How to install a sewer in an apartment. Installation of apartment sewerage - rules and possible errors. Necessary materials and tools

So, the question arises of replacing the sewerage system in the apartment. Or, in a finished, newly built room, is it required to carry out a plumbing system? If extra or free Money no, you have to think about independent work. All that is required is a little free time and the willingness to independently and efficiently carry out all the work to change the sewer system. Do-it-yourself sewerage in the apartment is quite real!

Planning

The sewer system located in the apartment is a non-pressure system. Its purpose is to divert common wastewater from the main places of the apartment to the common riser of the house. This means that from the plumbing to the riser, the sewer system must have a certain angle of inclination, allowing waste water move in a given direction.

The first thing to start with is to plan the sewer system. If the apartment or house requires overhaul in order to replace the old parts of the sewer system with new ones, the task is greatly simplified. In another case - when installing sewers in a new house - you will have to think about leading pipes to the right places. What is required from the planning stage?

• Choose places for installing plumbing - a kitchen sink and all the details of a bathroom. If only a change of plumbing and pipes is carried out, you need to make sure that the outlets of the pipes of the sewer system are in order.
• Prepare or inspect existing sewerage wiring. At this stage, the angle of inclination is selected. It depends on the diameter of the pipes: with a diameter of 50 mm, the slope should be 3 cm per 1 m of the length of the pipe; with a diameter of 100 mm - 2 cm per 1 m of pipe length.
• Determine how much and what building materials will be required to replace or install a sewer system.
• Purchase the necessary building materials for the upcoming work.
• This is followed by a test assembly of the sewer and its verification.
• Dismantling the old system or preparing for the installation of sewers.
• Installation of new equipment, installation and sealing of the system.
• Connecting everything you need plumbing equipment and checking its work.

Preparation for the installation of the sewer system

When planning plumbing work careful measurements must be made in order to purchase sewer pipes of the required length and diameter.

Any inaccuracies in the project will result in the impossibility of the functioning of the entire system as a whole.

Therefore, measurements of future sewage wiring should be carried out as accurately as possible. For non-professionals, it is not required to draw up a complete project for installing the system, it is enough to take the necessary measurements. You will need values ​​not only for pipes and their connecting parts - fittings and cuffs, but also for plumbing - sinks, sinks, toilets, bathrooms.

During a major overhaul, to simplify the task, it is required to select plumbing with characteristics similar to the old one. Measurements will also be greatly simplified: you only need to measure the existing sewer wiring.

For sewerage, polypropylene pipes are becoming more and more popular. They possess excellent performance: do not rust, do not deteriorate, do not contain deposits with inside are light weight and easy to replace. Therefore, it is recommended to immediately purchase replacement pipes, connecting parts to them and transitions from cast-iron pipes from which the central system sewers, on polypropylene. Before buying, you need to make a list of the required parts, so that later you do not buy the necessary parts.

To connect new pipes, you will need a silicone fairy tale designed for installing a sewer system. Its use helps to quickly mount a new system, reduce resistance in pipes. When connected polypropylene pipes a special cuff is required, which, if docked unsuccessfully, can deform and create stress in this part of the sewer system due to the rapid fluctuation of high and low temperatures. Silicone grease is designed to prevent such moments.

The next step will be the dismantling of the old sewage system. First, the risers overlap, after which existing system sewerage is disassembled into parts and taken out of the apartment.

Mounting

• It is preferable to start the replacement from the very difficult place: from the riser, if a change is planned not only sewer pipes. For this, they select plastic pipes with the same diameter.
• Before installing the sewer, it is necessary to carefully check the purchased Construction Materials: there must be a chamfer on the pipes, and they themselves must be without any flaws.
• When assembling the system, it is necessary to connect the parts of the sewer system with some allowance to compensate for changes in the length of the pipe due to temperature fluctuations. Its value does not exceed 1 cm. That is, when the pipes are connected to the stop, the parts are moved apart by 1 cm.
• The sewerage system being carried out must necessarily be attached to the walls. For this, a mounting clamp is intended. The distance from one clamp to another depends on the diameter of the pipes used. For example, standard 110 mm pipes for sewage are attached to the wall every meter. At the same time, it should be possible for the longitudinal movement of the pipes. Such a "floating" fastening of the sewer system will ensure a longer service life of all building materials used in the installation.

