How to fill the stairs with your own hands. Reinforced monolithic stairs made of concrete. Formwork for concrete stairs

The staircase is one of essential elements in the House. It must be reliable, safe, have a good appearance and have accurate dimensions for ease of use. That is why a concrete staircase with your own hands must be made in compliance with all installation and safety standards, and at the same time it needs correct calculations and design solutions, to give the design beauty and strength.

First of all, it is worth noting that this type of construction is considered one of the safest and most reliable. They do not burn, are not exposed to moisture, are among the strongest spans and durable, and can also withstand heavy loads.

At the same time, it is worth noting that a do-it-yourself tree can give it not only additional reinforcement, but also a stunning appearance, and if you use forged elements and natural stone, then the whole design can become a real work of art.

Reinforced concrete stairs– a beautiful and practical architectural element

Project

Calculations are always the basis of any construction and repair, since it is on the basis of them that all work is carried out, which allows you to create accurate designs. high strength(read also the article: we implement a non-template approach).

However, when creating concrete stairs with your own hands, it is necessary to pay increased attention to this stage, since not only the appearance and ease of use, but sometimes the health of the residents of the house depend on it.

First of all, you need to decide what will be the width of the stairs. It is worth noting that for this there are certain parameters that can not always satisfy the needs of residents. Therefore, the width of the span should be determined, guided by personal preferences.
Also, a guide that tells how to make a concrete staircase with your own hands suggests doing the height of the steps. However, it is also necessary to take into account the layer of coating or skin, if any.

Special attention is paid to the angle of inclination. The fact is that when you create a concrete staircase to the second floor with your own hands, you should be guided by saving space and at the same time do not forget about the convenience of lifting. That is why the angle of inclination is made no more than 45 degrees and not less than 25 degrees.
At the same moment, the projection of the flight of stairs on the floor of the first floor at an angle of 45 should not exceed 3 meters, and at an angle of 25 its length can reach 6.3 meters. This optimal parameters, which are designed in such a way that a do-it-yourself concrete staircase made of concrete would not only be durable and comfortable, but also take up little space.
Also, in the manufacture of the project, attention should be paid to the railings.. It is necessary to take care of the method of their installation and dimensions. This element just needed for safe operation And at the same time, it can become a magnificent element of decor.
Since concrete stairs are made along with the stage of erecting walls and installing floors, the project for their manufacture must be tied to the drawings of the house and the building plan. Otherwise, there is a possibility of a discrepancy between the dimensions of the product and the volume of the room and the impossibility of making a reliable binding.

Many instructions on how to decorate a concrete staircase with wood with your own hands are advised to take into account the thickness of the sheathing material and its fasteners when creating a project. If this is not done, as a result, the product will have completely different dimensions from those that were originally conceived.

Advice! Stairs are standard designs, which means that to create them you can use finished projects. This will save time and eliminate different kind calculations.

formwork

The purpose of this design is to hold the concrete at a certain height and in the appropriate volume, preventing leakage. That is why the installation instructions recommend using moisture-resistant plywood or board to create formwork. At the same time, you need to assemble the structure quite rigidly and firmly, which will work better when using self-tapping screws.

The finished formwork must be free of gaps, cracks or other defects. In its manufacture, it must be remembered that the structure itself will have significant weight, and the finish concrete stairs will add extra pounds to her with her own hands. Therefore, in advance you need to take care of installing strong supports under the span itself or making them from cement mortar.

Advice! Some masters put a layer of film on the bottom of the formwork, which is an excellent insulator and prevents the outflow of liquid from the form.

Reinforcement

This process is interconnected with the erection of walls and the installation of a concrete belt between floors. The fact is that do-it-yourself facing of a concrete staircase with a tree usually joins with other elements of the interior, and the dressing of metal reinforcement should be connected to load-bearing structures. This moment should also be reflected in the project in order to take into account all the features of its organization.

It is believed that to create flights of stairs from concrete, reinforcement follows, which is interconnected by welding. Unlike the foundation, this product must have strong frame, which means that hand knitting should be reduced to a minimum. This increases the price of the entire structure, but at this stage it is not worth saving.

