Types of drainage: surface and deep. How to do surface and deep drainage Deep drainage

In the process of construction planning country house be sure to remember that there are types of drainage necessary to collect and drain water from the site. Everyone hopes that the house will keep warm throughout years, but at one moment an excess of moisture, which is often facilitated by autumn bad weather or spring floods, can nullify all efforts. Damage will be done not only to the house itself in the form of destruction of the foundation, flooding of the basement, the appearance of fungus and rot, but excess moisture can also cause freezing and rotting of trees and bushes, disease of plantings.

That is why, in order to get rid of such a misfortune, it is necessary to equip immediately, when building a house. This will allow later, during bad weather or floods, not to create a landscape in a new way. personal plot, spending money on its arrangement and drainage.

Varieties of drainage

Consider what drainage is: these are various structures and pipes that allow you to lower the level of water, both groundwater and groundwater.

Often, perforated drainage tubes with holes in the walls are laid lower than the water level is located - ground ground-pressure. Pipes can be either asbestos-cement or ceramic, pottery and plastic or polymer - PVC and polyethylene. The diameter of the pipes can vary from 5 to 20 cm and even more. To prevent clogging of the walls and holes of the drainage pipes with soil particles, special shells are installed, which are made of filter materials.

There are two main types of drainage - a surface drainage system (open) and a deep drainage system (closed). Let's dwell on them in more detail:

Surface drainage plots are assembled from modular channels. This type of drainage is used to drain flood, melt and rain water from platforms and paths, the surface of the site, roofs of buildings and open terraces. This water is discharged into the storm sewer and outside the site. open drainage area can be performed:

using point drainage or point elements;
organization of a linear drainage system or drainage line.

Another type of drainage deep- this is a system of channels and pipes through which water is discharged into a special well or collector, outside the site.

Pro tip:

The surface type of drainage is arranged to prevent the occurrence of waterlogging zones around buildings, therefore it is preferable to develop it in combination with deep drainage.

Surface drainage and drainage

Local collection of both rain and melt water is why point-type drainage is needed, and a drainage line is useful for collecting atmospheric precipitation from a large area. The best way is to combine these two systems. Let's dwell on them in more detail:

Drainage line. A linear drainage system is a system of deepened channels (drainage trays, gutters, gutters) and sand traps for them. A container that retains sand and small debris applied by water flows is called a sand trap. It protects the pipes storm sewer and drainage systems from blockage. That is why it needs to be cleaned as it fills up. On the sand traps, as well as on the gutters, install removable gratings made of steel or cast iron.

Point drainage. The use of spot elements installed under drainage systems, designed to drain water from the roof, into the doorways - this is precisely what is meant by the local collection of water - rain and melt. Point drainage is complemented by linear drainage systems (gutters, sand traps) for the possibility of draining water from entrance areas, balconies and terrace surfaces.

deep drainage

Closed drainage or deep drainage is a system of channels (drains) located underground, lowering the level of groundwater and serving to drain water from the territory and from structures outside the site.

It is necessary when the site is located in a lowland, it is swampy or in other waterlogged places. In case of exploitation assumption ground floor it is also necessary to have a drainage device in the area, which in this case is wall drainage. According to experts, drainage is almost always necessary for middle lane Russia. Be sure to check the depth of the groundwater, even if the water does not squelch underfoot. After all, their close presence leads to decay and oppression of the root system of both shrubs and trees.

With a high location of a site with sandy soil that drains well, and the location of the groundwater level is lower than 1.5 m, deep drainage can be abandoned.

Deep drainage according to its design is divided into:

combined;
horizontal;
vertical.

Horizontal drainage has been described above, so consider the features of other types:

Vertical drainage - these are drainage shafts that are arranged in a special way, equipped with pumping stations and buried in the territory of the site. Such a site drainage system is a rather complex engineering structure. That is why vertical drainage is practically not found in suburban areas.

Deep combined drainage combines vertical and horizontal system. In some cases, it is he who can support in complex relief and climatic conditions necessary water balance. However, combined drainage, like vertical drainage, is structurally quite complex, has a high cost, and therefore is quite rare.

