Do-it-yourself decorative painting of walls with alkyd enamel. How to paint with water-based paint over oil paint and is it possible? Enamel wall painting

Moisture resistant paints

The traditional method of finishing a bathroom is to tile it. However, this technology is very expensive, and even requires certain skills, so often beginners are looking for how to paint the walls in the bathroom instead of tiles.

For finishing surfaces that are almost 100% likely to be in contact with moisture, you can use a variety of compositions:

Water-based paint with additives that protect it from erosion. By itself, water-based emulsion does not perceive moisture well, so areas where water gets with a guarantee should not be finished with such material. But the question of whether it is possible to paint walls with water-based pigments that will not be in direct contact with moisture can be answered positively.
Oil paint is an option that is practically not used today, but earlier it was one of the main ones. Yes, it is characterized by acceptable moisture resistance, but at the same time it dries slowly, and with temperature changes in the room, it is almost guaranteed to begin to peel off from the base.

Alkyd enamel - probably best choice in situations where protection against wetting of the base is a priority. After polymerization, the enamel layer becomes practically airtight, and the wall acquires almost absolute moisture resistance. But if you need paint without , then here alkyd compounds will not work - even a few days after application, a kind of “aroma” will be felt.
When choosing which paint is better to paint the walls in bathrooms, experts most often prefer acrylic (latex) pigments. Basically, the best way it’s really hard to find: acrylic and acrylic-latex complex have good hiding power and good adhesion to any surface, they are non-toxic and can be easily applied to walls. The moisture resistance of acrylic is quite acceptable: if you do not rub the wall with a sponge with detergent and timely remove wet spots, then the finish will last more than one year.

Silicone wall paint in the bathroom is another very worthy solution. For silicone formulations characterized by increased moisture resistance, and if it were not for the price (it must be admitted - a lot), then I would safely recommend these pigments as a universal solution.

Washable covers - what are their advantages?

Tiling and painting walls in a room such as a bathroom general function- in addition to decorating, they also protect the bearing surfaces from moisture. But in some cases, simple protection is not enough: where water drops regularly, washable paint is needed.

Between moisture resistant and washable pigments, it is worth drawing a clear line:

Moisture resistant paint is called, which is capable of without change appearance and other physical and chemical parameters withstand long time indoors with high humidity. If water periodically gets on it, it's okay, but regular moistening will provoke a rapid degradation of the paint layer.

Unlike moisture-resistant paints, washable paints form a dense film on the base, which is not only not afraid of moisture, but also actively resists swelling, abrasion and chemical agents.
In other words, any washable composition is moisture resistant, but not any moisture resistant paint can be washed, especially regularly.

If we talk about choosing a pigment specifically for painting bathroom walls with my own hands, then I would recommend stopping at acrylic compositions with increased moisture resistance. Nominally, they are not washable, but at the same time they tolerate various impacts very well. More durable materials will be needed in exceptional cases - for example, when painting a room with an installed open-type shower.

Painting technology

Surface preparation

In this section, I will tell you how to paint the walls in the bathroom with your own hands, providing the decorative layer with a sufficient margin of safety and durability. The main difficulty lies in the preparation of surfaces, which is why I will pay maximum attention to it.

Many are interested in whether it is possible to paint the walls over old paint. There is no consensus on this matter among the masters, but from my point of view, such a decision is an unjustified risk.

Even if today it seems that the old finishing layer is holding up well and is not going to peel off, then who will guarantee that it will not react with a primer or paint and will not fall off in just two to three months.

That is why, first of all, we need to figure out how to remove paint from the walls. I usually go like this:

To begin with, I perform mechanical cleaning - I take a spatula and use it to clean everything that is peeled off. I act quite intensively, but carefully: it is desirable not to damage plaster layer, since defects will then have to be leveled with putty.
As a rule, with a spatula it is never possible to remove all the paint, and you have to decide how to peel off the residue. Here comes to the rescue building hair dryer: I heat a layer of material, wait until it begins to soften and remove it with the same spatula.
If not, then there is another answer to the question of how to remove paint from the walls in the bathroom: chemical washes! I buy a bottle of the product, apply it to the painted area, wait for the components to react - and then remove the partially dissolved mass with little or no effort.

