Is it possible to paint the bathtub with car paint. How to paint the bathtub inside to restore the snow-white coating. How to paint a bath with enamel

Even if you once purchased an expensive and quality bath, after many years, it ceases to be as attractive as it was originally. It is required to update it inside, since the enamel tends to become thinner, resulting in chips, yellow stains and other phenomena. If similar troubles happened to your bathroom, painting it with your own hands can help. In this article, you will find the answer to the frequently asked question - how to paint the inside of the bath, and also learn how to prepare and apply paint to its surface and pipes correctly.

Not to change old bath at home for a new one, which is associated with financial costs and the need to dismantle plumbing, you can update the bath with your own hands.

For products made of cast iron, metal or tin, an enamel spray is used. After purchasing it and preparing tools such as sandpaper, mask, napkins from natural material, sponges, construction tape, as well as primer, enamel, degreaser (acetone or other), rubber gloves, singing products and protective film, you can paint the bath with enamel. To enjoy excellent result, you need not save on the purchase of paint, since it is better to make a high-quality restoration once.

Professionals advise painting the bath with their own hands with epoxy enamel. It is issued in convenient form aerosol. Allows you to get a durable wear-resistant coating at home. But remember that enamel is toxic. Painting a bathtub with enamel can be challenging task for newbies.

You can also paint the bathroom with your own hands at home with acrylic. It is recommended to mix it with a hardener and use immediately. You can get rid of smudges in the process of work with sponges or pieces of natural fabric. Acrylic bulk enamels can be applied even by a non-professional. They tend to spread over the surface in a uniform layer. A DIY coating will have the same thickness and resemble a coating acrylic bath. Bathtub painting with acrylic perfect solution for stylish interior bathroom.

Experts advise using three-component formulations that are mixed before painting. Modern manufacturers such products - Tikkurila, Jobi, Dulux. Such compositions contain a primer with moisture-proofing characteristics and, for example, a semi-matt coating.

Paint at home old bath oil, alkyd, aerosol composition, car enamel or nitro paint is impossible - this is not only unhealthy, but also useless from the point of view of restoring the coating.

As for painting the pipes in the bathroom, it is carried out if they have rust or if the design of the room needs to be changed. Modern pipes are made of stainless alloys, non-ferrous metals, plastic. In old-style houses there are perennial pipes made of ferrous metal - cast iron and steel.

From the surface metal pipes previously removed old paint and rust, wash them. Then primed to achieve better adhesion of paint to metal base. For hot pipes, you will need heat-resistant paints (marked paint for heating radiators). Before painting cold pipes, make sure that there is no condensation. It is not necessary to paint galvanized surfaces, except for threads or welds where coating defects are found. For metal surface suitable paints and primers with organic solvents in the composition.

Plastic either polymer pipes can only be painted at the request of the owner who plans to change the interior. Usually they do not need painting, having initially white, gray, beige or in green. If necessary, they are treated with non-aggressive acetone-free compounds.

Modern innovations allow you to choose compositions in which paint and primer are successfully combined. But many professionals prefer to use primer and paint separately, since each of the compositions has its own purpose.

The most popular compositions today:

alkyd enamel, which perfectly resists temperature fluctuations and has high stability;
water-dispersion paint - dries quickly, does not have bad smell, environmentally friendly;
acrylic enamel - is durable, gives the surface an aesthetic appearance.

Surface preparation

Before applying paint with your own hands, you should get rid of lime and grease in the bathroom. Help will be provided by cleaning products. Avoid those that contain chlorine. To check whether the fat is removed qualitatively, see if there are any drops of water on the surface when wetting.

Next, you need to remove the gloss, it is upper layer enamel. To do this, you can use a metal brush, sandpaper or an electric drill with a special abrasive nozzle. When performing work, you should protect your eyes and respiratory organs, try to exclude drafts, as there will be a lot of dust. The quality of painting directly depends on the surface, after cleaning it should be as even as possible.

