Chinese rose sticky drops on the leaves. Details about the diseases and pests of the Chinese rose and how to deal with them. Description of hibiscus and growing problems: video

How to plant crocuses

Crocus corms are located in the soil close to each other, because they are small in size, and the flowers look richer in dense groups. But keep in mind that children grow corms, so optimal distance 3-5 cm between them. Planting crocuses in large groups makes it possible to get a charming flowering meadow-flower bed that decorates a plot or garden in spring. After withering in place of crocuses, annuals can be sown.

The depth of planting crocuses depends on the size of the corms. Small ones are deepened by 4-5 cm, and for large corms, a hole 10-12 cm deep will be required. Don't bury them too deep: crocuses have retracting roots that pull the corm deeper into the soil when the plant wilts.

Place for planting crocuses

The area where you will plant crocus flowers should be well lit and drained. A good outflow of water is especially important, because its stagnation leads to the fact that the bulbs get sick and rot.

Therefore, a site with sandy light soil is most suitable. If it is too dense, sprinkle coarse sand in an even layer on the surface of the soil and dig the area - this way you will improve the condition of the soil.

The soil is fertilized in advance, for which compost is added to it or mineral fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus, but not nitrogen, since nitrogen is harmful to crocuses.

It is very important that the crocuses do not have a lack of light, so choose an open area that is not shaded by trees. In the shade, crocuses do not bloom well and may wither right in the buds.

It will be nice if on the leeward side the site is somehow protected from drafts and winds, otherwise the delicate flowers tend to bend from strong gusts, losing their petals.

The process of forcing corms of crocuses in pots takes about 3.5 months or 15 weeks, so if you want to get crocuses for the New Year, they are planted in mid-September, and if by Valentine's Day, then in early October. And for a gift by March 8, crocuses need to be planted around November 15th.

Before planting for forcing corms must be kept in the cold. That is, you can buy crocus bulbs in the summer and then store them for 1 week at a normal summer temperature (30-35 ° C), then 2 weeks in a colder room, and until August 10 - in a cellar or basement at a temperature of 17 ° C. And then until planting - in the refrigerator at a temperature of 9 ° C.

Then the crocus bulbs need to be planted in a flowerpot with large quantity drainage. When distilled, the bulb is the only source of nutrition for the plant. Sand is used as soil for forcing.

Corms in pots are very close to each other, because they, like in a garden, will not grow and form children. In addition, a dense planting of bulbs in flowerpots gives a beautiful, dense, rich bouquet, which is not a shame to present for any holiday.

Read about caring for crocuses after planting - both in the garden and at home.

Crocus - varieties, soil, reproduction

The genus Crocus (Crocus) belongs to the iris family (Iridaceae) and has about 80 species distributed in the Mediterranean, middle and Eastern Europe, in the Caucasus, the Middle East, in Asia Minor and Central Asia.

plant history

The scientific name of the plant comes from Greek word croke (thread); another, no less famous - "saffron" - from the Arabic sepheran (yellow, golden). Both define the most important part of the crocus flower - its long thread-like, branched pistil at the end, painted in bright yellow.

Crocus is one of the oldest cultivated plants. It has been planted for more than 3000 years ago. Then saffron was grown for the sake of orange pistils, from which a dye was obtained, which was used by artists. They also dyed fabrics in yellow and orange.

Dried stigmas of crocuses give the food not only an exquisite taste and aroma, but also a pleasing color to the eye.

And in ancient times, saffron was part of numerous medicinal, perfumery, cosmetic and magic potions. It was even believed that he was an aphrodisiac, able to heal almost all ailments, from headaches and melancholy and ending with pain relief during childbirth.

Modern research has confirmed healing properties crocus. In particular, it turned out to be a promising raw material for obtaining drugs against certain types of cancer.

Spring and autumn varieties of crocuses

crocuses- bulbous ephemeroids growing in the steppes, in meadows (including high-mountain ones), some species in forests.

By flowering time are divided into two groups: spring-flowering and autumn-flowering.

