Drainage around the house on clay soils. Proper drainage around the house: an analysis of the main technical points. Wall drainage scheme

What it is?

The device of almost any type of drainage system around the house is very complex structure, consisting of pipes that perform the work of draining storm, snow and groundwater from the house, foundation, areas with green spaces growing around the house or cottage. Water is drained into ravines, dug holes or into specially installed reservoirs.

In addition, a well-organized drainage system around the house can play the role of not only drainage, but also lowering the water level. In order to organize high-quality drainage, you can use metal, ceramic, asbestos-cement or plastic pipes. Last option drainage pipes are most widely used for groundwater drainage, so today it is the best in comparison with others.

Any drainage system around the house is unique, because its device is adapted to certain geological and geographical indicators of the area, for example, if there is a ravine or a forest with small ravines near your house or cottage, then in this case the water is drained through drainage pipes can be sent to an already prepared recess, if there is neither one nor the other nearby, you can dig a hole yourself, into which water will flow from the site.

Thus, self-made drainage around the house, cottage or cottage will not allow water to accumulate on the site, next to the foundation, cellar, and will prevent waterlogging of the soil.

In the photo above, you can see the device of the drainage system with your own hands around a private house.

Drainage scheme

The photo below shows in detail the scheme of the drainage device around the house.

Designation on the diagram:

  1. a funnel into which a drainpipe is installed.
  2. storm sewer system.
  3. drainage device.
  4. drainage well.
  5. drainage well.
  6. collector well.
  7. Check Valve.
  8. discharge of water into the ground.
  • Along the perimeter of your house, you need to dig trenches yourself, into which drainage pipes are laid. The slope of drainage pipes and dug trenches should be two centimeters per running meter equipped drainage.
  • The collector should be located at the bottom of the drainage system, into which storm or melt water will be discharged into the ground.
  • If in the area where your private house no way to create desired slope due to the hardness of the soil, then it will be necessary to provide for the installation of a pump in the drainage system diagram. It should be noted that the drainage system of the site created in this way will perform its direct work much more efficiently for a very long time.
  • For drainage work around the house, it is best to use perforated polymer drainage pipes, which can be bought at any hardware store. Today, the price of drainage pipes makes them affordable for everyone.
  • In the drainage system of the site, it is necessary to provide for the installation of revision wells, they are often located in the corners of the house.

As you can see, the drainage device around the house according to the above diagram does not cause special difficulties, so you can handle such work yourself, however, provided that you have finished circuit and work instructions.

Important: if you cannot make competent drainage system diagrams, then contact the design company for help, specialists will help you decide on the type of drainage system, complete the necessary drawings and diagrams, and drain the site so that you just have to rejoice high efficiency the work of their drainage system.

To competently make drainage around the house, cottage or cottage, watch the video presented here:

Drainage system device

If you want to understand how to drain around your home, then read this article carefully. So, before you make drainage around the house, you will need to make high-quality waterproofing of the foundation of your house, it will not be difficult for you to do it yourself. The foundation of the house should be prepared, for this you will need to perform a number of works:

  • First of all, we need to open the foundation in order to waterproof it. The dug earth does not need to be taken away anywhere, because after you make the waterproofing with your own hands, the foundation will need to be filled up again and tamped well.
  • The width of the trench should be approximately half a meter to one meter.
  • As soon as you open the foundation, it will need to be cleared of the earth, and if there is old waterproofing on it, then it will also need to be disposed of.
  • The cleaned foundation must be thoroughly dried, it is better if this happens naturally, otherwise many begin to make a fire for this purpose, include gas-burners and the like, thinking it's the best option.

Now the cleaned and dried foundation can be waterproofed, there are several options here, you can overlay it with rolled geotextile, cover bituminous mastic, lay roofing material, in the latter case, you will need to build a pressure wall of brick.

In addition, you can resort to sprayed waterproofing, although it will need to be reinforced with geotextiles. Which option is better to do is up to you. As soon as the waterproofing of the foundation with your own hands is completed, you can safely proceed with the installation of drainage pipes.