Drainage: his device

In order to arrange a drainage system, it is necessary to first dig trenches of the required depth, which should have a slight slope towards the drainage well and towards the natural watercourse, if possible.

Crushed stone or gravel and sand are poured at the bottom of the trenches.
Then perforated drainage pipes with holes for water passage are laid.
After that, it is covered with sand and gravel, and a layer of turf is laid.

Pro tip:

Usually lays pipes (drains) in several rows in the form of a herringbone. At the same time, the central drain collects water from the adjacent side parts, and then diverts it outside the site or into a drainage well.

A drainage well is arranged if there is not a sufficient slope to drain the water, or if there is nowhere to drain the water. In the well, if necessary, install a drainage pump.

Most often, the deep drainage of the site is laid parallel to the storm sewer, since the systems of underground and surface drainage solve different problems. Although some of the designers do not allow the combination of linear drainage with a deep drainage system, the rest of the designers consider this option to be quite acceptable.

Many people regularly accumulate water in their plots after rainfall. Water forms puddles and, apparently, is not going to be absorbed into the soil at all. This is caused, as a rule, either by the features of the relief (plain or lowland), or by the type of soil impermeable to water (clay, loam), or by the presence high level groundwater.

Most often there are combinations of the above reasons. In this case, it is worth trying to arrange drainage on the site with your own hands, because. similar phenomenon can lead to very, very serious problems.

Waterlogging of the soil, as a rule, leads to the following:

plants on the site are experiencing growth problems;
basements are flooded, and their walls are significantly damaged;
the service life of the foundation of the building is reduced;
decorative paths, pools and ponds are damaged.

If they are ignored, such problems in the future can lead to significant deformations of buildings and structures, their subsidence, which reduces their service life and increases the likelihood of sudden crack opening. Drainage also eliminates excess moisture, eliminating the impending danger.

Site drainage methods

There are the following drainage methods:

with the help of gutters located along the site;
with the help of water intakes, rainwater inlets;
using perforated pipes placed in the ground;
using drainage wells equipped with pumps and filters.

Each method of drainage on the site primarily depends on local conditions. So, for example, the first two methods are extremely ineffective in the case of a high level of groundwater occurrence or the presence of clay soils. The latter methods, on the contrary, are recommended for use in the above conditions.
The use of the first and second drainage methods is possible only when water accumulates on an absolutely flat area or in lowlands.

Types of drainage systems

Drainage systems are classified according to the type of device:

Surface (open and closed).
Deep (they are deep). There are vertical, horizontal, combined.

Let's try to understand such a voluminous and confusing classification.

Surface drainage on site

Surface drainage is essentially divided into open and closed. Moreover, the first type is also divided into two types: point and shower. Both types are used only if the site is located in a lowland or on a completely flat surface.

Spot drainage is simply small pits into which water flows. It can be additionally equipped with small gutters arranged under a slope. It is best to arrange point drainage where the accumulated water occupies a very small areas. The water flowing into the pits can then be used, for example, for watering plants.

Storm drainage is more efficient for drainage from large areas. It is a whole system of gutters and water inlets that collect water from the entire perimeter of the site.

Closed drainage on site

When the accumulation of water in the area is caused increased level groundwater or clay soil type is used closed type drainage. It is carried out in the form of dug trenches filled with crushed stone, gravel, etc. similar materials. Sometimes perforated pipes are placed in the trenches, which can significantly lower the level of accumulated water and bring it out of the site.

deep drainage

This type of drainage is divided into local and general types. The first is used to lower the water level by separate sections or their parts, the second - for vast territories, groups of sites.

By type of device, deep drainage systems are:

Ring. They run along the entire perimeter of the foundation of a building or a group of buildings, are arranged in sandy soils. They are, as a rule, trenches filled broken brick, rubble, rubble. Extremely unreliable look, literally in a couple of years already in need of repair;
Wall. In this case, the name speaks for itself. At some distance from the wall, depending on the width of the foundation, there are storm sewers and drainage wells. This type is arranged in clay soils. It is possible to combine wall and ring type drainage in areas with various types soil;
Plast. They are used when other types are not effective, as well as in cases where there are a large number ground water, pressure water.