Advice! In order to accurately maintain the distance from the bottom of the formwork to the reinforcement, special supports can be used. They will help to properly distribute the metal in the cavity and save the performer from extra costs time.

fill

Many instructions on how to sheathe a concrete staircase with wood with your own hands advise you to prepare fastening strips or wooden bars before pouring concrete so that they can be embedded in the structure if the installation method requires it.

This is usually done in order to immediately create footprints or install soft material for ease of fastening wood. If this is not done, then you will have to drill holes in the hardened concrete, weakening the span.

Also, before pouring, you must immediately install the railing supports.

This is done in accordance with the installation instructions, depending on the type of material chosen.

Further production of concrete stairs with your own hands involves the work of pouring the formwork.
To save money and make it easier this process it can be combined with the installation of ceilings or with the organization of a reinforcing belt between floors. As a result, you can get an almost monolithic structure, which will significantly strengthen it.

When pouring, it is necessary to compact the solution in the formwork using improvised means or a special vibrator.
Also at this moment, the surface is leveled and fasteners are installed so that the subsequent sheathing of the concrete stairs with wood can be carried out without weakening the finished product.
Next, you need to cover the span with a film until completely dry.
It is recommended to disassemble the formwork only after a few weeks, so that the concrete can gain strength.

Advice! To speed up the drying process, pieces of rags soaked in ammonia solution can be placed under the film.

The concrete staircase is deservedly considered the most durable, reliable and durable structure in comparison with all existing analogues. Concrete steps are not afraid of the effects of dampness and fire. On such a ladder, you can safely transport almost any heavy load. At the same time, with the arrangement concrete steps you can do it yourself without any problems. Read the manual, related information and get started.

A concrete staircase can be built simultaneously with the house, while arranging wooden and metal structures possible only after the completion of the main construction activities. This allows you to further save on construction and home improvement.
Concrete structures are characterized by very high strength indicators, which remain even after many years of active operation of the facility.
Concrete stairs can be finished with almost any finishing material.
You do not need to spend a lot of money on the arrangement of stairs made of concrete.
Concrete is not afraid of corrosion and fire.
Monolithic construction can further increase the strength of the house.

What do you need to know before getting started?

Before starting construction, you need to select the materials of the highest quality and suitable for the planned event. Try not to save too much on materials - the durability and reliability of the finished structure directly depends on their quality.

Do not rush to start using the stairs after pouring the steps. Concrete gains strength within 3-5 weeks. Only after this time can the formwork be dismantled. If you hurry, the material can simply crack and collapse.

Plan in advance where your staircase will eventually lead, how the doors will open, whether the structure will interfere with the entrance to the room.

Choose the staircase design that is best for your case. The stairs in question can be ordinary marching and spiral. Screw structures have an attractive appearance and are universally popular and loved. On condition proper arrangement such a design will look very beautiful and not massive.

There is no particular difference in the construction of an ordinary staircase and its spiral analogue. The principles and procedures are the same. You just have to put in more effort at the design stage and during the design planning process - the calculations for a spiral staircase are quite complex.

The formwork will also have a slightly modified design. In particular, you will have to use additional supports in the form of large metal sheets.

That is why in this manual instructions for the construction of a simple concrete staircase will be presented. Having gained experience, you will be able to independently create projects for a wide variety of stairs and translate them into reality.

Before you start building, create a drawing, or at least a simple sketch of the stairs. Make a drawing to scale indicating the distances between the steps - so you can determine the required number of elements.

Traditionally, the height of the steps is 17-19 cm. At the same time, be sure to take into account the thickness of the finishing material - using too high steps is not only inconvenient, but also dangerous.

Pick up optimal width steps. It is important that they are neither too wide nor too narrow. Steps that are too wide will take up too much space, while narrow ones will simply be inconvenient to use. Standard Width flight of stairs is 80-90 cm.

A concrete staircase must be equipped with a reliable and safe fence, especially if children and the elderly live in the house.

Set for arranging stairs

Pre-prepare everything you need for the construction of stairs with your own hands. You will need the following:

sheets of moisture resistant plywood;
metal bars;
boards and bars;
concrete;
trowel for leveling concrete. You can make it yourself from sheet steel;
grater for additional leveling of concrete. It can also be made by hand from wooden block or polystyrene;
special device for smoothing the edges of concrete structures.

