Ranch two-layer tile cut dragon tooth. Laying shingles shingles SHINGLAS. Shinglas shingles installation technology

Today, soft roofs not only occupy a leading position in the market, but have become a real discovery for designers and architects. Many styles, individual solutions and the possibility of easy implementation on a roof with a complex structure - what more could you want? The main thing is to achieve absolute tightness between the shingles, on which the durability of the entire coating depends. And the installation shingles it will be within your power, believe me, even if you are faced with this type of work for the first time!

Therefore, if you carefully read our advice, then with the help of one more person you will cover even a large roof area. The fact is that even in the factory, the shingles are prepared for gluing, applying special solution on the bottom layer, and even make four holes so that you know exactly where to drive the roofing nails. And now we will tell you about all the intricacies of working with a soft roof.

Once the roof frame is ready, install the vapor barrier as a solid carpet with inside roof, without gaps, and fix to the rafters with wooden planks. On the same strips you will attach later inner lining attic.

Now take care of the vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then all the moisture will come out of it by itself, with the help of natural ventilation. But in the case of a residential attic, vapor barrier is necessary. For this purpose, an additional bar is stuffed on the rafters, rolled out vapor barrier film with an overlap and glued with a special adhesive tape (the usual one does not fit!).

Next, with outer side lay the selected insulation on the vapor barrier film, preferably spaced apart. Cover with a windproof membrane on top and fix with bars, which will also later serve to create ventilation ducts.

As a result, you should get such a “layer cake”, as roofers like to call it:

We have prepared for you detailed master class how and in what order everything should happen:

As you can see from the photos above, put flexible sheets on the exiled lucarnes was no problem!

Step 2. Installing solid decking

For the installation of flexible tiles, a rigid solid base is required. Therefore, on the prepared crate, mount a solid carpet of plywood or OSB-boards, with a gap of 3-5 mm, which is necessary for deformation from temperature and moisture, and fix it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.

The main requirement for the base for shingles is a flat area and the ability to fix shingles with nails. For this, sheets of glued wood shavings like plywood or a tongue-and-groove board laid end-to-end are suitable. Only the board should be as dry as possible so that waves do not form during drying. But it is a big mistake to use only the crate itself under the soft roof, albeit more frequent, because already in the first season the entire roof will simply go in waves. And photos with such problems become a real asset for manufacturers who scare their customers with such mistakes.

Once the base is ready, reinforce the cornice overhang with metal strips. These are laid with an edge on the edge of the base and fastened with roofing nails, in increments of 150 mm, in a checkerboard pattern:

Step 3. Selecting and installing the substrate

Now is the time to take care of waterproofing. It is necessary in such difficult places, as abutment, joints and valleys. Here the canvases are laid from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm in the longitudinal and 15 cm in the transverse direction:

We recommend that you use a specially designed underlay rather than roofing felt or similar material as they sometimes do. The fact is that they also have a finishing roofing - different dates operation, and even the terms of use!

And such an attempt to save money will soon lead to swelling of the entire roofing carpet. In addition, no manufacturer will guarantee a roof that uses third-party materials in the pie.

By the way, until recently, lining carpets were practically not used in Russia, and even today many people strive to cheat. This is logical, because by the time the roof is being built, it often turns out that the planned budget for the whole house is not enough, and you have to make concessions. But, if you want to lay a flexible tile roofing and forget about it for many decades, then do not give up such an important element.

There is always a risk of water infiltrating the roof space, especially in tricky areas such as bypasses. chimneys or contact with the installed antenna. There are also emergencies when strong wind lifts the shingles during a downpour.

Moreover, pick roofing carpet not hard, because it is subject to the same requirements as for tiles: to be resistant to temperature extremes, provide reliable waterproofing and serve for a long time. A modern market provides many options, both imported and domestic. Moreover, many plants in Russia today operate on European equipment and are not inferior to foreign analogues in terms of product quality.