According to another classification, there are three types of deep drainage:

horizontal;
vertical;
combined.

Horizontal drainage is a perforated pipe placed in the thickness of the earth, passing along the perimeter of the site and removing water away from the liberated territory.

The vertical view is more complex in terms of device, but has limited functions. In fact, vertical drainage is called a system of water wells, equipped with pumping stations and expensive filters. This type drainage is quite expensive and practically impossible for non-professionals to install.

The combined look is more attractive. It combines the previous two types, thereby performing the most efficient drainage.

Do-it-yourself drainage device on the site

Installing a drainage system on the site on your own, although difficult, is nevertheless quite possible.

First, it is necessary to determine the places of the greatest accumulation of water. These include pits, potholes, low places, etc. After observations, it is necessary to draw up a map of the territory on which all places of accumulation of water will be marked. Having drawn up a map, you can proceed to further actions.

Secondly, you need to choose the most suitable drainage system for the site from the above. To do this, it is also worth finding out more about the soil in your area. And this means that you have to dig a little and carefully study the soil.

Having learned everything you need about the types of soil, you can proceed with the installation suitable system drainage. It is important to know the following rules:

Try not to place the drainage system too close to the buildings, otherwise uneven precipitation may occur as a result of a decrease in the groundwater level under the foundation.
Never install any pumps or wells in your basement! Such cases happen, and then the building begins to sag sharply, cracks appear on the walls and part of the building may collapse. You should never do that!
If you arrange surface drainage, then do not forget about desired slope so that water does not flow to your surprise where it is not needed.
If you decide to arrange vertical deep drainage, then you should not bother with pumping stations and expensive filters. All this is too complicated and simpler, and even cheaper to install such a system with the help of specialists.

Thus, do-it-yourself drainage on the site is quite feasible, especially if you follow the instructions and do not common mistakes. One has only to consider that some types of drainage are too difficult for self-assembly, so it's easier to order the services of a specialist.

Our suburban properties are located in a variety of localities. For some, the consequences of any downpour immediately disappear, so they say: like water into sand. Because the soil of the site is really . And for another landowner, even a little rain reminds of itself for a long time with puddles.

If there is more water in your area than we would like, or the past rains and melt water are in no hurry to leave the territory of the dacha, you should think not only about buying rubber shoes for the whole family, but also about the drainage system of the site -.

In previous publications, I have reviewed general principle artificial water removal system and surface drainage capabilities, as well as various ways decorative design drainage ditches OK.

In this material you will find information on what to do if the hydrological situation of the site is more complex and surface drainage not enough. That is, the groundwater level (GWL) is high, and the soil is clayey, stratified and poorly permeable to water.

deep drainage

Name "deep" speaks for itself: the structures of the drainage system are located at a depth, underground. The purpose and causes of a deep drainage device can be different:

an alternative to the surface, if you do not want or do not have the opportunity to place ditches on the site, even very decorative ones;
difficult hydrological conditions, that is, surface drainage alone is indispensable;
during construction. If the GWL at the building site is located at a depth of less than one and a half meters from the surface, then a drainage tab is required when installing.

The device of deep drainage is associated with large-scale earthworks and requires extensive calculations. The drainage system consists of drainage pipes laid underground. (drains) or other constructs like drainage tunnels, trenches, cushions, mats.

The choice of structures, the depth of laying and the frequency of location of individual elements of the system depends on the conditions at a particular site: the amount of water, soil permeability, drained objects. The site drainage system can be combined when deep drainage is combined with surface drainage.

In addition to drainage pipes and trays made of various materials(more on this can be found in the publication), deep drainage can also be made in the form of trenches filled with filter materials (gravel and crushed stone), without the use of drainage pipes. Soil is laid on top of such trenches.

Depending on the drainage needs of a particular site, two types of drainage systems are distinguished:

local, arranged to divert water from individual objects: buildings, roads, and the like;
general, are used to lower the level of groundwater in a vast area of the entire site.

And also closed (deep) drainage systems may differ in purpose.

An example of a dedicated diversion device excess water may be cut-off drainage. Its purpose is to cut off groundwater flows from the territory of the site or buildings.

