Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: scheme and depth of laying sewer pipes for draining water. At what depth should the sewer exit from the house be located Sewer exit from the house

From this article you can learn how to create a sewer in a private house with your own hands: a diagram on the basis of which the construction of a waste system is carried out, its phased production with useful tips and recommendations from specialists, information about laying a pipeline and related procedures. An overview of popular types of sewage, their features, specificity for suburban areas and prices for them.

Unlike city apartments, not every private or country house has all communication systems. Therefore, the owners of such housing are forced to carry out their laying on their own in order to provide elementary conditions of comfort. If the organization of this system, along with water supply, was originally included in the design of the building, then there should not be any problems with their construction. It is much more difficult if you have to include a sewerage system in a private house that is already ready.

The simplest option for implementing such an idea would be a project in which the sink and shower are installed inside the building, and the toilet is located outside of it on the street. In this case, you can do without complex work for laying the pipeline, as well as installation treatment facilities. This scheme involves the removal of the sewer from the house and its supply to the sewer pit.

The second option is more difficult, since the toilet, shower and sink in this case are located inside the building. If incorrect calculations are made or the system construction technology is violated, there is a risk of contamination of the site and water located nearby with waste. In such situations, a septic tank is indispensable.

Helpful advice! Experts recommend placing toilets, bathrooms and kitchens nearby. Due to this, it is possible to organize a single collector, thanks to which the waste liquid will be sent to sewer or septic.

How to choose a sewerage scheme for a private one-story house

To choose the right sewerage system and the scheme for its creation, you need to consider the following factors:

whether the house serves for permanent or temporary residence;
groundwater level;
the number of people living in the house on a permanent basis;
daily water consumption, taking into account the needs of residents and household appliances such as a dishwasher or washing machine;
climatic conditions;
the area of the suburban area to determine the available areas for the installation of a cleaning system;
type of soil and features of its structure;
normative instructions SNIP.

Conditionally existing sewage systems can be divided into two categories: storage and purification. More detailed classification will allow you to select the appropriate operating conditions type of system, since even the same type of circuits can have significant differences.

A pit latrine is most often used for sites with a house used for temporary residence, for example, only a week a month. It does not consume a large number of water. An important condition is the laying of the groundwater level no higher than 1 m from the bottom of the pit. Otherwise, water pollution by sewage is inevitable. This type sewer system rarely used in modern construction.

Storage tanks are used for the construction of sewers in a private house with a high level of groundwater. Since the tank is sealed, there is no risk of soil contamination with waste. However, this system has drawbacks. Firstly, the additional costs associated with the need to call a sewage machine for periodic pumping of wastewater. Secondly, the scheme will have to provide a place for the entry of this equipment to the site and its placement.

Types of sewers in a private house with their own hands: photos and features of septic tanks

Single-chamber septic tanks are the simplest soil purification systems. Their principle of operation is in many ways similar to cesspools. The scheme is suitable if ground water do not run high. If the house is used for permanent residence and there is an active use of water, then it is not recommended to use the scheme of a single-chamber septic tank for the construction of a sewerage system.

Two-chamber septic tanks are also dependent on the groundwater level. It is desirable that they lie at least 1 m below the day of the system.

Helpful advice! In order for the sewerage in the form of a two-chamber septic tank to function normally, it is recommended to change the sand and gravel that was used during construction every 5 years.

Septic tanks with biological filters are considered the best sewage systems in a private house where people live on a permanent basis. For waste processing, special microorganisms are used, which result in there are no restrictions on such sewage, only a connection to the electrical network is required.

A septic tank with a filtration field performs two cleaning methods at once - soil and biological. The tank is divided into two sections. The installation of such a sewer is possible only if the groundwater runs at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m. Construction will require a significant amount free space. Moreover, to neighboring buildings, as well as to the nearest sources of water, there should not be less than 30 m.

Aerotanks or systems with forced air supply are very expensive, but due to their advantages, they justify the money spent. Such structures are not limited in terms of installation, however, they require a power source and the constant presence of people. The minimum sewerage price for a private house with installation in this case is approximately $4,000.

How to make a sewer in a private house on your own

The construction of any communications should be carried out according to a previously developed and approved project. Such a project usually has a scheme for creating internal and external sewerage wiring in a private house with your own hands.

The internal system includes:

risers;
highways;
connection zones plumbing fixtures.

Plumbing fixtures include items such as a non-tray shower stall, bathtub, sink, and toilet. The internal system ends with an outlet pipe. This element located at the level of the foundation part of the building.

When arranging an external sewage system in a country house with your own hands, the diagram of this section of the system must have an external pipeline that provides drainage from the building, as well as storage or treatment equipment. When the project is ready and approved, it is possible to determine the optimal diameter and size of the pipes, as well as the amount of material required for the job. At the same stage, a sewer collector is selected.

Helpful advice! During the construction process, it is better to rely on the requirements of regulatory documents. SNIPs will help determine how to properly sewer in a private house, as well as eliminate errors in the design process.

Choosing a place for installing a septic tank for sewerage of a country house with your own hands

When arranging sewerage, the choice of a place for installing a septic tank is extremely important. Its placement is influenced by the following factors:

depth of groundwater;
relief features of the site (since the movement of water within the system is carried out by gravity, the slope of the territory should be taken into account);
soil freezing level winter time;
placement of sources of drinking water;
soil structure.

Sandy soils have a loose structure. Due to this, the liquid can easily pass through the soil, so there is a possibility of contamination of groundwater with waste.

When installing a septic structure, it is important to adhere to certain requirements:

The distance from the residential building is at least 5 m.
Distance from the source of drinking water (well) - 30 m.
Distance from green spaces - at least 3 m.