In general, lining carpets are of two types: self-adhesive and mechanically fixed. Self-adhesive ones are laid mainly in valleys, and mechanical ones are rolled out on the remaining area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof and fixed with galvanized nails:

Here is the installation process of a conventional roofing carpet, which will need to be fixed bituminous mastic:

Here is an example of working with a more modern self-adhesive roofing mat:

So, for a valley, a self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is ideal. And, if the slopes have a slope of more than 18 degrees, then consider laying the carpet in all places of probable leaks, and these are: ribs, ridges, gable overhang and all exits of roofing elements.

But on a roof with a slope of 12 to 18 degrees, you will need a continuous waterproofing carpet. Prior to this, on the cornice overhangs, we recommend putting a self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material, for example, "Barrier", and at the same time strive to ensure that the carpet itself is without overlap - continuous along the entire length:

Also insulate the ventilation passages, areas around skylights and chimneys. Before the installation of flexible tiles, coat all the passage elements with bituminous mastic with your own hands - this is not difficult.

Before you start laying shingles, you will also need to reinforce cornice overhangs. You need to fix them with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm. Here is an informative video lesson from the company on this topic:

Step 4. Selecting fasteners

To fix flexible shingles, you will need special nails With wide hats. It will be extremely important to nail them so that the hat is in the same plane with the surface of each shingle, and at the same time does not “crash” into it. In addition, nails for soft tiles must be galvanized.

Nails for mounting soft tiles are divided into the following types:

• Roofing nails. They have such a sharpened edge that when deepened into the bitumen layer, they do not violate its integrity. Such nails are produced galvanized or without a protective layer at all. Of course, unprotected ones are the cheapest, but at the same time they are not at all practical and quickly begin to rust. These are only suitable for assembling furniture or building temporary shelters.
• Ruffed nails. On the working rod, they have special cloves that are directed towards the cap. These are not easily hammered into the wood, although it is quite difficult to pull them out even with a nail puller. And most often, in the process of dismantling, they simply cut off the head of the ruffed nails - and that's it. They fix the roofing so firmly that they are more often used for slate than for soft roofing.
• club nails have longitudinal grooves and lintels on the working rod, and they are less suitable for soft roofing.

We recommend that you take exactly galvanized ruffed nails with a head diameter of 8-9 millimeters as roofing nails specifically for flexible tiles. They also produce special nails for bituminous shingles, and they differ from standard counterparts.

These are made of durable steel wire, which is automatically cut into equal pieces, then the workpiece is sharpened on one side, and riveted into a hat shape on the other. If you see these for sale, you can buy them.

But it is important at the same time that the nails themselves comply with GOST 4030-63: the diameter of the rod is 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the cap is at least 8 mm. The thing is that in working with concrete shingles, the most unpleasant moment is when the nails, at the next blow, simply sink into the bituminous layer and violate the integrity of the coating. But the extended hat will not be able to “drown” so easily. And the larger it is, the better it will hold the shingle, which is why high-quality nails for shingles resemble a pushpin. Moreover, for single-layer and two-layer tiles, you will need nails with parameters of 30x3.5 mm, and for a three-layer one - 45x3.5 mm.

By the way, some unfortunate builders do not understand why it is impossible to simply heat up the sheets of soft tiles and stick them on the flooring, why nails and all the fuss associated with them? Actually use open fire on such a roof is prohibited due to elementary considerations fire safety. So forget about this risky idea and rent an automatic device.

Step 5 Place the Starting Strip

And now we proceed directly to the laying of flexible tiles. It starts from the start line. As such, you can take:

• a pattern from an ordinary tile, for example, a shingle with cut petals, if you are working with collections " Tango" or " Trio»;
• universal ridge roof tiles, especially if you are working with Chord», « Sonata" or " Jazz».

If it is more convenient for you to start with cornice tiles, lay them on top metal bar, slightly retreating from the place of inflection. Next, nail it with nails, but keep in mind that the longer and steeper the slope, the greater should be the indent from the bend:

This is how laying the starting strip looks in practice:

Step 6. Installation of different types of shingles

Now let's unpack the shingles. The main requirement for their installation is dry, warm weather, after all, it is undesirable to lay bituminous tiles at a temperature of less than + 5 ° С, because in areas where it will need to be bent, it will be difficult to do without cracks.