It is necessary if your site is located on a steep slope. The cut-off drainage will reduce the washing off of the fertile soil layer and soil erosion. And in a situation where it is located above the site, the device of such drainage will reduce the zone of severe waterlogging that forms in the lower part of the slope.

Drains in this case are laid perpendicular to the slope. At the boundaries of the site, they are connected to drainage pipes laid parallel to the slope of the terrain and diverting the collected water to the lower part of the site or beyond its territory.

The cut-off drainage can be "P" or "L"-shaped. The number of transverse drains depends on the degree of moisture and the length of the slope.

Retaining wall drainage

landscape structures used in slopes, require drainage from the backwater. If located across the slope, their drainage can be combined with a cut-off drainage device.

With outer side it is advisable to supplement it, which will additionally prevent erosion of the base of the structure.

Drainage over a large area

If it is supposed to dry large area, then it is required to compose drainage plan. Layout of drains and grooves, drainage wells and absorbing containers - an integral part general plan construction and site. Planning the drainage system will take into account the features of the relief, the location of buildings and structures, communications, the planned planting of plants and their water requirements, the design of systems, and so on.

Drainage plan. Photo from matline.ru

Drainage when building a foundation

Proper drainage of the construction site will not only save you from damp, but also protect the foundation structures from damage. From the action of moisture, the lower part of the foundation is gradually destroyed, and the upper part, getting wet at the point where the foundation wall leaves the ground, is subjected to multiple freezing-freezing cycles in winter.

Fascine drainage, in contrast to plastic structures, less durable: branches rot over time, and drainage trenches covered in silt. But for 15-20 years, such a system will function no worse than one made from modern non-decomposing materials. And even after the branches in the trenches rot, in these places the soil structure will still differ from the original dense clay, which means that the old trenches will continue to function, albeit with reduced efficiency.

Which drainage system you choose depends on many factors. But pre-designed and functionally properly arranged drainage can greatly facilitate your life in the country, help to avoid many troubles associated with excess water.

Drainage land plot is as important as building a house. People who have buildings on sandy soil with a deep location of groundwater do not face this problem. But when your site is on clay soil, and even highly located ground water, only the installation of a drainage system will save your yard and buildings from excess water. After all, constant dampness can destroy the entire crop in the garden, trees and even your home.

What does it consist of

The drainage system consists of pipes laid in a trench along the entire perimeter of the site, with the output of water flow into a ravine or other designated place. As well as manholes for pumping water and cleaning the system. Deep drainage is of three types:

AT upright drainage, tubular wells are used, installed at the depth of groundwater. Via pumping stations water is constantly pumped out of them.
Horizontal drainage consists of a network of pipes laid around the entire perimeter of the site. Water passing through the filter enters the pipe and is discharged into the ravine.
Combined drainage consists of the two systems described above. It is also very complex and is not usually used in private areas.

Preparation for construction

Before proceeding with the laying of deep drainage, it is necessary to draw up a plan for its location and calculate the diameter of the pipes.

Note! To calculate the diameter of the pipe, it is necessary to carry out design and survey work, which includes the study of the soil and the location of water on the site. These works are not cheap, so the owners of their sites buy pipes at random. The drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is mainly used.

Drawing up a plan for laying the pipeline is carried out after studying the surface of the site using a level. In the absence of such a device, it is possible to observe during rain the places of large accumulation of water and the side of the slope where it flows.

Drainage installation

On the marked area, dig a trench with a slope towards the drain. The slope angle for laying the pipe should be 1 cm per 2 m of the pipe, and the depth of the trench depends on the depth of soil freezing and the level of groundwater. Practice shows that the depth of the trench is basically 60 – 100 cm.
At the bottom of the trench, pour a layer of sand 10 cm, level and tamp. On the sand throughout the trench, lay a geotextile sheet of such a width that its edges are enough to wrap the pipe along with crushed stone.
Pour a layer of crushed stone 20 cm thick onto the canvas. Connect the pipes with high quality so that over time they do not disperse. Install corner wells at all pipe bends for system cleaning and emergency pumping of water. Wells can be made from any improvised material. The main thing is that the bottom is sealed. At the end of the whole system, you also install a well. It will collect all waste water and is displayed in a ravine or other place.
The laid pipe is covered from above with the same layer of crushed stone and wrapped with the free edges of the geotextile fabric. Do not rush to bury the trench. If there is time to wait, then let the rain pass, and you look at the operation of the system. Not a single puddle should remain in the pit. Look at the drain outlet to see if the water drains well. Look into the wells so that they are not overcrowded. If everything is in order, then your system is mounted correctly, and it can be buried with the rest of the soil.