Dry the bathroom thoroughly with a vacuum cleaner or hair dryer. She gets filled hot water and leave for 20 minutes, after which they wipe dry and primer.

All preparatory work designed to facilitate subsequent do-it-yourself painting and get an updated coating.

Staining technique

Steps for renovating a bathroom at home include:

degreasing;
removal of existing coating;
cleaning of enamel residues;
drying the inside;
staining.

Be sure to close windows and doors before applying paint with your own hands. For application, you can use a flat brush with natural bristles or a spray gun.

The coloring composition should be diluted according to the instructions and applied to the surface of the bathroom. On the first layer you need to take half of the total volume of paint. After applying the first layer in the direction from the edge to the bottom and drying it, a second layer is made. The surface usually dries for about a day. At this time, it is still impossible to open windows and doors to avoid getting debris. In order for the coating to hold well and the paint to dry completely, you should refrain from bathing in the bathroom for a week.

To complete the transformation of an old bathtub, you can also change the existing legs for more modern ones. This is not an obligatory moment, but is decided individually by the owner.

When painting with acrylic, there are some nuances. It is permissible to make a container from under the hardener a watering can for paint. Application is advised to start, moving from the upper far sides in a circle to the near edge. It is necessary to control the uniformity of the filling. All parts of the bathroom should be completely covered. So that during pouring acrylic composition there were no problems with the bottom edge and the distribution of layers, the sieve should be removed from the plug. Instead, you need to put cardboard tube so that it rises 10 cm above the surface. So that after applying acrylic no defects are visible on the surface, when they are found, it is better to repair the defects with putty.

During the restoration process, there should not be objects nearby that interfere with painstaking work. It is better to put the faucet and shower in the washstand in advance so that moisture does not get into the bath.

Each manufacturer in the arsenal has moisture-resistant paints, specialized, for wet rooms. Water-dispersion paints resistant to constant exposure to water are widely used. They don't wear off quite long time, dry very quickly, do not have a strong smell.

Highly important feature paintwork materials for the bathroom - this is the ability to vapor repellency. Pay attention to the composition so that it contains fungicides and algicides. They prevent mold or mildew from spreading.

An important point: so that subsequently cracks do not form on the painted walls, and the surface has a spectacular and attractive appearance, apply colorants to completely dry walls. Otherwise, condensation will form under the coating, which will lead to deterioration decorative properties coloring.

If you apply decorative plaster, then it is better to focus on those types that use wax or water-dispersion varnish - they will provide protection from water drops and from a humid environment.

They are afraid of one thing - enamel damage. How to paint cast iron bath and what is the best thing to do if you damaged it internal coating? In this article you will find 3 possible options with step by step instructions and all their pluses and minuses, as well as a description of the "bath to bath" method.

When do you need to paint a cast iron bath?

Painting cast iron bath needed in two cases:

The enamel is mechanically damaged and cracks have gone along it.
The enamel turned yellow over time or due to improper operation (exposure to toxic household chemicals or other reagents), too active cleaning during washing.

Cast iron bath restoration options

A cast iron bath can be restored in 4 ways:

Paint.
Cover with epoxy enamel.
Cover with acrylic.
Bath to bath.

We will consider all these methods in more detail below.

Cast iron bath painting

The most logical method of restoration to the layman seems to be painting the bathroom.

Pros of this method:

the cheapest;
simple enough;
can be dyed in any color.

smell;
dents and chips on the surface of the bath will still be noticeable;
will last from 10 months to a couple of years if you use high-quality paint and apply it correctly.

Paint selection

Not any paint is suitable for restoring a bathroom by painting, as there will be constant contact with water, temperature changes and mechanical friction of the surface. You will need a special paint and you can find it among such manufacturers:

Dulux (Great Britain) is the leader among manufacturers coatings. For painting the bathtub, you should stop at "DuluxRealifeKitchen&Bathroom";
Tikkurila (Finland) is a manufacturer of paints known for its quality. For the bathroom, take the Luja staining system (primer + paint);
Jobi (Germany) – good quality on affordable price. For bathroom painting, opt for JobiWaschFest. This paint is moisture resistant and is intended for rooms with special conditions to which the bathroom can definitely be attributed.