If you still have to fasten the shingles in such conditions, then prevention will be needed: the sheets are heated with a building hair dryer and bent to metal pipe about 10 cm in diameter. But it's better not to do that.

count up required amount shingles is not difficult: take one sheet, measure the area that will be visible, find out the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope and divide the second by the first. Here valuable advice how to calculate and prepare a flexible tile for installation:

Of course, if you have a diamond eye, then detailed calculations can be dispensed with, but marking lines serve as excellent guides along which you can align the tiles both vertically and horizontally. Especially if you are laying a soft roof for the first time.

Believe me, tearing off a few sheets and attaching them again to fix a jamb is not the most fun thing. And absolutely without marking, if some element is embedded in the roof or the general geometry of the ramp is broken. In this case, you will be helped by such tools as a beating, a plumb line and a level.

As we have already said, for convenience, ready-made shingles are usually marked with small holes at the factory so that you know exactly where to hammer nails. If there are none (for example, the cheapest collections), then just step back 2-3 cm from the edge and be guided by this illustration:

In each case, the place where the nail is driven will directly depend on the shape of the cutting of the tile itself. It is only important that each nail pierces both the lower and upper edges of all sheets at the same time, and if you are laying flexible tiles on slopes with an angle of 45 °, then the upper corners of the shingle also need to be additionally fixed.

The whole procedure for laying flexible tiles is not complicated, here are the instructions for the process itself:

1. Before laying, mix the shingles from several sticks to minimize color variation. The fact is that even in one mail the color can differ so much that you will be surprised, and such incidents will be very noticeable on the roof.
2. If the slope is long enough, start laying tiles from its center and align it horizontally. And the second row - already shifting the shingles to the left or right by half a sheet. Move the third and all subsequent rows relative to the previous one, also half the petal, to the left or right, depending on which direction you chose initially.
3. You need to start laying tiles on a slope with a smaller slope, while you should enter a steeper slope by at least 30 cm. On a steeper slope, it is recommended to beat off the chalk lines so as not to go astray. Now cut the tiles on a steeper slope along this new line, and after fixing, coat with bituminous mastic where there is no self-adhesive layer on the back side.
4. Lay the tiles from the bottom up, stepping back from the edge of the drips. Here it will be necessary to lay a special ridge-cornice tile. By the way, you can replace it with a regular one if you cut the petals.

Now secure the shingles. An automatic tool is good for this, especially if it works from electrical network. Most importantly, when choosing a model, take care of your own safety: the trigger must be comfortable, with protection against accidental firing and the ability to remove a stuck nail without any risk. After all, usually a hammer is more intended for small jobs By household, and professional roofers rarely use it.

The only point: if special roofing nails do not fit the gun, take a ready-made clip with nails with a wide flat head. They differ in that they are interconnected thin wire. Here such a tape is inserted into the chamber and the nail is fed one by one. This is much more convenient when working at height: no need to look for bunches, no need to put your fingers under the blow, and the fastening itself will be of better quality than when you are already too tired on the 501st nail. The main thing is to follow the basic technology: the nail must be driven in strictly perpendicular to the plane of the shingle.

Remember, if some shingle was fixed unreliably, then over time it will loosen its fastening and fly off with a gust of wind. And the nail itself, lifted from the wind, will tear the sheet, loosening the neighboring one. And all this will lead to leakage and necessary repairs. Of course, it will not be possible to completely do without problem areas, which is why a periodic inspection of such a roof is needed.

Now consider the features of the installation of shingles different types. So, from a single-layer tile before installation, you need to remove protective film, which is always located on both sides of the shingle. Why is she? The fact is that this roofing is transported by ordinary trucks both in the heat and in the heat, but we are still talking about bitumen.