  • First stage. First you will need to dig a moat yourself, it will install drainage pipes, which are necessary to create quality device drainage system in the area around the house. The ditch must be dug so that it is located at a distance of 1 m from the foundation and slightly below it. The width of the ditch should be such that a perforated polymer pipe with a diameter of one hundred and ten millimeters can be laid in it. On each side of the laid pipe, there should be an empty space of at least ten centimeters, this is necessary in order for the backfilling of the pipe with soil to be of high quality.
  • Second phase. The bottom of the trench dug with your own hands will need to be leveled with sand. The layer of sand should be about five to ten centimeters, and the excavated ditch must certainly have a slope of at least 2 cm per 1 running meter (linear meter).
  • Third stage. by the most the best option it is believed that this is when the drainage system around the house will be made using geotextiles. On top of the created sand cushion it will be necessary to lay the rolled geotextile, and its ends should be well fixed on the walls of the trench.
  • Fourth stage. On top of the laid layer of geotextile, it will be necessary to pour gravel, the thickness of its layer should reach about ten to fifteen centimeters.
  • Fifth stage. At this stage of the drainage system, it is possible to proceed with the installation of drainage pipes, their installation is carried out with a slope towards the well made.
  • Sixth stage. The laid drainage pipes are covered with gravel, the layer of which should reach from ten to fifteen centimeters.
  • Seventh stage. Now we cover everything with rolled geotextile, and fasten its ends.
  • Eighth stage. The water intake will need to be installed on the last drainage pipe, it should be diverted from the housing by about five meters, no less.
  • Ninth stage. At the water intake, you need to close the walls and bottom with geotextiles, then install a reservoir in it, preferably plastic. At the bottom plastic tank holes need to be made. To install a plastic tank, it is not required to involve special equipment, which significantly saves money on the cost of installing a site drainage system.
  • Tenth stage. The installed tank will need to be fixed by itself so that later, under the influence of heaving forces, it cannot rise outward, then the entire structure must be covered with gravel, and soil is already poured over the gravel.

To better understand how to drain a site, watch the video:

Types of drainage systems

Based on the characteristics of the flooding of the site, the future drainage system around the house can be of several types, their choice depends on the characteristics of the soil.

  • Surface drainage

Surface type drainage. The main advantage that surface drainage around the house has is that its arrangement with your own hands can be done even after most of the work on the site has been done.

It is very simple to make surface drainage around the house on the site yourself, for this you just need to read the instructions for arranging a drainage system for draining water from the site. In order to make the best surface drainage of the site, you will need to draw a detailed diagram, and rely on it during work.

  • Point drainage

Drainage point type. This type of drainage system for a private house is necessary for the rapid removal of water that appears from local sources (this can be water from watering taps, from a roof drain, and so on). Do-it-yourself spot drainage around the house will need to be closed with metal grates, so it will be possible to prevent the formation of blockages in the spot drainage channels with fallen leaves and debris.

When installing a point drainage system, it will be necessary to draw drainage pipes from each point made in such a way that they can be connected to the main main pipe, which is directed to the place of the drainage well.

Unlike surface drainage around the house, spot drainage is a more complex device, so it takes more time and cost to do all the work on arranging spot drainage. But then such a drainage system of the site will effectively fulfill its direct role for a very long time. In addition, point drainage can drain a large number water from the site.

  • Linear drainage

Drainage linear type. It must be said that this type of drainage system around a private house is designed to drain melt and storm water from the site. A glass of water at the device linear drainage is carried out in channels dug in the ground and then discharged into a well. Channels are best done in a rectilinear shape.

In order to prevent clogging, the linear drainage channels will need to be covered with a grate. It should be noted that linear drainage can be performed independently only if the project provides for detailed schemes for its arrangement. In addition, the linear drainage device requires adherence to the installation instructions, only in this case it can be guaranteed that the drainage of the site will be performed correctly.

  • open drainage

Drainage open type. This type it’s easy to arrange a drainage system for a private house or a summer house with your own hands - a trench is dug through which melt or storm water will be drained.

Such open drainage around your house you can organize very quickly and inexpensively, this is perhaps the biggest plus that speaks in his favor, but from the minuses of linear drainage it can be said that the device of this type of drainage system of the site can greatly spoil appearance territory adjacent to a private house. And the point here is in the very device of the open drainage of the site with your own hands.