• If it is assumed that the sewerage in the apartment will be located in the walls, then after the final drafting of the project, it is necessary to drill holes with the desired angle of inclination and the possibility of fixing the pipes in a “floating” position. After placing all parts of the system in the prepared holes in the wall and checking the operation of the system as a whole, it is necessary to plaster the surface.

When placing the sewer system in the walls, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of cement getting into the joints various sites sewerage.

For this, ordinary adhesive tape is used, and the pipes themselves are wrapped with protective material: fiberglass, corrugated cardboard, mineral fiber.

A photo

Carrying out major repairs in own apartment, it makes sense to think about the complete or partial replacement domestic sewer system. During the construction of houses of the old housing stock, for the arrangement of sewers, cast iron pipes and shaped elements which currently do not meet modern quality standards.

In addition, due to physical wear and tear, such systems cannot guarantee many years of uninterrupted operation, so the timely replacement of sewer pipes in the apartment with your own hands will help to avoid unpleasant surprises in the future.

Self-installation of intra-apartment sewerage

In the previous article, we started talking about, and in order to substantively study this issue, this article will consider the main aspects self installation modern sewer system inside a residential apartment.

Material selection

There is currently great amount all kinds of pipes and fittings, however, when choosing plumbing products for your apartment, you should give preference to pipes and fittings made of rigid PVC or polypropylene. These materials are fully compliant with sanitary and building codes, have a long service life, are resistant to impact hot water, and products from them are produced in large assortment products.

Before changing the sewer pipes in the apartment, for right choice and the purchase of materials is recommended to read the useful information.

1. Before buying materials and components, it is necessary to draw up a detailed diagram of the home sewage system with exact dimensions and an indication of all plumbing fixtures.
2. To make it convenient to carry out maintenance and repair of sewer pipes in the apartment, the entire system must be assembled from separate elements on socket or threaded connections.
3. Each pipe must be fixed to the wall at least at two points, so when buying, you need to choose the appropriate fasteners.

Note! Plastic pipes have lower sound absorption than cast iron pipes, so for a comfortable stay, you may need additionalsound insulation of sewer pipes in the apartmentusing special heat and sound insulating materials.

Mounting Features

Before starting work, first of all, you need to dismantle the old sewer system. When dismantling, you can use all available tools (grinder, chisel, crowbar), since it will not be useful anywhere else.

The only place where care must be taken is the connection of the vertical riser to the drain manifold. The vertical riser socket is usually made of gray cast iron, so it can crack or break apart from sharp jerks or strong impacts.

Completely removing residue old sewer you can start installation new system. You need to know that the replacement of sewer pipes in an apartment is always carried out from the bottom up, that is, from the vertical riser to plumbing fixtures.

1. Clean the socket of the vertical riser from rust and mortar residues, lubricate the inside with silicone sealant, and then insert the connecting rubber cuff into it.
2. Inside the connecting cuff on silicone sealant insert the pipe of the common drain manifold, while observing the required angle of inclination.
3. According to the drawn up scheme, in the right places, connect the outlets to the drain manifold and install pipes of the required diameter to connect all plumbing fixtures.
4. At the end points of the divorced pipes, install water seals or plumbing siphons.
5. Do-it-yourself installation of all plumbing communications must be carried out in such a way that the socket must be directed against the flow of wastewater.

Advice! If the system has check valve, it is installed between a horizontal intake manifold and a common vertical riser.

Conclusion

After reading this article, it becomes clear that the independent replacement of the internal sewage system is a responsible matter, but quite feasible for any home master.

To receive additional information on this issue, you can watch the video in this article or read similar materials on this topic on our website, and you can ask your questions in the comment form.

