to concrete and reinforced concrete wall(rarely - to brick). The installation height of the toilet bowl is determined independently at this stage.

Attach the toilet bowl and install the cistern following the instructions. Connect them with a flexible hose and connect to the water supply and sewerage system.

Remember: The tightness of the joints in this case is ensured in the same way as in the case of a floor-standing toilet.

Video

Do-it-yourself toilet installation with a competent approach and a thorough study of the issue is unlikely to cause you any difficulties. Below you can find video clips that will make the installation process simple and understandable. Happy viewing!