First of all, when open drainage is done, then around a private house and on all sides of your land plot you will need to dig a trench with your own hands, the depth of which should be about fifty to sixty centimeters, and the width is five hundred centimeters (half a meter). All dug trenches will need to be brought to a common drainage ditch.

In order for the water flow to pass unhindered, it will be necessary to make a small bevel from the side of the private house, its angle should be thirty degrees, and due to the slope towards the water intake ditch, the water will flow by gravity in the required direction.

If open drainage will have to carry out the removal of a large volume of water, then for its construction it will be necessary to dig a deep drainage trench, and it will not only spoil the appearance of the territory, but will also be dangerous, because you can fall into it. In addition, the walls of the trench will collapse all the time.

However, there is still one way that can improve safety and extend the service life of open drainage for a private house - this is the installation of concrete or plastic trays, they are covered with bars on top. In this case, the open drainage will be protected from collapses of the walls of the moat, and the gratings will provide you with security, especially at night.

In the photo you can see what the open drainage of the site looks like with your own hands.

  • deep drainage

Drainage deep type. In order to be able to efficiently drain a large amount of groundwater, you need to make an impressive do-it-yourself drainage system around the house, for example, create a deep drainage, which will effectively perform drainage work. This type of drainage system for a private house is used in clay areas that are in a lowland and have a fairly high level of groundwater content.

It must be said right away that it will not be so easy to make deep drainage around the house yourself, because here you will have to lay perforated drainage pipes into dug trenches. The diameter of the drainage pipes for draining groundwater will directly depend on how much water will be drained, and the depth of the trenches will need to be done based on the height of the groundwater.

In the photo you can see what deep drainage looks like on the site.

The photo shows how to do deep drainage on the site.

A photo: detailed diagram, which shows in detail how deep drainage is done on the site.

  • Closed drainage

Drainage closed type. Unlike deep drainage, closed site drainage is more aesthetically pleasing. Here, the receiving trench is arranged with their own hands much narrower and smaller. If you want to make the best indoor drainage with your own hands, you will need to perform a series of work according to the instructions, which can be found on the net. During the work on the installation of the drainage system, many nuances should be taken into account, which will subsequently affect how closed drainage works on the site.

  • Backfill drainage

Backfill type drainage. It should be noted that backfill drainage of the site is arranged with a small area where it is not possible to make open drainage or deep drainage of the site with your own hands. You can make the best indoor drainage of the site yourself in several stages:

  • First, you will need to dig a trench to a depth of about one meter, while observing the slope in the direction of the drainage well.
  • At the bottom of a trench dug with your own hands, geotextiles should be laid.
  • Next, the trench will need to be filled up, crushed stone, gravel and the like can be used as a backfill.
  • A layer of turf is placed on top, although this is not necessary, you can leave everything like that, just a laid layer of turf will give your area around a private house an aesthetic appeal.

In the photo you can see backfill drainage on the site.

Despite the seeming simplicity of backfill drainage, such work should be approached responsibly.

Necessary tools and materials

For the device on our site of the best drainage system around the house, cottage or cottage, we need to buy the following tools and materials:

  • Hacksaw for metal.
  • Rammer.
  • Shovel.
  • Point for transporting sand and gravel
  • Level.
  • Rail.
  • Plastic rotary wells.
  • Fittings and couplings.
  • Drainage pipes of the required diameter.
  • Well-washed river sand.
  • Geotextile.
  • Gravel or crushed stone (washed).

You can buy all these tools and materials on the market.

How to make drainage with your own hands: instructions with video

Today, many owners of private houses sooner or later become very interested in the question of how to properly drain around the house or cottage. It is impossible to answer such a question in a few words, therefore, below will be step-by-step instructions for carrying out work related to the installation of closed drainage around a private house.

  • First of all, you will need to find the most the best place so that you can make yourself a closed drainage next to a private house. It must be said right away that closed drainage can be performed independently in several ways: to be located throughout the site or just next to the foundation. If the closed drainage is located next to the foundation, then it will not allow water to penetrate into a private house, cellar, bathhouse, basement. In the case when it is located on the site, it will provide reliable protection green spaces, basement of the house and existing buildings.