Corms of spring varieties of crocuses are planted in late summer - early autumn (August-September), before they start growing. Autumn varieties Summer (June-August).

planting depth, as a rule, equals the height of three bulbs. Crocuses are not afraid of shallow planting: they have a remarkable ability to grow special, thick roots that pull corms that are on the surface into the soil. Fully flowers of crocuses open only in a sunny place.

soil for crocuses

The best soils for growing crocuses are light loams. During the summer dormancy, the development and laying of flower buds is very well affected by the dryness of the soil, therefore, when preparing a site for planting, at least a small amount of drainage from coarse river sand or fine gravel is usually arranged. Nutritious compost, rotted manure or peat (with the addition of lime) are added to poor soils before planting.

Mineral fertilizers (phosphorus-potassium) spring crocuses useful to give in early spring, on melted snow. Organic - late autumn. Autumn views, on the contrary, mineral supplement obtained in autumn, after flowering, and organic - in early spring.

Growing crocuses require well-drained soil. Therefore, after a snowy winter and a dry spring of planting, it is useful to water: once - at the beginning of the appearance of buds, then - during the formation of leaves. Left without watering, the plants, of course, will not die, but they will fade faster, and subsequently receive less nutrients due to poor leaf development. Autumn crocuses usually do not need watering during the flowering period.

Reproduction and transplant

Work on transplanting crocuses and dividing their nests is carried out during the summer dormancy period: in June - the first half of August, autumn-flowering varieties are transplanted; in July - early September - spring.

Crocuses perfectly reproduce vegetatively, forming many children, therefore they require a transplant every 4–5 years. Otherwise, the corms in the nest become smaller (and the flowers, of course, too). The result of a strong thickening can be a complete cessation of flowering.

Dug out corms are sorted, cleaned of old scales and roots, checked for diseases and pests. Then they can either be immediately planted again, or left to dry in a well-ventilated warm room.

remember, that spring varieties should be planted in the ground no later than the end of September, autumn - the end of August.

Crocuses are easily propagated by daughter corms. The larger the mother bulb, the more children it forms. Shallow planting also contributes to an increase in the number of daughter corms. Babies bloom in the 3-4th year. Vegetative reproduction allows you to maintain the purity of the variety.

Propagated by crocuses and seeds. This method is especially promising for spring-flowering natural species(in autumn-flowering seeds do not always have time to start). It is better to sow freshly harvested seeds. The first flowering of young plants occurs in the 4-5th year. Crocuses do not require shelter for the winter.

Diseases and pests

AT middle lane In Russia, mice eat crocus bulbs (in Holland there is a saying on this subject: “If you want to have mice, plant crocuses”), moles, caterpillars of scoop butterflies and slugs.

Crocuses are susceptible viral diseases: whitish spots appear on the buds, and they usually do not open due to deformation of the tips of the petals. There is no cure for such infections. Plants affected by the virus are destroyed, the soil is disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Against fungal diseases (softening of corms, the appearance of spots under the scales), drying the excavated planting material with subsequent treatment with special preparations. Yellowing of crocus leaves (chlorosis) can be caused by improper growing conditions (poor drainage, etc.).

Crocuses: planting and care open ground behind them require specific knowledge so that this fragile and delicate flower rooted in the soil and pleased the eyes of the owners with its colorful petals. Another name for the plant is saffron, and most gardeners believe that it blooms exclusively in spring time. However, breeders have long developed special varieties of crocuses that can bloom in autumn.

Selection of planting material and landing site

Saffrons are distributed throughout almost the entire territory of Eurasia and feel good in temperate climates. But, before moving on to the issue of planting and caring for crocuses in the open field, you need to choose healthy bulbs plants and highlight right place for planting flowers in your garden.

How to choose viable saffron bulbs:

Even healthy parts of future flowers require pre-treatment before boarding. It is necessary to peel off the old skin from the bulbs and disinfect them by sprinkling with ash or soaking in a solution of manganese.