You can, of course, paint with ordinary paint, but such a coating will last one to two weeks at most. It is unlikely that you are counting on such a short effect from the restoration, so it is better not to save on paint and buy high-quality one right away.

Required Tools

To paint a bath you will need:

roller or brush made of natural bristles 70-90 mm wide. If you prepare two, it will be even more convenient, because if the brush gets dirty during the painting process (especially in something greasy), then you cannot continue working with it;
drill with a grinding nozzle;
a paint knife and tweezers - for caring for a brush when bristles come out of it (this is quite normal for a new one);
acetone or thinner No. 646. Others do not use!;
cotton rags, coarse calico, flannel or microfiber cloths. The main thing is that there is no pile.

Coloring process

The staining process can be divided into 3 stages:

Preparatory work.
Direct staining.
Drying paint.

Preparation for staining

Preparatory work for the restoration of the bath is to remove dirt from the surface. This is best done with alkaline household chemicals. After using it, the bath should be rinsed well and wiped dry.

alkaline household chemicals burns the skin, so you should work with it in rubber gloves.

Next, degreasing is carried out with a special chemical composition. You can take a car. Alternatively, you can use common remedy for washing dishes Fairy, but it will need to be left for some time (20-30 minutes) on the surface of the bath, and then washed. The procedure will need to be repeated 2-3 times.

You can check whether you have degreased well with a jet of water. If when pouring water on the walls from the shower, you do not see drops or streaks, then the fight against fat on the surface can be considered complete.

This preparatory work does not end there. You need to remove the layer of enamel or paint that is currently covering your bathtub. This is done using an electric drill with a special grinding nozzle. It is allowed to remove the entire enamel or only the top layer - your choice.

Before applying paint to the surface, it must be cleaned of dust and dried. Drying can be done with a hair dryer or by waiting - the bath will dry itself in a few hours. After that, a primer is applied. It can be applied with a brush, roller or flexible spatula.

Painting a cast iron bath

The process of painting the bath should begin after the final drying of the primer. First you need to paint the sides. The paint is applied in a thick layer and gradually flows down the sides. The sides of the bathroom are painted in the same way, but taking into account the paint already on its surface. Try to make the layer after "draining" as even as possible. Painting the bottom of the bathroom consists in distributing the paint that has dripped from the top.

The whole process of staining will take you quite a lot of time and effort, so start it at a time when you have the greatest efficiency.

You can paint the bathroom with paint using a roller - it will be faster and more convenient.

After painting the bathroom, it is necessary to close it for 10-12 hours, and preferably for a day. This is necessary to prevent dust from entering the painted and still wet surface. The process of final drying of the paint takes 2-5 days. It is highly undesirable to use the bathroom until this moment.

Bathtub restoration with epoxy enamel

Most old way restoration of cast-iron bathtubs is the application of new enamel. It has been widely used for over 20 years. The process of applying enamel is somewhat reminiscent of the painting we examined, but the composition is completely different. There are only 2 categories of compositions: professional and for self-restoration.

Professional Lineups epoxy enamel more liquid. They are applied in several layers, so the process is quite long and laborious. Do-it-yourself formulations are thicker and easier to work with.

Bath enamel, which is sold in aerosol cans, is easy to apply, but it will last a maximum of a year.

Advantages of bathtub restoration with epoxy enamel:

a fairly cheap way;
no need to dismantle the bathroom;
suitable not only for cast iron, but also for steel baths.

The disadvantages of this method:

dries for a long time (up to a week);
long and laborious process;
bad smell;
the coating is very sensitive to shock;
the service life of a new enamel rarely exceeds 5 years;
does not cover dents and chips;
even if everything is in order with the enamel and you have not damaged it in any way, after a few years it will turn yellow.