The photo shows a diagram of a closed drainage device around a private house.

  • Next, markup should be carried out on the site, where the drainage trenches will be located. Marking can be done using a laser rangefinder. If this is not at hand, then you can resort to more easy way- after the rain, you will need to see where the water grooves stand the longest, and that is why you need to dig drainage trenches.

The photo shows drainage trench, which must be done for the device of a closed drainage system.

  • When digging a trench, you need to adhere to the difference in height, because the stack of water must be directed to a drainage well made by yourself, and if the difference in height is not respected, then water will accumulate in the pipes.
  • Lay rolled geotextile, it will act as a water filter from various impurities, and if they are not removed, then they will clog the perforation of the laid drainage pipe in the area.

Photo: closed drainage - geotextile laying.

Important: if on your site around a private house or cottage the soil is clayey, then the use of geotextiles is mandatory, and if the soil is sandy, then it can be omitted.

  • At the bottom of the dug trench, you need to pour a layer of gravel. Carefully lay a perforated plastic or ceramic pipe, it will be the basis of your drainage system. Important: drainage pipes must be perforated, if not, then perforate yourself. Between themselves, the pipes must be connected using a special tee or cross. The perforation of the drainage pipe for the device of closed drainage should be made smaller than the size of the gravel particles.

Photo: closed drainage - installation of a perforated pipe.

  • The ends of the pipe will need to be brought into the inspection wells themselves, they are located at all turns to provide access to the drainage system when cleaning or repair work needs to be carried out.
  • Further, the pipes are led to a drainage well.

In the photo you can see a viewing and drainage well.

  • The pipes are covered with rubble, the layer height is not less than three hundred millimeters.
  • Further, the drainage pipes covered with crushed stone are wrapped with previously laid geotextiles.

The photo shows how to wrap pipes when creating a drainage system in the area around the house.

  • From above, everything is covered with soil or sand, you can also put turf.

A photo: ready system drainage in the area.

In order to create the best drainage system, watch the video presented here with useful tips and recommendations

Drainage pipes for groundwater

To provide the foundation with reliable protection from groundwater, it will be necessary to responsibly approach the choice of pipes. And what type of drainage pipes is best suited will directly depend on the soil on the site:

  • The soil is gravel. In this case, it is better to buy drainage pipes with perforation, in which there will be no additional filter layer.
  • The soil is sandy. In this case, you will need to buy drainage pipes with an additional layer of geotextile filtration.
  • The soil is clayey. Several types of pipes can be used here: drainage pipes with a filter layer and pipes without a filter layer. The filter layer must be made of coconut fibre.
  • The soil is loamy. Suitable pipes with a filter layer made of geotextiles.

In the photo you can see a perforated drainage pipe, which is most often used to install a drainage system on the site.

This photo shows a perforated drainage pipe with a layer of geotextile.

In the photo you can see a two-layer drainage pipe.

To better understand how pipes are installed when creating a drainage system, you can watch a video that shows how such work is done.

site drainage cost

The price of a surface drainage device around a private house is greatly affected by the cost of the materials used, their delivery to the site and the complex of works. The price of a turnkey drainage system will be significantly higher than if you did such work yourself.

However, if you yourself cannot determine the type of soil and find the right slope, then in this case it is best to entrust such work to professionals. Let their services cost you more, but the drainage system they have equipped with proper care will function well for more than a dozen years. Below you can find a table that shows approximate cost drainage system around a private house.

  1. In order for a do-it-yourself device for discharging melt and rainwater to function for a long time and with high quality, it is recommended to include sand traps in the scheme for creating drainage around the house. These are devices that provide protection against small debris. Such a drainage system will work effectively for many years.
  2. Drainage surface systems need to be properly designed, assembled and properly maintained.
  3. So that the walls of self-dug trenches do not crumble, they must be made at an angle of about twenty-five to thirty-five degrees.
  4. In order for the drainage system around a private house to work efficiently at any time of the year, it is best to entrust such work to specialists from the very beginning. They competently perform all work, from the creation of a project and scheme for the installation of a drainage system, and ending with its installation on the site.
  5. If you want the drainage system for removing water from the site to do its job as efficiently as possible, then give your choice in favor of a deep drainage device around the house.