But in collections with such cuts as " dragon tooth”, there is no film, it is only important to choose beautiful drawing or lay randomly by simply mixing the shingles.

And how exactly to work with each type of shingle cutting, the following illustrations will help you:

Further, if you have to work with a complex roof, you have two ways of laying shingles: segmented and seamless. In the first method, divide the corner or cone into equal segments, and lay out each of them separately. And in this way, cover the entire roof. The seamless method is already more complicated: here it is important to make correct markup slope and navigate along it. Think and choose the one that seems more convenient to you.

Step 7. Fixing the tiles in the valleys

And now - about the most problematic places of the roof. Valleys, namely the internal bends of the roof, you can organize in two ways: open and closed, which is also called the undercut method. The main thing then is to make a triangular rail at the junction of the roof with the wall and put tiles under it.

In addition, if the wall is brick, it must be plastered and treated with a bituminous primer. Top part the junctions should then be closed with a metal apron, which must be fixed and brought into the strobes, and then sealed:

Step 8. Laying ridge and back tiles

Next, we will deal with the concepts of ridge tiles. As you might guess, these are the shingles that cover the ridge of the roof. All other tiles are called ordinary. By the way, spinal tiles are obtained when the ridge-eaves are divided into three parts, or they are cut out from the usual ordinary by perforation.

To properly lay the back tiles, with the help of a cord, beat off the dimensions of the future ridge - these are two strips along it, and lay the back tiles from the bottom up. Then fix the shingles with nails on each side and make sure that the overlap of the overlying shingles overlaps the nails by 5 cm.

The ridge tiles are laid from the side that is opposite to the so-called wind rose (you can find out about this from your neighbors or from the wind map). Further - everything is the same as during the laying of the ridge. If there is no self-adhesive layer in the right places, coat it with mastic.

Now let's move on to the ribs. Here ordinary tiles should be cut so that between adjacent slopes there is a distance of 3 to 5 mm:

Here is another great tutorial where you can go over the details of the process:

And finally finishing work. The laying of flexible tiles is always completed by installing ridge aerator. To do this, a special groove is cut out along all the slopes, and an aerator is inserted into it. It is fixed with nails and covered with specially ridge tiles.

Also, for a soft roof, special additional elements are made - these are the lower parts of the roof passages, which are popularly called "skirts". And so that snow does not accumulate behind the ventilation and chimney pipes, especially when their cross section exceeds 50x50 cm, you need to organize a groove. In short, you will need the following items:

So, your roof is ready, and it remains only to properly care for it. To do this, once every six months, use a soft brush to sweep all small debris from the roof, leaves and branches. The main thing is not to use sharp tools, because it is important not to scratch the basalt chips. And clean the gutters and funnels from time to time.

Luckily, shingle roofing is highly maintainable: just warm up the damaged area, remove it, and lay new tiles. A matter of one day!

Shinglas with various color codes cannot be used on the roof of the same building.

Mixing shingles from 5-6 packs will help to avoid visible differences in color shades different parts roofing (if this is not done, then a subtle difference in color tones may be distinguishable on the finished roof).

IN cold weather(at outdoor temperature below 5-10 degrees) Shinglas must be stored in a warm place for at least a day before installation. The temperature in the room should not be lower than 20 degrees, and no more than 5-6 packages should be taken out into the cold at a time. The following packages can only be delivered to the roof after the tiles from the previous ones have been laid.

The self-adhesive strips on bituminous shingles need to be warmed up in cold weather. For this purpose, a building hair dryer is used.

Tiling fastening

Fig. 12 (scheme of fastening sheets with nails)

The tile sheets on the slope are fastened to the continuous flooring with roofing nails resistant to corrosion. These wide-headed nails are driven in in such a way that the head does not go deep into the surface of the tile sheet either directly or obliquely. The bottom edge of the cap must be exactly in line with the surface of the tile (see top image in fig. 12).

The required number of nails depends on the angle of the slopes, as well as on the SHINGLAS collection and the shape of the tiles. Recommended nail position for different series Shinglas is shown in fig. 12.