To install a sewer system in an apartment, it is important to choose the right pipes and prepare the pipeline for assembly. Strict adherence to the installation rules will help to avoid mistakes and reduce the risk of problems during the operation of the sewer.

To equip the indoor drainage system, pipes made of cast iron or polymers are used: polyethylene, polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride.

Cast iron products are strong, durable (service life - up to 100 years), resistant to temperature extremes, chemical and mechanical impact and absorb sounds well, but expensive, and without special tools and installation skills to mount cast iron pipeline it is difficult to do it with your own hands, here you can’t do without the help of specialists.

Independently, the drainage system is often mounted from polymer pipes: polyethylene, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride. Polymer pipes are easy to install and much cheaper than cast iron pipes, but they have two significant drawbacks: the lack of sound absorption and a shorter service life - up to 50 years.

Each type of plastic has its own characteristics and operating temperature:

Note! For internal sewerage using plastic pipes gray color, orange go for outdoor drainage systems.

An important factor in the choice of pipes is the throughput. This parameter depends on the diameter of the pipe and functional purpose pipeline section.

Installation of sewerage in the apartment

It is necessary to install the sewerage system in the apartment as soon as possible, because the sewerage network in apartment building general, and installation work cause inconvenience to neighbors. Therefore, you need to plan in advance the procedure, decide on a set of building materials, carry out necessary training workspace.

Process features

The sewerage device in the apartment has nuances depending on whether the old pipeline is being replaced or it is being installed from scratch.

The sewerage scheme in the apartment is a non-pressure system in which drains move towards the riser due to the slope of the pipes. The lowest point of the apartment sewer is the tee for entering the common house riser.

In most houses that were built about 30 years ago, a bathroom and a bathroom were located next to the kitchen. With such a system, everything sewer water going to single system, starting from the kitchen, then go through the bathroom and toilet, and at the end merge into a common riser. Thanks to the exit of the upper part of the riser to the roof, the entire system is provided with good ventilation.

Sewer pipes are laid with a uniform slope, which contributes to the uninterrupted flow of effluents. If the specified angle of inclination of the pipes is violated, blockages may form at the bends.

The optimal slope of pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm is 3%, that is, 3 cm per meter of sewer pipe, 85-100 mm - 2%.

It is with such slope parameters that the effect of pipe self-cleaning is most fully manifested. This effect consists in a combination of a certain speed of movement of wastewater and the required degree of filling of the pipes, at which the waste is washed out without stagnation in the pipes. With an increase in the angle of inclination, the speed of movement of drains will increase, and the occupancy will decrease, a decrease in the angle will cause the opposite effect. In both cases, the self-cleaning process will deteriorate.

That is why the laying of sewerage in an apartment is carried out in only two ways:

• at a slope of 2-3%,
• vertically.

Vertical wiring is used in cases where optimal slope does not provide the output of the pipe to the required height of the plumbing fixture.

How to sewer in an apartment

Due to the presence in modern apartments many plumbing fixtures, an extensive sewerage system is currently relevant, each branch of which is laid with an optimal slope.

Not all plumbing fixtures need to be connected to the sewer. Devices such as a heated towel rail and a water heater are connected only to the water supply system, since they do not form drains.

As a rule, in modern apartments, the internal sewer system is connected to the riser by inserting a cross with three outlets into it. The diameter of two branches is 50 mm, and the third - 100 mm.

Inserting additional crosses into the sewer is not possible, since the location of additional entry points above the main cross will require too high an arrangement of plumbing fixtures, and below it will affect the territory of neighbors.

The standard wiring of the sewerage in the apartment is carried out as follows:

• a toilet bowl and a bidet are connected to the main line with a diameter of 100 mm;
• all other toilet and bathroom appliances are connected to the first main line with a diameter of 50 mm - a shower cabin, a bathtub, sinks, a washing machine;
• to the second main main pipe with a diameter of 50 mm connect kitchen plumbing fixtures - a sink and a dishwasher.