Planting and caring for crocuses in the open field should take place in spacious flower beds (flowers are capable of a short time occupy the entire area). They should be located in an open area, where there are many sunlight. Therefore, it is not recommended to plant saffron under trees with a dense crown.

The soil for crocuses of all subspecies should not be excessively wet. The soil structure should be loose, nutritious, light and not acidic. Do not be afraid if the soil in the garden does not meet these requirements, it can be made suitable for saffron using simple methods. From excessive dampness will help get rid of large river sand, gravel or crushed stone, which is used as a drainage layer. The acidity of the soil neutralizes the mixture and lime, ash or rotted manure.

Planting time for crocuses in the garden

When to plant crocuses outdoors? It all depends on the type of plant that the gardener has chosen, but they are all divided into flowers that bloom in spring or autumn.

Spring flowering plants include:

Since the flowering of these subspecies of ornamental flora occurs in the spring, crocuses are planted in open ground in the fall. They should be planted from late September to early October.

If spring-flowering varieties are planted earlier than the second half of September, then saffron may bloom by the frost period and eventually die. And if you plant a flower later than the first half of October, then the soil for the bulbs will be too cold, they will not be able to take root in it and simply freeze.

Autumn flowering subspecies of saffron include:

Flowers bloom in the garden in autumn, and therefore crocuses are planted in the ground in spring (late May) or early summer (first half of July).

How to care for saffron?

Saffron is not a flower that needs abundant watering. If autumn or spring (depending on what kind of flower is planted) were rich in precipitation, then they should be watered only when the soil becomes dry, not only on the surface, but also in depth. Otherwise, the plants can simply rot.

Outdoor crocus care is fairly easy. Periodically, it will be necessary to weed the flower rows, getting rid of weeds. The soil (especially after rain) must be loosened in order to root system plants have access to air.

Like any decorative flowers, crocuses need feeding. However, fertilizing saffron with organic mixtures is not recommended. It is better to purchase granular, enriched with potassium and phosphorus. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers should be applied with caution, in small doses, as they can provoke the growth of fungus on the plant bulbs.

Top dressing should be applied in at least 2 stages: first fertilize the soil before planting crocuses, and then during their period of enhanced growth.

Below are photos of crocuses in the open field:

Instruction

Some gardeners recommend repotting crocuses about once every five years, especially when it comes to garden breeding. But often these flowers are grown by housewives and in pots, and here it is important to create conditions as close as possible to natural environment plant habitat. Crocus is a bulbous plant, while babies bud from a large bulb every year, which must be planted in a timely manner, otherwise they begin to interfere with each other.

Do not be afraid if you suddenly find that in the height of summer, when other plants delight with greenery and color, crocuses suddenly begin to fade. Like every bulbous species, they have a dormant period. In crocus, it occurs around the middle of summer. In this state, the bulbs can be dug up, inspected, and damaged ones removed. After that, the bulbs are cleaned, dried for 5-7 days and stored in a dry and cool place.

Before planting, it is important to properly prepare the soil. For good growth and flowering, it is necessary to plant the bulbs in a loose and fertile soil. Mature manure is good for fertilizing, but never fresh!

It is equally important to pay attention to drainage, for this you can add coarse sand or fine gravel to the soil.

If you want crocus to please you with flowering in winter time, for example on new year holidays, then the bulbs must be planted in the soil around mid-September. At the same time, pay attention to the fact that they do not touch each other in a pot. It is advisable to plant bulbs of the same size in one pot so that they bloom all together. In the case of planting crocuses in open soil, spring-flowering plants are planted in September, and autumn-flowering plants in early to mid-July.

When for home growing plant bulbs are used open soil, it is necessary to withstand a certain temperature cycle of storage and disembarkation. To do this, during the first seven days after digging, the bulbs are kept at temperatures up to +30°C, then for two weeks at +20°C. After that, the temperature drops to + 15 ° C, and after a few days the bulbs are placed in the refrigerator. Further planting in the soil already depends on what time you want to see on your window blooming crocus. From planting to flowering takes about 3.5 months.