Finally, if you plan to cover the bathroom with drywall or complete re-plastering, then deciding how to tear off the paint , you can not be delicate: we take a grinder with a brushing nozzle, turn it on and clean off everything that is on the walls, including putty and part of the plaster.

There will be a lot of dust and debris, so we wear goggles and a respirator.

To begin with, a rough leveling of the walls is performed - either plastering or finishing with moisture-resistant drywall. At this stage, I try to get perfectly flat planes with a minimum number of defects..
After the plaster has dried, I putty with a moisture-resistant compound. Also putty need to process the seams between gypsum boards and places for attaching the skin to the frame.

The dried putty must be sanded using abrasive meshes. First, I rub the surface with a large abrasive, and then I “finish” the planes with a fine-grained finish sandpaper. The less irregularities there are on the plane, the better the painted wall will look.

During grinding, it forms a large number of plaster dust. When mixed with paint, it degrades its properties, so I prefer to vacuum the walls for the best result.

Preparation for painting ends with a primer. For work I use moisture resistant acrylic composition I apply at least two coats. In order for the acrylic to polymerize, I pause at least 2-3 hours between approaches (the instructions for the primer will tell you the exact time).

Finally, we need to think about paint protection for all other surfaces. To do this, cover the floor with newspapers or plastic wrap, and glue the ceiling around the perimeter masking tape. It is also worth covering the pipes and plumbing with polyethylene or a dense cloth: no matter how carefully we work, the drops will still scatter.

If our design project involves the use of two or more colors, then the boundaries between them should also be marked with masking tape. By the way, this is quite rational decision and from a purely practical point of view: the lower part of the walls is painted with a washable pigment of a darker shade, and the upper part is simply a moisture-resistant light paint.

We paint the walls

To paint the walls in the bathroom, we will need:

a roller with a telescopic handle (the so-called fishing rod);
a few brushes different shapes for painting in hard-to-reach places;
paint tray;
gloves;
respirator;
protective glasses;
scarf on the head;
shelving or goats - for high rooms;
rags and solvent to remove paint drips.

Coloring begins with the preparation of the pigment:

We open the container with paint, and, if this has not been done before, add color to it. Thoroughly mix the tinting liquid, achieving uniform coloring and matching the color with the reference sample.

You can take pre-tinted paints, but I prefer to work with a white base: there is nothing difficult in adding pigment, but the savings are quite tangible.

Simultaneously with tinting, we check the container for the presence of insoluble sediment. The thing is that acrylic, latex and other paints, if stored improperly, can delaminate, losing all their positive traits. You can get rid of sediment by filtering the paint through a special filter or just a nylon stocking.
Immediately before work, mix the pigment again to increase uniformity. Next, pour a small amount of the composition into the tray and get to work.
We take a roller, dip it into the paint and roll it several times over the corrugated area of the tray to distribute the pigment over the pile.

If we did not succeed in sanding the walls with high quality, and the defects are visible even to the naked eye, then the first layer can be applied with a brush. The consumption will be more, but more thick layer will hide some of the imperfections.

First, we paint over the corners and joints of the walls, and then we begin to gradually process the planes, regularly adding paint to the roller.
We leave the first layer to dry, and after it dries, we repeat the coloring. We carefully rub the pigment over the surface, trying not to leave streaks, but we also avoid non-painting.

Usually, two coats of paint are enough to achieve the desired result. If a light composition with low hiding power is used, then sometimes three or four layers have to be applied to mask the base.

Room drying

To inflicted decorative material did not begin to fall off the base in the first weeks, you need to provide him optimal conditions polymerization:

First, and most importantly, ventilation.. The humidity level in the bathroom is usually higher than in the rest of the apartment, because in such an environment the pigment will dry for a very long time. You can speed up the process by providing effective removal humid air natural or forced.