Features of connecting plumbing fixtures

The height at which the plumbing fixture should be located depends on its distance from the main riser. Since all pipes are led with a uniform slope upwards, the further the device is located from the riser, the higher the drain must be raised relative to the entry point.

In the sewer system, there are two devices that do not need to be raised above the floor to drain them:

• washing machine,
• Dishwasher.

They are equipped centrifugal pumps, which remove waste water with effort, and not by gravity. The points of connection of these devices to the sewer system can be located even above the plane on which these devices stand. Therefore, the dishwasher and washing machine can be installed at the furthest and highest points of the sewer system.

Connection to the sink sewerage system and kitchen sink can be carried out at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor surface. At the same time, the devices themselves do not need to be lifted, since the drains from these devices can be located at a distance of 70-80 cm from the plane on which the device is installed.

Varieties of sewer pipes and features of their laying

For the installation of a sewer system in an apartment, most often, three types of polymer pipes are used:

• polypropylene,
• polyethylene,
• polyvinyl chloride.

There is no fundamental difference between them when used in the conditions of intra-apartment wiring. Pipes - PVC and polypropylene - can be equipped with additional sound insulation. Cast iron sewer pipes are practically not used.

Sewerage repair in the apartment , carried out with the help of polymer pipes, simplified as much as possible. light technology assembly is ensured by the special design of these pipes. Each segment, and its length can vary from 300 mm to 3 m, on the one hand is equipped with a coupling with a rubber sealing ring. There is a chamfer at the other end of the pipe. All connecting parts also have a coupling with a rubber ring at one end.

To lay a sewer branch, they take a piece of pipe, if necessary, cut it to size, insert it with the smooth side into coupling next length or connecting fitting.

One small but important rule must be observed.

The pipe is first inserted into the coupling until it stops, and then slightly (by 10-15 mm) is moved back.

Thus, a damping gap will be formed in the connection, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the pipe. When exposed to hot water polymer pipe, which has a significant coefficient of linear expansion, will increase by several millimeters. If the pipe has nowhere to extend, then it will be skewed, which will lead to a violation of the tightness of the coverage of the segment by the sealing ring. The connection will leak.

When laying the sewer network, it is better to avoid right angle turns.

It is advisable to use instead of one corner fitting 90 0 two - 135 each 0 is:

• will significantly increase throughput sewer pipes,
• reduce the risk of blockages.

The role of a water seal in the sewer system

Sewer water has an unpleasant odor. However, in the apartment we do not feel them thanks to a simple, but very important device - a water seal.

A water seal is a water plug, which is formed when two pipes drop in height. At the same time, a certain amount of water is constantly in the pipe, completely blocking it in cross section, even when the sewer is not used. Sewer gases do not penetrate from the pipes into the room precisely because of this water barrier. At the time of draining, the water plug is replaced with a new one.

If the bathroom is not used for a long time, then the rooms may appear bad smell. This is due to the evaporation of the liquid, which leads to the drying of the water seal.

To fix the problem, it is enough to turn on the taps for a few minutes and drain the water in the toilet.

You can prevent the water seal from drying out with a little trick.

Before leaving the apartment, drain holes pour a small amount vegetable oil. The oil forms a film that prevents the liquid from evaporating.

The toilet and bidet initially have water seals in their design.

Kitchen sinks, sinks, bathtubs, showers are connected to the system using siphons, which play a dual role:

• connecting element between the device and the pipe,
• water seal.

Restoration of the sewerage system in the house is an important part of the repair work inside the apartment. Therefore, it is necessary to clearly understand the principle of work sewer system, which will avoid gross errors in the installation of pipes and plumbing fixtures.

Tired of rusty stains and streaks in the bathroom and kitchen? Do bad smells make you blush in front of guests? I want a new one, but without extra costs on incoming masters? Then this article is for you.

Have you called a plumber?

The services of a licensed organization with competent specialists are expensive. You may not be satisfied with their work schedule. And it is not in the habit of our person to deal with such problems in the organization. We usually look for craftsmen through acquaintances, through ads at the entrance, or even just go to management company and who will be sent there. And the plumber sent or the coven you found may not be what you expected. A person may not work in an organization because he does not like control and is not used to sticking to a certain schedule, he may have his own ideas about cleanliness and politeness. And we can only guess about the experience of this person.