In addition, it will be necessary to equip an area for the arrival of sewage equipment.

Arrangement of internal sewerage for a private house: how to properly organize work

On the diagram internal sewerage in a private house with your own hands, you need to mark all points of the system. First, the installation of the central riser is carried out. The optimum pipe diameter is 110 mm. In order for gases to leave the room without hindrance, a riser should be installed so that it top part was displayed in the attic or protruded above the level of the roof of the building. The central riser should be located at a distance of at least 4 m from the windows of the building.

Next, a horizontal pipeline is laid. The installation of inspection hatches will allow you to monitor the state of the system and perform its cleaning in a timely manner. These elements must be placed at the lowest point of the sewer and above the toilet.

For each plumbing fixture, it is necessary to provide for the presence of a siphon with a water seal. This will prevent the entry of unpleasant odors into the room. In the process of laying sewers in a private house with your own hands, it is recommended to avoid turns at an angle of 90 °. These elements complicate the movement of effluents.

The pipe coming from the toilet is connected directly to the system. To do this, it is better to use a pipe with minimum diameter in 100 mm. For the bathtub and sink, you can take a smaller pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. The line should be placed at an angle that will ensure the movement of fluid. In the foundation, you also need to make a blank for a hole to bring the system out. A non-return valve must be installed on this pipe, which will prevent sewage from entering back into the system.

Helpful advice! If 90° turns cannot be avoided, the pipe bend area can be made from two 45° corners.

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation technique in a private house: preparation for installation of a septic tank

The design is a two-chamber collector, the sections of which are articulated with each other using an overflow pipe. To begin with, a pit is pulled out with a depth of 3 m of the required volume, taking into account the number of permanent residents in the house. It can be formed manually or using special equipment (excavator). At the bottom, it is necessary to organize a sand cushion up to 15 cm thick.

Then a formwork structure is formed on the basis of chipboard or boards. It must be reinforced with a reinforcing belt, which is made of metal rods. Bandaging is carried out using steel wire. After that, you need to make two holes in the formwork and install pipe trims in them. Thus, the entry zones of the system main and the overflow pipe connecting the sections will be obtained.

The formwork structure is concreted. To distribute the solution evenly, you need to use a vibrating tool. The septic tank must be monolithic, so it is poured once.

Related article:

Overview of available waste treatment options household waste. The principle of operation of various sewer devices.

Installation instructions for external sewerage: arrangement of a two-chamber septic tank

The bottom of the first compartment must be formed by pouring concrete. The result should be a sealed section that will be used as a sump. Here, the separation of solid large fractions will take place, which will settle at the bottom. Clarified partially purified water will accumulate from above. Due to the connecting pipe, it will fall into the adjacent compartment.

Helpful advice! The use of aerobic bacteria will enhance the decomposition of solid particles.

There is no need to organize the bottom in the second compartment. The section is made on the basis monolithic walls. Suitable and stacked one on top of the other. The recommended diameter size is 1-1.5 m. A thick cushion of sedimentary rocks is formed at the bottom of the compartment, which acts as a filter for drains. For these purposes, pebbles, crushed stone, gravel are suitable.

An overflow pipe is installed between the two compartments. Tilt angle 30 mm each running meter. This pipe is placed at the level of the upper third. Most often the owners summer cottages when installing sewers in a private house, a two-section design is used, although it is possible to equip a septic tank even with 4 compartments, which will provide the best level of cleaning.

Overlapping for a septic tank can also be made by hand. For this, formwork and concrete are used. Alternatively, reinforced concrete slabs can be used. It is obligatory to install an inspection hatch that allows you to control the exhaust and filling of sections. Then the pit must be covered with soil or sand. The sump should be cleaned every 2-3 years.

Organization of sewerage wiring for a private house: how to properly lay a pipeline

From the area where the sewer pipe leaves the foundation and to the septic tank, you need to lay a highway. The pipeline should be located under a slope, due to which the flow of waste water will be ensured. The larger the diameter of the pipes used, the smaller the angle of inclination will be required for the full operation of the line. The average is 2°.

In the diagram, the depth of laying the sewer in a private house with your own hands should be below the freezing level of the soil in winter. The average is 1 m. In warm regions, there is no need for large pipe penetration, 0.7 m will be enough. If the house is located in a cold region, the depth indicator should be increased to 1.5 m. pillow, tamping it well. This procedure will allow you to securely fix the pipes and prevent the destruction of the line during seasonal soil mixing.

The most optimal for a summer cottage will be a scheme for laying a direct highway from the house to the collector. If necessary, you can rotate. In this place, you can install a manhole. Pipes made of cast iron or plastic, designed for external sewage, are suitable for work. The recommended diameter is 110 mm. All joints must be sealed. The trench with the laid pipeline is first filled with sand and then with soil.

Helpful advice! If the trenches for the installation of the pipeline are shallow, the line must be additionally insulated using thermal insulation materials.

Features of the construction of country sewage without pumping

Systems that do not require pumping, as a rule, are represented by designs of two- or three-chamber septic tanks operating simultaneously. If the system has two tanks, at least ¾ of the structure is allocated to the sump, for three-chamber - half. In the first section, heavy fractions settle. As it fills, the liquid overflows into the second compartment, where light particles are separated. In the third section, water is fully purified from wastewater and supplied to drainage well or filter fields. It is important that the two containers are airtight.

This type of system also needs to be pumped out, but not as often as with a conventional septic tank. This is done with a drain or fecal pump for sewerage, the price of which depends on the manufacturer and capacity and varies between 2700-25000 rubles. This equipment is used to remove sediment that accumulates in the sump.