Important: the flexible tiles of the JAZZ and COUNTRY series are mounted with an overlap, therefore, at the junction, two adjacent sheets are fixed with one nail. In order to correctly determine the place of fixation, one should focus on assembly line, which is present on outer surface tiles of these series (this line is applied during the manufacturing process roofing material).

For fastening roofing sheets CONTINENT series, only long nails with a wide head (4.5 centimeters long) are suitable.

Installation of the starting strip

The material for the starting strip is selected depending on the SHINGLAS series. In some collections, ridge-cornice tiles are used for this purpose, while in others, standard ordinary tiles are used.

Ridge and cornice universal tiles do not require cutting and are laid with the adhesive side down on top of the waterproofing lining material with an indent from the fold eaves plank by 10-20 millimeters. The longer the roof slope and the greater the angle of its inclination, the wider this indent should be.

Fig.13

The starting strip for Shinglas with the shape of cutting Accord, Beaver Tail, Sonata or Trio is made from ordinary tiled sheets, from which the petals are cut. From the underside, the entire surface of the strip, with the exception of the adhesive layer, is covered with a layer of mastic, after which it is glued in exactly the same way as described above.

Under a soft roof with a Continent and Dragon's Tooth thread, the starting strip is made from shingles of an ordinary tile without cutting off the petals.

Laying the first and next rows of Shinglas

It is recommended to lay the sheets of soft roofing starting from the middle of the slope. This makes it easier to align the shingles, especially on long pitches. The first row of tiles starts from the starting strip with a gap of 10-20 millimeters between it and the lower edge of the roofing sheets.

Laying the next rows is carried out from the bottom up diagonally.

Features of the installation of ordinary tiles, depending on the shape of the cut, are shown in fig. 14 and 15.

Western and Sonata

Chord

beaver tail

Trio

dragon tooth

Continent

The second row is laid from the middle of the slope with a shift in one direction or another by the width of half the petal. You can carry out installation from the center of the slope in any direction - to the right or to the left.

The lower edge of the petals after fixing the second row of tiles with nails should coincide with the upper edge of the cutouts in the previous row.

In the same way, with a shift of half a petal and alignment with the cutouts of the previous row, the third row of shingles and all subsequent ones are laid.

On fig. 16 shows a variant of the installation of Shinglas shingles from the middle of the slope in strips, and in fig. 17 - in the form of a pyramid.

Fig.16

Fig.17

With a downpour or slanting rain, the risk of moisture leakage along the edge of the roof increases. To avoid this, it is advisable to glue Shinglas shingles along the edge of the roof with FIXER mastic to a width of 100 millimeters.

At the gable, the corners of the shingles that fit the end plank must be trimmed, as indicated above, in fig. 9. This is done to organize the proper flow of water from the roof.

Why Dragon Tooth is good and why Shinglas Ranch is chosen both in the North and in the South

In the steppe, near Orenburg, sports facilities appeared, which from above resemble a UFO.

The domes of the complexes are covered with tiles from a volume of 6000 m2 white color.*

Square and rectangular shingles cut "Dragon's tooth" form a 3D pattern of the roof with smooth color transitions. The 3D view looks good on rooftops** and blends in seamlessly with the surrounding landscape.

How natural material, multilayer tiles does not deform during operation, does not produce dust, does not emit harmful substances, safe for human health.

durable;
waterproof;
wind resistant;
fade resistant;
eco-friendly;
mounted in bad weather;
corresponds Russian GOSTs and international EN standards.

** Shinglas Rancho shingles are suitable for roofing bases with a slope of at least 12 degrees

Choose the right one color scheme and buy flexible tiles at a budget price in Yekaterinburg, Tyumen, Chelyabinsk, you can

You should not save, and it is better to use a soft roof. Although the ease of installation makes the price per 1 sq. m. acceptable, for average incomes. Today we will consider the Shinglas roof, laying technology, properties, pros and cons. Most importantly, the service life of this coating is about 60 years, of course, subject to technology.