And here the question arises, is it really so difficult to do the sewerage in the apartment with your own hands. If you have the time, are not afraid to get a little dirty, do not trust the covens and are used to relying on your own strength, then this article is for you. For those whose slogan in life is: “If you want something to be done well, do it yourself!”

Strategy and tactics

For coverage largest number sufferers consider the standard case. Do you live in ordinary apartment, in which there is a bathroom and a kitchen with a cast-iron sewer made during the construction of the house.

You need to start with planning. Those. you need to decide for yourself where the appliances will be located: compact or installation, washbasin, bath or shower, sink, washing machine. If the devices do not change their location, this is already a good help. You can accept, in whole or in part, the scheme for installing sewer pipes as it was done by the builders. This is usually standard solutions and they work. If not, then it's okay, the main thing is to adhere to the basic principles.

So, what should someone who decides to do their own sewerage do-it-yourself know:

• All appliances, except for the toilet, should be picked up with pipes with a diameter of 50 mm.
• If the device does not have a built-in water seal, it must be installed. Otherwise, unpleasant odors from the sewerage system will enter the apartment through the drain holes.
• The toilet bowl is connected to a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.
• The riser in the apartment should be 110mm in diameter.

Sections of the system should be divided into horizontal and vertical. Do not lay long sections diagonally. Firstly, aesthetics suffer from this, and secondly, pipeline manufacturers did not plan this. This is necessary so that the effluents flow evenly without separation into fractions and the pipelines remain clean inside.

Horizontal sections are always laid with a slope to the riser. The size of the slope should not be taken less than 3 cm and more than 8 cm per linear meter.

The pipes are connected to each other through sockets with a rubber sealing ring. The socket should always be located on the pipe that is closer to the riser downstream of the drains. In extreme cases, couplings are allowed.

Sewer pipes are fixed to the walls or ceilings along which they run with clamps. Pipes from appliances should be located as low as possible near the floor. For fixing sewer pipes, metal clamps with rubber gasket, and the rest of the clamps can be plastic, which will allow the pipe to move in the axial direction to compensate for thermal expansion. One clamp is enough running meter, but not less than two per site. Very short sections and fittings are held in sockets and at the ends of adjacent pipelines.

Sections of pipelines are interconnected by fittings. There are many varieties of them, but the nomenclature of different manufacturers mostly general. To avoid problems with assembly and tightness, all pipelines and fittings must be used from one manufacturer. If you do not find clamps from the same manufacturer, you can take others that match in diameter.

When planning wiring diagram should proceed from the principle of reasonable minimalism. Excessive number of elements should be avoided. You should not try to build water seals from fittings if a factory element can be used. The water seal assembled from the knees may lose its tightness. It is not so convenient for maintenance (cleaning). Tees and crosses with oblique leads are more preferable than with straight ones, they stratify the flow less. Under no circumstances should a tee or cross be placed against the current.

To connect with the remaining sections cast iron riser there are rubber cuffs and plastic adapters. Since trimmings and sockets on thirty-year-old cast iron rarely have the correct geometric shape and surface structure, it is also necessary to lay plumbing sealant along the junctions.

It is equally important to choose the tie-in locations in existing sewer. The best option- this is when all tenants of apartments change pipes at the same time in one riser. It turns out clean, neat, reliable. But the realities are such that the presence of desire and opportunities to implement this comes to different people in different time. Therefore, we will consider other options. Let's say you are lucky neighbors from below and above, or one of them agreed to place the joint in their apartment. What does it give. There will be no pieces of black cast-iron cuttlefish left in your apartment, the likelihood of leaks is minimal. And most importantly, after such a replacement, you can safely proceed to finishing work when the neighbors decide to change their pipes, they will no longer have to climb into your apartment. But it happens differently, no one lets you go anywhere. Well, it's okay less work, you do not need to remove the cast iron from the ceiling and then close up the holes in the floor and ceiling. What-no, but joy. The main thing is not to lose optimism and clearly go to the goal.