Enamel bath restoration tools

To restore a bathtub with epoxy enamel, you will need:

spray gun or roller if used professional enamel, or a flute brush, if the enamel is for self-application;
a paint knife and tweezers will be required to carefully remove the brush hairs that have come out;

enameling process

The process of applying enamel to the surface of the bathroom can be divided into the following stages:

Preparatory work.
Direct application of enamel.
Drying.

Preparatory work

The preparatory work is the same as when painting with bathroom paint, so we will not repeat them. You can read above.

Enamel application

Enamel before application should be prepared according to the instructions on the package. You do not need to immediately mix the entire composition, do it in batches, as it starts to set quite quickly (40-45 minutes), and applying in 2 layers takes quite a long time.

If you apply professional staff then you can use the spray gun. But for home application, it is still better to choose special mixtures that are thicker and suitable for application with a regular flute brush.

To apply enamel to the surface of the bath, moisten the brush with plenty of water and draw a vertical strip from the bottom to the edge. After that, rub the enamel on the sides as hard as you can. The next strip should be drawn side by side so that its “rubbing” is enough to reach the already treated area, and by repeated rubbing you cover about half of the previous strip. So, with an overlap, the first layer is applied. Wait 15-20 minutes and apply the next one.

The second layer is applied from the same place as the first. The direction of application must exactly match the first layer. Only in this way the coating will turn out beautiful and uniform.

How to remove streaks and sagging of enamel during application?

During the application of enamel on the walls of the bathroom, streaks and sagging of the material often form. Their appearance should be controlled. Usually they become noticeable 10-15 minutes after application, so keep an eye on the areas covered while working.

To remove streaks, it is necessary to make a brush stroke without material up to the place of smearing. Swells that form at the edges drain holes must be removed after the enamel has hardened. For this, a painting or mounting knife is used.

When is the bath ready for use?

After applying the enamel, it is necessary to close the bathroom for 3-7 days, until the new coating is completely dry. The longer you pause before the first use, the less likely the enamel will peel off.

Bathtub restoration with acrylic

One of the most modern ways to restore the enamel of the bath - restoration with acrylic. On sale you can find it under the name "Stakril".

Advantages of the method:

at correct application and careful operation, such a coating can last you 10 years or more;
a professional performs such work in 2-3 hours. You will need more time, but the process itself is easier than with enamel;
attractive appearance- after application and drying, you will see a smooth glossy finish;
no unpleasant odor.

Disadvantages of the method:

if in some place the acrylic layer is scratched to the bottom, then it will very quickly begin to collapse and lag behind the surface;
the cost is higher than with enamel coating;
drying takes 2-3 days.

Acrylic Bath Restoration Tools

To restore a bathtub with acrylic you will need:

flute brush or roller;
flexible spatula;
a paint knife and tweezers for carefully removing brush hairs that have come out;
drill with a grinding nozzle.

acrylic application process

The process of applying acrylic can be divided into 3 stages:

Preparatory work.
Direct application of acrylic.
Drying acrylic.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work is similar to the methods described above. Read more about this in the section on painting with paint.

Enamel application

Acrylic is more liquid than homemade enamel, so it is most convenient to apply it using the pouring method in a tapering spiral from the edges of the tub to the drain. Be very careful! Unfilled fragments can be filled with material using a flexible spatula. With its help, the edges of the bath and its bottom are leveled.

If during the application process bubbles appeared that did not burst themselves, then they must be pierced gently with a brush.

The second method of applying acrylic is similar to painting. For application, a brush or roller is used.

When is the bath ready for use?

After applying acrylic, it is necessary to close the bathroom for 2-3 days so that dust and other dirt do not get on the surface before drying.

Bath to bath restoration

The “bath-to-bath” restoration method consists in installing a new acrylic liner inside the old cast-iron bath, which completely repeats its shape.

Advantages of the method:

perfectly even coverage;
durable acrylic;
service life - about 15 years;
no unpleasant odor;
can be used already on the first day after installation;
the surface will not turn yellow.