• ANDEREP GL - the principle of the device and structure is similar to that of soft tiles, it is also fixed mechanically, and does not require the use of mastics to seal the joints. Apply mainly under a soft tile.

1. Roofing nails. This is a steel fastener coated on top stainless steel, the diameter of the nail head is not less than 9 mm. And also the diameter of the rod is not less than 3 mm. Fastener consumption per 1 sq. m. is 80 gr.

And now we will tell you why we settled on the Shinglas tile.

Because like tiles, so do all auxiliary materials and accessories are made by the same manufacturer Techno Nicol and can be bought in one place. Which is very convenient and saves a lot of time.

Installation of shingles Shinglas

As we all understand that the installation consists of many stages. The first step is to create

Foundations for laying

It should start with the fact that work should be carried out in a warm, rainless season.

We attach a membrane film to the rafters, which will protect the insulation from moisture.

We fix the film with the help of a counter-lattice.

Insulation is laid on the underside of the membrane between the rafters. We fix the counter-rail on the counter-lattice in increments of 20 cm.

We choose the most best option, this is OSB-3 (oriented strand board), but plywood and other building materials can also be used.

It should be fixed in the form brickwork using nails and screws. The seam between the plates must be left 3-4 mm. for thermal expansion.

When using shingles from the Western and Continent collection, the base must be at least 12 mm thick. For other collections, a thickness of 9 mm is sufficient.

Lining technology

We have examined the types of lining option above, it should be noted that self-adhesive is used for the valley area. lining layer ANDEREP, it is advisable to use one roll for the entire length, but if this does not work out, then the overlap should be at least 30 cm and do not forget to carefully glue the joint. The width of the lining carpet should be chosen 1 m, 50 cm from each edge.

In the area of ​​the cornice overhang, ANDEREP self-adhesive material is also used.

The material is laid on the very width of the eaves, as well as about 60 cm inside the building.

This installation method prevents water ingress.

The entire remaining surface of the roof is covered with lining material with mechanical view mounts. Laying can be carried out both in the longitudinal direction and in the transverse direction. From the bottom up, in the longitudinal method, the overlap is not less than 10 cm. Parallel to the cornice overhang, the overlap is not less than 15 cm. With any method, the joints must be processed by the Fixer to the full width. The lining carpet is attached to the roof surface with roofing fasteners.

It should be noted here that after lining material attached, markup. The marking allows you to lay evenly soft tiles, both vertically and horizontally, but this does not mean that tiles should be nailed along these lines. Everything is simple vertically, the strip is equal to the width of the tile itself, and horizontally every five rows minus 80 cm.

Shinglas shingles installation technology

We fix the starting strip, this begins. You can use a special ridge-cornice tile or the tile itself, only after cutting off the petals.

We retreat about two centimeters from the edge of the roof and stick it on top of the lining layer and nail it.

After that, we begin the installation of the initial row, experts recommend starting, from the center of the roof and unforgettably, retreat 2 cm from the edge of the starting layer.

The next layer is mounted in the same way from the center, but shifting to the left or right to the floor of the petal. So we continue to glue and nail the tiles for each subsequent row, and do not forget to shift.

Tiles in each pack may vary slightly in shade, so several packs should be mixed. The tiles are nailed with galvanized nails, the main thing is that the hats are in the same plane with the roof surface.

For different shapes shingles different amount fastening and fastening method.

So for the Dragon Tooth, the overlap of two layers of tiles is simultaneously fastened with a nail to make it easier to hammer in, the manufacturer marks the front surface of the roof with a thin line.

The Continent collection should only be fastened with nails 45 mm long.

The edge of the tile along the edge of the roof should be glued with impregnation to a depth of about 100 mm. this allows the roof to be protected from side rain. It is recommended to heat the adhesive layer with a building hair dryer.