Stair building guide

Self-construction of a concrete staircase is carried out in several stages. Follow each step of the guide in sequence, and you will get a reliable, durable and completely safe design for your use.

The first stage - formwork

The erection of stairs begins with the installation of a rigid, as strong as possible and correct formwork in all respects. For the construction of this structure, use boards and high-quality wooden beam. Make the bottom of the formwork from moisture-resistant plywood. Such plywood does not get wet, therefore, it will not let the solution through.

Plywood FSF - plywood with increased moisture resistance

Cut the details for fixing the formwork to the walls. Then prepare the formwork for stairs. Use boards with a thickness of 30-35 mm. The thicker the boards, the stronger the structure will be. Lastly, prepare the end elements of the formwork.

The reinforced concrete structure will have an impressive weight, this must be taken into account when assembling the formwork. For additional increase stiffness of the structure, fix the transverse bars.

Assemble the formwork elements so that they are joined as tightly as possible. Slots are unacceptable - concrete will gradually seep through them, which will lead to a significant decrease in the strength of the stairs.

The second stage - reinforcement

Lay reinforcement bars along and across the formwork of future steps. At the joints, tie the reinforcement with steel wire. Reinforcement will contribute to the overall increase in the strength of the stairs.

The third stage - installation of traffic jams

Install wooden corks at the points of future placement of railing posts. Instead of corks, you can use metal plates.

The fourth stage - backfilling

Backfill the bottom of the step formwork with a 10 cm layer of gravel. Tamp the backfill.

Fifth stage - pouring concrete

Pour the concrete into the formwork. Carefully align platforms and steps with the help of specially designed devices.

Give concrete 1-1.5 months to set strength. After this time, you can begin to carefully dismantle the formwork. After pouring, regularly wet the concrete with water, otherwise it may crack.

Staircase finishing options

At the end, you will have to complete finishing concrete steps and install railings. For finishing, you can use almost any existing facing materials.

Stone and ceramics

For facing concrete steps, you can use natural and fake diamond, as well as ceramic tiles. It is important that the material has a rough surface - a glossy finish is too slippery.

For laying cladding elements, use cement mortar or special tile adhesive.

Before starting the cladding, carefully level the surface of the stairs to perfect condition. Repair chips, cracks and other defects cement mortar.

The length of one cladding element may not be enough to cover the entire step. In this case, cut the tile so that it is laid symmetrically on all steps.

Wooden panels

Ideal for concrete stairs various panels from wood. The main thing is that the material is of the highest quality and resistant to abrasion. The best option is larch and various durable exotic species.

Before starting all wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic.

Laminate

A great option for finishing concrete stairs. It is characterized by high resistance to abrasion, durability and ease of installation.

carpet

Great for homes with children and seniors. The material does not slip. Thanks to him, the steps will always remain warm. A huge selection of carpet in a wide variety of colors is available for sale, so with a choice suitable finish you definitely won't have any problems.

Painting

In the absence of sufficient budget, the steps can simply be painted. The main thing is that the paint is of the highest quality.

Mosaic

It is laid on the same principle as ceramic tiles. Elements have small size, which allows you to create the most original and unusual compositions.

fences

As for fences, in this regard, be guided solely by your personal preferences. Railings can be very diverse - from carved to forged. Install fences in accordance with the features of the selected option.

Thus, you can independently build and ennoble a reliable, durable and most durable concrete staircase. There is nothing particularly complicated in this event - just follow the instructions, remember the recommendations received, and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Also read the article on our website - finishing the stairs with a laminate with your own hands.

Video - Do-it-yourself concrete stairs

It is not difficult to make a porch out of concrete with your own hands. But first you need to think through all the details so that when you enter the house, you do not stumble on uncomfortable steps, and the structure itself serves you. long years. The concrete porch is very popular among the owners of private houses, as it does not rust or rot. The materials are inexpensive, and you can assemble the formwork and pour concrete into it on your own. In addition, manufacturers offer the most different types finishes, so no one will know what your porch is built from.