Disadvantages of the method:

high price. Especially if your bath custom sizes and will need individual production liner;
impossible to do on your own;
the mounting foam with which the insert is attached can move and then cracks will appear;
possible detachment of the liner and the appearance of an unpleasant musty smell due to the constant formation of condensate between the liner and the bath;
it will not be possible to make repeated restoration or repair;
during installation, you will have to dismantle part wall covering at the edge of the tub.

To clean the bath at the preparation stage, do not use compounds with chlorine.
It is better to paint the bath with paint and enamel in the warm season, so that it is possible to ventilate the apartment or house.
Before applying paint, primer, enamel or acrylic, remove the cuffs and seal the hole with masking tape.
During the painting process, do not touch the bristles of the brush with your hands. From any fat, the paint departs faster in the future. Better stock up on a few brushes for work.
In no case do not touch the bath with your hands while applying paint, enamel or acrylic!
After the restoration of the bath with enamel or acrylic, it is necessary to replace the cuffs and gaskets, as the drain holes will become narrower, and the walls of the bathroom will become thicker.
To make your acrylic bath last longer, apply 2 coats of material. Then it will be more difficult to scratch through it.
Acrylic liner can only be installed in high-quality cast-iron bathtubs. It is not suitable for bathtubs made of "light cast iron" with thin walls.

Whether it is worth restoring the bath and how exactly to do it - the owner of the bathroom and the plumbing item decides. Of course, no restoration lasts forever, but if there is no money to buy a new one, then take hygiene procedures If you want comfort, then you should definitely do it!

Cast iron enameled bathtub is much more reliable and durable than analogues. Soviet bathtubs have served faithfully for decades, but these products lose their visual appeal over time - the coating turns yellow, rust smudges appear. Buying a new cast iron bath is a costly and troublesome business. To make the bathroom interior aesthetic by returning plumbing equipment former attractiveness, bath painting is practiced, which you can do with your own hands.

Benefits of staining

Choosing an enamel

All materials that are used for the restoration of bathtubs can be divided into two main groups:

materials based on epoxy resins;
liquid acrylic.

Epoxy enamel – two-component composition, which is a mixture of compound and hardener. The choice of a particular product depends on the size of your budget. If you prefer expensive quality material you will get additional benefits - good enamel Easy to apply, glides on smoothly and dries quickly. In this category of coatings, we recommend paying attention to the Finnish manufacturer TIKKURILA. Epoxin or Epovin materials will cost you an order of magnitude cheaper, but such a coating will dry longer - up to four days.

liquid acrylic It costs more but is easier to work with. Such material retains fluidity longer and is applied easily. However, it will be more difficult to prepare the mixture - you need to strictly observe the proportions and mix the composition thoroughly. Acrylic is less toxic than epoxy materials is another plus. Among the manufacturers we can note such trade marks like Ecovanna and Stakryl.

Separately, I want to say about the choice of color of enamel. If you want to receive light shade, and initially the bath was rather dark, then it will not be possible to cope with this task at a time. It is necessary to carry out the entire complex of work twice or thrice, starting with surface preparation and ending with the drying of the enamel.

Painting a bathtub with liquid acrylic is easier than paint

What do you need to work?

Enamel - epoxy or acrylic.
Grinding fixture.
Brush - better from natural pile, always new, at least 7 cm wide.
Means of protection - rubber gloves, respirator.
Cleaning products are alkaline and acid based.
Foam sponge, rags, household hair dryer.

Preparatory work

Immediately, we note that the restoration of the bath is best done in the warm season. After all, not only the bathroom, but the whole apartment should be well ventilated, and opening all the windows in the cold is not entirely rational. Take everything out of the room washing machine cover with foil, also protect taps and hoses.

Let's start painting

Please note that only a portion needs to be cooked first. coloring composition, as ready mix thickens quickly. We apply enamel with a brush on the sides of the bath, then - in the form vertical stripes from the bottom to the brim.

We smear the strips with horizontal movements, thus covering the entire surface of the sanitary ware.