Further - the absence of drafts. If we fail to meet this requirement, then the polymerization will be uneven, and stress zones will appear in the paint film, which will sooner or later lead to the formation of cracks.
Finally, a constant sufficient temperature is also important. In the bathroom you need to provide temperature regime at the level of +20..+250C with minimal differences - then there will be no peeling or peeling of the paint layer.

Conclusion

Painting the walls in the bathroom is not such a simple undertaking. However, there are chances of success, and considerable ones: just follow my advice, as well as the recommendations given in the video in this article.

It seems to me that this information will be quite enough to achieve a decent result, but if questions arise, feel free to crush them in the comments: I hope I can be useful!

There are several ways to paint walls, and one of them is the spray method. As practice shows, the technology of painting walls using spraying is the simplest, and the result is more accurate. And from a financial point of view, this method of painting walls is the most economical. Regardless of whether you use enamel or water-based emulsion, it is important to observe the right technology process, and then the result will be at the highest level.

How and what paint to paint the walls, you will receive recommendations on this page.

Painting walls will protect their surfaces from impact and damage and give them an aesthetic appearance. Before painting the walls with paint, it should be borne in mind that work should only begin on perfectly flat surfaces, otherwise the paint will rather emphasize than hide even small flaws.

What paint to paint the walls: enamels

Usually (unless otherwise provided by the manufacturer), wall painting technology is a sequential application of 2-3 layers: base, intermediate and surface. They can be performed various types colors. The composition for the foundation is well absorbed and also performs the functions of a primer and protection against moisture. Surface paints are more flexible and give the walls a desired shade and texture.

If you do not know what paint is better to paint the walls, then for internal works feel free to use various enamels (oil, alkyd, epoxy, nitrocellulose, etc.). Basically, all these types of paints are toxic (it is advisable to work with them in a well-ventilated area, in a respirator), flammable and less durable, but still continue to be used, as they fit well and dry quickly.

In addition, they allow you to get walls of various textures: matte, rough, semi-matt, silky, semi-glossy, glossy. Semi-matte and matte surfaces most effectively hide unevenness, and paints with a glossy effect look better on perfectly smooth walls and, due to their high reflectivity, make the room brighter.

What paint is better to paint the walls: water emulsion

Absolutely flat surfaces(for example, a wall lined with drywall) it is recommended to paint with water-dispersion paints (water-based paints). Unlike most solvent-based formulations, water-dispersion ones form a vapor-permeable coating that “breathes”, as it were, which has a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the room. Most often they are used for painting walls, embossed wallpaper(wallpaper for painting) and ceilings in dry (bedrooms, living rooms, offices, etc.) and damp (bathrooms, etc.) rooms.

Most of all water-dispersion paints are compositions based on acrylic binders (acrylic paints). They retain color well, do not turn yellow, are resistant to washing, are easy to use and allow you to create elastic coatings that can “hide” cracks up to 0.5 mm wide.

Water-dispersion paints are produced, as a rule, white color. To obtain the desired shade, a special tinting composition (color) is added to the paint. Before use water-dispersion paint does not dilute with water. How to paint walls with water-based paint? A water-based emulsion is applied to the surface to be treated using a roller, brush or spray method (airbrush or spray gun).

How to properly paint walls

At correct execution work on the painted surface, joints should not be distinguishable drywall sheets. According to the requirements of SNiP 3.04.01-87 "Insulating and finishing coatings":" In the places where the surfaces painted in various colors, the curvature of the lines should not exceed 5 mm for simple painting, and 2 mm for improved painting (on 1 m of surface). In addition, the painted surfaces after drying must be uniform, without stripes, spots, smudges, splashes, abrasion (chalking). Translucence from the underlying layers of paint, peeling, unevenness, wrinkles, the presence of visible grains of paint, film clots, brush marks, roller and swab marks are not allowed. Local corrections that stand out against the general background (except for simple coloring) should not be noticeable at a distance of 3 m from the surface.