We bring the top row to the ridge and cut it by 2-3 cm, to the edge of the metal bar, to beat off water. On the other side of the roof, the sequence is the same. Ridge tiles are also used for arranging ribs. Near the ribs and slopes, the coating is cut so that there is a gap of about 50 mm. Ridge tiles, stacked from the bottom up, overlapping about 5 cm. Fastening is done with nails, 2 pcs each. from each side.

The series of tiles Ranch, Jazz, Country, Finnish and Classic must be bent only on a heated metal pipe, this is done on purpose so that the tile takes the desired shape and does not burst at a negative temperature.

Where the roof adjoins the wall, it is necessary to fill the wall with a wooden lath in the form of a triangle, on which the edge of the row of tiles is wound.

Also, the wall should be treated with a primer. Ridge tiles are laid on top of a row of tiles.

With an overlap on the prepared wall, but not less than 300 mm.

We carefully process all joints, seams and surfaces.

Roof care

As with any type of flooring, shinglas shingles require maintenance and repair.

Shinglas flexible tile, the installation instructions for which will help you carry out the work without errors, is a high-quality material for arranging the roof. The canvases are something like a layer cake.

general description

During production, it is impregnated with modified bitumen. The top layer is basalt dressing, which may have different shades. It is she who provides an attractive appearance and protects the roof from impacts. The bottom layer is self-adhesive which has a protection in the form of a siliconized film. It is quite easy to get rid of it before installation.

Consumer reviews

Before you study the installation instructions for Shinglas tiles, you need to read the reviews of customers who have already used the described material as a covering for the roof of their house. Owners of private buildings especially note its frost resistance and durability. The first quality indicates that the sheets can be used in especially cold climatic zones. If we talk about durability, then the duration of the service life is much longer compared to similar coatings. Private masters and professionals who are engaged in laying roofing, note the slight weight. This does not imply the need for Bearing structures You don't have to reinforce either.

It is impossible not to pay attention to the reviews in which buyers talk about noiselessness. Even heavy hail or rain will not be heard by those inside the building. Using the Shinglas flexible tile in the process of work, the installation instructions for which are presented below, professionals emphasize that after the completion of all manipulations, a minimum amount of waste remains. This is confirmed by statistics even in the case of those roofs that have a complex configuration. In the latter case, the volume of waste is not more than 5%. Owners of private houses, who have been using the described material for more than one year, talk about its water resistance. This is due to the fact that the material forms a continuous coating, which is why the use of additional waterproofing is not required. The material is very resistant to aggressive media, and is also characterized by safety. The covering material is not magnetized, does not accumulate and does not attract lightning. You can not be afraid that the roof will ignite, as the material is fire resistant.

After installation, you will not face the problem of high operating costs. This is because painting and repair during use are not required. In addition to all the above positive features that are reflected in the reviews, it can be noted that the Shinglas flexible tile, the installation instructions for which will allow you to eliminate errors, is excellent appearance, which harmoniously fits into the landscape and serves as a real decoration of the house.

Flooring work

Giving recommendations for the installation of Shinglas, professionals point out the need for a serious approach to the issue of arranging the foundation. It should be smooth, rigid and solid. It is important to ensure that there are no differences in height, but if there are any, then they should not be more than 2 millimeters. When installing large-panel flooring, it is important to ensure the expansion of the seams. To fix it, you should use ruffed nails or self-tapping screws. When laying wooden flooring special attention should be paid to the annual rings. The material should be covered in such a way that the rings are turned with bumps down. Laying the base of plywood or OSB-3 with low temperatures, between adjacent sheets leave a gap whose width is 3 millimeters. This will prevent deformation of the flooring when exposed to elevated temperatures. If you are installing Shinglas flexible tiles with your own hands, the instructions presented in the article will allow you to achieve the desired effect. If there are boards different thickness, which will be used for arranging the flooring, it is first necessary to sort them. This is done so that the thickness of the base changes gradually.

It is important to ensure that the thicker boards are installed in such a way that they are located closer to the eaves, and as for the thinner ones, they should be located near the ridge. The joints must be on supports, in these areas the boards are strengthened with nails in the amount of 4 pieces, but not less. If you plan to use wet wood, then the boards are mounted on 2 self-tapping screws on each side.