Hibiscus often decorates not only our homes, but also offices, shops, premises of household services. This plant, in principle, is unpretentious, but it has small enemies: pests and diseases that sometimes seriously annoy the Chinese rose. Knowing what hibiscus diseases are, analyzing their causes, you can prevent diseases, avoid problems by caring for the plant correctly. If troubles could not be avoided, urgent action must be taken.

Hibiscus diseases: some causes

The most common mistakes in caring for a Chinese rose, which beginner flower growers sometimes make, are as follows:

• Excessive watering, which caused partial root rot;
• Hibiscus stands in the wind, in a draft, or in a zone of direct sunlight;
• The plant is in a hot room, while the air is dry;
• The hibiscus was not transplanted on time;
• Hibiscus leaves are covered with dust;
• Complete or partial lack of spraying (especially in summer);
• Water for irrigation of poor quality, not settled and with impurities;
• Poor lighting, the plant is in a dark place;
• Excessive feeding;
• Lack of nutrition.

In addition to the above, you need to take into account that you can not put hibiscus next to diseased plants, such contact will lead to damage by pests, to various diseases.

Hibiscus leaves: why they get sick

If Chinese rose leaves are affected, this is mainly due to the appearance of chlorosis.

This disease occurs due to the fact that the production of chlorophyll in the green parts of the plant is reduced. The leaves lose their natural color, become pale, sometimes almost yellow.

Timely prevent further development chlorosis can be helped by timely transplantation, lack of contact with already sick pets, regular cleaning of dust layers, as well as regular application of suitable fertilizers. Sometimes the plant must be bathed under an indirect shower jet, carefully covering the ground with a piece of polyethylene. A new plant needs to be put on a small quarantine.

iron deficiency

Hibiscus sometimes sheds its leaves completely. This phenomenon is a sign of iron deficiency. Most affordable way help the plant, if the hibiscus has completely fallen off - spray it with an iron chelate preparation. The cause of the disease may still be that the fertilizer for pet chosen incorrectly: it has little or no necessary hibiscus useful substances and micronutrients.

Sunburn

As a rule, all hibiscus perfectly tolerate the direct rays of the sun, but if the Chinese rose lived for a long time in shady place, and then it was very sharply put on sunny window sill(without an adaptation period), then the leaves may experience sunburn. Outwardly, it looks like slightly yellowish or even red dryish spots. All burnt leaves will have to be removed, and the plant should be accustomed to the bright sun not so sharply.

Sometimes it happens that the leaves are accidentally pressed against the surface of the glass, in which case a burn may also occur. Sunburn is the main reason why hibiscus leaves curl. In order to prevent this phenomenon, all plants that are grown in greenhouses should be taken out to the daytime sun for a couple of hours daily. If at home the hibiscus was in the shade, then you should also put it in the sun for a short time, and then remove it. Gradually, instead of the burnt leaves, new ones will grow, already completely healthy.

Adverse Symptoms

• If hibiscus leaves fall, then most likely the room is too dry, and spraying is either not carried out, or it is clearly not enough. Drafts, replacement of lighting (sharp), other stress can also be the cause.
• Sharp yellowing a large number leaves can mean both infection with some pests, and diseases of the root system, chlorosis, or insufficient humidity in the room.
• If the tips of the leaves wither or dry, then there is a lack of trace elements (for example, nitrogen or phosphorus), other nutrients, and insufficient feeding of hibiscus.
• When the leaves become very lethargic, this means that the temperature allowed for the maintenance of the plant is exceeded, which is clearly above the norm.
• Sharp yellowing in combination with regularly falling leaves can often mean excessive moisture in the roots. winter period or vice versa, a low level of humidity in the room.
• Close attention also deserves the so-called vascular wilt of hibiscus. The rapidity of the development of the disease sometimes does not make it possible to take the necessary measures in time and save the plant. It is necessary to cut off very quickly (partially capturing healthy branches) the diseased parts of the hibiscus, then treat the entire plant with any antifungal drugs.