How to paint walls correctly to get a uniformly painted surface? To obtain such a coating, the paint is applied in three layers. Coloring with the first two layers is best done with a fur roller with long pile heavily dipped in paint. Thanks to this, the painted surface does not dry out too quickly, which makes it possible to make the layer more even. Finishing color is done paint roller with a pile of medium length. To wet the rollers with paint, it is desirable to use a flat metal box with longitudinal walls. A sieve (mesh) with meshes of 10-20 mm is installed in the box, along which a roller soaked in paint is passed to eliminate excess and evenly distribute the composition around the entire perimeter of the roller. You can purchase a special cuvette for paint. To eliminate excess and evenly distribute the paint, it has an inclined ribbed surface. During short breaks in work, the roller should be wrapped in polyethylene to prevent the paint from drying on its “fur coat”. The next layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

The advice for painting walls regarding compliance with a certain sequence is as follows: first paint the ceiling and ceiling plinths(moldings, cornices), and only then the walls. The paint is first laid in one direction and in a thicker layer, and then shaded in the other. Another recommendation for painting walls: shading is carried out in the direction of the light rays falling from the window. In the event that there are several windows in the room, then shade the paint along its length.

As you can see in the photo, the walls with a border (a strip 50-200 mm wide) are painted from the ceiling and cornice. Then it continues along the line marked with paint of a different color. Then the border is retracted and painted directly. The rest of the wall is finished last. At the bottom of the curb, you can draw a panel with a width of about 10 mm. The choice of colors, of course, depends on taste and imagination, but it is desirable that the colors of the border and panels are in harmony with the color of the walls.

Painting by spraying (spraying) is considered one of the fastest, most accurate and economical ways. It is suitable for finishing objects of almost any shape, including those that are difficult to paint with a brush or roller. By spraying it is convenient to paint flat surfaces - doors, walls, decorative screens, furniture - because this method allows you to get a perfectly smooth, thin layer of paint.

To cover small areas, it will be enough for you to purchase an air sprayer - an airbrush, which is a container equipped with a pumping and spraying system. More advanced and powerful are electric spray guns. They allow you to achieve high productivity and guarantee quality.

When painting the wall surface by spraying, the paint must be applied with quick, but smooth movements from side to side, in no case stopping and not concentrating the jet at one point. The paint used in this case is less thick than that intended for brush or roller application, so when sprayed too thick, droplets form quickly, flowing down and disturbing the uniformity of color.

Now that you know how to properly paint the walls, you can get to work.

Every second family in our country is constantly repairing their homes. Repair moves from the bathroom to the kitchen, from the kitchen to the balcony, then - in all rooms and again in a circle. Repair is delayed due to lack of funds for materials for the entire apartment / house at once and for hiring a professional repair team. So Finishing work are often done with their own hands, and the question of whether it is possible to paint with water-based paint over oil is asked by almost every family leading a “repair” lifestyle.

For specialists, this question is not worth it. professional finisher will clearly answer that all the old oil coating must be completely removed, will do this, re-prepare the surface for painting and apply a new one perfectly paint composition. But ... at the same time, he will ask for a tidy sum for the work. Homeowners, in search of more affordable and less labor-intensive options, puzzle themselves and puzzle manufacturers of paint and varnish products.

So is it possible to apply an aqueous emulsion to oil paint, and which one is better? And, nevertheless, the answer is: you can also use a water emulsion, but with certain conditions. First of all, it is worth considering the issue of the intensity of operation of the place that is to be painted with a water-based emulsion over oil paint, and then answer the question - can it be painted or not. If it's a ceiling or top part walls in the living room, you can, without hesitation, choose desired color and after a little pre-training paint with enamel.