Another important point for the inhabitants of the upper floors. But first, a little background. When you or someone who lives below drains the water in the toilet, a good portion of drains enters the system, which, filling the entire section of the pipe, tends down. This mass of water, moving in the pipe, creates a vacuum behind it, which draws water from all the surrounding siphons with a surging sound. But don't worry it won't happen smart people two types of devices have been devised. First, fan pipe, continues the riser and exits through the ceiling to the attic or roof and equalizes the pressure in the system with atmospheric pressure. Second, air valve, is used when the installation of a vent pipe is undesirable for technical or aesthetic reasons. It is installed at the top of the system, for example, on the main cross, and lets air into the system when pressure is reduced, but does not allow gases from the system to escape. A little subtlety. As they say, a boot is more reliable in battle, and a fan pipe is more reliable than a valve. There is nothing to break in it.

So this is what you are...

Now that we have clarified the main points, it is worth considering what we have to work with with our own hands when repairing the sewer.

	Sewer pipe for internal works. It happens in the following diameters in millimeters 32, 40, 50, 110. The lengths are different, from 200mm to 4000mm. I repeat that the running diameters are 50mm and 110mm
	Elbow or bend. Like all subsequent fittings, they correspond to the diameters of the pipelines with which they are used. They are used with different angles of retraction: 90, 67, 45, 30, 20, 15. In general, there is a choice.
	Tees straight and oblique. The diameter of the side cut may be smaller than the nominal value of the straight part. The angle of the oblique tee is 45º.
	Transition or reduction. Used to connect pipes of different diameters.
	Transition from cast iron to plastic. Many also use it to connect the toilet.
	Transition from plastic to cast iron. It is used when there is a section of cast-iron sewerage with a socket.
	Stub. It is installed, for example, in the end of a tee, which is used instead of an elbow, for periodic cleaning of the area. Or instead of appliances that are not yet installed.
	The same as the tee, but with two inputs. It comes in single plane or double plane. Just like a tee, it can have oblique entries, different diameters inputs.
	Connects sections of pipes without sockets.
	Revision. It is worth installing it on the riser. Through the screw-on lid it will be possible to remove a doormat or other foreign objects without completely dismantling the system.
	Outlet for the toilet. Standard adapter from your compact to a pipe with a diameter of 110mm. Available for different types outlets on the toilet. For straight, oblique, vertical.
	Toilet eccentric. The same as the outlet, but with the ability to simplify the positioning of the device relative to the receiving pipe. But without the ability to change the mating plane, because repeats the direction of the outlet of the toilet bowl. With a large eccentricity, it is often indispensable, if necessary, to install the toilet closer to the riser. The disadvantage is that it narrows the cross section in most designs.
	Corrugation for the toilet. Another way to connect the toilet to the downpipe. The simplest positioning, but also the narrowest section. Plus, the disadvantages of a non-smooth surface: it has more chances to overgrow.
	Siphon for a sink with a corrugation. Easy to take apart and clean. Preference should be given to products that are inserted into a receiving pipe with a diameter of 50 mm without elastic. Models for washbasins, bathtubs, shower cabins differ only in the design of the overflow and the length of the fixing bolt.
	Pipe clamp with stud and dowel. Drilled, hammered and secured. Everything is simple.
	Silicone grease for connecting sewer pipes. makes life easier for plumbers. Without it, connecting elements is much more difficult. If you can't find it, you can soapy water, but the effect, of course, is not the same.
	Air valve. Struggling with vacuum after flushing water from the toilet bowl.
	The cuff is rubber transitional. Allows connection of a discharge hose washing machine or corrugations of siphons without a shank by 50mm.

Before you go to the store, draw a diagram on paper. Better in multiple ways. Choose the best one. write it all out necessary elements and fixture. A little stock won't hurt. It is very frustrating when something is missing in the midst of work. This stage is no less responsible than the installation itself.