Work on the cornice overhang

If you plan to carry out the work yourself, then you will need the Shinglas installation instructions. The technology of laying roofing material is presented in the article. In order to strengthen the cornice overhang, steel should be used. They will protect the material from impact. external factors. Planks must be fixed to the edge of the base with nails, which are installed in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15 cm from each other. Planks should be mounted with an overlap, the width of which is 5 centimeters. In these areas, fasteners are installed at a distance of 3 cm.

Work on the underlayment

If you decide to use Shinglas-Jazz soft tiles, installation instructions this material will help you. Lining carpet, regardless of the slope, is laid over the entire area. Near cornice overhangs and in valleys, ANDEREP self-adhesive lining material should be laid. It will protect areas where leaks are most likely. Particular attention should be paid to cornice overhangs, in these places the self-adhesive carpet should be laid in such a way that its width is greater than the cornice overhang.

Carrying out markup

These manipulations are performed in order to designate the guide lines along which the roofing material will be laid. This is especially true for the unusual geometry of the slope or in the presence of structures that are cut into the roof. Vertical lines should be applied at a distance equal to the width of the tile shingle. Tiles in five rows should be placed between the lines. This indicates the need to remove the vertical lines from each other by 80 centimeters.

Features of laying shingles

If you decide to use Shinglas Ranch soft tiles for work, the installation instructions for this material will help you eliminate errors. Shingles from packages should be mixed beforehand. If the thermometer drops below +5 degrees, then the packages must first be placed in a room with a temperature of +20 degrees. The self-adhesive strip on the material must be warmed up with building hair dryer. If it is necessary to cut the material on the roof, it is necessary to carry out these works on a plank, which eliminates damage to the coating.

If you yourself will be installing the Shinglas soft roof, the instructions presented in the article will help the master, who does not have sufficient experience. Each shingle should be secured to the base with wide-headed galvanized nails. The number of nails will depend on the angle of the ramp. If you have to work with a roof whose slope does not exceed 45 degrees, then each canvas should be nailed with four nails. If the degree of slope is higher, then you will need two more fasteners. Nails should be evenly spaced, they must be installed in such a way that the hats do not cut into the roof surface, but are in the same plane with it.

What the master needs to know about the starting strip

If you will be installing the Shinglas soft roof yourself, the instructions will help you deal with the technology. For the starting strip, ridge-cornice tiles should be used, however, shingles and ordinary material will do, such a sheet will need to be cut off the petals. This element it is laid over the cornice strip so that it is located 2 centimeters above the bend. It is worth remembering that the width of the indent from the kink will depend on the length of the slope and the angle of inclination. The steeper the slope, the more impressive in width the indent should be. If the work is supposed to use sheets that have the shape of cutting " dragon tooth”, then no trimming is necessary.

Laying technology

If you will use Shinglas flexible tiles as a roofing material, the installation instructions presented in the article will help you deal with the nuances of the work. In the presence of a rather long slope, installation is recommended to start from the central part. This will make it easier to align horizontally. 2 cm should be retreated from the initial strip, after which you can proceed with the installation of the first shingle. The master should pay attention to the fact that the junction of the canvases of the first row should not coincide with the junctions of the elements that make up the starting strip. Depending on the shape of the cut, installation can be carried out using the diagonal strip method, in the form of a pyramid or vertically oriented elements. Cloths of the second row should begin to be mounted from the central part of the slope, moving horizontally to either side by 1/2 petal in relation to the tiles of the first row.

Conclusion

If you apply soft tiles"Shinglas", the installation instructions presented above will certainly help you. End shingles of ordinary material in areas without adhesive should be treated with bituminous mastic. It is important to process a width of 10 centimeters. The top corners are trimmed by 3 centimeters for effective fight with exposure to water. All the above rules are recommended to be followed, only then the roof will last a long time, and will also look attractive throughout the entire period of operation, which every specialist and home master dreams of.