Step Instruction
Helpful Tips
Overview of finishing materials

Step-by-step installation technology

It's always hard to start. Questions about the shape, finish, number of steps and other things will immediately arise in your head. good drawing and miscalculation of all materials will simplify the work itself.

First, walking should be comfortable and safe. Therefore, equip a small area in front of the door, it should be 50 mm lower than the door. Build the stairs at an angle of 25 to 45 degrees. The recommended step height is 200, and the width is at least 300 mm, these are the stairs that are made in high-rise buildings. If the steps are higher, children and the elderly will not be able to easily enter you. The porch itself should not be narrower than 0.8 m, this place is enough for one person to walk freely on it.

2. Foundation.

The question of whether to build a foundation for a concrete porch or not does not have a definite answer. It all depends on the design itself and the type of soil. If you need a regular staircase with 3-5 steps with small playground in front of the door, and your house is located on good ground, do deep foundation not necessary. But if you have already drawn a drawing of a huge staircase with a canopy, and the house stands on clay soil, you will have to pour concrete on a reliable foundation. Since it would take a whole book to consider all the options, in this instruction we will analyze how to make a concrete porch with a small foundation.

Clear the site of debris and plants. Dig a hole at least 300mm deep. We recommend isolating future design polystyrene foam or other material that does not allow steam and moisture to pass through, which is formed in the soil. This will not only add strength, but also increase the life of the finish.

If you decide to completely fill the future porch with concrete, fill the hole with a layer of crushed stone 50 and a layer of sand 100 mm soaked in water. To reduce the consumption of materials for a medium-sized structure, you can not do complete concreting of the entire space; for this, add sand to the height of the upper platform and stairs, tamping it well.

To build a solid large porch on unstable ground, you need to build at least columnar foundation, the Internet has detailed instructions how to make and pour concrete pillars. Otherwise, the system will be unreliable.

Another question that can only be answered by knowing all the characteristics. It is better to tie the porch to a new private house that did not have time to settle, ideally, pour the foundation and the platform with the stairs at the same time. The problem of binding to an already settled house is resolved on an individual basis, since due to the uneven shrinkage rate in conditions of unstable soil, there is a high probability of rapid cracking. The design of the formwork will depend on what decision you have made.

3. Formwork.

For the side and bottom faces of the formwork, plywood reinforced with timber, or durable boards no thicker than 20 mm, are suitable. If the wood is dry, wet it, and plan the areas that will touch the concrete. The formwork should be 200–300 mm higher than the future porch, depending on the strength of the soil. Use self-tapping screws and corners to fasten parts. Make sure there are no gaps. Strengthen the system by making strong props.

First, the side formwork is installed, it should be at a distance of 100 mm from the wall if you decide not to connect the porch and the house. A roofing felt is attached to this space and a layer of sealant is applied. Then boards are mounted to outline the contour of future steps. After that, the formwork is lubricated from the inside with a special mixture to facilitate the disassembly of the structure.

4. Reinforcement.

We recommend using ribbed reinforcement. The elements are interconnected with a soft wire or welded. To make the porch become one with the house, drill small holes in the adjoining wall and insert the ends of the reinforcement there.

The distance between reinforcement layers is 150 mm, and the step in any direction is 150–200. Additionally, it is necessary to outline the contours of each step. Minimum distance up to formwork 40 – 50 mm.

5. Preparation of concrete mix.

If you decide to buy ready-made concrete, grades M150‒M200 are suitable. To save money, you will have to dilute the mixture yourself. It is better to take a household concrete mixer from someone, as the material instantly solidifies if it is not in motion.

To make concrete, you need:

cement M400–M500;
crushed stone 10–35 mm in size;
sand with particles 1.2 – 5 mm;
water.

Table of proportions for the preparation of concrete mix:

The proportion of water can vary from 0.5 to 1 part, depending on the materials. Do not overdo it, otherwise the concrete will lose strength.

For concreting to be successful, it is important to follow the technology from start to finish. Exist special additives to improve properties. If you are not using a vibratory compactor, add plasticizers to make the job easier.

6. Concreting.

To properly pour the porch, start concreting from the bottom steps of the stairs. After pouring each step, spread the concrete evenly over the formwork using a stick or vibratory compactor.