Not enough trace elements

Separately, it is worth dwelling on the lack of nutrients, poor feeding of the plant. So, what to do if the hibiscus is clearly lacking in potassium or magnesium, zinc? When the hibiscus appear yellow spots, you just need to replace the soil or apply special preparations that will make up for the lack of minerals. For example, if the plant lacks zinc, the leaves become too small, small specks soon appear on the leaves.

If the hibiscus does not have enough sulfur, then the edges of the leaf look brown, and if there is not enough magnesium, then chlorosis may appear on this plant, which occurs between the veins. The sheet becomes as if marbled, partially white, in some places it may appear dark spots. The lack of potassium is most clearly expressed in the partial or complete death of the edges of the leaf, this phenomenon looks very similar to the burn mentioned above.

Aphids, gall midges and other pests on hibiscus

Some inexperienced flower growers do not know why hibiscus leaves curl. Often this phenomenon means that the plant is damaged by aphids or some other pests that are dangerous for the plant. For this reason, it is extremely important not to wait for their appearance, but to periodically carry out preventive maintenance, it is especially important to do this before taking your pet out to the balcony or outside in the warm season, and before bringing the plants into the room in the fall.

If an aphid has appeared on the hibiscus, which is attracted by young and succulent shoots, then this will be immediately noticeable, as the leaves become a little sticky, then they begin to curl, or bend. In this case, all insects are first removed with the usual mechanical method(by means of a tampon and laundry soap). After this procedure, hibiscus must be carefully treated with special aphid preparations that are commercially available. You can also remember about folk methods but they are not always reliable and efficient.

If a conventional means and the prevention of diseases that were caused by pests was ineffective, while the hibiscus leaf curls or is affected in another way, additional methods of its treatment should be carried out. For example, if aphids are affected, spraying with insecticides (for example, Aktellik preparation) can be done. After two treatments, carried out with an interval of a couple of weeks, as a rule, the plant returns to normal.

Other hibiscus pests are:

• Midge gall midge, which causes partial abscission, sharp yellowing of leaves and buds in indoor hibiscus Sometimes they don't even fully bloom. Upon careful examination of the plant, in the buds you can see the smallest eggs of this midge, then worms will appear from them that eat the bud inside.
• If the plant is affected by the whitefly, the leaves turn yellow, become sticky and sticky, and the insects themselves can be found on the underside of the leaves. The whitefly is removed using potassium soap, as well as special preparations (Aktara or Karbofos, as well as Iskra and Tanrek).
• If a tea rose has waxy white discharge (on cuttings, on leaves), then the plant is affected by a mealybug, the leaves can be treated with mineral oil. During the procedures, the plant should stand in a shady place.
• If brownish bumps are visible on the leaves, then this may be a scale insect.

It's good to remember folk remedies, with which our grandmothers washed the leaves of domestic plants from pests, aphids and scale insects. For example, red pepper (dry) is poured with water in a ratio of one to two, boiled for an hour and filtered. Ten grams of the solution is diluted in one liter of water with laundry soap, with which the whole plant is treated. Also, in one liter of water, fifty grams of dry mustard can be boiled for 15 minutes. The resulting broth is diluted in 20 liters of water and the affected plant is sprayed.

More about pests: spider mites on hibiscus

If the air in the room is dry and spraying is not carried out regularly, then good conditions for the development of mites on hibiscus, their colonies multiply rapidly, feeding on the juice from the leaves. Appearance spider mite can very quickly completely destroy the plant, so you need to know characteristics his presence. First of all, these are spots on the leaves, they can be brown or black, in fact, they are pest excrement.

The upper parts of the leaves are completely covered with small yellowish spots, the affected leaf loses its natural color, then becomes covered with a web of cobwebs, then falls off. Ticks migrate along the web and destroy the entire plant.

For prevention, you need to monitor the humidity in the room, spray hibiscus regularly, avoiding dryness.

So, if you carefully observe all the necessary conditions for cultivation healthy plant, it is unlikely that diseases and pests will bother your hibiscus so much. Proper care is the guarantee of an attractive appearance, rich flowering, as well as strong immunity, which will help the plant cope on its own even with the invasion of pests.