If you plan to paint a cramped hallway with protruding corners with water-based paint over oil, then this idea will seem promising at first, but after a couple of weeks of operation it will become clear that this was a bad idea. Even with very high-quality preparation and compliance with all application rules, with frequent intense friction, water-based paint will quickly be erased from a smooth oil coating.

Condition 1. It is allowed to paint with water-based paint over previously applied oil paint, if the place of painting will not be subjected to intensive use.

Is there a faster way?

Yes, this homeopathic principle applies to the preparation of a colored oil base. Its essence lies in covering the old oil layer with a fresh layer of drying oil. For good adhesion of drying oil to paint, the old coating is thoroughly washed and degreased with any suitable composition, the simplest is warm water with soap. Drying oil is applied thin layer on the old cleaned coating, forming a rough, slightly sticky surface, well “accepting” any subsequent staining. It doesn't matter what paint the surface will be painted with later.

Drying oil treatment is more expensive in economic terms than simple priming, and less comfortable due to the stable strong odor, the duration of drying, but in the end gives a quality result.

Summing up, there are three ways to prepare a base painted with oil paint for subsequent coating with water-based paint:

priming (ordinary construction acrylic primer or special for old paint);
sanding/sanding followed by thorough dusting and priming;
applying a layer of drying oil on a previously cleaned surface.

Condition 2. It is possible to paint with water-based paint over oil if the preparation of the base is carried out in a quality manner.

Surface preparation

Carefully inspect the oil coating to be repainted. As a rule, this is the coloring of the late 80s or much earlier. In the 1990s, it was already widely used water-based coloring. With the help of a water-based emulsion, almost all surfaces were painted.

The surfaces painted with oil paint of those ancient years are distinguished by enviable durability, it is not so easy to “tear off” such a coating from a wall or other surface, if only together with plaster. Even "lethal" chemical solvents, at times, are powerless in the fight. With water emulsion, everything is much simpler. Here, primer manufacturers came to the rescue of homegrown finishers.

Coating oil paint with the simplest acrylic primer will create smooth surface slight roughness, allowing the coloring water-soluble composition to “catch” on a slippery surface.

More quality training surfaces can be obtained by pre-sanding with fine emery cloth. For this "procedure" it is better to use a grinder with grinding disc or a drill with a special nozzle.

Qualitatively grind large area is unlikely to be done manually. A big plus of this method is that at the same time unevenness, roughness and smudges of the old oil coating are removed. Minus - long and dusty. Sanding won't get rid of additional work on thorough cleaning and priming, but will significantly improve the adhesion of priming and coloring water-based compositions to old oil paint.

On the video: preparing the walls for painting.

How to paint

Painting a well-prepared surface is not difficult. It is carried out with brushes or a roller in two layers. It is important to observe the direction of movement of the brush relative to the incident light, so as not to leave dye streaks, and the paint lies evenly. The paint should be slightly thicker, especially if sanding has not been done, because the absorbency of the surface is still low. At liquid paint three layers are applied.

Also, three layers cannot be avoided if the surface was previously painted in dark color, and it needs to be made light. Better pick up qualitative composition with good covering properties.

Condition 3. Applying a good water-based paint of a slightly thicker consistency in several layers will help to hide the old layer of oil paint.

To cover old oil finish acrylic paint or enamel will need to meet the same conditions, but fewer final layers will be needed. Is it possible to paint with acrylic paint over oil paint at all and will it lie on the previously painted composition? This should not be done, since in this case good adhesion of materials cannot be expected.

And finally, little secret: lightly sand the dried surface painted with water-based paint with fine sandpaper, you will get a perfectly smooth flawless matte finish. And no one, even the most “cunning” master builder-finisher, would guess that under it there was a thick layer of crumpled gray-brown “Sovdepovskaya” paint.

How to prepare walls for painting (1 video)

If you think that painting takes a maximum of half an hour and the walls become like new, we have to disappoint you. Surface painting is a work that is not without nuances: the process can be delayed due to the wrong paint, roller or wrongly applied layer. Also important is the time of day at which you pick up the instrument. Training, of course The best way achieve success, but we recommend avoiding other people's mistakes - we tell you how.