7. Demoulding.

Since the concrete will reach its stated strength in 28 days, it is ideal to wait a week after you have poured the structure. If time is running out, leave the mixture for at least 2-3 days.

1. If it is very hot during work, water the concrete every day to prevent cracks.

2. When concreting, it is convenient to use a vibrocompactor. This procedure will give the structure strength, and it will be easier for you to evenly distribute the mixture.

3. Some builders suggest using crushed bricks to save money, broken glass, stones and other debris instead of sand and gravel. If you want to build a porch that falls apart after the first winter, give it a try.

4. It is more convenient for a person to start and end the climb with one foot, so make an odd number of steps.

5. It is better to pour concrete in clear weather, a suitable temperature is +20 degrees.

6. The surface of the steps is equipped with a slope of 5 mm so that water flows freely from them.

7. If you decide to make a semicircular porch, it is convenient to assemble the formwork for degrees from thin plywood, galvanized.

Finish options

The advantage of a porch made of concrete is wide choose finishing materials. Economical craftsmen make drawings immediately after concreting using templates or lay out patterns from pebbles, this is inexpensive, but requires attention and patience. There are other options.

Granite and marble cladding. Looks great and holds up well. Another thing is that a small private house against the backdrop of this splendor can be lost.
Clinker tiles. Sturdy, non-slip, looks very presentable.
Porcelain tile. The quality is not inferior to clinker, but it is cheaper.
Concrete and paving slabs. An inexpensive option, but it gradually crumbles, and slips made by vibrocasting.
Wood. Not always reliable, but harmoniously looks with a wooden house.

You can combine several options to create a home-friendly and affordable porch. For example, tree and concrete tiles or granite and ceramic tiles. Important to choose reliable material so that its beauty will please you for a long time.

Concrete stairs are the most durable and reliable. They have a number of undeniable advantages over other types of products.

strength;
durability;
fire resistance;
noiselessness;
individual design;
a wide range of finishes;
variety of forms.

Also, concrete is not afraid of moisture, and steel reinforcement, which is the basis of the design, is reliably protected from the negative effects of the environment.

Stairs made of reinforced concrete can be installed both outside and inside the premises. Thanks to them performance and a variety of cladding options, products can become not only a functional unit, but also an exquisite detail of the interior of a cottage, private house or office space.

Types and arrangement of concrete stairs - choose the design

Types of concrete stairs can be divided according to the method of manufacture:

monolithic;
prefabricated (from finished elements).

By design type:

marching;
screw.

Place of installation:

internal;
outdoor.

Before starting the installation of the structure, it is necessary to decide in advance which concrete staircase device is best suited for a particular room.

Monolithic concrete stairs

Monolithic concrete stairs got their name due to the fact that they are made by pouring cement into the prepared formwork in such a way that we get a cast frame at the exit. The product is installed in the place where it will be used.

Finished concrete stairs

External stairs can be made from ready-made reinforced concrete marches. The main thing is that the terrain allows you to install the product with the required slope.

Installation is made from prefabricated elements made in the form of rectangular, angular or triangular steps.

Details are best laid on compacted soil, which is compacted with large gravel. To do this, use a shovel to cut out treads and risers corresponding to the size of the plates. The base of the first step can be compacted with the help of embankments: 5 cm of sand, then 5 cm of crushed stone. Basis for concrete slab high-quality cement mortar should act, 2-3 centimeters thick.

Concrete spiral staircase

The most popular today, due to its convenience and compactness, are spiral staircases made of concrete. They are especially relevant in cases where a small private house is being designed, where every detail needs to be carefully thought out in order to save living space.

Thanks to unusual design, spiral concrete stairs will perfectly fit into almost any interior. And do not require the installation of a special central column.

Most often they are installed in rooms where the design provides for the presence of solid monolithic structures that combine not only reliability, but also a spectacular appearance.

Railing for concrete stairs
Usually made of steel or solid wood. Connoisseurs of elegance and style sometimes choose metal fences with high-strength glass elements.

Concrete flight stairs

In turn, concrete marching ladder also has a number of undeniable advantages. It has an excellent overview and is easier to manufacture. It is certainly installed in homes where the elderly or children live, because it is certainly safer. The only drawback is that such a product takes up much more space.