The frequency of the procedure is affected by the composition of the wastewater and the size of the tank. The structure must be cleaned when the height of the silt reaches the level of the overflow. For six months, about 60-90 liters of sediment accumulate in the tank. Based on this data and the volume of the container, you can approximately find out how much time between cleanings.

To find out the required volume of a septic tank without pumping out, you should multiply the daily rate of water consumption per person (200 l) by the number of residents and add another 20% to the result. If the groundwater level is high, at the bottom of the pit it is recommended to perform concrete screed or put a concrete slab for reinforcement.

A recess in the ground breaks out taking into account the size of the septic tank. To this is added a minimum of 20 cm on each side, and even more is better. Pipes are laid on a sand cushion in a similar way with a slope to a depth of 0.7-0.8 m.

Sewerage construction in a private house: installation price

The price of installing a turnkey septic tank is formed taking into account:

features of earthworks, for example, the formation of a pit or a supply trench;
the need to build a system that performs soil post-treatment;
the cost of laying sewers per meter in the ground (depending on the type of pipes and the length of the main, the average price is 35-65 rubles per 1 m);
installation of the necessary equipment;
building needs additional system disposal of treated wastewater, etc.

Most often, if turnkey installation of septic equipment is performed, 2-3 people are involved in the work. Since the installation of the structure is carried out manually, there is no need to use specialized heavy equipment. As a result, the landscape remains untouched, and the owner of the site has a chance to save a lot. It is impossible to do without changes on the site if sewerage is laid from the ground. The price per meter of work performed is included in the total cost of turnkey work.

Helpful advice! To prevent the elements of the system from moving during installation and from floating up, it is recommended to perform the procedure for concreting the body.

If there are soils in the summer cottage that do not have filtering properties, like sand, installation work will increase significantly in price. These soils include loam and clay. To provide normal conditions for the full functioning of the system on the territory, it will be necessary to form a bulk-type filtration field.

The price of sewerage installation in a turnkey private house:

Septic tank model	price, rub.
Tank	from 18700
Cedar	from 79900
Uni-Sep	from 56000
TopBio	from 111700

Do-it-yourself sewerage arrangement in the bath: a step-by-step guide

As in the case of a residential building, the sewerage of a bath includes an internal and external system. Even if the building has a dry steam room, it will be necessary to drain the liquid from the shower. The water collection system depends on how the floors are installed. The sewerage scheme is entered into the bath project at the development stage and is laid at the initial stage of construction even before the floors are equipped.

If installation is to be wooden floors from boards, then the elements can be stacked closely or with small gaps. If the coating is installed tightly, the floors are formed with a slope from one wall to another. Next, you should find the lowest point near the wall and leave a gap in this place, where the gutter will be subsequently installed (also with a slope). At the lowest point of its placement, a connection is made to the sewer outlet pipe.

Important! If the bath sewerage scheme involves the collection of liquid from several rooms, including from the toilet, it is imperative to install a riser with ventilation.

If the wooden flooring will be made with slots, small gaps (5 mm) should be left between the boards. Under the floor is done concrete base with a slope towards the central part of the room. A gutter and a sewer pipe will be installed in this area. Instead of a concrete base, you can lay metal pallets on top of the insulated floor under wooden deck. If the floors are self-leveling or tiled, a water intake ladder is installed at the lower point of the slope, which drains the drains into the pipe.

A step-by-step guide to building a sewer in a bath with your own hands

For mounting sewer pipes it is necessary to form ditches with a slope of 2 cm per 1 m. Their depth is 50-60 cm. A pillow should be made at the bottom of these trenches. To do this, a layer of sand 15 cm thick is poured and carefully compacted. In this case, do not forget about the slope.

Next, the installation of the sewer line is carried out. Polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 100 mm are laid in trenches. Set up if necessary sewer riser. It must be fixed to the wall with clamps. Be sure to organize ventilation. When the system is ready, the flooring is installed using one of the previously discussed methods.

Upon completion of all work, the ladders and gratings provided for by the project are connected to the system at the designated locations. In the area where the water intake is connected to the outlet pipe, it is desirable to install a siphon. It will prevent the penetration of odors from the sewer back into the room. Most often, ladders are equipped with built-in water seals.

On sale you can find gutters made of asbestos cement, plastic or cast iron. It is not recommended to use products made of wood and steel, because. they quickly break down under the influence of moisture. The minimum allowable diameter of the gutter is 5 cm. If the project provides for the presence of a toilet bowl or other sanitary equipment, it is installed and connected. This completes the work on the organization of internal sewage. The external system is carried out in the manner described earlier and may be a septic tank or a drainage well.

Sewerage construction in a private house: ventilation scheme in the bath

Air exchange in the bath can be organized different ways. Each of them has its own characteristics and advantages. After studying the specifics of each method, you can choose the most the best way for a bath.

The first method involves creating a hole for feeding fresh air. It should be placed behind the stove-heater at a height of 0.5 m from the floor level. The exhaust air will be discharged through the opening on the opposite side. It must be placed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor. To increase the movement of air flow at the outlet, you need to install an exhaust fan. All openings are closed with gratings.

Helpful advice! The lower will be placed ventilation hood, the more intense the process of air exchange will be. It is important not to overdo it in this regard with the steam room, otherwise there will be a significant heat leak.

The second method involves placing both holes in the same plane. In this case, the work will affect the wall opposite to the one where the furnace is located. The inlet duct is placed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor level, at a similar distance from the ceiling, it is necessary to perform exhaust hole and install a fan in it. Channels are closed with gratings.