Making a drainage filter

There is such a situation: groundwater is high, and clay soil can't skip rain water to the drainage system through a layer of soil poured on top of the drainage. This situation threatens to flood the foundation of the house. To drain this water, you will need to pour an additional drainage filter. There is nothing complicated in this work. Let's look at how to make a filter mound to drain water.

The drainage pipe laid in the trench should not be covered with soil residues from above. Instead, fill the trench with fine gravel, then with coarse sand, and on top with fine gravel. The top of the rubble can be covered with geotextile and covered thin layer earth. Through such a multilayer filter, water will be absorbed faster and fall into the drainage.

Note! During the operation of the system, periodically inspect the wells and, if necessary, clean them. A well-functioning drainage system will take care of the safety of your site and all buildings from excessive moisture.

Video

If the house is located in a lowland or wetland, then a good drainage system is indispensable. It can be done in several ways, but only deep drainage of the house and site can effectively drain the soil and protect the foundation from destruction. The device of this type of drainage is laborious, but in some cases this is the only true option for draining the local area.

Even at the design stage of an honest house, it is necessary to provide for a drainage system. It will not be possible to “hide” from rain and melt water, precipitation will still go on. It is necessary to somehow remove moisture away from the foundation, otherwise the dwelling will not stand idle for a long time.

The device of deep drainage is a laborious process

With the adjacent plot, the situation is almost identical. If excess water accumulates on it, then it will not be long before swamping. And this is the rotting of the roots, followed by the death of plants, and the corrosion of those laid in the ground engineering communications.
All storm sewers are divided into two types:

Open (surface).
Closed (underground, ground).

Advice! If the site is dominated clay soils, then you must definitely take care of the construction of deep drainage near the house. Otherwise, even with minimal precipitation, the territory of the estate will turn into a huge puddle.

An important factor in choosing the type of drainage system is the composition of the soil. Sands and without additional funds drain water well surface layers into aquifers. Clays, on the other hand, retain moisture and prevent it from escaping.
The second nuance is the level of soil freezing. Drainage pipes and storm sewer wells must be submerged below this point, otherwise they will freeze and cease to function.

Circular drainage scheme around the foundation of the house

An open storm drain in the form of surface trays is able to cope with the drainage of only rain and melt water. If moisture has penetrated into the soil, then without underground deep system drainage is indispensable. Only she will drain the soil from the inside, diverting water into special wells.
Deep drainage has to be equipped when:

the house is in a low place;
soils in the area are clay or loamy;
aquifers lie close to the surface;
floods flood the basement or underground garage;
The cottage stands on a heavily buried foundation.

A deep-seated drainage system will protect the foundation of the house and house communications that are laid in the ground. It will prevent the accumulation of water in basements and basements, as well as prevent swelling and washing out of the soil.

The device of the deep drainage system

In order to properly make deep drainage, it is necessary to clearly imagine what elements it consists of and how they interact with each other. In some cases, it can be equipped only near the house, but it is better to drain water on the scale of the entire estate.

The deep drainage system includes:

perforated drainage pipes to collect water from the ground;
main pipelines;
manholes for control and cleaning of storm drains;
collectors.

All these components must be present in the deep drainage system on the site near a private house. Perforated pipes are used to drain water, which then flows by gravity through the mains into the water intake tank. From there, the effluent is pumped into a nearby body of water or a centralized storm sewer system.

Advice! With small volumes of water removed or with a purely seasonal frequency of precipitation with short rains, it is better to arrange drainage in the form of separate vertical wells on the site. This is easier and cheaper to do, but they need electric pumps to work.