Outdoor concrete stairs

In the process of creating an external concrete staircase, you can use standard models or create your own, individual form. In any case, it is necessary to pay special attention to the quality of the material, because outdoor products are subjected to maximum loads. Therefore, when making an approximate calculation, add a certain “reserve” amount that may be required for a better solution.

Making a concrete staircase with your own hands - instructions for use

Reinforced concrete stairs are installed during the construction of the building, unlike products from other materials, which are installed after the main work. As a result, you can navigate through them at all stages of building a house, which greatly facilitates the completion and decoration of the premises.

Of course, the construction process must be given special attention, because the manufacture of concrete stairs with your own hands is a rather laborious process, which, with a lack of experience, can turn into a problem and entail serious financial costs.

The technology includes many nuances that must be taken into account during operation, because even a slight deviation from the norm can cause problems.

First of all, you need to do everything necessary calculations to clearly define what step height will not cause inconvenience when climbing. The thickness is also taken into account. floor coverings, which will subsequently be increased due to the sheathing of the steps.

Assembling the formwork for a concrete staircase

To make the structure even and beautiful, a rigid and durable formwork for a concrete staircase is created to cast the structure. Most often, to avoid leakage of cement, waterproof plywood is used, to which planed boards are closely fitted.

A reinforcement frame is necessarily knitted into the formwork, which will later become the “skeleton” of the stairs and will keep the product from destruction. The frame consists of metal rods welded together.

This applies to all types of products, regardless of whether we are engaged in the manufacture of concrete spiral staircases or the creation of a marching structure.

Steel bars are laid along the trunks of the flight of stairs and bearing edges, which are securely fastened together by transverse ties.

Before pouring the mortar in the appropriate places, it is necessary to install wooden plugs or metal plates, to which, subsequently, railings will be attached.

After a long and laborious process assembling the frame and formwork, it may seem that the work is almost finished, but everything is actually not so. Remains the most important hard work- pouring concrete stairs .

The concreting of the flight of stairs should be done at a time, and it is necessary to start from the lowest steps. In order for the structure not to be too mobile, and the mortar not to flow out of the formwork before it has dried, crushed stone (fraction 10-20 mm) must be added to it.

A very important process is the compaction of concrete, because if this business is not completed, the strength of the product will be seriously affected. For this job, it is best to use an electric building compactor. If there is none, use improvised means.

Grade of concrete used for pouring monolithic construction, must be at least B15.

Use the stairs only after the concrete is completely dry.

Video: do-it-yourself concrete staircase

Facing a concrete staircase is worth doing at the moment final finishing premises. If we are talking about an element intended for the street, it is desirable to sheathe it with corrugated tiles in order to avoid the occurrence of ice, moving along which can create a lot of inconvenience.

Methods for finishing concrete stairs

A monolithic structure in its “naked” form looks unfinished, and therefore will not fit into every room design.

To, first of all, you need to decide on the choice of materials. This decision is significantly influenced by the shape of the march. For example, for a straight marching staircase, any Decoration Materials, while for a curved structure or stairs with winder steps tile or stone will be completely out of place.

Considering all options, you must consider the issue of security. For example, if elderly people or children live in the house, it is worth choosing a material that can absorb shock in the event of a fall. The best option there will be a sheathing of a concrete staircase with wood, a laminate, or a covering with a soft dense carpet.

Not less than important criterion when choosing a coating is its sound insulation. Wood or modern fleecy "carpet" material is ideal. Ceramics and stone, in turn, look more expensive, but will sound every step, so tiling steps can lead to the fact that residents of the house will wake up at night from loud sounds.

Finishing a concrete staircase with wood
A traditional solution that will make the room warmer and more comfortable, and also visually lighten the massive structure.

If the design of the room is more classic than modern, it is best to use stone as an element decorating the concrete staircase. Photo examples can be seen on the Internet. Most often, the choice falls on granite or marble. In order to maintain an attractive appearance, it is necessary to cover the product with special impregnates that will protect the surface from clouding.

The most budget options

Most economical way jewelry will become regular painting concrete stairs. Depending on the preferences of the owners of the house, this can be done in one or more colors.

The problem with this solution is the rapid wear of the coating. The paint will remain unprotected from abrasion, and the surface will have to be "refreshed" periodically.