The third method is suitable for floor coverings where the boards are laid with gaps to drain the liquid. The inlet is made at a height of 0.3 m from the floor on the wall behind the stove. In this case, installation of an outlet duct is not required, since the exhaust air will exit through the gaps between the boards.

Do-it-yourself arrangement of autonomous sewage in a private house: videos and recommendations

As a material for the manufacture of autonomous sewers, polypropylene is used, which is characterized by low weight, environmental friendliness, strength and high thermal conductivity. Wastewater treatment is carried out by certain types of bacteria that feed on organic waste. Access to oxygen is a prerequisite for the life of these microorganisms. Price autonomous sewerage in a private house is much higher than the cost of arranging a conventional septic tank.

This is due to the numerous advantages of autonomous type systems:

high level drain cleaning;
unique aeration cleaning system;
no maintenance costs;
no need for additional acquisition of microorganisms;
compact dimensions;
no need to call a sewage truck;
the possibility of installation at a high level of groundwater;
lack of odors;
long service life (up to 50 cm).

How much will it cost to build a sewer in a private house: turnkey price

The possibilities of autonomous sewers Unilos Astra 5 and Topas 5 are considered the most optimal for summer cottages. These structures are reliable, they are able to provide comfortable living and the necessary amenities for residents. country house. These manufacturers offer other equally effective models.

The average price of autonomous sewers Topas:

Name	price, rub.
Topas 4	77310
Topas-S 5	80730
Topas 5	89010
Topas-S 8	98730
Topas-S 9	103050
Topas 8	107750
Topas 15	165510
Topaero 3	212300
Topaero 6	341700
Topaero 7	410300

Note! Features of the autonomous sewage system Astra, Topas, Biotank and other models listed in the tables allow for deep biological cleaning of drains. This figure in some cases reaches 98%. As a result of treatment, wastewater turns into clear water with a small admixture of silt.

The average price of autonomous sewers Unilos:

Name	price, rub.
Astra 3	66300
Astra 4	69700
Astra 5	76670
Astra 8	94350
Astra 10	115950
Scarab 3	190000
Scarab 5	253000
Scarab 8	308800
Scarab 10	573000
Scarab 30	771100

The tables show standard cost systems. The final price for the installation of an autonomous sewage system on a turnkey basis is formed taking into account the prices for laying an external pipeline and other points affecting earthworks and installation work in general.

The average price of autonomous tank type sewers:

Name	price, rub.
Biotank 3	40000
Biotank 4	48500
Biotank 5	56000
Biotank 6	62800
Biotank 8	70150

Tips for installing an autonomous sewer at their summer cottage

As in any other system, it is recommended to install the pipeline at an angle from the house towards the purification tank. Optimal Angle ranges from 2 to 5° per meter. If you do not adhere to this requirement, the full discharge of wastewater by an autonomous sewer for a summer residence will become impossible.

During the laying of the highway, care should be taken to securely fix its elements. To eliminate the risk of pipe deformation and displacement during soil subsidence, the soil at the bottom of the trenches must be carefully compacted. If you fill the bottom with concrete, you get a more reliable fixed base. During the installation of pipes, it is desirable to adhere to a straight path.

Be sure to check the joints for tightness. Liquid clay is usually used for docking. Allowed use specialized funds recommended by the pipe manufacturer. If a line is being installed on the basis of elements with a diameter of 50 mm, the maximum allowable length of the straight sections of the system is 5 m. When using products with a diameter of 100 mm, this figure is 8 m maximum.

Important! The waste storage tank cannot be placed at a distance of less than 10 m from residential buildings.

Do-it-yourself construction of an autonomous sewer in a private house

First selected optimal location to install a waste tank. To do this, you can use the data recommended for the installation of a conventional septic tank, then you can start earthworks. A pit breaks out under the installation of the container. The dimensions of the recess in the ground must correspond to the dimensions of the tank with an allowance of 30 cm on each side.

Technology allows installation biological filter and a septic tank in one pit. Excavation also involve the formation of trenches for laying the pipeline. In this case, a slope of 2 cm must be observed for every 0.1 m of the line. The bottom of the pit is rammed and filled with concrete. After the site is fully dry and hardened, you can install the plastic container. To fix the structure on the base, it is desirable to use cables.

At the next stage, an autonomous sewage system of a country house is assembled and a pipeline is supplied in accordance with a pre-planned scheme. At the same time, the biological filter blocks are filled. For these purposes, an absorbent with a bioactive effect and expanded clay can be used.

After the entire system is installed, the recesses in the soil are filled back. For this, earth and sand are used, it is allowed to use cement-sand mixture. All this is poured in layers and carefully compacted. At the same time, water is poured into the septic tank. The liquid level should be slightly above the top mark of the bulk material. The pipeline is covered with sand and then earth. In this case, there is no need to compact the backfill. The system can be connected only after the sewerage has been checked.

In view of the foregoing, self-assembly of stand-alone equipment is not so difficult. The use of ready-made structures eliminates any inconvenience associated with the removal and treatment of wastewater. By adhering to the manufacturer's instructions, any owner of a summer cottage can install an efficient and trouble-free system with a long service life with their own hands. If another system is being installed, perfect result possible only under the condition correct execution calculations.

Sewerage construction technology in a private house: video instruction

When laying a sewer from the house to a septic tank or storage tank, it is worth adhering to the basic rules regulated by SNiP 2.04.03–85 regarding the level of the pipeline. Therefore, those who do not know how deep to dig a sewer pipe will draw a lot of useful information from our material.