The work on the manufacture of this type of drainage is quite laborious, because it is required to select a large amount of soil and then fill it with rubble and sand in its place.

To properly make drainage around the house, you should start making it with markings. To do this, the perimeter is measured and a rope or construction cord is pulled along its edges. After that, you can start to soil sampling. Since insulated slab foundation is a shallow-buried structure, the depth of soil sampling should not exceed 0.5 meters. As a rule, only the fertile soil layer is removed. Further, to the bottom of the pit geotextile is being laid and wrap around its edges. After that, they start backfilling and tamping. sand cushion. It is necessary to compact the sand using a mechanical vibrator. After a layer of sand, it is poured into the pit, leveled and rammed rubble.

Simultaneously with the laying of crushed stone, along the perimeter of the pit, drainage pipe with the required bias. Manholes are installed at the corners of the future foundation, which are necessary for servicing the system. The slope of the drainage pipe must be at least two degrees.

As a result, it should turn out that the drainage pipe is inside the rubble layer. If necessary, pipes can additionally be laid in several more places, this will enhance the protection of the foundation from moisture.

A receiving well is installed at the outlet of the pipes of the drainage system. This completes the work with the drainage system and you can proceed to and further work for the construction of the foundation.

The main mistakes in the manufacture of drainage

To properly drain the foundation, you need to know the main mistakes made during its construction.

The most common mistake during the construction of the drainage system, it is combining it with water coming from the roof of the building. This cannot be done for the simple reason that autumn period, with a large amount of precipitation, the drainage system may not be able to cope with the removal of a large amount of water and start working in reverse mode.

This will certainly affect soil moisture and it will turn out that all work on drainage and drainage of the site will be in vain.

Second common problem, This failure to comply with the required drainage slope. As a result, blockages constantly occur in the system, and it cannot function normally.

Third, this use of drainage pipes without additional filter winding, which also affects the timing of clogging of the system.

Conclusion

Self-production of a drainage system is beneficial only in the case of deep annular drainage, manufactured along the outer perimeter of an already finished one, since work on its implementation does not require the use of special equipment.
In the case of reservoir drainage, all work is much more complicated and requires certain skills from the master, as well as the availability special tools such as level and vibrator.

Useful video

How to lay the groundwater drainage system and the drainage system drain water roofs:

In contact with

When in country house there are recessed parts of the building, they need to be protected from flooding resulting from precipitation, runoff, rising groundwater levels, so you need to know how to make drainage around the house with your own hands. The drainage system involves the installation of wall or trench drainage.

Types of foundation drainage

wall drainage

Such drainage around the foundation is constructed if there are basement and basements. It is advisable to start laying wall drainage during the construction of the foundation, when the original pit has not yet been backfilled. Otherwise, you will have to dig it out again, which leads to additional labor costs and financial investments.

If the house has rectangular shape, the near-foundation drainage is carried out around its base, at the corners the drains are brought to the manholes, and in the deep place- to the pumping one, which diverts effluents outside the site. At a distance of 0.5-1 m from the walls of the house is placed clay castle, it provides additional protection foundation from moisture.

Trench or ring drainage

Unlike wall drainage, trench drainage is laid 1.5-3 m away from the foundation. It is suitable when the site is located on clay and loamy soils, and if the house does not have basements, plinths and technical undergrounds. A layer of clay is laid between the drainage and the foundation in order to protect the base of the house from flooding.

Trench drainage device

Drainage for a trench-type foundation involves laying special pipes into the soil, which is why it is not easy to build and requires serious labor. Consider in detail the work on its device:

  1. First, the foundation is prepared. laser level measurements of height differences are carried out with the placement of landmarks in right points. The measurement of differences is carried out with jewelry accuracy. According to the resulting indicators, carefully pouring sand, the necessary slope of the drainage pipeline is organized. This procedure ensures that water is drained by gravity into a drainage well or receiving ditch, which should be located at some distance from the house.