Carpet is also one of the most inexpensive options, but not every coating is suitable. In no case should it be slippery, no matter how beautiful it would look from an aesthetic point of view. 'Cause besides being attractive appearance, Finishing a concrete staircase with carpet requires the use of only the safest materials.

Video: a concrete staircase that does not need additional cladding

Conclusion

Summing up, we can say that it is quite possible to make a concrete staircase with your own hands. The main thing is to follow the basic recommendations. Cladding requires special care. In order for the structure to serve for many years, it must not only be properly manufactured and installed and properly looked after.

One of best solutions interfloor communication is a concrete staircase. Ready-made concrete products have quite categorical standardization and their use in atypical architecture is limited. In this article, we will look at the process and technology for creating a concrete staircase with our own hands.

Principles for calculating a concrete staircase

In order for the staircase to be convenient for each tenant, it must be correctly calculated. Of course, you can determine the parameters empirically by measuring the height and length of the steps of the actual stairs that you use and that you find comfortable. But it is better to stick to a proven calculation methodology.

The horizontal plane of the step is called the tread, and the vertical plane is called the riser. The width of the tread should be sufficient so that the foot rests on it by at least 80%. Stairs with a tread of 300 mm are considered the safest and most comfortable, when climbing stairs with wider steps, you are likely to lose your step, and a narrower tread will make the descent uncomfortable. The width of the flight of stairs should be at least 80 cm for the convenient passage of people and at least 120 cm if you plan to carry furniture or bulky items up the stairs.

The dependence of the height and width of the step on the angle of the stairs

The height of the riser is selected depending on the width of the tread. For steps with a width of 300 mm, a height of 150 mm will be optimal. If you want to make the steps wider by 10 mm, reduce the riser by the same amount and vice versa.

It is believed that the sum of the double height of the riser and the width of the tread should be equal to the average step of a person - 400-600 mm. This indicator is individual and depends on the height of the person, so if children live in the house, make the stairs safer by increasing the tread and reducing the width of each step.

Knowing optimal height riser, divide by this value the difference in height between floors, and you get the number of steps in the stairs. The fractional remainder of the division is the height of the first frieze step. By multiplying the number of steps by the width of the tread, you will determine the length of the horizontal projection of the flight of stairs and determine whether the flight of stairs fits into the space allotted for it.

If flight of stairs does not fit, you can make it shorter by increasing the angle of inclination. The most convenient and safe is the slope of the stairs at 26-37 °, it is more difficult to climb steeper stairs, and with a slope of more than 45 °, the descent is possible only backwards. To determine the angle of the stairs, use the model of a right triangle, in which the legs are the tread and the riser. You can calculate the angle by dividing the step height by its width and using the table of angle tangent values.

Determination of the angle of inclination of the stairs by the height and width of the step

If you do not want to sacrifice comfort, do not change the width and height of the steps. Instead, divide the span with an inter-flight platform, make 5-6 lower steps winder, or build a radial spiral staircase. Please note that in this case the width of the step at the narrowest point should not be less than 100 mm.

Reinforcement rules for flights of stairs

A concrete staircase is a self-supporting structure that needs additional support only if the flight angle exceeds 180°. Otherwise, in the central part of the monolithic structure, the fracture load will exceed the normative values and compensation will be required - fastening to the walls or the construction of supporting columns.

The main load in a concrete staircase falls on reinforcement, the amount of which is a record, in comparison with other reinforced concrete products - from 1.7 to 3% of the cross section along the length of the span and up to 0.8% of the cross section along the width. Reinforcement brand ST-5 is laid along the span with a step between the rods:

120 mm with a rod diameter of 10 mm;
160 mm with a diameter of 12-14 mm;
180 mm with a diameter of 16 mm;
200 mm with a diameter over 18 mm.

Reinforcement in the lateral projection is performed in increments of 250-300 mm. Reinforcement of platforms is carried out with a step of 200 mm in each direction.

The fastening of reinforcement to embedded elements in the walls is carried out not so much in order to provide additional support, but for the sake of solidity of the structure and in order to avoid cracks during the settlement of the building. However, to the ceilings, the monolith of the stairs must have a rigid fastening by means of the release of embedded reinforcement by 60-80 mm.