After the completion of the first layer of enamel, we immediately begin to apply the second layer. After 10-15 minutes, check the surface for smudges. Drops are smeared with vertical movements. You need to work carefully and quickly until the enamel has hardened.

Particular care must be taken to coat the bottom and areas around the drain holes.

After the coating has completely dried, we cultivate the bath - cut off the enamel along the edges and inside the drain holes. We mount the strapping in place, rinse the bath and wipe it with a rag.

Instructions for the preparation of the composition and may be different for individual manufacturers and products. We advise you to carefully study the information on the packaging.

The refurbished bathroom looks just as good as new. You get an aesthetic element of the bathroom interior and postpone the purchase of a new one plumbing device for many decades.

In the next article, read about the choice and fastening - which is better plastic or ceramic?

The cast-iron bath is durable and stable, does not make noise when taking in water, has low heat transfer and lasts a long time. But her traditional enamel coating“Lives” much less (no more than 10 years) than cast iron, from which the bath is actually made.

Factory enamel coating requires very high temperatures, in which the enamel powder sprayed onto the inner surface of the bath is sintered with a cast-iron base, when reheated, it melts, forming a smooth glossy bowl enamel.

However, now released special paints, and even kits that allow you to update the coating of the cast-iron bath yourself. And even add a “zest” by choosing a spectacular color or applying a pattern to outside baths (or airbrushing - on the inside).

Wealth of choice

The bath during operation is not only exposed to water, but also heats up (usually up to 50 ° C), and so that the newly painted bath does not peel off quickly, special paints are needed.

Most often, a multicomponent composition, where the parts mixed immediately before application enter into chemical reaction and form a strong homogeneous coating.

That is why it is necessary to fully comply with the entire technology of preparing and applying paint, as well as the surface drying time recommended by the manufacturer in the attached instructions.

It is necessary to distinguish between the coating of the bath outside and inside, that is, the bath bowl itself.

The outer side of the bath is not exposed to intense moisture, and the old Soviet baths are most often rough. Therefore, you can use to cover it not quite expensive paint for the bowl itself, but cheaper alkyd enamel based on penolphthalein PF-115 or anticorrosive acrylic paint for water-based metal.

To process the bowl itself ( inner surface baths) are used different in composition and method of application.

Acrylic poured enamels independently spread over the surface with a layer of constant thickness (the method of pouring and spreading with a brush, and even for a beginner who restores the bath on his own, such a coating turns out to be quite uniform. The surface covered with liquid acrylic does not turn yellow and is resistant to mechanical damage.

However, when restoring with liquid acrylic, it is advisable to remove the drain structures.

The semi-finished product of enamel and the hardener, which are part of the kit, are kept at room temperature, and then mixed in the proportion indicated by the manufacturer (approximately 100:10), allowed to stand for ten minutes and used immediately, since the polymerization process has already started and the applied composition turns into a high-quality protective film on the surface.

The term of complete drying (depending on the paint) is 24-48 hours. The longer the acrylic drying time recommended by the manufacturer, the better the finished surface will be.

The service life declared by the manufacturer is 10-15 years.

Epoxy enamels give durable coating, but toxic (needed protective equipment: respirator, etc.) and require certain skills during application. This is the most economical option bathtub restorations, but these enamels are sensitive to impacts (possible chipping) and turn yellow over time.

It is optimal to paint in 4 layers. They are applied with a brush, roller or with a sprayer (the decorative solution for it will have to be diluted by 5-15% of the total volume).

One-component They are a pasty substance and, when applied, significantly smooth out surface irregularities and defects.
Two-component(base enamel and hardener) require thorough pre-mixing of the parts before starting work. The coating gains strength and completely hardens only after 5-7 days.
Three-component material (base enamel, hardener and catalyst). Requires removal of drain parts and careful preparation surfaces. Within 5 hours after application, it is important to ensure the inviolability of the bath (protect from dust, water, etc.). On the first day, avoid drafts, the total time for complete drying is 5 days. Often sold complete with accessories, tools and instructions.

How to choose?