Mistake #1: Painting Unprepared Walls

Minor defects, dust, grains of sand, bristles from the brush during the previous staining may be under the paint and adversely affect the result. Under a layer of paint, all the shortcomings will be visible - it remains either to put up with it, or to clean the wall and repaint it. And possible greasy spots will show through, no matter how many layers you cover the surface. Defects will be especially noticeable if you use glossy paint.

What to do: to avoid double work and unpleasant surprises, prepare the wall in advance. Take sandpaper or a special plaster tool for grinding and go over bumps and defects. After - brush off the dust with a brush or broom. Stains can be removed by wiping the wall with a damp cloth and soap.

Mistake #2: Ignoring the Primer

Do not use a primer before painting the walls? Don't be surprised if you end up with an unevenly painted wall or paint overrun. The fact is that the primer provides a lower hygroscopicity of the surface, which saves the means for painting. And also the base gives the "cohesion" of the surface with the paint, which improves the painting of the walls.

What to do: choose the appropriate primer for the walls. Apply it with a brush vertically in small stripes, and then horizontally - perpendicular to the first layer. After the base has dried, you can cover the surface with the first coat of paint.

Mistake #3: Wrongly thinned paint

The paint is too thick consistency or becomes so in the process of work. Then it must be diluted - this is an intuitive action. But with what to dilute - this is already a question that can ruin both the material and the whole work. For example, if water-dispersion paint is diluted with white spirit, it will cause the polymers to stick together. If you paint a wall with such a composition, the result will be of poor quality - disappointment is inevitable: the paint will lie unevenly, maybe even in lumps. If, on the contrary, oil paint diluted with water - it simply does not mix with the bulk.

What to do: read the composition on the paint can and select the product according to it with which you will dilute the product. Do not pour in too much water or thinner - it is better to add little by little, mixing the paint thoroughly.

Mistake number 4: painting without a test

Choosing a color is a rather complicated process, especially if the shade has to be combined with another tone or pattern. The unfortunate masterpiece will have to be repainted, and so the process can be repeated indefinitely. The same applies to the shade, which you have to "extract" with your own hands with the help of color.

What to do: add the coloring concentrate to the paint little by little, mixing the contents thoroughly. First, pour a small amount of paint into a small container and add a couple of drops of color - see what color you get. Get the tone you want, and then do the same in a larger bank if you like the result. To make sure the color is compatible with the overall decor of the room, try to paint - apply paint in an inconspicuous corner and wait for it to dry. If the result suits you - for the case.

Mistake #5: Choosing the wrong tool

Using the right brush or roller is just as important as choosing the right paint. And it's not a matter of taste. In order to evenly paint over the wall, you need to purchase a couple of rollers and a brush. First you will “roll up” the surface, and with a brush you will paint corners and hard-to-reach places.

What to do: for the first coat of paint, it is better to choose a roller with a long pile - 1-1.5 cm. It will pick up more paint, which will make it faster and easier to get a uniform color. For re-painting, a roller with a short pile - 6–7 mm is more suitable: it will help you use the paint more economically and definitely will not leave “streaks”. Bet on a brush with natural bristles - it will not leave lint on the surface.

Mistake number 6: applying paint "in different directions"

If you apply paint vertically, then horizontally, and then completely, as you like, in the hope that when it dries the wall will look decent - you are committing serious mistake. All strokes can show up, especially if you use a brush.

What to do: choose one painting option - vertical or horizontal - the paint will lie evenly, and the coloring will not look ridiculous due to chaotic strokes. When painting in several layers, you can alternate methods, for example, paint the first layer vertically, the second horizontally.

Mistake number 7: applying paint in one layer

When applying paint in one layer, the coloring may turn out to be uneven, and if you want to change the color of the surface in a drastic way, you definitely won’t be able to finish the job quickly. Even if you change light shade on a darker one, the first color will show through.