Important: Regulation SNiP 2.04.03–85 is not strictly mandatory, since it has a very streamlined footnote that allows you to vary the level of laying the collector depending on the characteristics of the soil and climatic conditions of a particular region. And as an example, take the already existing working sewer networks in the region.

SNiP, on the other hand, offers only averaged data for laying the collector from the house to the septic tank in maximum and minimum reflection.

So, it is recommended to carry out the installation of the collector, solely based on the previously compiled project documentation. At the same time, when creating a project, it is very important to take into account all communications available on the site, such as water supply, electricity, etc., located in the ground.
It is necessary to draw up a sewerage project on the site, taking into account the possible increase in the load on the collector in the future.

Important: according to SNiP, ideal option A sewerage project is considered to be one that requires a minimum investment of funds and at the same time allows you to create an effective working system.

Factors affecting the level of pipeline laying

Specialists who will be involved in a sewer development project in a private house must take into account several factors that will affect the depth of the pipes. These are:

Climatic conditions of a certain region. That is, it is precisely the area of soil freezing that is taken into account here. Moreover, if the region in which the laying of the pipeline will be carried out is prone to severe frosts in winter, it is better to increase the laying level from that recommended in SNiP by 30% on average.
Way of laying the pipeline (in trays or without them).
The composition of the soil (swampy, sandy, prone to shifts or heaving, etc.).
Type of sewer system (gravity / non-pressure or working with a pump).

Minimum depth according to SNiP for laying pipes

Some mistakenly believe that the deeper the collector is laid in a private house, the more efficient the system will work and the more durable it will be. However, this decision is reckless for several reasons:

Firstly, the cost of arranging sewerage is increasing. And in most cases they will be simply unreasonable.
Secondly, too great a depth of sewer pipes forms the risk of "fatigue" cracks on the collector. That is, the pipes may simply not withstand the pressure of the soil as a result of its heaving after freezing or washing away with seasonal water.
Thirdly, maintenance of the sewage disposal system in a private house will be much more complicated.

In order for the pipeline for draining wastewater to work well in the warm regions of Russia, you can focus on the SNiP regulation, which allows you to lay pipes at a distance of 30 to 50 cm from the ground surface. In this case, the level of laying the collector is completely dependent on the diameter of the pipeline. So, if the pipe cross section is less than 500 mm, then the collector is arranged higher, but if the pipeline cross section exceeds 500 mm, then the laying depth is increased to 50 cm.

Important: in any case, when laying the system in a private house, it is necessary to take into account the slope towards the septic tank at the rate of 1-1.5 cm per meter of communication. This is especially true for non-pressure systems.

Such minimum score The parameters of the trenches are also due to the fact that domestic wastewater, as a rule, is discharged from a private house in a warm form. That is, their temperature most often does not fall below +16 degrees. And this means that the drains themselves will constantly dilute the possible frost on the collector. The main thing is not to let the system idle.

At the same time, despite the minimum parameters for laying a collector in a private house recommended in SNiP, it is worth considering that if increased load on the ground at the location of the pipeline (installation of a concrete pad or traffic, it is necessary to lower the pipes to a depth of at least 90 cm.

Also, if, due to the characteristics of the soil or the climatic characteristics of the site itself, it is impossible to dig trenches to a greater depth, it is necessary to carry out installation at a smaller distance from the surface with pipe insulation. To do this, you can use one of several modern technologies:

Insulation of the collector with expanded clay from all sides as a backfill;
Insulation of the system using fiberglass material;
Insulation of the pipeline with the use of special modern heaters.

Reservoir depth reduction options

You can also use several ways to reduce the parameters of trenches in a private area from the house to the septic tank, if it is not possible to dig them deeper. The main ones are:

The use of a powerful fecal-drainage pump, which will increase the flow rate of wastewater, thereby preventing stagnation and freezing of feces in the system.
The use of pipes with high strength characteristics and wall thickness. It can be cast iron or steel pipes for the sewer system.
Artificial increase in soil thickness over a laid collector in a private house. You can use tricks for this. landscape design in the form of a beautiful hill with flowers, etc.

Max Depth for Collector

If a decision is made to lay the pipeline below the freezing level of the soil, then it should be taken into account that the pressure of the earth on the pipes can play a cruel joke. That is, over time, the pipe can simply burst. As a result, environmental damage will be caused to nature, and financial damage to the owner of the private house system. After all, repairs of the pipeline in the house and outside will have to be carried out.

And yet, in some cases, there is a need for a deep bookmark of the system. In this case, SNiP regulates that for land with a high level of groundwater and for soil with rock inclusions, the collector can be lowered to a level of up to 3-4 meters. If the soil is dry and non-fluffy, then the maximum distance of the collector from the surface of the earth can be 5-8 meters.

Important: if it becomes necessary to increase the maximum recommended level of laying the pipeline, then the collector must already be placed in reinforced concrete trays to prevent soil pressure on the drainage system. In addition, in this case it is better to use durable rigid pipes made of two-layer corrugated PET.

Septic tank locations

If everything is clear with laying a sewer pipeline to a certain depth, then it remains to find out how far down into the ground to install a septic tank in a private house.

Here the answer is simple: the installation of a septic tank near the house should be carried out in accordance with the norms of SNiP to a depth of at least 2 meters from the ground surface. This indicator is an average and can vary upwards depending on the parameters of the trenches for the collector and the characteristics of the soil.

The main rule here is that the septic tank is located below the level of the collector, taking into account the increase in its slope for each meter, regardless of the level of soil freezing.