  1. The bottom of the resulting trench is covered with a geotextile sheet, clean gravel is poured on it, while the selected slope is observed. A small recess breaks out in the thickness of the gravel, intended for laying a perforated drainage pipe.

Pro tip:

The perforated pipe used in the installation of trench drainage can be quickly made from ordinary sewer polymer pipe(e.g. PVC pipe). Just drill holes in its walls. But make sure that the diameter of the holes is smaller sizes gravel in which the pipe is laid.

  1. The pipes are laid, securely connected, the slope is checked. The slope value should be about 2 cm per linear meter. The uniformity of the slope is checked elementarily: using a rope or cord stretched along the pipeline.
  2. Each turn of the drain pipe is provided with a built-in vertical pipe, top part which is tightly closed with a lid. This pipe is necessary to clear the resulting blockages. The blind area around the house and the drainage should be the same height. All pipes are scrupulously, without the formation of gaps, wrapped in geotextile, which is fixed with twine or polypropylene tape.
  3. To increase the cleaning surface of the drainage, its upper part is covered with washed gravel, a layer of 20 cm. Then the backfill is wrapped with a geotextile cloth with a generous overlap. On top of the resulting system, the final backfill is carried out with a large river sand. It is a non-rocky soil and is a drainage filter with excellent throughput.

Drainage well

At the junction of the drainage pipes, a prefabricated one is installed. Perfect for this reinforced concrete rings, but you can cast the walls of the well yourself, using a reinforcing mesh and cement mortar. At the point of intersection of the axes of the pipes, the soil is selected, which is needed for the foundation. The top of the well is closed with a hatch from durable material(for example, cast iron). Before implementation backfill the outlet of the sewer must be insulated; for this purpose, foam plastic with a thickness of at least 25 cm is used.

The drainage system around the house, in principle, is not a difficult construction task. Fulfilling following conditions, You will be satisfied with the result:

  • purchase required amount building materials- this is possible when carrying out accurate preliminary measurements and measurements;
  • at all stages of construction, strict observance of the slope.

Let's make a reservation right away, drainage and waterproofing are different concepts and one of them does not exclude the other. Drainage around the house (drainage system) allows you to remove or reduce the level of water in the area.

The danger lies both from the outside (precipitation, flood waters) and from the inside (groundwater). Waterproofing protects the foundation of the building from water ingress.

But, even a foundation that is qualitatively isolated from water will not protect the foundation of a private house (basement) and the basement from water ingress for a long time. After all, if the water will push constantly, it will find weak spots in waterproofing. And vice versa, if you take it away in time, your house or cottage will be safe.

When is a drainage system needed?

  • site location. The lower it is, the more urgent problem drainage;
  • soil quality - on clay and loamy soils, the water level decreases slowly;
  • rainfall in your area;
  • groundwater level;
  • deepening of other buildings on the site. If the adjacent building has a heavily buried foundation, the water will have nowhere to go, and it will accumulate on the surface, increasing the risk of flooding;
  • the presence of waterproof coatings - concrete walkways, asphalted yard - these are places inaccessible to water penetration.

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house will eliminate the problems caused by the factors listed above.

Types of drainage systems

Depending on the severity of the problem of flooding the site, there are several ways to make drainage around a private house.

Surface drainage

This type can be storm sewer(rainfall). The advantage of such drainage is that its arrangement is simpler and accessible after most types of work on the site have been completed. Surface drainage systems allow you to divert only rain and melt water, cope with ground water they are unable to.

There are two kinds surface device drainage: linear and point.

Linear drainage

It is focused on the removal of storm or melt water from the entire site and from the house, in particular. Water flows into channels dug in the ground and is discharged into a drainage well. As a rule, the channels have a straight linear shape and are closed with gratings.

Point drainage

Designed for quick drainage of water generated from local sources (eg under roof gutters, watering taps, etc.). Point drains are covered with decorative metal bars to prevent clogging of the channel with debris and leaves. From each point, drainage pipes are laid, which are connected to the main main pipe leading to the drainage well.