A variant of the project of the drainage system of a private estate

Horizontally laid perforated pipes can always be replaced with several drainage wells placed around the site. But water from them will have to be pumped out using pumps.
Such a design cannot function without electricity and is rarely used anywhere. But if there is little moisture or storm tanks only need to be used for a few weeks of the year, then this is a perfectly suitable option.

The choice of materials for the drainage system

The main attention when arranging the deep drainage of the site with your own hands should be given to the drainage pipes and their installation. They must have many holes so that moisture seeps out of the soil into them. Holes can be made independently with a drill, but it is better to purchase factory-made perforated pipe products.
Drainage pipes can be:

Asbestos-cement - an outdated option.
Ceramic - durable, but expensive.
Plastic - the cheapest and running.

For storm drains plastic pipes made from polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride and polyethylene. Last option optimal for street sewerage he calmly endures negative temperatures and does not crack in cold weather.

Advice! For in-depth drainage, plastic pipes are recommended to be taken with long and narrow slots. They collect moisture better and do not clog as much as round-hole counterparts.

Pipes for drainage and water runoff should be selected corrugated. They withstand greater soil pressure and do not burst through when it swells. For deep drainage, depending on the laying depth, pipes with a stiffness class are suitable:

SN 2 or SN 4 - withstand 3 meters of soil from above.
SN 6 - withstand a 5-meter layer of earth.

Perforation on the pipe can be made round, half, 120 and 240 degrees. All options will work. Much here depends on the planned volumes of collected water and soil characteristics.

The perforated pipe is sprinkled with a layer of crushed stone and wrapped in geotextile

Wells can be made from:

bricks;
gland;
concrete;
plastic.

The best option is to mount the entire deep drainage system (pipes and wells) from plastic elements. Now ready-made parts are being sold, which you just need to put together as a designer.
Also, for arranging deep drainage, you will need geotextiles and fine gravel with sand. The first one will protect the perforation from small debris, and a pillow under the pipes will be made from a gravel-sand mixture.

How to make underground drainage yourself

The main difficulty in designing and arranging deep drainage is its individuality; for each section, calculations have to be done from scratch. It is necessary to take into account the structure and composition of soils, the level of their freezing and the depth of soil water.
It is possible to correctly calculate the diameter of pipes and volumes of wells only after performing hydrogeological and geodetic surveys. It is recommended to independently prepare a project for deep drainage of a house and a plot only if you have the appropriate knowledge.

Scheme of laying drainage pipes in the ground

With your own hands, you can only install the system. Even a novice master can lay pipes and equip wells in accordance with the scheme.
Arrangement of deep drainage is carried out in four stages:

Marking on the site of drainage ditches and wells.
Earthmoving works.
Well construction and pipe laying.
backfilling ditches with soil.

When digging trenches, it is important to observe the slope from the house to the final water intake. Water flows by gravity, this should not be hindered by anything. It is necessary to exclude even the slightest possibility of its accumulation and stagnation in the pipes.

Important! If the soil in the area is clayey, then geotextiles must be laid, otherwise the perforation will clog instantly.

At the bottom of the dug ditches, a crushed stone-sand cushion 10–30 cm thick is first poured. Geotextile is laid on it with a filter layer up and another layer of gravel is poured 10–20 cm. Then a perforated pipe is laid and covered with gravel from above and from the sides by 10 cm After that, it remains only to wrap the fabric and sprinkle everything with soil.
drain pipe must be wrapped with a needle-punching geotextile
In order not to bother yourself, you can take factory pipes already in a geotextile filter. They are made in accordance with GOST and are designed for laying in any soil.
Inspection and drainage wells are made using a similar technology, only geotextiles are not needed. First, a pillow is made of gravel and sand. Then a well structure is installed on it and everything is covered with earth.
Wells will have to be equipped both at the final, lowest point of the drainage system, and at the places where pipes turn and connect, so that their condition can be monitored and, if necessary, cleaned.

Video: drainage device in the local area

General scheme deep underground drainage for a private house is extremely simple: drain pipes and a water intake well. You can mount everything with your own hands from plastic elements. But it is better to entrust the preparation of the project of such a system to a competent specialist. It is necessary to conduct research and take into account a lot of nuances, otherwise it will be difficult to choose the optimal solution for a particular site.

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