That is, if at the exit from a private house the height of the pipeline according to SNiP should be 30 cm higher than the depth of freezing of the soil, and the trenches are located at a distance of 50-70 cm from the top, the length of the collector is 7 meters, then the final depth of the inlet pipe for the septic tank should be about 80 cm. It remains to add the height of the septic tank itself from the bottom to the top. Thus, we calculate the parameters of the pit for the septic tank.

Important: when designing the laying of a sewer system in a house, it is better to contact specialists who will not allow you to make common mistakes in installation.

Regardless of whether you connect private house to a central or autonomous sewer, the sewage disposal system on the street must be equipped independently. Before starting this work, it is necessary to develop an installation scheme that allows you to get by with the minimum size of the pipeline and sewer wiring.

This will reduce the cost of purchasing material and increase the efficiency of the wastewater disposal system. Particular attention should be paid to the depth of pipe laying, the angle of their inclination and the reliability of flange connections, since the performance of the sewer depends on these parameters.

Connecting a private house to the sewer

Circumstances and layout of external sewage

The outer part of the sewer system in a private house connects the outlet of the internal drain with a waste storage tank located on the site, or with a central sewer, with a pipeline network. Read about the internal wiring in the house in the article. Laying of external sewer pipes is carried out according to a scheme developed in advance, taking into account the following circumstances:

terrain features;
weather;
remoteness of wells and reservoirs;
the total volume of effluents, depending on the number of people permanently residing in the house;
the depth of soil freezing and its composition;
ways of access of the car of a vacuum truck if necessary.

In the laying plan external sewerage it is imperative to provide for its ventilation, otherwise, over time, unpleasant odors will penetrate into the living quarters. Read about the rules for the sewer ventilation device in the article. Ventilation is equipped with a fan pipe, which can be placed on the lid of the septic tank or on the section of the pipeline that runs from the house to the wastewater storage tank.

Scheme of arrangement of autonomous external sewerage

The septic tank is equipped at the lowest point geological relief site area. This arrangement allows you to most optimally perform the installation of external sewage. It should be laid in a straight line to the location of the outlet pipe of the internal sewage disposal system.

Choosing a drain location

When choosing the location of the drain, it is worth, first of all, to take care that bad smell did not enter the premises. As a result, it should be located no closer than five meters from the house. The optimal distance will be ten meters, it is also not worth placing a septic tank too far, since this significantly increases the cost of performing work on laying the pipeline network. The external sewage connection to the house should not be carried out at a right angle. In addition, the following must be taken into account:

water sources should be located no closer than thirty meters;
a septic tank cannot be installed on the border of a neighboring plot;
for the convenience of pumping out sewage, it is better to place drains near the road;
especially careful sealing of the storage tank is needed when the groundwater is located close;
the laying of the pipeline network facilitates the natural slope of the terrain.

Rules for placing a septic tank on the site

A cesspool for sewerage has been used since ancient times. Previously, they did not waste energy on sealing its walls, and when the pit was filled, it was covered with earth and a new one was dug out. Now the walls are made of bricks, concrete rings and other building materials.

Liquid waste fractions seep through the soil at the bottom, being filtered, solid components gradually fill the mine, and after a while they need to be pumped out.

The arrangement of a cesspool is advisable if the volume of wastewater in a private house does not exceed the value of one cubic meter per day. If this limit is exceeded, pollution will occur. environment.

Instead of a cesspool, you can equip a sealed container for the accumulation of wastewater. In this case, a thorough waterproofing of the bottom and walls of the shaft is performed. Thus, the possibility of contamination of the soil and drinking sources is prevented. The disadvantage of this system is the need for frequent cleaning, since the sealed container fills up rather quickly.

Decide on the type of treatment plant

Treatment facilities for a private house are equipped in the form of a simple cesspool without a bottom or a sealed wastewater tank. To improve the filtration of wastewater allows a single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning or a two-chamber septic tank with a filter well. A variant of the construction of three chambers with a filtration field, as well as with the use of a biofilter and an air supply system is possible.

Tire filtration septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank, in essence, is a cesspool with drainage layer. Crushed stone or gravel mixed with sand is poured at the bottom of the well. Passing through the filter layer, the liquid fractions of the waste are cleaned before entering the soil. After some time, the drainage layer must be replaced, as silt deposits are deposited on it. A single-chamber septic tank is suitable for a private house with a small amount of wastewater.

A two-chamber septic tank consists of a storage tank and a filter well, which are connected by an overflow pipe. In the sump, the faeces are partially clarified, then they fall into the mine with a drainage layer at the bottom. They seep into the soil already sufficiently cleaned.

A two-chamber septic tank is a popular sewerage option for a private house, as it does not require large financial costs for its equipment and works efficiently.

Installing a septic tank of two or more chambers, as well as a filtration field, virtually eliminates the possibility of environmental pollution. Settling in the first tank, the partially clarified effluent through the overflow pipe enters the next chamber with anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic residues. Read about how to make a septic tank with your own hands from improvised materials in the article

Having successively passed through all sections, the effluent enters the filtration field, which is an area underground of about thirty square meters where the final soil cleaning takes place. If available on site free space this way of arranging sewage is optimal.

Diagram of a septic tank with a biofilter

A septic tank with a biofilter is a station for deep sewage treatment. According to the principle of operation, it is similar to a cleaning system with a filtration field, only in this case it is replaced by a water separator and an overflow pipe installed at the outlet of the fourth section anaerobic bacteria, cleaning drains by about ninety-five percent. Such water can be used for technical needs.

It is irrational to install deep cleaning stations in private houses with periodic residence, because if the sewage system of this design is not used constantly, the bacteria that decompose organic residues die. In addition, they are quite expensive.