Combined drainage combines the two systems mentioned above: point and line drainage.

According to the method of the device, the drainage can be open and closed.

open drainage

A system of trenches, gutters, drains or catchment trays.

Such a drainage is a trench, which is designed to drain storm and melt water from the house and from the site.

The principle of the open drainage system

A ditch up to half a meter wide and 50-60 cm deep is dug along all sides of the site and around the house. All these trenches are connected to a common drainage trench.

In order for the water to flow freely into the trench from the side of the house in the ditch, a bevel is made at an angle of 30 °, and the slope towards the main water intake trench (or drain well) will allow gravity to divert water in the right direction.

plus open system drainage can be called low cost and high speed performance of work. But, if you need to drain a large amount of melt and rainwater, then you will have to arrange a deep drainage line into which someone can fall. The unfinished walls of the ditches are collapsing. Such a system spoils the appearance of the site.

It is possible to increase the service life and increase the safety of such a system through the use of special trays (made of plastic or concrete), which are closed with bars from above.

Closed drainage

It has a more aesthetic appearance compared to the previous one, as it is equipped with protective grille, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and shallower. Their views are shown in the photo.

Backfill drainage - a system of backfilled trenches

It is used in the case when the area of ​​​​the site is small, and it is impossible or impractical to make open drainage. The disadvantage of this system is the inability to carry out maintenance of the trench after the arrangement without dismantling.

Proper drainage around this type of house is arranged in several stages.

  • a trench is dug to a depth of about a meter with the obligatory observance of a slope towards the drain (drainage) well;
  • geotextile is laid at the bottom of the trench;
  • the trench is covered with gravel, crushed stone, etc.;
  • a layer of turf is laid on top. This stage is optional, but allows you to give the site a more aesthetic appearance.

deep drainage

The removal of a large amount of groundwater requires the construction of a solid system - deep drainage of the site. The device of a deep drainage system is used in areas with clay soil located in a lowland and characterized by high level ground water.

The device process is laborious and consists in laying pipes (the diameter depends on the amount of water removed) from perforations into deep trenches (depending on the height of the soil water).

Closed drainage - pipe system

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Step-by-step instructions for a closed-type drainage device

  • Determine the location of the closed drainage system, which can be implemented in two versions:
  1. pass only near the foundation, i.e. around the house (wall drainage), preventing the penetration of water directly into the house.
  2. located throughout the site, thus the basement of the cottage, as well as plantings and other outbuildings, will be protected.

The drainage scheme around the house is shown in the photo

  • Outline the location drainage ditches Location on. Usually, devices such as a laser rangefinder and a level are used for this. But, you can make it easier to trace where the grooves of water remain after the rain - drainage trenches should be laid there.
  • Dig trenches. When digging, be sure to observe the height difference. After all, water should flow to the drainage well, and not accumulate in the pipes.

Advice. To check the "workability" of the trench, it is better to wait heavy rain and see if there are areas of significant water accumulation.

  • Lay a layer of geotextile. Its role in drainage is to filter the water of impurities that can clog the perforation of the drainage pipe.

Advice. If you have clay soil - geofabric is required, if crushed stone or sand, then it is not necessary.

You can take any geotextile, the main thing is that it passes and filters water well. It is better not to take dense needle-punched geotextiles, because. it does not pass water well.

  • Fill the bottom (bottom) of the trench with gravel.

Lay a perforated pipe - the basis of the drainage system. Pipes can be ceramic or plastic. But in any kind of pipes there must be perforation for receiving water (perforation can be done independently, using a drill). The pipes are connected to each other by means of a cross or a tee. The material was prepared for the site www.site

Advice. The pipe perforation should be smaller than the size of the smallest particle of gravel.

  • Bring the ends of the pipe into the manholes. Such wells are installed at all turns in order to be able to take care of the system. For example, clean the pipe with water pressure or evaluate the change in water level.

Advice. Collecting pipes over a large area of ​​the site must converge in main pipe(more than 100 mm in diameter), which will carry the collected water to the drainage well.

Bring the ends of the pipe into the drainage well. This is the last ingredient closed system drainage.