What to do: For an intense shade, apply two, and preferably three layers. The first will allow you to distribute the paint over the surface; the second and third - it is better to shade it, even out the color and fill in small irregularities.

Mistake number 8: staining on wet paint

Of course, I want to finish painting faster and enjoy the result. Therefore, we often do not think about the consequences of painting on a “raw” wall. As a result, the wet layer begins to come off, stick to the brush or roller. Oil paint, in turn, can go bubbles - all work will have to be started again. True, after waiting for the paint to dry, and sanding the places with defects.

What to do: be patient. While the paint dries, do something else. Pay attention to the instructions on the can, which indicate how long the paint takes to dry completely. If it's a single base emulsion, it won't be long before you can get back to work.

Mistake #9: Not enough paint

This can become a serious problem. Firstly, because during a trip to the store, the already applied layer may dry out (after drying, the joint between fresh and already applied paint will be noticeable). Secondly, it is difficult to choose the right shade if you added color to the paint yourself.

What to do: the easiest option is to take more. In extreme cases, an unopened jar can be returned to the store or left “just in case” - touch up places where the paint will peel off over time. On paint cans they always write what area the volume is designed for - pay attention to the numbers. Keep in mind that if you paint the surface in two layers, the area will double.

Mistake #10: Wrong Timing for Painting

Applying paint at bright sunlight is fraught with the fact that the composition will dry too quickly - even before you distribute it evenly. Also, the paint may start to foam or peel off. And if you paint by the light of an electric light bulb, all the errors will be barely distinguishable.

What to do: the best option for painting the surface is during the daytime, without direct sunlight falling through the window. It is better to paint the south side in the morning or in the evening, when the sun does not shine so brightly.

The design and decor of the walls are important in the interior of any living space. And rightly so, because the walls occupy the largest surface in the house. Do-it-yourself wall painting is one of the most economical and simple ways their finishes. Textured painting surfaces of walls and ceilings allows you to get interesting options room design.

Textured wall painting: technique and rules for applying paint

Thanks to the development of the industry modern paints and enamels are significantly different from their predecessors. Market paintwork materials so rich and represents such a wide price range that everyone can choose for himself the most suitable option.

One of the market segments of paints and varnishes is alkyd enamels. They are matte and glossy. Matte is more popular among professionals, as it allows you to hide surface irregularities, and also have a wide variety of color and texture solutions.

Achieving textured walls is very easy. For amplification decorative effect apply special techniques paint application and all kinds of accessories. The most suitable tools for working with alkyd enamels are:

rollers,
brushes,
spatulas,
sponges,
cloth and cotton swabs.

There are several rules and techniques for this coloring:

First, the walls need to be primed. This procedure will help level the surface, and reduce the adhesion (absorption) of the applied paint.
Then the first coat of paint is applied using a roller.
Without waiting for drying, a drawing is made with a brush with synthetic bristles. It can be various lines and zigzags in directions that your imagination will tell you.
After the first layer has completely dried, the next one is applied with a roller, and the lines of your drawing with a brush. Re-painting the walls will help the textured pattern appear more voluminously.

Thanks to such simple tricks, you will achieve a three-dimensional pattern on the wall.

The undoubted leader among alkyd paints are latex enamels. These enamels are polymeric binders based on water dispersion. Due to their composition, they are ecologically impeccable, have high vapor permeability and do not emit toxic compounds.

The latter circumstance allows them to be used in the most various premises, up to painting the walls in nurseries and kitchens. High quality have compositions in which the acrylic dispersion serves as the basis. Such paints are suitable for coloring different surfaces:

primed concrete,
tree,
metal,
drywall.

Drying time is no more than one and a half hours. All collections have a wide color range. You can handle all the painting work yourself. This, firstly, allows you to reduce the material costs of repairs, and secondly, an unlimited flight of fancy will give the design of your home its uniqueness. Dare!

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