Sewer pipe laying depth

The depth of soil freezing is a fundamental factor when deepening sewer pipes into the ground. They must be laid below the freezing point, otherwise they will freeze in winter, and it will be impossible to use the sewer until the spring thaw. The appearance of even small ice growths on the internal surfaces of pipelines leads to a decrease in their permeability and the formation of blockages.

Map of normative freezing depths

In the southern regions, the depth of laying sewer pipes is fifty or more centimeters, in the central regions - seventy or more centimeters. You need to know exactly the depth of soil freezing in your area in order not to go deeper into the ground than necessary, since in this case the cost of doing the work will increase.

Organization of the withdrawal of the sewer pipe from the house

The organization of the withdrawal of the sewer pipe from the house depends on the stage of readiness for operation of the building. If the house has just been built, shrinkage of the foundation is possible, therefore, drilling a hole in it for the outlet of the sewer pipe must be noticeably larger in diameter than the cross section of the pipe itself.

Variants of schemes for the withdrawal of sewerage from the house

In the event that the house is just being built, the outlet pipe can be walled up during the laying of the foundation. The foundation of a house built several years ago will no longer settle, so the diameter of the hole drilled for the outlet pipe does not need to be increased. Plumbing fixtures should be located at a short distance from the common drain, since in this case it is easier to connect them to a common outlet. If the house has two or more floors, the bathrooms should be placed one above the other, in which case one riser can be dispensed with.

Do-it-yourself installation of external sewage in a private house

The external sewage system consists of a cleaning tank and a piping system connecting the septic tank to the house. Before execution installation work on the site plan, an external sewerage scheme is applied.

Practical options for removing sewers from the house

Then special pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm are selected, intended for outdoor use. Usually they have Orange color. A trench is dug to lay the pipeline. Its depth is selected depending on the climatic features of the area, the composition and characteristics of the soil, as well as other factors. If necessary, the pipeline network is insulated.

The most time-consuming part of the work when installing a sewer with your own hands in a private house is digging a pit for a cesspool or septic tank. Optimal distance, to which the septic tank is removed from the house, is about ten meters.

The volume of the storage capacity directly depends on the number of people permanently residing in the house and the frequency of their use of plumbing fixtures.

Connect the storage tank to the outlet of the internal sewer runoff best in a straight line, bends and turns in the piping system increase the likelihood of clogging. For the convenience of cleaning, a long line in places of change of direction must be equipped with inspection hatches.
This is what a properly equipped external sewer looks like

Wastewater moves through the pipeline system by gravity, under the influence of gravitational forces, so you need to maintain the correct angle of inclination. If it is too small, large fragments of waste will be retained and the sewer will become clogged.

If the slope is too great, solid fractions will be thrown to the walls of the pipe, and again it will become clogged. Information on the correct sewer slope can be found in the article.

The desired angle is maintained and controlled building level when digging a trench, its depth increases as it approaches the storage tank or central sewer. A shock-absorbing cushion is laid at the bottom of the ditch, which is a sand mound, pipes are laid directly on it. If it is necessary to change the slope of the pipes, sand is poured in the right place.

Important operating parameter sewer system is the depth of laying the pipeline network. It must necessarily be below the freezing point of the soil in the region. Otherwise, in winter, frozen sewage can break the pipeline network and disable the sewer. To carry out repairs will have to wait for the spring thaw.

How to properly equip pipe insulation

To prevent the occurrence of emergencies in the cold season, it is better to perform thermal insulation of the sewer. Many have good thermal insulation properties. modern materials e.g. polyurethane foam, fiberglass or mineral wool. You can properly equip the thermal insulation of the pipe by simply wrapping it with insulation and placing it in a sheath made of a mixture of asbestos and cement.

Options for insulation of external sewerage

Can also be fixed over thermal insulation polyethylene film. In cold northern regions to protect sewer pipes from freezing, the insulation layer is additionally equipped with an electric heating system. In any case, the pipeline network must be laid below the freezing depth of the soil, especially if snowdrifts melt in the spring on the surface. An interesting experience in laying outdoor sewer pipes can be gleaned from the following video.

The arrangement of sewerage in a private house begins with a layout and a laying scheme. This allows you to most conveniently arrange all plumbing, make the right slope, accurately calculate all consumables.

As a result, the system will work smoothly, and in the event of a breakdown or clogging of one of the elements, everything can be quickly and easily repaired. In this article, we will tell you how to properly draw up internal and external (external) sewerage schemes for a private house or country house, what is the optimal depth for laying sewer pipes and what consumables should be used when constructing and installing an autonomous system with your own hands in the house and outside.

Charting starts from a distant plumbing fixture in the attic or top floor. All horizontal lines must be reduced to one riser. To save money and consumables, bathrooms on different tiers are placed one vertically.

Sewerage in the house consists of:

Water seals that prevent odors from entering the room;
Drainage from all plumbing;
Pipes leading drains to the external sewer;
Elbows and tees connecting pipes into a single system;
Clamps in the walls that support the pipes and give them direction and angle.
Central stand.

It is important that the house does not have a transition from a larger sewer diameter to a smaller one. Therefore, in the diagram, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the riser.

Accurate drawing of the internal system depends on the number of storeys of the building, the presence of a basement, the number of plumbing used and the number of users. The depth of the septic tank and the binding to additional equipment (pumping station or separately for each device).

On the diagram All items must be displayed to scale. so that in the event of a scheduled repair or emergency It was possible to quickly sort out the wiring and find a breakdown.

outer line

External sewerage starts from the pipeline from the foundation. Effluent is diverted to a septic tank, cesspool or filter facility. At each turn of the pipe, revisions are installed (adapters with covers, with which you can quickly clear the blockage). Outside there is also an inspection well and a ventilation hood.