Professionals will not only choose the material with which it is more convenient and familiar for them to work, but they will also give a guarantee for the work performed (from 0.5 to 3 years). However, if you decide to save money and have experience painting works When choosing enamel on your own, you need to pay attention to the details.

On the label of the paint for metal, there must be an indication that the paint is intended for the restoration of enameled bathtubs. The shelf life of enamels for the restoration of bathtubs is one year, it is better to choose the most recent paint according to the release date.
Epoxy enamel in cans is preferable to an aerosol can. Aerosol paint is more diluted, spreads easily over the surface, and when the solvent erodes, the layer is thinner, and therefore less durable. Therefore, aerosols, as a material that is quick-drying and convenient for covering hard-to-reach places, are more often used to eliminate small defects or as a top coat.
Often, complete with enamel and hardener, there are special tools for pre-treatment bath bowls. It is good if a set of tinting pastes is also attached, to obtain the shade desired by the consumer from the base white.
Surface defects are well filled with thick pasty epoxy paints and enamel "Epoksin-51"

Under all other coatings, the surface must be prepared in the most thorough way. especially under liquid acrylic (Stakryl).

Often the previous layer is completely removed with a special power tool, additional puttying of surface defects), since it does not close up chips and cracks, but it has the longest period of further operation (up to 15 years).

Applied by pouring with a thickness of 4-6mm. acrylic mixtures dry for about 24-48 hours.

The time of complete polymerization of the enamel layer is about a week, and it will serve for 6-8 years.
The viability of multicomponent mixtures prepared for work is 40-50 minutes, so you need to work quickly, and if necessary, dilute the composition for each layer separately.
Some liquid enamels, for example, "Reaflex-50" is most often used by professionals, since their application requires experience and gives very good result when the coating is at least 4 layers (each must dry before applying the next), and therefore the work can take up to a week.

Manufacturers and prices

Among foreign manufacturers paints for cast iron bathtubs are well known Finnish company Tikkurila (two-component system "Reaflex - 50", 1100-1200 rubles per 1 liter), English Dulux (acrylic three-component "DuluxRealifeKitchen & Bathroom", 900-2259 rubles per 1 liter is optimally suited) and the American Rust Oleum (two-component Specialty Tub & Tile Refinishing Kit with acrylic and epoxy resin from 1800 rubles for 1.18 liters).
Domestic manufacturers offer their own paints, but often they are made on the basis of imported components. The price depends on the hardening time of the material and its composition, but in general it is an order of magnitude lower than foreign analogues and amounts to 500-900 rubles per package.

Russian company "Random House" manufactures complete kits (where, in addition to paint and hardener, there are materials for chemical processing and mechanical preparation that precede application.

Set "Svetlana" its production will cost 750 rubles (a set of tinting pastes is also included in this price), and the Fantasy set based on colored enamel costs about 620 rubles.

Set "Renaissance" in addition to the dye itself, it will also contain the entire set necessary funds(0.8 kg. - 520-890 rubles.

Enamels "Epoksin" for 0.7 kg. will cost 450 rubles. Thixotropic enamels B-EP-5380 and B-EP-5380U (from 460 rubles per 1 kg., Packed in buckets of 5 kg.) Allow you to apply a coating of the desired thickness in two layers and use the painted one after a day.

liquid acrylic will cost 1400-2000 rubles per 1 kg. (options "STACRIL ECOLOR", "PlastAll").

aerosol dye cost leading domestic manufacturers (Kudo bath enamel) with a volume of 400 ml is from 200 rubles. up to 485 rubles. per unit, depending on the color and additives in the composition.

It is quite simple to paint a cast-iron bath on your own, the most difficult thing is to prepare it for painting and accurately follow all the nuances of the technology so that the new coating turns out to be of high quality and lasts a long time. Be sure to remove the old enamel, sand well and prime the surface.

The help of professionals in this case will not be superfluous. and then the period of wear of the new coating will depend on the composition of the water and the accuracy of the user when caring for the bathroom. And with the right paint will be at least 5 years.

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