The reinforcement forms a grid, folded without clearance and placed on plastic clamps that regulate the protective layer of concrete 3-5 cm from each edge. Two-row reinforcement is sufficient for stairs with 18 steps, in longer spans an additional third row of longitudinal reinforcement will be required, located 5-6 cm above the main grid.

At the crosshairs, the mesh is tied with wire or nylon clamps. Each rebar must be continuous throughout its length or width, but this is not always possible on long spans or radius stairs. Therefore, it is allowed to splice embedded elements:

viscous with an overlap of 24 nominal diameters;
welding with a one-sided seam with an overlap of 12 diameters;
welding with a double-sided seam with an overlap of 6 diameters.

Steps do not need reinforcement, but it is reasonable to use them to protect them from chips. steel mesh 4x50 mm under a 2 cm layer of concrete.

Formwork installation

Formwork for stairs is simpler than it might seem. First, a gutter is mounted from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB, strictly horizontal in diameter and with vertical walls fastened together with screeds, one for each step. The role of the walls of the gutter can be performed by adjoining walls. On the inner surface walls with a thickness gauge marks the height of the ramp - carrier plate stairs, which is equal to the thickness of the reinforcement plus the top and bottom protective layer. Further with a ruler, and for radius stairs- a thread of fixed length, vertical edges of steps are marked on the drawn line. The length of the inclined segment is equal to square root from the sum of the squares of the height and length of the steps (Pythagorean law).

According to the marks made, vertical lines are drawn, on which the height of the steps is marked. To check, you should set aside a horizontal line on a new mark and measure the distance between the points of intersection with the vertical and the slope of the ramp: it should be equal to the length of one step.

According to the marked marks, the step formwork boards are installed vertically, fixing them to the walls of the gutter, the top of each step remains open. Adjacent boards are fastened with wedge-shaped struts, one for every 80 cm of the span width. The wide part of the wedge is attached to the end of the top board, the narrow part is superimposed on the upper edge of the bottom. Particular attention should be paid to the walls of the gutter, they will bear the main load.

The formwork is supported from below with scaffolds or telescopic racks with permissible load up to 800 kg. The number of racks is one for every 1.2 m 2 of the ramp surface. To install supports, 40x40 mm transverse bars are screwed to the bottom of the formwork from below to form a semblance of an inverted ladder.

pouring stairs

The filling of the flight of stairs between floors is carried out in one stage. You can’t prepare such an amount of concrete manually, and you can’t vouch for the quality of the artisanal mix. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the internal volume of the formwork, equal to the volume of the ramp plus the volume of one step, multiplied by their number. It is recommended to order concrete of class B30 or higher with a margin of at least 10% of the original volume to account for losses during transportation.

The pouring of the stairs begins with the lower steps with a gradual advance as the formwork is filled and the surface is leveled. Concrete must be rammed, and at the end of pouring, seated with vibration. Settling of the mixture on the steps after shrinkage can be eliminated by topping up immediately or grouting with M300 cement mortar on grade 500 cement the next day.

Concrete gains sufficient strength within 14 days. During the drying period, it is imperative to moisten the surface to avoid cracking. After two weeks, the formwork is removed and proceed to the finishing work.

Finishing work: how to simplify the cladding

There are many options for cladding stairs, ranging from simple painting to laying special marble slabs. It is only important to give a few tips that will greatly simplify further ennoblement.

Tip 1. Prepare formwork carefully. Up to the complete sealing of cracks and complete puttying. The formwork is a form, and if its surface is perfectly even, then after dismantling, it remains only to eliminate minor defects in the concrete to obtain an absolutely smooth coating.

Tip 2. Iron the steps the next day after pouring. If the formwork is mounted correctly, in the future it remains only to grind the edges a little.

Tip 3. Provide pre-embedded elements for railings and fences. This will not only simplify their installation, but will not violate the strength of the structure.

Tip 4. Don't skimp on spacers and formwork support. Even a slight twist or punch will ruin the look.

Tip 5 Make steps of the same height, with the possible exception of the frieze.

Tip 6 Start finishing the stairs only after the complete renovation of the house.

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