Nus, let's get started!

Everything is thought out, purchased, you are full of desire and mood to carry out the installation plastic sewer with their own hands, they chose a fine Saturday day, sent their wife and children to their mother, and then you are surprised to find that the old cast iron sewer and plumbing fixtures have not gone away. Well, you have to do their dismantling.

Irreplaceable assistants in this matter will be a small angle grinder for cutting pipes and fasteners, a powerful nail puller, a hammer, a chisel, screwdrivers and some small things at hand, which will be discussed later.

At this stage, you can not stand on ceremony. Break not build. We disassemble the old system into elements convenient for taking out of the apartment up to the riser.

If your case involves inserting into a common riser, and not replacing it, then get ready for a crucial stage in the work. We cut out a section and fasteners in the middle of the riser. Further options are possible.

Option one is good. The neighbors have already changed the sewer and you just need to connect to the plastic pipelines in the usual way. Carefully detach the remains of the pipe from the plastic. Dismantling completed.

Option two is normal. The pipes below and above are cast iron, but there is an element of luck. There is a joint under the ceiling or near the neighbors under the main cross (if they let you in). Then you can break, loosen your upper bell and take out the pipe. The factory round shank will remain, with which you can continue to work. At the bottom, things are much more complicated. The fact is that you must definitely keep the receiving bell either after your main cross or the nearest bell from the neighbors from the top (if they let you in). This is usually not an easy task. In the Soviet Union they minted to the conscience. This is where every little thing at hand comes in handy. Knitting needles, an awl, fragments of a hacksaw blade, it may even require burning out. The only task is to carefully split and loosen the shank, in order to then remove it from the socket without damaging the latter. Be gentle but persistent and you'll be fine. Tapping, staggering, picking, etc. If it is necessary to prick the liner, do not crush the debris into the riser.

Option three, the usual one. At the top, there is just a smooth riser without signs of a socket, which remained in the ceiling. With a small grinder, we cut out the elements at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling. You may have to finish the canvas. Brace yourself. At the outlet, there should be an even cut perpendicular to the axis of the pipe. The operations below are similar to the previous option. That is life.

We cover the free lower socket with a wet cloth and plastic bag and wrap it with an elastic band, so it will be more pleasant to work. We carry out the remains of the wreckage. We put things in order.

You need to start with a riser, in general, sewage is always mounted from the bottom point.

We insert the adapter from plastic to cast iron into the lower socket, having previously thoroughly lubricated it with sealant, into it the section of the 110th pipe to the main cross and, finally, the cross itself. We mark the axis of the riser on the wall with a pencil and drill and fasten the receiving part of the 110th clamps. Then we install a revision and a pipe section with an adapter from cast iron to plastic. The cast iron shank must also be cleaned and lubricated with sealant. Adapter cast iron-plastic with rubber cuff has sufficient depth to slide it over the shank, and then let it into the socket of the revision. We fix the finished riser with the mating part of the clamps.

Next we need building level. We mark the axes on the walls future system according to the required slopes.
We carry out pre-assembly future nodes and sections. When assembling, do not forget to insert rubber O-rings into the sockets and lubricate them silicone grease or soapy water.

If it is necessary to make holes and strobes, we apply the assembled elements and outline the contours. This will help prevent unnecessary damage.

We mark the places for drilling under the dowels of the clamps. We fix and assemble our system.

Before installing the devices, it is better to install the plugs.

Now the apotheosis. We install a pre-assembled toilet bowl using special bends, eccentrics, corrugations or a cast-iron-plastic adapter if special elements could not be purchased. It will not be superfluous to lubricate rubber elements sealant, because not every toilet shank has the correct shape.

Installation of devices can be done slowly as water is supplied and finishing work is performed.

To the madness of the brave we sing a song

I hope that the time spent reading this material not wasted in vain and in your life there will also be a place for a feat. Now you can look at your acquaintances who hired a plumber with a slight sense of inner superiority. And your other half should take a fresh look at your betrothed, because not every woman has a husband - a master.