According to their functional purpose, drainage wells are divided into two types:

  1. accumulating. This well has a sealed bottom. Water accumulates in it and is then used for irrigation;
  2. absorbing. A well without a bottom, the water in it gradually sinks into the soil.
  • Fill the geofabric with crushed stone without reaching the top level of the ground 200mm.
  • Cover drainage pipes with crushed stone to a height of 300mm.
  • Wrap the pipes with overlapping geotextile and fix the joints with a rope.
  • Fill in sand, earth and/or lay sod.

Advice. A surface drain can be installed on top of a closed system ( storm system) and also bring it to the drainage well.

The finished drainage system in the section is shown in the photo

Conclusion

Which of the listed types of drainage is right for you can be determined only by knowing the features of the site. In general, you should choose the drainage around the house, the cost of the arrangement and operation of which is the lowest, and of course, which you can do yourself. At the same time, it must qualitatively and reliably perform the role of a drainage system. Indeed, according to experts, proper drainage around the house will extend its life by more than 50 years.

Flooding of the site with soil and melt waters can be a real disaster for its owner. Precipitation can also contribute to the violation of the soil structure. It is especially bad for the owners of land consisting mainly of clay or loam, since clay greatly retains water, hardly passing it through itself. In these cases, the only salvation may be a properly constructed drainage. For such soil, it has its own characteristics. Therefore, consider how to make the drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils.

Plants suffer from an excess of moisture in the first place. Their roots do not receive the amount of oxygen necessary for development. The result is deplorable - the plants wither at first, and then completely disappear. Moreover, this also applies to cultivated plants, and to lawn grasses. Even in cases where the clay is covered from above with a layer fertile soil, water withdrawal will be difficult.

The comfort of work on the site is also important, because in the absence of a drain, even a little rain can turn clay soil into a swamp. It will be impossible to work on such land for several days.

When the water does not leave for a long time, there is a risk of flooding the foundation and freezing it when cold weather sets in. Even more good waterproofing sometimes it is not able to protect the foundation from destruction, since it itself can be destroyed by frozen moisture.

We conclude: drainage of the site from groundwater is simply necessary. And if it has not been done yet, then you should not postpone its construction.

Preparation for the construction of the drainage system

Before choosing the type of drainage system, you should analyze your site.

Attention is drawn to the following points:

  • Soil structure. In our case, clay is considered, which is not able to quickly pass water;
  • Source of high moisture. This may be frequent precipitation or groundwater lying close to the surface;
  • The type of drainage is selected or several types are combined;
  • A plan is drawn up for the location of drainage trenches, revision and catchment wells. The plan indicates the depth of the drains, the dimensions of all elements of the system, their slope relative to the soil surface. The plan will allow you to quickly find the location of all elements of the system.

After such preparation, they begin to build the drainage of the site with their own hands on clay soils. Consider what kind of drainage happens, and which one better fit in relation to the clay area.

Types of drainage systems

Drainage on clay area can be surface, deep or reservoir. Sometimes it is advisable to combine several of these types to achieve the greatest drainage efficiency.

Surface drainage

If the site has even a slight natural slope, this creates additional advantages for surface drainage. Water flows by itself through the channels laid on the site to the designated place. Such channels are located on the surface of the soil, slightly deepening them into the ground. Surface drainage a plot on clay soils can be laid on almost any level ground: along paths, around buildings, along the perimeter of lawns, near recreation areas and in other places.

Reservoir drainage

This type of drainage is created even before the construction of the foundation begins. The soil deepens below its location by at least 20 cm. The soil layer is also removed wider than the place where the foundation passes. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the pit with a layer of 20 cm, and drainage pipes are located around the perimeter. All moisture penetrating under the foundation is collected in pipes, from where it is discharged through separately laid pipelines to the drainage wells.

Tip: The depth of the reservoir drainage should exceed the depth of the clay soil. In this case, drainage will be most effective.

This type of drainage is quite laborious, therefore it is used less often, although for clay soils he is useful.

Maintenance of the drainage system consists only in cleaning it and pumping water from the collector well. If everything is done correctly, then no clay on the site can overshadow your mood and destroy the plants you grow.

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