Ventilation is removed from the riser through fan pipe. Due to strong foreign odors, it cannot be mounted near windows, with access to the courtyard or near smokers. Categorically it must not be connected to a conventional ventilation shaft. Instead of an umbrella, you can use a special vacuum valve at the top of the riser (not to be confused with a check valve!).

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of tanks

The final element of the system is a storage and cleaning tank. In the absence of a central collector for the intake of drains, autonomous installations are used.

Cesspool. It is easy to organize on the site and is the cheapest option. Nose large volumes She can't handle the stock. There is a possibility of dirt getting into the groundwater and an unpleasant smell.
A do-it-yourself septic tank made of concrete-filled bricks or pre-cast concrete poles c. It performs its functions well, durable and strong. The disadvantages include long time installation and significant construction costs.
Industrial offline installation . Such a septic tank is more expensive, but the costs are covered by the speed of construction, High Quality and long-term operation of the equipment.
Station biological treatment . The most expensive option, requiring constant electricity. Distinguished by the most a high degree cleaning and great performance.

Consumables, calculation and prices

Be sure to determine the volume of the septic tank. The calculation is carried out taking into account that 200 liters of water per day is used for each inhabitant of the house. Drains in the septic tank settle for 3 days. Based on these data, we obtain the exact size of the sewage tank.

So, a family of 4 people consumes 800 liters. In three days, 2400 liters are accumulated. Means, it is necessary to select a septic tank of just such a volume. If desired, you can make a small margin in case of a maximum load of the tank. Septic tanks with such parameters cost from 20 thousand rubles.

Main armature:

Crosses for connecting 4 sections at an angle (80-100 rubles).
Tees with a 45 or 90 degree flank.
Elbow for connecting pipes with a height difference (450 rubles / pc.).
Straight double-sided coupling with rubber cuffs in sockets (from 30 rubles).
Revision (60 rubles)
reductions of different parameters (from 40 rubles / piece)
Hood umbrella (from 50 rubles)

Before you begin to equip the sewer system, you must carefully read the basic requirements put forward to it. As we will tell in a special review.

Water can be not only useful, but also harmful to the human body. What filter coarse cleaning better fit to give, find out from this.

Optimum inclination and depth of laying during construction

According to the recommendations of SNiP for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, a stable 3 cm is made for each meter of laying. With a cross section of 100 mm, this value can be reduced to 2 cm. In order to avoid clogging and “fatting” of the sewer in the kitchen, it is advisable to increase the slope by 0.5-1 cm for each meter of wiring.

When mounted on land plot maintain the same angle of inclination. A sleeve (a pipe of larger diameter than the main pipeline, protruding 15 cm from each end) is installed in a hole made in the foundation. It provides a transition to the external sewer, and located 30 cm above the freezing level of the soil.

Burying pipes below the freezing level (on average it is 1.6 m) is unprofitable- you will have to make a very deep septic tank. Subject to a constant slope, it will be 4-5 m, where groundwater may already appear. The cost is increased by additional concrete rings and stronger (corrugated) pipes that can withstand both the pressure of the drain and the weight of the soil.

The drain temperature is usually above room temperature, which prevents freezing, and if desired, thermal insulation or heating cable insulation can be used.

Selection of pipes and diameters

Pipes are used to drain waste from plumbing fixtures diameter 5 cm. The pipe from the toilet should have a cross section of 10-11 cm, which will help avoid blockages.

Pipes can be used to organize a sewer system in a private house. cast iron, reinforced concrete or plastic. The latter are more acceptable due to their strength, durability, corrosion resistance and smooth surface.

Outdoor (PVC)

Designed for outdoor networks. They are distinguished by their characteristic orange or yellow-brown color. Despite being relatively cheap, these pipes have sufficient strength, which allows their use both for external and concealed installation . For them, a connection by cold welding is recommended. All turns are made using fittings and bends.

Internal (polypropylene)

For internal communications, they are light gray in color and have different technical parameters depending on the manufacturer and model. Their common features:

Single or multilayer.
The foam is protected by an aluminum coating and a polymer layer.
The connection is carried out by welding or using special fittings.

Rules for the device and laying of an external system

Briefly instructions on how to properly make a local autonomous system sewers in a private country house(in the country) with their own hands, looks like this:

Mechanical or manual excavation of a trench.
Formation of a sand cushion.
Layout of all constituent elements (pipeline, trays, fittings).
Connection of fragments, starting from the exit from the internal sewerage. For greater reliability attachment points are treated with silicone sealant.
Testing the tightness of connections at maximum load.
Fill the trench, trying to compact the sand or soil only on the sides of the pipe, avoiding a sharp load at a right angle. The thickness of the sand bed at least 15 cm.

For pipeline turns, fittings for external engineering networks are used. If the distance from the foundation to the septic tank is more than 10-12 m, it makes sense to equip the site with an intermediate revision well.

This video shows how to properly make a sewer for a private house, as well as how to lay pipes yourself:

How to properly sewer in a private house, do everything according to the scheme yourself and lay pipes for the system without errors? Installation of the sewer system will be better if follow a few guidelines:

When installing a sewer it is important to consider every nuance: the placement of plumbing, the relief of the site, the location of the intake manifold or septic tank, the depth of pipe laying and the angle of inclination.

Only with careful scheming, careful planning and order installing a sewerage system in a private house or in a country house with your own hands can guarantee that the system will not freeze in the middle of winter and will drain well without creating additional problems in the house and on the site.

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